Coup d’État (Minneapolis) – Outstanding in Uptown

Posted on March 13, 2014 by jfoodeats

Cou[ d’Etat opened two months ago and is already serving delicious cuisine. Located on the corner of Girard Avenue South and Lagoon Avenue across from the independent movie house, this newly reconstructed building offers numerous rooms, a hip and vibrant vibe, several bars and interior seating for about 200 people and when the weather warms, another 100+ guest can enjoy the cuisine al fresco. No expense was spared by the people that brought MSP Borough Restaurant in the design with tin bars, leather covered chairs, dark woods, several different chandeliers and an open stainless steel kitchen. Yet the prices on the menu and the quality and the size of the portions reflect a focus on high quality with reasonable prices.

When I entered the restaurant at 600PM on a Monday evening the bar was already 50% full and for the next 45 minutes I noticed people arriving for dinner while others, mid-20’s, leaving for their next stops. The restaurant is both an after-work meeting place for a quick drink and a dinner destination. The crowd on my visit was more 20’s and 30’s versus their parents and this created a very youthful, hip vibe to complement to décor.

The opening room contains a large u-shaped bar that seats 24 surrounded by high tables along the windows for another 30, booths to the side for 50 another bar overlooking the kitchen in the rear for another 10 guests. Eclectic chandeliers and soft globes light the main room. There is another huge room in the rear plus additional space on the second floor. The interior is massive. A large chalkboard hangs on the wall above the kitchen displaying the menu.

The menu on their website is fairly accurate, although some ingredients may vary and some of the prices might be different but it will give a good indication of the cuisine. The server told me the chefs were all in their thirties, had some local experience. From the menu, it appears they tend to lean towards adding a spicy component to most of the dishes and are creative in blending various cuisines.

For a first course I ordered the “Gnocchi.” This mildly dense version delivered a good texture, but just missed great with just a tad on the gummy side. They were crisped on the exterior and nestled in a pool of brown butter that contained a good amount of garlic, and topped with chives, grated parmesan and the surprise ingredient, black truffles. I was skeptical about truffles in a $12 pasta dish, but they were there and added their delicious earthiness. The size was a little large for an appetizer and a little small for an entrée, but for the price the flavors, textures and presentation was fantastic.

For an entrée I ordered the “Pork Osso bucco.” It is served with orange, fennel, fregola and turnips. This would be better described as a pork shank on a menu as it was an enormous piece of meat. I asked for a sharp knife and the server gave me one but told me there should be no need for a sharp knife and she was correct. In fact there was no need for any knife as the meat was so tender and well roasted that it fell off the bone. The flavors were great with a good spiciness from “lots of pepper.” The orange gave a nice citrusy background to the meat but the fennel was non-existent. The fregola was delicious and I told the server the kitchen should add more to the plate since it was a meagerly portion given the size of the shank. The three halves of the turnip were sweet and delicious as well. I was looking for some textural contrast, the on-line menu states marcona almonds, and I think the chef should reconsider that or change the grain to one with a crunchy exterior. This was a fantastic shank, one of the best.

And the service was even better than the meal. My server was spot on in every aspect of the meal.

Overall this was one of the best meals I have enjoyed in Minneapolis and for the price and atmosphere this should definitely be a date night destination if anyone is thinking of dinner and a movie.

Figlio (St. Louis Park, MN) – Incredibly Disappointing

Posted on March 13, 2014 by jfoodeats

After so many great meals in the Minneapolis area, I knew my luck would eventually run out. For some reason I changed my normal process of choosing a restaurant, did not check my normal sources and chose Figlio for dinner. As much as the décor was cool and hip, the atmosphere vibrant, the server energetic and the crowd streaming in, the food was the trifecta of unappetizing food.

After being promptly seated, the server arrived, described the specials and guided me to less food than I thought I wanted to order. The server brought over a basket of bread, four baguette slices that were slightly warmed and the server placed some olive oil and a few drops of balsamic vinegar on the plate. It is important to eat the bread while it is warm as when it cools, it hardens quickly and approaches unappetizing.

My appetizer, the “Beet Salad” is described on the menu to include butter lettuce, hazelnut, pickled shallots with sour cream and horseradish vinaigrette. This was like no other beet salad I have ever seen, it was a mound of butter lettuce with the others ingredients on top, and the beets were cubes of several varieties tossed with the other ingredients. The beets ranged from sweet to tasteless to bitter, the shallots were overly pungent, not really pickled, the lettuce was bitter and the vinaigrette overwhelmed all the other flavors. The hazelnuts were completely lost. There was not one ingredient other than a few cubes of the light colored beets that were tasty. Each of the components was unappealing and together they were borderline inedible. I had a few bites and pushed aside.

The oven “Roasted Chicken” was served with roasted eggplant, tomato jam, Israeli couscous, samfaina, and fresh herbs. The roasted chicken was a single chicken breast, cut in half to give the appearance of a half a chicken. It was vastly overcooked and dry, and the exposed meat was even drier than the interior, probably from over roasting compounded by sitting under the heat lamps after being cut in half. The skin was flaccid and lacked any crispness, how the kitchen accomplished this is a mystery. It was completely inedible. The couscous was cooked to the proper doneness but it was cool when served. The samfaina was covered with two slices of melted supermarket quality cheese, without any rhyme or reason. After two bites of the chicken and one bite of each of the accompaniments, it was time to move on. I sent it back.

The server suggested the pizza and I reluctantly chose the “Sausage” with fennel sausage, grilled apple, rosemary, mozzarella, and tomato sauce. The crust was very a thin cracker crust and the toppings were very generous. The crust was horrible and tasted like flour and water. As much as I saw some fennel seeds, there was very little fennel flavor in the sausage, the cheese was tasteless and the apples did nothing to the overall composition. But a bite of the pie surprisingly delivered an overwhelming mouthful of pepper…none of the ingredients could be tasted through the abundance of pepper. I felt embarrassed not eating at least a few slices, so I suffered through this affront to pizza.

As much as the server was pleasant and informative, sometimes overly, and offered dessert “on the house” I declined and decided to cut my losses and head out. Other than the physical plant and the overly eager staff, Figlio was a complete culinary disappointment.

Bareburger (Ridgefield) – Cool Space; Not My Favorite Burger

Posted on March 10, 2014 by jfoodeats

My colleagues at http://www.ctbites.com did an opening piece on Bareburger so it was my turn to head over and give it a try. Bareburger offers organic cuisine in a very rustic and comfortable environment. Choose from one of approximately 50 table seats or opt to sit at the bar with 5 others. The interior includes reclaimed wood and brick walls, a reclaimed metal ceiling, and metal and wood chairs, all lit by soft lights from the ceiling.

There are several beers on tap including Purple Haze, Allagash White, Two Roads, Half Full, Ommegang, Victoria Prima, Lagunitas and Brooklyn Lager. Numerous organic sodas and Kelvin Natural Slush drinks are available as a non-alcoholic option. Each table has ketchup and mustard served in cuddly bear plastic containers plus individual salt and pepper mills.

The menu includes pre-determined combinations of burgers or design your own from a large selection of meats, toppings and buns. In addition to tradition beef and turkey, you can choose lamb, wild boar, elk, bison and ostrich. Each of these meats carry a surcharge. In addition, the menu includes a few non-burger choices and on Sundays, Bareburger serves brunch with a variety of egg plates and sandwiches.

For my initial visit I ordered a beef hamburger (medium-rare) on a brioche with fried onions, cheddar cheese and Applewood smoked bacon. I was surprised that French fries were not included so I asked for a small order, plus a diet root beer.

When the platter arrived I first sampled the fries and they were delicious, crispy on the exterior and moist on the interior. I noticed that they were without any salt, so I added a touch. These were excellent fries. I took a few sips of the root beer, it had great flavor but a little on the sweet side.

I next cut the burger in half. It was cooked perfectly, a good pink interior. I sampled the meat. My first impression was that it was bland and under-seasoned and had a spongy texture. The bacon was very thick, too thick and it had very little smokiness and very little saltiness. The Cheddar cheese was melted well but was also very bland. The few fried onions also contained no seasoning. The bun lacked the buttery goodness I anticipated and was very crumbly. Overall, the burger was very disappointing. Everything was bland and completely under-seasoned.

When the bill arrived, I knew that my combination would add up but when I saw $17.25 for my bacon-cheeseburger and fries I almost felt offended. Add the soda and a tip and my tab for a burger lunch was over $25…a family of four at Bareburger for burgers and fries could cost upwards of $100. I understand everything was organic, and others may think this is a reasonable price, but I thought it was very expensive.

Lion’s Tap (Eden Prairie) – Excellent Burgers in Relaxed Setting

Posted on March 8, 2014 by jfoodeats

The Lion’s Tap is a straight forward concept, choose a couple of menu items, do it well and people will enjoy and return. It is a perfect place to grab a burger at the spur of the moment, or bring the family for an inexpensive dinner. It is a very relaxed, family-style atmosphere mixed with a bar and maintains the history of the location, that began as vegetable stand turned bar turned hamburger and beer joint.

Since 1958 when Ma Schaefer sold the bar to her niece Irene Lyons and husband Sears Lyons the restaurant has been selling hamburgers. Originally the hamburgers were made in an electric frying pan (four at a time) and sold for $.25 each. The business was sold to Lloyd Berg in 1974 and began serving French fries. Ownership was sold to his brother, Vern Berg, shortly thereafter, the kitchen was expanded and sold again three years later to Don and June Gilbert. A few months later the restaurant was again sold to Bert and Bonnie Notermann in 1977, and the name was changed to Lions Tap.

The Notermanns added their own brought in their own “secret seasoning” to the daily made individual patties plus the buns were slightly toasted on the grill. Toppings then included fresh produce, cheese, bacon and onions. With so many owners over the years, Lion’s Tap still maintains its singular focus of great burgers, fries and beer.

The menu includes basic hamburgers, fries, sodas and a full selection of craft beers. Toppings appeal to the traditional burger lover with both American and Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato, bacon, fried onions and sautéed mushrooms. Both single and double patties are available. On my visits I normally order a single bacon cheeseburger with fried onions and a side of fries. The meat has always arrived to my requested medium-rare, the strips of bacon crispy without being overcooked and the fried onions, well fried onion, and not burnt. And Lion’s Tap does deserve a special call-out for the slightly toasted bun that opens the flavor. This special seasoning adds just a tang of spice to the meat and the other ingredients are also very good. This is a simply made, delicious bacon cheeseburger. The best way to describe the crinkle cut fries is they are perfectly cooked and it is rare, if ever, that any remain on my plate.

Whether you are looking for a quick lunch with a friend or colleague or a family burger night, Lion’s Tap is my go-to burger haven in Eden Prairie.

16180 Flying Cloud Drive – Eden Prairie – MN – 952.934.5299

Open seven days per week – 11:00 am – 10:00 pm

Chops Lobster Bar (Boca Raton) – Bad Night Personified

Posted on March 7, 2014 by jfoodeats

It was an interesting visit to Chops Lobster House in Boca Raton, and it was not because everything was perfect and delicious, quite the opposite. Other than the General Manager who finally handled the situation in a brilliantly professional manner, each of the other stops in our visit were more sink-holes than successes.

Atmosphere – Oustanding. Almost a clone of the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station in NYC. Soft lighting, and a beautifully designed interior gave the impression that you were about to experience a wonderful dining experience. Each of the staff was dressed in ties and it was a delightful throwback to the NY Steak House era. I give major points to the designer of the space and the entire decor.

Food – Basically inedible. This is one of the most expensive menus you will find with entrées hovering from $25-60 in the a la carte section, but they offer a very well-priced fixed price $49 three course menu during the week. The choices on this menu are excellent and a great option if you would like a more reasonably priced dinner with smaller portions. I ordered the fixed price with French Onion Soup, the 12-oz lamb chop with a side of Brussels sprouts and mushrooms, plus the NY Cheesecake with fresh local strawberries. The soup was presented in a tureen, topped with melted cheese and the presentation was very nice. The rendition was not. The cheese was not a nutty Gruyere that I expected but was a milder combination of other cheeses and the broth lacked any depth of flavor. It was a bland interpretation. The lamb chop was plopped on the dish. Cutting this mound of meat was next to impossible and I asked if they could assist and they returned the chop to the kitchen where it separated the meat from the bone. When it returned there was a total of 2-3 ounces of meat plus an enormous bone. I then understood why my knife was struggling, it was not designed to cut bone. The meat on the filet side was excellent but a meagerly two bites and the strip side was so tough and I could not cut it with my steak knife. The Brussels sprouts were inedible, overly salted and way too much garlic. For others at the table the news was not much better. Almost all of the steaks were overcooked and I will withhold comments on a fried lobster tail. The Cheesecake was delicious (better than the chocolate cake) and was the best part of the evening.

Services – Abysmal. As much as the server was pleasant at the beginning of the meal in taking drink orders and explaining the specials, he failed miserably thereafter. The runners delivered most of the dishes to the wrong guest and we did a carousel to place the correct dish in front of the correct guest. One order of Petite Filet (requested pink inside) was delivered as a Surf and Turf. When we mentioned this to he server he argued with us that we ordered the S&T, not once, but three times. Then he told us to move the lobster tail aside and just eat the steak. Really? He finally acquiesced and re-fired the dish. Round 2 of that order arrived well-well, but everyone else was almost finished and we wanted to salvage some form of group dinner. Two of the other filets were also overcooked and one was sent back. It was a very staggered dining experience for the table. The runners constantly rushed around our table bumping my chair, I spoke to the MOD and asked him to tell the servers to stop, they continued to bump my chair and I need to tell each of them to please stop. One on them was incredibly unprofessional after this and aggressively grabbed plates from the table and gave me “that look” and then he slammed the dirty dishes into the dirty dish bin. When the server finally returned for coffee / tea orders, he only asked the people who did not send food back for their orders, neglecting the rest of the table. I struggle remembering a worse group of servers.

Management – Other than the General Manager, they were unhelpful. The people at the hostess station and the Manger on Duty nodded a lot and did nothing. Finally the General Manager stepped in (on my third visit) and she was fantastic, finally someone who cared and understood the hospitality business. She saw how badly her staff treated us, how horribly the kitchen prepared the meals and did the appropriate course of action, removed the meals from the bill. The top of the pyramid was the sole bright spot in the staff and she was fantastic.

Overall it was a horrible visit to what is supposed to be a great restaurant. Restaurants can have off nights, I understand, and how they handle the situation is important. The serving and kitchen staffs failed miserable on numerous occasions, and the only saving grace was the General Manager who I believe was truly flabbergasted in the horrific actions of so many of her staff.

Cask Republic (Stamford) – Beer, Bourbon, Whisk(e)ys and More

Posted on February 25, 2014 by jfoodeats

Cask Republic opened its second location in Stamford recently to expand on the popularity of its sister location in New Haven. Aptly named, the restaurant, well more accurately a beer and Whisky haven, features an enormous selection of beers on tap, and one of the largest selections of single malt Scotches in the area. The beer menu is as long as it is broad and represents almost every type of beer imaginable; included in the enormous beer selection are lagers, pilsners, bocks, ambers, browns, barley wines, Pale ales, India pale ales, wheats, whites, Belgians, porters, stouts, and for those varieties without a specific designation, EtCetera. Cask represents the candy store for beer aficionados.

For those looking for a little stiffer refreshment, Cask also offers an equally impressive selection of bourbons, ryes, Scotch whisky and whiskey. An entire menu is dedicated to Single Malt Scotches with over thirty different vintages offered.

The atmosphere is both relaxed and vibrant. Grab a table or booth with friends, meet new friends at the communal table, or chill in a lazy chair by the fireplace, Cask offers as many options for seating as it does beer and spirits.

The food is definitely the younger sister to the beer and spirits. Focused to pair with the beer and spirits, the menu includes cheese boards (8 choices), a few pizza combinations, plus small and large plates. Indulge in “Small Plates” ranging from “Kale Salad” with radicchio, lentils, cranberries, walnuts and creamy ginger vinaigrette to “Smoked Short Rib Meatballs” with IPA BBQ glaze and crumbled Maytag bleu cheese, to “Soy Glazed Wings” with jalapeno ginger-lime sauce to “Baby Surf and Turf” with tenderloin, shrimp, potato cake topped with blue cheese truffle sauce. I really liked the Pork Confit Sliders, the meat was tender and the sauce delivered great flavor and if you see those on the menu grab a couple of orders for the table.

Larger plates are more limited and include a couple of sandwiches, “House Made Lamb Pastrami Reuben,” and a “Fork & Knife Sandwich” with thinly sliced short rib, cranberry aioli, gorgonzola, and caramelized onions, and more substantial options including salmon, steak and chicken.

Whether you are a beer and spirits maven, want to sample and expand your beer IQ, or show off and buy the table a round of $32 bourbons Cask offers something for everyone with a variety of food.

Rincon Taqueria (Norwalk) – A Hidden Gem in Plain Sight

Posted on February 20, 2014 by jfoodeats

Rincon Taqueria is the epitome of a hidden gem.

The exterior is fairly non-descript and the interior is one large, open space, but the food is delicious. As you enter there are tables for twenty patrons to the left and behind these tables is a long glass deli case containing large baskets and bowls filled with several varieties of chili peppers. Along the right wall are three six-foot tall refrigerators with bottles of soda, home-canned items and take-away containers, including homemade apple sauce, beef and vegetable soup, cassoulet with duck and pork, duck confit. Taqueria?

The young lady behind the counter asked if I needed assistance. I looked at the wall behind her and saw two large hand-written chalkboard menus with more traditional taqueria fare…Huevas Rancheros, Burritos, Chilaquiles, Tacos, Empanadas, Tamales and a Chicken Quesadilla. I ordered a trio of tacos…a fried fish, a beef and a pork. As it turns out the young lady is one of the owners, Maria Munoz Del Castillo.

As I waited, Maria brought a plate of Frijoles con Arroz. In addition to the slightly spicey rice and black beans, the dish contained a few green beans, corn, scallions, diced red onions and topped with cilantro. It was a very pleasant way to wait for my meal.

The tacos arrived and each had a generous amount of filling and these tacos were not just meat and salsa, there were several additional toppings on each.

I started with the fish taco since I thought this would be the mildest. It contained three pieces of lightly coated and fried fish, topped with cilantro pesto, salsa, fresh cilantro, diced red onion and scallions. The flavors were bright and delightful, accentuated by a good amount of garlic. This was not a typical Baja fish taco and it was delicious.

I next moved to the beef taco. In addition to the toppings of the fish taco, the beef taco was topped with a sprinkling of grated cheese and crema. The first bite was fantastic. The shredded meat was a deep braised beef, full of bold flavors. This taco was a combination of Latin and Basque flavors with the mild hint of spiciness from the chili peppers. The beef and the toppings could easily be served by themselves as an entrée.

The pork taco was even better. Instead of the traditional sautéed cubes of pork, this rendition started with a mound of shredded pork. The texture and flavors indicated a long, slow cooked pork shoulder. The toppings were the same as the beef taco, with just a little more spice. The pork was one of the best braised pork dishes I have tasted and, like the beef, could easily be served as an entrée. The pork taco was outstanding.

After I was finished, I asked Maria about the food and the recipes. She informed me that her mom was the talent behind the cuisine. She was raised in Chile, was a formally-trained French chef and her family previously owned Bistro du Soleil in SONO. You can taste her love of the Basque cuisine in each of the dishes.

I entered Rincon Taqueria looking for some good tacos and left with the knowledge that this newly opened restaurant was serving some outstanding non-traditional cuisine. This is not your everyday taqueria.

This review was originally published at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2014/2/20/rincon-taqueria-in-norwalk-a-hidden-gem-in-plain-sight.html

Barolo Trattoria and Wine Bar (New Canaan) Opens September 19

Posted on February 20, 2014 by jfoodeats

A few weeks ago CTBites announced the anticipated opening of Barolo Trattoria and Wine Bar in New Canaan and we are pleased to announce that Barolo will open its doors to the public on Wednesday, February 19^th. Under the ownership of Rafaelo Gallo, Erick Grant, and Gary Weinstein, Barolo will offer a relaxed atmosphere in its Antipasti Bar or a slightly more formal approach in its dining room. Roe Duva, the long-time owner of Bistro Bonne Nuit is also a member of the family. Overseeing the kitchen is Executive Chef Giuseppe Castellano. Born and raised in Naples and Giugliano, Italy Chef Castellano trained throughout Italy and then worked throughout Italy before moving to the US. His recent experience includes Gran Gusto in Cambridge and Tiella Restaurant in NYC. He told CTBites, “We will focus on the Piedmont style on the menu.” Given Chef Castellano’s southern Italian roots and his desire to create northern Italy cuisine, the opening menu is designed for the full Italian culinary experience.

The interior of the restaurant has been redecorated to create a soft, hip atmosphere. The front area includes two bars; an Antipasti Bar to the left and a liquor bar on the opposite wall. For a lighter meal, guests can relax at one of these bars, order from the top half of the menu, and enjoy a light meal with a glass of wine. To the rear of the restaurant is the main dining area, accented with soft chandeliers over booths and tables.

A sneak peek at the opening menu indicates a wide range of options to allow each guest to design the meal from numerous smaller plates or opt for a traditional multi-course Italian experience.

The top half of the menu offers numerous smaller plates in the “Salumi & Formaggi,” “Dal Mare,” “Per Iniziare” and “Insalates” sections; with traditional meats including two different Prosciuttos, Coppa and Soppressata, soft and hard cheeses, plus a full raw bar with both east and west coast oysters. Hot appetizers contain a large variety of Kobe beef meatballs, wild boar sausage, slow cooked eggplant parmesan and octopus. Insalates comprise a traditional Romana Caesar and Tri-Colore, plus a multi-ingredient Kale.

Move to the bottom half of the menu and choose from the various choices in “Le Pizze,” “Primi” and “Secondi” sections. There are currently three pizza combinations from a traditional Margherita to a spicy Diavola. The pastas are all made in-house with numerous shapes, both extruded and filled, along with traditional, wheat and black cuttlefish pastas. Several that caught my eye include a black cuttlefish spaghetti with lobster, crab meat and cherry tomato, a paccheri with prime short rib ragu and a traditional Piedmont meat agnolotti with butter, Parmesan cheese and a sage sauce. Other sauces with meats, seafood, plus vegetarian are also available. The Secondi section focuses on a full array of meats (all organic and anti-biotic free), fish and poultry. From a “beef filet mignon with a Barolo wine sauce” to a “Braised lamb shank in vegetable ragout” to a traditional Veal Milanese and potato crusted Dorado, each the entrées will allow the natural flavors of the ingredients to shine.

Stay tuned when I return to Barolo after its opening to report back.

136 Main Street – New Canaan, CT 06840 – (203) 920-1515

Kotobuki (Stamford) – Fresh, Basic Sushi Bar

Posted on February 9, 2014 by jfoodeats

Located in a small storefront on Summer Street in downtown Stamford is Kotobuki. Enter the restaurant and you can choose from several tables or wander to the back of the dining area and sit at the sushi bar. After several visits over many years, I would recommend Kotobuki as a place to enjoy very basic,but very good and fresh sushi, and in the end fresh is good.

The miso soup is full of flavor and really warmed us on a cold winter night. The fried dumplings were very small, one bite per dumpling but really good flavor.Some my think both are a little on the salty side.

The rolls (eight piece per) are very small in diameter, may 1″, tasty but I wanted more fish in each. Most of the choices contain “spicy” with a couple of combinations that I have never seen on any other menu, i.e. a Betty Roll. The menu also includes a la carte sushi and sashimi selections, the price on the menu is for 1-piece sushi. Each piece is large, the tuna and unagi were very good.

Overall, Kotobuki is a quick place to grab some fresh sushi.

Morello Italian Bistro (Greenwich) – Exquisitely Beautiful with Delicious Food

Posted on February 8, 2014 by jfoodeats

Morello Italian Bistro is architecturally one of the most beautiful restaurants in Connecticut and offers equally delicious cuisine. The exquisite interior of the landmark building on Greenwich Avenue was designed by Rafael Guastavino, Jr, whose father invented the golden amber tile vaulting system that grace the pillars, herringbone arches and ceilings. Art adorns the walls, and the soft, hand blown white tear-drop shaped glass chandeliers, descending from the ceiling create a beautifully romantic atmosphere for dinner. As we worked our way through appetizers, pastas, entrees and desserts General Manager Jimmy Branigan, Jr. was the perfect host, stopping by the table on several occasions to explain the composition of many of the courses and offer suggestions from the reasonably priced wine list.
While we leisurely perused the menu, we enjoyed the “Prosciutto & Parmesan Fritters.” The large fritters delivered complementary textures and flavors. The crisp exterior was offset by the marvelously smooth interior, which presented a delicious combination of prosciutto and Fontina cheese. The dish was finished with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese which added the perfect level of saltiness to the fried exterior. An order or two for the table is an excellent way to start the meal.
We next shared several of the appetizers including the “Hamachi Crudo,” the “Roasted Asparagus & Egg,” and the “Imported Pugliese Burrata.” My favorite was the crudo. Four thick, sashimi-style slices of Hamachi were accented with basil, pickled pear, lemon zest, chili, extra-virgin olive oil, and finished with sea salt. The Hamachi was more than capable of handling the slightly soured pear, the acidity of the lemon and the sea salt; the basil added a unique dimension that made for a delectable composition. The Asparagus & Egg was also delicious and would be perfect for a Sunday brunch. The asparagus were crisp and sweet, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and then topped with the fried egg. When the yolk was released, its creaminess was a delightful combination with the asparagus and cheese.The Burrata was less than satisfying. The cheese was too tangy for my taste and overwhelmed the warmed tomatoes and pistachios.
Pastas can be ordered as an entrée or as half-portions for an appetizer. My favorite of the three that we ordered was the “Butternut Squash Ravioli,” which was served with brown butter, and finished with diced squash and sage. Six raviolis comprised a half-portion. The pureed squash was sweet and smooth and the brown butter and sage were a perfect complement. The “Morello’s Garganelli Bolognese” was a very good rendition. The all-beef sauce was deep in flavor and the house-made garganelli’s shape allowed the sauce to cling to each piece. The addition of the herbed ricotta added a few background accents that created a wide flavor profile. The third pasta was the “Squid Ink Pasta with Lobster.” I was not fond of this combination. While the pasta itself was delicious, it was slightly overcooked and a little gummy. The sauce contained a lot of sweet lobster meat, but lacked the vibrant flavors that the other dishes delivered.
The three entrées presented very different combinations. The “Hudson Valley Magret Duck Breast” was accompanied by gooseberries, pistachio pieces and red watercress, all served atop two brushes of cherry sauce. The duck breast brought the texture and richness of a great beef or lamb filet, deep and rich with a firm texture. The gooseberries and the pistachios offset the gaminess of the meat with sweet and nutty notes, respectively. The duck was a delicious choice. The “Pan Roasted Scottish Salmon” was served atop fennel braised in orange juice, olives and raisins. The fish was prepared to my requested medium and was deep and rich in flavor and the accompaniments brought bright notes to the preparation. Offsetting and brightening richness of the fish were the sweetness of the orange braised fennel and the raisins; while the olive brought a hint of saltiness. The skin was over-salted and I removed it to better enjoy the fish. Our third entrée was the “Roasted Scallops & Caramelized Cauliflower” with capers, caper berries, sultanas, and pancetta and served atop roasted cauliflower. The first taste included some of the capers, which were extremely salty and I needed to push them aside. Once the capers were eliminated the dish was significantly better. The scallops were perfectly seared on both sides, translucent on the interior and delightfully sweet. The sultanas delivered additional sweetness, the pancetta added the necessary saltiness, while the cauliflower added an earthy complement.
The three desserts were outstanding. My favorite was the “Salted Caramel Cheesecake.” The individually prepared cheesecake had a thin graham cracker crust and was presented nestled in a dollop of perfectly prepared caramel sauce. The filling was not too sweet and when combined with the caramel sauce was fantastic. The whipped cream added a little creaminess and the dish was complemented with a crunchy almond tuile. Another fabulous choice was the “Molten Chocolate Cake.” Morello’s version included a dark chocolate cake with a milk chocolate center sitting in a pool of caramel and served with a scoop of vanilla gelato. Each of the components presented a different amount of sweetness and when combined created a delicious and beautiful offering. Our last dessert was the “Yogurt Panna Cotta.” Whereas the other desserts were focused on sweet, the panna cotta offered a slightly tart alternative. The panna cotta was served with Nebbiolo poached pear slices, and topped with thyme accented semolina crumbs. The pears were incredibly flavorful from the wine poaching and complemented the tartness of the yogurt panna cotta. The crumb added a good textural difference.
Morello Italian Bistro is a beautiful restaurant with some outstanding dishes for both a romantic special event or a simple dinner with friends.

253 Greenwich Ave, Greenwich • (203) 661-3443

Really Liked
Prosciutto & Parmesan Fritters
Hamachi Crudo
Roasted Asparagus & Egg
Butternut Squash Ravioli
Hudson Valley Magret Duck Breast
Salted Caramel Cheesecake
Molten Chocolate Cake

Liked
Morellos Garganelli Bolognese
Pan Roasted Scottish Salmon
Yogurt Panna Cotta

Not Fond of
Imported Pugliese Burrata
Squid Ink Pasta with Lobster
Roasted Scallops & Caramelized Cauliflower

This review was originally posted on CTBites at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2014/2/16/morello-italian-bistro-in-greenwich-beautiful-food-in-an-exq.html

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying

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