Napa & Co. – Geat Food in Stamford

Posted on August 1, 2012 by jfoodeats

Napa and Company in Stamford has another extraordinary chef, Chef Leonardo Marino, overseeing its award-winning kitchen. Chef Leo is slowly modifying the menu to showcase his commitment of using exceptional ingredients to highlight their natural flavors. Three weeks after assuming Napa’s Executive Chef position, CTbites sat with Chef Leo for this “Behind the Scenes,” review, discussed his passion for food and sampled several of his recently premiered dishes.

Chef Leo’s devotion to cooking started at an early age as he assisted his mother and aunt in the kitchen; they inspired him to pursue a culinary education. After attending the Culinary Institute of America, his philosophy of accentuating the natural flavors was further influenced in the kitchens of some of America’s greatest chefs. While working as the Lead Sous Chef for Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin, Ripert asked him to relocate to Washington DC to take the reins of Chef de Cuisine at Westend Bistro by Eric Ripert. Chef Leo returned to New York in 2009 and joined David Bouley at both Bouley and as the Chef of Bouley Upstairs. In 2010 he joined Jean George Vongerichten, first as the Executive Sous Chef at his flagship restaurant, Jean George, and subsequently as the Executive Sous Chef at The Mark Restaurant by Jean George. After working with all of these legendary chefs, Chef Leo commented, “My mother and my aunt are two of the best chefs,” but he quickly added, “…in addition to Eric and Jean George.”

The first dish was a delightful tomato gazpacho. Chef Leo’s version began with a mound of baby heirloom tomatoes, Marcona almonds, basil and sliced strawberries, all topped with a mini-grilled cheese. The soup, which was comprised of traditional cucumbers, red peppers with just a touch of diced Serrano chili to give the dish a little spiciness, was then slowly poured into the dish. The bright flavors of the tomatoes were perfectly accented by the cucumbers, red peppers and the Serrano chili; and the mini-grilled cheese was both a delicious and fun addition. I really enjoyed this dish as a light start to the meal for both the crisp combinations of flavors as well as its varying textures.

The second dish was a remarkable salad and my favorite of those that I tasted; heirloom tomatoes, burrata, grilled country bread, white balsamic gelee and green and purple basil. The tomato season started early this year and Chef Leo is taking full advantage of the delectable and diverse varieties that are currently available. No less than five different varieties of heirloom tomatoes were served. In addition, the imported burrata was one of the most delicious and creamy burratas that I have tasted. The white balsamic gelee brought a delightful and interesting flavor to the dish and it was refreshingly new to my palate. Lastly, the grilled bread brought a wonderful crunchy texture. This dish would work perfectly as a light lunch or a delicious start to a dinner.

The next dish was a fried, poached duck egg with crispy romaine lettuce, shaved broad beans, and surrounded by a drizzle of house-made green goddess dressing. Yes, green goddess dressing. Chef Leo explained his fond memories of the dressing and he thought it would perfectly balance the flavors of the romaine and beans. When the dish was presented, Chef Leo cut into the egg and the yolk gently oozed over the lettuce and created a luscious creaminess. He explained that he first poached the egg, then coated the poached egg with panko, and fried the coated egg to create a crispy exterior and a creamy interior. He also mentioned that he added a surprise ingredient to the egg, a touch of harissa to give just a hint of spiciness to the dish.

The third salad that I enjoyed was the red and white endive salad with Port Reyes blue cheese, balsamic vinaigrette and chives. This simple salad delivered fantastic flavors. The Port Reyes, with its medium pungency cheese complemented the slight bitterness of the endive, and when combined with the deep flavors of the balsamic vinaigrette created a delightful and perfectly balanced salad.

One of Chef Leo’s newly introduced entrées is a saba glazed duck breast with New Zealand spinach, Urban Oaks plums, baby turnips, candy stripe beets, strawberries and chanterelles. He first seared the meat, and then slowly braised the duck before searing for a second time to crisp the skin. The duck meat in Chef Leo’s version was cooked to medium, which he believes produces a more tender product. After tasting this dish I fully agree; the duck meat was tender and full of flavor. The accompaniments to the duck were delicious. The candy stripe beets, one of my favorite varieties, worked extraordinarily well with the sweetness of the plums and strawberries, while the baby turnips and the chanterelles added a wonderful, deep earthy flavor.

Chef Leo saved my favorite dish of the day for last; a pappardelle with wild mushrooms, Parmesan cheese and topped with a light mushroom foam. The pasta was perfectly cooked and then tossed with a sauce comprised of mushroom stock, crème fraiche and a touch of Parmesan Reggiano. The dish included a variety of wild mushrooms including chanterelles and shitakes (morels may be included in the near future). The dish was finished with a bit of foamed mushroom sauce. The earthiness of the mushrooms was delicious. The flavors of each of the numerous mushroom varieties brought a wonderful earthiness to this dish and the foam accentuated the deep mushroom flavors. I would highly recommend this dish to every mushroom enthusiast.

Chef Leo Marino is slowly placing his philosophy of fresh flavors onto the Napa menu. As he stated, “The soul of my mother is in all of my food.” After sampling several of his creations, I am extremely excited about the direction that Chef Leo will take the exquisite food at one of my favorite restaurants in Fairfield County.

Napa and Company – 75 Broad Street – Stamford, CT 06907 – 203-353-3319

www.napaandcompany.com

Originally reviewed by Jeff “jfood” Schlesinger on www.ctbites.com on July 29, 2012

Bridge Street Wienery (STM) – A good alternative to 5-Guys

Posted on July 21, 2012 by jfoodeats

I always appreciate people who risk their livelihood to follow their dreams. So when I drove to Bridge Street Wienery in Stamford, I really wanted to love this place. And after eating a hot dog and hamburger I realized that sometimes people just want a basic hamburger or hot dog, looking for that Earl Scheib’s, “No ups; No extras.”

Bridge Street serves Sabrett hot dogs (6 to the pound) with more topping variations than I could ever eat, plus hamburgers, hot sausages, chicken sandwiches and steak and cheese sandwiches. The dogs are split and then grilled on a flattop. The burgers are 3-4 ounce (more to the former), also grilled on the flattop and served a la 5 guys, well done. The toppings are plentiful and are arranged in price groups on the menu. I saw a few people trying to figure out what their burger would cost. Me? Pretty simple, I ordered a dog with sauerkraut and relish plus a bacon cheeseburger.

If the owners, Steve and Mike, envisioned opening a burger and dog place to mimic a major league ballpark or a Sunday church BBQ event they absolutely succeeded. It is what it is, no ups; no extras. The dog was too small (I like 4 to the pound) to handle the toppings they generously place on top. When I saw them individually grill some onions, I was impressed. The burger was OK, nothing special, but a single is way too small for anyone over 12 years old. The bacon was flavorful but overpowered my single patty, it would probably be better with a double patty.

One item I did not like at all was the sexual double-entendres on some of the signs and posters. It’s a family place; I would not want to explain to my 10-12 year old what some of these inappropriate “jokes” meant. Focus on the food and leave the locker humor where it “belongs.”

People’s Choice (Norwalk) – You Gotta Try This Place

Posted on July 21, 2012 by jfoodeats

My buddies over at http://www.ctbites.com told me about this place as a must-try.

Do not let the decor fool you, this place serves some outrageously good jerk chicken. And the family (looks like three generations) that serve from behind the counter put all their love in the food and all their smiles in the order. I ordered a medium jerk chicken with rice and bean and cabbage. Then I was asked if I wanted gravy…absolutely, and then some plaintains on top.

The chicken was fall off the bone tender, plenty of flavor, super moist and not too spicy, the rice and beans with the gravy were fantastic and the plaintain was delicious and sweet.

Highly recommend and next time I have to try the curry goat.

Tacos Mexico – Hidden Gem in

Posted on July 5, 2012 by jfoodeats

Tacos Mexico is located in a small strip mall on Fort Point Street off East Avenue just south of I-95. I have been hearing good things from by buddies over at http://www.ctbites.com so I stopped by for a quick lunch and very much enjoyed almost the entire meal. I ordered the Chipotle Chicken Taco Lunch special ($6.49) and a single beef taco ($2.25).

Once I ordered my meal the server brought a basket of nacho chipss and two small bowls of red salsa. The salsas are almost identical except for a little difference in the heat and some of the ingredients in one were pureed. Both were delicious and I really liked the idea that they include little spoons. You can take a spoonful, place atop a chip and enjoy a good amount of salsa per chip.

The beef taco arrived first and it probably sat a bit before coming to the table as it was luke warm. The plate was much hotter than the food. The flavors were good but it needed the addition of the house green sauce for me to really enjoy. The chicken tacos arrived next. They were two rolled tacos filled with a creamy and delicious chicken. The beans and the rice that accompanied the dish were also delicious. This was a big winner for me.

So with the exception of the beef taco, I thoroughly enjoyed Tacos Mexico. BTW – Service is incredibly slow so if you are in a rush at lunch you should make mention of that when you order, maybe they can hurry the food from the kitchen.

Darien Social (Darien) – Two Strikes

Posted on June 24, 2012 by jfoodeats

I really wanted to like this place from recommendations and when I walked in I had high hopes. My first visit was very weird and like a roller coaster. I sat at the bar near the server station and ordered a bacon cheeseburger with fries and shoestring onions. It arrived very quickly. My first taste was the onions and they were excellent, some of the best I have ever eaten so I was pretty excited. The fries were not in the same league, basic fries, very pedestrian. Now I moved to the burger. I cut it in half, It had a good flavor but there was almost a bitter, vinegary taste to it, the bun was a little stale and I noticed they forgot the bacon, so I told the bartender. Now the unfortunate situation I faced. I was sitting next to a complete oaf. He harassed all the female servers (I have two daughters in their 20’s and it totally pissed me off) at the service counter and the bartender did nothing (other then pal with the guy) and the male servers did nothing, either. I was embarassed for all of them. The runner returned with a plate with my bacon slices. (My preference would have been for them to take the burger back to the kitchen and finish their job), I never had a chance to combine and try because the oaf leaned over and in earshot of the bartender made an incredibly rude comment to the lady seated on the other side of me. The bartender again played ostrich and put his head in the ground. I got up, packed my jacket, (oaf leaned over and apologized to me) asked for the manager, and told him that if his staff allowed that sort of behavior to other members of his staff and to guests, then I was leaving. The manager was incredibly embarassed and told me he would wander over and if he heard anything he would throw him out. Hope he did. In any event I lost my appetite.

Trip number two was much more pleasant, professional and gave me another chance to try the BCB. This time it arrived fully garnished. And it was encased in a different bun than the first time, this bun was much better. Again the beef was full of flavor, but bitter, with that vinegary aftertaste . Not sure what it was but it really took away from the rich flavor of the beef. And the fries were again not to my liking, this time some of them were undercooked.

Would I return…probably, but at this point it is not on the power rotation.

Farmer’s Table (NC) – Delightful Cuisine

Posted on June 18, 2012 by jfoodeats

Over the first year I have probably eaten everything Chef Robert has created. And everything is delicious.

The soups are the best, to the point that every time I return from a trip there is a container in my fridge since my family loves them so much. The favorites are the butternut squash, the mushroom (my wife’s all-time favorite), and the seafood chowder.

Really like the quesadillas and the three tacos are the best deal in town. The shrimp mojo is a big hit with the family .

And last but not least is the Farmer’s Table hamburger. Using his brother John Boy’s meat, this burger is one of the best around and one of my Ctbites recommended in Fairfield County. Some melted cheese and a few slices of cornichon and this is woth its weight is gold.

leave room for dessert as the chocolate cake and the cheesecake are both fantastic.

Estia’s American – Deliciously “Home-Cooked” in Darien

Posted on May 22, 2012 by jfoodeats

When restaurateur Colin Ambrose decided to follow his wife and three daughters and return to Fairfield County from the eastern end of Long Island, he brought a reputation for delivering creative farm to table cuisine. As the former owner/chef of Estia’s in Amagansett and the current owner of Estia’s Little Kitchen in Sag Harbor, Ambrose is celebrating his Darien homecoming by opening his latest restaurant, Estia’s American. After Ambrose settled on the location that formerly housed Ole Mole, he immediately set to create a rustic Americana décor that included American flags created from book spines, relaxing beach paintings and his personal collection of cookbooks and novels, including several by his uncle Stephen Ambrose. The restaurant will locally source many of the featured items capitalizing on the twenty years that Ambrose has worked in developing his unique cuisine. When I first met Ambrose, he was unloading a carload of local vegetables from a recent trip to Sag Harbor and the chalkboard on the rear wall mentions the local vendors and the farms, affectionately referred to as “Partners on the Plate” where many of the menu’s ingredients are produced.

Overseeing the kitchen is Ambrose’s long-time friend and associate Chef Carissa Waechter, a graduate of the Art Institute of New York City’s culinary arts program. Chef Waechter’s resume includes many of the great New York restaurants and pastry shops including Mondrian Pastry, David Burke, Donatella and Beacon NYC, and she subsequently joined the pastry team at the Dinex Group under Chef Daniel Boulud. While operating the Amagansett Farmers Market she met Ambrose and their professional friendship started. Like Ambrose, she is a loyal follower of the farm to table movement as witnessed in her line of baked goods, Carissa’s Breads, which is produced with locally grown and harvested ingredients.

The food at Estia’s is characterized by unique combinations. During the initial six weeks, Ambrose concentrated on the breakfast and lunch menus with the traditional breakfast items available at both services. In mid-May, Estias expanded the hours to offer dinner.

My favorite dish was the Red Flannel Hash that included two eggs prepared to the guest’s preference sitting atop chorizo, potatoes, corn, peppers and onions. Since I am a big fan of oozing yolks I ordered two soft poached eggs. The chorizo was bold in flavor, had a nice medium spice and the vegetables maintained their crunchiness. The corn brought sweetness to the dish and the choice of sweet potatoes versus traditional white potatoes perfectly balanced the flavors of the other vegetables. Overall I liked the bold and sweet flavors of this dish and next time I would order the eggs sunny side up to increase the yolky goodness.

The table shared an order of the Turtle Rolls as a pre-appetizer sampling. This all-vegetarian dish included avocados, onions, black bean puree and Napa cabbage encased in a flour tortilla wrap. The combination had a good variety of flavors with just a little spice and a touch cilantro. I thought this was a good introduction to Estia’s flavors and I recommend this dish to start the meal.

I have been searching for a good Cubano sandwich in Fairfield County and the Pablos Cubano prepared at Estia’s was a step in the right direction. Chef Waechter’s house-made bread was delicious and I enjoyed the Reynold’s Family Farm pulled pork and the perfectly melted cheese, plus the pickle added the correct level of acidity; although the sliced ham could have been more flavorful to match the other ingredients. Overall Estia’s Pablos Cubano was very good and I now need to search for other good Fairfield County Cubano sandwiches.

The Silvera’s Salmon Wrap included grilled salmon, arugula, salsa, mojo, bean puree, plus tomatoes all wrapped in a flour tortilla. For those who would like a less spicy entree for lunch, this is a good choice. The mild salmon was moist and flavorful and I enjoyed the addition of the arugula, which added a peppery flavor component and complemented the black beans and tomatoes.

There were two sauces that require a special shout-out and each added delicious flavors to the dishes. The red sauce is comprised of guajillo chili, onion, garlic and tomatoes, while the green sauce includes mint, parsley, garlic, jalapeño peppers and lime. Both were delicious and added a decent level of heat and flavor to the dishes.

After two months, Estia’s has refined the offerings I look forward to returning and enjoying many more.

1020 Post Road, Brick Walkway, Darien, CT

(203) 202-7051

estiasamerican.com

Originally reviewed by Jeff “jfood” Schlesinger on www.ctbites.com on May 20, 2012

Anthony’s Coal Fired Pizza (Darien) – Well Done = Burnt

Posted on April 17, 2012 by jfoodeats

After a couple of attempts to eat the pizza, I am throwing in the towel, raising the white flag and moving on.

After living through an event at another restaurant in town where a drunk patron caused an enormous scene so I left I drove to ACF for a pizza. As a solo, I sat at the bar, ordered a soda and a pizza. When it arrived the first thing I noticed was the char, or should I say burnt crust. This is acceptable with certain Neopolitan varieties, but this was not the answer. Then I lifted the crust and the entire bottom was charred black, no Itake that back it was burnt.

This was not something I wanted to consume, so I called the bartender over, showed it to him. His response, he pointed to the sign and said “It says right there we make our pies well done.” So I asked for the check, paid and went on my way.

A manager did approach and offered a replacement, but with staf like the bartender and the kitchen staff I decided to call it a night.

elm Restaurant Opens in New Canaan

Posted on April 7, 2012 by jfoodeats

At 5:44PM on the first day of spring, March 20, 2012, the kitchen at elm Restaurant in New Canaan hummed to life as it received an order from the dining room. This was no ordinary order, it was the restaurant’s first. The order ticket began…Appetizers – 1 grilled Spanish octopus, 1 citrus cured hamachi, 1 local lettuces from millstone farm, 1 roots, shoots, fruits and leaves, and 1 soft farm egg ravioli… elm was officially open. The outstanding staff that Chef Brian Lewis had assembled sprang to action. The months of planning, the weeks of training, the hours of preparation were now tested as the guests arrived and the orders placed.
As we enjoyed wine and draft beer, the server brought a pan of house-made bread that is a cross between a brioche and a biscuit, served with house-made butter topped with a smoked paprika and citrus salt. It was a delicious beginning, and over the next two hours we thoroughly enjoyed several courses and numerous dishes. At the end of the meal we all agreed that this was something special; this was an opening night meal that would be remembered as extraordinary. The high expectations that were building for weeks were greeted with superb food.
On opening night I noticed subtleties in the décor, the place settings, the service and the overall demeanor of the staff that can be described as relaxed elegance. Our server was calm, friendly and professional as she both described some of the dishes and ingredients and offered suggestions. And the nuances that Owners Laura Barker, Kristen Eveland and Chef Brian Lewis placed on each aspect of the dining experience instilled a sense of calm. Their attention to the tiniest detail created an incredibly relaxed and enjoyable evening.
The appetizers are all delicious. The incredibly tender octopus is slowly braised and served with guanciale, pea shoots and served over a black aioli and topped with crisp fried garlic and smoked paprika breadcrumbs. The hamachi is a delicious trio of presentations: a tartare, a citrus cured loin and a sashimi belly. The latter is wrapped with a thin slice of Asian pear. The flavors of the hamachi are combined with several forms of yuzu and ginger oil and finished with a fennel puree, crispy shiso and red beets plus a little cilantro. The combinations of these flavors were citrusy with just a touch of heat from the ginger and yuzu. The local lettuces and the roots, et. al. are farmed at Millstone Farms and present a variety of seasonal ingredients. Chef Lewis prepares the roots, shoots, fruits and leaves with a variety of methods including raw, braised, confit, dried and pureed. Included in this cacophony of flavors and colors is an incredibly flavorful mousse comprised of goat cheese and medjool date puree. These last two appetizers present a crisp and refreshing start to the meal.
The soft egg ravioli are three raviolis, each filled with a different ingredient and are amazing. The first is filled with sheep’s milk ricotta, slightly accented with mint and olive oil. The flavors are a delightful combination. The second filling is a soft cooked farm egg yolk, that when combined with the other two raviolis, adds decadence to the dish. The third ravioli is my favorite. The filling is a spinach and parmesan puree, incredibly smooth and flavorful.
We next enjoyed the Hudson valley foie gras, served two ways. The preparations include a seared piece of foie gras, paired with apricot marmalade, and topped with beluga lentils, pata negra ham and a touch of a sherry vinegar sauce. The second presentation is a terrine accompanied with dried pistachios, some crumbled and dried pata negra ham with a touch of apricot gellee. The sweet and sour components and the different textures are fantastic. This is a true delight for those who are foie gras fans.
The table ordered three extraordinarily delicious entrées; the beef tenderloin in smoked butter, the sea scallops with riso venere and the trio of local pork with pimenton. The grass-fed beef is roasted in hay and accented with smoked butter and salt, and served with oatmeal cooked in mushroom stock, roasted mushrooms, melted and crisp shallots, spinach and finished with a touch of red wine sauce. The beef is incredibly tender and flavorful and the additional flavors create a perfectly balanced and delightful presentation. The scallops are sweet and sautéed in paprika oil to a crisp exterior while maintaining the succulence of the interior. They are served with deliciously prepared Italian black rice, with a touch picholine olive salsa and a salted cod sitting atop. This is a delightful dish. The trio of pork includes pieces of belly, shoulder and bacon wrapped loin. The perfectly prepared pork presentations sit atop heirloom smoked grits accompanied by a soft cooked egg. A delicious sauce of smoked paprika and smoked paprika salt combines with a green tomato jam, currents and bourbon walnuts to complete the presentation. Each piece of pork presents different textures and flavors and the sauce and green tomato jam are delectable.
The desserts prepared by Pastry Chef Caryn Sabinsky are incredible. We ordered four to share including the carrot cake, the toffee pudding, the chocolate & banana, and the dark chocolate bread pudding. The carrot cake is a modern interpretation that includes a cake made with grated carrots and served aside small scoops of carrot curd, walnut brittle and caramel ice cream. This is a delightful dessert. The toffee pudding is made with a puree of dates and is served with a toffee sauce plus some crème fraiche. The sweetness of the dates and the toffee is perfectly offset with crème fraiche. The chocolate & banana contains layers of chocolate and banana cake and covered with bananas, some drizzled dark chocolate and cashews. This is served with caramel ice cream. The last dessert that we absolutely loved was the dark chocolate bread pudding. The house made bread is mixed with two different chocolates and served with vanilla ice cream and cocoa nibs. For the chocolate lovers in your group this is a perfect choice.
During the evening the menu allowed us to create a wonderful tasting menu, I enjoyed eight different presentations in the pre-dessert courses and in the near future Chef Lewis will expand on this theme and present a four-course Farm Tour and a seven-course Chef’s Tour.
Overall this was a wonderful evening with superb food and I look forward to many more memorable meals at elm Restaurant.

Review was originally published on www.ctbites.com on April 1, 2012

elm Restaurant, 73 Elm Street, New Canaan, CT, 06840

203- 920-4994

www.elmrestaurant.com

Boulevard 18 – Delicious French Bistro in New Canaan

Posted on February 22, 2012 by jfoodeats

Un autre grand restaurant Français ouvre dans New Canaan. Oops, I got ahead of myself. What I meant to say was another fantastic restaurant, Boulevard 18, a French Bistro and Wine Bar, officially opened last Friday in New Canaan and the food is delicious.

The 62 Main Street address has been transformed into a little bit of Paris by owners Steven Semaya, Luciano Ramirez, Henry Rosenbaum and Chef/Owner David Raymer. The seating in the front bay window area with a single six person high-top table is in view of the spectacular wrap-around zinc-top bar that can serve up to fifteen customers. An additional five customers can drink or dine at a high-top table across from the bar. The dining room in the rear has been transformed into a Parisian Bistro and includes a beautiful antique map of Paris adorning the large wall overlooking the dining area. The acoustics are vastly improved with a noise reduction “tin” ceiling.

The opening night menu includes numerous “Small Bites” to enjoy with pre-dinner drinks, plus traditional appetizers and Entrée offerings. The “Small Bites” include Roquefort-stuffed Olives, Deviled Eggs, House-Made Gruyere Gougeres (small puffs of cheese pastry), House-Made Herb-glazed Nuts, and Devils on Horseback (dates stuffed with cheese and wrapped in bacon).

A large selection of Charcuterie, Cheeses and house-made Sausages, including Merguez, Boudin Blanc, Duck and Red Wine, and Seafood are offered as appetizers as well as a classic Steak Tartare, Brandade de Morue (a pureed salt Cod), Grilled Octopus, Boston lettuce or Frisee salads. For those who wish to enjoy the Fruits de Mer, Boulevard 18 serves Oysters, Clams, Shrimp, or Dry Sea Scallop Cru, singularly or on a Petit or Grande Plateau.

The Entrées include Grilled Leg of Lamb, Chicken Paillard, Roasted Salmon and a grilled fish du jour, plus an assortment of salads including a Salad Nicoise and a Salad of Duck Confit and Roasted Beets. Of course, the Boulevard 18 menu offers traditional Moules Frites and Steak Frites with either a New York Strip Steak or a Hanger Steak.

A traditional rendition of a Bistro classic, the Boulevard 18 Onion Soup au Gratin is a combination of chicken and beef stocks that present a mild and flavorful result. The onions are slowly cooked to release their natural sugars to a soft consistency and the soup is topped with a combination of Gruyere and Comté cheeses that were perfectly melted for a delicious result.

The Salad of Chopped Seasonal Vegetables is a cacophony of colors and flavors whose ingredients include lettuces, micro-greens, Gigante beans, watermelon radish, sweet peppers, carrots and tomatoes, all lightly dressed with a vinaigrette. The abundance of flavors creates a delightful combination and makes a delicious and refreshing lunch and, if desired, can include either shrimp or chicken. The Frisee Salad is delicious and is topped with a perfectly poached egg to complement the lightly dressed frisée and lardons.

The Seafood Sausage is delectable and I suggest that the table orders this appetizer to share so everyone can enjoy. The sausage is comprised of shrimp, lobster, scallops and bronzino, along with a little cream, but contains no bread. The texture allows for the various fish components to maintain their individual integrity and the flavors work extremely well together and are delicious. There is a slight ‘kick’ in the spice level which I found a great addition. The Bacon and Leek Tart is reminiscent of a slice of quiche with a delicious and buttery crust to encase the creamy and leek flavored custardy interior. The tart is served with a very lightly dressed and salted green salad.

Chef Raymer’s Steak Frites includes a choice of a delicious NY Strip steak or a Hanger steak, each perfectly grilled to my requested medium rare. The two cuts of meat are delicious, extremely tender with the Hanger Steak adding a deeper and richer flavor. The frites are incredibly crispy on the exterior with a light and airy interior. A light dusting of salt and pepper finish both the steak and the frites. Overall, both were excellent choices. The Duck Magret with caramelized baby turnips and a prune-Armagnac reduction includes a large breast that delivers a smoky and peppery taste, and is prepared rare, unless requested otherwise. The aged breast meat is incredibly flavorful and the sweetness of the reduction was a perfect complement to the richness of the meat. The caramelized baby turnips add another sweet element to the dish.

For dessert I enjoyed the Apple Tart and the Chocolate Mousse. The Tart is delicious. The buttery crust is topped with thinly sliced layers of apples with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce to complete. Each part is delicious and together this is a perfect way to end the meal. The Chocolate Mousse has a great texture with a soft and silky consistency. This dessert includes a small dollop of sweetened cream atop.

The wine selection includes over eighty French labels and there are twelve beers on the menu. The majority of the wines range from $30 to $80 a bottle, with a couple a dozen over $100. Over twenty wines are also offered ‘by the glass.’ Beer choices include Coors, Hoegaarden, Brooklyn, Czechvar, Allagash, Cisco Brewing and St. Peters with prices between $6-9. Aperitifs and cocktails are also available.

Many say that a review should not occur during the first few weeks after opening. But with the quality of the food leaving the kitchen at Boulevard 18 on its opening weekend I was glad I was able to enjoy many of their opening menu and look forward to many more meals at the newest addition to town.

Boulevard 18, 62 Main Street, New Canaan, CT 06840

203.594.9900

Originally posted on www.ctbites.com on February 19, 2012

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