NOLA Oyster Bar – Outstanding Seafood in SONO

Posted on September 8, 2013 by jfoodeats

I re-visited NOLA Oyster Bar a few months after its opening to enjoy some of the newest additions to the menu. Chef Dan Kardos is clearly in charge of the kitchen and his culinary talent is evident as he creates some of the most delicious cuisine in Fairfield County.

The Seafood Tower, a dedication to cold shellfish (plus tuna), was the first course served to our table. The generous portions included Cherrystone clams, snow crab legs, Copps Island oysters, shrimp, and charred Hamachi crudo. A house made mignonette sauce accompanied the oysters. All of the items on the Tower were delightful. The crudo was marinated in white and dark balsamic vinegar plus a combination of lime and tangerine juices; it was tantalizing. The crab legs and shrimp were sweet with just a touch of seasoning to emphasize the natural flavors. The Copps Island oysters were a little bitter with very little salinity, but the addition of the mignonette sauce drastically changed the flavor profile from bitter to delicious.

It is rare that I rave about a vegetable dish, but the Brussels sprouts at Nola were outstanding. Fried and then topped with a sweet maple glaze, it was almost impossible to stop eating them. Chef Kardos then added more crunch with a smattering of chopped pistachios and bacon. The Brussels sprouts should be a communal order to share and enjoy with everyone at the table.

The “Chopped Salad” included corn, peas, beets, wax beans, Brussels sprouts and topped with grated Queso Fresco cheese. This was no ordinary green salad; it offered several vegetables from Urban Oaks with differing textures and just a touch of spiciness. It was a delicious salad.

The “Cornmeal Fried Oysters” were served with collard greens, Jalapeño mayonnaise, Tasso ham and topped with a spicy corn relish. The oysters were crunchy on the exterior with a good sized belly that released the delicious liquor when bitten. The Tasso offered a smooth complement and sweet corn, pickle and red pepper relish was a perfect addition. The Jalapeño mayonnaise added just the correct level of spiciness.

The “Poached Lobster & Cornbread Waffle” is one of my favorite combinations in the area. It included butter-poached lobster, griddled scallions, Queso Fresco cheese topped with a brown sauce. The waffles were sweet, crispy on the exterior and moist and soft on the interior. The lobster was full of sweet buttery flavor, the scallions brought a little bitterness and the melted cheese created smoothness to the dish. The dish was finished with one of the best brown sauces north of the French Quarter.

My adventure through NOLA’S seafood continued with two other outstanding dishes. The “Shrimp & Grits” started with paprika dusted shrimp that were perfectly sautéed and paired with sliced Jalapeños to deliver a good kick. To mellow the flavors the dish contained slices of Tasso ham and all of these ingredients sat atop creamy grits. The “Griddled Scallops” were served atop a smooth and delicious celery root puree, and Chef Kardos changed the direction of a traditional scallop dish with the addition of several uncommon ingredients, strawberries and melon. The dish was further enhanced by a touch of honey, almonds, and finished with slices of speck. This was a great combination of flavors and textures. The honeydew brightened the dish and the honey brought sweetness, but I was not as excited about the strawberries.

To finish the meal, I sampled the “Chocolate & Peanut Butter Pot De Crème” that was topped with whipped cream and roasted peanuts, which was much too sweet for my palate. I was less enthusiastic about this dessert.

After several months, NOLA Oyster Bar has taken its position as one of the go-to restaurants in Fairfield County.

Really Liked

Brussels Sprouts
Poached Lobster
Shrimp & Grits
Fried Oysters
Griddled Scallops
Seafood Tower

Liked

Chopped Salad

Did Not Like

Chocolate & Peanut Butter Pot au Creme

This review was originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/9/8/nola-oyster-bar-revisiting-an-excellent-seafood-spot-in-sono.html

Los Poblanos (Norwalk) – A Little Gem with Excellent Food

Posted on August 27, 2013 by jfoodeats

Locating this little gem is a little difficult. If you are heading towards Westport on Route 1, make a right at the light where Pennzy’s Spice is located and Los Poblanos is one of the five storefronts immediately to your left. Park behind the building and enter from the rear. There are three four-person booths and a couple of tables. The walls are brightly painted adorned with regional posters and a Spanish language TV offers a little entertainment.

The menu is brightly colored with various Mexican offering. I wanted to sample Los Tacos and ordered four of them. Once delivered the first item I noticed was the amount of filling, Los Poblanos significantly fills the soft tacos. Green (cilantro) and orange (I would guess habanero) sauce accompany the tacos. The cilantro sauce was great and complemented the flavors and the orange was a little too spicy for my palate but had great flavor.

I decided to work my way from least to most spicy and started with The Carnitas (pork) taco. The cubed pork was simply sautéed and topped with diced raw onion and cilantro. The flavors were mild, and mine included a few cubes of pork fat. The addition of some on the green cilantro sauce created a great balance of flavor and very mild in heat.

The Pollo tonga (shredded chicken) taco was smothered in a red sauce that upon first bite I thought was too mild as well. But the heat of the pepper slowly arrived about 30 seconds later, no a burn, but a mild reminder that this was Latin food. The addition of cilantro again balanced the flavors.

Looking to increase the heat level I moved to the Chorizo (Mexican sausage) taco. I was a little surprised about two items, the presentation and the heat level. Normally chorizo is sliced to create circles, but Los Poblanos served their sliced in a julienne. Likewise the heat level was much less than expected, I would characterize these as a very mild chorizo but the flavor was outstanding. The taco was topped with sliced and diced onion

The last taco was the Al pastor (spicy pork). At last I found some spiciness. The same pork that I enjoyed in the Carnita was sautéed and then tossed with a spicy red sauce. This created a great depth of flavors with a good level of spiciness. This was my favorite taco of the four.

Overall I was impressed with Los Poblanos and look forward to returning and enjoy additional options.

La Sorpresa y Mas (Norwalk) – Colorful but Disappointing

Posted on August 24, 2013 by jfoodeats

I ventured for a quick lunch to see if all of the recommendations I have heard recently were deserved. As I approached this very off the beaten path location, which is more residential than commercial, the first item I noticed was the bright colors of the exterior. Parking is limited for about 10 cars and a little maneuvering is required.

Once inside, to the left there is a bakery with a hot salad bar (not self-served) and to the right is a dining area with ten to fifteen tables. Two HDTV oversee the dining area and during my visit they each were broadcasting an international soccer game.

The menu is as colorful as the exterior, full of a variety of Columbian cuisine. For some reason I was less than adventurous and ordered the Churrasco (medium rare), a grilled steak with Chimichurri sauce. It was served with arroz (rice), tostones (green plantains), frijoles (beans) and ensalada (salad).

The server brought a bowl of bean soup instead of the salad. The flavor of the soup was full of smokiness and with loads of al dente beans and pork, the soup was delicious.

The steak arrived while I was only halfway through the soup and my initial reaction was not positive. From the outside there was a lot of fat and grizzle and there were several slits through the main section, probably to check for the doneness. After a few bites my initial thoughts were confirmed, this was a fairly weak piece of meat, about 40% grizzle/fat, and it was medium-rare in certain spots and medium-well in others. On a positive note, the Chimichurri was outstanding. The rice and plantains were delivered as I was halfway through the steak. I liked the rice which brought just a bit if sweetness but the plantains were incredibly bland and boring.

Overall, I was not overly impressed with the food at La Sorpresa y Mas, the service was friendly but very disjointed. I blame myself a little for not ordering one of the dishes the regulars were enjoying at other tables. It is worth a revisit in the future but I am not rushing back.

61 Cedar St – Norwalk, CT 06854 – (203) 838-9809

Bodega Taco Bar (Darien) – Outstanding Tacos

Posted on August 10, 2013 by jfoodeats

A quick trip to Bodega Taco Bar in Darien was a great choice for lunch.

As I waited I ordered the original guacamole that is “Slapped to Order.” It arrived with a basket of house-made tortilla chips. The guacamole was delicious, but a little citrusy for my taste. It was chunky, with a good array of textures from the avocado, tomato, and jalapeños. The chips were more than enough for the portion size.

It’s lunch so Tacos were the choice. The question was…how many and which? I decided on four and chose one from each food group. I ordered (1) “Baja” – panko crusted mahi mahi, pico de gallo, lemon aioli, (2) “Cochinita Pibil” – slow cooked pork, refried beans, pickled red onion, cilantro, (3) “Crispy Korean Chicken” – red pepper paste, Asian slaw and (4) “Argentino” – hanger steak asada, charred onion, salsa de chili de arbol, cilantro.

In order of my preference. The Baja was my favorite. The crispy fried fish was fantastic, and the toppings made this a perfectly delightful, bright flavored taco. Close behind was the Argentina, in which the flavors were the opposite of the Baja. They were rich and deep and earthy which the cilantro popping the flavors. I had no idea what to expect with the Korean Chicken but the menu should add the word spicy somewhere to give a head’s up. This taco delivered quite a kick to the unaware palate. Once I knew about the heat, bite #2 was more enjoyable, but there was a drop from the first two in my preference. Again, my least favorite was the pork. It may be me as I am probably the only person I know that is not a fan of the pork at Bodega or Valencia. I find it very bland. I should learn to travel down a different path in all of my future visits.

I really like the vibe, the décor, the servers, everything about Bodega. It will definitely make the power rotation.

Haute Dish (MSP) – More Mac N’ Cheese Please

Posted on August 1, 2013 by jfoodeats

Almost three years ago I visited and wrote that Haute Dish showed good potential; so it was time to return. Again, after my recent meal where I thought one dish was fantastic and the other was an over-thought disappointment, I believe the “good potential” opinion still stands.

The interior is speakeasy modern with a large portrait at the entrance welcoming the guests. The long bar extends along the right wall and a long row of banquettes along the left with a separate dining area in the rear. Service was excellent. My server was both knowledgeable and opinionated. As much as I wanted to order the General Tso’s Sweetbreads (as it turns out I ordered the sweetbreads at the previous visit), he kept nudging me to the Mac n’ Cheese, which was a great recommendation. I wish he would have steered me away from the burger, but I was pretty determined to give this burger a try.

The “MAC N’ CHEESE” was not your mom’s green box or Velveeta variety. I cannot remember the last time I ordered this comfort food in a restaurant, but I assumed a plated bowl with a heaping mound of steaming pasta, engulfed in sauce and topped with some sprinkled breadcrumbs. What arrived was a nicely plated horizontal interpretation of this classic dish. The jumbo rigatoni shaped pasta was perfectly prepared to al dente and topped with King Crab, celery and truffle oil. The incredibly smooth cheese sauce was primarily Taleggio cheese and it was delightful. There were several chunks of sweet crab that were perfectly prepared. The kitchen then added a little unmentioned ingredient, roe. Each time one burst in my mouth it added a great textural sensation. The celery, scallions and bread crumbs added a little zip and crunch. This rendition of MAC N’ CHEESE was delicious…I may need to begin a search for other great offerings.

When the “FLAVOR COUNTRY BURGER” arrived all I could do was stare. It looked like a culinary totem pole. Granted the menu states “with everything, no temps or substitutions ever!” but this was layer upon layer of toppings. Included in the tiers were pickles, tomato, cheese, mushrooms, onions, bacon with mayo-horseradish…all served on a buttery brioche bun. Accompanying the burger was a small portion of fries. The meat was delicious (although a little over-salted), the kitchen hand formed the meat to retain the looseness of the grind and the flavor was reminiscent of excellent grass fed meat. Unfortunately the toppings were just too many; they overwhelmed the great meat flavor. Each was delicious in its own right (I especially liked the spicy pickles) but there are times when too much is too much and this was one of those occasions. The brioche bun was one of the best I have ever tasted and was a perfect choice for the meat. The fries were horrible. They were dense, almost hard in texture, not from being over- or undercooked, and the kitchen topped the fries with either a paprika or a different red pepper spice, which I did not like at all.

Overall I still believe that Haute Dish has potential but they need to know when to stop. The Mac & Cheese was a beautiful combination of textures and flavors and a brilliant interpretation while the burger was just too much and did not work at all. The fries?…all but a couple went back to the kitchen.

The Pig Ate My Pizza (MSP) – No He Didn’t…I DID

Posted on July 28, 2013 by jfoodeats

I was disappointed when I heard that one of my favorite restaurants, Travail, had closed. This was an incredibly creative group of chefs that consistently amazed me with their talent. But then I discovered that they were just modifying their approach. Of course the normal order of progression is moving from crudos, braises and burgers to pizzas, it is a perfect transition. Happens all the time. I questioned by sanity during the 12 mile drive that took 40 minutes, but my desire to see what this culinary group were cooking far surpassed the movement of Mickey’s hands on my watch.

I sat at the bar and the bartendress pushed the Cider Ham Rules pie pretty hard to all the guests but I first wanted a carnivore’s delight so the first pizza was the Piggie Pie. Normally served with a thick brioche crust, I opted for the thin-crusted alternative. The toppings included large slices of prosciutto, pepperoni and lots of sausage hidden under the cheeses. The flavors were outstanding. Each was delicious on its own with the saltiness and spiciness of the meats perfectly complementing the sweetness of the tomato sauce. Not to be outdone, the chefs at TPAMP used a cheese blend of provolone, parmesan, Asiago, and Gouda (plus one that I forgot) that created an incredibly delicious combination. But the kitchen still had a few tricks and flavors up their sleeves, they finished the pie with a little basil oil and then perked the flavors with a few baby oregano leaves. And let’s not forget the crust. It brought great flavor and texture.

With one down and my hunger not yet fully satisfied I acquiesced and ordered the Cider Ham Rules. Fortunately the restaurant was more filled at this point and the timeframe before #2 arrived was sufficient to regain some internal space. When it arrived, it was not as expected; it was more fully covered than the Piggie Pie. Adorning this pie were compressed apples, a fried apple chip, waffle fries, oyster mushrooms, and various cuts and renditions of pork. As much as I wanted to love this version to the same degree as the first, the sweet-savory combination left the sweet as an “also-ran” component. The flavors of both renditions of the apples were completely lost and the waffle fries were a cute addition but from a taste perspective, not to my liking. The rich, deep flavors of the pulled pork, chunks of pork, hoisin sauce and oyster mushrooms were outstanding and absolutely delicious. I thoroughly enjoyed the savory aspects of this pie, but not as a sweet-savory combo.

The staff and service were still Travail quality perfection. Knowledgeable, friendly, always available for a question and were spot on in each aspect of the service. Minneapolis now has another great pizza joint (the fourth on my list), when four years ago there were none.

The Juicy Lucy @ 5-8 Bar (MSP) is a Big 0-0 for Me

Posted on July 27, 2013 by jfoodeats

OK, maybe it’s me, but I just don’t get it. After several discussions and disagreements in the office on where to enjoy the best Juicy Lucy, I ventured back to 5-8 Club to see if I could be convinced that their burger was a great choice. This may be heresy to some, but this was not a meal that would make me rush back, in fact, it is more a DNR.

Let’s get to the positives. I think the joint is an incredibly friendly neighborhood watering hole. It is separated into two rooms, one with a bar and the other entirely tables, with the walls teeming with relics of the 40s 50s and 60s. I sat as a solo diner amongst single dads taking their young kids out for a bite, elderly couples splitting French fries and soccer moms racing to that open table. I was now firmly ensconced in pure Americana…a smile came to my face.

The waitress arrived, an energetic and incredibly hard-working high school / college teenager working for car money, college money or just entertainment money. She was great. The menu stated that the JL was 8-ounces, a pretty good sized patty, so my order was a JL with bacon and American, some fried onion straws, which I adore, a hot dog and an Arnold Palmer.

The fried onion straws were excellent. A huge mound of thinly sliced, deep-fried onions (enough for multiple guests) was crispy and perfectly salted. They were so good that there was no need to dip in any ketchup.

Good news over…

Now let me be honest about my view on the JL…the patty was just horrible. There is absolutely nothing positive I can say about the meat. First the size…the menu says “8 ounces” and I would be hard pressed to believe it was more than five ounces. Then the kitchen cooks the doneness to greater than super well done, bordering on incinerated, losing all chance that it will retain any juiciness. And the flavor was tasteless. So the burger meat receives the trifecta, three zeros on taste, preparation and size. And the bacon was a perfect complement to the burger, two meager slices of overcooked bacon. On a slightly positive note, I did like the American cheese, really well melted and with just a touch of pungency. The pickles slices were also a positive; the roll was a pretty basic, what was to be expected in a bar.

Now onto the hot dog. For full disclosure, I am a fan of a Kosher, natural casing dog so this was definitely not in my comfort zone. The hot dog was in the same category as the burger; an oversized, badly prepared “Ball Park” imitation; it was barely warm, and also served on a basic package roll. One bite and I was finished.

With so many other choices for great burgers in MSP, I would be hard pressed to place this on a top-25 places to have a burger.

Piccolo (MSP) – Food was Great; Staff was Dispicable Thee

Posted on July 15, 2013 by jfoodeats

I was incredibly excited when I finally secured a reservation at Doug Flicker’s Piccolo Restaurant. I entered with great anticipation for enjoying the creative genius of one of the most highly regarded chefs in the Twin Cities. The restaurant is small by comparison to many in the area, the front room seats approximately 24 guests primarily in banquettes that fill two of the walls. There is a large painting plus a mirror overlooking the area creating a warm, yet open environment.

The menu requires a little explaining. It is broken into five sections, with three choices in each. You can choose the five-course fixed price culinary adventure for $52 (one from each of the sections) or choose from any of the options to create your own individual experience. The portions are incredibly small, borderline Lilliputian; I would guesstimate a few bites would finish each of the dishes. The server does make mention of the size but even with that advanced notice I found them even smaller than I assumed.

I decided on three-courses that included (a) Soft poached duck egg with hazelnuts, smoked bacon, foie gras and pine cone syrup; (b) Dungeness crab “parfait” with hearts of palm, French breakfast radishes, crab butter and sea salt; and (c) Braised pork cheeks with figs, truffles, potato and lardo (different than the on-line menu).

As I waited, the server brought four slices of pumpernickel and some butter that was topped with a touch of sea salt. The bread was room temperature, not warmed prior to delivery, disappointing that such a simple step is missed. The flavors of the bread and butter with the touch of the sea salt were very good.

The duck egg arrived. From a visual point of view it was beautiful, but I was surprised there was no aroma; after one bite I understood. The egg was served at room temperature. I will give them the benefit of the doubt and that was the intent, but when I order a poached egg, I assume it would be served warm. When opened, the egg exuded the creamy yolk, but there was no seasoning at all on the egg; it was a bland, cold, previously poached egg. The hazelnuts were a good complement for both its texture and flavor but the miniature rasher of bacon was the only ingredient that I really enjoyed. This was a badly executed dish.

I was a little concerned about all of the positive press after this introduction, but the next two courses changed my view completely.

The “Parfait” was fantastic. A creamy custard lined the bottom of the jar with several pieces of Dungeness crab sitting atop and then a few slices of hearts of palm and radishes finished the glass-enclosed presentation. The dish was a decadent interpretation of creaminess and flavor. Dungeness is one of my favorite varieties of crab and this was perfectly prepared, moist, with delicious flavor; the chef did this mollusk justice. Not as pleasing was the crab butter and radish combination. I loved the breakfast radishes, it was a first for me, but the crab butter was very off-putting to the palate and reduced the enjoyment.

The “pork cheeks” was delicious. It was not multiple “cheeks,” but a small piece of a single cheek. Sitting next to the cheek was a small cube of potato and sitting atop were two small sections of the fig. All of these items were nestled in a creamy sauce. The combination of these ingredients was divine. The cheek was moist, flavorful, succulent and full of richness. The sweetness of the figs was a perfect complement and the texture of the potato added yet another level. Then the creaminess of the sauce offered and incredibly soothing addition. I only wish it was larger as this was one of the best dishes I have ever tasted. As an aside, I struggled to find the truffles or the lardo, but this was delicious with or without.

Unfortunately the service and staff were the polar opposite to the brilliance of some of the preparations. As much as my server was pleasant, the lightning pace of the meal was unacceptable. The three courses were delivered in less than thirty minutes. There was no time to savor, no time to contemplate, no time to reflect and no time to relax. It was get him in and get him out. I mentioned this to the server, who checked the tickets to confirm my point, and he apologized, stating it was his fault. This was the professional response.

Then my overall dining experience was completely destroyed. When I mentioned this to the manager (he approached the table), instead of a professional response or an offer for a relaxing cup of coffee or dessert, he confronted me, and his final words were, “I will just refund your money so you never have to come back.” His actions were totally uncalled for, entirely unprofessional and completely out of line. There is no reason for me or anyone else to be treated in this manner.

As much as the last two courses were some of the best cuisine I have ever experienced, there are too many great restaurants in the Twin Cities to eat…places who treat their guests with respect, and who understand good customer service. Piccolo’s staff needs some significant training before I would recommend or return.

Eat Street Social (MSP) – Great Potential

Posted on July 13, 2013 by jfoodeats

Located on the north side of West 26^th Street just west of Nicollet Avenue South, Eat Street Social is a very cool and hip restaurant with a good deal of potential. There is limited parking behind the restaurant and if you cannot find a spot in their lot, the parking is difficult. Once inside you are met by an eclectic staff who were extremely friendly and freely offered opinions on their favorite items. Most importantly they did not try to steer you to the most expensive items on the menu.

The interior is very well done with a small dining area in the back right quarter with a small bar, and a large u-shaped bar and dining room with small stage to the left. Through the latter is a patio that contains both a lattice-covered pergola plus additional tables with umbrellas. The chairs are comfortable plastic strapped wrap-around and seat approximately 50 guests.

The server informed me that the night’s Grilled House-Made Sausage was pork, potato and rosemary. The dish was served with whole grain mustard and buttered and grilled slices of baguette. I ordered this for my appetizer plus the Wild Acres Pan Seared Duck Breast with rainbow carrots, white bean puree, sugar snap peas, pea tendrils and topped with lemon plum vinaigrette for my entree.

When the two sausages arrived they looked different from each other. I sliced one (it was the potato version described) and it was delicious with a good spice level and a moderately dense texture. Unfortunately both the potato and the rosemary were overwhelmed by the other bold flavors. From a textural point of view the small dices of potato softened the texture of the sausage. When I sliced into the second link, it contained an abundance of diced tomatoes and no potatoes. The flavor and texture were also very different; a milder rendition from the potato version with a slightly denser texture, not benefiting from the diced potato. I asked both the server and the MOD what type the second was and the former was surprised that there were two varieties and the MOD told me there was only one type of sausage that evening. Sorry but there were two variety. Nonetheless I enjoyed both varieties, especially with a little dab of the whole grain mustard.

The Pan Seared Duck was an interesting dish. It was as if two different dishes were randomly combined. Was this a salad with the duck as the accompaniment or vice versa? The salad was composed of grape tomatoes, sugar peas, roasted garlic, several varieties of baby carrots, onions and chestnuts. The flavors and textures were outstanding, and the addition of the chestnuts was brilliant. The inclusion of the white bean puree was also a great idea; it added an earthy and creamy element. Unfortunately it was over-dressed, which detracted from the enjoyment. This salad, by itself would make for a great vegetarian entrée. The duck was nicely seared, finished to a medium rare and then topped with the lemon plum vinaigrette, which was more lemon than plum. The dressing brought citrusy back-notes to and complemented the richness of the duck meat. Unfortunately my duck breast was tough and the white tendon was still present throughout the breast, creating a difficult cutting and chewing experience. It is rare that I enjoy the salad much more than the protein, and this was one of those times.

Service was delightful. My server was spot on, water glass was constantly topped off and she checked in after the appropriate time. My only comment would be that neither the server nor the MOD knew that there were two different sausages on my plate and neither offered to check with the kitchen. When I discussed my thoughts on the duck with the manager he was extremely pleasant and we had a pleasant conversation about the dish.

Overall this was a very good restaurant with great potential. I would definitely return to try other dishes.

Overall – “Strong 7”

Mama’s Boy – Southern Hospitality in South Norwalk

Posted on June 27, 2013 by jfoodeats

After several visits to Mama’s Boy Southern Table and Refuge in SONO I can highly recommend this restaurant for its food and ambiance. Fairfield County native and owner Greer Fredericks, and her business partner Ami Dorel, bring a southern feel to the décor, and Chef Scott Ostrander is making his mark on the menu with some great dishes.

The “BBQ Pulled Pork” contained great texture and flavors that were accented with a touch of spiciness from the jalapeño corn pancakes. The Mama’s Bourbon Q sauce added a deep rich element to the dish.

The “Charleston Crab Cakes” were served alongside a medley of tomato, corn, butterbeans, and lemon herb aioli. The cylinder-shaped cakes were full of crab and the accompanying vegetables were a perfect complement for sweetness and texture.

The menu also offers “Deviled Eggs” with house-smoked Tasso, and okra pickles. The Tasso added smokiness to the creamy yolks, and the major difference between Mama’s and others is the pickled okra. Combining a piece of okra with the deviled eggs was like no other Deviled Egg I have ever tasted. The “Salt ‘n Vinegar Fried Oysters” were fried perfectly and were delicious with the addition of the vinegar.

The Soup & Salad contains two great options. The “BLT Salad” was delicious, but not a reduced calorie recipe. It included fried green tomato, candied bacon, artisan lettuce, and topped with a buttermilk-herb dressing. The combination of the sweet and peppery bacon, the crispy fried green tomato (a thicker slice would have been preferred) and the sweet field lettuces created a delicious salad.

The “Shrimp and Grits” is becoming their signature dish and it just kept getting better. On my latest visit the appetizer-sized dish contained three U-21 southern white shrimp, sitting atop Fall’s Mill grits, topped with house-smoked Tasso, spring onion, and finished with pimento cream gravy. The shrimp are sweet and the grits were fantastic; the texture was creamy with a little crunch.

True to southern cuisine, Mama’s offers its version of the traditional chicken ‘n waffles. “The Little Yardbird” includes pieces of hens that were first marinated in pickle juice and hot sauce and then deep fried. The result was an incredibly moist meat with flavor and texture from the crispy coating. Paired with the waffles, bourbon infused NY sorghum (I prefer a sweeter, more maple-y sauce) and braised greens.

SONO now has catfish on the menu. Mama’s Boy serves its “Corn Bread Crusted Catfish” with Carolina Anson Mills rice, okra, Vidalia onion and smoked tomato. The filet was moist on the interior and crispy on the exterior while the corn bread coating gave a sweet component to the fish. The sauce was delicious and contained dices of both okra and additional tomato; the rice was a soft textural complement to the dish. I added a few drops of hot sauce to give the dish a little kick.

The “Mushroom and Dumplings” is actually “potato gnocchi, exotic mushroom blend, herbs, and a sunny side farm egg.” The potato gnocchi were sautéed to achieve a crispy exterior and then combined with Mitaki, Oyster and Cremini mushrooms. Sitting atop was a fried egg, awaiting the release of its creamy yolk, which added a great flavor and creaminess when released. The seasoning was slightly off on the dish I sampled with the gnocchi under-seasoned, a little too much vinegar in the mushrooms and a little too much salt sprinkled on top. This is definitely a re-try for my next visit.

And save room for one of the best desserts, Mama’s Boy’s Pecan Cheese Cake. A creamy wedge of moist cheesecake was accented with a sweet topping of maple and pecans. This was a perfect way to end the evening.

Overall Mama’s Boy Southern Table and Refuge is an excellent choice in SONO. The food is creative, inventive and offers a new cuisine to the area and the atmosphere is relaxed, fun and very southern.

Mama’s Boy Southern Table & Refuge

19 North Water Street – South Norwalk, CT – (203) 956-7171

Really Liked:

BBQ Pulled Pork
Charleston Crab Cakes
BLT Salad
Shrimp & Grits
Little Yardbird
Pecan Cheesecake

Liked:

Salt ‘n Vinegar Fried Oysters
She Crab Soup
Corn Bread Crusted Catfish

Needs a revisit:

Mushroom and Dumplings
John’s Island Frogtown Stew

A more detailed review appeared in http://www.ctbites.com at

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/6/23/mamas-boy-southern-table-refuge-southern-in-sono.html

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying