Nick & Toni’s (East Hampton) – Still One of the Best

Posted on August 20, 2015 by jfoodeats

The evening started with our traditional zucchini chips. These lightly coated, thinly sliced orbs were delicious. All they required was a squirt of lemon to elevate the natural goodness of the zucchini.

For my appetizer I ordered the beets with goat cheese and pistachios. The dish consisted of several quarters of various beets over greens with a slice of pistachio crusted goat cheese. The beets were perfectly roasted to maintain a terrific firmness but fell a little short on flavor, somewhat lacking that deep earthiness. Likewise the sliver of goat cheese was a little meager compared to the ampleness of the beet portion.

For my entree I opted for one of the night’s specials, tilefish served over pole beans with an heirloom tomato sauce. One word can describe this dish…spectacular. It was my introduction to tilefish and I am now a huge fan of this sweet, firm white fleshed fish. Two fillets sat atop a mound of mixed pole beans, all swimming in a pool of light tomato juice with segments of the tomatoes. The filets were exquisitely prepared with a crisp skin and succulent flesh. The tomatoes and juice added additional sweetness with a smidgen of capers contributing a little saltiness. The pole beans were crunchy and a perfect complement. This was a fantastic and light rendition.

To relax after the meal I ordered an espresso. It was one if the deepest flavored espresso I have ever enjoyed.

Service was exceptional, professional and spot on in every aspect. Even on a busy Saturday night in August we were not rushed and treated with incredible professionalism throughout the evening. Nick & Toni’s has been a centerpiece of Hampton’s dining for years and there is a reason for it. On this latest visit it proved how great a restaurant can be.

Meet The New Culinary Team @ Vespa Restaurant in Westport

Posted on August 16, 2015 by jfoodeats

Vespa Restaurant recently introduced its new culinary team, Executive Chef David White and Pastry Chef Susanne Berne to create a vibrant menu to complement the relaxing décor and wonderful water view. The duo will collaborate in creating a menu for the full dining experience, from the first bite of Antipasti to the last bite of Dolci. In addition, the restaurant recently unveiled its lunch service, a new dessert menu and the commencement of “Apertivo Hour” from 4-6PM, offering half price beer, wine, $8 select cocktails and a small plates menu.

Chef David joins Vespa from The Inn at Pound Ridge, where he was the Chef de Cuisine. Prior to working with Chef Jean-Georges, he sharpened his skills in Europe before returning to the US to further refine his talents with award-winning Andrew Masciangelo at Savona. Chef Berne’s passion for the culinary arts was sparked by a pastry course in college before receiving her Grande Diploma in Pastry Arts in 1999. She subsequently won back-to-back ACF Florida Pastry Challenges in 2003 & 2005.

CTbites recently visited Vespa to sample a variety of the new culinary team’s Italian-inspired creations.

The highlight of the meal was the Spicy Lumache (pictured above). The house-made, snail-shell shaped lumache was perfect for Vespa’s chunky and robust heirloom tomato sauce, which included broccoli rabe, large chunks of spicy sausage, charred fennel, and sprinkled with sourdough breadcrumbs. The heirloom tomato sauce delivered a touch of spiciness from the addition of Calabrian chilies and included chunks of spicy sausage, with additional heat from a smidgen of red pepper flakes. The broccoli rabe was soft and void of all its inherent bitterness, and the fennel added a wonderful earthiness. This was an outstanding preparation and one of my favorite pasta combinations in a long time.

We sampled three dishes from the “Secondi” section, the best was the Short Rib Sandwich (seen above). A toasted, buttery brioche was filled with two good-sized pieces of short rib, a slice of lettuce and a mound of slaw served along with shoe-string fries. The meat was braised low and slow for over two hours, and was soft, delicious and incredibly flavorful. The slaw was creamy and delivered a surprise, a nice little kick from the inclusion of Calabrian chili and the brioche was a great choice for its butteriness. This was one of the most incredible sandwiches I have eaten in a long time.

The Crab Cake was excellent. Two large crab-laden patties were crispy on the exterior and soft and moist on the interior. It was almost exclusively crab meat, very little filler, with a bit of crunch and sweetness from a few finely diced peppers. The two crab cakes were covered with shredded vegetables that were lightly pickled to balance the dish.

The last Secondi was the Poached Eggs. Two poached eggs were joined on the plate with grilled asparagus, pancetta and finished with a few slices of smoked salmon. The poached eggs were cooked well and the grilled asparagus were tasty but the salmon was less than appealing in both texture and taste, and the pancetta was overwhelmed by the sherry and was too sour.

We next moved to a trio of desserts currently on the menu and one that will join shortly. My favorite of the current choices was the Peanut Butter Crunch Cake. This cylinder shaped extravaganza began with a layer of banana cake, topped with layers of milk chocolate peanut butter crunch, and peanut butter cremeaux, all encased in a chocolate glaze and served with a scoop of chocolate gelato from Gelatissimo in New Canaan. The soft banana cake was moist and delicious with the middle layer was reminiscent of a Butterfinger candy bar with a crunchy-gooey texture. The chocolate glaze was outstanding and the gelato was a great complement to the other ingredients. The cake was joined with a few slices of bruléed bananas to further accentuate the banana cake. This dessert delivered a balance of one of my favorite combinations…banana, chocolate and peanuts.

The Pistachio Opera Cake presented a completely different profile. Three layers of pistachio sponge cake were intermingled with a layer of pistachio meringue and a layer of chocolate ganache, finished with a pistachio cream. It was presented alongside sour cherry jam and a scoop of chocolate gelato. The meringue presented a textural contrast to the soft cake and the sour cherry jam was a great addition to balance the other delightful ingredients.

The last of the current desserts was a plate of Family style Zeppoles paired with chocolate, caramel and a white Sangria sauces. The warm ricotta donuts were crispy on the exterior and soft and moist on the interior. Although deep fried, these were virtually oil-free to the taste, but they were a bit bland. They were sprinkled with powdered sugar, which added a hint of sweetness before dipping into one of the sauces. The three sauces were all delicious and delivered the required sweetness.

Chef Berne saved the best for last with her Coconut Panna Cotta, a tribute to the Pina Colada. This delightfully refreshing dessert was served in a glass ramekin and began with a perfectly prepared coconut panna cotta, which was smooth and luxurious. The second layer was the Sangria gelée which added a wonderful sweet component with the inclusion of passion fruit and white peaches. The two layers were topped with chunks of spiced pineapple. This was a fantastic combinations of traditional tropical flavors that were outstanding.

Overall Vespa 2.0 has a wonderful cuisine to enjoy in the beautiful and low-key environment with a relaxing water view of Saugatuck River.

2A Post Road West – Westport, Connecticut.

(203) 557-9057

Really Liked

Spicy Lumache

Short Rib Sandwich

Peanut butter crunch cake

Coconut Panna Cotta

Liked

Crab Cake

Pistachio Opera Cake

Did Not Like

Poached Eggs

Zeppoles

Chef Tony Delicias – Not Bad Tacos

Posted on July 27, 2015 by jfoodeats

Located on Riverside Avenue in Norwalk just south of the Wendy’s on Route 123 and across from the cemetery (I kid you not), Chef Tony Delicias is a colorful truck offering tacos, burritos and other Mexican fare. When I approached the window on my first visit there were several people already enjoying their lunches and each assured me that the food at Chef Tony’s was delicious. I ordered three tacos, the steak, chicken and chorizo. Each included a double tortilla topped with grilled meat, onion, cilantro and the diner chooses from a few sauces on the counter. A few wedges of lime plus slices of radishes joined the tacos on the plate

I placed a small amount of the green sauce on each and returned to my car. The steak was my first choice and I was disappointed after the first bite. It was very bland, just small chunks of beef, griddled and placed on the tortillas. I did not taste any seasoning. The cilantro was mild and the green sauce added a good level of spiciness. The next taco I tried was the chicken and it was a twin to the beef, very bland. The last taco was the chorizo; fortunately this was different with a good level of spiciness from the chorizo

Something did not feel right. Tony was fastidious in the prep, after handling money he washed his hands, he used new gloves with each order, I just could not believe what I ate was indicative of the food, so I returned for a second visit. On visit number 2 I again ordered three tacos, a steak, a carnitas and chicken. It was a different experience

The tacos on the second visit were served nestled in a Styrofoam container with three lime wedges and a small side container of green sauce. The tacos contained the meat plus a small handful of onions and a fair amount of cilantro. There were no sauces on the counter and Tony included a small container of salsa verde with the order. After returning to the car I added a good squirt of lime and drizzled the salsa on each. The chicken was much better with a touch of seasoning and the lime, onion and salsa worked very well together, but the cilantro was somewhat bland. The next taco I sampled was the beef, which was also lightly seasoned and very good. The carnitas was the last I tried and was the best of the six tacos I tasted over the two visits. The pork was seasoned properly, grilled nicely and the meat maintained a good level of juiciness. Like the other two tacos, the balance of the onions, salsa and tortillas was very good.

Although somewhat inconsistent, the second visit to Chef Tony’s feels more indicative of the food and presents another choice for good tacos, albeit in a somewhat out-of-the-way location.

Flipside (Fairfield) – Disappointing Burger

Posted on July 14, 2015 by jfoodeats

The Best of the Gold Coast Awards were announced recently and one of the areas of personal interest was the winner in the Burger Category. When I saw that Flipside was this year’s winner I immediately placed this venue to the top of my must-try list. I visited a couple of years ago and it never made my “Best of…” list so I was curious if the burger was different from what I sampled.

Flipside is located on the Post Road slightly east of Brick Walk on the south side of the street. Parking is located in the lot behind Ring’s End. There is a long bar, indoor tables and booths plus seating outside for 40-45 guests. It was a beautiful evening so I decided the terrace would be a great way to enjoy a burger.

Burgers are very much front and center at Flipside. There are sixteen predetermined combinations or guests can mix and match from 9 “meats,” 27 different toppings and a variety of 12 sauces. “Meats” include beef, fried chicken, ahi tuna, turkey, salmon and that ever-present veggie burger. I would caution ordering some of the pre-determined offerings as you can save a little money if your order the same combination a la carte. Just check.

I ordered a 6-ounce beef patty (medium-rare) with bacon and American cheese. Fries are included and I decided to keep it simple with regular fries, versus substituting (for a small fee) with sweet potato fries or onion rings.

When the burger arrived I cut it in half and was a little disappointed that it was more raw-rare than medium-rare. The meat had a decent flavor but nothing outstanding. There was no char whatsoever on the exterior and the kitchen forgot to place any seasoning on the patty. The bacon was well cooked and delivered just a touch of saltiness. The cheese was generous and well melted. The bun was in the same category as the other ingredients, basic and it was not grilled, straight from the bag to the plate. The other item of note was the burger tasted as if it was cooked on the same griddle as the onions, there was a significant oniony flavor on the meat.

The shoestring fries were also basic. They were somewhat greasy and most of them were limp, plus the seasoning was extremely inconsistent.

Overall it was an OK burger in an area that has numerous burgers that I view as better options. With all of the votes that Flipside is serving the best burger around I had high hopes and was disappointied.

Harlan Social (Stamford) – #1 (Tie) on 2015 Best Burger List

Posted on July 14, 2015 by jfoodeats

As I mentioned in my blog on South End, it wasa tie in 2015 for the best burger in southwest CT. The “Harlan Burger” at Harlan Social includes a special blend of meats which Chef Steve Lewandowski elevates the flavors with his incredibly unique toppings. He first bastes the burger with a house-made “Japanese Worcestershire Sauce” and then adds his “Cheddar Ale Sauce,” comprised of four different varieties of cheese, mushroom stock and cream ale. And Chef Lewandowski does not stop there as he tops these items with a fantastic Bacon Onion Jam. The sweet, sour, salty, umami elements were all present. Finally, the burger is encased in a Portuguese Muffin from Boston (my favorite bun on the tour), which adds a sweet accent.

Served with some of the best fries in CT and you have a prefect meal.

South End (New Canaan) – #1 (Tie) on 2015 Best Burger List

Posted on July 14, 2015 by jfoodeats

2015 was a difficult year in choosing the number 1 burger in southwest CT and the coin flip did not help. In the end I decided that it was a tie between South End in New Canaan and Harlan Social in Stamford.

The “South End Burger” created by Chef Nick Martschenko starts with fantastic beef, topped with Benton bacon, American cheese, South End burger sauce and served on a poppy seed roll. The flavor of the meat is perfect, and Chef Martschenko chars the exterior while maintaining a medium rare interior that oozes tons of juicy goodness. The bacon is crisp and flavorful and complements the meat. A few slices of B&B pickles adorn the burger and add another delightful sour component and the melted American cheese encases the patty. The sauce was a chunky spiced ketchup-y delight, which adds another flavor level. The roll was light and allows the other bold flavors inside to shine. The fries are delicious, lightly salted with a dusting of parmesan cheese and is a great partner for the burger.

Revival (MSP) – Incredible Fried Chicken

Posted on July 2, 2015 by jfoodeats

Revival is located on the northeast corner of 43rd and Nicolet. When you enter the restaurant you are surrounded by vintage 1950s colors…oranges, browns and golds, with wallpaper adorned with large marigolds. The bar resides along the rear wall with a view of the pass from the kitchen with six metal backless stools. The remainder of the dining area includes tables with metal chairs and a long banquette under the front window that occupy the remainder of the dining area. Total seating is in the 40s, it is comfortable and the sound level allows for conversation.

Tucked behind the bar are three taps for beer (an additional two were not connected on the night I visited), and the menu offers an additional 17 beers in bottles and cans, wines by the glass, sweet tea, sparkling water, root beer and Mexican coke. The wine list is limited with a handful of whites ($28-$55), a few more reds ($30-$65) and half of the wine list comprised of sparkling wines ($30-$210).

I was glad I arrived early on a Tuesday evening since the place was already half full at 5:30 and by 6:00 all the table were occupied and there was only one bar seat unoccupied. I chose a seat at the bar so I could watch the food and have a chat with the bartender.

The menu is diverse (on line version very accurate) with appetizers (priced from $5 to $15) ranging from a simple farm greens salad, to fried chicken livers, to pickled pig’s feet, to a pimento cheese and meat plate or choose two pieces of fried chicken. Entrees include a larger plate of fried chicken, (offered several spice levels from regular to poultrygeist covered in a sauce made from ghost peppers), pork chops, shrimp and grits, and pork shoulder or opt for a burger, or a pulled pork or grilled cheese sandwich

I ordered a 2-piece fried chicken plate for my appetizer and the Revival Burger with bacon for my second course with a side of hushpuppies. The server brought two sauces, a sweet potato sauce with habanero which was very spicy and a North Carolina vinegar sauce that was a little sweet and delivered much less heat than the habaner

The two courses were delivered simultaneously and I decided to first eat the fried chicken. There was a leg and a portion of the breast. This was one of the best fried chickens I have eaten in a long time. It had an overly crispy crust and was still very moist on the interior. I asked the bartender about the preparation and he told me the chicken is first seasoned, then marinated in buttermilk for eight hours before being slightly floured and fried. As I watched the pass during my meal I would guess that half of the orders were fried chicken, after eating it I completely understood

I next moved to the burger. It consisted of two thin patties on a buttered and griddled bun with two thick strips of bacon, melted American cheese, mayo and a few slices of B+B pickles. The first bite was a shock, it was incredibly salty, the meat was incredibly salty and the bacon added additional saltiness. The server approached to check in and I told him…he immediately removed the plate to have the kitchen prepare another, and we decided to skip the bacon on number 2. The second burger was a different, and much more positive experience. The meat reminded me of the burgers I made as a youth, a good beefy flavor with the grind still evident, the exterior was charred and crispy and the meat was still very juicy. The kitchen was generous, maybe too generous with the mayo and cheese, it was a little difficult to contain all of the creaminess in each bite and it overpowered the meat, I would have preferred a little less mayo and almost scraped some from the bun. The B+B pickles were delicious and these are always welcome on my burgers. The hushpuppies were a little bland and delivered a touch of sweetness

Overall I highly, highly recommend the fried chicken. The burger needs a little work to balance the saltiness of the bacon with the beefiness of the patty and the kitchen should better balance the amount of mayo. The bartender and the other staff were exceptionally customer friendly and that went a long way to convert what could have been a disappointing night to a positive experience.

Match (SoNo) – #3 on 2015 Best Burger List

Posted on June 28, 2015 by jfoodeats

Once again Chef Matt Storch’s “Match Burger” takes one of the top spots in my annual review. Anyone on Chef Matt’s FB page sees his weekly Thursday posting announcing the Thursday Night Special Burger night with a photo of perfectly prepared burgers. The Match Burger delivers an incredible array of flavors and starts with a rich, grass fed short rib, chuck and brisket combination. After grilling the patty to create a crisp char and smokiness, the burger is dipped in a Bacon-Cheese Béchamel and then bacon bits are placed atop the cheese-dipped burger to add saltiness. The burger is finished wit a heaping of sweet & sour onions and encased in a sweet onion brioche, which added just a little more sweetness to the combination. The fries at Match were outstanding (maybe the best in the area), crunchy on the exterior, soft and moist on the interior and were the perfect complement to the burger.

Bailey’s Backyard (Ridgefield) – Best New 2015 Burger

Posted on June 20, 2015 by jfoodeats

My number 4 for 2015 was Bailey’s Backyard “Cheddar and Ale Burger.” It began with beef from a grass fed humanely raised steer that was mildly compressed and grilled. The meat was deep and rich in flavor and incredibly juicy. Chef Forrest Pasternack topped his creation with caramelized onions and a house-made cheddar and ale sauce that contained over 29 ingredients. The subtle spice in the blend to complement the cheddar cheese was za’atar, itself a combination of several spices. The burger was encased in a buttery brioche. The hand cut shoestring fries were crispy and perfectly salted.

Sugarcane Raw Bar & Grill (Miami) – Great Potential

Posted on June 19, 2015 by jfoodeats

I recently attended a conference in Miami and a few of us decided to sample the local fare on the last evening. A foodie friend suggested Sugarcane Raw Bar and Grill, it offered excellent food with a good vibe, not far from the hotel. After a five minute cab ride we entered the terrace and immediately agreed the vibe was very relaxed Miami and if the food was equal, this would be a great recommendation. The terrace was fully enclosed by foliage, offered long wooden tables and a full view of the evening sky with star-shaped Pythagoras solids lightly illuminating the space. The interior is slickly designed with a 20-foot wood beamed ceiling, an open kitchen along the rear wall, leather wrapped banquettes and white topped tables.

The server approached and asked for drink orders, and throughout the entire service was fully capable of answering each and every question about their specialty cocktails, explained each dish and throughout the evening was spot on in her attention to the table and her friendliness couple with professionalism. Many other restaurants would benefit from her attitude and training. We ordered cocktails and several dishes to share.

Two of the dishes were excellent and highly recommend each.

My favorite dish of the evening was the kimchee beef tartare with a quail egg and crispy potato strings. A large plate of crisped shoestring potatoes was intermingled with diced beef and chives, finished with a light dressing that included kimchee. The beef was delicious, full of flavor and the kimchee was a perfect addition to add a good level of spiciness. The shoestrings added a salty crunch and the quail egg a decadent creaminess.

The other recommended dish is the American Wagyu slider. Each was served topped with onions, a “Tonkatsu” sauce and a fried quail egg. The flavors and textures of this combination worked marvelously with the rich meat offset by the sweet sauce and the pungency of the onions. The quail egg added a lovely layer of creaminess and the bun added just a touch of nuttiness to this combination. I could have ordered and enjoyed a few more of these min-burgers.

The others were very good, but there was just something missing from each that

The shaved kale & gala apple salad toasted walnut vinaigrette was very good. The kale offered a richer flavor than those up north and the texture was a little tougher than I am used to. The vinaigrette was delicious, and the apples were a great complement, but the portion of the apples was much too sparse, I would have really enjoyed the dish with the addition of a larger portion of apples.

The “Five spice & honey spare ribs” were four smallish baby back ribs that were lathered in a sweet sauce and finished with a touch of coriander & chilies. The ribs were fall off the bone tender, but the sauce was a little too sweet and it felt like they were not paired but forced together. I really loved the idea of Sugarcane’s take on a traditional southern favorite of fried chicken and waffles with its “Duck & waffle.” A half-waffle was topped with a crispy duck leg confit and a fried duck egg, served with a mustard maple syrup. The duck was perfectly cooked, with one of the crunchiest skins I have ever tasted but it lacked any seasoning. The egg was slightly over-fried and the underside traded creaminess for crunchiness and, again, lacked any seasoning. The waffle was a basic recipe. The dish had all of the components, but lacked that something special to make it great.

I was disappointed in two of the dishes. The “Pan seared scallops” were served with crispy pork belly, calabaza purée, and a green mojo. The scallops were very over-cooked, rubbery and lacked any flavor and the pork belly was likewise borderline flavorless. Again the kitchen failed to add any seasoning to this dish. The “Spicy tuna” roll was basic, at best. It lacked that fresh, vibrant tuna flavor and there was little additional flavor from the rice.

Overall, Sugarcane is on the precipice of serving a full complement of great dishes. The chef has assembled great combinations. If the kitchen can deliver the chef’s vision with consistent quality and proper seasoning this can be one great restaurant.

#miami #sugarcane

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying

Nick & Toni’s (East Hampton) – Still One of the Best

Meet The New Culinary Team @ Vespa Restaurant in Westport

Chef Tony Delicias – Not Bad Tacos

Flipside (Fairfield) – Disappointing Burger

Harlan Social (Stamford) – #1 (Tie) on 2015 Best Burger List

South End (New Canaan) – #1 (Tie) on 2015 Best Burger List

Revival (MSP) – Incredible Fried Chicken

Match (SoNo) – #3 on 2015 Best Burger List

Bailey’s Backyard (Ridgefield) – Best New 2015 Burger

Sugarcane Raw Bar & Grill (Miami) – Great Potential