I guess after making pizza for over fifty years, it comes as no surprise that one of the best pizzas in the greater New Haven area, as well as one of the best pizzas in CT, is made by Pasqual (Pat) DeRiso at Ernie’s Pizza. Pat is the second-generation owner of Ernie’s, which was started by his father and mother, Ernesto (Ernie) and Jennie De Riso, in 1971. Pat purchased the business in 1989 and now continues the family tradition, personally crafting every single pizza that comes out of the oven.

Located on Whalley Avenue, a few blocks south of Exit 59 of Route 15 (let others argue whether it is the Merritt or Wilbur Cross), Ernie’s is housed in a modest, standalone building marked only by a simple red and white sign that reads “Ernie’s Pizzeria Specializing in Pizza Since 1971.” Specializing…no truer words have ever been posted.

Ernie’s doesn’t always receive the same love and attention from New Haven pizza aficionados, perhaps due to its location, four miles (about 20 minutes) north of Wooster Street. I will state, without reservation, without a second thought, without even a moment’s hesitation: Ernie’s serves some of the most spectacular pizza you will ever enjoy.

With ample off-street parking, guests enter a single dining space that feels both welcoming and nostalgic. The room features ten booths that each seat four, a few cozy booths for two, and about twenty additional seats at standalone tables. Adorning the walls are pizza caricatures, a pizza peel commemorating Ernie’s 45th anniversary, and a photo dating back some 50+ years. At the center of the room is “Pizza Central,” where Pat stands as the centerpiece. From this vantage point, he lovingly stretches the dough, ladles on the sauce, spreads the grated cheese, and adds the requested toppings with care and precision. During my visit, I watched Pat craft pie after pie, each one made with focused attention and heartfelt pride. There’s no assembly-line feel, every pizza is a personal reflection of Pat’s dedication.

Even as a one-man pizza-making operation, Pat still finds the time to greet and chat with nearly every customer, whether at their table or picking up their order. He asks about families, shares a few laughs, and trades stories, many with regulars who’ve been coming to Ernie’s for years. When I asked Pat if he knew all his customers, he offered a sheepish smile and simply said, “I have a loyal following.” Even on my very first visit, Pat took time to visit my table, check in, and share a bit of Ernie’s history. We talked about his passion for quality, his commitment to making every pie meet his high standards, and what the future might hold. From a customer’s point of view, my visit was like hanging out at a friend’s house, catching up, shooting the breeze and having some great slices.

On to the pies.

Ernie’s offers three pizza sizes: a small (12”), a medium (16”), and a large (20”). I opted for the medium, split between meatball on one side and both sausage and pepperoni on the other side. Adding meatballs was a slight departure from my usual order, but my pre-visit research turned up one consistent note, Ernie’s meatballs were supposedly delicious. I had to find out for myself.

The pie was delivered by one of the servers, and it looked tremendous. The edges were slightly charred, just enough to suggest a well-fired bake. There was a generous layer of cheese, and I was required to look closely to distinguish between the two different toppings’ sides. The generous amounts of toppings also gave the first indication that there would be a good flop when I attempted to lift the first few slices.

The first sample was a quick taste of the crust. It had a mild flavor, a medium crunch on the outside, and a slightly soft interior. I next grabbed a sausage round. Pat uses Lamberti sweet sausage, which he first bakes and then thickly slices. As a longtime fan of Lamberti, I wasn’t surprised to find that the sausage slices were excellent, they were juicy, savory, and perfectly cooked. Then a taste of the pepperoni, it was crispy along the edge with a medium-level heat, and offered just the right amount of kick. They were also delicious. Finally, the big test, the meatball. Would it live up to my research? Absolutely. These house-made chunks of meatballs were moist, flavorful, and packed with a rich, beefy punch. They actually exceeded my expectations. The meats were a perfect 3-for-3. Next, I checked the underside of the crust, and Pat absolutely nailed it. It had that ideal medium-dark tan, signaling a perfectly balanced bake. As I pulled up the first slice, the melted cheese gave that beautiful, long, thin stretch, a classic sign of a well-made pie.

As expected, the slices were a bit tricky to lift, but my persistence paid off. If needed, plastic forks and knives are provided.)

The first bite of the meatball side was pure heaven, so much flavor and balance. The combination of crust, sauce, cheese and meat was nothing short of spectacular. I forced myself to slow down and savor every bite. It was a challenge, simply because you wanted more. Then came the sausage-and-pepperoni side, and it delivered just as brilliantly. The saltiness of the two meats, the creamy melt of the cheese, and the brightness of the tomato sauce created a rich, satisfying harmony. Curious about his sauce, I asked Pat, and he shared that it’s made simply from crushed tomatoes and seasoning, uncooked before hitting the stretched dough. That tomato freshness came through in every bite, giving the pizza the brightness to complement the cheese and meats.

Overall, I loved Ernie’s and is a pizzeria that should not be missed. The atmosphere and the pizza are great and then there is the owner and premier pizzaiola, Pat, who makes every visit special for every guest.

1279 Whalley Ave.

New Haven, CT 06515

(203) 387-3362