Category Archives: Norwalk

Guvnor’s Brewery (SONO) – Great Fries with a Side of Burger

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BL Bottles 2

Guvnor’s Brewery was a mere month old when I visited to try a burger and fries. I arrived at 215, the lunch crowd was onto other activities and I was a solo in the restaurant. Channeling Norm from “Cheers” I sat at the end of the bar and ordered “The Guvnor’s Burger,” described as “Our Signature Meat Blend, Pancetta, American Cheese and Thousand Island Sauce.” I asked if the burger was served with fries and was informed that fries did accompany the burger.

BL Dining

As I waited I enjoyed an informative conversation with the bartender. There were five beers served, a sixth was on its way and the IPA that they recently introduced was such a hit it was sold-out more quickly than thought, a good sign for any restaurant touting itself as a brewery, but that’s a different story. Another server wondered over and joined in the conversation. Both were incredibly friendly and very knowledgeable about the entire restaurant.

BL Bar

The burger arrived and there were several items that were immediately visible. The bun was very tall and I was concerned it would be too much bread for the burger and the large portion of fries was heavily seasoned. In addition, the patty was perfectly round, compact and gave the appearance of pre-made by machine.

BL BurgerLet’s start with the good news. The fries were some of the best I have eaten. They were thrice-fried (no idea why you need the third dipping) and the seasoning was delicious. They were crispy on the exterior and moist and soft on the interior. The seasoning also added a great saltiness and cheesiness. I noticed garlic cloves and sprigs of rosemary intermingled within the fries and the bartender told me that they three ingredients were all fried simultaneously.

BL OpenOnto the burger. The Guvnor’s Burger is probably six-ounces and the bartender told me it was a 3-meat blend of short rib, chuck and brisket (unconfirmed). The meat was well cooked to medium-rare but lacked any flavor, there was no seasoning whatsoever either before or after cooking. The texture was compressed and borderline hard. The cheese added a little flavor and the pancetta added a little saltiness, but the Thousand Island Sauce was too vinegary and the flavors were too bold for the other ingredients. The bun was too large for burger and was not complementary to the meat. Overall the burger was fairly disappointing.

The space was incredibly well done, the service was excellent and the fries were outstanding. Unfortunately, I would not run back and re-order the burger.

Guvnor's Brewery on Urbanspoon

NOLA Oyster Bar – Outstanding Seafood in SONO

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ctb3I re-visited NOLA Oyster Bar a few months after its opening to enjoy some of the newest additions to the menu. Chef Dan Kardos is clearly in charge of the kitchen and his culinary talent is evident as he creates some of the most delicious cuisine in Fairfield County.

ctb4The Seafood Tower, a dedication to cold shellfish (plus tuna), was the first course served to our table. The generous portions included Cherrystone clams, snow crab legs, Copps Island oysters, shrimp, and charred Hamachi crudo. A house made mignonette sauce accompanied the oysters. All of the items on the Tower were delightful. The crudo was marinated in white and dark balsamic vinegar plus a combination of lime and tangerine juices; it was tantalizing. The crab legs and shrimp were sweet with just a touch of seasoning to emphasize the natural flavors. The Copps Island oysters were a little bitter with very little salinity, but the addition of the mignonette sauce drastically changed the flavor profile from bitter to delicious.

ctb9It is rare that I rave about a vegetable dish, but the Brussels sprouts at Nola were outstanding. Fried and then topped with a sweet maple glaze, it was almost impossible to stop eating them. Chef Kardos then added more crunch with a smattering of chopped pistachios and bacon. The Brussels sprouts should be a communal order to share and enjoy with everyone at the table.

ctb5The “Chopped Salad” included corn, peas, beets, wax beans, Brussels sprouts and topped with grated Queso Fresco cheese. This was no ordinary green salad; it offered several vegetables from Urban Oaks with differing textures and just a touch of spiciness. It was a delicious salad.

ctb8The “Cornmeal Fried Oysters” were served with collard greens, Jalapeño mayonnaise, Tasso ham and topped with a spicy corn relish. The oysters were crunchy on the exterior with a good sized belly that released the delicious liquor when bitten. The Tasso offered a smooth complement and sweet corn, pickle and red pepper relish was a perfect addition. The Jalapeño mayonnaise added just the correct level of spiciness.

ctb7The “Poached Lobster & Cornbread Waffle” is one of my favorite combinations in the area. It included butter-poached lobster, griddled scallions, Queso Fresco cheese topped with a brown sauce. The waffles were sweet, crispy on the exterior and moist and soft on the interior. The lobster was full of sweet buttery flavor, the scallions brought a little bitterness and the melted cheese created smoothness to the dish. The dish was finished with one of the best brown sauces north of the French Quarter.

ctb10My adventure through NOLA’S seafood continued with two other outstanding dishes. The “Shrimp & Grits” started with paprika dusted shrimp that were perfectly sautéed and paired with sliced Jalapeños to deliver a good kick. To mellow the flavors the dish contained slices of Tasso ham and all of these ingredients sat atop creamy grits.ctb11 The “Griddled Scallops” were served atop a smooth and delicious celery root puree, and Chef Kardos changed the direction of a traditional scallop dish with the addition of several uncommon ingredients, strawberries and melon. The dish was further enhanced by a touch of honey, almonds, and finished with slices of speck. This was a great combination of flavors and textures. The honeydew brightened the dish and the honey brought sweetness, but I was not as excited about the strawberries.

ctb2To finish the meal, I sampled the “Chocolate & Peanut Butter Pot De Crème” that was topped with whipped cream and roasted peanuts, which was much too sweet for my palate. I was less enthusiastic about this dessert.

After several months, NOLA Oyster Bar has taken its position as one of the go-to restaurants in Fairfield County.

Really Liked

  1. Brussels Sprouts
  2. Poached Lobster
  3. Shrimp & Grits
  4. Fried Oysters
  5. Griddled Scallops
  6. Seafood Tower

Liked

  1. Chopped Salad

Did Not Like

  1. Chocolate & Peanut Butter Pot au Creme

This review was originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/9/8/nola-oyster-bar-revisiting-an-excellent-seafood-spot-in-sono.html

 

Los Poblanos (Norwalk) – A Little Gem with Excellent Food

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bl1Locating this little gem is a little difficult. If you are heading towards Westport on Route 1, make a right at the light where Pennzy’s Spice is located and Los Poblanos is one of the five storefronts immediately to your left. Park behind the building and enter from the rear. There are three four-person booths and a couple of tables. The walls are brightly painted adorned with regional posters and a Spanish language TV offers a little entertainment.

bl2The menu is brightly colored with various Mexican offering. I wanted to sample Los Tacos and ordered four of them. Once delivered the first item I noticed was the amount of filling, Los Poblanos significantly fills the soft tacos. Green (cilantro) and orange (I would guess habanero) sauce accompany the tacos. The cilantro sauce was great and complemented the flavors and the orange was a little too spicy for my palate but had great flavor.

DSC_1906I decided to work my way from least to most spicy and started with The Carnitas (pork) taco. The cubed pork was simply sautéed and topped with diced raw onion and cilantro. The flavors were mild, and mine included a few cubes of pork fat. The addition of some on the green cilantro sauce created a great balance of flavor and very mild in heat.

The Pollo tonga (shredded chicken) taco was smothered in a red sauce that upon first bite I thought was too mild as well. But the heat of the pepper slowly arrived about 30 seconds later, no a burn, but a mild reminder that this was Latin food. The addition of cilantro again balanced the flavors.

bl3Looking to increase the heat level I moved to the Chorizo (Mexican sausage) taco. I was a little surprised about two items, the presentation and the heat level. Normally chorizo is sliced to create circles, but Los Poblanos served their sliced in a julienne. Likewise the heat level was much less than expected, I would characterize these as a very mild chorizo but the flavor was outstanding. The taco was topped with sliced and diced onion

The last taco was the Al pastor (spicy pork). At last I found some spiciness. The same pork that I enjoyed in the Carnita was sautéed and then tossed with a spicy red sauce. This created a great depth of flavors with a good level of spiciness. This was my favorite taco of the four.

Overall I was impressed with Los Poblanos and look forward to returning and enjoy additional options.

Restaurante Los Poblanos on Urbanspoon

Mama’s Boy – Southern Hospitality in South Norwalk

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After several visits to Mama’s Boy Southern Table and Refuge in SONO I can highly recommend this restaurant for its food and ambiance.  Fairfield County native and owner Greer Fredericks, and her business partner Ami Dorel, bring a southern feel to the décor, and Chef Scott Ostrander is making his mark on the menu with some great dishes.

The “BBQ Pulled Pork” contained great texture and flavors that were accented with a touch of spiciness from the jalapeño corn pancakes. The Mama’s Bourbon Q sauce added a deep rich element to the dish.

The “Charleston Crab Cakes” were served alongside a medley of tomato, corn, butterbeans, and lemon herb aioli. The cylinder-shaped cakes were full of crab and the accompanying vegetables were a perfect complement for sweetness and texture.

DSC_1551-001The menu also offers “Deviled Eggs” with house-smoked Tasso, and okra pickles. The Tasso added smokiness to the creamy yolks, and the major difference between Mama’s and others is the pickled okra. Combining a piece of okra with the deviled eggs was like no other Deviled Egg I have ever tasted. The “Salt ‘n Vinegar Fried Oysters” were fried perfectly and were delicious with the addition of the vinegar.

The Soup & Salad contains two great options. The “BLT Salad” was delicious, but not a reduced calorie recipe. It included fried green tomato, candied bacon, artisan lettuce, and topped with a buttermilk-herb dressing. The combination of the sweet and peppery bacon, the crispy fried green tomato (a thicker slice would have been preferred) and the sweet field lettuces created a delicious salad.

The “Shrimp and Grits” is becoming their signature dish and it just kept getting better. On my latest visit the appetizer-sized dish contained three U-21 southern white shrimp, sitting atop Fall’s Mill grits, topped with house-smoked Tasso, spring onion, and finished with pimento cream gravy. The shrimp are sweet and the grits were fantastic; the texture was creamy with a little crunch.

True to southern cuisine, Mama’s offers its version of the traditional chicken ‘n waffles. “The Little Yardbird” includes pieces of hens that were first marinated in pickle juice and hot sauce and then deep fried. The result was an incredibly moist meat with flavor and texture from the crispy coating. Paired with the waffles, bourbon infused NY sorghum (I prefer a sweeter, more maple-y sauce) and braised greens.

SONO now has catfish on the menu. Mama’s Boy serves its “Corn Bread Crusted Catfish” with Carolina Anson Mills rice, okra, Vidalia onion and smoked tomato.  The filet was moist on the interior and crispy on the exterior while the corn bread coating gave a sweet component to the fish. The sauce was delicious and contained dices of both okra and additional tomato; the rice was a soft textural complement to the dish. I added a few drops of hot sauce to give the dish a little kick.

The “Mushroom and Dumplings” is actually “potato gnocchi, exotic mushroom blend, herbs, and a sunny side farm egg.” The potato gnocchi were sautéed to achieve a crispy exterior and then combined with Mitaki, Oyster and Cremini mushrooms. Sitting atop was a fried egg, awaiting the release of its creamy yolk, which added a great flavor and creaminess when released. The seasoning was slightly off on the dish I sampled with the gnocchi under-seasoned, a little too much vinegar in the mushrooms and a little too much salt sprinkled on top. This is definitely a re-try for my next visit.

And save room for one of the best desserts, Mama’s Boy’s Pecan Cheese Cake. A creamy wedge of moist cheesecake was accented with a sweet topping of maple and pecans. This was a perfect way to end the evening.

DSC_1376-001Overall Mama’s Boy Southern Table and Refuge is an excellent choice in SONO. The food is creative, inventive and offers a new cuisine to the area and the atmosphere is relaxed, fun and very southern.

Mama’s Boy Southern Table & Refuge

19 North Water Street – South Norwalk, CT – (203) 956-7171

Really Liked:

  • BBQ Pulled Pork
  • Charleston Crab Cakes
  • BLT Salad
  • Shrimp & Grits
  • Little Yardbird
  • Pecan Cheesecake

Liked:

  • Salt ‘n Vinegar Fried Oysters
  • She Crab Soup
  • Corn Bread Crusted Catfish

Needs a revisit:

  • Mushroom and Dumplings
  • John’s Island Frogtown Stew

A more detailed review appeared in http://www.ctbites.com at

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/6/23/mamas-boy-southern-table-refuge-southern-in-sono.html

Mama's Boy Southern Table & Refuge on Urbanspoon

Best Restaurant Burgers in Southwest CT – #9 Oak + Almond (Norwalk)

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A new restaurant, a new chef, a new menu, a great burger. Chef Jeff Taibe enters the food scene of Fairfield County with a bang. The interior of the redesigned interior is gorgeous, and the open kitchen allows the guests to watch all of the preparation. But as the name suggests, the centerpiece of the restaurant is the large wood-burning oven. Why almond? Chef Taibe told me that the almond is added when the oven needs a blast of extra heat. And the burger, full of bold flavors.

bl2 Oak + AlmondChef Jeff Taibe’s new menu includes the Grass Fed Burger, a large patty using 80-20 of Pat Lafrieda blend meat. The patty was charred and perfectly prepared and mild in flavor and was complemented by the accompanying bold ingredients. The burger was topped with some of the best bacon slices I tasted in my tour, delicious sweet-sour cippolini onions, melted Gorgonzola cheese and aioli and then served on a Wave Hill Brioche. The toppings were deep in flavor to complement the mild meat. The fries were fantastic, fried and salted and finished with sprigs of fresh rosemary.

Read the entire list of best Restaurant Hamburgers at http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/19/ten-best-restaurant-burgers-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

Oak + Almond on Urbanspoon

Best Restaurant Burgers in Southwest CT – #6 Nola Oyster Bar (SONO)

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Each year a burger created by Dan Kardos has appeared on my list of favorites and the 2013 Best Restaurant Burgers includes another fantastic burger; now prepared at NOLA Wine Bar in SONO. The menu includes numerous fish creations ranging from Shrimp & Grits to Lobster & Waffles, and one of the stand-out items is this fantastic burger. bl2 nolaChef Dan Kardos continued his tradition of great hamburgers in his newest kitchen. Kardos used Saugatuck Craft Butchery dry aged blend of short rib, chuck and brisket that was grilled to a perfect char. He topped this patty with melted Beemster cheese, mushrooms, bacon, and frizzled onions and black pepper mayo. The flavor of the meat was outstanding and the toppings were delicious. The cheese was flavorful and complemented the richness in the meat. The bacon was thick and perfectly cooked but was just a little salty. The burger was served with curly fries that were fun and fantastic.

Read the entire list of best Restaurant Hamburgers at http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/19/ten-best-restaurant-burgers-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

Nola Oyster Bar on Urbanspoon

Best Restaurant Burgers – #2 Chelsea / Match

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This is not the first time I have written about the cheeseburger at Match and its sister restaurant Chelsea…they are both so great. I witnessed the creation of this masterpiece and it continues as an incredibly delicious array of flavors and textures. Chef Matt Storch continues to push the envelope with flavor combinations and the burgers at both of his restaurants are fantastic.

What separates this burger from the others is the Bacon-Cheese Béchamel sauce. Unlike any other cheese topping in my tour. And the French fries were also the top of the list.

bl2 chelseaThe “Chelsea Burger” and the “Match Burger” each delivered an incredible array of flavors. Chef Matt Storch’s burger started with Craft Saugatuck Butchery’s rich, grass fed short rib, chuck and brisket combination. After grilling to create a crisp char and smokiness, the burger was dipped in a Bacon-Cheese Béchamel, a process created by Chef Storch. Bacon bits sat atop the cheese-dipped burger to add saltiness and then sweet-sour onions finished this presentation. The burger was encased in a sweet onion brioche from the Good Bread Company in Port Chester, which added just a little more sweetness to the burger. The fries at Match were the best I tasted, and Chef Storch told me he worked years developing his technique; crunchy on the exterior, soft and moist on the interior and were the perfect complement to the burger.

See the full list of the Best Restaurant Burgers from Greenwich to New Haven at http://www.ctbites,com:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/19/ten-best-restaurant-burgers-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

Ciao

Match on Urbanspoon

The Chelsea on Urbanspoon

Jfood’s Top 10 Bar Burgers – Greenwich to New Haven #8 BJ Ryan’s Pub

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I tasted over 60 hamburgers to develop the list, yes I actually tasted versus just cut and paste from the menus. And I rated the Top-10 Bar Burgers from Greenwich to New Haven. The first two listings were in New Haven, and for #8 we move to Fairfield County and BJ Ryan’s Pub in Norwalk.

bl BJ Ryan

The B.J. Ryan Burger was delicious; a simple burger served on a soft roll. The meat was perfectly charred on the exterior and juicy on the interior. The grind of the patty was not too compressed or too loose and a slice of American cheese brought all of the saltiness that was required. The fries, which are extra, were not in the same league and not worth the additional cost. (Not to be confused with the one that is sold at its sister restaurant BanC House).

See the full lists of my Top-10 Bar Burgers at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/5/top-10-bar-burgers-from-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

B.J. Ryans on Urbanspoon

Tavern on 7 (Norwalk) – Not a Good Burger

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As my search for great bar burgers continues, I wandered up the street from my office to try Tavern on 7. Located just north of the DMV on the opposite side of the street, there is parking on the side and when I entered midway through lunch service the place was bustling with a full house. Evryone seemed to be enjoying their meal, including burgers, fish & chips, salads and sandwiches.

I was there for a burger and the menu included five choices, an “Angus Cheeseburger,” a “All-Star Burger,” A “Veggie Burger,” a “Turkey Burger,” and my choice the “Tavern Brew Burger,” which included black angus beef topped with Fontina cheese, smoked bacon and caramelized onions.

As I waited for the burger to arrive I was impressed with the energy and the chatter around me. This was a go-to spot for many. The burger arrived and after one bite my disappointment kicked in and nothing in the subsequent bites eliminated this first impression. The meat tasted as if water was added to give it a level of juiciness, the bacon was very basic and boring and the onions were more greasy than tasty. The bun was cold and right out of a plastic bag.

I am glad others enjoyed more than me, but I am not anxious to return and have another burger.

Tavern on 7 on Urbanspoon

Riko’s Pizza (Norwalk / Stamford) – Outstanding Pies

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BL RikosI consider myself very fortunate in my historical relationship with pizza. Born and raised in NJ where the local pizzeria created $1.60 pies (yes that is under two-dollars for the entire pie, not a slice), I graduated  to the “Bar Pie” at Star Tavern and Pizzeria in East Orange, before leaving the Garden State in my late teens. While in College in D.C. I found Greek-style pizza and then graduate school in Chicago introduced me to two eye-opening events…the Giordano’s Stuffed Deep Dish pie and the Midwest propensity to cut their pies into little squares.

I hit the jackpot on my move back east with my marriage to a women from the New Haven suburbs and her presenting my all-time, favorite, best pizza…Sally’s in New Haven. Never did I appreciate the classical flavors and textures until then. I was fortunate to share a table with Flo shortly before her death and enjoyed both her pizza and her stories. One of my first assignments for www.ctbites.com four years ago was to give my opinions of the iconic Colony Pizza in Stamford. It was a classic full pan pizza with a thin crispy crust, basic toppings and their secret ingredient, hot oil. One bite and I understood the beauty of this creation. Take a little bit of this theory, add a little bit of that theory…delicious.

When I heard that a new kid in town was “duplicating” the Colony-experience I needed to test this theory. Riko’s Pizza originally opened in the same neighborhood as Colony and many claimed “foul.” But for me, it was less about the ownership of “The Recipe” and more about the product. Others agree, since Riko’s has expanded to a second location on Newfield and a third location on Main Street in Norwalk.

After a couple of Riko’s pies I am glad they have a location near my office as well as nearer the house. Both offer the same quality pizza…delicious. Those from the Norwalk and the Newfield locations are twin sons of different ovens. The pies are baked in high rimmed pans, reminiscent of the Chicago deep dish pan. The dough is stretched to the circumference and then topped a little sauce, and then you design the rest from almost 30 different toppings (Colony has twelve to choose from). I consistently stay basic with pepperoni, sausage and hot oil, hey if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

The thin crust was nicely crisped, not cracker and stilled maintained a degree of pliability. The sauce and cheese were delicious and the pepperoni and sausage were both excellent. Then the hot oil kicked in and this was an overall fantastic pie. Just make sure you have a ton of napkins since the pie is oily by itself and then adding the hot oil raises it to another level.

If you do not want to make the trip Colony, you will be just as happy with the pies at Rikos, just remember there is no seating so all of these pies are take-aways.

 

Riko's Pizza on Urbanspoon

Riko's Pizza on Urbanspoon