City Fish (Boca Raton) – Choose Carefully

Posted on December 23, 2015 by jfoodeats

A visit to a restaurant is for the food, the service and a couple of hours to relax and have time with family and friends. When a restaurant places a group of five at a round table for seven people the last of these desires pretty much goes out the window. Our visit to City Fish included that unfortunate occurrence. We asked for a smaller table immediately behind the one we were assigned and were declined. Yet 30 minutes later another group of five were given that table.

After we were seated and drink orders taken, two large baskets of bread and two large plates of butter are brought. The bread was warm and was very good, and the butter was spreadable. I ordered the snapper with sweet potato mash and seasonal vegetables. Others at the table ordered the scallops, the lobster frites, a crab cake and my wife wanted grilled scallops and shrimp with a salad. This would have met the requirements of the Fresh Catch and Salad Platter, but the server insisted she order the shrimp and scallop pasta Alfredo without the Alfredo (think Five Easy Pieces). She did not want pasta, but ordered it as well as a side salad. It was an arduous ordering process.

My Snapper and mashed sweet potatoes were delicious. Two large fillets were sautéed perfectly and the sweet potatoes were true to their name. The vegetables were significantly undercooked, borderline raw. Likewise there was little seasoning (easily fixable) and no lemon wedges (again easily remedied). The scallops were even better, seared on one side, to a rich golden brown, cooked throughout and sweet and delicious. My wife’s shrimp on the pasta was, unfortunately badly prepared, and inedible. It appeared they were first boiled, then sautéed and were drastically overcooked. The server was spot on, removed it from the table and the bill. The lobster frites looked pretty bad, the smallest piece of overcooked lobster I have seen in quite some time I was told it was delicious. The crab cake also looked very good.

Overall, I was very pleased with my fish and mash, and the scallops were fantastic, but the rest of the food looked pedestrian or was inedible.

Fleishers Craft Kitchen (Westport) Opens for Dinner Under Chef Adam Truelove

Posted on November 14, 2015 by jfoodeats

Saugatuck Craft Butchery was founded in 2011 by Ryan Fibiger and Paul Nessel with the philosophy of combining “traditional butchery skills with sustainable, whole animal practices and modern-day food movement ideals.” It purchases locally raised animals from farmers that share this philosophy, dry-ages the meat in-house and sells directly to the public. Over the last four years, as its popularity increased, it expanded to a new, larger location across the street that would feature both a butchery and a restaurant and earlier this year it merged with Fleishers Butchery, of Brooklyn, to become Fleishers Craft Butchery.

After the successful launch of breakfast and lunch service, Fleishers recently hired Chef Adam Truelove, formerly of Tarry Lodge, Napa & Co. and Pine Social to oversee its culinary expansion. In the last month it both opened its doors at its newest location in Cos Cob and expanded the service in Saugatuck to include dinner to showcase the farm raised meat and poultry from the butchery coupled with Chef Adam’s creativity. With a very low key environment, 30 seats and an additional six stools at the bar, the restaurant will offer a simple menu, as well as Family Dinners, from Tuesday through Saturday from 530-930PM.

The menu is divided into three sections, “Small,” “Burgers” and “From the Butcher.” The small plates range from cheese or meat platters to salads, to meatballs and pigs’ ears. With four choices of burgers, there are a full range of options for guests looking for a twin-thin to a large fatty patty (both beef and lamb are featured), while the entrée sized plates include several cuts from the butchery attached to the restaurant

CTbites was invited to sample a selection of the new cuisine.

The “Apple and Fennel Salad” was one of the best renditions of the currently popular kale salad I have tasted. The kale, slivered apples and fennel were tossed with a house-made bacon vinaigrette, shredded goat cheese and pistachios. The bacon-y vinaigrette was a fantastic complement to the kale with loads of smokiness that created a delightful combination. The apples brought a mild sweetness and the goat cheese a touch of saltiness. The pistachios rounded the salad with a nice earthiness and additional crunch.

The “Lamb Meatballs” were nestled in a swath of smoked ricotta and finished with a spiced red wine reduction and slivered scallions. The Indian influenced meatballs, seasoned with curry and cumin, were complemented by the creaminess of the smoked ricotta. They were soft and moist from the steaming and reheating in the wine reduction, which added a slight bitterness to the dish.

The last small plate was the “Crispy Pig,” which included chicharrones and thinly sliced strips of pig’s ears, which were braised before deep frying. The strips were coated with a spicy Sriracha sauce and parsley, and served with aioli. The chicharrones were crunchy pillows of air while the pork strips were the textural opposite; a chewy, crunchy texture. I was not a fan of this combination (a personal preference) but others at the table loved it.

The “Craft Burger” was included on my 2015 list of Best Burgers in Southwest Connecticut and the current version continues as one of my favorites in the area. The burger begins with a combination of dry-aged beef with a little added fat, dipped in an IPA cheese fondue, and topped with a few greens, bacon jam and an onion ring. The deep flavors of the dry-aged meats were perfectly balanced by the bacon jam and the fondue dip. The burger was encased in a brioche that added buttery goodness. Shoestring fries accompanied the burger and they were crispy on the exterior and soft on the interior

When you are sitting adjacent to one of the best butchery around, it is hard to select which of the entrée to choose, with a double-cut pork chop, a half chicken, steak frites (currently a Rib Eye) and a lamb dish all an option.

The highlight of the visit was the “Rib Eye,” the current cut for the Steak Frites. Since we enjoyed the fries earlier with the burger, Chef Adam paired the chop with brisket burnt ends and beans. After one bite, I knew this was an outstanding steak. The 16-ounce filet was cooked to a perfect medium-rare, with a great sear on the exterior. The deep, ultra-rich flavor was fantastic, fork-tender and reminiscent of a great steak house. The side of brisket burnt ends and beans was a wonderful accompaniment that both mellowed and enhanced the steak.

The “Pork Chop” was an enormous double-cut chop served atop a mound of sausage stuffing and a small side salad. The chop was served medium-rare and pink in the middle (order differently if desired) and glazed with a pomegranate molasses and finished with a dash of Gray rock sea salt. The sausage contained house-made sausage and brioche and offered just a hint of spicy-sweetness. The chop was moist and flavorful and delicious with the sweet pomegranate glaze.

Overall, the initial offerings at Fleisher’s were fun, creative and showcased the top-tiered quality of the butcher shop. Chef Adam informed us after the meal that lamb will be a continual offering to expand the year-round acceptance of this wonderful meat. The prices reflect the restaurant’s ability to offer exceptional quality at relatively reasonable prices. The $32 rib eye steak frites was a great value and the other entrées were priced in the mid-$20s. I look forward to returning to Fleishers to work my way through each of the meats and poultry.

Really Liked

Apple and Fennel Salad
Craft Burger
Rib Eye
Pork Chop

Liked

Lamb Meatballs

Did Not Like

Crispy Pig

580 Riverside Ave. – Westport CT 06880

(203)226-6328

Del Frisco’s Grille (Stamford) – Stick with the Meats

Posted on September 23, 2015 by jfoodeats

I was invited on behalf of CTbites to a lunch at Del Frisco’s Grille in Stamford, the pubbier version of the nationwide steak house, representing their twenty-second Grille opening and its first location in Connecticut. The main dining area is very open, with its soaring ceiling, reclaimed woods, large murals, and light fixtures with an industrial-hip, NYC vibe. Seating includes tables, banquettes, and a long bar, all with leather backed seats and bar stools. The large open kitchen is situated in the rear of the dining room.

Overseeing the kitchen is Executive Chef Enrique Reyes. Prior to this position, Reyes served as executive sous chef at Michael Jordan’s Steak House, chef de cuisine at Madison Beach Hotel and sous chef at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. Since the Stamford location is their “Grille” edition, the menu is different from its sister NYC steakhouse but does include several of Del Frisco’s signature steaks (available, but not advertised, on the lunch menu), plus traditional steakhouse salads, seafood and burgers. When I asked about the vision of Del Frisco’s Grille I was told that the cuisine would offer twists on traditional American cuisine with a focus on creating comfort food. During my visit I sampled three items that are prepared to share and two that would be ordered as an entrée, plus a dessert.

The three sharing plates were the Cheesesteak Eggrolls, the Ahi Tacos and the Spicy Pork Meatball Flatbread. My lunch companion told me the eggrolls were one of the biggest sellers, so I sampled this item first. The fried wrappers encased the beef and cheese combination, cut diagonally and served with two sauces, a sweet and spicy chili sauce and a honey mustard sauce. The beef and cheese was tasty but fought with the fried wrappers. The two sauces did not work with the beef and cheese and the entire dish, although flavorful, was not at all to my liking, more of a fun, novelty item to share on a first visit.

The Ahi Tacos were four small hard shelled tortillas that were half-filled with smashed avocado, topped with Tuna Tartare, and drizzled with Spicy Citrus Mayo. The avocado was bland, absent of any seasoning while the tuna offered some flavor, which was accented by the mayo. The shell made for ease of lifting but quickly split into pieces after one bite. The tuna and spicy mayo complemented each other, but when combined with the bland avocado and the hard shell it was not a dish that I enjoyed.

The flatbread was topped with a Roasted Tomato Sauce, halved Spicy Pork Meatball, chunks of Banana Peppers, dollops of Mozzarella, and house-made Ricotta. The flatbread was very over-baked and we struggled to cut the crust with our knives and the over baking also caused the meatballs and two cheese to lose all of their moisture. The pork was somewhat under-spiced while the small chunks of banana peppers were very good, but haphazardly placed on the flatbread. This was the third, and most disappointing, of the shared appetizers.

Fortunately, the next two dishes were much better.

The Grille Prime Cheeseburger included two beef patties, lettuce, tomato, red onion, pickle, and “Sloppy Sauce,” served on a brioche with a side of French fries. The two, thin patties were cooked to well-done, but maintained a good level of juiciness and delivered a deep level of flavor. The abundant cheese was perfectly melted and was a great pairing for the beef and the lettuce and tomatoes added a great freshness, while the paper-thin sliced red onion added a touch of pungency. The brioche added a sweet butteriness. The French fries were well prepared, crispy on the exterior and soft on the interior.

The Grass Fed Hanger Steak was sliced and fanned across the plate, topped with DFG Steak Sauce (Béarnaise-style), frites and a mini-squeeze container of ketchup (I did not like the idea it was placed on top of the steak). The steak was seasoned with salt and pepper and prepared to medium-rare. The flavor of the steak was rich and deep, but was slightly over-seasoned, and the sauce was a nice complement. The “frites” were a combination of French fries, sweet potato fries and chips; all three were very good.

The dessert menu was presented and since I have heard positive reviews about the Coconut Cream Pie, I decided to give it a try. It was excellent. The sweet crust was first filled with pudding, topped with a large mound of whipped cream and topped with shredded coconut. The filling was creamy and delightful and the coconut was a great addition. It was a nice way to end the meal.

Overall I was disappointed in all of the shared plates, they were gimmicky versus appealing. It was no surprise that the meats were rich and flavorful given the restaurant’s relationship to one of the premier steakhouses in NYC, and the coconut cream pie was delicious. The space was beautiful and invigorating but I would be careful in food choices.

Really Liked

Coconut Cream Pie
The Grille Prime Cheeseburger ($13.50)

Liked

Grass Fed Hanger Sliced Steak ($20)

Did Not Like

Cheesesteak Eggrolls ($11)
Ahi Tacos ($14)
Spicy Pork Meatball Flatbread ($13.50)

Sitting Duck Tavern (Stratford) – Pretty Good Burger

Posted on September 19, 2015 by jfoodeats

Travelling north on the Merritt on a Friday evening is never a pleasant experience, but given the recommendations from others about the burger at The Sitting Duck Tavern in Stratford, we waited through the traffic and delays and eventually arrived in downtown Stratford around 7PM. The exterior tables were was already completely full, did not want one upstairs, and we grabbed a booth on the right side overlooking the kitchen pass.

Our server was very prompt in the drink and food orders and was knowledgeable and pleasant throughout the meal. I ordered a bacon cheeseburger, medium-rare, with bacon and fronions with a side of French fries. There were two other burger orders from the group, the other two were ordered medium, plus we ordered a side of onion rings for the table.

When the burgers arrived the first thing I noticed was the size of the patty. Sitting Duck is very generous with the meat. I lifted the top bun and saw the two slices of bacon, the melted cheese, but barely any fronions. I was disappointed in the meagerness of the fronions. This all sat atop shredded lettuce and a thin slice of tomato. I cut the burger in half and it was more medium than medium-rare and one of my dinner companions was the medium-rare doneness while mine was the medium…just a little carelessness by the kitchen.

I tasted the meat and was impressed, it had a medium level of beefiness and very tasty. The bacon was well cooked and the cheese was nicely melted. Since I did not order the lettuce and tomato, I removed these two items and took a bite of the complete package, it was very good. The fries were very basic and the restaurant decided to use an off-brand ketchup, not Heinz, and it was surprisingly good.

The order of onion rings consisted of four, yes four, rings. Three were very small and one was large. It was almost embarrassing, four onion rings in an order for a table of four. The coating was very thick and the onion itself was mushy. Having my single ring was enough.

Overall, I liked the casualness of the Sitting Duck and the burger was pretty good. As I watched the food leave the kitchen my guess is 75% of the orders are burgers, which is a good sign. There is a banner on the front stating it is “A Hidden Gem,” but seeing the crowd and the number of burgers leaving the kitchen I am not sure it is hidden any longer.

Bailey’s Backyard (Ridgefield) – Best New 2015 Burger

Posted on June 20, 2015 by jfoodeats

My number 4 for 2015 was Bailey’s Backyard “Cheddar and Ale Burger.” It began with beef from a grass fed humanely raised steer that was mildly compressed and grilled. The meat was deep and rich in flavor and incredibly juicy. Chef Forrest Pasternack topped his creation with caramelized onions and a house-made cheddar and ale sauce that contained over 29 ingredients. The subtle spice in the blend to complement the cheddar cheese was za’atar, itself a combination of several spices. The burger was encased in a buttery brioche. The hand cut shoestring fries were crispy and perfectly salted.

Prime Restaurant (Huntington, NY) – Great Burger @Brunch

Posted on June 18, 2015 by jfoodeats

Sandwiched between two fantastic crossings of the Long Island Sound from CT was a visit to Prime Restaurant in Huntington to enjoy their Sunday Jazz Brunch. The restaurant offers outside waterside tables in a relaxed environment plus more formal tables indoors. On this visit we were a little late for the first come first served tables on the deck and we were seated at a very quiet table next to the windows in the rear of the dining area where we could enjoy conversation with jazz in the background.

The Sunday Brunch menu consists of salads, maki rolls, eggs, and sandwiches, or dive into Prime’s famous and enormous steaks. I ordered the “Prime Burger” that includes a large 8 ounce patty, melted cheese, a slice of tomato, thinly sliced red onions, and lettuce on a brioche with a side of shoestring fries.

The burger was served on a wooden carving board, masquerading as a dinner plate, with the large order of fries assembled inside a wire basket. The burger was held together with a bamboo spear adorned with a cornichon.

I first grabbed few fries. The few on top were a little cool from sitting, but the next layer were hot, crispy, tasty and nicely salted. I next removed the onion slice (I am not a fan of raw onions) and cut the burger in half. It was perfectly prepared to my requested medium-rare. Likewise the kitchen prepared the bacon to crispy, but not overcooked. I pulled a little of the patty and tasted. The meat was deep in flavor, seasoned properly and excellent.

My first bite of the entire construction was delicious. The meat worked fantastically with the sweet tomato and the crispy lettuce was very refreshing. The bacon added just a touch of saltiness and a little smokiness. The roll was good, but it was not in the same league as the other ingredients, that would be my one suggestion, upgrade the bun, the meat deserves better.

We finished the meal with a single slice of cheesecake, topped with chocolate and caramel sauces. I was the only person at the table that was not fond of the cheesecake. I thought it was too gelatinous versus the creamy delightfulness of traditional NY Cheesecake.

Overall, it was a beautiful day on the Sound, a fantastic burger and a great time with friends.

Parallel Post Burger (Trumbull) – #9 on 2015 Best Burger List

Posted on June 9, 2015 by jfoodeats

My 2015 Best Burgers in FFD County was posted on:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2015/6/7/top-10-burgers-in-southwest-ct-2015-edition.html

In the #9 position was the “Double Burger” at Parallel Post in Trumbull. This lobby restaurant in the Marriott Hotel is stark in decor but alive with flavor.

The “Double Burger” includes two patties of very mild grass-fed beef, topped with Vermont cheddar cheese, Benton’s bacon and served on a sesame brioche bun with fancy sauce. The meat is delicious, and the bacon delivered a high level of smokiness to the entire burger. The nuttiness of the Cheddar was a great complement and the bacon added the salty component. The brioce was very buttery and really added to the overall composition. The fancy sauce was a tomato aioli with a little spiciness that added to versus detracted from the burger. The fries were perfect and there was just a little kick in the ketchup.

Five-Course Tasting Menu @Bar Sugo – Norwalk

Posted on May 20, 2015 by jfoodeats

Several years ago I sampled Chef Pat Pascarella’s Pasta Bolognese from his original pizzeria and pasta storefront hidden off the beaten path on route 123 in Norwalk. It was one of the best Bolognese I had ever eaten and over the years I have enjoyed many of Chef Pat’s creations. He recently introduced Bar Sugo’s full-table Pasta Tasting menu and invited CTbites to sample the five courses, each very different…from a straightforward tomato and basil to a complex lobster, morel and truffle. The incredible Bolognese that Chef Pat served me several years ago was a prelude to the fantastic five courses that I enjoyed with wine pairings from Megan Pacarella.

The first course was a traditional Spaghetti with tomato and basil. The pasta was cooked to al dente with just a small bite to the texture. It was swathed with a rich and thick tomato sauce with a smattering of torn basil leaves. The sauce was a deep and vibrant concentration of tomato flavor. This simple presentation proved that a great dish requires only perfectly cooked pasta and a rich, delicious tomato sauce.

This was followed by two filled pasta courses. The first was a golden beet and Robiolina cheese stuffed Casonsei. The triangular pockets were served atop a butter sauce, accented with a drizzle of saba and finished with a sprinkling of poppy seeds. The Casonsei were minimally filled with the golden beets and cheese purée which offered a touch of sweetness from the beets and a slight tanginess from the cheese. The saba delivered a delightful sweetness and the poppy seeds were an excellent addition to add earthiness and a little crunch.

The next course was Ricotta Ravioli topped with peas, a mint and pea purée and a few shreds of pickled ramps. The mint and pea purée was fantastic with the peas served al dente to add a little textural difference. The pickled ramps were a great addition and added a different twist with its pungent notes to complement the earthiness of the peas and the mint. These three ingredients created a perfect balance to this dish.

The fourth and first non-vegetarian pasta was a Fusilli Bianco & Nero. A traditional fusilli was paired with a squid ink fusilli. The twin pastas were swathed with a smoked tomato sauce and served with chunks of sausage, shrimp, smoked tomato and “pickled hots.” This playful “surf and turf” interpretation featured various competing components. The sausage, tomato and pasta were wonderful and the addition of the pickled hots added a great layer of spiciness. The squid ink with the shrimp and pickled hots was a different flavor profile, combining the mildness of the shrimp with the spiciness of the peppers. In the end, I really enjoyed the sausage and pepper combination and would order that as a separate and delicious savory pasta.

Chef Pat saved the best for last and when I say best, the fifth pasta was one the best entrées I have eaten in quite some time. The presentation began with a delightfully soft ricotta Gnocchi, which was served with chunks of lobster, morel mushrooms, with a black truffle butter sauce and finished with a smattering of black truffle pieces. The gnocchi were the perfect canvas for the decadent combination of the rich lobster, truffles and morels. The holey texture of the mushrooms captured the sauce with each bite and the lobster added a mild sweetness. The entire dish was elevated with the addition of the black truffles, which added a rich and fragrant earthiness. This was a brilliant execution in every aspects.

Overall, the five pastas that Chef Pat prepared were fantastic. From the simplistic tomato and basil to the highly complex gnocchi with morels and lobster, each showcased a balanced approach to pasta with creative and delicious combinations. I hope each will be available separately to Bar Sugo guests so more people can enjoy some of the best pasta in the area.

#pasta #barsugo #patpascarella #norwalk

Oceana (St.Thomas) – Almost Flawless From Start to Finish

Posted on January 28, 2015 by jfoodeats

Our recent visit to Oceana was close to flawless from start to finish. This restaurant is an annual visit for our group and the visit to the beautiful setting was the culinary highlight of the extended weekend. Our servers for the evening were exceptional. They explained the evenings specials, at both ends of the long table, were helpful with suggestions, when one in our party explained her allergies, they were quick to check with the kitchen on each of the dishes, they delivered the food efficiently, checked in and were a part of our fun.

We started the evening with a small gift from the chef. An Asian soup spoon was delivered to each of us. Each was filled with a gelee made with blueberry and kobuchi (Japanese tea). It was a very playful start to the meal and set the tone for the menu’s light options.

For my appetizer I ordered the special of the evening, the Lobster Bisque. The bisque was served with a dollop of crème fraiche and a mini-triangle of grilled cheese. This version offered a delicate flavor from the lobster; it was not overwhelming; and was offset by the tang of the crème fraiche and a slight crunch from the grilled cheese. I really liked the Lobster Bisque.

I also ordered the evening’s special for my entrée, Swordfish medallions with fried sweet potato gnocchi plus slices of cucumber and mango. I was a little hesitant ordering swordfish and mentioned my anxiety to the server about dried out fish. She was very confident about the chef’s ability. She was absolutely correct. The swordfish was perfectly prepared, moist on the interior and the texture indicated its ultimate freshness. The gnocchi added just a little crunchiness but it was not a significant flavor component. The mound of thinly sliced and slightly pickled cucumbers were a great addition. The entire dish was elevated by the sweetness of the ultra-thin slices of mango. This modest addition created a beautifully wonderful composition.

The table ordered almost all of the desserts to share. My favorite was the Chocolate Molten Cake, which ranks as one of the top five I have ever eaten. The other outstanding choice was the White Chocolate Panna Cotta, which was served with sweet berries; the combination was outstanding. The Creme Brulee was slightly undercooked, a little runny, but the flavors were perfect and the topping was minimal, which is my preference. The last dessert was the Apple Pie. It was also delicious with crispy apples complemented by a crust with great buttery flavor.

Overall, our venture to Oceana was nearly flawless and I cannot wait to return next year for another creative meal.

Hudson Restaurant (Delray Beach) – Outstanding Dinner

Posted on December 25, 2014 by jfoodeats

Hudson Restaurant is located just off Atlantic Avenue in Delray overlooking the eastern side of the Intercoastal. The entrance to the restaurant is located on Venetian Drive and the parking lot is fully dedicated to valet parking. There are four separate eating areas, the bar, the lounge, the deck and a slightly more formal dining area overlooking the kitchen. All but the bar offer a view or a limited view of the waterway. Be advised that the dining area’s proximity to the kitchen was our least favorite as the cooking aromas engulfed the table.

Overseeing the kitchen is Executive Chef George Cocilova, a CIA graduate, whose experience includes cooking at Bouley in New York City, The French Laundry in Napa Valley and Aqua in San Francisco. This top-tiered experiencewas evident in my dish, which was perfectly prepared and composed.

The table started with the White Flatbread. The crispy rectangular presentation was topped with garlic confit, Fontina and Ricotta cheeses, pinwheel sausage and broccoli rabe. This was delicious. The crust was crispy and was a great canvas for the two cheeses, which gave a good level creaminess. The pungency of the broccoli rabe was offset by a mildly spicy sausage and the garlic confit was a great complement to the other ingredients.

For my entrée I ordered the Pork Porterhouse that included sweet potato purée, braised rainbow Swiss chard, HUDSON bourbon peaches, applewood smoked bacon, caramelized onions and finished with a red grape demi. This was outstanding. The pork chop was moist and full of flavor. The caramelized onions were more sautéed than a slow caramelization, and were soft and sweet and the bacon pieces were perfectly crisped and added smokiness and saltiness. The peaches added a great level of sweetness to the overall presentation. This was one great chop.

Service was fantastic as well. Our server was knowledgeable, friendly and was more than willing to offer suggestions and opinions.

Overall I highly recommend Hudson as a great restaurant with a great view.

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying

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