Brennan’s (Stamford) – Disappointing Burgers

Posted on April 2, 2013 by jfoodeats

I really wanted to enjoy Brennan’s, something about a local haunt that supposedly serves great burgers. Unfortunately my tally or the four bacon cheeseburgers was…three overcooked, one raw and only one with bacon. There was a certain looseness and tenderness to the texture of the meat that indicated that the burgers were hand formed on-site. Nice crust on burgers I really enjoyed the flavor of the sirloin meat with its nice, rich, deep flavor did not deliver the juiciness I was expecting, omitted bacon from both burgers. The onion rings were crunchy and the interiors were soft and moist with a good onion flavor. The waffle fries were also crispy while still moist on the inside.

Overall, it could be much better if the grillmaster would just deliver as ordered

EOS (Stamford) – Delicious Greek Cuisine

Posted on March 10, 2013 by jfoodeats

EOS, the Greek goddess of the dawn, signifies the beginning of a new day. EOS Greek Cuisine, an upscale Greek restaurant in Stamford owned by the Glekas family, recently introduced its new menu and invited CTbites (along with several other bloggers for what we nicknamed “Bloggers’ Row”) for a tasting of several of these items. All of the dishes are based on family recipes with slight modifications to modernize the dishes while maintaining their Greek roots.

The tasting included three MEZEDES (Small Plates), a SALATE (Salad), and three KYRIA PIATAS (Entrées).

My favorite Mezede was the “Feta Saganaki” that featured a thick slice of feta cheese crusted with sesame and poppy seeds, fried and topped with a drizzle of peppered honey. This is a delightful dish. The cheese is slightly melted and contrasts texturally with the crispy exterior of the sesame and poppy seeds. The honey adds a cooling and smooth texture. The addition of the peppered honey elevates the flavor of the dish significantly and is the key component to the overall flavor of the dish.

The “Mydia” included P.E.I. mussels that were steamed in white wine, ouzo, butter, garlic and finished with fresh herbs. The size of the Mussels range from small to medium, yet each are cooked to perfection. The accompanying broth is mild in flavor, slightly accented with just a touch of garlic, which does not overwhelm the delicate flavor of the mussels. This is a good start to the meal.

The “Veggie Moussaka” and the traditional meat Moussaka were, unfortunately, not as good as the other appetizers. The traditional version includes layers of zucchini, eggplant, potatoes, beef, and topped with a béchamel cream, while EOS’ vegetarian version substitutes lentil and mushroom for the beef filling. I give kudos to EOS in developing a vegetarian alternative of this classic Greek dish, but the Béchamel is too dense and would benefit from a lighter and more airy rendition. Likewise the meat and the lentil/mushroom layers are under-seasoned.

Vibrant flavors were presented with the “Eos Sliders,” described on the menu as spiced ground lamb patties with caramelized onions and a roasted red pepper sauce, served on whole wheat buns. The lamb sliders were some of the best I have tasted. Contrary to the menu’s description, the lamb is surprisingly mild, the caramelized onions are soft and sweet, and the red pepper sauce adds yet another sweet component. The rustic flavor of the whole wheat buns is a perfect means to envelope these sliders. The EOS sliders are delicious.

The “Kypro Salata” with mixed greens, grilled zucchini, mushrooms, eggplant, red peppers, Haloumi cheese and balsamic vinaigrette was a pleasant surprise to this non-salad lover. This dish is elegant in its simplicity while simultaneously delighting the palate. The flavors of each of the ingredients are delicious and the combination of the sweet red peppers, the slight peppery flavor of the radicchio, the sour of the balsamic and the saltiness of the cheese create an absolutely perfect balance. This non-salad fan is completely sold on recommending this dish for the table to split.

The three entrées included two winners.

My favorite was the “Lahanodolmathes,” ground beef and rice stuffed cabbage leaves enveloped in a creamy lemon sauce. It tastes much better than it looks and the first bite will bring a smile to your face. The lemon sauce is creamy and flavorful with the perfect amount of lemon to complement the other ingredients. The cabbage is soft, with just a touch of resistance, and the dense meat and rice add another textural element to the dish.

The “Papia,” a char-grilled bone-in half duck, black cherry and red wine reduction with pine nut rice was delicious. The roasted thigh-leg portion is moist and tender with a deep flavor and the sauce is delicious and its sweetness is a perfect balance to the rich and fatty duck. Unfortunately, the rice is bland and would benefit from the addition of a sweet component to better complement the full flavors of the other ingredients. Both the Lahanodolmathes and the Papia are delicious and recommended.

The “Ksifias” (char-grilled swordfish kebab with lemon potatoes) was disappointing. The large cubes of swordfish were overcooked and under-seasoned and required a good splash of lemon to add flavor. The onion slices were extremely pungent and overpowered the other ingredients. I did not enjoy this dish.

Overall, the new menu at EOS Greek Cuisine has many dishes that are outsanding and a few that need some additional work. If you order correctly, you will feast on incredibly delicious dishes from EOS’s modern twists of great Greek family recipes.

Really Liked:

EOS Lamb Sliders
Kypro Salata
Lahanodolmathes – Stuffed Cabbage
Papia – Duck with Cherry Sauce

Liked:

Mydia – Mussels
Feta Saganaki – Feta cheese with Honey

Did Not Enjoy:

Veggie Moussaka
Moussaka
Ksifias – Swordfish

EOS Greek Cuisine

490 Summer Street – Stamford, CT 06901 – 203-569-6250

This review was originally published on http://www.ctbites.com at http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/3/3/eos-greek-cuisine-in-stamford-revamps-menu.html

Riko’s Pizza (Norwalk / Stamford) – Outstanding Pies

Posted on March 1, 2013 by jfoodeats

I consider myself very fortunate in my historical relationship with pizza. Born and raised in NJ where the local pizzeria created $1.60 pies (yes that is under two-dollars for the entire pie, not a slice), I graduated to the “Bar Pie” at Star Tavern and Pizzeria in East Orange, before leaving the Garden State in my late teens. While in College in D.C. I found Greek-style pizza and then graduate school in Chicago introduced me to two eye-opening events…the Giordano’s Stuffed Deep Dish pie and the Midwest propensity to cut their pies into little squares.

I hit the jackpot on my move back east with my marriage to a women from the New Haven suburbs and her presenting my all-time, favorite, best pizza…Sally’s in New Haven. Never did I appreciate the classical flavors and textures until then. I was fortunate to share a table with Flo shortly before her death and enjoyed both her pizza and her stories. One of my first assignments for www.ctbites.com four years ago was to give my opinions of the iconic Colony Pizza in Stamford. It was a classic full pan pizza with a thin crispy crust, basic toppings and their secret ingredient, hot oil. One bite and I understood the beauty of this creation. Take a little bit of this theory, add a little bit of that theory…delicious.

When I heard that a new kid in town was “duplicating” the Colony-experience I needed to test this theory. Riko’s Pizza originally opened in the same neighborhood as Colony and many claimed “foul.” But for me, it was less about the ownership of “The Recipe” and more about the product. Others agree, since Riko’s has expanded to a second location on Newfield and a third location on Main Street in Norwalk.

After a couple of Riko’s pies I am glad they have a location near my office as well as nearer the house. Both offer the same quality pizza…delicious. Those from the Norwalk and the Newfield locations are twin sons of different ovens. The pies are baked in high rimmed pans, reminiscent of the Chicago deep dish pan. The dough is stretched to the circumference and then topped a little sauce, and then you design the rest from almost 30 different toppings (Colony has twelve to choose from). I consistently stay basic with pepperoni, sausage and hot oil, hey if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

The thin crust was nicely crisped, not cracker and stilled maintained a degree of pliability. The sauce and cheese were delicious and the pepperoni and sausage were both excellent. Then the hot oil kicked in and this was an overall fantastic pie. Just make sure you have a ton of napkins since the pie is oily by itself and then adding the hot oil raises it to another level.

If you do not want to make the trip Colony, you will be just as happy with the pies at Rikos, just remember there is no seating so all of these pies are take-aways.

Hudson Grille – Cool Place; Burger Not

Posted on February 7, 2013 by jfoodeats

Hudson Grille is receiving some press so I decided to see what all the hub-bub was about, and after my burger today I still have the same question. Yes the place has a great location, yes the place is incredibly cool inside and yes the staff is extremely nice, but at the end of the day the food draws me; if the hamburger is any indication, there are too many other places around that do it better.

I ordered the HUDSON GRILL (sic) BURGER with Comte cheese, caramelized onion, bacon aioli, brioche roll and fries. This sounded like a tremendous combo. The requested doneness was medium rare.

As you can see from my photo the delivery is picture-perfect, nicely stacked, fries in a pretty neat cone and a little cup of ketchup. The cheese sat atop the meat and there was a modest amount of onions. The bacon aioli was missing.

The fries still had their skins and were piping hot which meant freshly cooked so a positive, and the salt was applied in the kitchen. They were good but there was something weird with the texture, very grainy on the interior. They were the best part of the meal and can only give them an “OK.”

Now onto the hamburger. The meat was pretty basic meat, nothing special. It was cooked to my requested medium rare and had a good char on the exterior. When I cut it in half, not one ounce of juice flowed out of the burger, not a good sign. One taste confirmed my fear, no juiciness; it was bland, not seasoned at all and dry.

The accompaniments were equal to the meat. The “caramelized” onions were not; probably raw twenty minutes earlier, they were crunchy, pungent and were basic grilled onions, why restaurants call grilled onions “caramelized” baffles me, please just call them grilled. The Comte cheese was also not as expected. It was lacking flavor and added nothing to the overall taste. Likewise the bun could have been fresher. I ate half of the burger and decided that it was just not worth the effort.

Maybe some of the other items are better, but I would not make a special effort to go to Hudson Grille for the Hudson Grill (sic) Burger.

Plan B (Stamford) – on to Plan C

Posted on January 28, 2013 by jfoodeats

I was pretty excited to try Plan B, a Connecticut based chain with six locations, the newest in Stamford, with the motto of 100% humanely raised and serving aged chuck that is ground on premises. The menu contains over 20 combinations of burgers, almost 50 varieties of bottled craft beers and tons of bourbon choices…does the B stand for burger, beer or bourbon? The space is ultra-cool with tungsten lights dangling from the tin ceiling over wooden booths and tables. There are two separate dining areas, a family-friendly area to one side and a bar with TVs to hang with buddies and watch the ballgame. Plan B had the makings for a total bonanza.

A woody pub-styled entree way greets you with three large blackboards displaying bourbon and beer specials plus the “burger of the day,” which on one occasion was a beef patty stuffed with mashed potatoes, bacon and cheese – I would need a lot of the other “B”s to order that burger. Half of the regular menu combinations focus on beef burgers while the other half includes lobster, salmon, portabella mushroom, chicken, pork or turkey as the main ingredient. The beef combo that caught this carnivore’s eye was the “Bacon Cheese” – American cheese, bacon, caramelized onions and garlic mayo… basic shoestring fries or a salad included or ten other sides are available for a surcharge. Surprisingly only two levels of doneness are offered, “Some Pink” or “No Pink,” but the server whispered that rare or well done was also available. A “rare Bacon Cheese” for me and keep it simple with some shoestrings.

Patty #1 arrived and the doneness was none of the above, the interior was totally raw and the fries were undercooked, still a bit crunchy on the inside. So I asked the server for a re-fire and I ordered “Some Pink” for Patty #2.

Patty #2 had a great char, some melted American cheese, a couple of slices of bacon and a mound of onions, accompanied by a fresh cone of fries. It looked much better…but looks can be deceiving. The meat was juicy but almost flavorless… not a rich beefy flavor but a watery wetness and the saltiness on the exterior was over the top. The grind was incredibly loose, too loose, and each bite caused a piece of the meat to fall out of the other side. And the companion ingredients, well…the bacon was incredibly overcooked, stiff and hard, maybe a leftover from the previous day, and packed an additional wallop of salt. The “caramelized” onions weren’t good at all…maybe boiled and quickly grilled for some crispiness, with very little oniony flavor. As much as I liked the flavor of the sweet and buttery bun it just didn’t hold together, it kept falling apart with the meat pieces. The fries were again undercooked, still a little hard on the interior. Overall it was a disappointing experience. Maybe it was just a bad day since it was Sunday lunch, so a second visit was in the cards.

Round B at Plan B was a little better. Patty #3 was again “Some Pink Bacon Cheese” but arrived beyond well-done. When the manager noticed, he apologized and swiped it from the table…so onto Patty #4, which was again overcooked, to medium-well. The taste of Patty #4 was disappointing – some of the bites were tasteless and watery while others whacked me in the forehead with overwhelming saltiness. I was now as done as the meat. There was some good news…the fries were very good, they were crispy on the exterior, moist on the inside and properly salted and the caramelized onions were delicious with a soft and buttery texture with good oniony flavor. The bacon was fresh and better prepared, but the saltiness level was déjà vu…overpowering and the melted American cheese just couldn’t compete with these other bold flavors. The bun again had difficulty staying together.

After two visits, as much as the space and the service were fantastic, I realize that I am not a fan of Plan B. Most importantly I didn’t like the lacking of beef flavor in the meat, the saltiness was tongue-tingling and the doneness inconsistencies were just too large…four burgers…one raw, one rare, one medium-well, and one beyond well-done. When they nail the fries and caramelized onions these are very good, but they need to upgrade the bun and bacon. There are lots of Plan As in front of this Plan B.

Preview of Dinosaur BBQ – Great Addition

Posted on December 8, 2012 by jfoodeats

“Twas the night before Christmas, and…

Sorry wrong post.

Well it was the night before the official opening of Dinosaur BBQ in Stamford and I was fortunate to have my name included the list for this “Friends and Family” gathering. So with 200+ of my closest BBQ lovers, I wandered through the “stations” of beef, pork, ribs, and sides to see if the Q was as good as everyone was telling me. And with few exceptions, the food at Dinosaur BBQ was outstanding. And the items that did not hit a “10” I would chalk up to pre-opening execution.

For a quick overview of the items that we sampled.

Meats:

Wings – As I serpentined through the maze, a server brought a small plate of wings, well actually one wing, with two sauces, BBQ and Buffalo. The rub had a nice kick to it, and dipping in either sauce was equally delicious. I am not a huge Wing Man, but I would definitely order some for the table. Add me to the wing convert group.

Brisket – Touchdown!! This won Best in Show for the night. The meat was perfectly smoked, and then they placed a few slices on a great roll. I added a touch of the spicy sauce on top to add to the already abundant flavors.

Pulled pork – The slab of pork sat on the steam-table as the crew removed the bark and then hand-pulled the meat. Then they formed a small mound, grabbed a bun and added a little sauce. Again the meat was perfectly smoked and was both succulent and delicious.

Ribs – Here is where the execution was not up to the standards of the other dishes. The slab the server cut my portion from had major problems. The bark was way too thick and the bones themselves were broken. It was next to impossible to eat, forget about picking up this portion. There was a nice dry rub and then a thin layer of sauce. The good news was the meat when you could get to it, was perfect. When I returned to snap the photos the other slabs looked perfect.

The Side dishes:

Macaroni salad with tuna – A cold version of the classic that brings back bad memories of growing up, But Dinosaur’s version was delicious; it had great flavor and offered a refreshing element to the spices that the meats carried.

Macaroni and cheese – This side was fantastic. It was creamy and full of flavor and to finish the portion they sprinkle a spicy and smoky dusting on top to increase the heat. The smooth and creamy cheese sauce and the spicy topping were delicious.

Fred Rice – OK I have to say, WHY? Why is a BBQ joint serving fried rice? But it was delicious, offered a totally different flavor profile than every other side and was full of flavor. Did it go with the BBQ, unfortunately I would not order this side on subsequent visits; it just was a confusing dish.

Cole Slaw – The cole slaw was very good, creamy and delicious and performed the task that cole slaw is supposed to perform with BBQ, add to but not distract from, the main course. The Dinaosaur BBQ did just that.

Corn bread – Like the cole slaw, not ups, no extras. It was right down the middle of I-95. It was a good was good, but not memorable

Service:

There was a ton of staff at the event, not sure how the servers will work out when there are tables and guests. They were all incredibly friendly, but will need additional training on the menu. With all of the beers offered they need to learn the basics and they could also use a little more training on the items that are offered. Darwin’s Theory will come into play and in a couple of weeks the staff should be fine.

Overall, I was very impressed with Dinosaur BBQ. It was not even officially open and it was already serving some of, if not the best, BBQ in the area. After years of Fairfield County being a BBQ Wasteland, we now have a bar that is high enough to be proud of.

Welcome to the neighborhood Dinosaur BBQ…I am glad you are here.

Cotto Wine Bar and Pizzeria – New Kid in Stamford

Posted on December 4, 2012 by jfoodeats

There’s a new kid in town, Stamford that is, and its name is Cotto Wine Bar and Pizzeria. Husband and wife Claudio and Silvy Ridolfi have teamed with Chef Kevin Kraklio to create a traditional Italian menu (with a few exceptions) that includes a wide variety of Tapas, entrée-sized dishes and pizzas. Located in the space that formerly housed Tappo, the trio first transformed the interior into a sleeker space, with a front-to-back Italian marble topped bar along the right wall, black-and-white photos adorning the left wall (many of Silvy’s mom when she was an actress pictured with Marcello Mastroianni, Brigitte Bardot and David Niven), a curved wood-planked ceiling and an enormous gas fired pizza oven in full view in the rear. Raised in Rome, Cotto represents Claudio and Silvy’s first restaurant in the United States, while Chef Kraklio takes the helm of the kitchen after attending the French Culinary Institute and working at restaurants throughout Italy.

After seeing the menu on-line, my curiosity got the better of me so I stopped for a quick lunch and I am incredibly glad that I did. I ordered the Rigatoni Bolognese and it was divine. The pasta was perfectly cooked to al dente and the beef and veal based sauce was rich, creamy, deep flavored, and was perfectly proportioned to the pasta. Other than a smattering of sautéed mushrooms, it was a traditional preparation with just a touch of cream and butter added at the end to highlight the flavors plus a sprinkling of crushed red pepper to add a little spice.

As I was speaking with the owners, they offered a thin-crust dessert pizza, made with focaccia dough and covered with Nutella, Rice Crispies and powdered sugar. I have always struggled with calling this combination a “pizza,” but regardless of the name the combination of the chocolaty sweetness, the nuttiness and the Rice Crispies was a great way to end the meal.

In addition, the restaurant currently offers 200 labels on its enormous wine list.

If my first meal is any indication of the food at Cotto Wine Bar and Pizzeria, it will be a go-to spot in Stamford. Stay tuned as CTbites revisits in a few weeks for a full review of this newest addition to Stamford.

Cotto Wine Bar and Pizzeria 51 Bank Street – Stamford, CT 06901 – 203.914.1400

http://cottowinebar.com/

The review was originally posted on December 4, 2012 on CTbites.com at http://www.ctbites.com/home/2012/12/4/cotto-wine-bar-and-pizzeria-opens-in-stamford.html

Bar Rosso (Stamford) – An Unfortunate Update

Posted on November 14, 2012 by jfoodeats

I have been wandering in and out of Bar Rosso since it opened, and wrote a few reviews for http://www.ctbites.com.

Unfortunately the last return visit indicated the wheels have fallen off at @Bar Rosso. The Bolognese, which I previously enjoyed, was not to my liking. It was overly sweet and the pasta is no longer a mild delight. The flavors and textures were just off

Then I tried a hamburger and similar to previous attempts my medium-rare order arrived well done. Totally ruined a good piece of meat. So I would also move this to the do not order category.

On a positive note the pizza dough is still excellent, but the previous pizza maker from Italy has moved on and the overall pizza is still good, but not as good as previously.

So unfortunately @BR is now not on my recommended list

Olio Restaurant – Hidden Gem in Stamford

Posted on September 10, 2012 by jfoodeats

Olio – [oh-lee-oh] (noun) – a dish of many different ingredients

Olio Restaurant, off the beaten path in the Springdale section of Stamford, represents the epitome of a “Hidden Gem.” Located in the space that formerly housed Bella Luna, Chef/Owner Steve Costanzo and his business partner Moira Hyland bring over 36 years of experience to this underserved neighborhood. After two months, the residents are viewing Olio as their local culinary answer to downtown Stamford;

Costanzo graduated from the New York Restaurant School and worked in many area restaurants including Baang, Long Ridge Tavern, and Quattro Pazzi (Executive Chef). Hyland is a graduate of the Chef’s Training Program at The Natural Gourmet Institute for Health and Culinary Arts. The duo brings their passion and energy to create an eclectic and inviting menu and environment to their dream restaurant. When I asked them what attracted them to this location, Hyland told me “When we first saw the location… we fell in love with the layout and the fact that the open kitchen made the space so inviting and intimate.”The fifty seat interior was completely redecorated and the result is an inviting space that is divided into two dining areas with marble topped tables separated by a long marble bar overlooking the kitchen. Exposed beams under the skylight add charm to the minimalist style of the space. The menu offers a diverse selection of pastas, meats, fish, and poultry with a strong Columbian influence from Costanzo’s wife, Mayte.

Costanzo’s talent was immediately apparent when I visited Olio one afternoon for lunch. The roasted and shredded pork Torta (Mexican variety) with avocado, Chipotle mayonnaise, roasted tomato and arugula, served on a Ciabatta roll was impressive. The slow roasted pork was delicious, moist, and flavorful and the peppery arugula and the sweet, roasted tomato perfectly complemented the pork. The mayonnaise brought just a touch of spiciness. This was my first taste of Costanzo’s culinary talent and the reason that I returned to Olio for the other dishes.

My favorite appetizer was the BBQ Spareribs. The ribs were first braised for almost two hours and when they emerged from the moist braising process, they were finished with the miso soy BBQ sauce that was comprised of raisins, star anise, and plum wine. The “tower” included five ribs that were fall off the bone tender, full of flavor and smothered in Costanzo’s sweet and succulent BBQ sauce (extra napkins required). The dish was garnished with sesame seeds and charred green onions.

Another delicious option was the Wild Mushroom Crostini. Costanzo’ recipe began with a duxelle of cremini and shitake mushrooms to which he added diced caramelized cippolini onions and roasted garlic. When assembled he melted a small amount of Taleggio cheese on top. Presented as a trio with the arugula and a touch of truffle oil, this dish presented great flavors and was a delightful way to begin the meal.

The Seared Sea Scallops served atop a smoked cauliflower fondue and complemented with sweet and sour golden raisins was another excellent choice. The two large scallops were perfectly seared and Costanzo added Sherry vinegar to offset the sweetness of the raisins. If, like me, you prefer a little more saltiness to your dish, be prepared to add just a little salt to the cauliflower fondant to bring out more of the cauliflower’s natural goodness.

Olio’s entrées feature house made pastas, fish, and several items that Costanzo slow roasts and braises.

The House-Made Ricotta Gnocchi, served with lobster and finished in a brandy cream sauce was my favorite entrée. The gnocchi were delicious, with a light, soft texture; the lobster was perfectly cooked and Costanzo added a few sweet grape tomatoes to bring the various flavors together. This gnocchi dish created a great combination of flavors with the creaminess of the sauce and the delicate texture and flavor of the lobster meat and grape tomatoes.

Another excellent choice was the Beef Short Ribs with truffle mashed potatoes that were served with an Ancho chili and tomato confit. The sauce exploded with flavors and the ribs were braised until they were fork tender while maintaining their integrity. The sauce’s flavor was enhanced by Costanzo’s braising stock which included plum tomatoes, veal stock, red wine, roasted red and Poblano pepper plus a touch of cinnamon. Overall this dish delivered outstanding flavors throughout.

Please save room for Costanzo and Hyland’ special dessert, the Cinnamon Sugar Dusted Donuts, served with a Nutella dipping sauce. The donuts were some of the moistest versions I have tasted and when I asked the chef the secret to this incredible texture, he reluctantly told me, “ricotta.” No longer a secret ingredient and no longer a secret dish, I expect that the donuts will become a staple at Olio with every-changing sauce accompaniments being offered in addition to the Nutella.

Other desserts were available to satisfy the sweet tooth. The bread pudding with a bourbon crème Anglaise sauce was a very good version, but I would have preferred a little more cinnamon and sauce and the warm almond fudge torte with Grand Marnier served with house-made vanilla bean ice cream and raspberries, was more a brownie in texture, but very tasty.

After a few months, Costanzo and Hyland are very pleased with the response from the guests and the neighborhood and they are excited about expanding the menu and developing a deeper relationship with all who enjoy their cuisine and hospitality. “We love the neighborhood and all the support we have received from the community.”

– Olio Restaurant, 934 Hope St., Stamford, CT, (203) 817-0303 –

http://www.oliostamford.com/

Napa & Co. – Geat Food in Stamford

Posted on August 1, 2012 by jfoodeats

Napa and Company in Stamford has another extraordinary chef, Chef Leonardo Marino, overseeing its award-winning kitchen. Chef Leo is slowly modifying the menu to showcase his commitment of using exceptional ingredients to highlight their natural flavors. Three weeks after assuming Napa’s Executive Chef position, CTbites sat with Chef Leo for this “Behind the Scenes,” review, discussed his passion for food and sampled several of his recently premiered dishes.

Chef Leo’s devotion to cooking started at an early age as he assisted his mother and aunt in the kitchen; they inspired him to pursue a culinary education. After attending the Culinary Institute of America, his philosophy of accentuating the natural flavors was further influenced in the kitchens of some of America’s greatest chefs. While working as the Lead Sous Chef for Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin, Ripert asked him to relocate to Washington DC to take the reins of Chef de Cuisine at Westend Bistro by Eric Ripert. Chef Leo returned to New York in 2009 and joined David Bouley at both Bouley and as the Chef of Bouley Upstairs. In 2010 he joined Jean George Vongerichten, first as the Executive Sous Chef at his flagship restaurant, Jean George, and subsequently as the Executive Sous Chef at The Mark Restaurant by Jean George. After working with all of these legendary chefs, Chef Leo commented, “My mother and my aunt are two of the best chefs,” but he quickly added, “…in addition to Eric and Jean George.”

The first dish was a delightful tomato gazpacho. Chef Leo’s version began with a mound of baby heirloom tomatoes, Marcona almonds, basil and sliced strawberries, all topped with a mini-grilled cheese. The soup, which was comprised of traditional cucumbers, red peppers with just a touch of diced Serrano chili to give the dish a little spiciness, was then slowly poured into the dish. The bright flavors of the tomatoes were perfectly accented by the cucumbers, red peppers and the Serrano chili; and the mini-grilled cheese was both a delicious and fun addition. I really enjoyed this dish as a light start to the meal for both the crisp combinations of flavors as well as its varying textures.

The second dish was a remarkable salad and my favorite of those that I tasted; heirloom tomatoes, burrata, grilled country bread, white balsamic gelee and green and purple basil. The tomato season started early this year and Chef Leo is taking full advantage of the delectable and diverse varieties that are currently available. No less than five different varieties of heirloom tomatoes were served. In addition, the imported burrata was one of the most delicious and creamy burratas that I have tasted. The white balsamic gelee brought a delightful and interesting flavor to the dish and it was refreshingly new to my palate. Lastly, the grilled bread brought a wonderful crunchy texture. This dish would work perfectly as a light lunch or a delicious start to a dinner.

The next dish was a fried, poached duck egg with crispy romaine lettuce, shaved broad beans, and surrounded by a drizzle of house-made green goddess dressing. Yes, green goddess dressing. Chef Leo explained his fond memories of the dressing and he thought it would perfectly balance the flavors of the romaine and beans. When the dish was presented, Chef Leo cut into the egg and the yolk gently oozed over the lettuce and created a luscious creaminess. He explained that he first poached the egg, then coated the poached egg with panko, and fried the coated egg to create a crispy exterior and a creamy interior. He also mentioned that he added a surprise ingredient to the egg, a touch of harissa to give just a hint of spiciness to the dish.

The third salad that I enjoyed was the red and white endive salad with Port Reyes blue cheese, balsamic vinaigrette and chives. This simple salad delivered fantastic flavors. The Port Reyes, with its medium pungency cheese complemented the slight bitterness of the endive, and when combined with the deep flavors of the balsamic vinaigrette created a delightful and perfectly balanced salad.

One of Chef Leo’s newly introduced entrées is a saba glazed duck breast with New Zealand spinach, Urban Oaks plums, baby turnips, candy stripe beets, strawberries and chanterelles. He first seared the meat, and then slowly braised the duck before searing for a second time to crisp the skin. The duck meat in Chef Leo’s version was cooked to medium, which he believes produces a more tender product. After tasting this dish I fully agree; the duck meat was tender and full of flavor. The accompaniments to the duck were delicious. The candy stripe beets, one of my favorite varieties, worked extraordinarily well with the sweetness of the plums and strawberries, while the baby turnips and the chanterelles added a wonderful, deep earthy flavor.

Chef Leo saved my favorite dish of the day for last; a pappardelle with wild mushrooms, Parmesan cheese and topped with a light mushroom foam. The pasta was perfectly cooked and then tossed with a sauce comprised of mushroom stock, crème fraiche and a touch of Parmesan Reggiano. The dish included a variety of wild mushrooms including chanterelles and shitakes (morels may be included in the near future). The dish was finished with a bit of foamed mushroom sauce. The earthiness of the mushrooms was delicious. The flavors of each of the numerous mushroom varieties brought a wonderful earthiness to this dish and the foam accentuated the deep mushroom flavors. I would highly recommend this dish to every mushroom enthusiast.

Chef Leo Marino is slowly placing his philosophy of fresh flavors onto the Napa menu. As he stated, “The soul of my mother is in all of my food.” After sampling several of his creations, I am extremely excited about the direction that Chef Leo will take the exquisite food at one of my favorite restaurants in Fairfield County.

Napa and Company – 75 Broad Street – Stamford, CT 06907 – 203-353-3319

www.napaandcompany.com

Originally reviewed by Jeff “jfood” Schlesinger on www.ctbites.com on July 29, 2012

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