Barrique Bistro & Wine Bar (Stamford) – Delicious Bistro Fare

Posted on March 18, 2014 by jfoodeats

Barrique Bistro and Wine Bar opened several months ago in the location that formerly housed Jean Pierre restaurant and continues to offer incredibly delicious bistro fare, plus other southern European cuisine. The décor is relaxed and reminds you of dining in a bistro on the streets of Paris.

The “Escargots” with garlic butter were encased in their shells, brimming with garlic butter, served with a traditional escargot holder and a small fork. Removing the escargot from the shell was difficult as the escargot were very deep within and I finally decided to cut the shell in half. Once removed, the escargot was beautifully prepared, mild in flavor and were complemented by the garlicky butter, which was not overpowering. This was a nice way to begin Le Diner.

Another fantastic appetizer was the “Wild Mushroom Risotto” with white trufﬂe oil. The Arborio rice was perfectly prepared and maintained just a small amount of “bite” on the interior. There was a nice selection of mushrooms, including cremini and oyster that added earthiness, and the reduced stock was creamy and delivered a delicious complement to the rice. I highly recommend this dish.

The roasted “Organic Chicken” was served atop a mélange of baby arugula, fingerling potatoes, cherry tomato, and finished with a drizzle of Balsamic. The chicken was crisp on the exterior and wonderfully moist on the interior. The sweet tomatoes offset the peppery arugula and the balsamic added a fantastic layer of additional flavor. This is a great roasted chicken. The “Organic Salmon” was a simple and pleasant rendition with artichokes, fingerling potatoes, carrots, and wild mushrooms. The large filet is more than enough for a hungry appetite and he accompanying ingredients made for a bright a delightful dish.

The “Skirt Steak” was served with cipollini onions, wild mushrooms, charred asparagus, and finished with a Bordelaise sauce. The steak was a large portion (it filled the entire diameter of the dinner plate) was prepared to my requested medium-rare (another steak at the table ordered medium and serve very rare needed a re-fire). The steak was rich in flavor, and the Bordelaise sauce was delicious with the onions and mushrooms and the deep flavors of the meat were paired perfectly with the sweet onions.

For dessert the “Crème Brulée” and the “Chocolate Mousse Cake” were both delightful. The Brulee was incredibly creamy, and the crisped thin sugar topping was the perfect proportion. The cake, from Matthew’s Bakery was outstanding. Thick layers of cake and a fair amount of filling were fantastic. Both of these desserts are highly recommended.

Overall Barrique Bistro and Wine Bar is a relaxing restaurant, offering delicious bistro cuisine. Bon Appetit.

La Fresca (Minneapolis) – Outstanding Hidden Gem

Posted on March 15, 2014 by jfoodeats

Located on South Grand Avenue just north of 48^th Street La Fresca is the epitome of the local hidden gem. When you enter under the bright colored awning you will notice the long bar to the right and the dining area to the left. The glass enclosed kitchen is in the rear of the room. At 615 on a Wednesday night the restaurant was already two-thirds filled and by 645 there were few of the 35-40 seats remaining. People now know that La Fresca is offering delicious food at reasonable prices. The dining room is bright with large watermelon prints adorning one wall, a Mexican Indian painting the rear wall and seated on shelves along the left wall are statues of wooden Mariachi bands including a few skeleton renditions. The space is bright and fun.

I ordered the CEVICHE DE HUACHINANGO for my appetizer. The slightly cured snapper was accented with yellow tomatoes, lime, jalapeño peppers, jicama, sea salt, and finished with avocado mousse and ancho chili oil. The mixture sat on three purple-corn tortillas. I was not sure whether to lift the tortillas or try to cut with a knife and fork, so I did both. A quick bite was a little messy when the tortilla broke into a couple of pieces, so I moved to the knife and fork. This seemed out of place but worked well. The flavors were outstanding. The snapper was lightly cured, maintained its mild flavor. The other ingredients delivered balanced acidity and spice from the ancho chili oil, and the guacamole mousse on added a little creaminess and the cilantro added another flavor profile.

For my entrée I decided on the LECHON, medallions of herb crusted pork tenderloin served over a combination of ayocote black bean mole sauce, fennel, potatoes, asparagus, smoked bacon, roasted poblano peppers, pickled habanero onions, and micro cilantro. The four medallions were perfectly cooked to medium rare, just a touch of pink on the interior. The flavors of the vegetable mélange was outstanding, balanced between the salty bacon, a touch of heat from the peppers and the crunch of the asparagus. This was a fantastic dish.

Overall, La Fresca is a great find, serving outstanding nouvelle Mexican cuisine in a relaxed and fun environment.

Coup d’État (Minneapolis) – Outstanding in Uptown

Posted on March 13, 2014 by jfoodeats

Cou[ d’Etat opened two months ago and is already serving delicious cuisine. Located on the corner of Girard Avenue South and Lagoon Avenue across from the independent movie house, this newly reconstructed building offers numerous rooms, a hip and vibrant vibe, several bars and interior seating for about 200 people and when the weather warms, another 100+ guest can enjoy the cuisine al fresco. No expense was spared by the people that brought MSP Borough Restaurant in the design with tin bars, leather covered chairs, dark woods, several different chandeliers and an open stainless steel kitchen. Yet the prices on the menu and the quality and the size of the portions reflect a focus on high quality with reasonable prices.

When I entered the restaurant at 600PM on a Monday evening the bar was already 50% full and for the next 45 minutes I noticed people arriving for dinner while others, mid-20’s, leaving for their next stops. The restaurant is both an after-work meeting place for a quick drink and a dinner destination. The crowd on my visit was more 20’s and 30’s versus their parents and this created a very youthful, hip vibe to complement to décor.

The opening room contains a large u-shaped bar that seats 24 surrounded by high tables along the windows for another 30, booths to the side for 50 another bar overlooking the kitchen in the rear for another 10 guests. Eclectic chandeliers and soft globes light the main room. There is another huge room in the rear plus additional space on the second floor. The interior is massive. A large chalkboard hangs on the wall above the kitchen displaying the menu.

The menu on their website is fairly accurate, although some ingredients may vary and some of the prices might be different but it will give a good indication of the cuisine. The server told me the chefs were all in their thirties, had some local experience. From the menu, it appears they tend to lean towards adding a spicy component to most of the dishes and are creative in blending various cuisines.

For a first course I ordered the “Gnocchi.” This mildly dense version delivered a good texture, but just missed great with just a tad on the gummy side. They were crisped on the exterior and nestled in a pool of brown butter that contained a good amount of garlic, and topped with chives, grated parmesan and the surprise ingredient, black truffles. I was skeptical about truffles in a $12 pasta dish, but they were there and added their delicious earthiness. The size was a little large for an appetizer and a little small for an entrée, but for the price the flavors, textures and presentation was fantastic.

For an entrée I ordered the “Pork Osso bucco.” It is served with orange, fennel, fregola and turnips. This would be better described as a pork shank on a menu as it was an enormous piece of meat. I asked for a sharp knife and the server gave me one but told me there should be no need for a sharp knife and she was correct. In fact there was no need for any knife as the meat was so tender and well roasted that it fell off the bone. The flavors were great with a good spiciness from “lots of pepper.” The orange gave a nice citrusy background to the meat but the fennel was non-existent. The fregola was delicious and I told the server the kitchen should add more to the plate since it was a meagerly portion given the size of the shank. The three halves of the turnip were sweet and delicious as well. I was looking for some textural contrast, the on-line menu states marcona almonds, and I think the chef should reconsider that or change the grain to one with a crunchy exterior. This was a fantastic shank, one of the best.

And the service was even better than the meal. My server was spot on in every aspect of the meal.

Overall this was one of the best meals I have enjoyed in Minneapolis and for the price and atmosphere this should definitely be a date night destination if anyone is thinking of dinner and a movie.

Figlio (St. Louis Park, MN) – Incredibly Disappointing

Posted on March 13, 2014 by jfoodeats

After so many great meals in the Minneapolis area, I knew my luck would eventually run out. For some reason I changed my normal process of choosing a restaurant, did not check my normal sources and chose Figlio for dinner. As much as the décor was cool and hip, the atmosphere vibrant, the server energetic and the crowd streaming in, the food was the trifecta of unappetizing food.

After being promptly seated, the server arrived, described the specials and guided me to less food than I thought I wanted to order. The server brought over a basket of bread, four baguette slices that were slightly warmed and the server placed some olive oil and a few drops of balsamic vinegar on the plate. It is important to eat the bread while it is warm as when it cools, it hardens quickly and approaches unappetizing.

My appetizer, the “Beet Salad” is described on the menu to include butter lettuce, hazelnut, pickled shallots with sour cream and horseradish vinaigrette. This was like no other beet salad I have ever seen, it was a mound of butter lettuce with the others ingredients on top, and the beets were cubes of several varieties tossed with the other ingredients. The beets ranged from sweet to tasteless to bitter, the shallots were overly pungent, not really pickled, the lettuce was bitter and the vinaigrette overwhelmed all the other flavors. The hazelnuts were completely lost. There was not one ingredient other than a few cubes of the light colored beets that were tasty. Each of the components was unappealing and together they were borderline inedible. I had a few bites and pushed aside.

The oven “Roasted Chicken” was served with roasted eggplant, tomato jam, Israeli couscous, samfaina, and fresh herbs. The roasted chicken was a single chicken breast, cut in half to give the appearance of a half a chicken. It was vastly overcooked and dry, and the exposed meat was even drier than the interior, probably from over roasting compounded by sitting under the heat lamps after being cut in half. The skin was flaccid and lacked any crispness, how the kitchen accomplished this is a mystery. It was completely inedible. The couscous was cooked to the proper doneness but it was cool when served. The samfaina was covered with two slices of melted supermarket quality cheese, without any rhyme or reason. After two bites of the chicken and one bite of each of the accompaniments, it was time to move on. I sent it back.

The server suggested the pizza and I reluctantly chose the “Sausage” with fennel sausage, grilled apple, rosemary, mozzarella, and tomato sauce. The crust was very a thin cracker crust and the toppings were very generous. The crust was horrible and tasted like flour and water. As much as I saw some fennel seeds, there was very little fennel flavor in the sausage, the cheese was tasteless and the apples did nothing to the overall composition. But a bite of the pie surprisingly delivered an overwhelming mouthful of pepper…none of the ingredients could be tasted through the abundance of pepper. I felt embarrassed not eating at least a few slices, so I suffered through this affront to pizza.

As much as the server was pleasant and informative, sometimes overly, and offered dessert “on the house” I declined and decided to cut my losses and head out. Other than the physical plant and the overly eager staff, Figlio was a complete culinary disappointment.

Matt’s Bar (Minneapolis) – Jucy Lucy in Paradise

Posted on March 11, 2014 by jfoodeats

Matts Bar is the quintessential local watering hole, everyone from the neighbor wanders over and you almost expect to see Archie Bunker discussing football with Norm. Founded in 1954, it is not the beer or the mixed drinks that brings non-locals to Matt’s, it is the allure of one of the great culinary creations of the last fifty years, the Jucy Lucy. While others may spell Jucy differently, Matt’s contends that the misspelling is symbolic of the misguided attempts to serve with inferior products. After enjoying numerous Jucy Lucies at Matt’s and other location in the Twin Cities Matt’s is definitely one of the best. As you look around the dining area, there is not a person who is not enjoying a Jucy Lucy, a traditional burger, plus a huge mound of fries.

Prepare to wait on line most nights, but when you enter the bar, you have the option of a table, booth, or grab a seat at the bar that extends the entire length of the right wall. Located at the front of the bar is a small griddle fully loaded with a maximum 12 sizzling burgers, plus a small deep fryer. The menu includes the Jucy Lucy, hamburgers, cheeseburgers, single or double, ham and cheese and grilled chicken, plus fries in two sizes, full and half.

For those who have never experienced the pleasures, and potential pains, of a Jucy Lucy, it is comprised of two patties, sealed along the edges to encase a wonderfully delicious molten cheese. They are grilled to an exterior char and placed on a basic bun. I normally choose a sing JL plus fired onions and these are no ordinary onion that are slapped on the griddle and fried, these have a secret, added ingredient, a little jolt of the grease from the deep frier, heh why not? And when ordering the fries, a half order is more than enough, I once sat next a person who asked if he could order a quarter order.

The burgers are placed on the griddle and allowed to crisp on one side before flipping. The same occurs for side two and then a small hole is cut into the top to see if the interior cheese is fully melted and allow for a little steam to escape. When finished, it is placed in a simple roll, fried onions are added and a mound of fries join paper-lined plastic “plate.”

When the burger and fries arrive, the fun begins. Do not, I repeat, do not, bite into the burger for several minutes. Those who do not head this warning with suffer the JL Burn, half on the roof of your mouth, the other half on the lips. Bide you time, enjoy a few of the delicious fries and be patient. When the time is right, take a small bite, carefully releasing the gooey cheese. There is nothing earth-shattering about the flavors, but this is a great cheeseburger with fried onions on a simple bun, and somehow it all tastes better as a stuffed creation. And one is usually not enough…on every occasion, when our group is finished with the first Jucy Lucy a second round is ordered.

Matt’s Jucy Lucy is one of my favorite renditions in MSP. It is consistently delicious, the fries are always freshly prepared, crispy and perfectly salted and the atmosphere is a relaxing neighborhood haunt.

You can’t go wrong with friends and a few Jucy Lucies at Matt’s.

Bareburger (Ridgefield) – Cool Space; Not My Favorite Burger

Posted on March 10, 2014 by jfoodeats

My colleagues at http://www.ctbites.com did an opening piece on Bareburger so it was my turn to head over and give it a try. Bareburger offers organic cuisine in a very rustic and comfortable environment. Choose from one of approximately 50 table seats or opt to sit at the bar with 5 others. The interior includes reclaimed wood and brick walls, a reclaimed metal ceiling, and metal and wood chairs, all lit by soft lights from the ceiling.

There are several beers on tap including Purple Haze, Allagash White, Two Roads, Half Full, Ommegang, Victoria Prima, Lagunitas and Brooklyn Lager. Numerous organic sodas and Kelvin Natural Slush drinks are available as a non-alcoholic option. Each table has ketchup and mustard served in cuddly bear plastic containers plus individual salt and pepper mills.

The menu includes pre-determined combinations of burgers or design your own from a large selection of meats, toppings and buns. In addition to tradition beef and turkey, you can choose lamb, wild boar, elk, bison and ostrich. Each of these meats carry a surcharge. In addition, the menu includes a few non-burger choices and on Sundays, Bareburger serves brunch with a variety of egg plates and sandwiches.

For my initial visit I ordered a beef hamburger (medium-rare) on a brioche with fried onions, cheddar cheese and Applewood smoked bacon. I was surprised that French fries were not included so I asked for a small order, plus a diet root beer.

When the platter arrived I first sampled the fries and they were delicious, crispy on the exterior and moist on the interior. I noticed that they were without any salt, so I added a touch. These were excellent fries. I took a few sips of the root beer, it had great flavor but a little on the sweet side.

I next cut the burger in half. It was cooked perfectly, a good pink interior. I sampled the meat. My first impression was that it was bland and under-seasoned and had a spongy texture. The bacon was very thick, too thick and it had very little smokiness and very little saltiness. The Cheddar cheese was melted well but was also very bland. The few fried onions also contained no seasoning. The bun lacked the buttery goodness I anticipated and was very crumbly. Overall, the burger was very disappointing. Everything was bland and completely under-seasoned.

When the bill arrived, I knew that my combination would add up but when I saw $17.25 for my bacon-cheeseburger and fries I almost felt offended. Add the soda and a tip and my tab for a burger lunch was over $25…a family of four at Bareburger for burgers and fries could cost upwards of $100. I understand everything was organic, and others may think this is a reasonable price, but I thought it was very expensive.

Ferris Acres Creamery to Open April 8th

Posted on March 9, 2014 by jfoodeats

April 8^th at 11:30…Mark your calendars

It’s getting close to that time of year ago…Ferris Hill Creamery’s 2014 opening is just around the corner. Would you believe that anyone is looking forward to eating frozen confectionery delights while being surrounded by ice, snow and the forecast calling for more wintry precipitation? But I like to think of the sunny days when you wait on line, look at the tons of flavors to choose from, place your order and enjoy the best ice cream in Connecticut.

Ferris holds special memories for me in 2013. The day before my shoulder surgery my wife and I made our final 2013 trip to Ferris Hill for a 3-scooper for me with hot fudge. Then the day after my surgery, a great friend drove to Newtown and filled her ice-filled cooler with close to twenty different 2-scoop delights and brought them to my house. For the next two weeks eating one of these containers was my evening activity and it increased the dexterity of my other arm and forced me to think out of the box on the process for eating. Why would anyone go to such lengths? The ice cream is fantastic.

Included in this little bundles of joy were the following flavors:

Ali-Oop – chocolate ice cream with fudge swirls and brownie bits;

Bada Bing – chocolate almond ice cream with chocolate chunks and Bing cherries;

Campfire – vanilla ice cream with fudge swirls, graham cracker pieces, and mini-marshmallows;

Cherry Vanilla – vanilla ice cream with maraschino cherries;

Cow Trax© – vanilla ice cream with swirls of peanut butter and caramel, with mini-chocolate chips;

Elvis’ Dream – vanilla ice cream with peanut butter, banana pieces and dark chocolate chunks;

Raspberry Swirl Chunk – vanilla ice cream with raspberry swirls and dark chocolate chunks;

Route 302 Chocolate Moo – chocolate ice cream with fudge swirls and lots of dark chocolate chunks.

So with the countdown now under one month, get ready for the trips to Newtown and Ferris Hill for the best ice cream in CT.

Lion’s Tap (Eden Prairie) – Excellent Burgers in Relaxed Setting

Posted on March 8, 2014 by jfoodeats

The Lion’s Tap is a straight forward concept, choose a couple of menu items, do it well and people will enjoy and return. It is a perfect place to grab a burger at the spur of the moment, or bring the family for an inexpensive dinner. It is a very relaxed, family-style atmosphere mixed with a bar and maintains the history of the location, that began as vegetable stand turned bar turned hamburger and beer joint.

Since 1958 when Ma Schaefer sold the bar to her niece Irene Lyons and husband Sears Lyons the restaurant has been selling hamburgers. Originally the hamburgers were made in an electric frying pan (four at a time) and sold for $.25 each. The business was sold to Lloyd Berg in 1974 and began serving French fries. Ownership was sold to his brother, Vern Berg, shortly thereafter, the kitchen was expanded and sold again three years later to Don and June Gilbert. A few months later the restaurant was again sold to Bert and Bonnie Notermann in 1977, and the name was changed to Lions Tap.

The Notermanns added their own brought in their own “secret seasoning” to the daily made individual patties plus the buns were slightly toasted on the grill. Toppings then included fresh produce, cheese, bacon and onions. With so many owners over the years, Lion’s Tap still maintains its singular focus of great burgers, fries and beer.

The menu includes basic hamburgers, fries, sodas and a full selection of craft beers. Toppings appeal to the traditional burger lover with both American and Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato, bacon, fried onions and sautéed mushrooms. Both single and double patties are available. On my visits I normally order a single bacon cheeseburger with fried onions and a side of fries. The meat has always arrived to my requested medium-rare, the strips of bacon crispy without being overcooked and the fried onions, well fried onion, and not burnt. And Lion’s Tap does deserve a special call-out for the slightly toasted bun that opens the flavor. This special seasoning adds just a tang of spice to the meat and the other ingredients are also very good. This is a simply made, delicious bacon cheeseburger. The best way to describe the crinkle cut fries is they are perfectly cooked and it is rare, if ever, that any remain on my plate.

Whether you are looking for a quick lunch with a friend or colleague or a family burger night, Lion’s Tap is my go-to burger haven in Eden Prairie.

16180 Flying Cloud Drive – Eden Prairie – MN – 952.934.5299

Open seven days per week – 11:00 am – 10:00 pm

Chops Lobster Bar (Boca Raton) – Bad Night Personified

Posted on March 7, 2014 by jfoodeats

It was an interesting visit to Chops Lobster House in Boca Raton, and it was not because everything was perfect and delicious, quite the opposite. Other than the General Manager who finally handled the situation in a brilliantly professional manner, each of the other stops in our visit were more sink-holes than successes.

Atmosphere – Oustanding. Almost a clone of the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station in NYC. Soft lighting, and a beautifully designed interior gave the impression that you were about to experience a wonderful dining experience. Each of the staff was dressed in ties and it was a delightful throwback to the NY Steak House era. I give major points to the designer of the space and the entire decor.

Food – Basically inedible. This is one of the most expensive menus you will find with entrées hovering from $25-60 in the a la carte section, but they offer a very well-priced fixed price $49 three course menu during the week. The choices on this menu are excellent and a great option if you would like a more reasonably priced dinner with smaller portions. I ordered the fixed price with French Onion Soup, the 12-oz lamb chop with a side of Brussels sprouts and mushrooms, plus the NY Cheesecake with fresh local strawberries. The soup was presented in a tureen, topped with melted cheese and the presentation was very nice. The rendition was not. The cheese was not a nutty Gruyere that I expected but was a milder combination of other cheeses and the broth lacked any depth of flavor. It was a bland interpretation. The lamb chop was plopped on the dish. Cutting this mound of meat was next to impossible and I asked if they could assist and they returned the chop to the kitchen where it separated the meat from the bone. When it returned there was a total of 2-3 ounces of meat plus an enormous bone. I then understood why my knife was struggling, it was not designed to cut bone. The meat on the filet side was excellent but a meagerly two bites and the strip side was so tough and I could not cut it with my steak knife. The Brussels sprouts were inedible, overly salted and way too much garlic. For others at the table the news was not much better. Almost all of the steaks were overcooked and I will withhold comments on a fried lobster tail. The Cheesecake was delicious (better than the chocolate cake) and was the best part of the evening.

Services – Abysmal. As much as the server was pleasant at the beginning of the meal in taking drink orders and explaining the specials, he failed miserably thereafter. The runners delivered most of the dishes to the wrong guest and we did a carousel to place the correct dish in front of the correct guest. One order of Petite Filet (requested pink inside) was delivered as a Surf and Turf. When we mentioned this to he server he argued with us that we ordered the S&T, not once, but three times. Then he told us to move the lobster tail aside and just eat the steak. Really? He finally acquiesced and re-fired the dish. Round 2 of that order arrived well-well, but everyone else was almost finished and we wanted to salvage some form of group dinner. Two of the other filets were also overcooked and one was sent back. It was a very staggered dining experience for the table. The runners constantly rushed around our table bumping my chair, I spoke to the MOD and asked him to tell the servers to stop, they continued to bump my chair and I need to tell each of them to please stop. One on them was incredibly unprofessional after this and aggressively grabbed plates from the table and gave me “that look” and then he slammed the dirty dishes into the dirty dish bin. When the server finally returned for coffee / tea orders, he only asked the people who did not send food back for their orders, neglecting the rest of the table. I struggle remembering a worse group of servers.

Management – Other than the General Manager, they were unhelpful. The people at the hostess station and the Manger on Duty nodded a lot and did nothing. Finally the General Manager stepped in (on my third visit) and she was fantastic, finally someone who cared and understood the hospitality business. She saw how badly her staff treated us, how horribly the kitchen prepared the meals and did the appropriate course of action, removed the meals from the bill. The top of the pyramid was the sole bright spot in the staff and she was fantastic.

Overall it was a horrible visit to what is supposed to be a great restaurant. Restaurants can have off nights, I understand, and how they handle the situation is important. The serving and kitchen staffs failed miserable on numerous occasions, and the only saving grace was the General Manager who I believe was truly flabbergasted in the horrific actions of so many of her staff.

Primary Food & Drink (Greenwich) – Outstanding & Creative Cuisine

Posted on March 3, 2014 by jfoodeats

Primary Food & Drink, the newest member of Master Chef Graham Elliot’s expanding restaurant group, opened in Greenwich this past December under the direction of Executive Chef and Managing Partner Merlin Verrier. The restaurant is serving some of the most innovative and imaginative interpretations of traditional recipes using unique combinations and ingredients.

With six Michelin stars in his portfolio, Chef Verrier worked under several of the great chefs in America. His culinary experience included stops in his native California, Oregon and Colorado where he was eventually noticed by James Beard Award winner Chef Jennifer Jasinski and promoted to Sous Chef at her Rioja Restaurant. His travels brought him to Chicago in 2008 where his business relationship with Chef Elliot commenced. One month after joining Chef Elliot, he was promoted to Sous Chef and a year later he was overseeing the kitchen as Chef du Cuisine where he received his first Michelin star. Chef Verrier now brings his magical cuisine to Fairfield County.

To fully appreciate Primary’s cuisine, it is important to understand the philosophy of Chefs Elliot and Verrier, who told CTbites, “We both like people thinking outside the box, a way to add something to this dish. So it’s this non-stop progression of keeping these people on their toes and not being a robot.” This mantra guides the development of the menu and in the construction of each of the dishes. They are not a repetitive series of harmonious bites, each presents a different experience in flavors and textures. Guests need to leave their preconceived notions at the door and vacate their culinary comfort zone to enjoy the complexity of Chef Verrier’s interpretations.

The “Foielipops” are a pre-cursor to the creativity of the food. These are not listed on the menu but ask your server so you can enjoy these delicacies while you look through the menu. Circles of rich and creamy foie gras mousse are trimmed with salmon colored “pop rocks.” Some will burst in your mouth and others add a sugary complement to the richness of the foie gras; this is a fun way to start the meal.

The “Deconstructed Caesar” included three mounds of gem lettuce, topped with a small Spanish anchovy filet, the middle mound sat atop the oft-mentioned “crouton Twinkie.” The crispy lettuce was complemented by a delightfully light and lemony anchioade. The Twinkie offered crunchiness plus a mild creaminess from the interior’s Parmesan cheese “cream” while the Spanish anchovies delivered just a hint of saltiness. There was the slightest accent of garlic and pepper to complete the dish. This was a very light-handed Caesar salad.

The next dish was the “Beef Tartare” and it delivered a very different profile. The flavors were accentuated by cornichons, horseradish potatoes, Dijon mustard, roasted garlic, and Worcestershire sauce and sat atop a house-made baguette. The richness of the meat was augmented by creamy sous vided egg yolks and then the chef playfully added a sour component with finely diced pickled egg whites. This was a delightful interpretation.

The “Toasted Gnocchi” were delicious. The potato gnocchi were lightened with the addition of ricotta and then crisped. They were the perfect canvas for the flavors and textures of the accompanying ingredients. Sautéed foraged mushrooms added a deep earthiness and the Parmesan Reggiano brought a mild saltiness to the dish. All of these items were nestled in a pool of brown butter that delivered a nutty component and increased the overall richness of this presentation.

We next enjoyed a wonderful “Scottish Salmon.” A flawlessly prepared filet sat atop a mélange of grains, vegetables and fruits including wild rice, puffed rice, organic freekah, Brussels sprouts, crisped salmon skin, d’anjou pear, Brussels sprout leaves and greens; finished with whole grain mustard seed caviar and mustard vinaigrette. This was one of the best salmons I have ever tasted. The fish was crispy and perfectly seasoned on the exterior, and moist and soft on the interior with a deep flavor. The sweetness of the compressed d’Anjou pear, the nuttiness of the freekah, the crunchiness of the wild rice, and the sour and spiciness of the two mustard preparations were a perfect balance to brighten this presentation.

The “Ahi Tuna” was the only dish that I was not fond of. The large filet was coated with a spice rub that included smoked paprika and chili, seared to rare and was accompanied by Plantain chips, plus a combination of hominy, mango salsa and served with whipped avocado and lime crema. The spiciness of the rub overwhelmed the tuna and the other ingredients did not complement each other.

The “Beef Stroganoff” was fantastic with a unique twist to a familiar recipe. Chef Verrier deconstructed each of the major components and then created a delicious rendition of each of the elements. The plating began with rich truffled mushroom purée, topped with crisped spätzle and a few black trumpet mushrooms, topped with a large beef filet and finished with additional black trumpet mushrooms, crème fraiche and thinly sliced pickled shallots. The filet was incredibly rich and tender and when combined with the lushness of the mushroom purée and the earthiness of the mushrooms created a delightful decadence. The spätzle lightened the dish and the pickled shallots added sour notes to balance the other ingredients.

Chef Verrier’s interpretation of “Moroccan Lamb” was outstanding and flawless in its construction and presentation. This was the best dish of the evening, and one of the best I have ever tasted. A mound of shredded lamb sat atop sweet garbanzo beans and topped with a slightly-spiced Harissa accented red cabbage slaw and a few deep-fried eggplant spears. The dish was finished with a sprinkling of orange gremolata. The lamb was marinated in yogurt and then slow roasted for hours resulting in a mild flavored, succulent, fall-off-the-bone, braised lamb. Prepared similar to “baked beans,” the sweet garbanzo beans were enriched with Merguez sausage and accompanied with a few pipings of curry yogurt to complete this North African inspired dish. This interpretation was brilliant.

For dessert we ordered a chocolate-cacophony. Included in this dish were dehydrated microwaved sponge cake, white chocolate pound cake, milk chocolate ice cream, coconut crisp, toasted peanut pound cake, peanut semi-freddo, salted caramel syrup, chocolate nougatine, and honey comb crumble. The various flavors and textures that each of the elements brought to this dish were creative and incredibly delicious.

Primary Food and Drink is an outstanding restaurant serving delicious, creative cuisine. I look forward to numerous return visits to enjoy more of Chef Verrier’s inventive presentations.

Primary Food & Drink

409 Greenwich Ave · Greenwich · CT

(203) 861-2400

Really Liked

Deconstructed Caesar
Beef Tartare
Toasted Gnocchi
Scottish Salmon
Beef Stroganoff
Moroccan Lamb
Chocolate Dessert

Liked

Foielipops

Not Fond of

Ahi Tuna

This review was originally posted on CTBites at: http://www.ctbites.com/home/2014/3/2/graham-elliots-primary-food-drink-opens-in-greenwich-outstan.html

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying