Tag Archives: travel

Bar Bête: A Cozy Cobble Hill Gem Serving Elevated Comfort and Creativity

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We decided to try Bar Bête, a highly recommended restaurant in the Cobble Hill section of Brooklyn for a dinner with the family.

When we walked into the restaurant, we were immediately greeted with a warm welcome from the host. Behind his stand to the left, a few tables stretched toward the large windows overlooking Smith Street, filling the space with a relaxing glow. To the right of the entrance was a small bar with a handful of seats, and just beyond it, more tables lined the back wall, extending to the rear of the dining area.

The interior struck a nice balance, traditional with just the right touch of modern chic, and the atmosphere was already filled with lively buzz that set the tone for what felt like a promising evening. We were seated at a window table, which offered a great view, though we could feel a slight chill creeping in as the season started to turn cooler.

After looking over the menu, the four of us decided the best way to enjoy the chef’s creations was to share both small and large plates so we could really experience what looked like a very creative offering. Definitely the right call.

The first dish to arrive was the Chicken Liver Parfait, which was served in a tall ramekin, the smooth chicken liver mousse filled one side, while the other held a generous scoop of the apple spread, both topped with chopped pistachios and a delicate gelee. Four large, toasted slices of bread towered alongside, ready for spreading. The mousse itself was outstanding, rich, velvety, and deeply flavorful, its intensity pleasantly dominating the sweeter and crunchier accompaniments. The bread was excellent, crispy and hearty enough to handle the richness of the mousse. Overall, this was an indulgent starter, best enjoyed when shared since soloing might be too much of a good thing.

We also ordered the Little Salad (photo above), tossed with mushrooms à la grecque, crispy shallots, and a mustard vinaigrette. Again, it’s a great dish for sharing, probably too much for one person. The greens were crisp and refreshing, and I loved the sweetness and crunch of the fried shallots. The mushrooms added a nice tangy note that balanced everything. The only thing I wasn’t totally enamored with was the vinaigrette, it was a little too spicy for me, it detracted from the freshness of the other components (the table was 50-50 on the spiciness comment). Others enjoyed this more than me, a little too peppery for my palate.

The first pasta dish that was served was the Ricotta Gnudi, topped with sprouting broccoli pesto, maitake mushrooms, and cracked spices. This was hands-down my favorite dish of the night and one I’ll remember. Eight golf ball-sized gnudi arrived nestled under a layer of bright green pesto and surrounded by tender mushrooms. The texture of the gnudi was spot on, a delicate outer layer that gave way to a luxuriously creamy center. The broccoli pesto was a revelation, vibrant, earthy, and the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the ricotta. Add the earthiness of the mushrooms, and every bite just worked. A beautifully balanced, perfectly composed dish from start to finish.

On a completely different flavor profile was the Spaghetti alla Chitarra, served with Portuguese sardines, chervil gremolata, and bottarga, one of my favorites. The spaghetti came piled high, thoroughly mixed with the sardines, then topped with loads of the chervil and plenty of bottarga.  Sardines are an acquired taste, I happen to love them, and this dish was clearly built to highlight their bold, umami character. After several bites I just wished the sardines took a small step back so the chervil and bottarga could have contributed more. I really liked the dish overall, but the sardines were so dominant that the chervil and bottarga barely had a chance to compete.

Last, but definitely not least, was the Wagyu Strip Steak, topped with eggplant dauphine, griddled scallion, and finished with a smoked beef fat vinaigrette. The steak was two deboned, thin, seared slices of steak, topped with a few crispy eggplant dauphines and then a few charred scallions scattered over it. It was absolutely delicious, the steak was cooked perfectly to a juicy medium-rare, bursting with flavor. When you combined a bite that included the beef, a bit of the eggplant and scallion together, it was incredible. I only wish this was a bigger portion, more the size of the spaghetti offering.

Service was spot on, our server was present when needed, responsive, thoughtful and was able to guide our table to the correct number of dishes to order.

Overall, our dinner at Bar Bête was a delicious dining experience that lived up to its reputation. Every dish showed real attention to flavor, texture, and presentation, with the ricotta gnudi and wagyu steak standing out as clear winners. The atmosphere was lively, yet comfortable, and the service struck that perfect balance of friendly and professional. Bar Bête is that neighborhood spot that feels both special and approachable, a place you put on your rotation for a special and relaxed evening of great food and conversation.

263 Smith St, Brooklyn, NY 11231

121 Restaurant and Bar (North Salem, NY) – A Hidden Gem in Plain Sight

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Whether you are traveling north or south on Route 121 in North Salem, it would be a great idea to stop at 121 Restaurant and Bar. Located on the rural portion of this state road, a few miles south of its intersection with I-84, the restaurant is recognizable from its farmer’s porch and singular sign. Inside, you’ll find a mix of bar and table seating, and in good weather, enjoy a table on its wrap-around porch. 121 offers some really good food in a relaxed environment.

On a quiet Sunday afternoon, we chose an outside table with out of state friends. I decided to order the Fried Chicken Sandwich, described on the menu as crispy fried chicken thighs, Jalapeno cabbage slaw, shallot aioli, pickles, on a toasted brioche bun, served with Old Bay shoestring fries. Sounds like a winner, but I wasn’t sure how spicy the slaw would be with the addition of the jalapeño, so I asked that this be served on the side.

I am a big fan of fried chicken (who isn’t) and using the thighs makes it better, juicier, more flavorful and much less likely to be served dry as a result of overcooking badly prepared than the breast.

When it arrived, it looked great, the chicken was golden brown, with a few slices of pickles beneath, with the shallot aioli hidden under the top half of the brioche, a side of slaw sat next to the sandwich. The fries were served in the now-standard silver chalice. I first tasted the slaw to determine its spiciness, barely any hint, it was creamy and could definitely join the other ingredients between the bun.

The first bite was delicious, the chicken was moist, flavorful, crunchy, and the bread-coating had just a touch of seasoning. The pickles were fantastic, probably house-made with just a little sourer than a half & half, and the slaw added a delightful creaminess. I would be remiss if I did not mention a special callout for the brioche bun, it was one of the best I have enjoyed in a long time, it was buttery, light and sweet. I would give this sandwich a 10.

I wish I were as enamored with the fries. They were good but took a backseat to the sandwich. We also ordered a side of sweet potato fries. While the exterior was very crispy, the interior would have benefited from a little more time in the fryer.

Overall, 121 Restaurant and Bar was a delightful choice to meet our friends and exactly what I was hoping for. The fried chicken sandwich was outstanding, and on our next visit I would order one for the table to share. This is definitely on the A-list as an off-the-beaten-path stop for a relaxed meal.

Overall, 121 Restaurant and Bar was the perfect spot to meet friends and delivered exactly what I was hoping for. The fried chicken sandwich was the clear standout, the next time I’d order one just for the table to share. With its off-the-beaten-path vibe and cuisine, 121 earns a solid place on the A-list for a relaxed and memorable meal.

2 Dingle Ridge Rd, North Salem, NY 10560

 (914) 669-0121

121restaurant.com

Fair Haven Oyster Co. Delivers Casual Charm & Serious Flavor

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Located overlooking the scenic Quinnipiac River in the northeast section of New Haven, Fair Haven Oyster Company offers a tranquil escape with a focus on fresh, locally inspired cuisine. On a beautiful summer evening, I was fortunate enough to snag an outdoor table right on the rail. With the river gently flowing beside us, two of us enjoyed a relaxing meal centered around fresh ingredients and thoughtfully prepared seafood.

Fair Haven Oyster Company is housed in a modest wooden structure that does not give justice to the dining experience. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a friendly hostess who escorted us to the back patio. Other seating options include reservable bar seats and tables along the barn-boarded interior walls that give the space a rustic, casual charm. Fortunately for us, we were headed out to the porch, which turned out to be the perfect setting for a relaxed and memorable summer evening.

The menu reflected the bounty of the season, with a strong emphasis on fish and seafood. Visiting in mid-July, it included a generous selection of fresh salads and seafood preparations, all highlighting the kitchen’s commitment to high-quality ingredients and simplicity.

We started the evening with two very different appetizers that we both wanted to try. It was the perfect way to sample a bit more of what the kitchen had to offer, and to set the tone for the meal ahead.

The first appetizer was the tomatoes and ricotta, served with grilled cucumber, torn basil, fried shallots and bottarga. Generously portioned, it was easily shareable between the two of us. The presentation began with a broad smear of creamy ricotta as the base, topped with four thick tomato slices, two red and two yellow, along with a handful of cherry tomatoes and the grilled cucumber. The cucumbers, which seemed to have been lightly pickled before grilling, added a tangy contrast, and the scattered fried shallots and shavings of bottarga brought texture and umami, while torn basil and a drizzle of olive oil finished the dish. The tomatoes were bright, refreshing, and full of flavor, though one slice was slightly overripe and lacked the firmness of the others. Still, the combination of textures and flavors worked beautifully. It was a strong start to the meal, a solid 8.

We also ordered the baby lettuces with fried oysters, green goddess dressing, pickled shallots, and bonito. This was also a generous portion, and we enjoyed sharing both the appetizers. A mix of red and green leaf lettuces formed the base, lightly dressed in just enough green goddess to enhance, without overwhelming. The pickled shallots and bonito flakes added a slight depth and complexity. The fried oysters, about half a dozen, were cooked perfectly, but the coating lacked any noticeable seasoning (on a subsequent visit the seasoning on the oysters was much better), which was the one shortcoming of the dish, and kept it from reaching its full potential. I’d give the first visit a 7, which increased to a 9 with the properly seasoned oysters.

For my entrée, I chose one of my favorite fishes, a bone-in skate wing (pictured above), pan-seared and served with capers, Meyer lemon, tomato preserves, and brown butter. The result was nothing short of spectacular. Although the server offered to debone it, I declined, part of the eating pleasure of eating skate is carefully removing the meat immediately prior to each bite. The piece was cooked to perfection, with the flesh remaining moist and rich, while the quick pan-sear added a delightful contrast in texture. Each element on the plate contributed beautifully, the Meyer lemon sauce was bright and zesty, the capers brought just the right hint of saltiness, and the sun-dried tomatos delivered a delightful, concentrated burst of flavor. Altogether, it was a flawlessly executed dish, an easy 10.

My wife ordered the grilled Dorade, served with Gigante beans, artichoke, and preserved lemon, another standout. The whole fish arrived marked with symmetric cross-hatched grill lines. After removing the head and tail, the first bite confirmed that the preparation was as great as the presentation. We were pleasantly surprised that the fish was deboned (this was a positive versus my desire to de-bone my Skate), and the first bite delivered a perfect balance of crispy skin and tender, moist flesh. The Dorade was nestled atop a smooth Gigante bean purée, with additional whole beans layered over the fish for added texture. To complete the presentation, the kitchen added a few deep-fried artichoke halves, which brought both visual appeal and a satisfying crunch. It was easily one of the best preparations of Dorade we’ve ever had, another easy 10.

Service was as good as the entrees, flawless, unobtrusive and present when required.

Fair Haven Oyster Company strikes a rare balance, an unfussy environment within friendly surroundings, a thoughtful menu, and a laid-back, yet attentive service. It is a wonderful way to spend an evening.

307 Front St, New Haven, CT 06513

(203) 745-5741

https://www.fairhavenoysterco.com/

Community Table – New Chef Bolivar Hilario Brings Sublime Elegance

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“Community table’s mission is to sustainably prepare the highest quality, locally grown, and procured ingredients to serve its community in a casual, vibrant atmosphere. Ct values its partnerships with local farms that bring the best produce of the season to create delicious recipes for their customer’s enjoyment each time they visit the restaurant.”

From Community table Website

Community table is housed in a nondescript, quaint structure on Route 202 in New Preston, and presents a dining experience that blends effortlessly into its rural setting. The only recognizable landmark to announce your arrival is a simplistic roadside sign with a singular orange “Ct” logo on a white background, reflecting the restaurant’s core value: a strong focus on community with an upper case “C” and a less formal, more shared dining experience at the table with a lower case “t”. A farmer’s porch extends across the front of the building, and a large parking lot is located to one side. The entrance is immediately to the left of a striking, vertically soaring, organic, red metal sculpture, leading guests directly into the bar area.

The hostess extends a warm greeting when you enter the bar, the most lively of the restaurant’s three dining areas. Choose this room or wander down the hallway to the right and into the second room, which provides both a communal atmosphere with its large table, or a few intimate, two-person tables. Continue to the third, and my personal favorite, secluded back room, which blends warmth and elegance, creating a relaxed atmosphere for conversation amongst the couples, as well as shared amongst friends.

Overseeing the kitchen since September 2023 is head chef Bolivar Hilario, who describes his culinary style as a fusion of his family’s Mexican heritage with French, Italian, Nordic and Japanese influences. He was raised in Florida, and once he found his passion for cooking, he travelled to New York and worked for Enrique Olvera, the world-renowned Mexican chef at Cosme, thereafter he broadened his skills at Aska, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant known for its Scandinavian-inspired cuisine, Chumley’s, the Michelin-starred Musket Room, and 69 Leonard and Shoji, where he was introduced to Japanese theories and techniques. He credits the experiences at 69 Leonard and Shoji as his epiphany to the Japanese centuries-honed principles of preparation and allowing the food to speak for the dish, a constant he currently incorporates into each of his creations at Ct.

The menu exposes the guests to flavors and textures to dazzle the palate, unveiling combinations designed to awaken the senses. Espousing the Farm to Table mantra, Halario has developed relationships with local growers like Renée Giroux at Earth’s Palate in Warren, The Oracle Mushroom Company in Kent and Crafted Brew Lab in Bantam and as well as others in the region. Wanting the guests to enjoy these bounties year-round, he not only prepares the fresh vegetables and herbs for the daily menu but also preserves and ferments many for his winter guests to enjoy.

I highly recommend starting the culinary adventure by ordering the house-made six-grain sourdough bread with herb butter. Hilario’s personal sourdough starter is the foundation of the bread, baked fresh several days per week. This is one of the most delicious breads anywhere, served with herb butter, and showcases a firm crust and a moist, opaque interior, delivering a richness that sets the stage for the remainder of your visit.

The current menu offers several delightful options, the first a Blue Corn flour tlayuda. This dish, akin to a flat, topped taco, features house-made, extra-thin tortillas layered with a savory salsa macha base, generously adorned with locally sourced Oracle mushrooms, a creamy caramelized cauliflower puree, delicate tiny purple onions, vibrant Earth’s Palate flowers (from Warren, CT), and a scattering of queso fresco. It was presented in four wedges, and the visual composition was matched only by its remarkable flavors. The first bite was an explosion of flavors and textures, beginning with the earthiness of a myriad of mushrooms and other vegetables and herbs, and finishes with a shot of spiciness.

For those interested in a bright and light entrée, choose the steamed squash blossoms, stuffed with shrimp mousseline, Guajillo pepper, squash, Earth’s Palate shiso, red pepper mole, and topped with wild forage tiger lily petals. While squash blossoms are normally filled with cheese and fried, Halario’s presentation softens the approach with a steamed version, stuffed with a mousseline of Gulf shrimp, cream, chives and a touch of one of his favorite herbs, tarragon. The dish was finished with a light sauce made from the shrimp shells to which he added some dashi from his Japanese training, plus chive and ramp oils. He described the dish as “local meets Japanese…with my heritage of Mexican cuisine.” The dish was fantastic, light, flavorful and full of aromatics from the oils and herbs.

Leave room for dessert because the new dessert chef is creating incredible final acts.

The first was a deconstructed “strawberry shortcake” which takes the three basic elements, sweet strawberries, tender almond gluten-free shortcake, and rich whipped cream, to a higher level with the addition of a scoop of strawberry ice cream, slightly spiked with a touch of vodka. The composition began with the cylindrical deliciousness of the shortbread, which was about as perfect as any I have tasted, then the chef surrounded this disk with a delightful and deliciously creamy whipped cream. The final element, the strawberries, which have been poached in lemon verbena to enhance the fruit’s natural sweetness were placed atop. The chef topped this creation with dehydrated strawberry flakes. The addition of the strawberry ice cream elevated this traditional dessert to a new level with additional flavors. The strawberry shortcake was brilliantly prepared.

The other highly recommended dessert is the flourless chocolate cake with house-made coffee ice cream and puffed quinoa. Where do I begin describing these three levels of perfection? The chocolate cake was over-the-top outstanding, moist, chocolatey, with richness oozing from every bite. This alone would have been completely satisfying, but Halario added a scoop of Ct’s house-made coffee ice cream that sat atop the cake. Then, for some textural fun, Halario added a sprinkling of puffed quinoa. The complete bite brought so many delicious sweets and crunch to the palate; it was perfect in every way.

Overall, Connecticut table is one of the best restaurants in the state. Devoid of any pretense, it harvests the natural flavors of the ingredients using century-old techniques with modern flair. The environment is relaxing to the senses, while the cuisine elevates each aspect of the ingredients in combinations that tantalize every part of the palate. Chef Halario’s journey to understand numerous cuisines is a complete success in every dish.

223 Litchfield Turnpike (Rt. 202)

New Preston CT 06777

860-868-9354

communitytablect.com

il Buco al Mare – Best Restaurant in The Hamptons

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Let’s just say it… il Buco al Mare is the best restaurant in the Hamptons. This is a very strong statement given the number of culinary options, but after numerous visits, I stand by that statement…every visit has been perfect in every aspect. The food is impeccable from the preparation to the plating and most importantly to the flavors, there is perfection in every step. Add to this the vibrant interior space and the relaxing garden out back and this is a spot for a casual shared dinner or a special occasion.

On this last visit, it was a cold June evening, and we braved the low 60s temperature and sat in the garden. The server approached promptly to take drink orders, and we simultaneously asked for the mushroom focaccia, we had to get the evening started.

Over the next two hours, our table enjoyed six incredible dishes.

The focaccia was topped with roasted eggplant, tomato, fresh mozzarella, anchovy, peperoncino and oregano ($25). This is no ordinary focaccia, which is normally cut and served in a basket, but il Buco’s was the love child of focaccia and pizza. It resembles a pizza with extremely puffy edges and a circle of goodness in the center. The crust was delicious, and the toppings were fantastic. I could make a meal of a flight of every focaccia on the menu. A great start for the meal and an easy 10.

We next moved to the main event with a pasta, two entrées and a couple of sides.

For our pasta choice, we opted for the Spaghetti with bottarga, peperoncino, garlic, lemon and parsley ($30). We are big fans of bottarga, a cured fish roe and the combination looked great, and it was. The pasta was cooked perfectly to al dente and the light, citrusy sauce exploded with every bite, plus a little saltiness from the bottarga. Another 10.

The star of the evening was the Smoked Senat chicken with cilantro chermoula, Tokyo turnips, labneh and berbere oil ($46). I consider this dish the best chicken in the Hamptons, in NY, and in America, yes, it is that good. A large, half chicken was carved into four pieces, leg, thigh and a split breast, smoked and roasted to a deep golden hue. The meat absorbed loads of smokiness and remained super moist, and the crispy skin was brilliant. Add a few of the accouterments (I loved the tiny Tokyo turnips) to each bite and experience numerous flavor combinations and textures. I could go on raving about this dish forever. I obviously give this dish a 10+++

The other entrée we ordered was the Skirt steak, chimichurri + sunchokes ($45), which was a nice 8–10-ounce portion, served with a bright and fragrant chimichurri and small halved sunchokes. Skirt steak is very underrated, but it is one of my favorite cuts since it delivers so much flavor. The meat was expertly prepared to our medium-rare / medium request and was full of deep flavors. The chimichurri was bright and fragrant and complemented the richness of the steak perfectly. This dish was an easy 9, it was great but it was sitting next to perfection.

We ordered two sides, the first was the crispy cannellini beans, celery, parsley and lemon ($18). The beans portion was a little smaller than we have received in the past, but the beans were delicious, crispy on the outside and still moist and soft on the interior. I give the cannellini beans a 9 (I wanted more).

Our second side was the Broccolini with lemon and chili ($18). We always ask about the spice level when we see chili and were told it was not that spicy. The spice level was better described as negligible, the earthiness of the large portion of broccolini was outstanding. This dish deserved a 10, which may be a first for me.

Service was even better than impeccable, rare that there was not a single slip, even minor, by any of the staff.

Overall, this was a perfect dinner in a perfect setting with perfect food and perfect service.

231 Main St, Amagansett, NY 11930

Phone: (631) 557-3100

https://ilbuco.com/pages/il-buco-al-mare

Wayan & Madé – Indonesian Pop-Up in The Hamptons

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When people think about a cuisine, it is rare that they answer “Indonesian.” For me, I do not think I have ever eaten Indonesian food, and after making a reservation at Wayan & Madé in Springs, NY, also known as the northern side of East Hampton, I thought it would be a good idea to do a little research. What I found was a combination of sweet, savory and influenced by international diversity. Not overly helpful, so I went with little knowledge and an open mind.

Wayan & Madé is located adjacent to EHP Resort on Three Mile Harbor Hog Creek Rd. in the Springs section of East Hampton and is the pop-up restaurant of Chef Cédric Vongerichten and Ochi Vongerichten (children of NYC super-chef Jean George Vongerichten). When we arrived for an early reservation, we were seated at the windows overlooking the harbor. The view was very relaxing, and the dining room filled to capacity over the next 90 minutes. A quick perusal of the menu indicated that a knowledgeable server and access to using google would be essential to developing a thoughtful meal.

As first-timers with Indonesian cuisine, we decided to plan a family-style meal and see where it led. Our order included three appetizers, two mains and two sides. As a head’s up, we ordered all the dishes at the beginning and this was a mistake, since the kitchen just starts cooking without regard to pace and separation of course, our two mains arrived while we were still eating the appetizers. We asked them to return them to the kitchen and give us about 15 minutes between finishing the appetizers and bringing the entrees. My suggestion is to order everything but tell the server not to fire the entrees until s/he checks in with you.

My thoughts on the dishes:

Vegetable spring rolls with green chili emulsion and mint. The rolls were two extra-long and narrow tubes filled with an array of slightly spicy vegetables. The dish is served with a green chili emulsion which was superb. The wrappers were thin, and very crispy, while the filling was soft, a great complement. I loved the flavors, and the emulsion was so good we kept it to use with some of the other dishes. Dish was a 9

Tuna tartare with green chili sambal, avocado, and nori. This dish was not the most pleasant from a visual perspective, but the flavors were fresh and bright. I was a little surprised by the lack of spiciness in the presentation, the natural flavors of the tuna were present, it just felt the uptick in spice was a little lacking. I give the dish a 7

Fluke sashimi with calamansi dressing, and makrut lime. The fluke was served with a lovely sauce and spiciness. The fish was fresh, bright, and delicious. The toppings beautifully complemented the sashimi with a bit of spice and crunch. It was a very light option. I give the dish an 8.

Slow cooked butterfish with calamansi miso, and green asparagus. What exactly is butterfish? When it was presented, we all asked ourselves if this was butterfish or Chilean sea bass…it looked, tasted and flaked just like CSB. The next question is what is calamansi? It is described as a cross between lime and mandarin oranges, delivering pungent sour notes. The fish was prepared very well, maybe a touch overcooked, was a little on the small side (maybe 3-4 ounces) and glazed with the tangy miso. While it was a very nice dish, I think the miso was a little too tart for the fish, and with the smallness of the portion, I can only give it a 6.

Charred pork ribs with a soy tamarind glaze, and sesame seeds. Unlike the fish, the ribs initially looked like a very large portion. The flavors were great, finished with a delicious sauce, and fall-off-the-bone tender. The downside was the amount of meat on each bone was a little light. While I liked the flavors, the amount of the meat was a little disappointing and can only give it an 8.

Nasi Goreng with egg, pickled chili, and cilantro. I think the winner of the night was the Nasi Goreng, which is the national dish of Indonesia. And the restaurant prepared a great version. If you are wondering what it is, think fried rice, and this one had a soft egg atop. The flavors, texture and balance were great, loved the oozing egg and complemented the other two entrées. I absolutely give this dish a 10.

Chocolate mousse served with avocado ice cream. Remember that the owner’s father is Jean Georges, a master in French cooking, which explains the absolutely brilliant chocolate mousse. But this is an Indonesian restaurant, so they added a few crispy chocolate pieces atop the mousse and accompanied the mousse with avocado ice cream, yup avocado. The mousse was spectacular, and the ice cream was delicious. This was an easy 10.

We also ordered the King Oyster Mushrooms that were charcoal kissed, with sambal hijou. They were pretty much inedible. The kitchen placed so much salt on the mushrooms, that we all stopped after one bite. The dish was removed from the table and the check. No need to rate a DNR.

Overall, this was our introduction to Indonesian cuisine, and I was very excited when we arrived. A few of the dishes were spectacular while others I thought failed a little. The meal started with three great appetizers and then took a pause, primarily in the size of the portions; both entrées were on the smallish side. As a pop-up restaurant for the summer, Wayan & Madé is a place you should visit to experience the cuisine of Indonesia.

313 Three Mile Harbor Hog Creek Rd.

East Hampton, NY 11937

(631) 439-0785

Beacon (Sag Harbor) – Very Good, But Pricey and Rushed

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Located just west of downtown Sag Harbor and overlooking the harbor, Beacon offers elevated bar food, in a vibrant setting, with limited seating, both outside under the awning as well as tables inside.

A few items you need to be aware of. First, the prices reflect the location and the fact they are only open seasonally and secondly, there is a strict time limit on tables (with a slight grace period to pay the check) of 90 minutes for a foursome. This is a shared responsibility of the kitchen and guests to accommodate so do not delay in placing your order, and you are lucky if you have time on the clock for dessert.

Our visit included two appetizers for the table and a companion and I shared an entrée. We would have ordered desserts but we ran out of time.

A quick overview of the dishes we enjoyed.

CLASSIC CAESAR SALAD W/ HEARTS OF ROMAINE, ANCHOVY, PARMESAN, GARLIC & CROSTINI ($21) (Above) – This version included whole romaine leaves with a good amount of dressing and a large dusting of grated parmesan. The crouton was one large piece and was a little difficult to maneuver and enjoy. The salad was a little overdressed which was to my liking. This is a large salad and easily shared between 2 people as a normal-sized starter. I give it a 7

TUNA TARTARE* W/ CAPERS, WHOLE GRAIN MUSTARD, CUCUMBER, RED CURRY PASTE & POTATO CHIPS (RAW) ($25) – A medium-sized mound of nicely prepared tuna. Do not be afraid that the menu states red curry paste, it did not increase the spiciness but did add a nice deep element to the dish. The chips were also seasoned and were very good. This size was a little smallish given the other sized dishes. I think others at the table enjoyed it more than I did, but I did like it. I give it a 6

DUROC PORK CHOP MILANESE W/ FRISÉE, ROASTED TOMATOES, CARAMELIZED ONIONS, CREAMY TRUFFLE VINAIGRETTE & SHAVED PARMESAN ($46) – Two of us shared the dish as the pork medallion was enormous. It was pounded super-thin, breaded and fried. It was nicely seasoned and still maintained its flavor. I thought the breading-meat ratio was a little heavy to the breading side and a touch oversalted. The salad that sat atop was very large, full of flavor, and like the Caesar was over-dressed, approaching soggy. I really liked the addition of the roasted tomatoes and caramelized onions to give a different flavor profile. I give the dish an 8.

Overall, I liked Beacon with reservations. Given the high prices and the requirement to rush through the meal, I am somewhat reluctant to return prior to Labor Day, maybe after the summer crowd leaves it will be less of a rush. When I am spending this kind of money in a bar atmosphere, I do not want to inhale my meal or feel I am about to cause an issue. The staff handled everything professionally, I would just like a little less watch the clock pressure.

8 W Water St, Sag Harbor, NY 11963

(631) 725-7088

beaconsagharbor.com

Death by Pizza in Delray Beach – Pizza to Die For

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Death by Pizza…what a way to go!!

I have been very fortunate in my pizza journey. I grew up with New Jersey style, spent a ton of time in NYC eating some of the best New York style, time in DC where Greek style pizza is prevalent, two years in Chicago enjoying thin-crust, stuffed and deep-dish and over 20 years in CT, enjoying New Haven style. The one box that was not checked was Detroit style, and when I started hearing that Death by Pizza in Delray Beach was serving some killer Detroit, it was time for a visit.

The West Delray location is west of nowhere, in a strip mall on West Atlantic west of the FL Turnpike and west of Lyons, for those who know the area. This non-descript storefront has one word on the building, “PIZZA.” Inside there is more than one word…delicious, fantastic, brilliant, unbelievable…just keep going.

They only serve Detroit style, and I am a bit embarrassed to say this was my first foray into Detroit pizza. I have yet another word to describe this pizza, outrageous. Let’s start with what I was served. DBP serves freshly made to order and slices (think Joe’s in the West Village of NYC). I only wanted a couple of slices (should I call them squares?) and they reheated the two I ordered, so these were reheated for those who want to scream “they are burnt.”

The first was the Roni Jabroni (ezzo’s pepperoni cups, mozzarella & sweet sauce). The crust was great, the sauce had a little spice to it and the ‘roni were cupped, crispy and fantastic. This was a perfect 10.

I also wanted to go out of my normal comfort zone and ordered a square of Mr. White (whipped ricotta, mozzarella & basil pesto). Same delicious crust with the topping reminiscent of the insides of a great ravioli plus the pesto added another great flavor. Another 10.

Overall, I was a little nervous as I drove and entered, but when I took my first bite, I was sold that Detroit style pizza deserves all the accolades it receives. And Death by Pizza deserves all the accolades it receives.

DOWNTOWN DELRAY (Take out only)  528 NE 2nd St. Delray Beach, FL 33483 (561) 666-9111  WEST DELRAY (Dine-in and take out) 15065 FL-7 BAY 400 Delray Beach, FL 33446 (561) 666-8976  
Death by Pizza

Gordon Ramsay Burger (Las Vegas) – What a Disaster

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Who am I to take shots at the restaurant of a world renown chef who has earned 17 Michelin stars?

I am almost embarrassed by writing a review of a restaurant that represents the TV personality who has entertained me for years, but when that restaurant totally performs multiple nose-plants and tarnishes the renown chef’s name and reputation, someone needs to throw the BS flag.

I have watched so many different series by Chef Ramsay, and my visit to Ramsay Burger in Las Vegas was more watching the first 10 minutes of Kitchen Nightmare then his offering a Head Chef position to an up-and-coming super-talent. It was a complete and utter disaster, there is no way that Chef Ramsay would like my experience.

From start to finish, there was barely a single touchpoint where Ramsay should be proud.

After I was seated, I was handed a menu with no prices. When I asked the server, she blamed the printer, but they were expecting the new menus the “end of the week,” yet it was a Thursday evening. I later found out that the server was supposed to tell the customer about a QR code to take you to the on-line menu, but mine did not know this. I was eventually told by the manager, clicked to the website and even the website did not have the prices (hard to blame the printer on this).

So much for the customer to menu interface.

I ordered the Backyard Burger, which is served with American cheese, butter lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, and red onion. I ordered mine medium-rare without the onion. I also asked if I could have 50-50 fries and onion rings. After I was told a resounding “No,” I asked for the fries and then asked for a separate order of onion rings. Again, there was a resounding “no” from the server. Time for a manger visit, who apologized for the menus and told me he would make the French fries and onion rings happen.

When the burger arrived, it was overcooked, the fries were a measly portion, and the onion rings were cold and hard. (As an aside they did place the raw red onion on the burger). I asked for a re-fire. The server removed the rings and burger but left the fries. About 10 minutes later they brought a new order of rings, but no burger. The rings were piping hot but not very good, way too much breading. I ate one and decided these were not worth the effort.

The burger finally arrived, and I cut in half, again way overcooked but I was not asking for #3, so I took a deep breath and took a bite. The burger was absolutely tasteless, no seasoning and while the menu says they are cooked over wood to add flavor, mine had none. The tomatoes were oldish. I asked for fresh fries so I could have what I ordered in a single seating. I ate half the burger, a few fries and called it a night.

As I waited for the check, I can almost hear Chef Ramsay yell “shut it down.” Two tries at a simple burger, fries and onions rings, and each was poorly executed.

My review:

  • no prices on the menu, they tell you to go to the website for the prices and none there as well
  • two burgers, neither cooked close to requested doneness,
  • the burgers were completely tasteless patties
  • the tomatoes were aged,
  • they served the raw onion on the burger when it was ordered without the onion
  • the onion rings were first served cold and hard and, when hot, they were not very good.
  • the manager tried hard with a re-fire; the second round was just as bad, he was at the mercy of a completely unfocused kitchen.

I give (out of 10):

  • Burger – 1
  • Fries – 2
  • Onion rings – 1
  • Service – A nice try
  • Manager – at the mercy of a poorly executing kitchen
  • Kitchen – send them back to cooking school

Why Papa’s Pizza is a Must-Visit in Milford

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I love discovering places that get very little fanfare, are the heart and soul of the owner(s), and absolutely kill it. Papa’s Pizza in Milford is one of those places and is the epitome of a hole in the wall on the side of the road that deserves recognition for some killer pizza.

The original Papa’s Pizza is located closer to Walnut Beach versus downtown Milford (where Papa’s Pizza II is located), and I was getting a little nervous as the soccer ball at the end of the purple line on Waze was quickly approaching, and there was no sign of Papa’s. On my right there was a bakery, a breakfast joint and a parking lot. As I slowed to a crawl and stared into the lot (my apologies again to the people in the car behind me), the far section of the white building had two red words above a small window, “Papa’s Pizza.” Success. I pulled into a parking spot and slowly walked to the window. Was I in the right place…this was literally a hole in the wall on the side of a nondescript white building at the end of a small parking lot. When I peered through the open window, I saw no one on the other side. Fortunately, there was a bell on the counter and immediately after I rang, someone came from the back room to take my order.

“Can I have a small pie, half pepperoni, half sausage?” The reply, “Give me fifteen.” Game on.

Locals know there are two Papa’s Pizzas in Milford. The original on Naugatuck Avenue (which I visited) opened in 1986, and Papa’s Pizza II, on Bridgeport Ave. opened twenty-two years later in 2008. Papa’s Pizza is overseen by Russ Pietrini, Dylan Bruno, Jamie Cavallo and named after Russ’ grandfather, Peter Lasse (a.k.a. Papa). If the name Lasse sounds familiar, it should. Papa Lasse and his wife Mabel opened The Maples, a restaurant on Naugatuck Avenue, in the 1940s (sold in 1959 and renamed). In addition to the two Papa Pizzas, the third generation oversees Lasse’s restaurant, which has been a landmark since 1964.

While Papa’s focuses on pizza, there are a few other options. The menu is taped to another closed window and offers pasta options (Naugatuck location only), one garden salad and five “cone” grinders, whatever they are. They specialize in New Haven Pizza, with more than a dozen different toppings, or you can choose from one of twenty-five pre-determined combinations. (Disclaimer – The newest addition is A ‘Pizza Di Jeff, and I had absolutely nothing to do with it, although it sounds pretty good.)

As I waited in my car (there are no tables outside other than a waiting bench for 3-4 people), and no nuthin’ on the inside), several regulars pulled into the lot and owner yelled “Hey Johnnie, here’s your order,” followed by a “thank you” and a hand-off, this was definitely a place where people are loyal and return on a regular basis. Almost to the second, my pie was ready in fifteen minutes, nestled in a to-go box and, like the others, handed through the window with a warm “thank you.” With no place to sit, I was left to my own devices to photo and eat…it was not the first time the hood of my car doubled as a dining table.

I opened the box, and my lips started to extend into a smile, this pie looked really good. The balance of ingredients looked perfect, the charring along the edge was just the right level and there were bubbles in the dough-edges; it should have a nice, soft feel. Checking the underside, the kitchen cooked it to perfection, just a few light char-spots. I grabbed a bit of sausage and tasted; it was a 10, still moist, fennel-accented with a little spice (I later discovered it was Lamberti’s Italian sweet sausage from New Haven). Next, a quick taste of the pepperoni and like the sausage, it was delicious, a medium level of spiciness and just a tad of crispiness. It was still too hot to try a full bite, so I waited…and it was almost excruciating.

I finally took a deep breath, and I lifted a slice of the pepperoni side…the crust held, no flop. And then a little bite from the tip to save the roof of my mouth. Wow!!! The flavors were unbelievable. Now a full bite and the cheese stretched, the sauce and the ‘ronis held pat and it was delicious. Everything worked together, the crispy crust, the rich tomatoes, the creaminess of the cheese and the spiciness of the pepperoni. It was close to perfection. My smile grew wider. Could the sausage side compete? The really good news was that it was even better since the sausage was some of the best around. This slice was in Zuppardi’s league as one of the best sausage slices in CT. My smile was in competition with the Cheshire Cat, ear to ear. This is what Connecticut pizza is all about…sheer perfection.

Finding that off-the-beaten-path perfection has become an obsession. These unheralded chefs know how to cook, know how to satisfy loyal and new customers and do so for the sheer pleasure of their love of the food adventure. When I find a place like Papa’s Pizza, enjoy some of the best pizza in CT, read about the three generations of food people, I must tell everyone who would never stop if they drove by Papa’s…YOU MUST STOP!!!

And that is what CTbites is all about.

Papa’s Pizza 258 Naugatuck Ave, Milford (203) 874-0215Papa’s Pizza II 2005 Bridgeport Ave, Milford (203) 283-5433

http://www.papaspizzaonline.com