Harlan Social (Stamford) – Still One of the Best

Posted on January 1, 2014 by jfoodeats

The new menu at Harlan Social is in full swing and there are some fantastic options emphasizing Chef Lewandowski’s philosophy of bold and balanced flavors.

The “Baby Tuscan Kale & Blue Cheese Salad,” topped with apples, spiced pecans and cider vinaigrette is delightful. The salad delivers bold flavors in the Kale and the Blue cheese and complemented by the sweetness of the apples and the acidity of the vinaigrette. The “Spicy Pork Meatballs” are delicious, served with soft polenta, San Marzano tomatoes with a touch of Pecorino. The slightly spicy and moist meatballs pair well with the creamy polenta with the Pecorino adding just a touch of saltiness. The “Local Burrata” is fantastic and is accompanied by red wine caponata with incredibly bold flavors. The Burrata is creamy with a soft lusciousness while the caponata takes the palate to the other extreme with olives, capers, eggplant and a touch of basil. These are all great choices to start the meal.

For entrees I really enjoyed the “Red Wine Braised Short Rib.” Served atop a sweet carrot puree and accompanied by Brussels sprouts, the soft, moist meat is perfectly glazed with the wine sauce. The sweetness of the carrot puree is delicious and works perfectly with the crunchy earthiness of the slivered almonds. Another great choice is the “Grilled Long Island Duck” served with butternut squash and apple puree, and finished with lingonberry sauce. A large, sliced duck breast sits atop a creamy and sweet apple puree that is offset by the slightly sweet-sour lingonberry sauce. The butternut squash adds an earthy quality, creating adish with rich flavors. Carnivores will be satisfied with the “Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb.” A rack of four encrusted chops are served with braised lamb shoulder, rye spaetzle and acorn squash. The chops are full of flavor with the shoulder, spaetzle and acorn squash adding additional flavors and texture. One dish that I am not as fond of is the Goat Cheese Ravioli, which is served with Serrano ham, picholine olives and braised tomatoes. The flavors fought with each other and did not offer the full flavor and balanced flavor profile as the other dishes.

Service is always spot on, knowledgeable, friendly and constantly checking to see if all is perfect for the guests.

Ching’s Table (New Canaan) – Hit or Miss

Posted on December 29, 2013 by jfoodeats

The food at Ching’s used to be consistency outstanding, each dish a balance of flavors and textures. Over the years, the perfection we used to see in each and every dish can falter in certain preparations. When the kitchen is on, the food is spectacular, but when they miss, well, it is just a ordinary Asian-inspired plate of food.

Eating at Ching’s can vary from and incredibly pleasant experience, to an evening where you question why you went. There are times when the staff treats you properly, they seat you, take your order, and serve your food. There are, unfortunately, other times, when the staff may ask you to move to accommodate a larger party, even if you are between courses; and this may happen more than once on a given meal. I also learned a long time ago to NEVER order all the food at once since the timing from the kitchen may cause the server to deliver your order in a haphazard manner, sometimes all at once, sometimes the appetizers after the entrees. As a result, table tops may get crowded quickly if certain dishes are ordered and delivered simultaneously since they require a good deal of geography. Reservations? Sometimes they matter and sometimes they just seat you and others as they please.

Some quick thoughts on my last visit:

Pork Dim Sum – Four pieces with good flavor and a delicate wrap;
Szechuan Dumplings- They have the best Szechuan dumplings in the area, different and larger than its sister restaurant in town, Sushi 25, with great peanut butter sauce and just a little kick in the filling;
Peking Duck – great preparation served with four wrappers. This dish is divided amongst three separate plates which occupied a good deal of the table. They were a little light on the amount of hoisin sauce and you should ask for more;
Chicken Chow Fun – tasteless preparation other than the bitterness of the chicken;
Tenderloin of Beef – really bad as well. The beef was prepared to requested doneness but was mealy in texture and the flavors were completely off;
Sesame Chicken – Excellent dish, great flavors, and a good coating to the chicken which presented a much better flavor than the chicken in the chow fun.

Overall the food is hit or miss, sometimes outstanding, and other times not very good. As far as eating in the restaurant, there are times when it is just not worth the aggravation. I now usually order a take out and enjoy a relaxing meal at home at my own pace.

My Top Five+ Fairfield County CT Dishes from 2013

Posted on December 25, 2013 by jfoodeats

2013 was an amazing year for food lovers in Fairfield County…several great restaurants opened, several chefs moved and are now creating incredible meals in new locations, several more restaurants announced their openings and I cannot wait.

During the year I enjoyed hundreds of courses in Connecticut and on my travels. With all of those flavors and textures, it was an incredibly difficult task in choosing my five favorite Fairfield County dishes for 2013. In fact, I did not since I couldn’t whittle the last one from this list, so it is six, plus three special categories.

Here are my favorite dishes from 2013:

elm – The “Tagliatelli Neri” is over the top umami heaven. The dish begins with hand-made cuttlefish ink pasta topped with Peekeytoe crab, sea urchin, sea urchin butter, Calabrian chili, garlic bread crumbs and brightened with Meyer lemon juice and oil. The flavors dance on the palate and textures from the silky pasta to the crunchy garlic bread crumbs, are like none I experienced anywhere else.
Match – “Pho” is an incredible Vietnamese soup that Fairfield County needs to embrace. The broth is made from oxtails, ginger, onion, cinnamon, and star anise. When served, thinly sliced rib eye is added and cooked and then finished with cilantro, noodles and Sriracha. This dish is absolutely magical in its complexity of flavors and textures.
South End – “Nonna’s Meatballs” are comprised of pork and veal (that’s right, no beef) that are lightly mixed with tons of sheep’s milk ricotta and Parmesan cheese, then lightly fried and cooked in a crushed tomato sauce. The soft and tender texture of South End’s meatballs separates them from all of the others…they are fantastic.
Nola –The “Poached Lobster & Cornbread Waffle” is one of my favorite combinations in the area with butter-poached lobster, Queso Fresco cheese, topped with a brown sauce served with sweet, crispy waffles. The outstanding flavors are complemented by the best brown sauce north of Mr. B’s Bistro in the French Quarter.
Mama’s Boy – The “Shrimp and Grits” just keep getting better. Perfectly prepared U15 white shrimp, red peppers, scallions, and Tasso sit atop Tennessee sourced grits and finished with a simple garlic butter, white wine, and cream sauce. The grits are my favorite and when paired with the shrimp create an outstanding dish.
Bar Sugo – The “Spaghetti Neri” includes squid ink pasta, smoked tomato sauce, shrimp, bread crumbs and Bottarga. The pasta and shrimp are complemented by the smokiness and spiciness of the tomato sauce, but the entire presentation is elevated by the Bottarga, which adds a delightful brininess to the dish.

Top Hamburger – The Whelk – Over 70 hamburgers comprised my 2013 Hamburger search and The Whelk’s hamburger was my favorite. Full of rich flavor, encased in a great bun and topped with some great cheese, onions and house made pickles.

Top Bolognese – Cava Wine Bar – My colleague at CTBites, Lou Gorfain, and I scoured lower Fairfield County for our Bolognese round-up and my personal favorite was Cava’s Gnocchi with Bolognese. What set this apart from the others was the soft, ricotta gnocchi that were pillows of deliciousness.

Top Pizza – Locali – This newcomer uses age-old pizza-making techniques, San Marzano DOP tomatoes and house made mozzarella. The flavors, texture and the perfect amount of char from the wood burning oven produce some of the best Neapolitan pizza this side of the Campo dei Fiori.

Locali Pizza Bar + Kitchen (New Canaan) – Outstanding Debut

Posted on December 10, 2013 by jfoodeats

Clean…Balanced…Flavorful…

Three words to describe the outstanding cuisine that Locali Pizza Bar + Kitchen, the latest addition to New Canaan’s Restaurant Row. This twenty-eight seat restaurant / pizza bar is already making its mark on the culinary landscape of New Canaan.

Executive Chef Mogan Anthony and his team are creating vibrant flavors and textural contrasts in many of their dishes, intermingled among other selections that are pleasantly soft and mild.

The interior design, with a strong focus on organic materials, creates a cozy and inviting environment with guests choosing between table or bar seating. In full view of the dining and bar area is the beautiful, hand-crafted ceramic encased Stefano Ferrara wood-fired brick oven.

Joining Chef Mogan in the kitchen is Chef de Cuisine Ruben Liriano and Chef Antonio Legato oversees the wood burning pizza oven. Chef Mogan gained his training at the Four Seasons Hotel in Singapore and subsequently under Chef Jean Georges Vongericthen in three different locations, plus the Bedford Post and Village Social in Mt. Kisco. Chef Liriano fine-tuned his craft at A Voce in New York and spent six years under the tutelage of Mario Batali, most recently at Tarry Lodge in Westport.Chef Antonio is a third generation bread maker whose love for breads and pizzas started as a child. He perfected his art by obtaining APN (Authentic Neapolitan Pizza) certification, adhering to the strict standards of ingredients and methods of pizza makers (pizzaioli) for over 150 years.

The menu includes a variety of small plates, larger entrées, and six pizza combinations.

We started the evening with two selections from the “Vegetables” section. While both presented a high level of crispiness, they were extremely different in their respective flavor profile. The “Fried Shishito Peppers” arrived nestled in a dollop of Romano aioli and finished with sesame seeds and a sprinkling of Halen Mon sea salt. About one out of every ten Shishito peppers is very spicy (many describe eating a plate of them as spicy “Russian Roulette”) so we worked carefully through this dish…fortunately, there were no “loaded chambers” on our plate. Each of the peppers was crunchy, mild in spiciness and the aioli added a soothing creaminess while the sesame seeds added a second level of crunch and a good nutty-earthiness.

The second vegetable dish was the “Brussels Sprouts,” which was served atop Mortadella cream and Px Sherry and finished with crumbled pistachios. The Brussels sprouts were first sautéed, then the Px sherry was added and reduced to concentrate its inherent sweetness. The end product was a crispy exterior and a sweetness that worked unexpectedly well with the Mortadella cream, which added numerous flavors and a touch of tanginess. The pistachios supplemented the texture with further crunch and nutty-goodness.

Our second round of “Small Plates” included three outstanding choices. The “Pistachio Crusted Tuna” included four slices of perfectly seared tuna sitting atop yuzu mustard, and finished with scallion sections and New Canaan Olive Oil (http://newcanaanoliveoil.com/). The pistachio crust was a delicious change from other crusted-tuna dishes that many restaurants are serving. The yuzu mustard was a unique combination that combined the citrusy notes of the yuzu with the spiciness of the mustard to create a fantastic combination.

Meatballs are also a popular item on many menus and Locali’s “Umami Meat Balls” are outstanding. The meatballs were soft and delicious and served with cheese curds and toasted polenta. The cheese curds replaced the traditional ricotta, and offered a bit of a tangy background. The polenta was first toasted to intensify the flavors and then slowly rehydrated. The nuttiness and crispiness from the toasting of the polenta added contrasts that were a perfect complement to the meatballs.

I order octopus whenever it is offered and Locali’s “Octopus Fra Diavolo” is one of the best. Chef Anthony enhanced the soft pieces of octopus with a spicy tomato sauce and then added a tangy element with the buttermilk Dolcelatte. While many chefs crisp the exterior to offset the soft interior, Locali’s octopus was soft throughout. The potatoes were a nice addition and added another soft component. The octopus was outstanding.

While we waited for our pizzas, Chef Ruben brought a dish that he is currently developing; Squid Ink Pasta with Squid in a red sauce. Large bowtie-shaped pasta was paired with julienned squid and served in a red sauce. This was a great combination that will be enjoyed by many as soon as it graces the menu and reminded me to include pasta dishes on my next visit.

We sampled two outstanding pizzas; the toppings were exceptionally fresh and the flavors were outstanding. The “Margherita Pizza” was a traditional combination of San Marzano tomatoes, Locali (house made) Mozzarella and finished with a touch of extra virgin olive oil. The crust was delicious, the texture maintained just a small amount of bite and was nicely charred. The center of the dough was less crispy and I would expect this was the result of the newness of the brick oven continuing its curing process. The “Wild Mushroom Pizza” was a simple combination, showcasing a variety of exotic wild mushrooms accented with garlic and combined with Locali Mozzarella and Pecorino Tartufu. The mushrooms delivered a wonderful earthiness and the garlic and cheeses were perfect complements to the pizza.

And when the server approached and asked if we would like dessert, we chose two, the “Salty Caramel Pie” and the “Tiramisu.” The desserts were all created by Chef Mogan’s wife, Seleste Tan, who formerly worked at wd50 in NYC and the Four Season Hotel in Singapore. The salty caramel pie was a tribute to sweetness and textures. The filling was a smooth caramel-custard and the crunchy crust was a perfect complement to the sweetness of the filling. It was served with a little whipped cream, a slice of strawberry and dusted with powdered sugar. We enjoyed the “Tiramisu,” which was served in a large glass. This was a light and creamy rendition, with rum as the primary flavor. Both of these desserts were delicious.

Locali is a tremendous addition to New Canaan’s Restaurant Row. The food presents an array of flavors, from mild and mellow options to tantalizing choices with bold and complex combinations; each work well in highlighting the flavors of each of the ingredients in the dish. The pizzas are delicious, traditional Napolitano thin crusted gems that use the freshest ingredients to showcase their natural flavors. The food and vibe at Locali are fantastic and this will be a go-to restaurant in New Canaan.

Locali Pizza Bar + Kitchen – New Canaan – 32 Forest Street – New Canaan, CT 06840 – (203) 920-1440

Really Liked:

Brussels Sprouts
Umami Meatballs
Octopus Fra Diavolo
Farfalle with Squid
Margharita Pizza
Salty Caramel Pie

Liked:

Shishito Peppers
Pistachio Crusted Tuna
Wild Mushroom Pizza
Tiramisu

This review was originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/12/8/locali-pizza-bar-kitchen-opens-in-new-canaan.html

Connecticut Sandwich Company (New Canaan) – Great New Addition

Posted on December 4, 2013 by jfoodeats

The Connecticut Sandwich Company opened at 78 Pine Street across from Zumbachs in the space formerly Tony’s Deli (moved across the street). I ordered a Pork Kimchee Sandwich (Roasted Pork, Kimchee and Garlic Dijonnaise) on a Wave Hill roll. First impression was the place has great potential. The roasted pork was pulled pork, perfectly cooked but a little over-salted. I could not find the kimchee but there was a good spiciness to the meat and when there was some garlic dijonnaise in a bite it was delicious. The choice of Wave Hill was the right one. Lighten the salt and play with the ratios and this will be a great sandwich.

Bar Sugo 2.0 (Norwalk) – Enter Chef Paul Failla

Posted on December 2, 2013 by jfoodeats

Slightly more than a year ago, restaurant Bar Sugo opened on Wall Street in Norwalk featuring a variety of owner/Chef Pat Pascarella’s fantastic pizzas, meatballs and delectable pastas. Pascarella recently handed the reins of the day-to-day culinary oversight to Chef Paul Failla, and CTbites re-visited to taste Chef Paul’s cuisine and his creative spin to the menu.

Chef Faillia attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park before accepting a position at Burger Bar in South Norwalk. His culinary training continued at Dolce in Norwalk, The Atlantic Grill in Manhattan and The Saltwater Grille in Stamford, where he met Pascarella. He subsequently worked with Chef Dan Kardos at The Whelk and was one of the opening chefs with Chef Kardos at NOLA Oyster Bar.

When Pascarella first approached Failla about joining Bar Sugo, he was looking for a successor to continue his vision of “food that Italians eat every day” while allowing the new chef to add his individual flair to the dishes. Chef Paul accepted the challenge and he is already placing his mark on the menu, focusing on Italian small plates. Guests create their meal from a selection of cheeses with house-cured meats, Bar Sugo’s meatballs (a few modifications are already appearing), up to twenty Cichettis (small plates), six pastas, or one of six brick oven pizzas. He told CTbites, “We will change several items on the menu on a weekly basis.” After an initial visit Chef Paul is succeeding in presenting delicious and full flavored selections.

The “Burrata Bruschetta” was served atop stewed garbanzo beans, arugula pesto and topped with toast points. The Burrata was ultra-creamy and mild in flavor and the Garbanzo beans added a touch of earthiness and a bit of a bite in texture. The highlight was the arugula pesto that added a little saltiness and nuttiness from the Parmesan cheese.

Bar Sugo’s “Brussel Sprouts” was paired with chunks of squash and sautéed with sherry and truffle honey, which created and crispy caramelized exterior. The Brussels sprouts were “like candy,” sweet, crispy and incredibly delicious. This is a great choice to share amongst your group.

The “Octopus” was presented with orange segments, potato wedges, and kale chips, all coated with a harissa infused sauce. The octopus was soft on the interior with just a slight crispiness from the kitchen finishing the presentation on the grill. The octopus was flavorful and the orange segments added a little sweetness and offset the spiciness of the harissa. The kale chips added a little textural contrast but the seasoning was slightly uneven with one receiving all of the salt while the others were missing any hint.

I enjoyed two of the meat options. The “Short Rib” was served atop celery root puree, plus a few fried oysters (not normally included but some local oysters arrived from Norm Bloom earlier in the day). Unlike many other wine-braised short rib preparations, Chef Paul veered slightly from the norm and developed an interpretation of a traditional English combination. The celery root was accented with a horseradish crème fraiche that was a tangy and enjoyable balance to the richness of the beef, creating a modified English Beef with horseradish sauce. The addition of the fried oysters was strange and was more confusing than complementary.
The “Millstone Lamb” was served over a puree of smoked sunchokes, bacon olives and crispy faro. The meat was exceptionally tender and flavorful and the puree added a mild earthiness to the dish. The crispy faro added a surprisingly delightful crunch. This combination was fantastic.

Chef Paul saved the best for last and a special call-out is required for his “Spaghetti Neri,” one of the best pasta preparations I have tasted. The squid ink pasta was served in a smoked tomato sauce with shrimp, and topped with bread crumbs and Bottarga. The pasta was perfectly prepared to al dente and the mild smokiness and spiciness of the tomato sauce was delicious. The entire presentation was elevated with the addition of the Bottarga, salt-cured fish roe that added a brininess to the dish that was fantastic. The shrimp were cooked perfectly with a slight crispiness to the exterior and a soft interior.

Chef Paul prepared an “Apple Panna Cotta” for dessert, topped with an oatmeal streusel and finished with a drizzle of sweet caramel sauce. The apples were first steeped with cinnamon, which created a very mild apple flavor, I would have preferred more from the apple. The streusel added a great crunchiness to the dessert and the caramel sauce was delightful. This was a great way to end the meal.

Moving into the second year of business, Chef Paul Failla is elevating the culinary scene to an otherwise challenging location nestled between stores with similar signage. Once inside, the vibe is alive. The food is exciting and the prices allow for a reasonably priced dinner for a couple or shared plates for a family that will not break the bank while enjoying great company.

Outstanding:

Spaghetti Negri

Really Liked (In Descending Order}:

Millstone Lamb
Brussel Sprouts
Apple Panna Cotta
Short Ribs
Octopus
Burrata Bruschetta

This review was originally posted on http://www.CTbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/12/1/bar-sugo-20-enter-chef-paul-failla.html

Beer Garden (STM) Closes

Posted on December 1, 2013 by jfoodeats

Unfortunately the idea of a beer hall with no food has come and gone.

The Beer Garden in Stamford has closed.

Colette’s (Bloomington) – Traditional French Cuisine in Sheraton Hotel

Posted on November 26, 2013 by jfoodeats

The former Sofitel hotel in Bloomington is now operating under the Sheraton banner and on a traffic-laden Thursday evening I decided to stay in, do some work and eat at Colette’s. Last January I spent a few nights at the Sofitel and enjoyed some of the preparations from the staff at Colette, while others fell flat, so I was a bit apprehensive when I entered the restaurant.

I was immediately seated and the staff quickly arrived, asked for my drink order and offered two varieties of bread, slices of sour dough and a multi-grain mini-roll. I asked for one of each. Both breads were cold but delicious, great flavors and texture.

I ordered the escargot for my appetizer and the Beef Bourguignon for an entrée with a side of asparagus. I was forewarned that the escargot would take 20 minutes, which was not an issue for me.

The escargot dish arrived ten minutes later, there were six escargot, each topped with parsley-garlic butter. They were scalding hot (a head’s up to others). My first bite brought déjà vu from my previous visit. The escargot were cooked perfectly, soft without being chewy, but the chef again shied away from any salt in the presentation. I added a pinch of salt to each and it elevated all of the flavors. What started as a bland dish, ended with great flavors.

The Beef Bourguignon arrived in its own cast iron pot. It contained three good sized pieces, smothered in a deep colored sauce, bacon, mushrooms and baby pearl onions. The first bite was fantastic. The meat was slowly braised for several hours, incredibly tender and absorbed a lot of the rich flavors from the wine sauce. The bacon added a high level of smokiness to the sauce and the onions were sweet, releasing all of their natural sugars. The asparagus were also prepared to create just a mild bite in texture. The Hollandaise sauce was a little mild and did not add anything to the dish. Overall it was a delicious entrée.

For dessert I ordered the Crème Brulée, a large portion served in a deep bowl, versus the traditional flat ramekin, with a thin layer of torched sugar and a few berries. It was extremely smooth and not overly sweet, and when paired with the caramelized sugar created the perfect balance of sweetness.

Overall I was very pleased with this visit to Colette. As a restaurant within a hotel it delivers a delicious alternatives to guests; as a stand-alone option for Bloomington, Edina and Eden Prairie, it offers an excellent choice for a special dinner.

World Street Kitchen (MSP) – Street Food From Asia

Posted on November 22, 2013 by jfoodeats

I wasn’t sure what to expect after my memorable visits to Saffron (one of my favorites) and seeing the photos on-line for WSK. Was this restaurant the polar opposite of the demure setting downtown? Was this really the creation of Sameh Wadi, one of the best chefs in the US and his brother Saed? But then I read the philosophy of WSK…bringing global street foods to the palates of MSP, and I decided to see what this hot-place would offer.

The exterior is best described as basic, lots of windows, not much signage with two doors…enter the door at the right half of the building, not the one with the sign that states “Exit →.” The “foyer” includes a combination cash register / ordering station and above this combo-station is the wall mounted menu, fully emblazoned with sections, and choices within each section.

I ordered three items, the “Kingston 12,” Jerk Beef, slow-cooked beef brisket with mint chimichurri and queso fresco; the “La Panza,” Caramelized Lamb Belly with pickled cucumbers, sesame seeds, basil and secret sauce; and the Korean “BBQ” Beef Short Ribs Lettuce Wrap with house-made kimchi. You pay and receive a number stand which you place on the table and a runner brings the food to your table. With no utensils or napkins on the table, make sure you make a stop at the self-serve area for forks, spoons, chop sticks and napkins. You can also grab a bottle of Sriracha sauce, and if you do not want a bottled beverage, there is a water canteen with carafes and glasses.

Each taco order includes two medium sized tortillas and the Lettuce Wrap is a DIY event.

I started with the short beef brisket tacos and these were delicious. The meat was tender, flavorful with a moderate level of spice. Then the kitchen kicked up the spice level with the pureed mint chimichurri, and mellowed the palate with the crumbled Queso cheese. The three components worked perfectly together. It was a great start to the meal.

Unfortunately the lamb belly did not maintain these standards. The first duet arrived and after two bites I knew this was a non-starter. The cubed belly was vastly overcooked, borderline hard and close to inedible. The server noticed my reaction and saw me push the dish across the table. When I explained, she offered to re-fire and that was a great save. When the replacement arrived, the meat was much better prepared. The belly was accompanied by house made pickle slices and basil leaves, and topped with a sriracha thousand island dressing. The basil and pickles were completely lost under the other two spicy ingredients

The Lettuce Wrap arrived in two paper containers (like those at a hot dog stand at the ballpark), the first contained a large selection of lettuce leaves and the other included two mounds, one meat and the other kimchee. The presentation was incredibly unappetizing, but flavors were over the top fantastic. Take a lettuce leaf, add scoops of the shredded rib meat and a little kimchee, roll and eat. The combination was like none I have eaten in a while. The meat brought spiciness, the kimchee (loaded with shredded carrots) was more sour than spicy and then the sweet crunchiness of the lettuce leaves added the final component. It was delicious.

The staff was scant, the cashier and a couple of runners. Other than the cashier who noticed my “food push” they basically stay to themselves, with zero interaction with the guests. Overall WSK was an interesting adventure. If I were in my 20’s, out with friends I would probably think it was a great inexpensive dinner. Other than the food, the ambiance was lacking, the service was non-existent and it was a get ‘em in, get ‘em out eatery. It has its place as a great quick meal, with great food but you need to know that it is totally different from Saffron.

Post 154 (Westport) – Bold Flavors Dominate Menu

Posted on November 3, 2013 by jfoodeats

I recently attended a press dinner at Post 154 to sample numerous selections from its award winning Chef Alex Rosado’s introductory menu. Overall the dishes were visually artistic in their construct and many presented delicious flavors.

All reviews of Post 154 must include a little history of the building. The 1935 cornerstone outside the entrance commemorates the site’s original purpose as the Westport Post Office, constructed under The New Deal during the Great Depression. Architect Lansing Colton Holden Jr., a World War I flying ace who was awarded the Distinguished Service Cross, designed the building upon his return from battle. The building’s new ownership redesigned the spacious interior with a combination of wood paneling, flowing drapes and relics from the early 1900’s surrounding the tables. A large U-Shaped bar, with over 250 seats, occupies the entire left side and leads to an inviting patio that allows for al fresco dining in warmer weather.

Overseeing the kitchen is Chef Alex Rosado. After graduating from The Culinary School at The Art Institute of Atlanta, Chef Alex worked at several outstanding Atlanta and Florida restaurants. Most recently, he was the Executive Chef at The Dining Room at Little Palm Island Resort & Spa, winning numerous accolades from Zagat’s and fellow chefs. Chef Alex’s opening menu at Post 154 is reflective of his Puerto Rican roots, and expands on the chef’s boldness in fusing flavors and ingredients from other regions.

The event started with three “Small Plates;” the “Portuguese Octopus” with avocado, red chili sauce and EVOO, “The Bowl of Mussels” with Chorizo, shallots, roasted garlic in a saffron wine broth, and “Lobster Quesadillas” with huitlacoche, Queso Chihuahua, salsa and avocado. The octopus was outstanding. Chef Alex braised the octopus for four hours before marinating in a key lime vinaigrette. The texture of the octopus was soft and delicate, a major accomplishment, and the red chili sauce added a touch of spice. I also enjoyed the mussels, which were large and served in a slightly spiced broth. The lobster quesadilla was not to my liking. The lobster was overwhelmed by the bold flavors of the other ingredients..

Shortly thereafter, the table received the “Eggplant Meatball Parmesan,” the “Duck Confit Taquitos” and a portion of “St. Louis Style Ribs.” The eggplant meatballs and the duck taquitos were outstanding. The meatballs were served in tomato gravy with three cheeses, truffles and herbs. They were soft and luscious and were delicious when combined with the tomato gravy and melted cheeses.The duck taquitos were rolled tortillas filled with a slow roasted duck, lightly deep fried and served with roasted tomato salsa, guacamole, and Cojita cheese sitting atop tomato salsa. The duck filling was rich in flavor and the guacamole and fried tortillas provided delightful textural differences. The ribs were paired with Chili BBQ sauce, liquid black beans and mango stew. The meat was very tender and moist but somewhat tasteless, while the Chili BBQ sauce provided excellent flavor.

The meal continued at a good pace with the arrival of the “Golden Corn Bisque” with grilled corn, crème fraiche and chives. This was one of the best bisques I have eaten. Chef Alex prepared the stock from the corn cobs, added the cooked kernels and pureed for thickness. He finished the soup with a few grilled kernels and a dollop of crème fraiche. The bisque was delicious, and the crème fraiche added the correct amount of tang to the soup.

At this point the service slowed to a painful crawl. While the first three courses arrived within 90 minutes the three entrees arrived intermittently over the next 90 minutes. The first entrees to arrive were the “Scallops & Grits” and the “Salmon.” The “Scallops & Grits” was served with spinach, smoked ham jus, and topped with Tabasco Crisps, and delivered some delightful flavors. The scallop was sweet and perfectly seared, and the course-ground grits and ham jus were very good. I liked the flavors of each of the ingredients but I was not as fond of their combination. The “Salmon“ was paired with pickled fennel, smoked tomato coulis, and maple lime butter. The combination of flavors did not work. The sweet maple butter was too sweet and the pickled fennel did not complement the salmon.

After another extended wait the “Guava BBQ Pork Tenderloin” with a black bean stew and the “C.A.B. Churrasco Steak” with Argentinian Chimichurri arrived with a few side dishes. The pork tenderloin was delicious. The exterior of the pork loin was rubbed with a spicy blend and cooked perfectly to medium. The black bean stew complemented the spiciness of the pork. I was not fond of the steak, which was very fatty, and sat in too much oil from the Chimichurri, which was more onion and oil versus the traditional vinegar based sauce.

The menu also contains numerous sweet desserts to end the meal. They include “Apple Empanadas” with a red hot cinnamon dip and liquid cream cheese, a “Chocolate Flan” with Tuaca fired oranges, and a Tres Leches with wild berry stew.

Overall many of the creative dishes that Chef Alex prepared were outstanding, and the Post 154’s extensive menu of nearly thirty-five different choices of small plates, soups, salads and entrees allows each guest to construct a meal to satisfy any appetite. On a Thursday night the restaurant and bar were both packed and the vibe was fantastic. If you carefully select from Chef Alex’s bold creations you will have a memorable meal, but the kitchen needs to work on the pace of the courses leaving the kitchen.

Review originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/11/3/post-154-opens-in-westport-in-old-post-office-building.html?SSScrollPosition=0

Really Liked – Portuguese Octopus, Eggplant Meatball Parmesan, Duck Confit Taquitos, Golden Corn Bisque, Guava BBQ Pork Tenderloin;

Liked -The Bowl of Mussels;

Did Not Like – Lobster Quesadillas, St. Louis Style Ribs, Scallops & Grits, Salmon, C.A.B. Churrasco Steak.

154 Post Road East, Westport, CT, 06880 – (203) 454-0154

This review was originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/11/3/post-154-opens-in-westport-in-old-post-office-building.html

Jfood Eats

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