My buddies at www.ctbites.com and other food bloggers have been all over me to try Fortina in Armonk. Comment after comment have been positive (a reference to the Luigi Blanco pizza is usually included), so on a quiet afternoon I wondered to Armonk for a meeting with some NY bloggers to see why everyone was so extraordinarily positive about Fortina.

As I entered about 15 minutes before the start of my meeting, I run into two other bloggers (Food Dude and Fairfield County Foodie) hanging out and waiting for their dishes. They insisted I join them and when the food arrived, they arm-twisted me into having a couple of bites. My introduction began with the “fried potatoes” ($8) that were served with Parmesan and rosemary. The potatoes were first baked, smashed and then deep fried. They were pretty good, nothing over the top. But the pizza arrived and the Luigi Blanco was placed inches from my face, atop an empty San Marzano can…but more on that pie later.

My colleagues arrived so I thanked my buds and wandered to my table. Since the others at my table were regulars I became a willing participant as they looked through the menu and narrowed the choices. For starters they ordered the “caprese” ($15) and the “fried meatballs” ($13). Some other items were ordered but I did not sample.

The “caprese’ included heirloom tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil. It was a great combination of flavors, especially this time of year when the tomatoes are just crossing into sweet and this year’s bounty might be the best in many years. It was refreshing and the large croutons added the required crunch. On the other hand the “fried meatballs” did not live up to the press. They were served with a tomato ragu and Parmesan cheese. The crispy exterior delivered great texture but I was looking for a contrasting soft interior…and the interior of these meatballs were very dense. The major drawback, for me, was that I found them extremely salty.

The empty San Marzano tomato cans arrived, signaling that the pizzas were leaving the oven and were about to arrive. The table ordered three, “The Luigi Bianco” ($21), the “tenderoni” ($15), and the “san genarro” ($16).

Two of these were over the top brilliant. My favorite was the “The Luigi Bianco,” topped with Burrata, robiolona, Parmesan, and a few swaths of black truffle ($21). Resembling a zebra with its stark whiteness accented with 2-3 stripes of pureed truffle, this ranks as one of the best pizzas I have ever eaten. The crust was perfect, light, airy, with a buttery quality not found in any other crust in the area. And the black truffle was beyond delicious. The other pizza extravaganza was the “tenderoni,” that starts with a simple rendition of tomatoes, spicy sopressata, and Mozzarella cheese, but Fortina takes this creation in a different direction with the addition of a little chili oil and honey. The key to this pie was the honey…the interplay of the spiciness of the sopressata versus the sweetness of the honey was brilliant. The “san gennaro” was really good with a simple combination of sweet sausage, peppers, onion, and sesame.

Overall I found the pizzas at Fortina some of the best I have ever eaten and easily top 3 if compared to those in southern Fairfield County.

I heard a lot about Lago Tacos and decided to give the new Lyndale location a try. Located on Lyndale South the restaurant has plenty of seating surrounding two large bars plus tables surrounding the bars as well as the back room.

The menu is divided into several sections.

I ordered the “Sweet Corn Cakes with Grilled Shrimp” to eat while I looked through the entrées.

This was one of the best dishes I have eaten in a long time. Three perfectly fried corn cakes, each topped with diced sweet tomatoes and red onion, a swath of crema, a thin slice of avocado and a grilled shrimp, all sitting in a pool of salsa verde. The corn cake was sweet with a slight crunch. The shrimp were dusted with pepper and then perfectly cooked, the diced tomato was sweet while the crema and avocado delivered a smoothing aspect. The latter was required since the salsa verde delivered a good level of spiciness. Together this was outstanding.

I asked the bartender if could order a combination platter of tacos and he said I could but it was a little more expensive. I ordered a Walleye, a steak ad a chicken tiki with a side of black beans.

My expectations were high given the appetizer. Unfortunately the tacos were not in the same league as the corn cakes. My basic criticism was the tortillas. I found their taste was bitter and fought with the fillings. Likewise I found the filling delivered differing textures, but the flavors were lacking.

The Walleye was the best of the three. What made this taco better than the other two was the fish. It was lightly crusted and fried. It was topped with a little spicy sauce, red onion, lettuce, tomato. The twin tortillas were filled to the brim. Nothing in the toppings was memorable. The Chicken Tiki included the same toppings as the Walleye minus the spicy sauce. In addition to the lack of flavor in the toppings, the texture of the chicken was between shredded and mashed, very weird and unpleasant texture. Likewise it was dry. If not for the added sauce this might have been inedibly dry. It again was filled to the top of the tortillas. My least favorite was the steak taco. It was barely half filled and was served with raw onion, cilantro, a slice of avocado and a little Queso cheese. The steak contained just a hint of spice and was served well-done. With only half the tortilla filled the overwhelming flavor, unfortunately was the ill-flavored tortillas.

I went to Lago Tacos expecting a wonderful Mexican experience. The corn cakes with shrimp met that expectation, but the tacos fell significantly short of delicious.

World of Beer opened in Stamford and is marketed as a dream for people who love beers. The chain now stretches from Reston, VA to this newest location and by offering a tremendous selection of beers, wines, cocktails and bar food, plus numerous TVs and live entertainment this could be a great way to spend time with friends and family. There are fifty beers on tap plus over 500 more in bottles, from local CT brews to those rare batches from the far reaches. For a different choice, they also offer Artisan cocktails. Two examples include a Gin Jam comprised of gin, simple syrup, berry jam and freshly macerated berries. For a change of pace they offer a beer-cocktail that combines the best of both worlds, such as their MargarIPA, a traditional margarita topped with a touch of IPA and then a squeeze of lime.

While the sheer volume of beers may be overwhelming, World of beer offers patrons I-Pad menus…technology meets brew master as each allows for searching, sorting and selection by numerous functions. Not sure which beer to order, opt for a 4-flight for $10 that include varying choices from Drink Local, Spring Seasonal, Intro to Hops and one that I hope they delete after the World Cup results, a Tour of Belgium.

Food options are limiting and described as Tavern Fare, “a celebration of the senses that enhances the flavors of our craft beers and craft spirits…a contemporary interpretation of classic comfort food, bar traditions, and innovative culinary trends.” Ranging from an enormous pretzel to rings, wings, sandwiches, tots and salads, very basic companions to the main event.

As Harbor Point continues to expand and attract other restaurants, it will be interesting to see how this beer-focused institution fits in. Will it be the pre-event for Paloma and Fortina or a successful stand-alone go-to spot to hang with friends? For the beer connoisseur this will be the destination spot in Stamford.

Thanks to my buddies at http://www.ctbites.com for breaking this news at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2014/3/14/restaurant-scene-explodes-stamfords-harbor-point.html

Swanky Franks has been serving dogs, burgers and fries for decades. The search for a decent dog in Fairfield County has been difficult. They serve Boars Head and offer hot dogs, grilled dogs, Swanky red hots, a variety of burgers and sandwiches, and fried seafood. A basic dog is $3.50.

I sat at the counter and ordered a single dog and an iced tea. The server was friendly and pleasant, a throw-back to those seen on sit-com diner servers of the 60’s. I asked her for the men’s room and she giggled a little and told me it was around back “still in this building, but outside.” Granted this is a side of the road dog and burger joint, but it is 2014, not 1955 and that may have been the last time the bathroom was updated. I was not going to touch anything, and I now understood why the server giggled. Disgusting is upside.

When I returned to the counter, the dog was already sitting in front of my iced tea. It almost looked lonely sitting naked in a bun on a paper plate, but since I did not order any toppings, it was what I ordered. It was split down the middle. I added a little mustard and green relish. My first bite was a disappointment. There was very little flavor in the dog. This about as basic a dog as one could imagine.

What was more disturbing was watching the cook. He did not wear gloves and as I watched him prepare other orders he would grab raw bacon, then grab a few slices of cheese and then the rolls, all without washing his hands.

Swanky Franks is what it is and I understand it is a side of the road dog place, but nostalgia did not win my heart and stomach.

Five Guys, Five Guys, why Five Guys?

On the way to enjoy some of the state’s best ice cream we stopped at 5Gs. I am not a big fan of fast food burgers, but since I was heading to Ferris Hill, it was the compromise I agreed to. I could have stayed in the car, but did not, I could have ordered a soda, but did not, I succumbed to my friends and placed an order, a small bacon cheeseburger with lettuce, tomato, fried onions and ketchup, plus an order of small fries and a drink.

As I watched them prepare the burger I shuddered on the time it remained on the grill, I watched the patty move through rare…medium-rare, medium…on its march to well-done….why? I reminisced watching a similar process at White Castle 50 years ago…cook ‘em til their gray. The buns were dutifully lined up across from the griddle, toppings applied and when the burger reached well-done, it joined them in the queue. The compiler constructed my burger, wrapped it, added to the bag already laden with a small fries and called my number.

I grabbed a drink, joined my party at a table, opened the bag to an explosion of steam, the fries were definitely hot and freshly prepared, why serve every potato in Idaho in one bag? The burger was tall and my first bite confirmed my previous impressions. This was an OK patty, with the majority of the flavors coming from the toppings. There was some juiciness to the patty but its preparedness to well-done was still, in my opinion, a bad idea. The fries were crispy on the exterior, soft, inside. But why must they give so many fries, again quantity is Five Guys the trump card.

Overall I understand the love-hate relationship people have with 5Gs. For me, I just do not get it.

Each year I develop a list for CTbites for the Best Restaurant Burgers in Fairfield County. The 2014 list added three additions from 2013. The first that requires a specific call out is Mama’s Boy. In addition to fantastic Low-country food and vibe, they are preparing one great burger.

Mama’s Boy (SONO) – The “Mama’s Boy Burger” is the third newcomer to this year’s list. It combines local grass fed beef with house-smoked bacon, fried Vidalia onions and pickles, encased in a brioche bun. (The current burger now includes pimiento cheese). The 5-6 ounce patty was perfectly seasoned and the bacon strips added a significant amount of smokiness and a touch of saltiness. The fried onions (nestled under the burger) were soft and sweet and adding a few of the pickle slices added sour notes. Served with shoestring fries, this is another great item on their menu.

“gingerbitz” is opening its doors in what owner Karen Zuckert calls the store’s “dress rehearsal” and I was invited for a sneak peek and sample several of Karen’s delicious creations.

Described as a bakery and café, gingerbitz is a welcome addition to New Canaan, which has yearned for a local bakery for many years. The longtime dream of New Canaan residents Andrew and Karen Zuckert, gingerbitz represents years of dedication. Karen is well known within Fairfield County for her amazing gingerbread houses that have graced many mantles, as well as featured at numerous holiday festivals. When the opportunity arose to open a bakery in town that would “broader showcase Karen’s talents,” the couple jumped at the opportunity. They painstakingly and meticulously renovated the location, developed relationships with vendors to provide organic products and Andrew embarked on his search for the perfect coffee.

Entering the café, the cases are filled with cakes, pies, tarts and cookies; sitting atop these cases are packaged gingerbread delicacies, all decorated for various occasions. Shelves are filled with house-made chocolate covered pretzel, ginger bits, iced gingerbread cookies occasions and marshmallow treats. In the back is the fully exposed kitchen, with Karen and staff busily preparing the day’s delights, “I never want to hide, I take pride in my kitchen.”

The welcoming aroma of the coffee and the faint buttery fragrance of breakfast beckons you to stay and enjoy the coffee and a pastry, pie or cake at one of several tables. Andrew researched numerous vendors and traveled the world before choosing Stumptown Coffee, out of Portland, Oregon. “They represented one of the most responsible coffee growers, are selective in the bean’s origin and offer several blends.” gingerbitz will initially offer two of these blends, the “Hairbender” and its bolder cousin, “Holler Mountain.” I sampled two cups of the Hairbender and it was also bold in its initial profile and was a perfect partner to Karen’s baked delights.

At lunch, the menu expands to include the soups and sandwiches of Chef Ashley Boucaud. Chef Ashley hails from the Caribbean, graduated from NYU and then followed her culinary passion and graduated from Johnson and Wales University in Providence. The opening selections include cream of mushroom soup, chicken soup, plus a ham and brie or a roasted chicken sandwich. For a healthy drink, gingerbitz will serve freshly squeezed orange juice or ask Andrew for a glass of freshly juiced organic carrots, kale, or other organic vegetables. At lunchtime, gingerbitz will offer these juices as a smoothie or combine with the soft serve ice cream for a more decadent drink.

In my first visit I sampled many of Karen’s creations. Overall these items were delectable and proved that high quality ingredients do not need an overabundance of sugar. Each of the items were mild in flavor and showcased the natural flavors of the ingredients, were not overly sweet and were reminiscent of those made at home.

The Key Lime Pie was sublime. The thin graham cracker crust and key lime filling were topped with a dollop of whipped cream. The filling was smooth, creamy and presented subtle lime flavor, and the thin crust presented balanced and wonderful combination. The Carrot Cake included the traditional carrots, walnuts, and cinnamon, with a touch of nutmeg and topped with a cream cheese frosting. The balance of the cake and the rich frosting was delightful, again mild in flavor. The two-layer Chocolate Cake contained chocolate mousse between the layers and frosted with a chocolate buttercream. Reminiscent of the chocolate cakes of days past, this was an outstanding combination of a mildly chocolate cake, and a creamy chocolate frosting. For the fruit lovers, the Strawberry Crisp was incredible; delivered full strawberry flavor, complemented by the slightly sweet and the cinnamon streusel topping. And don’t forget to take home a few cookies for the kids. The Apricot Thumbprint cookies were buttery and the apricot jam was delicious.

As gingerbitz slowly extends its hours and expands its offerings, I look forward to enjoying some of the best cakes, pies, tarts, and gingerbread creations from Karen Zuckert.

155 Elm Street, New Canaan, CT 06840
203-801-0281

Some colleagues in my office recommended Li’s Brothers, so I decided to give it a try.

With a friend on his way to join me for a quick lunch in the office before a meeting, I ordered fried dumplings, General Tsao Chicken and Moo Shu Chicken. None were available under their Lunch Special menu, so each of these were full sized portions. First, the portions are very large, you can easily share a single order.

From the top:

Dumplings – there are six dumplings to an order. They were lightly crisped on one side. These were not very good. They were under-cooked, very doughy and had very little filling. It was similar to biting into raw dough.

Moo Shu Chicken – A large portion with several pancakes. I decided to first try the chicken without the pancake. One bite was enough to convince me that the Moo SHu Chicken was not to my liking either. There was an incredibly bitter flavor in the chicken, and the overall dish was not very good.

General Tsao Chicken – I did not have high hopes for this dish after tasting the other two. The dish was also a large portion, served atop a large mound of broccoli. It was primarily fried crust covered with an over-sweet sauce. The scant amount of chicken was intermingled with pieces of chicken bones and cartilage. This was the worst of the three dishes.

I was really hoping I would like Li’s, but I would be hard pressed to return.

City Limits Diner in Stamford is a member of the Livanos Restaurant Group that includes one of my favorite NYC restaurants, Molyvos. I was first introduced to high-end Greek food at this restaurant and when City Limits arrived in Stamford, I heard that the food was excellent and the bakery was one of the best.

Looking at the menu there are numerous selections normally found at a diner. Breakfasts include eggs & omelets, pancakes, waffles, house-made granola and a few items that I would love to try including a chorizo and egg quesadilla and a crab cake benedict. Order an item from the bakery and have a great breakfast.

When lunch and dinner hits there are a couple of items that grab my attention including Kobe Beef Hot Dog on a pretzel roll with Jalapeño jack cheese, pickles and Chimichurri, a Turkey Cobb salad, and, from some e-mails I have received, a pretty good burger. A very eclectic group of entrées include a chicken loaf, fish & chips, crab cakes and ravioli. Coming from NJ I miss seeing the open faced roast beef or turkey sandwich, but I could probably get used to the change.

They are currently introducing a few weekly special evenings and my buddies over at www.ctbites.com post them every week on the “Weekly Nibble.” Take a look over there and check it out.