Tag Archives: jfood

Wayan & Madé – Indonesian Pop-Up in The Hamptons

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When people think about a cuisine, it is rare that they answer “Indonesian.” For me, I do not think I have ever eaten Indonesian food, and after making a reservation at Wayan & Madé in Springs, NY, also known as the northern side of East Hampton, I thought it would be a good idea to do a little research. What I found was a combination of sweet, savory and influenced by international diversity. Not overly helpful, so I went with little knowledge and an open mind.

Wayan & Madé is located adjacent to EHP Resort on Three Mile Harbor Hog Creek Rd. in the Springs section of East Hampton and is the pop-up restaurant of Chef Cédric Vongerichten and Ochi Vongerichten (children of NYC super-chef Jean George Vongerichten). When we arrived for an early reservation, we were seated at the windows overlooking the harbor. The view was very relaxing, and the dining room filled to capacity over the next 90 minutes. A quick perusal of the menu indicated that a knowledgeable server and access to using google would be essential to developing a thoughtful meal.

As first-timers with Indonesian cuisine, we decided to plan a family-style meal and see where it led. Our order included three appetizers, two mains and two sides. As a head’s up, we ordered all the dishes at the beginning and this was a mistake, since the kitchen just starts cooking without regard to pace and separation of course, our two mains arrived while we were still eating the appetizers. We asked them to return them to the kitchen and give us about 15 minutes between finishing the appetizers and bringing the entrees. My suggestion is to order everything but tell the server not to fire the entrees until s/he checks in with you.

My thoughts on the dishes:

Vegetable spring rolls with green chili emulsion and mint. The rolls were two extra-long and narrow tubes filled with an array of slightly spicy vegetables. The dish is served with a green chili emulsion which was superb. The wrappers were thin, and very crispy, while the filling was soft, a great complement. I loved the flavors, and the emulsion was so good we kept it to use with some of the other dishes. Dish was a 9

Tuna tartare with green chili sambal, avocado, and nori. This dish was not the most pleasant from a visual perspective, but the flavors were fresh and bright. I was a little surprised by the lack of spiciness in the presentation, the natural flavors of the tuna were present, it just felt the uptick in spice was a little lacking. I give the dish a 7

Fluke sashimi with calamansi dressing, and makrut lime. The fluke was served with a lovely sauce and spiciness. The fish was fresh, bright, and delicious. The toppings beautifully complemented the sashimi with a bit of spice and crunch. It was a very light option. I give the dish an 8.

Slow cooked butterfish with calamansi miso, and green asparagus. What exactly is butterfish? When it was presented, we all asked ourselves if this was butterfish or Chilean sea bass…it looked, tasted and flaked just like CSB. The next question is what is calamansi? It is described as a cross between lime and mandarin oranges, delivering pungent sour notes. The fish was prepared very well, maybe a touch overcooked, was a little on the small side (maybe 3-4 ounces) and glazed with the tangy miso. While it was a very nice dish, I think the miso was a little too tart for the fish, and with the smallness of the portion, I can only give it a 6.

Charred pork ribs with a soy tamarind glaze, and sesame seeds. Unlike the fish, the ribs initially looked like a very large portion. The flavors were great, finished with a delicious sauce, and fall-off-the-bone tender. The downside was the amount of meat on each bone was a little light. While I liked the flavors, the amount of the meat was a little disappointing and can only give it an 8.

Nasi Goreng with egg, pickled chili, and cilantro. I think the winner of the night was the Nasi Goreng, which is the national dish of Indonesia. And the restaurant prepared a great version. If you are wondering what it is, think fried rice, and this one had a soft egg atop. The flavors, texture and balance were great, loved the oozing egg and complemented the other two entrées. I absolutely give this dish a 10.

Chocolate mousse served with avocado ice cream. Remember that the owner’s father is Jean Georges, a master in French cooking, which explains the absolutely brilliant chocolate mousse. But this is an Indonesian restaurant, so they added a few crispy chocolate pieces atop the mousse and accompanied the mousse with avocado ice cream, yup avocado. The mousse was spectacular, and the ice cream was delicious. This was an easy 10.

We also ordered the King Oyster Mushrooms that were charcoal kissed, with sambal hijou. They were pretty much inedible. The kitchen placed so much salt on the mushrooms, that we all stopped after one bite. The dish was removed from the table and the check. No need to rate a DNR.

Overall, this was our introduction to Indonesian cuisine, and I was very excited when we arrived. A few of the dishes were spectacular while others I thought failed a little. The meal started with three great appetizers and then took a pause, primarily in the size of the portions; both entrées were on the smallish side. As a pop-up restaurant for the summer, Wayan & Madé is a place you should visit to experience the cuisine of Indonesia.

313 Three Mile Harbor Hog Creek Rd.

East Hampton, NY 11937

(631) 439-0785

Gordon Ramsay Burger (Las Vegas) – What a Disaster

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Who am I to take shots at the restaurant of a world renown chef who has earned 17 Michelin stars?

I am almost embarrassed by writing a review of a restaurant that represents the TV personality who has entertained me for years, but when that restaurant totally performs multiple nose-plants and tarnishes the renown chef’s name and reputation, someone needs to throw the BS flag.

I have watched so many different series by Chef Ramsay, and my visit to Ramsay Burger in Las Vegas was more watching the first 10 minutes of Kitchen Nightmare then his offering a Head Chef position to an up-and-coming super-talent. It was a complete and utter disaster, there is no way that Chef Ramsay would like my experience.

From start to finish, there was barely a single touchpoint where Ramsay should be proud.

After I was seated, I was handed a menu with no prices. When I asked the server, she blamed the printer, but they were expecting the new menus the “end of the week,” yet it was a Thursday evening. I later found out that the server was supposed to tell the customer about a QR code to take you to the on-line menu, but mine did not know this. I was eventually told by the manager, clicked to the website and even the website did not have the prices (hard to blame the printer on this).

So much for the customer to menu interface.

I ordered the Backyard Burger, which is served with American cheese, butter lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, and red onion. I ordered mine medium-rare without the onion. I also asked if I could have 50-50 fries and onion rings. After I was told a resounding “No,” I asked for the fries and then asked for a separate order of onion rings. Again, there was a resounding “no” from the server. Time for a manger visit, who apologized for the menus and told me he would make the French fries and onion rings happen.

When the burger arrived, it was overcooked, the fries were a measly portion, and the onion rings were cold and hard. (As an aside they did place the raw red onion on the burger). I asked for a re-fire. The server removed the rings and burger but left the fries. About 10 minutes later they brought a new order of rings, but no burger. The rings were piping hot but not very good, way too much breading. I ate one and decided these were not worth the effort.

The burger finally arrived, and I cut in half, again way overcooked but I was not asking for #3, so I took a deep breath and took a bite. The burger was absolutely tasteless, no seasoning and while the menu says they are cooked over wood to add flavor, mine had none. The tomatoes were oldish. I asked for fresh fries so I could have what I ordered in a single seating. I ate half the burger, a few fries and called it a night.

As I waited for the check, I can almost hear Chef Ramsay yell “shut it down.” Two tries at a simple burger, fries and onions rings, and each was poorly executed.

My review:

  • no prices on the menu, they tell you to go to the website for the prices and none there as well
  • two burgers, neither cooked close to requested doneness,
  • the burgers were completely tasteless patties
  • the tomatoes were aged,
  • they served the raw onion on the burger when it was ordered without the onion
  • the onion rings were first served cold and hard and, when hot, they were not very good.
  • the manager tried hard with a re-fire; the second round was just as bad, he was at the mercy of a completely unfocused kitchen.

I give (out of 10):

  • Burger – 1
  • Fries – 2
  • Onion rings – 1
  • Service – A nice try
  • Manager – at the mercy of a poorly executing kitchen
  • Kitchen – send them back to cooking school

Is Christos Restaurant Worth the Hype? Pizza Review Inside

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I finally made it to Christos Restaurant & Bar in Wallingford, the third pizzeria of Connecticut’s self-proclaimed Three Kings of Pizza. While the three brother-owners may share common DNA, the pizzas at each show a very different view of what pizza should entail.

When I arrived, I was pleased to see that Christos offers a fair amount of parking in its own parking lot. To avoid the usual snaking lines out the door, I timed my visit to coincide with the less crowded lunchtime. The interior is divided into three rooms, the pick-up / waiting area, the dining room and the bar. In total, there are 60-65 table seats for guests plus another ten chairs at the bar. The décor consists of natural woods and colors, and it is a very relaxing environment, whether seated at a table or in one of the booths.

The menu offers more than its legendary pizzas, including shareables, burgers, burritos, sandwiches, rice bowls and pastas, quite an eclectic array of options. But I was laser-focused on the pizza.

I ordered a small pie, half with sausage and the other half with pepperoni.

When the pizza arrived, the first thing I noticed was the high level of char. Not only was the crust overly charred in places, more than half of the cupped pepperoni circles were significantly darkened by the hot, wood-fired oven. The other item I noticed was the abundance of toppings, a lot of sauce and cheese, plus decent portions of pepperoni and sausage.

Pizzerias have several choices for the type of sausage they use, from crumbled to sliced to chunks, and I was pleased that Christo chose larger chunks; in my opinion, chunks give the best flavor and texture. I first removed and tried a piece of the sausage, and it was delicious, with noticeable fennel back notes. I next tasted one of the pepperoni slices and it delivered a nice level of spiciness. Both these meats were excellent, and I highly recommend. I next pulled a little smidgen of crust from the pie, and while several areas were heavily charred, the crust was really tasty.

After the pie cooled a bit (a big thank you to the server), I pulled a sausage slice away from the pie to check the underside, expecting more char to mimic the upper crust. I was surprised that it was dark tan color with minimal char marks. As I looked further towards the interior tip, I saw the unfortunate result of too much sauce and cheese, the crispness disappeared; there was no way it was going to withstand a lift and eat.

As much as I tried, it was impossible to lift (even by flopping the tip over), so it was onto plan B, cutting with my knife and fork. While the crust in the center was a little soggy, it still delivered great flavor, but there was a little too much sauce for my taste. With bite #2, I could now carefully lift the slice. While the sausage was able to handle the level of sauciness, the cheese took a serious back seat to the other two toppings. But my Bite #3 litmus test awaited, and by this time the slice had properly cooled. Result…the flavors melded much better and since we moved towards the outer crust the overall balance of the toppings was in better unison. It was a pretty good sausage slice. If I were to allocate the ingredients, I would say the sauce was sauce (50%), sausage (25%), cheese (15%) and the crust (10%), much too sauce-leaning.

Onto the other half. I was impressed with the cupping of the pepperoni (other than those that were burnt) and there was just a smidgen of oil in each. Even with the lighter weight of the pepperoni, it was impossible to lift the slice, and again I resorted to the fork and knife for bite #1. I liked the flavor balance with the spiciness of the pepperoni. The pepperoni side was better since the thin slices of pepperoni were bolder than the sausage. While the distribution of ingredients was similar to the sausage side, the pepperoni’s spiciness definitely created a more balanced taste; sauce (40%), sausage (35%), cheese (15%) and the crust (10%), better but still a little too sauce focused.

Overall, the basic tenets of the pizza at Christos were amazing, the crust, sauce, toppings were all delicious. While the kitchen tried to balance the crispiness of the crust and the charred edges with the level of toppings, they got a little ahead of themselves with too much sauce in the center of the pie. They also might have placed the pizza on the wrong spot in the oven (where a pizza was recently removed), which did not allow the crust to crisp properly in the center.

With the first visits to Connecticut’s self-proclaimed Three Kings of Pizza in the record book, I would rank them Luna (a 9.3), Christos (an 8.4), and Fuoco (a 7.5). 

Christos Restaurant & Bar

552 North Colony Rd

Wallingford CT 06492

203-294-4626

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Charcoal Chef: A Nostalgic Dining Experience in Woodbury

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One of my favorite shows growing up was The Twilight Zone. Most episodes included Rod Serling’s famous, “Imagine, if you will…” and his describing a “fifth dimension” between reality and imagination. I sometimes think of those days, a simpler time when life moved more slowly, where information was absorbed from the three-dimensional surroundings versus the two-dimensional computer screen, where families viewed eating out as a bonus, not as a Plan B because everyone was too tired to cook and when every meal was not measured by its TikTok and Instagram potential. Sometimes a restaurant is a place to bring family, outside the Internet measurements, outside the stars, likes and looks, and just serve simple fare at reasonable prices.

When I find a restaurant that brings that sense of peace, it deserves a call-out, not for its Michelin quality preparation and plating, but for its giving back to a different subset of America, the people that do not care if there is WIFI in the dining area, look forward to seeing what the blackboard specials for the night might bring to their table, and not looking for the computer-generated bill with three high-percentage tip recommendations.

Such a place is Charcoal Chef in Woodbury.

Imagine if you will…driving on a country road in central Connecticut, several miles north of a small town, which is several miles north of another small town that happens to be near an exit off I-84. You see a big sign (I almost feel that Huckleberry Finn had something to do with it) announcing CHARCOAL BROILED HOT DOGS HAMBURGERS SEA FOOD. Then you see the building, a simple side-of-the-road single-story building reminiscent of the 1950s, but with solar panels adorning the roof. You pull into the parking lot. They know their clientele, every parking spot immediately adjacent to the front doors is reserved for Blue Placard vehicles. There is plenty of parking surrounding the front entrances for others.

The real throwback occurs once you enter. The interior is large, seating almost 100 people on copy-paste chairs decorated in 1950s Mad Men décor, numerous shelves filled with items purchased from other side-of-the-road shops, plus a counter overlooking the kitchen that seats an additional nine guests on round swivel black vinyl NJ dine-style stools.

What also separates Charcoal Chef from other restaurants is its namesake charcoal-fired grill. While the rest of the open kitchen is standard, the chef can utilize a three-foot-by-three-foot brick base grill, which is filled with charcoal and topped with grates. This unusual addition allows the kitchen to give the food a little backyard smokey goodness.

I chose a small table where I could view the surroundings. My waitress (she would probably be upset if I used any other description than what she has heard for the last umpteen years) brought the advertisement-laden paper placemat, a well-used menu and asked for my drink order. Once I requested a hot dog, a BBQ burger (medium-rare) and French fries, she brought the water, fork and steak knife, plus an assortment of condiments, which have been used by a lot of other guests. I first noticed the Red Gold ketchup, never heard of. It was reminiscent of the Heinz squeeze bottle, with one difference, the words “For every bottle purchased, Red Gold donates to Folds of Honor, to educate, and support the families of our fallen heroes.” Love the thought and, BTW, it was just as good as Heinz.

Onto the food.

The BBQ burger was a bacon-cheeseburger (BBQ on the side for me) and was freshly ground meat and formed on site, it still had that freshly compacted texture. The cheese was basic American, with a few rashers of bacon, and two concentric onion rings, all in a decent bun. While I was asked for a requested doneness, I guess they all come out the same, cooked. Add a little salt and ketchup and you feel like you were eating at a Sunday church BBQ, as I said earlier, a simpler place.

The hot dog arrived on a toasted NE-style bun. It jutted out of both sides of the bun, approaching a true foot-long. It had a few good grill marks. I could see it was not all beef, but when I bit into it, it had a good “snap,” and the porky-spiciness was actually pretty good. It was one of the better dogs I have eaten in a while. I added a little mustard and relish, and I really enjoyed this simple dog.

After each bite I looked at the other patrons, nobody, and I mean nobody, was on their phone, none were googling, no children with headsets watching videos, only people chatting, people reading a newspaper (yes, the one in print), people giggling. My server was standing at her station working on a paper Sudoku while resting between taking orders and bringing food.

When I asked for the check, I sorta knew what to expect. It was hand-written, my hot dog, BBQ burger and French fries earned, in total, eight letters, 3 each for the hot dog and burger, with the French fries garnering a two-spot. The total for my meal did not reach $20, barely the same price as some appetizers and salads at other places.

As I left, I took notice of the whiteboard specials, the Bronzino dinner was $28 with some Street Corn Chowder (I just paid double that in FL). But what really caught my eye were the ice cream flavors, they started with a traditional Butter Pecan but swerved immediately to the left with Extra Large Cookies, Hot Honey (go figure), Bourbon Oatmeal, and Tony’s Cakes. Huh? These flavors were like the solar panels on the roof, between reality and imagination.

While Charcoal Chef will not make my go-to rotation for its cuisine, my time there was memorable, the staff was incredibly friendly, the food was pretty OK, but the enjoyable part was the peace and feeling of a different time, when a restaurant was there for a family gathering to enjoy the meal. For that…“thanks for the memories.”

Denmo’s Snack and Dairy (Southbury) – Basic Side of the Road Burgers & Dogs

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Denmo’s Snack and Dairy is located on south Main Street in Southbury and has been serving the area for over forty years. I heard mixed feedback about the food, but I kept reading a few positive anecdotes on their hot dogs, and given its proximity and my build-up of internal curiosity I decided to drive to check out the burgers, dogs and fries. While it was an not extraordinary experience, it was a decent visit. There was nothing wrong with the food, per se, but there was nothing good about it either. It was basic burgers and dogs with a couple of bright spots.

When I arrived, I saw the chalk board menu with lots of additional items from the on-line menu. I first noticed a significant difference. While the website still touts the “foot long” dog, the chalk board eliminated any reference to a quantifiable dimension, but now stated “long.” I ordered with relish, mustard and sauerkraut (this is “the works” less the raw onion). I also ordered a single cheeseburger with fried onions and a side of fries.

The dog – The chalkboard is correct, the foot-long is gone. The dog juts a bit from both ends of the roll, so my guess would be a 10”. The roll is a New England meets Texas toast that has been nicely griddled on the exterior. The mustard, relish and mustard were nicely applied. The dog, itself was split and there was a bit of a char. On first bit I was non-impressed. There was nothing to speak of on the flavor from. No smokiness, no saltiness, no pop, no nothing. It was a mildly bland dog. The mustard was not Gulden’s but some run of the mill variety and I would guess the somewhat tasteless relish and kraut were as well. There was nothing bad, just nothing good.

The burger – I have to commend Denmo’s on the preparation. The meat was loosely formed into the patty and even given it’s 4-ounce pre-cooked weight, they were able to have a tinge of pink in the center. Likewise, the cheese was nicely melted. The taste was, or should I say tasteless, aspect, of the burger was its downfall. Again, nothing bad, just nothing to really like. Now here is my one “I liked” and it was the grilled onions. They were very flavorful, soft and the highlight of the visit.

The fries – if you want to talk about zero love, think these out of the freezer, into the oil, fries. No seasoning, no nothing. My guess is some middle schoolers were assigned to the frier and they were tik-tok’ing. And Denmo’s did not help by offering the cheapest ketchup packets their purveyor could sell them.

Overall, I checked the box, went to Denmo’s, tried their burger, dog and fries and can move on. While others may enjoy the treats, I will probably not place on my return list.

Discover Crust Issues: Creative Pizza Styles in Norwalk

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I have been a fan of John Nealon for years. As one of the original co-founders of Fortina, he brought one of my all-time pizzas to the forefront, the Luigi Bianco, now The LB. Fast forward ten years and several stops in between, John and his wife, Morgan, embarked on creating a newly devised structure to the mega-century old pizza. While Nutmeggers are blessed with tons of options to enjoy perfect styles of pizza, on my visit to Crust Issues on Connecticut Ave in Norwalk, I was introduced to a slightly different version, one that grabs elements from Neelon’s past, as well as non-apizza styles.

If you blink you will miss the parking area for Crust Issues on Connecticut Avenue in Norwalk, CT. On a cloudy afternoon I found myself with a little time and was able to venture to Crust Issues to see and taste for myself John’s vision. The interior is somewhat unique, there is a self-service mini-bar with cocktails, sodas and water and a counter to order. The menu includes a few smaller dishes, from meatballs, garlic knots, sandwiches and salads, a couple of entrees, and sandwiches and then the main event…the pizza. 

On my visit I ordered a half-pepperoni and half sausage, grabbed a bottle of water and sat at a table watching one of two extra-large TVs.

The pizza arrived nestled in a rectangular rimmed sheet pan. The construction was sorta a combination of pan, Detroit, and thin, and it stretched completely to the edges of the pan. The first noticeable visual were the edges, they had significant charring, not from charred crust but charred cheese. I was not sure how this was going to play with the other flavors. Sitting atop the crust was the sauce, cheese and then my toppings. The next item I noticed was the shapes of both the sausage and pepperoni. The were quarter-circles, I have never seen this ever. The last item I noticed was the thickness of the crust. It was about ¼” thick and extremely rigid, more a crunchy toast versus a pizza crust.

The first order of business was the meats. I tasted a piece of the sausage, and it was great, next, a piece of the pepperoni and again, great. As I lifted one of the corner pieces to check the bottom, I saw another surprise; some of the cheese had seeped under the crust and melted along the bottom edge and the cheese-charring was very present along the bottom edge. But the real test is in the eating. I grabbed a slice from the pepperoni side, and it was fantastic. The flavors were in perfect balance, a little spiciness in the sauce, creaminess in the cheese and then a little more kick from the pepperoni. Could the sausage side compare? Yes it could; the sausage slice was equal in every aspect of the flavor, spiciness and balance. The toppings were perfect in every way.

Now my take on the crust, and I agree with the name of the restaurant. I had crust issues. I was not a fan of this attempt to create a new type of crust, it was too hard for my taste and definitely detracted from the greatness on top. Others may really like the extra-crispiness, but not for me as much.

Overall, I loved Crust Issues, the flavors and balance were perfect, just not a fan of the over-crunchiness of the crust. I give the toppings a 10, but the harshness of the crust brings the overall score to a 9.0, still pretty freakin’ great.

60 Connecticut Avenue, Norwalk

203.939.7171, Instagram: @crustissues203

Bagel Bros: Exploring Oxford’s Best Bagel Choices

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Bagels, Bagels, Bagels!!!

This simple rendition of mix, rise, boil, bake has numerous interpretations and toppings and has captured the imagination of breakfast lovers for over 400 years. It has been ages since a bagel shop appeared in Oxford, CT, and, after seeing the “Coming Soon” sign for months, purchasing fresh bagels in Oxford is now a reality with the opening of Bagel Bros & Company second location in the David K mall at 144 Oxford Rd.

Bagel Bros has numerous options to satisfy both the traditionalists and those looking for more funky options, whether plain, sesame, salt, onion, poppy, blueberry, cinnamon raisin, cinnamon sugar, egg, jalapeno cheddar, whole wheat, everything, egg everything, whole wheat everything, garlic, and French toast. There are quite few combinations to choose from, and Bagel Bros. does not skimp on the toppings of either the sesame or poppy seeds, they were loaded.

Now the tricky part, what type of bagel was Bagel Bros going to serve? I will break the two buckets into two categories, crispy versus soft exterior and poofy versus doughy interior. The website states “FRESH, DOUGHY NY-STYLE BAGELS,” so the latter was already decided.

Onto the taste tests…

I first ordered a sesame seed with butter, which carried a $2.75 price tag. My bagel arrived quickly, and the first bite definitely confirmed the doughy interior. The exterior also fell squarely into the soft versus crunchy option. The flavor was pretty good, not overwhelming, a little salty, and it would have benefitted from a little more butter, maybe cream cheese would also be a good choice. On opening day, they did a really good job.

On my second visit, I chose a variety of options to bring home and try. Toasting each helped release more goodliness and crisped the exterior. The saltiness in the plain bagel was still a little too much for my taste, but when I switched to the egg, it seemed a little less salty, as well as more flavorful. The only non-traditional that I tried was the cinnamon-raisin, and it was very good with a little dollop of cream cheese.

After a few days, they still have to iron out some of the kinks, but if my neighbors in the Oxford area are looking for soft, chewy bagels, Bagel Bros has arrived.

BagelBros&Co

(203) 513-202

SHELTON: 350 Howe Ave, Shelton, CT 06484

OXFORD:  144 Oxford Rd, Oxford, CT 06478

info@bagelbrosandco.com

Review: Coal-Fired Apizza at Fuoco in Cheshire

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In my continued search for worthy off-the-beaten-path haunts in “the Valley” I kept seeing a few great reviews of yet another pizza place just southeast of Waterbury, Fuoco in Cheshire. Between the enormous billboard on the interstate touted by a pizza app and other recommendations on my social media feeds, it quickly moved up my gotta-try list. As the summer months began to wane, I decided to head to Fuoco and see if the hype was justified. 

Located three-and-a-half miles south of I84 from exit 26, Fuoco invites patrons into its white-faced, single-story building with a sign emblazoned with “Fuoco Coal Fired Apizza.” The sign beckons the palate with “coal fired” and “apizza.” 

The single dining area consists of a long banquette along the entire right wall, with seating for twenty-five guests. The ordering and cooking areas are behind the walls to the left. Parking and a rear entrance make for an easy visit, whether dining in or for a take-away. In the warmer months, there are four tables on the front patio.

The menu is primarily pizza, with a few wings, salads, sharables and a calzone mixed in. On my visit, I was completely focused on the pizzas, which can be ordered in pre-determined combinations, with or without red sauce, plus you can “design it yourself” with almost two dozen toppings. I ordered a small (12”) red pie with pepperoni on one half and sausage and peppers on the other. She asked me if I wanted green or red roasted peppers, and I chose the latter. 

When the pie was delivered, it showed a nicely charred finish, a few blackened bubbles indicated good heat in the ovens. When I lifted to see the undercarriage, I was also impressed with the amount of char. The one item that made me a little nervous was the level of toppings, this was a much more heavily laden pie than a traditional New Haven style. 

Onto the real test. 

Let’s start with the good news, the half with the pepperoni. There was a medium to high level of cheese and when I pulled the first slice, a few cheese strands needed a little more coaxing to leave the pie. I first tasted the crust. It was good, not as great as some of the others I have eaten over the last few months, but very much above average. The pepperoni rings were slightly cupped, but instead of the traditional oil in the cups, there was some melted mozzarella. I pulled a few pepperonis to taste. The edges were slightly crisped, and there was a medium to medium-high level of spiciness, they were delicious. The amount of sauce and cheese could have been somewhat less, but the bite of the pepperoni side brought a smile to my face. It was a great combination, with the pepperoni carrying the entire slice to the finish line. The balance was pepperoni (40%), sauce (30%), cheese (25%), and crust (5%). This was definitely a great slice of pepperoni pizza.

I was hoping for the same from the sausage half. The sausage chunks (my favorite way to serve sausage pizza) were in various sizes, and the weight caused a bit of a flop at the point, but overall, the crust held pretty well. I first tried a large chunk of the sausage. It had a decent fennel flavor, but could definitely use additional seasoning. My guess was the roasted red peppers were not roasted on-premises (too bad with a coal oven) as they gave that vinegary jar flavor. Now for the first bite. There was a lot of delicious, sweet-flavored tomato sauce and a little too much cheese and they sorta overpowered the sausage and peppers. The balance definitely went to the sauce (40%), cheese (30%), peppers (15%), sausage (10%), crust (5%). Unfortunately, it was not as great as the pepperoni slices.

Overall, it was a tale of two sides. I really liked the pepperoni slices; the pepperoni had great flavor and spiciness, and both could handle the abundance of the sweet sauce and the amount of cheese Fuoco placed on the pie. The sausage and pepper side was not in the same category. I was hoping for more flavor in the sausage and a deeper sweetness from the red peppers. Likewise, with a coal-fired oven, I expected a more flavorful crust. In Connecticut, when you use the words “coal fired apizza,” you are competing at an Olympic-like level, and each ingredient needs to be fantastic. While I would definitely recommend Fuoco, it could be even better with a few adjustments.

461 W Main St, Cheshire, CT 06410

(203) 272-2749

https://fuocoapizza.com

Ted’s Restaurant (Meriden) – So This is a Steamed Burger?

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Iconic… best of… like none other…, you gotta go to. When it comes to the superlatives, Ted’s Restaurant in Meriden has received more than its fair share for its steamed hamburger. Yup, the burgers are steamed. After close to 1,000 Connecticut burger notches on my belt, I almost feel like apologizing for not previously trying this historical Connecticut landmark.

The steamed cheeseburger, also referred to as a “steamer” or “cheeseburg,” is believed to have been invented at a restaurant called “Jack’s Lunch” in Middletown, Connecticut, in the 1930s. Others dispute this claim, stating that the steamed burger’s origin is none other than Ted’s Restaurant in Meriden. Regardless of its origin, Ted’s has received too many awards to mention, and on a warm, summer afternoon, I decided to visit.

Ted Duberek opened this namesake restaurant sixty-five years ago in 1959, catering to the then significant local factory worker population. When Ted passed away in the early 1970s, his son Paul took control, and he made very subtle changes to the cheeseburger as well as modifying the steam box and trays that are still used to this day. In March of 2008, ownership passed to his nephew Bill Foreman.

Ted’s is the only known restaurant in the U.S. that exclusively sells steamed cheeseburgers. The classic preparation begins with fresh, never-frozen, twice-ground meat so the burger will hold its size through the cooking process. Unlike traditionally griddled, fried, smashed, seared, Q’d, Ted’s burgers are steamed in small trays in a stainless-steel steaming cabinet that can simultaneously hold up to 48 patties. Sitting next to the burger-steaming unit is a twin sister that is used to melt the cheddar cheese.  Once the burgers are completely steamed, the fat is drained, and the meat is scooped onto the large and poofy JJ Cassone Vienna roll atop each guest’s requested toppings. If cheese was ordered, the steamed melted cheese is finally placed on top of the patty and served in picnic plastic baskets. 

I wanted to get a full appreciation of Ted’s so I ordered a cheeseburger with bacon, fried onion strings and pickles.

The combo-burger arrived and my initial impression was the size. The construct was a bottom bun, then bacon, the patty, the gooey cheese, the onions and finally nestled into the top of the roll were three pickle slices. The burger was thick, more than an inch tall, but was diameter-challenged, it was not as wide as the roll, at least half an inch of roll jutted on all sides; the patty to bun ratio could be better. To adjust for my first bite, I trimmed the edges of the roll. Ted’s does not skimp on the cheese either, the steamed cheddar was more than generous, and the steaming caused the amazing dripping-ooziness once it was placed atop the burger. 

On to the taste test. The burgers are very dense from the steaming process. It was absolutely necessary to add salt, pepper and ketchup to achieve the full flavor I was looking for, since I like a more seasoned patty. The melted cheddar was very mild. The bacon was overly crisp, which others may prefer; my preference is for a little less crunch and a little more smoky-saltiness. The frazzled onions were delicious, they brought a nice crunch and a great oniony flavor, I would recommend this topping. All in all, I would have preferred more flavor from each of the components.

I also ordered a regular order of fries. The young lady was kind enough to let me know they were very hot, and she was right. I let them cool before a dip in the ketchup. While these are not cut on the premises, the cooking process was perfect, and I really liked the fries. While Ted’s offers several special fries, I would stay with the regular. 

Overall, my expectations were extremely high with all the accolades and awards. Ted’s has been around for over 60 years, the line got longer and longer as I ate my burger, and they earn award after award, so they have a tremendous following. I am glad I finally experienced Ted’s steamed cheeseburger.

Ted’s Restaurant

1046 Broad Street, 

Meriden, CT 06450

203.237.6660

https://www.tedsrestaurant.com

Gioia New Haven: Unforgettable Italian Dining and Culinary Excellence

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I have grown especially fond of Gioia since its opening last year and my most recent visit confirmed the opinion that Chef Avi Szapiro is killing it with his food. In addition to the spectacular cuisine, Gioia offers a relaxed and incredibly vibrant environment, making for one of the best dining experiences in the New Haven area. 

Located on Wooster Street in New Haven’s bustling Italian neighborhood, Gioia offers an incredible alternative to the pizza nirvana of the street. Upon entering the dining area, you are greeted by soaring ceilings, banquettes, tables, a vibrant bar area, a chef’s table overlooking the kitchen and a private table in the back room, which also holds Gioia’s Market. A recently opened second level, rooftop has additional bar-type seating.

A major storm caused us to arrive much earlier than our reservation, and the hostesses were more than helpful in seating us when we arrived. We were given one of the side banquettes that can accommodate four people, so our threesome had more than enough room to appreciate all the cuisine.

While we relaxed and reviewed the menu, we enjoyed the bread service. The density of the bread was wonderful ,and the pieces slowly absorbed the olive oil that accompanied the slices. The bread was great on its own, and even better when used to finish the pomodoro sauce from the meatballs.

A must starter is the MEATBALLS, which includes three golf-ball size balls sitting in a Pomodoro sauce and topped with shaved Parmesan cheese. It was delicious. The meatballs were incredibly flavorful, and I used the extra bread to ensure I enjoyed every last drop of the spectacular pomodoro sauce. The shaved Parmesan was one of the best I have ever tasted.

For a more refreshing appetizer, I highly recommend the GIOIA SALAD, which includes a seasonal mix of greens, lightly tossed with lemon juice and oil and topped with the same Parmesan shards. This was a mound of delicious and sweet greens, perfectly crisped and lightly dressed with oil and lemon. The greens were some of the most delicious I have ever eaten and the parm was over the top perfect.

Another salad option is the FENNEL CITRUS SALAD, which is a full bowl of shaved fennel topped with orange and grapefruit pieces. The fennel was mild, avoiding the sometimes over-anise accented variety and the orange and grapefruit segments added great counterbalancing notes with the toasted fennel seeds contributing a little nuttiness and additional crunch. I really liked this salad as well.

For our entrees, we ordered three different dishes. 

The MAFALDINE CACCIATORE is Gioia’s interpretation of this classic Italian dish. It is served with farro pasta, chicken, mushroom, olives, sage and topped with Parmesan cheese shreds. My mistake was swapping the farro pasta for the straight rigatoni, since the farro nuttiness would have been better to complete the flavor profile. The braised chicken was delicious, and a touch of the braising liquid offered the sauce for the dish. To complete the Sunday-ness of the pasta, the mushrooms were a great addition. I really liked this dish. The next time I would follow the chef’s advice and stay with the recommended farro pasta. 

Others ordered the SALMON OVER GAZPACHO, a perfectly grilled piece of salmon atop a gazpacho. The gazpacho was bright and flavorful, incredibly sweet from the emulsified peppers. Another ordered the WHOLE BRANZINO WITH SALSA VERDE. This is the first time I have seen a whole fish served boneless, it was so easy to eat. The fish was stuffed with lemons, parsley and tarragon, all of which infused their incredible flavors into the fish. This entree is easily enough for two people to share.

Make sure you save room for dessert. I recommend the CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY SEMIFREDDO, which is served with crispy chocolate, and pistachio crumble. The semifreddo was delicious, chocolatey on the interior and surrounded by a thin layer of chocolate jutting from the plate. The accompanying crispy chocolate pieces and pistachio crumbles were both great. We were also given a CANNOLI WITH STRAWBERRIES AND GELATO. All I can say is Wow! The shell was superb, and the creamy filling was even better. Chopping the shell required some work, but it was well worth the effort, maybe the best shell ever. The filling was ultra-creamy and beyond delicious. Without a doubt the best cannoli anywhere.

Service was spot-on, friendly, informative and professional.

Overall, this was one of the best dining experiences I have enjoyed in a long time, and I look forward to returning for even more great meals.