Gates (New Canaan) Reopens

ctb_gates_16_bar_fotorWhen is Gates opening? How many of us have been asked, and have asked others, that question?

Good news…the anticipated re-opening is almost here and CTbites was invited by the new owners to sample several of the items that will be featured on the opening menu.

Gates, an institution that opened in 1979 as the first restaurant on Forest Street, was sold last year, and many residents compared the closing to the loss of an old friend.

Residents who have enjoyed a burger and beer at the bar or a family dinner in the dining room should feel a sense of excitement when the doors re-open very shortly. Those who have longed for that burger and beer at the bar or a family dinner in the dining room will again enjoy their meals at Gates – and yes, the name will remain ‘Gates.’ Diners will also find comfort in the direction that the new owners are taking to maintain the modernized nostalgia of this New Canaan institution.

They told CTbites, with children in the New Canaan school system, they wanted to create an inviting atmosphere where families can go for a great meal, and adults can enjoy a burger and beer in the bar. “Gates has been here for 35 years and we want it to be here for another 35 years.”

Gates is part of a larger, historical New Canaan institution that dates back over 125 years. Before looking at the new Gates, let’s rewind the calendar to 1882, when Henry B. Rodgers purchased, demolished and built the current structure using 650,000 bricks that were transported to Stamford by boat and on to New Canaan. Formerly a shoe factory, Rogers converted the space to manufacture clothing for the newest rage of that era, bicycling. Over the years it housed a shoe company, a linen shop, a drug store and a beauty shop. The first New Canaan gas lamp was situated in front of the Main Street entrance and Rogers was one of the first four residents in town who owned a telephone. The building has been embedded in the history of town and will be for years to come.

The interior of Gates has undergone a complete renovation under the guidance of Company K, a New Canaan based interior design firm. It now showcases the previously hidden brick walls and wooden beams. The new layout presents an open kitchen with “kitchen-bar seating”, and wood-topped tables under a newly coffered ceiling gently illuminated by retro lighting. The original iron gates that previously adorned the hostess area have been reconditioned and are floating between the bar and the dining area.

The centerpiece of the new bar area is an amazingly striking, refinished crafted metal bar fabricated by local artisan, Chris Curnan. Wood and metal booths offer an urban vibe for those looking for a more casual dining experience. The beverage menu highlights a wide selection of beer, ranging from local CT breweries to international favorites. The glass-front refrigerator behind the bar sports additional large and small label selections. Live music will be an occasional addition when dinner service begins to wind down on Saturday nights.

ctb_gates_16_chicken_2_fotorThe culinary concept for the new Gates is American comfort that, “will bring passion, heart and soul to the food.” It will feature a wood burning oven for a selection of artisanal flatbreads, plus a wood burning rotisserie to slow cook a variety of meats and poultry, each prepared to “melt in your mouth.” While these items act as the centerpiece for many of the entrées, they will also serve as the foundation in all of the sandwiches on the lunch menu. The opening menu will include a burger and hand-cut fries, Rotisserie Chicken, and assorted fresh fish and steaks. Several of these items were served during the pre-opening tasting and were delicious, an excellent indication of things to come.

The new Gates will be a destination for adults and families seeking a delicious meal, sports enthusiasts seeking a beer and burger in the bar, beer lovers thirsting for a wide selection of international and local brews, and couples looking to end an evening with a little live music and a nightcap.

Stay tuned as CTbites continues to provide additional details on the re-opening of Gates.

10 Forest St, New Canaan, CT 06840

EOS (Stamford) – Contemporized Greek Cuisine in Romantic Setting

ctb eos 16 dessert 2Eos Restaurant opened in 2008 by Nikki and Jimmy Glekas and his mother Dina Glekas Loukrezis with the goal of serving contemporary Greek cuisine. Chef Minas Sotirakopoulos recently joined the EOS culinary family and Nikki Glekas invited CTbites to sample a few of the newest additions to the menu, which blends the family’s Greek heritage with modern-day flair.

The interior of the restaurant is relaxed and inviting. The single dining room features a banquette along the entire right wall with seating for twenty plus an addition thirteen four-guest tables, nicely spaced to allow for normal conversation. Above the banquette are photos from the family’s recent visit to Greece while the opposite wall is adorned with wavy modular art, creating a relaxed aquatic feel reminiscent of a seaside restaurant along the Mediterranean. The mood is soft and romantic from the indirect lighting in the tray ceiling and carefully spaced, yet unobtrusive spot lights.

ctb eos 16 beans 2The evening started with three selections from the Mezedes (small plate) section. My favorite was the Gigantes. The giant butter beans were baked and served in a rich tomato sauce, and topped with small chunks of feta cheese. The beans were perfectly prepared to maintain a touch of bite and delivered a wonderful earthiness that was complemented by the rich, spicy-sweet tomatoes. The feta added a mellowness to the robust tomato sauce. This simple 3-ingredient dish was bold and superb.

ctb eos 16 salad 2The Prassinos Pyrgos was an amazing salad. It included fresh baby spinach, feta cheese, dill, and scallions, layered between toasted sheets of phyllo and finished with sesame seeds and a honey balsamic vinaigrette. The presentation was beautiful. The baby spinach was complemented by the pungency of the scallions and dill, neither of which I normally expect in a salad…and they worked. The feta added a mild creaminess and the dressing elevated the dish with a delightful sweetness.

ctb eos 16 octopus 2The newest addition to the small plate section is the Ospriatha. The dish consisted of grilled octopus sitting atop a mélange of lentils, white beans, chick peas, fresh vegetables (that included peppers and cucumbers) and finished with lemon vinaigrette. The dish balanced the tender octopus with a variety of textures in the vegetables, which also offered just a touch of spiciness. The octopus, itself, was a little over-charred, which lent a mildly unpleasant burnt taste to the dish.

For the main course, the Chef Sotirakopoulos prepared a table-sharing adventure with three entrees, including the Lavraki, the Paidakia, and the Pork Souvlaki.

ctb eos 16 entrees 2The best dish of the evening was the Lavraki, which included a whole char-grilled and de-boned Branzino sitting atop a sheet of toasted phyllo, itself covered with a Kalamata olive spread, roasted tomatoes and onions. This dish was spectacular. The filet was moist and delicious, and when combined with the olive paste, tomatoes and onions created an overabundance of brilliant flavors. It was one of the best fish combinations I have eaten in quite some time. A small sip of the Muses Mouhtaro further enhanced the dish.

The other delicious entrée was the Paidakia, a char-grilled lamb rib chop. The chop was first marinated in olive oil and lemon juice allowing the meat to absorbed just a hint of citrus. The texture was soft, yet firm and the chop was perfectly charred to enhance the richness of the lamb. The chop was served with a variety of grilled vegetables including roasted red peppers, Portobello mushroom, eggplant and zucchini, which added great earthy and sweet contrasts to the meat. The chef also included a few of EOS’ long standing Lemon Potatoes, which were delightful. The Megas Oenos red blend was well paired with the lamb.

The third entrée, the Pork Souvlaki was the singular mis-step of the evening. The cubes of pork tenderloin were marinated in a lemon-oregano marinade and char-grilled. Unfortunately, they were over-cooked, dry and chewy and I was not a fan of the seasoning.

Our dessert consisted of a trio of Greek specialties. My favorite was the Baklava. The filling was very dense and included both walnuts and almonds, plus cinnamon. This mixture was nestled between sheets of phyllo, and drizzled with honey. It was one of the best Baklavas I have ever tasted. The second delightful dessert was the Millefeuille, a wonderful dark chocolate mousse, served with chocolate-covered phyllo. The smooth and chocolatey mousse was delicious and it was the favorite of others at the table. The dessert trio also included a house-made yogurt, served with orange segments, strawberries, blueberries, all sitting in a small pool of honey. The yogurt was delightful, dense and was a great canvas for the sweet berries. Save room for all of these desserts. We enjoyed a split of Blink sparkling wine with the desserts.

Overall I really enjoyed my visit to EOS. The hospitality of the Glekas family is second to none, and the family’s hands-on dedication to the flavors of Greece are evident in each dish. Add a wonderful atmosphere in a lovely room and EOS is a restaurant I will return to often.

Really Liked

Gigantes (Butter Beans)

Prassinos Pyrgos (Salad between Phyllo)

Lavraki (Bronzino)

Paidakia (Lamb Chop)

Baklava

Millefeuille

Liked

Ospriatha (Octopus)

Yogurt with fruit

Did Not Like

Pork Souvlaki

490 Summer Street – Stamford, CT 06901

(203) 569-6250

Sunset Grille (St. Thomas) – Great Potential

Up and down a winding road to this off the beaten path bar-restaurant at the Secret Harbour Resort serving some pretty good food. It is divided into two areas, a bar with tables and a separate dining room overlooking the water. We decided on the restaurant side and the eight of us were seated at a very quiet table.

For my starter I decided on the Conch Chowder. It was a true chowder with lots of vegetables nestled in a broth. It was delicious. The broth was light (bacon would have really elevated the broth) with a good amount of flavor. There was a scant amount of conch and it was more a vegetable chowder than a conch chowder, but it was still delicious.

I chose the Seared tuna for my entrée. The sesame crusted tuna log was sliced and fanned over juliennes of three peppers, green, yellow and red. A smidgen of edamame puree and a finger full of mango gastrique joined the tuna on the plate. A separate plate of soy, wasabi, pickled ginger and rice was part of the presentation, sorta a do-it-yourself sushi. The tuna was perfectly prepared to rare, maybe very rare, which was perfect for me. It was rich in flavor, but was screaming for a complementary flavor. A little wasabi and ginger plus a dip in the soy created a delightful combination. I am not sure why the chef included the mango and edamame, first because it was less than a ¼ teaspoon of each and second, it was a completely different profile than plate #2. But the one bite that included the mango and tuna was outstanding, and a larger portion of both in lieu of the soy-wasabi plate would have created a delightful presentation.

For dessert we decided to share an order of pineapple upside down cake and an order of cinnamon bread pudding. I thought both were good, not great. If you are looking for a powerful end, then order the pineapple and if you are a big fan of cinnamon, the latter.

Service was spotty. During the order process our server was spot on then he was the invisible man. Several times we needed to go to wine bucket and bring the bottle back and pour our own wine. Since we were 8 people the 20% was already in the bill so there was no incentive for anything other than minimal service.

Overall it was a fun night with very good food. Would I return? Absolutely, it is St. Thomas not NYC and for the island it was a wonderful location with pretty good food.

Old Stone Farmhouse (St. Thomas) – Major Disappointment

Several years ago we journeyed to the Old Stone Farmhouse for a memorable meal. The food was delicious and the surroundings beautiful and after dinner we enjoyed a small combo in the courtyard. We wanted to return. The drive to the restaurant from the East End is a bit harrowing on a dark, winding road, and the turn onto the driveway needs complete concentration, but when you enter the building it is well worth the last quarter-mile.

Since our last visit, the chef and the management have changed, and neither was for the better. The highlights of the latest meal were the building and the server, who was outstanding throughout the meal. We arrived at 730 on a Saturday and by 815 we were the only table still in attendance, a bad omen and it was strange that with three separate rooms ours was the only one occupied.

The menu is divided into three sections with appetizers, salads and entrees. To start, the table ordered a couple of flatbreads, with toppings that change daily. The toppings that the chef was using on our visit included beef, jalapeño peppers, onions plus other vegetables, topped with an Asian hoisin-style sauce. The combination was not to my liking. It felt as if the kitchen decided to chopped the remnants of the ingredients from other dishes and piled onto the flatbread. It was a mish-mash of flavors.

For my appetizer I ordered the Local Fish Crudo (it was Mahi Mahi on our visit) served with sweet chili aioli, pickled jalapeño, radish, and watermelon. The plate was an wooden mini-artist’s paint palate. The cubed Mahi was spread across the upper edge, topped with a few thin slices of jalapeño pepper and thinly sliced radishes. At first glance I did not see the fresh fish under the two other toppings. Alongside the fish were small cubes of watermelon. The fish was very fresh, and very lightly marinated, barely a hint of citrus was evident. The peppers added a little spice and the watermelon a touch of sweetness. It was a basic combination of some regular components; good but nothing special.

I ordered the Grilled Pork Chop for my entrée. It was served with a smoky garlic polenta, pickled peaches, roasted vegetables with a drizzle of a bourbon peach reduction. It should more accurately as a large pork filet, the bone was removed and it was cut into four thick slices, and served atop the other components. I ate one of the end pieces first, my first impression was that it was a bit over-seasoned with salt and pepper. As I moved to one of the interior slices I saw that one half of the slice was medium and the other half raw, I was not about to eat raw pork. I spoke with the manager and the server and she immediately removed it. When it returned the two interior slices were now well-done and the other end slice was still half cooked, half raw, the kitchen did nothing to correct that slice. I was not amused and it was removed from both the table and the bill. I would classify the kitchen’s attempt to repair their mistake a complete failure on their part and the manager never returned nor offered his apologies.

Others enjoyed their entrees, which including the scallops, duck, Mahi Mahi and the special of the evening the Bolognese.

For dessert I ordered the black cherry cheesecake. It was an individual serving with the berries both embedded in the cake and a couple of squirts of sauce on the plate. It was creamy and very good.

Overall it was an incredibly disappointing visit to the Old Stone Farmhouse. The flatbread was horrible and the crudo was not to my liking. But the fact that the kitchen saw the pork was half raw after slicing it and still served it and then compounded this mistake by knowingly overcooking two of the three pieces on its re-fire and again serving the original slice of half raw pork is completely and totally unacceptable. While the manager was quick to remove the offending plate, he had zero follow-up. When it was sent back a second time, he should have come to the table. We were literally the only occupied table in the entire restaurant.

Mistakes happen and how a restaurant handles that situation is important. Serving raw pork was strike 1, returning the dish with well-done and raw was strike 2 and the manager lack of attentiveness was strike 3. The one star that is earned by the restaurant on this visit was the server, the only professional on site the entire evening.

Pirate’s Bite (Norman Island) – Great Place for Lunch

 

After a less than enjoyable lunch on the Willy T last year (no we were not expecting much) we decided to return to Pirate’s Bit this year for lunch. After docking the boat we wandered over to the newly rebuilt building and grabbed a table overlooking the water.

There were several large boats docking and we ordered quickly to stay ahead of these impending large orders. Even with our haste, the wait for the food to arrive was over 30 minutes, just a head’s up that you can easily plan for two rounds of drinks prior to the food’s arrival.

I ordered the grilled pork sandwich. It was served on a baguette and was delicious. It was accompanied by a spicy sauce and slaw, that added a nice crunch to the sandwich. French fries accompanied the sandwich and they were perfectly fried.

Service was excellent.

 

Overall it was a wonderful lunch on the beach on Norman Island on our way to the Soggy Dollar.

 

 

Oceana (St. Thomas) – Still Outstanding

Oceana SnapperEach year when we visit St. Thomas we schedule our special dinner at Oceana. Located within an historic building on a southern point in Frenchtown, Oceana blends the beauty of the building with incredible food. According to the website, the estate was settled in the 1670s and in 1894 converted to the Russian Embassy.

Drink orders were taken and delivered and the bread service commenced. I was a little disappointed in the butter. They were butter pats individually wrapped in the gold foil, a la a NJ diner. At these prices it was a major flaw in the dinner and management should be ashamed of itself for this decision.

For my appetizer I ordered the KURABUTA PORK BELLY AND DIVER SCALLOP, described as “Molasses Braised Pork Belly, Brown Butter Seared Scallop, Baby Spinach, Crispy Parsnip and a Spicy Tomato Jam.” It arrived on a long rectangular plate with the scallop and belly occupying the ends, respectively, and were separated by a dollop of spicy roasted tomato gastrique. I decided to work from the lighter side and started with the scallop. It was delicious, perfectly seared on both sides and when lightly dipped in the tomato jam created a wonderful combination. I was less enthralled with the cube of pork belly. The meat was flaccid and flavorless and there was barely a hint of the molasses. Dipping in the sauce made it barely passable, nowhere close to its plate counterpart. It was completely out of character with the preparations I have enjoyed over the years.

The special entree for the evening was a surf and surf, freshly caught red snapper plus seared gulf shrimp, served with purple potato mash and butter beans. The snapper was excellent, beautifully seasoned and prepared, with a touch of crispiness on the exterior while moist and juicy on the interior. They worked perfectly with the potatoes and beans that added a touch of earthiness. The issue with the shrimp was that they were sitting next to the snapper. They were very good, maybe a little under-seasoned, but the snapper was just outstanding.

Others ordered a variety of entrees and one needs a special mention, not for the centerpiece but the accompaniments. The garlic shrimp were served with “Asiago Grits” and a “Local Season Pepper Gastrique.” The grits were outstanding and the sauce was spectacular. The sweet and spicy balance was divine; this was one of the best gastrique I have ever tasted.

I ordered a trio of ice cream for dessert. Be advised that the amount of the trio is probably half in total of a regular order of ice cream. The three flavors were chocolate, apple-cinnamon, and almond. The chocolate was a light chocolate. My favorite was the apple cinnamon which was delightful.

Service was exceptional, spot on and not invasive.

Overall it was a wonderful dinner. Many restaurants back in the US can learn excellent food and service from Oceana.

Waterfront Bistro (St. John) – Great Flavors & Service

Waterfront Bistro (St John)For our swan song dinner in St. Thomas we decided to take the ferry from Red Hook to Cruz Bay in St. John and dine at Waterfront Bistro. The 15-minute ride is $7 per person each way. The restaurant is located a short 5-minute walk from the dock and offers a nice view of the water from most of the tables.

After we were seated our server asked for the drink orders. We brought a bottle of Champagne and two bottles of wine with us since the restaurant offers a BYOB option with a $20 corkage per bottle. The server, Amanda, opened and poured the Champagne and throughout the entire evening was the epitome of great service. Major kudos to her.

For my appetizer I ordered the Shrimp Ceviche, served with tomato, onion, lime, cilantro, avocado, and served alongside fried blue corn tortilla chips. The ceviche was a combination of all of the ingredients mixed together and served as a mound on the plate. The chips sat in a swath of wasabi. The flavors were bold, almost too bold, and a little different than I expected for a ceviche. After each bite I appreciated the boldness of the flavor combination, but missed the delicateness of the shrimp. This was not a citrus/fish-focused interpretation.

My choice of entrée was the Crispy Duck Breast & Leg Confit, that was accompanied by true wild and basmati rice, Vietnamese scented ‘pho’ broth, and tamarind glazed baby bok choy. A duck breast was sliced and fanned over the rice and bok choy with the “pho” broth slowly poured over the dish when served. The breast was cooked to medium, a little more than ordered, but the meat was delicious. The broth was divine and was the polar opposite of my appetizer, it showed a delicate touch with the star anise. The rice was all basmati, all white with no wild rice evident. It was very good and would have benefitted from the earthiness of the wild rice, too bad it was missing. The bok choy was a great accompaniment to the duck and broth.

Overall, I really enjoyed our visit to the Waterfront Bistro.

 

 

 

 

 

Blue Water Grill (NYC) – Great Food & Atmosphere

We were looking for a new restaurant for the family to try in the Union Square area and after some research decided on the Blue Water Grill. There were reservations available, the on-line menu contained items that would work for everyone and the interior photos looked like the restaurant offered a high-vibe atmosphere.

The restaurant occupies a building that formerly housed a bank, the first floor is somewhat narrow, with the bar in the front with both stools and tables, a large dining area behind, plus a balcony in the rear that contains 40-50 seats. There is a separate restaurant on the lower level with live jazz, the same menu, and a separate reservation is required. We arrived for our 730 reservation and were asked to give them a few minute since the table was not quite ready. After a five minute wait we were escorted to a great table on the second floor balcony overlooking the first floor, which we preferred since the noise level was more moderate, allowing for conversation.

Our server immediately approached and asked for our water preference and let us get settled in. Upon her return she asked for our wine or cocktail orders and we chose two dirty Tito martinis and a diet Coke.

The menu is very focused on seafood. The entire top half describes raw bar items, plus sushi, sashimi and maki rolls. There is one soup (changes daily), two salads and other small plates, plus about fifteen larger selections, again mainly seafood focused.

I ordered the Mini Fish Tacos with red cabbage slaw and Hass avocado ($12.00) for my appetizer and the Brown Butter Roasted Grouper (the on-line menu states Halibut) with Szechuan peppers, wheat berry, Tuscan kale and chimichurri ($30.00) for my entrée. The three others at the table ordered the Greenmarket Salad, served with caramelized pecans, radishes, green apple, and finished with shallot vinaigrette ($13.00) and for their entrée they each order the Crispy Skin Faroe Island Salmon, with baby bok choy, tatsoi and miso yuzu emulsion ($29.00).

The tacos arrived on a 6-inch square cedar plank, yes they were mini. The tortilla was whole grain with a small piece of fish, avocado, slaw, a thin slice of jalapeño pepper and a sprig of cilantro. There was great flavor in the tacos, the slaw and fish were nicely balanced and the pepper was a complement to the other ingredients. The three salads that my family ordered were large, filled with a plethora of ingredients and they agreed it was a great salad.

The entrées were delicious. The wheat berry salad was blended with a vinegar based sauce, plus a bit of butter, both were delightful complements to the fish. The Tuscan kale was sautéed and was a great addition as well. The biggest drawback to the dish was the fish pieces that were chosen, they were two scraps, instead of a single larger filet. The “fish sticks” were irregular in shape causing areas to be perfectly cooked, while other sections were over cooked. I could not taste any of the Szechuan pepper (this may have been a good thing) and the small dollop of Chimichurri lightly covered one of my fish sticks, and its vinegar could be tasted in the wheat berry. The salmon were each a nice sized filet with the crispy skin as described and my family loved the combination of flavors.

For dessert we shared a Flourless Chocolate Layer Cake with candied kumquats and orange gelato ($11.00). It was excellent, with the addition of some chocolate crunchies throughout and the gelato was incredibly creamy, and mild in its orange flavor, allowing the cake to remain the centerpiece of the dish.

Our server was very friendly, did not rush us during the ordering phase and was very efficient in receiving the orders. Unfortunately, while all of the tables around us received bread, we were never offered bread, and we needed to ask for it after our appetizers were served. More disturbing was the timing of the courses. We were barely finished with the appetizers when the entrees arrived, there was no pause between the courses, plate off, plate on, a major timing mistake by the staff and kitchen.

Overall, the evening at Blue Water was a great time with family and food. The chef combined great, complementary flavors that were delicious. I do resent the pieces of grouper the kitchen selected for my entrée, trimmings should be discarded served in a $30 dish and the lack of downtime between courses, but otherwise, Blue Water was one best evenings in several years.

Brasitas (Stamford) – Delicious Wine Dinner

brasitas_15_duckBrasitas restaurant is an oasis of quality Nuevo Latino Spanish cuisine in the east end of Stamford. Founded in 1999 by the late Jaime Guerrero, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York, the bustling restaurant continues Jaime’s legacy through his family, who now oversee this location and its sister restaurant in Norwalk. Jaime’s vision of creating a vibrant atmosphere to showcase his dream of melding Nuevo Latino cuisine with the authentic Latin American traditions of his native Columbia is alive at both locations and the love is evident in the food and his children who continue his tradition.

Brasitas_15_exteriorThe Stamford location welcomes its guests with a brightly colored interior that immediately transports the diners from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding neighborhood to a Latin cantina. With fifty seats and a separate bar area, the vibe is upbeat and a perfect backdrop to the vibrant cuisine.

Brasitas recently hosted a Holiday Wine Tasting Dinner and invited CTbites to join fifty other revelers as they enjoyed Lapostolle Wines from Chile. The winery produces organic certified wines, with over 200,000 cases produced annually.

brasitas_15_salsaAs the crowd gathered, fried plantains and salsa were brought to the table. The salsa was delicious, a great balance between the onions and tomatoes with just a whiff of cilantro. When combined with the crispy plantains, it made for a relaxing way to spend time meeting others at the table.

brasitas_15_chicoryThe first dish to arrive was the “Ensalada de Endiva,” a salad comprised of a slice of fresh Burrata topped with grapes, Cape gooseberries, Marcona almonds, julienned chicory and a splash of aged Jerez vinegar. It presented great textural differences amongst the crispy chicory, the almonds and the creamy Burrata. The grapes and gooseberries were a delightful sweet-sour addition…but it was the earthiness of the almonds that was the key to the dish, elevating all of the ingredients. It was served with a Casa Lapostolle, Sauvignon Blanc 2014, which was a bright and crisp wine.

brasitas_15_oxtailThe next dish to arrive was the “Estofado de Rabo y Calabaza.” Served in a glass jar, it was a layer of Argentinian Parmesan polenta topped with cubes of braised oxtail intermingled with an acorn squash ragout. There was a great balance between the deep, rich flavors of the braised oxtail /acorn squash ragout and the polenta, with a touch of spiciness in the ragout. This was paired with a Casa Lapostolle “Cuvee Alexandre” Merlot, 2012, which is the label’s flagship bottle, and placed the vineyards on the global map. It delivered a light to medium flavor with the oxtail.

brasitas_15_bass_2The dinner moved back to a lighter course with the “Merluza.” A filet of Chilean sea bass sat atop layers of cauliflower risotto and a sea urchin emulsion, topped with pickled cauliflower florets and a small piece of sea urchin. The combination of the risotto and the emulsion was my favorite of the evening, further elevated with the addition of the small piece of sea urchin. The cauliflower was a delightful addition with a little crunch and sparked the dish with its sour notes. Unfortunately the fish was overcooked and did not offer that wonderful juiciness that I expected. It was served with a Casa Lapostolle “Cuvee Alexandre” Chardonnay 2013, a wine that is aged half in stainless steel and the other half in French oak, to offer a little nuance of the oak.

brasitas_duck_2For the last of the entrées, the chef prepared a “Pato Ahumado.” The sliced duck breast was served aside a purée of parsnip topped with a foie gras-quinoa croquette and topped with a parsnip and kumquat chutney. This was an explosion of flavors and textures and my favorite dish of the evening. The smoked duck breast was served medium-rare to allow the richness of the duck to shine. The chutney was a splash of flavor from the kumquats, which offered a fantastic sour contrast to the meat. The parsnip purée (becoming a staple on many menus) was delightful. The foie gras was a playful addition, appearing as a cracker until cut and then the melted foie gras oozed over the sweet purée. It was paired with a Casa Lapostolle “Cuvee Alexandre” Carmenere 2012,which is the Chilean equivalent of a Merlot.

brasitas_15_chocolateTo complete the evening dessert, the “Crema de Chocolate y Turron” included a slice of a Valrhona chocolate cremeux, a scoop of Cabernet sorbet, plus hazelnut turron and a swath of passion fruit. The cremeaux was luscious, creamy with a wonderful chocolaty-ness. When combined with the crunchy, earthiness of the turron and the sorbet, the flavors worked in complete unison. Unfortunately, the passion fruit and the cremeaux seemed to fight with each other, both too bold to work together. The wine for this course was a Casa Lapostolle “Cuvee Alexandre” Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, which was also one of the ingredients in the sorbet.

Overall, the atmosphere was uplifting and alive, the service very good and the Latin-fusion cuisine vibrant and delicious. I look forward to returning and enjoying many more items from the creative and inventive menu.

954 East Main Street – Stamford, CT 6902

203-323-3176

The location has extremely limited on-street parking, but the restaurant offers a valet on Lincoln Avenue just to the left of the entrance.

Really Liked

  • Plantains with Salsa
  • Cauliflower Risotto & Sea Urchin Emulsion (It needs a special call out)
  • Oxtail, acorn Squash Ragout and Polenta
  • Duck Breast with Parsnip Puree

Liked

  • Chicory and Burrata Salad
  • Chocolate Cremeaux

Needs Improvement

  • Chilean Sea Bass

The Cottage (Westport) – Great Start for Great Food

Cottage ExteriorChef Brian Lewis, one of Connecticut’s most influential chefs and celebrated for being on the cutting edge of the state’s dining scene, opened his new restaurant, The Cottage, this past weekend. It is Chef Lewis’ second Fairfield County restaurant, redesigning the space that formerly housed Le Farm into a charming 44-seat establishment in the heart of town. Known for his thoughtful and innovative dishes that garnered him accolades from The New York Times, Esquire and Connecticut Magazine, The Cottage features his highly revered seasonal American cuisine in a warm and relaxing environment.

The Cottage reflects Chef Lewis’ vision and represents his desire to produce a premier neighborhood destination serving the finest, locally sourced cuisine. The menu will be updated weekly paying homage to local farmers and artisans in the region that share Lewis’s commitment to exceptionally sourced and quality seasonal ingredients. “My wife, Dana, and I have fallen in love with Westport over the years, spending so much of our free time here with our boys, Jude and Jax. The food scene here, the community of chefs, and farmer’s market have always been a big part of my day to day life.”

Upon entry, a vintage factory window sanded to its raw steel greets the guests to the intimate restaurant, as arched top white wood mirrors create the illusion of more space. White wooden walls with dark grey accents, authentic oak wood floors stained white, and an antique mahogany bar dating back to the early 1900’s offer an ode to style influences of the past and Northern European tradition. Imported from Lille, France, the bar frames the kitchen with original brass brackets and finial details with glass shelving. Four wooden chandeliers exude warmth throughout the dining room, while aged wooden tables with custom painted chairs strategically occupy the floor. Fabric sconces highlight the hand hewn thick beams that grace the perimeter, as two industrial factory pendant lights in vintage style hover over the bar’s counter. A combination butcher block and Carrera marble counter offers four additional seats with a glimpse into the busy kitchen.

cottage_15_eggs_&_baconThe opening menu included hand-crafted dishes that were artful, yet approachable. Appetizers range from the simple Copps Island Oysters with Yuzu, and Ginger Mignonette, and Maple Bacon & Eggs with Robiola Cheese, to the more complex Sautéed Foie Gras with Vanilla Quince, Smoked Macadamia Nuts and Huckleberry. One of Chef Lewis’ perennial favorites, the Italian Chestnut soup spiked with Cognac, which I sampled at one of his pre-opening gatherings, was outstanding. The flavor, texture and richness of the soup was exceptional. With three pastas including Kabocha Squash Agnolotti, Foie Gras Cappelacci with Drunken Prunes and Almonds and Spaghetti with Lobster, the menu offered a glimpse of the creativity of the cuisine.

cottage_15_spaghetti_lobsterI was fortunate to secure a table for Saturday evening and enjoyed several more of Chef Lewis’s inspired dishes. For my first course I ordered an appetizer-sized Lobster Spaghetti with sea urchin and Calabrian Chili. The pasta was a fantastic canvas the accompanying flavors. The chilies added a mild level of spiciness and the combination of the sweet lobster pieces and the richness of the sea urchin was a great combination.

cottage_15_bunsBefore our entrées arrived the two of us shared the Wagyu brisket steam buns with Napa cabbage kimchi and duck fat potato tempura. When the plate arrived it was topped with two buns, several slices of brisket, sauce, aioli and the kimchi. I spread the sauce and aioli on the bun and added the meat and vegetables. The brisket was fall-apart tender and full of rich flavor. The kimchee added a nice offset to the meat and the sauces added a little creaminess. A touch of sweetness was added by the soft buns.

cottage_15_short_rib_pieThe four opening weekend entrées included Cod, King Salmon, a pork rib roast and a Short rib cottage pie. I decided on the Cottage pie, which included a small kettle filled with the short rib and topped with mashed parsnip/potato and Cipollini onions. They were accompanied in the presentation by a bowl of roasted carrots. The meat was fork tender, earthy and outstanding, smothered in a rich, silky sauce. The parsnip-potato purée added sweetness to the meat and the roasted carrots were a wonderful complementing texture and more sweetness. The dish was delicious.

The beverage program includes a robust collection of boutique wines from around the globe, served by the glass or bottle, to pair perfectly with Chef Lewis’ culinary style.

“Our cuisine is inspired by classic and modern cooking techniques, with a constant pursuit of finding the very best ingredients available,” Lewis continues. “The menu celebrates cultures of Italy, Spain, France, Japan and most importantly, our direct Northeast region so I am thrilled to finally open our doors to the Westport community and to the friends who have followed my career to this point.” After my first of many meals at The Cottage I am also thrilled.

The Cottage will be open for dinner from Tuesday through Thursday (5:30pm – 9:30pm), and Friday through Saturday (5:30pm – 10:30pm).

256 Post Road East. Westport, Connecticut, 06880