Mama’s Boy Burger Makes My Top-10 List

Each year I develop a list for CTbites for the Best Restaurant Burgers in Fairfield County. The 2014 list added three additions from 2013. The first that requires a specific call out is Mama’s Boy. In addition to fantastic Low-country food and vibe, they are preparing one great burger.

CTB Mama's Burger 2014Mama’s Boy (SONO) – The “Mama’s Boy Burger” is the third newcomer to this year’s list. It combines local grass fed beef with house-smoked bacon, fried Vidalia onions and pickles, encased in a brioche bun. (The current burger now includes pimiento cheese). The 5-6 ounce patty was perfectly seasoned and the bacon strips added a significant amount of smokiness and a touch of saltiness. The fried onions (nestled under the burger) were soft and sweet and adding a few of the pickle slices added sour notes. Served with shoestring fries, this is another great item on their menu.

Mama's Boy Southern Table & Refuge on Urbanspoon

gingerbitz Opens in New Canaan

CTB 1“gingerbitz” is opening its doors in what owner Karen Zuckert calls the store’s “dress rehearsal” and I was invited for a sneak peek and sample several of Karen’s delicious creations.

CTB 13Described as a bakery and café, gingerbitz is a welcome addition to New Canaan, which has yearned for a local bakery for many years. The longtime dream of New Canaan residents Andrew and Karen Zuckert, gingerbitz represents years of dedication. Karen is well known within Fairfield County for her amazing gingerbread houses that have graced many mantles, as well as featured at numerous holiday festivals. When the opportunity arose to open a bakery in town that would “broader showcase Karen’s talents,” the couple jumped at the opportunity. They painstakingly and meticulously renovated the location, developed relationships with vendors to provide organic products and Andrew embarked on his search for the perfect coffee.

CTB 1 previewEntering the café, the cases are filled with cakes, pies, tarts and cookies; sitting atop these cases are packaged gingerbread delicacies, all decorated for various occasions. Shelves are filled with house-made chocolate covered pretzel, ginger bits, iced gingerbread cookies occasions and marshmallow treats. In the back is the fully exposed kitchen, with Karen and staff busily preparing the day’s delights, “I never want to hide, I take pride in my kitchen.”

CTB 10The welcoming aroma of the coffee and the faint buttery fragrance of breakfast beckons you to stay and enjoy the coffee and a pastry, pie or cake at one of several tables. Andrew researched numerous vendors and traveled the world before choosing Stumptown Coffee, out of Portland, Oregon. “They represented one of the most responsible coffee growers, are selective in the bean’s origin and offer several blends.” gingerbitz will initially offer two of these blends, the “Hairbender” and its bolder cousin, “Holler Mountain.” I sampled two cups of the Hairbender and it was also bold in its initial profile and was a perfect partner to Karen’s baked delights.

CTB 21At lunch, the menu expands to include the soups and sandwiches of Chef Ashley Boucaud. Chef Ashley hails from the Caribbean, graduated from NYU and then followed her culinary passion and graduated from Johnson and Wales University in Providence. The opening selections include cream of mushroom soup, chicken soup, plus a ham and brie or a roasted chicken sandwich. For a healthy drink, gingerbitz will serve freshly squeezed orange juice or ask Andrew for a glass of freshly juiced organic carrots, kale, or other organic vegetables. At lunchtime, gingerbitz will offer these juices as a smoothie or combine with the soft serve ice cream for a more decadent drink.

CTB 11In my first visit I sampled many of Karen’s creations. Overall these items were delectable and proved that high quality ingredients do not need an overabundance of sugar. Each of the items were mild in flavor and showcased the natural flavors of the ingredients, were not overly sweet and were reminiscent of those made at home.

CTB 19The Key Lime Pie was sublime. The thin graham cracker crust and key lime filling were topped with a dollop of whipped cream. The filling was smooth, creamy and presented subtle lime flavor, and the thin crust presented balanced and wonderful combination. The Carrot Cake included the traditional carrots, walnuts, and cinnamon, with a touch of nutmeg and topped with a cream cheese frosting. The balance of the cake and the rich frosting was delightful, again mild in flavor. The two-layer Chocolate Cake contained chocolate mousse between the layers and frosted with a chocolate buttercream. Reminiscent of the chocolate cakes of days past, this was an outstanding combination of a mildly chocolate cake, and a creamy chocolate frosting. For the fruit lovers, the Strawberry Crisp was incredible; delivered full strawberry flavor, complemented by the slightly sweet and the cinnamon streusel topping. CTB 4And don’t forget to take home a few cookies for the kids. The Apricot Thumbprint cookies were buttery and the apricot jam was delicious.

As gingerbitz slowly extends its hours and expands its offerings, I look forward to enjoying some of the best cakes, pies, tarts, and gingerbread creations from Karen Zuckert.

155 Elm Street, New Canaan, CT 06840
203-801-0281

The Nook (MSP) – What Happened to the Burgers?

Juicy Nookie with Fried Onions

Juicy Nookie with Fried Onions

It has been several years since my last visit to The Nook, in fact prior to the fire of 2010. But the Juicy that I enjoyed prior to the catastrophe was one of MSP’s best burgers, so I was excited when my navigation system told me I was but a few miles away after a late afternoon meeting.

The interior is reflective of the former configuration with a notable exception, the previously small kitchen near the front of the restaurant is now located in the rear with and open pass-through that allows the cooks to oversee the dining area.

Wings with Honey Stinger Sauce

Wings with Honey Stinger Sauce

I was also in the mood for some wings and The Nook has also received raves about theirs. They offer nine different sauces and the menu guides the guests to the level of heat. I chose a conservative approach and ordered the “Honey Stinger,” rated #3 on their 1-9 scale. Eight wing sections make up an order. The wings were perfectly cooked, crispy on the exterior while still moist on the inside. The sauce was more sweet than spicy so if you are looking for heat, move up the scale. It did leave a mild tingle to the lips. I would probably try #5 next time.

Tons of Cheese and Bread; Too Little Meat

Tons of Cheese and Bread; Too Little Meat

True to tradition, I ordered the Juicy Nookie Burger with fried onions and a basket of fries. When it arrived it looked delicious, but as I would learn over the next few minutes, looks can be deceiving. I grabbed a few fries. They were limp, cool and without any salt. This was not a good start. I cut the Juicy in half and the cheese gushed out from the middle, not an ooze, but an enormous gush. What was left was a thin shell of meat plus an enormous chasm. It was more cheese than meat. My first bite was incredibly disappointing. The once flavorful meat was flavorless, no seasoning at all. What happened to one of my favorite burgers? And the bun was even worse, crumbly, and flavorless; it did not even meet the low standards of bagged supermarket buns. This may be sacrilege, but this burger and fries were some of the worst I have ever eaten. What used to be one of my favorites is now on the DNR list. After two bites of the burger and a handful of fries, I pushed to the corner of the table, not worth the calories.

Needless to say that even with a pretty good set of wings, The Nook is a Juicy destination, and after this last experience, it will be a hard call to return.

Casper & Runyon's Nook on Urbanspoon

Sonora Grill (MSP) – The Good, The Bad and The Ugly Tacos

Located two miles east of 35W on East Lake, Sonora Grill was recently received accolades from several local publications, so I decided to give their tacos a go. With ample parking, both on the side and behind, plus on the side street it was an easy stop. The restaurant offers seating both inside and outside under its pergola.

The menu is broken into several sections, but I was there for a taco sampling so I ordered four, the pork, chicken, tongue and skirt steak. The menu described minor modification to the accompaniments to each of the meats, ranging from Chipotle salsa, to cabbage, to onions, plus a few with cheese. When they arrived the first noticeable trait was the amount of filling; Sonora Grill serves as much filling as any taco I have ever eaten. It challenges the guest to carefully wrap, lift and bite without losing any of the filling. The second, very positive item, was the onions, not raw or flash grilled onions, but beautifully caramelized, which was a fantastic addition.

Tongue Taco

Tongue Taco

The best of the four tacos was the “Tongue.” The menu mentioned it included Chipotle salsa, cilantro, onions and cabbage. I saw no salsa. When I asked the server, he mentioned that the salsa was mixed into the meat. Whether this was true or not, this combination was outstanding. It delivered great flavor and texture from the meat, which was soft and delightful. The cabbage added just a touch of crunch and the thinly sliced jalapeño pepper slices kicked the spice level without overwhelming the other flavors.

Pork Taco

Pork Taco

The other taco that was delicious was the “Pork Guajillo” served with melted Chihuahua cheese, onion and chipotle salsa. The pork was slowly braised to create a subtle texture, and in combination with the sweet caramelized onions and jalapeños create a great balance. Again I was told that the chipotle salsa was mixed into the meat. I really liked the addition of the caramelized onions that added an unusual sweet component to the tacos.

Chicken Taco

Chicken Taco

Unfortunately the other two were not as good as these two. The “Chicken Rioja” was served with Chihuahua cheese, Arbol aioli, and orange salsa. The chicken was first spiced with smoky seasoning and then cut into small dices before joining orange segments, thinly sliced jalapeño peppers, caramelized onions and some cilantro. The chicken was dried out, chewy and the seasoning overwhelmed the flavor. The aioli added a great creaminess (which was really required) and the oranges brightened and balanced the dish.

Skirt Steak Taco

Skirt Steak Taco

The “Beef Skirt Steak” was the polar opposite of the tongue, so much so that I left more than half on the plate. The menu stated it was accompanied with Chihuahua cheese, onions and chipotle salsa. Mine was also prepared with shredded cabbage, sliced jalapeños and re-fried beans. The meat was so vastly overcooked that it was impossible to chew. There was no opportunity to include the salsa in the meat and once again it was missing. The addition of the beans was an attempt to save this combination but it failed. This should never have left the kitchen.

Overall I liked two of the four tacos but the other two were badly executed. The amount of filling was substantial but I question whether the server was completely honest when he told me the chipotle salsa was mixed into the meat.

Sonora Grill on Urbanspoon

Kazu (SONO) – Inventive Sushi Rolls and Bento Boxes

photo 1Located at the entrance to downtown SONO on North Main St., Kazu offers a variety of Asian cuisine. Whether you are looking for creative sushi rolls, combination platters or a quick Bento Box lunch, Kazu has numerous choices. With tables that seat over 50 guests and a long sushi bar along the rear wall, there is plenty of seating.

I really liked the Pork Katsu Bento Box on my recent visit. It included two small dim sum, a mini-spring roll, three pieces of a California Roll, a mound of rice and a pork cutlet, a several course meal for $11. The first taste was the California Roll, it delivered fresh flavors and was a good start. Moving to the dim sum, I really liked these small niblet; filled with a delicious pork mixture. The spring roll added a little crunch and then I moved onto the Katsu. The pork patty was breaded with Panko, nicely fried, crispy on the exterior and just a touch of toughness to the meat. Dip in the hoisin sauce and it was a delightful, quick meal.

As an added benefit, i overlooked the numerous sushi chefs as they commenced the daily ritual of preparing the recently arrived fish. One meticulous carved a tuna to extract its magnificent center portion while others prepared mackerel and salmon. It was both a delicious meal and a bit of an education.

The only drawback was an aggressive server who though he deserved an $8 dollar tip on a $12 bill. I handed him a twenty and he asked if I wanted change. Just be on the lookout for this bad behavior.

Overall I really liked Kazu and it is a quick, varied lunch that can include Asian cuisine from sushi to katsu.

KAZU Japanese Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Li’s Brothers (Norwalk) – Not so Good

Some colleagues in my office recommended Li’s Brothers, so I decided to give it a try.

With a friend on his way to join me for a quick lunch in the office before a meeting, I ordered fried dumplings, General Tsao Chicken and Moo Shu Chicken. None were available under their Lunch Special menu, so each of these were full sized portions. First, the portions are very large, you can easily share a single order.

From the top:

Dumplings – there are six dumplings to an order. They were lightly crisped on one side. These were not very good. They were under-cooked, very doughy and had very little filling. It was similar to biting into raw dough.

Moo Shu Chicken – A large portion with several pancakes. I decided to first try the chicken without the pancake. One bite was enough to convince me that the Moo SHu Chicken was not to my liking either. There was an incredibly bitter flavor in the chicken, and the overall dish was not very good.

General Tsao Chicken – I did not have high hopes for this dish after tasting the other two. The dish was also a large portion, served atop a large mound of broccoli. It was primarily fried crust covered with an over-sweet sauce. The scant amount of chicken was intermingled with pieces of chicken bones and cartilage. This was the worst of the three dishes.

I was really hoping I would like Li’s, but I would be hard pressed to return.

Li's Brothers on Urbanspoon

Olio (Springdale) – Still Fantastic One Year Later

I’ve been pretty lucky with two visits to Olio Restaurant in Stamford over the last few weeks; each delivered some outstanding cuisine. The first was a quick stop for a burger to complete my update of the best burgers in Fairfield County and the second was a dinner visit a week later.

Co-Owner Moira Hyland met our party of four at the door, showed us the table and was the perfect hostess throughout the evening. The server approached and asked for water, soda or wine and explained the specials for the evening. Two of them sounded delicious and I ordered both. The appetizer was a baby greens and beet salad and the entrée was a pork chop with pickled ramps and succotash. Others at the table ordered a variety of salads and they all chose the gnocchi with Bolognese for their entrées. We let Chef / co-owner Steve Costanzo work his magic in the kitchen.

The salads arrived and they were all very generous in size. My salad included an array of locally grown baby greens tossed with walnut pieces, roasted beets, all dressed with a honey thyme mustard vinaigrette. The salad was perfectly dressed and focused on the wonderful, natural flavors of the greens. The beets were sweet and the walnuts added both an earthiness and a textural contrast with its crunchiness. I highly recommend this salad and the others at the table were as enthusiastic about their choices.

The entrées arrived and mine was a large single 10-ounce French cut pork chop nestled in a house-made succotash of fresh peas, corn, zucchini, red peppers with roasted plum tomatoes a little white wine, chicken stock and butter. The chop was topped with pickled ramps (they were pickled earlier in the day). The chop was perfectly cooked, moist on the interior with a great spice-rub finish. The sweetness of the fresh vegetables were a great complement to the pork and then the ramps kicked in to deliver tremendous flavor to the overall composition of the dish.

The Ricotta Gnocchi with Bolognese was a very generous portion. The gnocchi were delicious, with great texture and the Bolognese was one of the best I have tasted since my Bolognese search last year. It delivered rich flavors, a great balance of sauce to meat and was a delightful complement to the mild gnocchi.

As dessert approached, I highly recommended the donuts to the table and we also ordered a molten chocolate cake. The donuts were as I remembered, absolutely delicious and the molten chocolate cake, served with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and few berries. This was also an excellent dessert, a chocolate-y delight.

Olio remains one of the best hidden gems, and I might need to remove “hidden” as every table was taken and everyone had a smile on their faces and a huge thank you to Moira as they left.

Olio Restaurant on Urbanspoon

City Limits Diner (Stamford) – Not a NJ Diner

City Limits Diner in Stamford is a member of the Livanos Restaurant Group that includes one of my favorite NYC restaurants, Molyvos. I was first introduced to high-end Greek food at this restaurant and when City Limits arrived in Stamford, I heard that the food was excellent and the bakery was one of the best.

Looking at the menu there are numerous selections normally found at a diner. Breakfasts include eggs & omelets, pancakes, waffles, house-made granola and a few items that I would love to try including a chorizo and egg quesadilla and a crab cake benedict. Order an item from the bakery and have a great breakfast.

When lunch and dinner hits there are a couple of items that grab my attention including Kobe Beef Hot Dog on a pretzel roll with Jalapeño jack cheese, pickles and Chimichurri, a Turkey Cobb salad, and, from some e-mails I have received, a pretty good burger. A very eclectic group of entrées include a chicken loaf, fish & chips, crab cakes and ravioli. Coming from NJ I miss seeing the open faced roast beef or turkey sandwich, but I could probably get used to the change.

They are currently introducing a few weekly special evenings and my buddies over at www.ctbites.com post them every week on the “Weekly Nibble.” Take a look over there and check it out.

City Limits Diner on Urbanspoon

Olio “House Burger” (STM) – Excellent in Springdale

CTB BurgerIn my constant search for great burgers in Fairfield County for http://www.ctbites.com I found myself heading to Stamford to sample the new lunch menu at Olio that includes the Olio House Burger. And I am glad I did. Olio recently began serving lunch and it is slowly turning into the go-to location for many locals. The lunch menu includes a soup a few salads, and several sandwiches from chicken salad to steak, plus a pasta and sautéed shrimp. But I was there for the burger.

The Olio House burger is a unique combination of flavors and ingredients. It starts with a thick all-beef patty topped with Tasso ham, melted Manchego cheese, caramelized Cipollini onions, with a schmear of roasted tomato aioli, all encased in a Brioche roll from Eli’s. It is served with thick steak fries and a side of ketchup.

The burger is excellent. The meat was lightly formed with the grind of the meat still present. Although it was cooked a little past my requested medium rare, it was still this side of medium, a nice pink interior. The substitution of the Tasso ham for a traditional smoked bacon added a significant level of pepperiness and the mild Manchego cheese added a nice creaminess. The star of this combination was the caramelized Cipollini onions, they were fantastic, creamy, sweet, just a great addition. The roll added a good buttery complement.

The steak fries were perfectly prepared and finished with pepper and truffle salt. They were crispy on the exterior and moist and soft on the interior. The truffle salt added an earthy complement to the flavor. I am a purist on fries and would have been equally satisfied with just salt and a little pepper.

Overall the Olio House Burger is definitely a go-to burger and is one of the best in Stamford. Chef/Owner Steve Costanzo and his business partner Moira Hyland do an outstanding job at dinner and I anticipate that once word travels that lunch is available, the lunch crowd will equal the packed dinner crowd.

Steam Restaurant (G’wich) – Pan Everywhere Cuisine

With very little fanfare, Steam Restaurant opened on Greenwich Avenue serving a variety of Asian inspired dishes. Whether you are in the mood for Malaysian, Thai, Japanese, Chinese or one of a few other national dishes, Steam might have what you desire. The menu is divided into several sections including Dim Sum & Bao, Small Plates, Mix & Match, Ramen, Fried Rice and Noodles, Gourmet to Go, Vegetarian Selections and Soup.

There are few places that serve dim sum in Fairfield County, Steam has almost a dozen, ranging from Sichuan Dumplings to Roast Duck Buns. Small Plates and Salads include traditional Crispy Thai Spring Rolls, Thai Crab Cakes, Baby Back Ribs, Heirloom Tomato and Avocado salad, and a Grille Free Range Chicken Salad. The variety of dishes equals the variety of nationalities.

For larger dishes, choose a protein and a sauce and create your own dish from Ginger black Bean to Thai Curry, or move to one of three Ramen dishes with four different proteins, including baby back ribs. The Fried Rice and Noodle section offers four different rice and noodles from Fried or Brown Jasmine to Pad Thai with five different protein options. If you are looking for pre-determined combinations the Gourmet To Go section includes a Crispy Duck with Plum Sauce, a Clay Pot Sichuan Beef and a Thai Coconut Casserole. Vegetarian options are numerous and should satisfy those looking for a non-meat dish.

With most of the smaller plates priced under $10 and the larger ones under $20, Steam will be a cost effective option in Greenwich.

Steam on Urbanspoon