EOS (Stamford) – Delicious Greek Cuisine

Posted on March 10, 2013 by jfoodeats

EOS, the Greek goddess of the dawn, signifies the beginning of a new day. EOS Greek Cuisine, an upscale Greek restaurant in Stamford owned by the Glekas family, recently introduced its new menu and invited CTbites (along with several other bloggers for what we nicknamed “Bloggers’ Row”) for a tasting of several of these items. All of the dishes are based on family recipes with slight modifications to modernize the dishes while maintaining their Greek roots.

The tasting included three MEZEDES (Small Plates), a SALATE (Salad), and three KYRIA PIATAS (Entrées).

My favorite Mezede was the “Feta Saganaki” that featured a thick slice of feta cheese crusted with sesame and poppy seeds, fried and topped with a drizzle of peppered honey. This is a delightful dish. The cheese is slightly melted and contrasts texturally with the crispy exterior of the sesame and poppy seeds. The honey adds a cooling and smooth texture. The addition of the peppered honey elevates the flavor of the dish significantly and is the key component to the overall flavor of the dish.

The “Mydia” included P.E.I. mussels that were steamed in white wine, ouzo, butter, garlic and finished with fresh herbs. The size of the Mussels range from small to medium, yet each are cooked to perfection. The accompanying broth is mild in flavor, slightly accented with just a touch of garlic, which does not overwhelm the delicate flavor of the mussels. This is a good start to the meal.

The “Veggie Moussaka” and the traditional meat Moussaka were, unfortunately, not as good as the other appetizers. The traditional version includes layers of zucchini, eggplant, potatoes, beef, and topped with a béchamel cream, while EOS’ vegetarian version substitutes lentil and mushroom for the beef filling. I give kudos to EOS in developing a vegetarian alternative of this classic Greek dish, but the Béchamel is too dense and would benefit from a lighter and more airy rendition. Likewise the meat and the lentil/mushroom layers are under-seasoned.

Vibrant flavors were presented with the “Eos Sliders,” described on the menu as spiced ground lamb patties with caramelized onions and a roasted red pepper sauce, served on whole wheat buns. The lamb sliders were some of the best I have tasted. Contrary to the menu’s description, the lamb is surprisingly mild, the caramelized onions are soft and sweet, and the red pepper sauce adds yet another sweet component. The rustic flavor of the whole wheat buns is a perfect means to envelope these sliders. The EOS sliders are delicious.

The “Kypro Salata” with mixed greens, grilled zucchini, mushrooms, eggplant, red peppers, Haloumi cheese and balsamic vinaigrette was a pleasant surprise to this non-salad lover. This dish is elegant in its simplicity while simultaneously delighting the palate. The flavors of each of the ingredients are delicious and the combination of the sweet red peppers, the slight peppery flavor of the radicchio, the sour of the balsamic and the saltiness of the cheese create an absolutely perfect balance. This non-salad fan is completely sold on recommending this dish for the table to split.

The three entrées included two winners.

My favorite was the “Lahanodolmathes,” ground beef and rice stuffed cabbage leaves enveloped in a creamy lemon sauce. It tastes much better than it looks and the first bite will bring a smile to your face. The lemon sauce is creamy and flavorful with the perfect amount of lemon to complement the other ingredients. The cabbage is soft, with just a touch of resistance, and the dense meat and rice add another textural element to the dish.

The “Papia,” a char-grilled bone-in half duck, black cherry and red wine reduction with pine nut rice was delicious. The roasted thigh-leg portion is moist and tender with a deep flavor and the sauce is delicious and its sweetness is a perfect balance to the rich and fatty duck. Unfortunately, the rice is bland and would benefit from the addition of a sweet component to better complement the full flavors of the other ingredients. Both the Lahanodolmathes and the Papia are delicious and recommended.

The “Ksifias” (char-grilled swordfish kebab with lemon potatoes) was disappointing. The large cubes of swordfish were overcooked and under-seasoned and required a good splash of lemon to add flavor. The onion slices were extremely pungent and overpowered the other ingredients. I did not enjoy this dish.

Overall, the new menu at EOS Greek Cuisine has many dishes that are outsanding and a few that need some additional work. If you order correctly, you will feast on incredibly delicious dishes from EOS’s modern twists of great Greek family recipes.

Really Liked:

EOS Lamb Sliders
Kypro Salata
Lahanodolmathes – Stuffed Cabbage
Papia – Duck with Cherry Sauce

Liked:

Mydia – Mussels
Feta Saganaki – Feta cheese with Honey

Did Not Enjoy:

Veggie Moussaka
Moussaka
Ksifias – Swordfish

EOS Greek Cuisine

490 Summer Street – Stamford, CT 06901 – 203-569-6250

This review was originally published on http://www.ctbites.com at http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/3/3/eos-greek-cuisine-in-stamford-revamps-menu.html

Riko’s Pizza (Norwalk / Stamford) – Outstanding Pies

Posted on March 1, 2013 by jfoodeats

I consider myself very fortunate in my historical relationship with pizza. Born and raised in NJ where the local pizzeria created $1.60 pies (yes that is under two-dollars for the entire pie, not a slice), I graduated to the “Bar Pie” at Star Tavern and Pizzeria in East Orange, before leaving the Garden State in my late teens. While in College in D.C. I found Greek-style pizza and then graduate school in Chicago introduced me to two eye-opening events…the Giordano’s Stuffed Deep Dish pie and the Midwest propensity to cut their pies into little squares.

I hit the jackpot on my move back east with my marriage to a women from the New Haven suburbs and her presenting my all-time, favorite, best pizza…Sally’s in New Haven. Never did I appreciate the classical flavors and textures until then. I was fortunate to share a table with Flo shortly before her death and enjoyed both her pizza and her stories. One of my first assignments for www.ctbites.com four years ago was to give my opinions of the iconic Colony Pizza in Stamford. It was a classic full pan pizza with a thin crispy crust, basic toppings and their secret ingredient, hot oil. One bite and I understood the beauty of this creation. Take a little bit of this theory, add a little bit of that theory…delicious.

When I heard that a new kid in town was “duplicating” the Colony-experience I needed to test this theory. Riko’s Pizza originally opened in the same neighborhood as Colony and many claimed “foul.” But for me, it was less about the ownership of “The Recipe” and more about the product. Others agree, since Riko’s has expanded to a second location on Newfield and a third location on Main Street in Norwalk.

After a couple of Riko’s pies I am glad they have a location near my office as well as nearer the house. Both offer the same quality pizza…delicious. Those from the Norwalk and the Newfield locations are twin sons of different ovens. The pies are baked in high rimmed pans, reminiscent of the Chicago deep dish pan. The dough is stretched to the circumference and then topped a little sauce, and then you design the rest from almost 30 different toppings (Colony has twelve to choose from). I consistently stay basic with pepperoni, sausage and hot oil, hey if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

The thin crust was nicely crisped, not cracker and stilled maintained a degree of pliability. The sauce and cheese were delicious and the pepperoni and sausage were both excellent. Then the hot oil kicked in and this was an overall fantastic pie. Just make sure you have a ton of napkins since the pie is oily by itself and then adding the hot oil raises it to another level.

If you do not want to make the trip Colony, you will be just as happy with the pies at Rikos, just remember there is no seating so all of these pies are take-aways.

Butcher & The Boar (MSP) Approaches Perfection

Posted on February 21, 2013 by jfoodeats

The Butcher & the Boar has been on my must-try list for a few months and with only one dinner in Minneapolis for this visit I decided to pull the trigger and make a reservation. Coincidentally, the James Beard Foundation announced its 2013 nominees that day and the Butcher & the Boar was nominated for Best Restaurant. Call it Karma, call it divine intervention or call it pure dumb luck, I call it a sign from the culinary forces that I made the correct choice.

Driving through artic conditions of 5-degrees plus a stiff wind I was grateful when I arrived at 12th and Hennepin and saw valet parking on the side of the building, only accessible from 12th Street. Upon entering you are greeted by an enormous bar spanning the left wall, serving thirty beers on tap, a wide variety of wines plus an assortment of blended cocktails, with various cute names. There are a few tables to the left of the bar, sort of tucked away from the main action; some would say these are either the B-list tables or the quiet tables. I think these are a good choice for some quiet conversation. There is a single large table tucked into an alcove across from the bar on the way to the main dining area, which is large and open. The interior is very cool.

The menu is broken into appetizers and salads, in-house prepared meats, plus entrées of meats, poultry and seafood. A separate menu of sides completes the options.

I ordered the “Turkey Brunschweiger, Vidalia Onion Jam and Milk Stout Toast” for an appetizer, the “Double Cut Berkshire Pork Chop with Pineapple Rum Glaze, Macadamia Nut Salsa” as an entrée plus the “Skillet Cornbread.” All of these were recommended by the server, who was spot on in her knowledge and guided me through the menu and the sheer volume of food it represented, “these dishes are normally split” was her challenge.

The appetizer arrived quickly. I was first impressed with the small glass jar that contained the turkey liver mousse, there was a small layer of fat on top, a great way to preserve as well as deliver added flavor, the Vidalia onion jam was neatly placed on the plate and the milk stout toasts arrived in a small, rectangular bowl. A small spoon protruded from the Brunschweiger and my first taste informed me that the night would produce some special flavors. It had an incredibly deep flavor, liver on overdrive, absolutely delicious. Placing a small amount on the toast and then topped with just a touch of the onion jam created an extraordinary balance of flavors and textures. The smooth, richness of the mousse, the sweet jam and the slight bitterness of the toast perfectly complemented each other. Now the fun began as I played with various combinations. I found that placing the jam on the toast and then the jam gave a slightly different flavor profile and then placing the two toppings side-by-side implanted even a slightly different flavor profile. The one consistent feature was that each bite was fantastic.

When the pork chop arrived I sat in awe. This was the largest pork chop that has ever graced my plate. It was 3-4” in height, sitting proudly in the pineapple sauce, with the nut salsa perched on top. The size would rival any NY steak house. I carefully sliced the longer arced side so my first taste would contain both meat and just a touch of fat. The meat was incredibly moist, served medium, slightly pink throughout, and the texture was perfect. The first bite confirmed my thought from the appetizer; the flavors for the evening would be extraordinary. This was an incredible piece of meat, first brined, so the saltiness was evident, but smokiness was the primary flavor; and this was Berkshire pork, known for juiciness, fat content and fully capable of handling the long and slow cooking processes. The sweetness of the pineapple rum glace was a perfect complement to the salty-smokiness of the pork, Texas meets Hawaii. As much as the Macadamia nut salsa delivered great flavor contrast, the soft texture of the Macadamias was not to my liking, I would have preferred more crunchiness.

The skillet cornbread was nothing special; in fact mine was a little burnt on the bottom. The flavor was basic, there was no textural contrast (I prefer the inclusion of corn kernels) and the depth of flavor was not present. If not for the addition of butter, I would classify the cornbread as dry. With the other choices available I would recommend going in a different direction on the side.

Service was excellent. My server knew the menu, was willing to make recommendations, understood the size of the dishes and guided me to a more reasonable order. The one major drawback was the pacing. I am not sure if this was caused by my dining solo, but the appetizer arrived within minutes after the order was placed and the entrée arrived within one minute of my finishing the appetizer. I felt incredibly rushed. There was no time for relaxing, digesting or just contemplating. I prefer a 5-10 minute interlude as a single and 15 minutes as a couple or group. Hopefully this was the exception, not the rule.

Overall the two main components of the meal were outstanding. The appetizer was extraordinary and the pork and sauce were perfect, but given the salsa, cornbread and the pacing, there is still room for improvement.

Gingerman (Greenwich) – Disappointing Burger

Posted on February 21, 2013 by jfoodeats

I had high hopes when I entered the Gingerman for a quick burger. The menu was diverse and I thought they were spot on with many of the options. So as I sat in front of the fireplace in the rear room, I thought this might be another addition to my Power Rotation. Unfortunately the ingredients and execution did not meet these expectations.

I ordered the Gingerman Burger with bacon, American cheese and caramelized onions. This is served on an English muffin with fries. The kitchen prepared the burger perfectly to my requested medium rare. It looked like a great burger when it settled in front of me. My first bite of the meat was disappointing. It was totally unseasoned, with very little meaty flavor. The bacon was very good, crispy and freshly prepared and the onions were soft and medium flavor, very good but not great. The muffin lost the battle of the juice, it fell apart. This would be a positive if the meat flavor was deeper.

The fries were excellent. I really liked them. I am not sure of the potato’s variety, but the texture was dense, while soft from the deep fryer. They were also perfectly salted. The fries were the highlight of the visit.

Overall I was hoping for more from the Gingerman when I walked in and will not qualify as a finalist on my top ten over at http://www.ctbites.com

Bayless Genius at Frontera Grill (Chicago)

Posted on February 15, 2013 by jfoodeats

Frontera Grill is one of those places that you just have to experience and on my culinary Bucket List. Rick Bayless, the Owner / Chef is one of the greatest, if not the greatest, modern Mexican Chef and a perfectionist in every dish he creates, an icon to many. Frontera Grill, along with its slightly more formal sister Topolobampa, occupy 445 North Clark St and grabbing a table is not an easy task. Reservations are only accepted in Topolobampa and are snatched weeks in advance and they are not accepted, or extremely limited, at Frontera. Waits as a walk-in can exceed multiple hours (I was once told the wait would be 2½ hours as a single). When my meetings ended early, I thought this might be my lucky day so I gave it a shot. I arrived at 445PM, the temperature was 5 degrees with the wind chill garnered that elusive minus sign and waited at the door for the appointed hour. Promptly at five the door was unlocked, I gave my name to the hostess, received my beeper and proceeded to the bar area. I was first in line, a twenty minute wait in the incredibly cool bar and I would have a table.

Since I wanted to snap some photos without a flash on my I-Pad (dinner was not planned so camera stayed home) I chose the main dining area, with much better light and a view of the open kitchen.

My server was fantastic. Donning a handle bar mustache, he walked me through the menu, his favorites and answered several of my questions. As I ordered, one end of the mustache raised a touch and he asked, “how hungry are you?” That is the signal that I have ordered exactly the number of dishes that I should, in this case (1) Duck Tacos al Carbón; (2) Goat Barbacoa Enchiladas; and (3) Shrimp in Chilachole (the server’s number one choice).

The Tacos al Carbón included a plate of wood-grilled duck with roasted poblano rajas, guacamole, two salsas with a container [get name of container] of four soft tacos. A scoop of guacamole shared the plate with the duck. My first taste was the guacamole, and it was like none I have ever eaten. It was soft, creamy with nice pieces of tomato and onion, which carried some spiciness. The duck was succulent and full of flavor. I played the first taco safe with some of the red sauce and then kicked it on numbers 2 & 3 with the green. The dish set the bar very high after round number 1 of the night and I knew I was in for more than something extraordinary.

Goat Barbacoa Enchiladas included slow-cooked Kilgus goat barbacoa, “black” pasilla sauce, añejo cheese, and crunchy jícama-olive salsa. From the inside out… the goat was perfectly spiced to medium heat and was moist, and delicious. The mole encased the enchiladas with a deep, rich flavor of the 20+ ingredients that the Bayless mole is famous for. Sitting atop of the covered enchiladas were small cubes of jicama. The boldness of the flavors increased with each taste. When you finished the dish there was a slight spice after-burn which was light and pleasant.

The Shrimp in Chilachole was comprised of adobo-marinated Gulf shrimp, chilpachole (silky lobster broth infused with roasted tomato, chipotle, epazote), little crab-masa dumplings (chochoyotes), roasted chayote, confit radish, and a few crispy epazote leaves. This was the dish recommended by the server and I was extremely grateful for his honestly and his palate. It was so complex in flavors and each bite brought differing flavors, textures and spice. The marinade created a delicious flavor to the moist shrimp and the dumplings were like none I have tasted, almost a Mexican gnocchi in its texture. The diced vegetables were crunchy and flavorful and all of the ingredients were complemented by a slightly spicy sauce. A side of soft tacos are included to assist in enjoying as much of the sauce as possible.

Overall I place my three course culinary extravaganza as one of the most extraordinary exploration of flavors, many I have never tasted before. The complexity of the dishes, the balancing of the heat with the depth of flavors fully support the well agreed to opinion that Rick Bayless is a genius with flavor combinations and a perfectionist in execution.

Hudson Grille – Cool Place; Burger Not

Posted on February 7, 2013 by jfoodeats

Hudson Grille is receiving some press so I decided to see what all the hub-bub was about, and after my burger today I still have the same question. Yes the place has a great location, yes the place is incredibly cool inside and yes the staff is extremely nice, but at the end of the day the food draws me; if the hamburger is any indication, there are too many other places around that do it better.

I ordered the HUDSON GRILL (sic) BURGER with Comte cheese, caramelized onion, bacon aioli, brioche roll and fries. This sounded like a tremendous combo. The requested doneness was medium rare.

As you can see from my photo the delivery is picture-perfect, nicely stacked, fries in a pretty neat cone and a little cup of ketchup. The cheese sat atop the meat and there was a modest amount of onions. The bacon aioli was missing.

The fries still had their skins and were piping hot which meant freshly cooked so a positive, and the salt was applied in the kitchen. They were good but there was something weird with the texture, very grainy on the interior. They were the best part of the meal and can only give them an “OK.”

Now onto the hamburger. The meat was pretty basic meat, nothing special. It was cooked to my requested medium rare and had a good char on the exterior. When I cut it in half, not one ounce of juice flowed out of the burger, not a good sign. One taste confirmed my fear, no juiciness; it was bland, not seasoned at all and dry.

The accompaniments were equal to the meat. The “caramelized” onions were not; probably raw twenty minutes earlier, they were crunchy, pungent and were basic grilled onions, why restaurants call grilled onions “caramelized” baffles me, please just call them grilled. The Comte cheese was also not as expected. It was lacking flavor and added nothing to the overall taste. Likewise the bun could have been fresher. I ate half of the burger and decided that it was just not worth the effort.

Maybe some of the other items are better, but I would not make a special effort to go to Hudson Grille for the Hudson Grill (sic) Burger.

Plan B (Stamford) – on to Plan C

Posted on January 28, 2013 by jfoodeats

I was pretty excited to try Plan B, a Connecticut based chain with six locations, the newest in Stamford, with the motto of 100% humanely raised and serving aged chuck that is ground on premises. The menu contains over 20 combinations of burgers, almost 50 varieties of bottled craft beers and tons of bourbon choices…does the B stand for burger, beer or bourbon? The space is ultra-cool with tungsten lights dangling from the tin ceiling over wooden booths and tables. There are two separate dining areas, a family-friendly area to one side and a bar with TVs to hang with buddies and watch the ballgame. Plan B had the makings for a total bonanza.

A woody pub-styled entree way greets you with three large blackboards displaying bourbon and beer specials plus the “burger of the day,” which on one occasion was a beef patty stuffed with mashed potatoes, bacon and cheese – I would need a lot of the other “B”s to order that burger. Half of the regular menu combinations focus on beef burgers while the other half includes lobster, salmon, portabella mushroom, chicken, pork or turkey as the main ingredient. The beef combo that caught this carnivore’s eye was the “Bacon Cheese” – American cheese, bacon, caramelized onions and garlic mayo… basic shoestring fries or a salad included or ten other sides are available for a surcharge. Surprisingly only two levels of doneness are offered, “Some Pink” or “No Pink,” but the server whispered that rare or well done was also available. A “rare Bacon Cheese” for me and keep it simple with some shoestrings.

Patty #1 arrived and the doneness was none of the above, the interior was totally raw and the fries were undercooked, still a bit crunchy on the inside. So I asked the server for a re-fire and I ordered “Some Pink” for Patty #2.

Patty #2 had a great char, some melted American cheese, a couple of slices of bacon and a mound of onions, accompanied by a fresh cone of fries. It looked much better…but looks can be deceiving. The meat was juicy but almost flavorless… not a rich beefy flavor but a watery wetness and the saltiness on the exterior was over the top. The grind was incredibly loose, too loose, and each bite caused a piece of the meat to fall out of the other side. And the companion ingredients, well…the bacon was incredibly overcooked, stiff and hard, maybe a leftover from the previous day, and packed an additional wallop of salt. The “caramelized” onions weren’t good at all…maybe boiled and quickly grilled for some crispiness, with very little oniony flavor. As much as I liked the flavor of the sweet and buttery bun it just didn’t hold together, it kept falling apart with the meat pieces. The fries were again undercooked, still a little hard on the interior. Overall it was a disappointing experience. Maybe it was just a bad day since it was Sunday lunch, so a second visit was in the cards.

Round B at Plan B was a little better. Patty #3 was again “Some Pink Bacon Cheese” but arrived beyond well-done. When the manager noticed, he apologized and swiped it from the table…so onto Patty #4, which was again overcooked, to medium-well. The taste of Patty #4 was disappointing – some of the bites were tasteless and watery while others whacked me in the forehead with overwhelming saltiness. I was now as done as the meat. There was some good news…the fries were very good, they were crispy on the exterior, moist on the inside and properly salted and the caramelized onions were delicious with a soft and buttery texture with good oniony flavor. The bacon was fresh and better prepared, but the saltiness level was déjà vu…overpowering and the melted American cheese just couldn’t compete with these other bold flavors. The bun again had difficulty staying together.

After two visits, as much as the space and the service were fantastic, I realize that I am not a fan of Plan B. Most importantly I didn’t like the lacking of beef flavor in the meat, the saltiness was tongue-tingling and the doneness inconsistencies were just too large…four burgers…one raw, one rare, one medium-well, and one beyond well-done. When they nail the fries and caramelized onions these are very good, but they need to upgrade the bun and bacon. There are lots of Plan As in front of this Plan B.

The Whelk (Westport) – Neptune’s Nirvana

Posted on January 16, 2013 by jfoodeats

I finally experienced a deep dive of the seafood at The Whelk in Westport and it was an extraordinary culinary experience, showcasing the James Beard Nominee Bill Taibe’s talents of intertwining various flavors and textures into a cohesive presentation that will challenge and please palates.

We started our journey with the Sunburst Farm Smoked Trout dip with roe skin potato dill bread. The smoked trout offered a large variety of textures and flavors and it disappeared too quickly. Be careful, the bread disappears first and you may need to ask for more. This was a great way to start the evening.

A selection of oysters hit the table next and each presented a different flavor and texture but as one old time oyster fisherman once pointed out to me, when you eat an oyster you also need to focus on the level and differences in the salinity. You can almost tell their origin. And each of the oysters was so different in creaminess, flavor and salinity.

It is a little hard for me to believe that the first dish on my “extraordinary top-3” was the sweet and sour Brussel sprouts with white soy sauce, pumpkin seeds and rosemary. The flavors were over the top. The saltiness of the soy sauce complemented the sweet sprouts and the crispiness of the latter was perfect. Growing up I would never eat Brussel sprouts but this dish could make a convert of anyone.

The fried oyster on deviled eggs with onion pickles ain’t what you see at a Sunday social. The soft texture of the egg, the crunchy sweetness of the oyster and the onion pickles were fantastic. My only regret was that before I knew it the half-egg disappeared with two bites; I craved for more.

The warm Jonah crab claws with pepper relish, Benton’s ham and old bay was not on my “must have another” list. I admit that I am not a big crab claw fan and while others at the table raved about them they are just not my cup of tea. I just do not like the texture of crab claws, so it is my prejudice since others at the table loved them. For me I do need to point out that the Benton’s Ham is something that I had never tasted previously and I was an instant convert to this great addition.

As the table moved to the “crudo” portion of the meal the bar was raised even higher. There was slight disagreement as to which of the two earned the extraordinary status, I thought the cherry smoked cobia with warm cabbage and squash, barrel aged fish sauce, onions and butter was one of the best dishes ever. The first aspect that grabbed my attention was the texture of the cobia, with its firm, moist flesh, served in bite-sized cubes that accepted just a touch of the smokiness, and when the saltiness of the fish sauce kicked in and the other ingredients joined, the flavors brought an incredible smile to my face. The other dish, the crudo of “black bass with a blood oranges-lime Kosho sauce, fennel and sesame” was the clear choice of others at the table. At this point we were discussing “how high is up” with the level of deliciousness (not a bad place to be at dinner). The blood oranges offered a delicious sweet complement to the thinly-sliced fish and the Kosho brought just a touch of heat.

The last two dishes the table enjoyed were the Beer battered fluke fishsticks with celeriac, apple and kohlrabi slaw and creamy horseradish and the Squid ink cavatelli with red shrimp, Mexican chorizo and preserved tomato. The fishsticks were like none any of us have ever eaten. The crispy coating was delicious and the fluke was moist, flavorful and the texture was soft and delightful. The accompanying slaw was fantastic…it was difficult not eating more than two. Then I tried the pasta and the third slot in the trifecta now had a resident. The texture of the skid ink pasta was just delightful, and combined with the sauce would have made this dish fantastic, but Taibe added a few perfectly prepared shrimp to raise the bar even higher and finally hid a few thin slices of chorizo in the dish to grab your attention. One of the best pastas dishes anywhere.

For me all of the dishes were in an ultra-premium league but I need to call out the Trifecta Nirvana with the Brussel sprouts, the Cobia and the Squid Ink Pasta. These three dishes were extraordinary, all so different, all so perfectly composed and all so perfectly divine. But when you are eating at this level, it is all good, no let me rephrase, it is all great.

575 Riverside Avenue – Westport, CT 06880 – 203.557.0902

The Chelsea (Fairfield) – Burger From Paradise

Posted on January 9, 2013 by jfoodeats

When I heard that Matt Storch, the chef/owner of Match in South Norwalk, was opening a more casual sister restaurant in Fairfield called The Chelsea, I was excited. I’ve enjoyed many meals at Match, and the combination of The Chelsea’s more casual atmosphere and menu plus Storch’s talents should be a winner.

The Chelsea has seating for 80, whether you want to grab a drink in their English-style pub area featuring a long wooden bar with about a dozen seats, or sit at a table in their airy and inviting atrium. Their menu includes a wide variety of gourmet bar-food options plus eclectic and fusion dishes, all under $25. It offers two burgers: the Salt and Pepper Burger ($12.95), a plain and simple char-grilled patty on a seeded brioche bun, and the Chelsea Burger ($13.95) featuring a “cheddar dip,” sweet-sour onions, and chopped bacon on an onion brioche bun from Good Bread Bakery in Port Chester.

The hamburgers at The Chelsea are definite A-Listers. I ordered each medium-rare and the kitchen complied with perfectly grilled patties. The burgers came pre-cut—not as ordered, but as done to all of their burgers. When I asked about the pre-cut process, I was told, “We like the customer to see the meat and the juice.” Separating the halves revealed a promising pink interior plus a coarse, tender grind.

The meat is a 75/25 blend of chuck, brisket, and short rib from local organic purveyor Saugatuck Craft Butchery that is dry-aged for two weeks. The seven-ounce burgers are ground with an extra-coarse die and hand-pattied each morning and again before dinner. The gas-fired grill imparts a crispy char on the exterior, while the coarse, loosely packed interior stays juicy.

Since there aren’t any toppings on the Salt and Pepper Burger, it’s all about the flavor of the beef. And aside from being neither salty nor peppery, it succeeds with pronounced smokiness from the grill and a deep, rich, beefy flavor. The burger is served on a toasted seeded brioche bun that makes the meat-to-bun ratio a little heavier on the bun side, but the flavors of the meat balance well with the buttery brioche bun.

The Chelsea Burger elevates the basic burger with the addition of numerous toppings—cheddar dip, sweet-sour onions and chopped bacon—and a switch to an onion brioche bun. I was concerned that the flavors would fight each other, but they work in perfect unison. The cheddar isn’t just a few melted slices but a complete cheese-wrap due to the finished patty getting dipped into a bacon-cheese Béchamel sauce before being placed on the bun. The crumbled bacon lends salty-smokiness and crunch while the onions add the desired onion flavor improved with a kick of sweet and sour, plus a soft texture that complements the crunchy bacon bits and the patty’s char. Everything balances perfectly with the bun’s soft texture and buttery flavor. This is one of the most flavorful combinations of meat, toppings, and bun in the area.

The accompanying fries were very good—crispy on the outside, moist and soft on the inside, and well salted. They come sprinkled with Parmesan cheese for more saltiness and parsley that added more color than flavor. I enjoyed the fries more with the Salt and Pepper Burger than the Chelsea Burger—maybe the additional flavors presented in the latter were a little too powerful for the fries.

For a delicious basic burger the Salt and Pepper Burger is a great option, but to truly appreciate The Chelsea’s burgers, go for the Chelsea Burger.

The Chelsea – 12 Unquowa Place – Fairfield – (203) 254-8200

This review was originally published on A Hamburger Today on January 10, 2013 at http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2013/01/the-chelsea-burger-review-fairfield-ct.html?ref=pop_a_hamburger_today

Corner Table (Minneapolis) Still Serving Delicious Local Food

Posted on December 21, 2012 by jfoodeats

It has been a little while since my last visit to Corner Table, the management has changed but the focus remains sourcing and serving local flavors. And the end result is still delicious food.

On this cold winter evening I sat with my back to the windows and I wish I would have worn a sweater as I was cold throughout the meal. I ordered the pork belly, braised cabbage, apple puree, and mustard seed ($9) for my appetizer and the pan roasted duck breast, sweet potato gnocchi, black garlic, and winter greens ($26).

As I waited, the server brought a plate of bread that was still cool; I never understand why a restaurant starts the meal on a note that could so easily be better with 30 seconds in the oven. There were two slices of Focaccia that had a mid-level of flavor and two slices of a baguette that had good texture and crispy exterior. It was a good start to the evening, but could have been better.

The belly was brought and visually this was one of the most beautiful dishes I have seen in a while. The pale yellow apple puree was plated, then topped with the shredded red cabbage and finally crowned with a large piece of belly. A few dollops of whole grain mustard dotted the puree and snipped chives added green contrast.

The belly was prepared confit-style in its own fat for 6 hours and then pressed to hold the shape. It was tender, flavorful, and maintained a high level of juiciness. The braised cabbage maintained its crispiness while braised and had an earthy quality and the apple puree had a slight level of sweetness but not too sweet. Together the salty warm pork, the slightly cooler and crispy cabbage and then the cool and creamy puree created perfect complementary textures, temperatures and flavors. I can characterize this dish as a brilliant interpretation of the seasonal flavors.

The duck was not in the same league as the belly, not many dishes I have tried recently are. The duck had a mild flavor, served rare with the skin slightly salted before the kitchen sliced and plated. Although technically the sweet potatoes were Gnocchi, they were more mashed sweet potatoes that were slightly sautéed; a more apt description would be small, round sweet potato croquettes. The sauce was not as rich in flavor as I hoped for and the flavor of the black garlic was almost missing. Overall I was looking for more contrasts in this dish as presented in the appetizer. There was a salty component, but my tongue wished for a sour, sweet or spicy for some contrast. Likewise the texture was one-dimensional.

With the perfect appetizer, it would be hard for an equally brilliant second course, but Corner Table is still serving delicious, locally sourced food in a relaxed environment. Would I return…absolutely.

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying

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