Harvest Wine Bar (Greenwich) – Outstanding Opening

Posted on April 14, 2013 by jfoodeats

Harvest Wine Bar, located on the lower end of Greenwich Avenue, elevates the restaurant offerings in downtown Greenwich to a much higher level. The Sigueza brothers, Vicente and Kleber, can now add another fantastic restaurant to their portfolio, which includes Cave Wine Bar in New Canaan, Scena Wine Bar in Darien and 55 Wine Bar in Fairfield. A beautiful casual dining space in the front area is dominated by a large brick wall and accentuated with wood tables and chairs. You can continue walking to the rear of the restaurant and enjoy the long bar or tables, all with views through the large west-facing windows lining the entire rear wall of the restaurant.

Overseeing the kitchen is Chef Eben Leonard who is migrating from Scena Wine Bar where CTbites enjoyed his creativity and culinary talent on numerous occasions. His opening menu combines aspects from southern Europe with a modern twist to American classics. “Snacks and Shares” to enjoy at the bar include a creative short rib mac and cheese, carpetbagger oysters with beef carpaccio, and grilled pork tenderloin sliders. ”Starters” include salads, crudos and seafood. The entrées (“Seconds”) include several pasta dishes (I was assured that theof other Ricotta Gnocchi Bolognese from Scena is duplicated), but the emphasis of the menu is wood-fired, grilled meats, poultry and seafood.

I sampled three of the appetizers and two were outstanding.

The “Shaved Brussel Sprout Salad” with a Parmesan risotto cake and truffle vinaigrette is delicious. The tower of Brussel sprout rests atop a warm parmesan risotto cake, surrounded by a small dollop of parmesan sauce. The focus of the dish is the shaved, raw Brussel sprouts, accented with olive oil, lemon, truffle oil and parmesan. The Brussel sprout and Parmesan cheese combination is a tremendous flavor combination; the bittersweet Brussels sprouts work exquisitely with the saltiness of the Parmesan cheese. Texturally, the dish includes the crunchiness of the raw Brussel sprouts, the cake’s exterior and slight bite from the risotto offset by the creaminess of the cake’s interior and the Parmesan sauce.

The “Scallop Crudo” with blood orange segments and topped with shredded Kombu (Japanese kelp) salt and micro greens is delightful and incredibly light. The mild flavors of the scallops are pleasantly complemented by the saltiness of the Kombu. The blood orange segments add a slight sweet-and-sour to the dish with a small amount of citrus. This was my introduction to Kombu and it reminds me of shredded beef jerky, offering a hearty saltiness. The addition of a few micro-greens adds a level of freshness to the dish. This is also an wonderful start to the meal.

The “Charred Octopus” with red wine braised lentils, bacon, avocado, sweet Piquillo peppers and cherry tomatoes was not to my liking. The octopus itself is delicious, but the rest of the ingredients do not add to the overall dish; overall it lacks textural contrasts and many of the flavors meld together versus complementing. The bacon, peppers, tomatoes and cilantro attempt to add contrast and flavors but the avocado is subsumed by the lentils.

Both of the two entrées that I sampled were outstanding.

My favorite of the two entrées is the “Wood Grilled Veal Chop” with creamy spinach, veal raviolis, baby carrots, truffle red wine glaze and a touch of parmesan. Chef Leonard told me he sells “a ton” of this entrée and after one bite I completely understand. The chop is perfectly grilled and seasoned, beautifully moist and full of a delicious veal flavor. The spinach is a perfect complement to the veal, slightly creamy with a deep flavor and the veal ravioli are delicate, which pairs well with the red wine glaze. To add a sweet component, the dish includes a few sweet baby carrots atop the chop. Overall this is one of the best veal chops I have tasted in a while.

The “Wood Grilled Salmon” with cranberry beans, kale, preserved lemon and charred tomato vinaigrette brings a new dimension to a basic dish. The preparation differs from so many in Fairfield County where a simple grilled salmon filet and vegetables are served. Yes Harvest’s is grilled salmon, but the other ingredients add a totally different flavor profile to this interpretation. The kale and cranberry beans bring earthiness; and then the preserved lemon increases the dish’s complexity with citrus to take the palate in a different direction. This is a salmon presentation to satisfy both sexes.

And for those interested in one of the best hamburgers in Fairfield County, Harvest delivers. The “Harvest Burger” is comprised of grass fed, all natural beef (from Minnesota), with Applewood smoked bacon, crispy onions, smoked tomato mayo, Grafton cheddar on a toasted English muffin, served with “everything fries.” This could be the best flavored meat in Fairfield County, a deep rich flavor and with enough fat to absorb a good level of smokiness. The thick cut bacon adds more smoke and saltiness and the smoked tomato mayo augments with just a touch of flavor to the muffin. I was initially suspect of the “everything” seasoning on the fries; but after several fries I am a fan, the poppy seeds bring a new flavor dimension to the traditional salty fries.

Harvest has a few fun desserts to end the meal. The banana split sundae includes a brownie (which is actually Chef Leonard’s grandmother’s recipe), with two scoops of ice cream, one of peanut butter cup and the other espresso nugget, and topped with strawberry sauce, chocolate sauce, chocolate covered espresso beans and nuts. I really like this dessert and what else needs to be said about a sundae, other than it is a great frozen treat and a perfect and relaxing way to end the meal.

After a few months, Chef Leonard and Harvest Wine Bar are preparing some excellent dishes. From crudos to pastas to grilled steaks and chops, the food at Harvest will make this a go-to restaurant in Greenwich.

Shake Shack (Westport) – What Happened?

Posted on April 6, 2013 by jfoodeats

What happened to Shake Shack? What I enjoyed during their opening week when I reviewed for http://www.ctbites.com, has completely fallen from favor, or should I say flavor. The Shack Burger is now some flavorless meat, cooked to medium-rare at least, with two slices of under-ripe tomatoes, a little lettuce on a soft bun. The bun is the best part of the burger. Hard to believe Meyer let this happen. And the fries are better than the opening week, but it is hard to get excited about some frozen crinkle fries thrown in oil and not salted.

Too many other choices in the area to want to go back.

Brennan’s (Stamford) – Disappointing Burgers

Posted on April 2, 2013 by jfoodeats

I really wanted to enjoy Brennan’s, something about a local haunt that supposedly serves great burgers. Unfortunately my tally or the four bacon cheeseburgers was…three overcooked, one raw and only one with bacon. There was a certain looseness and tenderness to the texture of the meat that indicated that the burgers were hand formed on-site. Nice crust on burgers I really enjoyed the flavor of the sirloin meat with its nice, rich, deep flavor did not deliver the juiciness I was expecting, omitted bacon from both burgers. The onion rings were crunchy and the interiors were soft and moist with a good onion flavor. The waffle fries were also crispy while still moist on the inside.

Overall, it could be much better if the grillmaster would just deliver as ordered

Terrain (Westport) – Burger Better than Responsiveness

Posted on March 29, 2013 by jfoodeats

We arrived and were impressed with the interior space. Unfortunately it overlooks the yard and the garbage outside the windows was a bit distracting and should be addressed.

A warm bread loaf in a pot was brought. The bread was very good and still warm.

I ordered the Café Burger described as Painted Hills Beef, caramelized onion, mushrooms, Cheddar cheese, and horseradish aioli, served on a brioche roll. This is an enormous and vertically demanding burger. The meat is ground on premises and had an interesting texture, more pieces than ground beef. Some, including me, may not like the texture, it was almost a gelatinous feeling. The caramelized onions were perfect…they were soft, sweet and delicious. The cheddar was a good addition and complemented the rich flavors of the beef but the mushrooms were lost in the other flavors, they were not needed. The enormous swath of aioli was a great addition and the Brioche from Balthazar in NYC, was first grilled and it added a nice, sweet flavor to offset the bold flavors of the other ingredients. The skin-on French fries were very good, nicely seasoned, crispy on the exterior and soft on the interior.

Overall it was a very good burger, but could use a little adjustment of the textures and the ingredients to improve.

My wife ordered the lobster roll. The lobster was mushy and did not taste right. She experienced some post lunch issues and I contacted the restaurant. The manager scolded me, told me that she and others ate the lobster that day, but said she would look into and call back. I never heard back from her. I was very disappointed in her lack of caring, and no follow up is unacceptable.

It might be understandable if the kitchen has a bad day, but more often than not, the reason for non-returns and “doesn’t like” relates to the management. At Terrain the burger was pretty good, the lobster roll was bad and management was unresponsive.

Little Pub (Ridgefield) – Tasteless Burger

Posted on March 28, 2013 by jfoodeats

The place was hoppin’ when I arrived for my medium rare bacon-cheeseburger with sweet potato fries. I sat in the protected outdoor area and watched other guests seemingly enjoy their lunches. The restaurant was very understaffed and I felt bad for the servers who were running around, but each maintained an incredibly pleasant attitude under some pretty difficult conditions. Management should be ashamed.

The burger arrived, and I cut it in half. The interior was a little overcooked, probably more medium but was oozing juice. After one bite I knew looks were deceiving. The meat was juicy, but that is where the good news ends. There was no char, no flavor, no seasoning, nothing to separate from a basic diner slap on the flattop burger. The two slices of bacon were thick but overcooked and again flavorless, and the cheese was basic store bought American. The burger was served in a grilled Kaiser roll and again, no flavor, bland. And Little Pub is consistent. The sweet potato fries were crispy, but without flavor or seasoning.

Overall, there is nothing in this experience that is causing me to return.

Nola Oyster Bar – First Bites

Posted on March 25, 2013 by jfoodeats

Several weeks ago I announced on CTbites the opening of Nola Oyster Bar in South Norwalk, described as a seafood restaurant with dishes from Maine to New Orleans. After my initial visit, it is apparent that much of the food is influenced by the great flavors and traditions of New Orleans, but the creative interpretations are singularly of Chef Dan Kardos.

Exposed brick walls, wood and tin columns, and wrought iron rails dominate the interior with white “antique” chandeliers hanging from the ceiling to create a very New Orleans visual. The front area includes a large, arced granite-topped bar that seats 10, plus a large reclaimed “Bankers’ Table” that seats an additional eight guests overlooking the floor to ceiling windows. The center section of the restaurant overlooks the kitchen, plus the rear room is available for regular dining or a private event.

Nola Oyster Bar is a place for fun, drinks and great food.

The kitchen is under the direction of Chef Dan Kardos (The Whelk, Harvest Supper). The menu is divided into four sections: raw bar, small plates, salads, and entrees. The starters include raw oysters, clams and tuna Crudo, chowder, gumbo, seafood pan roast, tacos, mac and cheese, plus greens and sides with traditional salads and other unique combinations. The entrées include two burgers (tuna or beef), tacos, sandwiches, shrimp and grits, scallops, skate and several meat options.

The “Tuna Crudo” is a delightfully light choice to start to the meal. Thin slices of tuna are topped with a sauce comprised of soy, hot sesame, jalapeño and candied ginger. While a sesame-soy combination is a traditional accompaniment to raw tuna, Chef Kardos takes the dish in a unique direction with the addition of the candied ginger. This sweet component creates a distinctive and delicious flavor combination when combined with the saltiness of the soy and the spiciness of the diced jalapeño.

The “Black Kale Salad” includes pears, sautéed squash, toasted hazelnuts, and pepitas and is another delicious dish to start the evening. The kale has a rich earthy flavor plus a touch of bite, and the crunchiness of the dish increases with the toasted pepitas and hazelnuts. The thinly sliced pears are a great addition to the dish, bringing a wonderful level of sweetness. The entire salad is beautifully dressed in a light citrusy dressing. I really enjoy how the sweetness of the pepitas and the pear complement the earthiness of the kale. The squash, unfortunately, does not add to either the flavors or the textures of the dish.

For a soup with a hint of spice, Nola Oyster Bar offers a delicious “Spicy Seafood Gumbo” with shrimp, oysters, clams, mussels, and Andouille. This rendition would make the French Quarter proud. A deep rich base made with a dark roux brings deep, rich flavors when combined with the delicateness of the traditional seafood additions. The oysters and mussels bring brininess to the gumbo, and the shrimp add a touch of sweetness. The spiciness of the Andouille sausage kicks up the heat just a little. I would characterize the flavor as sweet-spicy, but not too intense.

The “Poached Lobster & Cornbread Waffles” is the decadent option that combines breakfast and dinner. Chef Kardos’ begins with two delicious cornbread waffles topped with large pieces of succulent, butter-poached lobster. These are surrounded by one of the most flavorful brown sauces that I have ever tasted, reminiscent of those served on New Orleans’ famous Grilled Shrimp. The dish is garnished with a few grilled scallions and finished with Queso Fresco cheese. The waffles are wonderfully sweet, crispy on the exterior and moist and soft on the interior. The lobster is perfectly poached and full of sweet buttery flavor and texture. The scallions bring just a touch of bitterness and the melted cheese creates smoothness to the dish. This is one of the most memorable lobster dishes I have tasted in a very long time and should not be missed.

Remember the raves of Chef Kardos’ hamburger at Harvest Supper in New Canaan? The “Saugatuck Butchery Dry Aged Burger with Hand Cut Fries” at Nola is even better. It starts with dry aged beef from Saugatuck Butchery and then topped with slices of Sugardale bacon, XO Beemster cheese, oak tree shitake mushrooms, black pepper mayo and served on a Challah roll from Wave Hill Bakery. The flavor of the meat is outstanding and the toppings are perfect complements. The cheese is flavorful and the sautéed mushrooms add an earthy tone. The thick-cut bacon is perfectly cooked but I found it a little too salty for the other ingredients. The sweet Challah roll and the pepper mayo are both great ways to envelop this fantastic burger. The hand-cut curly fries are scrumptious, fun and a wonderful addition to the burger; and the burger is a fantastic accompaniment to the unique varieties of beer.

The draft beers feature eight unique varieties including Maine Beer Company Mean Old Tom Aged Stout, Two Roads Workers Comp Saison, Founders Dirty Bastard Scotch Ale, Green Flash West Coast IPA, Oskar Blues Dale’s Pale Ale, Schlitz Lager “60’s Formula,” Berkshire Brewing Drayman Porter and Sixpoint Brewery Righteous Rye Ale. Ten wines are available by the glass, plus forty wine labels ranging in price from $28 to $100.

After a couple of months Nola Oyster Bar is producing some incredibly delicious food with inspired twists on New Orleans’ classics.

This was originally posted on March 24, 2013 at

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/3/24/nola-oyster-bar-brings-seafood-to-south-norwalk.html

Sycamore Drive-In (Bethel) – Go for the Buzz

Posted on March 22, 2013 by jfoodeats

The Sycamore Drive-In is a throwback to the ages where teeny boppers listened to the Big Bopper and Elvis was too risqué. As you pull into the lot, don’t be surprised if you see a real T-Bird, a Vet or another souped-up car from the 50’s or 60’s sitting next to a hand built roadster.

Go inside and sit on a red vinyl covered seat, grab a menu and view what a diner meant fifty years ago. Eggs, pancakes, burgers, dogs, salads and specials. You almost expect to see a “Blue Plate Special” scribbled on a chalkboard to one side, but that would interfere with the life-sized cut-out of “the King.” And you would also expect a gum-smackin’ red-headed waitress in a poodle skirt sashaying up to the table for your order.

There is nothing special about the menu. I ordered a cheeseburger with lettuce and tomato, some fries and a root beer. The root beer was really good, but the rest was basic diner grub. The fries were frozen crinkles and the burger contained more iceberg lettuce than meat and cheese. As much as this is a relic and fun to visit the burgers are not that good. Go for the buzz not the burger.

EOS (Stamford) – Delicious Greek Cuisine

Posted on March 10, 2013 by jfoodeats

EOS, the Greek goddess of the dawn, signifies the beginning of a new day. EOS Greek Cuisine, an upscale Greek restaurant in Stamford owned by the Glekas family, recently introduced its new menu and invited CTbites (along with several other bloggers for what we nicknamed “Bloggers’ Row”) for a tasting of several of these items. All of the dishes are based on family recipes with slight modifications to modernize the dishes while maintaining their Greek roots.

The tasting included three MEZEDES (Small Plates), a SALATE (Salad), and three KYRIA PIATAS (Entrées).

My favorite Mezede was the “Feta Saganaki” that featured a thick slice of feta cheese crusted with sesame and poppy seeds, fried and topped with a drizzle of peppered honey. This is a delightful dish. The cheese is slightly melted and contrasts texturally with the crispy exterior of the sesame and poppy seeds. The honey adds a cooling and smooth texture. The addition of the peppered honey elevates the flavor of the dish significantly and is the key component to the overall flavor of the dish.

The “Mydia” included P.E.I. mussels that were steamed in white wine, ouzo, butter, garlic and finished with fresh herbs. The size of the Mussels range from small to medium, yet each are cooked to perfection. The accompanying broth is mild in flavor, slightly accented with just a touch of garlic, which does not overwhelm the delicate flavor of the mussels. This is a good start to the meal.

The “Veggie Moussaka” and the traditional meat Moussaka were, unfortunately, not as good as the other appetizers. The traditional version includes layers of zucchini, eggplant, potatoes, beef, and topped with a béchamel cream, while EOS’ vegetarian version substitutes lentil and mushroom for the beef filling. I give kudos to EOS in developing a vegetarian alternative of this classic Greek dish, but the Béchamel is too dense and would benefit from a lighter and more airy rendition. Likewise the meat and the lentil/mushroom layers are under-seasoned.

Vibrant flavors were presented with the “Eos Sliders,” described on the menu as spiced ground lamb patties with caramelized onions and a roasted red pepper sauce, served on whole wheat buns. The lamb sliders were some of the best I have tasted. Contrary to the menu’s description, the lamb is surprisingly mild, the caramelized onions are soft and sweet, and the red pepper sauce adds yet another sweet component. The rustic flavor of the whole wheat buns is a perfect means to envelope these sliders. The EOS sliders are delicious.

The “Kypro Salata” with mixed greens, grilled zucchini, mushrooms, eggplant, red peppers, Haloumi cheese and balsamic vinaigrette was a pleasant surprise to this non-salad lover. This dish is elegant in its simplicity while simultaneously delighting the palate. The flavors of each of the ingredients are delicious and the combination of the sweet red peppers, the slight peppery flavor of the radicchio, the sour of the balsamic and the saltiness of the cheese create an absolutely perfect balance. This non-salad fan is completely sold on recommending this dish for the table to split.

The three entrées included two winners.

My favorite was the “Lahanodolmathes,” ground beef and rice stuffed cabbage leaves enveloped in a creamy lemon sauce. It tastes much better than it looks and the first bite will bring a smile to your face. The lemon sauce is creamy and flavorful with the perfect amount of lemon to complement the other ingredients. The cabbage is soft, with just a touch of resistance, and the dense meat and rice add another textural element to the dish.

The “Papia,” a char-grilled bone-in half duck, black cherry and red wine reduction with pine nut rice was delicious. The roasted thigh-leg portion is moist and tender with a deep flavor and the sauce is delicious and its sweetness is a perfect balance to the rich and fatty duck. Unfortunately, the rice is bland and would benefit from the addition of a sweet component to better complement the full flavors of the other ingredients. Both the Lahanodolmathes and the Papia are delicious and recommended.

The “Ksifias” (char-grilled swordfish kebab with lemon potatoes) was disappointing. The large cubes of swordfish were overcooked and under-seasoned and required a good splash of lemon to add flavor. The onion slices were extremely pungent and overpowered the other ingredients. I did not enjoy this dish.

Overall, the new menu at EOS Greek Cuisine has many dishes that are outsanding and a few that need some additional work. If you order correctly, you will feast on incredibly delicious dishes from EOS’s modern twists of great Greek family recipes.

Really Liked:

EOS Lamb Sliders
Kypro Salata
Lahanodolmathes – Stuffed Cabbage
Papia – Duck with Cherry Sauce

Liked:

Mydia – Mussels
Feta Saganaki – Feta cheese with Honey

Did Not Enjoy:

Veggie Moussaka
Moussaka
Ksifias – Swordfish

EOS Greek Cuisine

490 Summer Street – Stamford, CT 06901 – 203-569-6250

This review was originally published on http://www.ctbites.com at http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/3/3/eos-greek-cuisine-in-stamford-revamps-menu.html

Riko’s Pizza (Norwalk / Stamford) – Outstanding Pies

Posted on March 1, 2013 by jfoodeats

I consider myself very fortunate in my historical relationship with pizza. Born and raised in NJ where the local pizzeria created $1.60 pies (yes that is under two-dollars for the entire pie, not a slice), I graduated to the “Bar Pie” at Star Tavern and Pizzeria in East Orange, before leaving the Garden State in my late teens. While in College in D.C. I found Greek-style pizza and then graduate school in Chicago introduced me to two eye-opening events…the Giordano’s Stuffed Deep Dish pie and the Midwest propensity to cut their pies into little squares.

I hit the jackpot on my move back east with my marriage to a women from the New Haven suburbs and her presenting my all-time, favorite, best pizza…Sally’s in New Haven. Never did I appreciate the classical flavors and textures until then. I was fortunate to share a table with Flo shortly before her death and enjoyed both her pizza and her stories. One of my first assignments for www.ctbites.com four years ago was to give my opinions of the iconic Colony Pizza in Stamford. It was a classic full pan pizza with a thin crispy crust, basic toppings and their secret ingredient, hot oil. One bite and I understood the beauty of this creation. Take a little bit of this theory, add a little bit of that theory…delicious.

When I heard that a new kid in town was “duplicating” the Colony-experience I needed to test this theory. Riko’s Pizza originally opened in the same neighborhood as Colony and many claimed “foul.” But for me, it was less about the ownership of “The Recipe” and more about the product. Others agree, since Riko’s has expanded to a second location on Newfield and a third location on Main Street in Norwalk.

After a couple of Riko’s pies I am glad they have a location near my office as well as nearer the house. Both offer the same quality pizza…delicious. Those from the Norwalk and the Newfield locations are twin sons of different ovens. The pies are baked in high rimmed pans, reminiscent of the Chicago deep dish pan. The dough is stretched to the circumference and then topped a little sauce, and then you design the rest from almost 30 different toppings (Colony has twelve to choose from). I consistently stay basic with pepperoni, sausage and hot oil, hey if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

The thin crust was nicely crisped, not cracker and stilled maintained a degree of pliability. The sauce and cheese were delicious and the pepperoni and sausage were both excellent. Then the hot oil kicked in and this was an overall fantastic pie. Just make sure you have a ton of napkins since the pie is oily by itself and then adding the hot oil raises it to another level.

If you do not want to make the trip Colony, you will be just as happy with the pies at Rikos, just remember there is no seating so all of these pies are take-aways.

Butcher & The Boar (MSP) Approaches Perfection

Posted on February 21, 2013 by jfoodeats

The Butcher & the Boar has been on my must-try list for a few months and with only one dinner in Minneapolis for this visit I decided to pull the trigger and make a reservation. Coincidentally, the James Beard Foundation announced its 2013 nominees that day and the Butcher & the Boar was nominated for Best Restaurant. Call it Karma, call it divine intervention or call it pure dumb luck, I call it a sign from the culinary forces that I made the correct choice.

Driving through artic conditions of 5-degrees plus a stiff wind I was grateful when I arrived at 12th and Hennepin and saw valet parking on the side of the building, only accessible from 12th Street. Upon entering you are greeted by an enormous bar spanning the left wall, serving thirty beers on tap, a wide variety of wines plus an assortment of blended cocktails, with various cute names. There are a few tables to the left of the bar, sort of tucked away from the main action; some would say these are either the B-list tables or the quiet tables. I think these are a good choice for some quiet conversation. There is a single large table tucked into an alcove across from the bar on the way to the main dining area, which is large and open. The interior is very cool.

The menu is broken into appetizers and salads, in-house prepared meats, plus entrées of meats, poultry and seafood. A separate menu of sides completes the options.

I ordered the “Turkey Brunschweiger, Vidalia Onion Jam and Milk Stout Toast” for an appetizer, the “Double Cut Berkshire Pork Chop with Pineapple Rum Glaze, Macadamia Nut Salsa” as an entrée plus the “Skillet Cornbread.” All of these were recommended by the server, who was spot on in her knowledge and guided me through the menu and the sheer volume of food it represented, “these dishes are normally split” was her challenge.

The appetizer arrived quickly. I was first impressed with the small glass jar that contained the turkey liver mousse, there was a small layer of fat on top, a great way to preserve as well as deliver added flavor, the Vidalia onion jam was neatly placed on the plate and the milk stout toasts arrived in a small, rectangular bowl. A small spoon protruded from the Brunschweiger and my first taste informed me that the night would produce some special flavors. It had an incredibly deep flavor, liver on overdrive, absolutely delicious. Placing a small amount on the toast and then topped with just a touch of the onion jam created an extraordinary balance of flavors and textures. The smooth, richness of the mousse, the sweet jam and the slight bitterness of the toast perfectly complemented each other. Now the fun began as I played with various combinations. I found that placing the jam on the toast and then the jam gave a slightly different flavor profile and then placing the two toppings side-by-side implanted even a slightly different flavor profile. The one consistent feature was that each bite was fantastic.

When the pork chop arrived I sat in awe. This was the largest pork chop that has ever graced my plate. It was 3-4” in height, sitting proudly in the pineapple sauce, with the nut salsa perched on top. The size would rival any NY steak house. I carefully sliced the longer arced side so my first taste would contain both meat and just a touch of fat. The meat was incredibly moist, served medium, slightly pink throughout, and the texture was perfect. The first bite confirmed my thought from the appetizer; the flavors for the evening would be extraordinary. This was an incredible piece of meat, first brined, so the saltiness was evident, but smokiness was the primary flavor; and this was Berkshire pork, known for juiciness, fat content and fully capable of handling the long and slow cooking processes. The sweetness of the pineapple rum glace was a perfect complement to the salty-smokiness of the pork, Texas meets Hawaii. As much as the Macadamia nut salsa delivered great flavor contrast, the soft texture of the Macadamias was not to my liking, I would have preferred more crunchiness.

The skillet cornbread was nothing special; in fact mine was a little burnt on the bottom. The flavor was basic, there was no textural contrast (I prefer the inclusion of corn kernels) and the depth of flavor was not present. If not for the addition of butter, I would classify the cornbread as dry. With the other choices available I would recommend going in a different direction on the side.

Service was excellent. My server knew the menu, was willing to make recommendations, understood the size of the dishes and guided me to a more reasonable order. The one major drawback was the pacing. I am not sure if this was caused by my dining solo, but the appetizer arrived within minutes after the order was placed and the entrée arrived within one minute of my finishing the appetizer. I felt incredibly rushed. There was no time for relaxing, digesting or just contemplating. I prefer a 5-10 minute interlude as a single and 15 minutes as a couple or group. Hopefully this was the exception, not the rule.

Overall the two main components of the meal were outstanding. The appetizer was extraordinary and the pork and sauce were perfect, but given the salsa, cornbread and the pacing, there is still room for improvement.

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying

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