323 Main Street (Westport) – Looking for an Identity

Posted on September 28, 2013 by jfoodeats

After several visits, 323 Restaurant & Bar in Westport is a bar/restaurant looking for an identity. It is unclear whether this is a bar with a dining room, or vice versa. Equally unclear is the cuisine which includes Italian, Seafood, Southern, and simple grilled meats. The interior was converted from a neighborhood bar, Bogies, and now includes with a 66-seat dining area to the right and an equi-large room to the left with a U-shaped bar and tables. The décor is eclectic-rustic-formal with wood beams overlooking tables covered with clothes. HDTV with a ballgame on the wall in one room and art on the walls in the other. But most important was the experience. On a recent weekend night visit there were limited guests (4 tables) and the vibe was dull but the service was alive. I hope they can decide on a direction before it is too late.

As far as the cuisine was concerned I enjoyed some of the dishes, a few of the components in the others required a little attention (some of these items have already been modified from when I originally sampled) and others were not at all to my liking.

The “New England Clam Chowder” on one visit was one of the best chowders I have tasted…a great start to the meal. The creamy bisque was rich in flavors from the fish stock and included an abundance of clams. On a subsequent visit the broth was overly pungent, the clams were very chewy and the potatoes were mushy, almost as if it simmered too long.

The “Grilled Octopus” with Chorizo hash and olive tapenade delivered some excellent flavors and textures. The octopus was braised and then finished on the grill. It was extremely tender and the olive tapenade was a good complement. The hash lacked the appropriate spiciness and would have benefited from more chorizo to add additional spice. The menu subsequently eliminated the hash. The “Salad of Thumbelina Carrots,” et. al. was a big hit. Included in the potpourri of colors were breakfast radishes, beets, kumquats and avocados. Each was sweet and incredibly delicious; I loved the textures and flavors of each of these vegetables. I was not as fond of the ginger yogurt that accompanied the salad and thought it did not complement, and almost fought with, the sweetness of the vegetables.

The grilled meat entrees were the highlight. The best overall dish was the 323 Burger. Eight ounces of short rib and brisket blend was served with pancetta, onion jam, American cheese, pickles and 323 sauce served on a Wave Hill brioche. Served with French fries or onion rings, the burger was perfectly prepared, delivered great flavor and the accompaniments were delicious. The hand-cut onion rings were delicious but on my two visits the seasoning was uneven. The “Dry Aged Boneless NY Strip” was fantastic. It was served with broccolini with raisins, and pignoli duck fat potatoes. The steak, from Pat LaFrieda in NYC, was prepared perfectly and delivered great flavor and texture; this was one of the best steaks in the area. The potatoes were delicious; crisp on the exterior and creamy on the interior; I was not fond of the broccolini and raisin accompaniment which was undercooked. The “Salmon a la Plancha” with spring vegetable ragout, julienned pear and a black truffle sauce was flavorful. A simple salmon filet sat atop a variety of beans, peas and onions and hidden beneath the vegetables was the highlight of the dish, a truffle sauce. The sauce was earthy and delightful when paired with other ingredients.

Unfortunately there were an equal number of very disappointing dishes. My least favorite dish was the “Hand Cut Fresh Tagliarini” with Guanciale, English peas, spring onion and Parmesan cheese. The pasta was overcooked, gummy in texture and the sauce was lacking the richness I would expect from the description. The “Chicken Saltimbocca” was incredibly bitter and was returned to the kitchen. The Lobster Roll was non-memorable with limited meat and flavor and it almost joined the chicken in a return to the kitchen.

The desserts were all disappointing. On one visit the “Chocolate Torte” with butterscotch, sea salt and vanilla gelato was served with burnt edges and on a subsequent visit, the flavor and texture were lacking; the Panna Cotta with crumble was served two different ways. On one visit it was delicious and on a subsequent visit the crumble topping had a burnt flavor.

Overall the grilled meats and burgers that 323 served were delicious while the non-“grill” items did not deliver the same level of satisfaction.

323 Restaurant & Bar · 323 Main Street · Westport, CT. · 203.222.0323

Tony’s Deli (New Canaan) – My Go-To Sandwich Shop

Posted on September 26, 2013 by jfoodeats

Tony’s deli has two locations, Ridgefield and New Canaan, and the latter location is our go-to sandwich shop in town. With its recent relocation across the street to the storefront next to Zumbach’s, Tony’s is smaller but still serving some creative and delicious sandwiches and wraps. The sandwich menu is enormous, over 50 different pre-determined recommended combinations. Ordering a platter to enjoy with friends on a boat, by the pool or to snack on when buddies come over to play poker, I always go to Tony’s.

Over the years I’ve kept some of the combinations as Tony designed them, while others have been modified to meet the tastes of my friends and family. A few I really like:

My breakfast sandwich of choice is the Bacon, egg and cheese on a roll. A true classic, with a fried egg, a slice of white American cheese and a couple of strips of bacon on a seeded Kaiser roll. It may not be a difficult sandwich, but Tony’s does a great job.
White Russian – Roast beef, tomato, cole slaw, Russian dressing, bacon, horseradish and melted Swiss on a wedge. I was not crazy about the spiciness that the horseradish brought, so I started to order without. I like this version much better.
Ferrari – Fresh Mozzarella cheese, prosciutto, roasted peppers, olive paste, sundried tomatoes, pesto, fresh tomatoes, balsamic vinegar on a wedge. Like the White Russian, after a couple I was not that impressed with the Prosciutto and started ordering without. This vegetarian alternative is a favorite in the house.
New Canaan Rams Special – Roast beef, Russian dressing, horseradish, Cheddar cheese, lettuce and tomato. My alternative to the White Russian when I am looking for that English beef and horseradish combination.
Pine Street Special – Turkey, ham, roast beef, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, bacon, avocado and mayonnaise. This sandwich is full of flavor and the bacon and avocado add that salti-creaminess to a meat and cheese sandwich.
Right Off The Boat – Sopressata, imported Provolone cheese, cappicolo, sweet peppers (hot peppers are also available), tomato, onion, oil and vinegar. After one I gave up, Boar’s Head Italian meats just did not cut it for me.
Cranberry Turkey Wrap – Turkey, sprouts, tomato, bacon, Swiss cheese, Mayonnaise and cranberry sauce. This one has great flavor but gets a little messy with the mayo and cranberry sauce so ask for extra napkins
Russian Turkey Wrap – Turkey, Russian dressing, cole slaw, bacon, Swiss cheese and tomato. Put anything in a wrap and it is low-cal and healthier. If I need to avoid the wedge, this is my basic go-to wrap.

There are numerous grilled and breaded chicken sandwiches, but most of them are dressed with Blue Cheese and other dressings that are not my favorite. Maybe a little re-design of those in the future will bring them to this list.

NOLA Oyster Bar – Outstanding Seafood in SONO

Posted on September 8, 2013 by jfoodeats

I re-visited NOLA Oyster Bar a few months after its opening to enjoy some of the newest additions to the menu. Chef Dan Kardos is clearly in charge of the kitchen and his culinary talent is evident as he creates some of the most delicious cuisine in Fairfield County.

The Seafood Tower, a dedication to cold shellfish (plus tuna), was the first course served to our table. The generous portions included Cherrystone clams, snow crab legs, Copps Island oysters, shrimp, and charred Hamachi crudo. A house made mignonette sauce accompanied the oysters. All of the items on the Tower were delightful. The crudo was marinated in white and dark balsamic vinegar plus a combination of lime and tangerine juices; it was tantalizing. The crab legs and shrimp were sweet with just a touch of seasoning to emphasize the natural flavors. The Copps Island oysters were a little bitter with very little salinity, but the addition of the mignonette sauce drastically changed the flavor profile from bitter to delicious.

It is rare that I rave about a vegetable dish, but the Brussels sprouts at Nola were outstanding. Fried and then topped with a sweet maple glaze, it was almost impossible to stop eating them. Chef Kardos then added more crunch with a smattering of chopped pistachios and bacon. The Brussels sprouts should be a communal order to share and enjoy with everyone at the table.

The “Chopped Salad” included corn, peas, beets, wax beans, Brussels sprouts and topped with grated Queso Fresco cheese. This was no ordinary green salad; it offered several vegetables from Urban Oaks with differing textures and just a touch of spiciness. It was a delicious salad.

The “Cornmeal Fried Oysters” were served with collard greens, Jalapeño mayonnaise, Tasso ham and topped with a spicy corn relish. The oysters were crunchy on the exterior with a good sized belly that released the delicious liquor when bitten. The Tasso offered a smooth complement and sweet corn, pickle and red pepper relish was a perfect addition. The Jalapeño mayonnaise added just the correct level of spiciness.

The “Poached Lobster & Cornbread Waffle” is one of my favorite combinations in the area. It included butter-poached lobster, griddled scallions, Queso Fresco cheese topped with a brown sauce. The waffles were sweet, crispy on the exterior and moist and soft on the interior. The lobster was full of sweet buttery flavor, the scallions brought a little bitterness and the melted cheese created smoothness to the dish. The dish was finished with one of the best brown sauces north of the French Quarter.

My adventure through NOLA’S seafood continued with two other outstanding dishes. The “Shrimp & Grits” started with paprika dusted shrimp that were perfectly sautéed and paired with sliced Jalapeños to deliver a good kick. To mellow the flavors the dish contained slices of Tasso ham and all of these ingredients sat atop creamy grits. The “Griddled Scallops” were served atop a smooth and delicious celery root puree, and Chef Kardos changed the direction of a traditional scallop dish with the addition of several uncommon ingredients, strawberries and melon. The dish was further enhanced by a touch of honey, almonds, and finished with slices of speck. This was a great combination of flavors and textures. The honeydew brightened the dish and the honey brought sweetness, but I was not as excited about the strawberries.

To finish the meal, I sampled the “Chocolate & Peanut Butter Pot De Crème” that was topped with whipped cream and roasted peanuts, which was much too sweet for my palate. I was less enthusiastic about this dessert.

After several months, NOLA Oyster Bar has taken its position as one of the go-to restaurants in Fairfield County.

Really Liked

Brussels Sprouts
Poached Lobster
Shrimp & Grits
Fried Oysters
Griddled Scallops
Seafood Tower

Liked

Chopped Salad

Did Not Like

Chocolate & Peanut Butter Pot au Creme

This review was originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/9/8/nola-oyster-bar-revisiting-an-excellent-seafood-spot-in-sono.html

Los Poblanos (Norwalk) – A Little Gem with Excellent Food

Posted on August 27, 2013 by jfoodeats

Locating this little gem is a little difficult. If you are heading towards Westport on Route 1, make a right at the light where Pennzy’s Spice is located and Los Poblanos is one of the five storefronts immediately to your left. Park behind the building and enter from the rear. There are three four-person booths and a couple of tables. The walls are brightly painted adorned with regional posters and a Spanish language TV offers a little entertainment.

The menu is brightly colored with various Mexican offering. I wanted to sample Los Tacos and ordered four of them. Once delivered the first item I noticed was the amount of filling, Los Poblanos significantly fills the soft tacos. Green (cilantro) and orange (I would guess habanero) sauce accompany the tacos. The cilantro sauce was great and complemented the flavors and the orange was a little too spicy for my palate but had great flavor.

I decided to work my way from least to most spicy and started with The Carnitas (pork) taco. The cubed pork was simply sautéed and topped with diced raw onion and cilantro. The flavors were mild, and mine included a few cubes of pork fat. The addition of some on the green cilantro sauce created a great balance of flavor and very mild in heat.

The Pollo tonga (shredded chicken) taco was smothered in a red sauce that upon first bite I thought was too mild as well. But the heat of the pepper slowly arrived about 30 seconds later, no a burn, but a mild reminder that this was Latin food. The addition of cilantro again balanced the flavors.

Looking to increase the heat level I moved to the Chorizo (Mexican sausage) taco. I was a little surprised about two items, the presentation and the heat level. Normally chorizo is sliced to create circles, but Los Poblanos served their sliced in a julienne. Likewise the heat level was much less than expected, I would characterize these as a very mild chorizo but the flavor was outstanding. The taco was topped with sliced and diced onion

The last taco was the Al pastor (spicy pork). At last I found some spiciness. The same pork that I enjoyed in the Carnita was sautéed and then tossed with a spicy red sauce. This created a great depth of flavors with a good level of spiciness. This was my favorite taco of the four.

Overall I was impressed with Los Poblanos and look forward to returning and enjoy additional options.

Bodega Taco Bar (Darien) – Outstanding Tacos

Posted on August 10, 2013 by jfoodeats

A quick trip to Bodega Taco Bar in Darien was a great choice for lunch.

As I waited I ordered the original guacamole that is “Slapped to Order.” It arrived with a basket of house-made tortilla chips. The guacamole was delicious, but a little citrusy for my taste. It was chunky, with a good array of textures from the avocado, tomato, and jalapeños. The chips were more than enough for the portion size.

It’s lunch so Tacos were the choice. The question was…how many and which? I decided on four and chose one from each food group. I ordered (1) “Baja” – panko crusted mahi mahi, pico de gallo, lemon aioli, (2) “Cochinita Pibil” – slow cooked pork, refried beans, pickled red onion, cilantro, (3) “Crispy Korean Chicken” – red pepper paste, Asian slaw and (4) “Argentino” – hanger steak asada, charred onion, salsa de chili de arbol, cilantro.

In order of my preference. The Baja was my favorite. The crispy fried fish was fantastic, and the toppings made this a perfectly delightful, bright flavored taco. Close behind was the Argentina, in which the flavors were the opposite of the Baja. They were rich and deep and earthy which the cilantro popping the flavors. I had no idea what to expect with the Korean Chicken but the menu should add the word spicy somewhere to give a head’s up. This taco delivered quite a kick to the unaware palate. Once I knew about the heat, bite #2 was more enjoyable, but there was a drop from the first two in my preference. Again, my least favorite was the pork. It may be me as I am probably the only person I know that is not a fan of the pork at Bodega or Valencia. I find it very bland. I should learn to travel down a different path in all of my future visits.

I really like the vibe, the décor, the servers, everything about Bodega. It will definitely make the power rotation.

The Pig Ate My Pizza (MSP) – No He Didn’t…I DID

Posted on July 28, 2013 by jfoodeats

I was disappointed when I heard that one of my favorite restaurants, Travail, had closed. This was an incredibly creative group of chefs that consistently amazed me with their talent. But then I discovered that they were just modifying their approach. Of course the normal order of progression is moving from crudos, braises and burgers to pizzas, it is a perfect transition. Happens all the time. I questioned by sanity during the 12 mile drive that took 40 minutes, but my desire to see what this culinary group were cooking far surpassed the movement of Mickey’s hands on my watch.

I sat at the bar and the bartendress pushed the Cider Ham Rules pie pretty hard to all the guests but I first wanted a carnivore’s delight so the first pizza was the Piggie Pie. Normally served with a thick brioche crust, I opted for the thin-crusted alternative. The toppings included large slices of prosciutto, pepperoni and lots of sausage hidden under the cheeses. The flavors were outstanding. Each was delicious on its own with the saltiness and spiciness of the meats perfectly complementing the sweetness of the tomato sauce. Not to be outdone, the chefs at TPAMP used a cheese blend of provolone, parmesan, Asiago, and Gouda (plus one that I forgot) that created an incredibly delicious combination. But the kitchen still had a few tricks and flavors up their sleeves, they finished the pie with a little basil oil and then perked the flavors with a few baby oregano leaves. And let’s not forget the crust. It brought great flavor and texture.

With one down and my hunger not yet fully satisfied I acquiesced and ordered the Cider Ham Rules. Fortunately the restaurant was more filled at this point and the timeframe before #2 arrived was sufficient to regain some internal space. When it arrived, it was not as expected; it was more fully covered than the Piggie Pie. Adorning this pie were compressed apples, a fried apple chip, waffle fries, oyster mushrooms, and various cuts and renditions of pork. As much as I wanted to love this version to the same degree as the first, the sweet-savory combination left the sweet as an “also-ran” component. The flavors of both renditions of the apples were completely lost and the waffle fries were a cute addition but from a taste perspective, not to my liking. The rich, deep flavors of the pulled pork, chunks of pork, hoisin sauce and oyster mushrooms were outstanding and absolutely delicious. I thoroughly enjoyed the savory aspects of this pie, but not as a sweet-savory combo.

The staff and service were still Travail quality perfection. Knowledgeable, friendly, always available for a question and were spot on in each aspect of the service. Minneapolis now has another great pizza joint (the fourth on my list), when four years ago there were none.

The Juicy Lucy @ 5-8 Bar (MSP) is a Big 0-0 for Me

Posted on July 27, 2013 by jfoodeats

OK, maybe it’s me, but I just don’t get it. After several discussions and disagreements in the office on where to enjoy the best Juicy Lucy, I ventured back to 5-8 Club to see if I could be convinced that their burger was a great choice. This may be heresy to some, but this was not a meal that would make me rush back, in fact, it is more a DNR.

Let’s get to the positives. I think the joint is an incredibly friendly neighborhood watering hole. It is separated into two rooms, one with a bar and the other entirely tables, with the walls teeming with relics of the 40s 50s and 60s. I sat as a solo diner amongst single dads taking their young kids out for a bite, elderly couples splitting French fries and soccer moms racing to that open table. I was now firmly ensconced in pure Americana…a smile came to my face.

The waitress arrived, an energetic and incredibly hard-working high school / college teenager working for car money, college money or just entertainment money. She was great. The menu stated that the JL was 8-ounces, a pretty good sized patty, so my order was a JL with bacon and American, some fried onion straws, which I adore, a hot dog and an Arnold Palmer.

The fried onion straws were excellent. A huge mound of thinly sliced, deep-fried onions (enough for multiple guests) was crispy and perfectly salted. They were so good that there was no need to dip in any ketchup.

Good news over…

Now let me be honest about my view on the JL…the patty was just horrible. There is absolutely nothing positive I can say about the meat. First the size…the menu says “8 ounces” and I would be hard pressed to believe it was more than five ounces. Then the kitchen cooks the doneness to greater than super well done, bordering on incinerated, losing all chance that it will retain any juiciness. And the flavor was tasteless. So the burger meat receives the trifecta, three zeros on taste, preparation and size. And the bacon was a perfect complement to the burger, two meager slices of overcooked bacon. On a slightly positive note, I did like the American cheese, really well melted and with just a touch of pungency. The pickles slices were also a positive; the roll was a pretty basic, what was to be expected in a bar.

Now onto the hot dog. For full disclosure, I am a fan of a Kosher, natural casing dog so this was definitely not in my comfort zone. The hot dog was in the same category as the burger; an oversized, badly prepared “Ball Park” imitation; it was barely warm, and also served on a basic package roll. One bite and I was finished.

With so many other choices for great burgers in MSP, I would be hard pressed to place this on a top-25 places to have a burger.

Piccolo (MSP) – Food was Great; Staff was Dispicable Thee

Posted on July 15, 2013 by jfoodeats

I was incredibly excited when I finally secured a reservation at Doug Flicker’s Piccolo Restaurant. I entered with great anticipation for enjoying the creative genius of one of the most highly regarded chefs in the Twin Cities. The restaurant is small by comparison to many in the area, the front room seats approximately 24 guests primarily in banquettes that fill two of the walls. There is a large painting plus a mirror overlooking the area creating a warm, yet open environment.

The menu requires a little explaining. It is broken into five sections, with three choices in each. You can choose the five-course fixed price culinary adventure for $52 (one from each of the sections) or choose from any of the options to create your own individual experience. The portions are incredibly small, borderline Lilliputian; I would guesstimate a few bites would finish each of the dishes. The server does make mention of the size but even with that advanced notice I found them even smaller than I assumed.

I decided on three-courses that included (a) Soft poached duck egg with hazelnuts, smoked bacon, foie gras and pine cone syrup; (b) Dungeness crab “parfait” with hearts of palm, French breakfast radishes, crab butter and sea salt; and (c) Braised pork cheeks with figs, truffles, potato and lardo (different than the on-line menu).

As I waited, the server brought four slices of pumpernickel and some butter that was topped with a touch of sea salt. The bread was room temperature, not warmed prior to delivery, disappointing that such a simple step is missed. The flavors of the bread and butter with the touch of the sea salt were very good.

The duck egg arrived. From a visual point of view it was beautiful, but I was surprised there was no aroma; after one bite I understood. The egg was served at room temperature. I will give them the benefit of the doubt and that was the intent, but when I order a poached egg, I assume it would be served warm. When opened, the egg exuded the creamy yolk, but there was no seasoning at all on the egg; it was a bland, cold, previously poached egg. The hazelnuts were a good complement for both its texture and flavor but the miniature rasher of bacon was the only ingredient that I really enjoyed. This was a badly executed dish.

I was a little concerned about all of the positive press after this introduction, but the next two courses changed my view completely.

The “Parfait” was fantastic. A creamy custard lined the bottom of the jar with several pieces of Dungeness crab sitting atop and then a few slices of hearts of palm and radishes finished the glass-enclosed presentation. The dish was a decadent interpretation of creaminess and flavor. Dungeness is one of my favorite varieties of crab and this was perfectly prepared, moist, with delicious flavor; the chef did this mollusk justice. Not as pleasing was the crab butter and radish combination. I loved the breakfast radishes, it was a first for me, but the crab butter was very off-putting to the palate and reduced the enjoyment.

The “pork cheeks” was delicious. It was not multiple “cheeks,” but a small piece of a single cheek. Sitting next to the cheek was a small cube of potato and sitting atop were two small sections of the fig. All of these items were nestled in a creamy sauce. The combination of these ingredients was divine. The cheek was moist, flavorful, succulent and full of richness. The sweetness of the figs was a perfect complement and the texture of the potato added yet another level. Then the creaminess of the sauce offered and incredibly soothing addition. I only wish it was larger as this was one of the best dishes I have ever tasted. As an aside, I struggled to find the truffles or the lardo, but this was delicious with or without.

Unfortunately the service and staff were the polar opposite to the brilliance of some of the preparations. As much as my server was pleasant, the lightning pace of the meal was unacceptable. The three courses were delivered in less than thirty minutes. There was no time to savor, no time to contemplate, no time to reflect and no time to relax. It was get him in and get him out. I mentioned this to the server, who checked the tickets to confirm my point, and he apologized, stating it was his fault. This was the professional response.

Then my overall dining experience was completely destroyed. When I mentioned this to the manager (he approached the table), instead of a professional response or an offer for a relaxing cup of coffee or dessert, he confronted me, and his final words were, “I will just refund your money so you never have to come back.” His actions were totally uncalled for, entirely unprofessional and completely out of line. There is no reason for me or anyone else to be treated in this manner.

As much as the last two courses were some of the best cuisine I have ever experienced, there are too many great restaurants in the Twin Cities to eat…places who treat their guests with respect, and who understand good customer service. Piccolo’s staff needs some significant training before I would recommend or return.

Eat Street Social (MSP) – Great Potential

Posted on July 13, 2013 by jfoodeats

Located on the north side of West 26^th Street just west of Nicollet Avenue South, Eat Street Social is a very cool and hip restaurant with a good deal of potential. There is limited parking behind the restaurant and if you cannot find a spot in their lot, the parking is difficult. Once inside you are met by an eclectic staff who were extremely friendly and freely offered opinions on their favorite items. Most importantly they did not try to steer you to the most expensive items on the menu.

The interior is very well done with a small dining area in the back right quarter with a small bar, and a large u-shaped bar and dining room with small stage to the left. Through the latter is a patio that contains both a lattice-covered pergola plus additional tables with umbrellas. The chairs are comfortable plastic strapped wrap-around and seat approximately 50 guests.

The server informed me that the night’s Grilled House-Made Sausage was pork, potato and rosemary. The dish was served with whole grain mustard and buttered and grilled slices of baguette. I ordered this for my appetizer plus the Wild Acres Pan Seared Duck Breast with rainbow carrots, white bean puree, sugar snap peas, pea tendrils and topped with lemon plum vinaigrette for my entree.

When the two sausages arrived they looked different from each other. I sliced one (it was the potato version described) and it was delicious with a good spice level and a moderately dense texture. Unfortunately both the potato and the rosemary were overwhelmed by the other bold flavors. From a textural point of view the small dices of potato softened the texture of the sausage. When I sliced into the second link, it contained an abundance of diced tomatoes and no potatoes. The flavor and texture were also very different; a milder rendition from the potato version with a slightly denser texture, not benefiting from the diced potato. I asked both the server and the MOD what type the second was and the former was surprised that there were two varieties and the MOD told me there was only one type of sausage that evening. Sorry but there were two variety. Nonetheless I enjoyed both varieties, especially with a little dab of the whole grain mustard.

The Pan Seared Duck was an interesting dish. It was as if two different dishes were randomly combined. Was this a salad with the duck as the accompaniment or vice versa? The salad was composed of grape tomatoes, sugar peas, roasted garlic, several varieties of baby carrots, onions and chestnuts. The flavors and textures were outstanding, and the addition of the chestnuts was brilliant. The inclusion of the white bean puree was also a great idea; it added an earthy and creamy element. Unfortunately it was over-dressed, which detracted from the enjoyment. This salad, by itself would make for a great vegetarian entrée. The duck was nicely seared, finished to a medium rare and then topped with the lemon plum vinaigrette, which was more lemon than plum. The dressing brought citrusy back-notes to and complemented the richness of the duck meat. Unfortunately my duck breast was tough and the white tendon was still present throughout the breast, creating a difficult cutting and chewing experience. It is rare that I enjoy the salad much more than the protein, and this was one of those times.

Service was delightful. My server was spot on, water glass was constantly topped off and she checked in after the appropriate time. My only comment would be that neither the server nor the MOD knew that there were two different sausages on my plate and neither offered to check with the kitchen. When I discussed my thoughts on the duck with the manager he was extremely pleasant and we had a pleasant conversation about the dish.

Overall this was a very good restaurant with great potential. I would definitely return to try other dishes.

Overall – “Strong 7”

Mama’s Boy – Southern Hospitality in South Norwalk

Posted on June 27, 2013 by jfoodeats

After several visits to Mama’s Boy Southern Table and Refuge in SONO I can highly recommend this restaurant for its food and ambiance. Fairfield County native and owner Greer Fredericks, and her business partner Ami Dorel, bring a southern feel to the décor, and Chef Scott Ostrander is making his mark on the menu with some great dishes.

The “BBQ Pulled Pork” contained great texture and flavors that were accented with a touch of spiciness from the jalapeño corn pancakes. The Mama’s Bourbon Q sauce added a deep rich element to the dish.

The “Charleston Crab Cakes” were served alongside a medley of tomato, corn, butterbeans, and lemon herb aioli. The cylinder-shaped cakes were full of crab and the accompanying vegetables were a perfect complement for sweetness and texture.

The menu also offers “Deviled Eggs” with house-smoked Tasso, and okra pickles. The Tasso added smokiness to the creamy yolks, and the major difference between Mama’s and others is the pickled okra. Combining a piece of okra with the deviled eggs was like no other Deviled Egg I have ever tasted. The “Salt ‘n Vinegar Fried Oysters” were fried perfectly and were delicious with the addition of the vinegar.

The Soup & Salad contains two great options. The “BLT Salad” was delicious, but not a reduced calorie recipe. It included fried green tomato, candied bacon, artisan lettuce, and topped with a buttermilk-herb dressing. The combination of the sweet and peppery bacon, the crispy fried green tomato (a thicker slice would have been preferred) and the sweet field lettuces created a delicious salad.

The “Shrimp and Grits” is becoming their signature dish and it just kept getting better. On my latest visit the appetizer-sized dish contained three U-21 southern white shrimp, sitting atop Fall’s Mill grits, topped with house-smoked Tasso, spring onion, and finished with pimento cream gravy. The shrimp are sweet and the grits were fantastic; the texture was creamy with a little crunch.

True to southern cuisine, Mama’s offers its version of the traditional chicken ‘n waffles. “The Little Yardbird” includes pieces of hens that were first marinated in pickle juice and hot sauce and then deep fried. The result was an incredibly moist meat with flavor and texture from the crispy coating. Paired with the waffles, bourbon infused NY sorghum (I prefer a sweeter, more maple-y sauce) and braised greens.

SONO now has catfish on the menu. Mama’s Boy serves its “Corn Bread Crusted Catfish” with Carolina Anson Mills rice, okra, Vidalia onion and smoked tomato. The filet was moist on the interior and crispy on the exterior while the corn bread coating gave a sweet component to the fish. The sauce was delicious and contained dices of both okra and additional tomato; the rice was a soft textural complement to the dish. I added a few drops of hot sauce to give the dish a little kick.

The “Mushroom and Dumplings” is actually “potato gnocchi, exotic mushroom blend, herbs, and a sunny side farm egg.” The potato gnocchi were sautéed to achieve a crispy exterior and then combined with Mitaki, Oyster and Cremini mushrooms. Sitting atop was a fried egg, awaiting the release of its creamy yolk, which added a great flavor and creaminess when released. The seasoning was slightly off on the dish I sampled with the gnocchi under-seasoned, a little too much vinegar in the mushrooms and a little too much salt sprinkled on top. This is definitely a re-try for my next visit.

And save room for one of the best desserts, Mama’s Boy’s Pecan Cheese Cake. A creamy wedge of moist cheesecake was accented with a sweet topping of maple and pecans. This was a perfect way to end the evening.

Overall Mama’s Boy Southern Table and Refuge is an excellent choice in SONO. The food is creative, inventive and offers a new cuisine to the area and the atmosphere is relaxed, fun and very southern.

Mama’s Boy Southern Table & Refuge

19 North Water Street – South Norwalk, CT – (203) 956-7171

Really Liked:

BBQ Pulled Pork
Charleston Crab Cakes
BLT Salad
Shrimp & Grits
Little Yardbird
Pecan Cheesecake

Liked:

Salt ‘n Vinegar Fried Oysters
She Crab Soup
Corn Bread Crusted Catfish

Needs a revisit:

Mushroom and Dumplings
John’s Island Frogtown Stew

A more detailed review appeared in http://www.ctbites.com at

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/6/23/mamas-boy-southern-table-refuge-southern-in-sono.html

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