Li’s Brothers (Norwalk) – Not so Good

Posted on May 13, 2014 by jfoodeats

Some colleagues in my office recommended Li’s Brothers, so I decided to give it a try.

With a friend on his way to join me for a quick lunch in the office before a meeting, I ordered fried dumplings, General Tsao Chicken and Moo Shu Chicken. None were available under their Lunch Special menu, so each of these were full sized portions. First, the portions are very large, you can easily share a single order.

From the top:

Dumplings – there are six dumplings to an order. They were lightly crisped on one side. These were not very good. They were under-cooked, very doughy and had very little filling. It was similar to biting into raw dough.

Moo Shu Chicken – A large portion with several pancakes. I decided to first try the chicken without the pancake. One bite was enough to convince me that the Moo SHu Chicken was not to my liking either. There was an incredibly bitter flavor in the chicken, and the overall dish was not very good.

General Tsao Chicken – I did not have high hopes for this dish after tasting the other two. The dish was also a large portion, served atop a large mound of broccoli. It was primarily fried crust covered with an over-sweet sauce. The scant amount of chicken was intermingled with pieces of chicken bones and cartilage. This was the worst of the three dishes.

I was really hoping I would like Li’s, but I would be hard pressed to return.

Olio (Springdale) – Still Fantastic One Year Later

Posted on May 11, 2014 by jfoodeats

I’ve been pretty lucky with two visits to Olio Restaurant in Stamford over the last few weeks; each delivered some outstanding cuisine. The first was a quick stop for a burger to complete my update of the best burgers in Fairfield County and the second was a dinner visit a week later.

Co-Owner Moira Hyland met our party of four at the door, showed us the table and was the perfect hostess throughout the evening. The server approached and asked for water, soda or wine and explained the specials for the evening. Two of them sounded delicious and I ordered both. The appetizer was a baby greens and beet salad and the entrée was a pork chop with pickled ramps and succotash. Others at the table ordered a variety of salads and they all chose the gnocchi with Bolognese for their entrées. We let Chef / co-owner Steve Costanzo work his magic in the kitchen.

The salads arrived and they were all very generous in size. My salad included an array of locally grown baby greens tossed with walnut pieces, roasted beets, all dressed with a honey thyme mustard vinaigrette. The salad was perfectly dressed and focused on the wonderful, natural flavors of the greens. The beets were sweet and the walnuts added both an earthiness and a textural contrast with its crunchiness. I highly recommend this salad and the others at the table were as enthusiastic about their choices.

The entrées arrived and mine was a large single 10-ounce French cut pork chop nestled in a house-made succotash of fresh peas, corn, zucchini, red peppers with roasted plum tomatoes a little white wine, chicken stock and butter. The chop was topped with pickled ramps (they were pickled earlier in the day). The chop was perfectly cooked, moist on the interior with a great spice-rub finish. The sweetness of the fresh vegetables were a great complement to the pork and then the ramps kicked in to deliver tremendous flavor to the overall composition of the dish.

The Ricotta Gnocchi with Bolognese was a very generous portion. The gnocchi were delicious, with great texture and the Bolognese was one of the best I have tasted since my Bolognese search last year. It delivered rich flavors, a great balance of sauce to meat and was a delightful complement to the mild gnocchi.

As dessert approached, I highly recommended the donuts to the table and we also ordered a molten chocolate cake. The donuts were as I remembered, absolutely delicious and the molten chocolate cake, served with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and few berries. This was also an excellent dessert, a chocolate-y delight.

Olio remains one of the best hidden gems, and I might need to remove “hidden” as every table was taken and everyone had a smile on their faces and a huge thank you to Moira as they left.

City Limits Diner (Stamford) – Not a NJ Diner

Posted on May 1, 2014 by jfoodeats

City Limits Diner in Stamford is a member of the Livanos Restaurant Group that includes one of my favorite NYC restaurants, Molyvos. I was first introduced to high-end Greek food at this restaurant and when City Limits arrived in Stamford, I heard that the food was excellent and the bakery was one of the best.

Looking at the menu there are numerous selections normally found at a diner. Breakfasts include eggs & omelets, pancakes, waffles, house-made granola and a few items that I would love to try including a chorizo and egg quesadilla and a crab cake benedict. Order an item from the bakery and have a great breakfast.

When lunch and dinner hits there are a couple of items that grab my attention including Kobe Beef Hot Dog on a pretzel roll with Jalapeño jack cheese, pickles and Chimichurri, a Turkey Cobb salad, and, from some e-mails I have received, a pretty good burger. A very eclectic group of entrées include a chicken loaf, fish & chips, crab cakes and ravioli. Coming from NJ I miss seeing the open faced roast beef or turkey sandwich, but I could probably get used to the change.

They are currently introducing a few weekly special evenings and my buddies over at www.ctbites.com post them every week on the “Weekly Nibble.” Take a look over there and check it out.

Olio “House Burger” (STM) – Excellent in Springdale

Posted on April 26, 2014 by jfoodeats

In my constant search for great burgers in Fairfield County for http://www.ctbites.com I found myself heading to Stamford to sample the new lunch menu at Olio that includes the Olio House Burger. And I am glad I did. Olio recently began serving lunch and it is slowly turning into the go-to location for many locals. The lunch menu includes a soup a few salads, and several sandwiches from chicken salad to steak, plus a pasta and sautéed shrimp. But I was there for the burger.

The Olio House burger is a unique combination of flavors and ingredients. It starts with a thick all-beef patty topped with Tasso ham, melted Manchego cheese, caramelized Cipollini onions, with a schmear of roasted tomato aioli, all encased in a Brioche roll from Eli’s. It is served with thick steak fries and a side of ketchup.

The burger is excellent. The meat was lightly formed with the grind of the meat still present. Although it was cooked a little past my requested medium rare, it was still this side of medium, a nice pink interior. The substitution of the Tasso ham for a traditional smoked bacon added a significant level of pepperiness and the mild Manchego cheese added a nice creaminess. The star of this combination was the caramelized Cipollini onions, they were fantastic, creamy, sweet, just a great addition. The roll added a good buttery complement.

The steak fries were perfectly prepared and finished with pepper and truffle salt. They were crispy on the exterior and moist and soft on the interior. The truffle salt added an earthy complement to the flavor. I am a purist on fries and would have been equally satisfied with just salt and a little pepper.

Overall the Olio House Burger is definitely a go-to burger and is one of the best in Stamford. Chef/Owner Steve Costanzo and his business partner Moira Hyland do an outstanding job at dinner and I anticipate that once word travels that lunch is available, the lunch crowd will equal the packed dinner crowd.

Steam Restaurant (G’wich) – Pan Everywhere Cuisine

Posted on April 15, 2014 by jfoodeats

With very little fanfare, Steam Restaurant opened on Greenwich Avenue serving a variety of Asian inspired dishes. Whether you are in the mood for Malaysian, Thai, Japanese, Chinese or one of a few other national dishes, Steam might have what you desire. The menu is divided into several sections including Dim Sum & Bao, Small Plates, Mix & Match, Ramen, Fried Rice and Noodles, Gourmet to Go, Vegetarian Selections and Soup.

There are few places that serve dim sum in Fairfield County, Steam has almost a dozen, ranging from Sichuan Dumplings to Roast Duck Buns. Small Plates and Salads include traditional Crispy Thai Spring Rolls, Thai Crab Cakes, Baby Back Ribs, Heirloom Tomato and Avocado salad, and a Grille Free Range Chicken Salad. The variety of dishes equals the variety of nationalities.

For larger dishes, choose a protein and a sauce and create your own dish from Ginger black Bean to Thai Curry, or move to one of three Ramen dishes with four different proteins, including baby back ribs. The Fried Rice and Noodle section offers four different rice and noodles from Fried or Brown Jasmine to Pad Thai with five different protein options. If you are looking for pre-determined combinations the Gourmet To Go section includes a Crispy Duck with Plum Sauce, a Clay Pot Sichuan Beef and a Thai Coconut Casserole. Vegetarian options are numerous and should satisfy those looking for a non-meat dish.

With most of the smaller plates priced under $10 and the larger ones under $20, Steam will be a cost effective option in Greenwich.

Remo’s Brick Oven Pizza (STM) – Pretty Tasty Pie

Posted on April 14, 2014 by jfoodeats

Remos is located on Bedford, just north of the Tresser intersection. Parking on Bedford is always tricky but visitors have the option of parking behind in the large public parking lot. Enter from either the front or the back.

On one side of the interior, near the front is the brick oven for the pizzas. The menu is ample, and guests can choose from appetizers, salads, sandwiches, pastas, plates or pizzas. I was there for the pizza. The restaurant offers 10 Signature pies ranging from a salad and veggie to a Buffalo chicken. You can also opt for a Margherita, a New York Pie, or build your own. I decided on my regular first pie of half pepperoni and half sausage & pepper.

The pizza arrived and it was baked excellently. There was a slight char but not burnt, the dough was very thin, almost too thin, and airy with just a bit of a bite. The sauce was rich in flavor and seasoned with traditional Italian seasonings. There was the correct amount of cheese, nicely melted. The pepperoni was a little spicy and not too oily. The sausage and pepper side was very good, not great. The sausage was not my favorite.

Overall, I enjoyed the pizza at Remos. It definitely deserves a second visit to try another pie.

Frank & Frites (Darien) – Basic at Best

Posted on April 13, 2014 by jfoodeats

Franks and Frites is located in the same mini-mall as Gut reaction to the left of Palmers Market in Darien. I was on my regular search for http://www.ctbites.com and dogs, burgers and fries were on my radar. A small storefront at the end of the row welcomes guests with a “Hand Cut Fries” in the window, while the interior allows for ten guests at tables and another eight on stools. You order from the two men in the rear of the restaurant and they bring the food to your table in plastic picnic baskets.

I ordered a hot dog with a little mustard, a little sauerkraut and a little green relish, a bacon cheeseburger, medium-rare, and a small order of fries.

The dog in a basic potato roll arrived first, and the first item I noticed was that it was smothered in the three items I ordered “a little” of. The dog was griddled and offered a good snap when bitten with a good snap. The dog was salty and a basic dog. The sauerkraut and relish were non-descript, and the yellow mustard was as well. There was nothing special about this hot dog.

The burger was in the same category. I ordered medium-rare and it arrived medium-well. Two strip of overcooked basic was included and a single slice of un-melted American cheese sat atop the bacon, all encased inside another potato roll. The meat was bland and unseasoned, the bacon and the cheese were basic and the roll was cold. The fries were not even that good. They were un-seasoned, and while they were brown on the exterior, half were still hard on the interior. Neither of these items were not worth more than a few bites.

There is no ketchup or mustard on the tables and they have the dispensers in one corner. There was not brown mustard available on my visit, but that would not matter.

I really wanted to like this place, but basic dogs and burgers and less than basic toppings on cold rolls is not a restaurant I would run back to.

Zelo (MN) – Good Food with Great Service

Posted on April 10, 2014 by jfoodeats

We enjoyed a group dinner at Zelo this week. Located on the corner of Nicollet and 9^th, the restaurant is an eclectically decorated combination of woods and leathers, accented by vivid artwork on the walls. On a busy mid-week evening it was bustling but the noise level allowed for conversation at our table. Of special note was our server, who was outstanding. She explained many of the choices and was spot on during the entire evening.

The food was very good, but there was nothing I would rush back for and there were some misses.

We began the evening with a few shared appetizers. The “calamari fritti” was accompanied by lemon aioli and gremolata. These were the most disappointing of the appetizers. I was impressed when they were delivered as there were plenty of heads, which I prefer, but the coating was very flour-y, very unpleasant to the taste. They were slightly overcooked. The “ahi tuna spring rolls” are filled with somen noodles and served with a touch of soy wasabi. This was my favorite of the three. It was a spring roll interpretation of a tuna-avocado roll, with the seaweed replaced with rice paper. The flavors were excellent and they were crispy on the exterior. I was excited about the “caramelized brussels sprouts,” but these too were flat. Served with Ames farm and topped with honey toasted almonds, I was expecting a sweet and crispy presentation. They tried on both counts but came close, but did not hit the mark on either.

For my entrée, the server recommended the “pesto crusted sea bass” served with mashed potatoes, crispy onions, nestled in a swath of Thai chili beurre blanc. This falls into the vertical food category. A mound of potatoes is topped with a large 8-10 oz. filet, topped with pesto and then finally topped with the crispy onions. The potatoes were very good, just a touch of wasabi to give a little spice. The filet was excellent, crispy skin adorned the moist and delightfully flavorful fish and the pesto (not crusted as described) added a great balance with its earthiness. The crispy onions were stale and cold and should have remained in the kitchen. The Thai chili beurre blanc was a little butter with no spice, where was the Thai chili? But I did like the dish, and it would have been excellent if the beurre blanc and the onions were better.

For dessert I ordered the “Bananas Foster Bread Pudding.” This is better described as Banana Foster and bread pudding. They were two distinct desserts sharing a plate. That being said, it was delicious. The bread pudding was moist and flavorful (although it would have benefited from a little more cinnamon) and the bananas foster delivered that sweet-pungent combination from the bananas and the liquor. It was served with a scoop of sweet vanilla ice cream.

Overall I was pleased with Zelo. It has excellent service and décor and very good food.

Vincent A Restaurant (MSP) – Outstanding Burger

Posted on April 10, 2014 by jfoodeats

At my last visit to Vincent’s over four years ago I was not impressed with the Vincent Burger. But four years later I am glad I returned because the burger I recently ate was one of the best burgers I have eaten in the Twin Cities.

To start my lunch I ordered a Caesar salad. It was a standard salad with lettuce, croutons, a single anchovy filet on top plus an interesting addition, diced tomato, all topped with a sprinkling of grated cheese. It was lightly dressed and good, not great nor memorable.

But I was interested to either confirm my previous impression of the hamburger or enjoy what others have told me is one of the best. I was both excited and cautiously optimistic when it was placed in front of me. The Vincent burger is a unique combination…a double-patty of ground beef is wrapped around braised short rib and smoked Gouda cheese; served on a brioche bun; it is a haut cuisine version of a Jucy Lucy. It arrives open faced with French fries. The burger patty was on one side of the bun that contained a thin layer of “special sauce” and the other half is topped with lettuce, tomato and raw onion. The ground beef was perfectly seasoned with just a touch of salt. The Gouda was melted and delivered a creaminess to the burger and then the short rib textures and flavors kicked in. This elevated the Vincent Burger from excellent to incredible. The brioche added a little butteriness to the presentation and the sauce gave a few sour background notes. The burger was incredibly delicious. The fries were not in the same league. They were tasteless, cool and bland, more than likely came from a big frozen bag, deep fried and added to the lunch plates.

Overall, the Vincent Burger is an outstanding combination of flavors and textures and ranks as one of the best in Minneapolis.

Porter & Frye (MSP) – Bad College Meal Redux

Posted on April 8, 2014 by jfoodeats

A quick lunch at Porter and Frye was incredibly disappointing. Our group arrived at 12:15, there were two people at the bar and several tables occupied and there was not one single employee in sight. A guest at one of the tables was looking for her server, or any human, but none. I walked into the hallway to the Ivy, none. I walked back to my group and told them I would check the kitchen. As I approached the swinging doors, a server exited empty handed followed by a second server a few seconds later. If there were close options we would have left.

I ordered the Frye Burger medium-rare. This included an 8-ounce ground chuck patty, with an over-easy egg, cheddar, bacon on a potato roll. The burger was incredibly disappointing. The meat was more a 6-oz patty, vastly overcooked, beyond well done, flavorless and hard. The egg was cooked perfectly but then slathered in salt and the bacon added more salt. The roll was uneventful. The sweet potato fries were tasteless but salted very well.

Service was slim. Two college students were left to their own devices, no manager, no guidance. One takes the order, one delivers the food. They brought one teacup full of ketchup for four people eating burgers and sandwiches, all with fries. When we asked for more, “oh yeah.”

Overall my burger lunch was less than diner quality food served by a couple of college kids.

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying