Bar Rosso (Stamford) – An Unfortunate Update

Posted on November 14, 2012 by jfoodeats

I have been wandering in and out of Bar Rosso since it opened, and wrote a few reviews for http://www.ctbites.com.

Unfortunately the last return visit indicated the wheels have fallen off at @Bar Rosso. The Bolognese, which I previously enjoyed, was not to my liking. It was overly sweet and the pasta is no longer a mild delight. The flavors and textures were just off

Then I tried a hamburger and similar to previous attempts my medium-rare order arrived well done. Totally ruined a good piece of meat. So I would also move this to the do not order category.

On a positive note the pizza dough is still excellent, but the previous pizza maker from Italy has moved on and the overall pizza is still good, but not as good as previously.

So unfortunately @BR is now not on my recommended list

The Spotted Horse (Westport): Delicious Burgers

Posted on November 11, 2012 by jfoodeats

Let’s gut a 200+ year old building, decorate the interior with reclaimed woods and discarded farm items, build a U-shaped bar and serve organic tavern cuisine, nestle it amongst high-end retail shops in downtown Westport, CT and name it The Spotted Horse Tavern. Sound like a plan? Sure why not? Enter seasoned Fairfield County restaurateurs Kevin McHugh, Pete Menonna, Tommy Febbraio, and George E. O’Connell. They purchased and updated an early-1800s building to give a farm country atmosphere thanks to the wide rough-cut planks on the floors and walls made of reclaimed barn siding—one adorned with a large double gate that McHugh found during his travels. Overlooking the dining area are large photographs of the restaurant’s namesake spotted horses. On any night the bar area’s five tables and 15 stools bustle with 30-somethings, while the dining area’s 50 seats host a full demographic mix.

The menu offers a wide variety of organic choices from sandwiches and salads to roasted meats and poultry. For burgers they offer the basic Grass Fed Angus Burger, an eight-ounce patty with lettuce and tomato ($11.95), plus the Black Truffle Burger ($13.95), which includes caramelized onions, black truffle butter, a sunny-side up egg, Bel Paese cheese, lettuce, and tomato. You can add toppings for $1 each. I added bacon and American cheese to my Grass Fed Angus Burger.
The Spotted Horse purchases its meat from Saugatuck Craft Butchery, a local butcher known for its high quality organic beef. The half-pound, 19 percent fat patties are composed of coarse ground short rib, chuck, and sirloin. They’re seasoned with a touch of salt and pepper and are hand-pattied immediately before being grilled on the indoor gas-fired grill.

The highlight of the burgers is the incredible meat; it’s one of the most flavorful patties I’ve ever tasted; deep and rich. The well charred patties are slightly crisp on the outside, while the interior offers a slightly hand-pressed texture. When cut in half the meat releases just a bit of juice, which the bun easily absorbs. This may be my new standard for the taste of a good burger patty.
The Spotted Horse’s bacon is excellent; several rashers of thick and crispy hickory-smoked bacon add a good amount of smoky-saltiness to the Grass Fed Angus Burger. (Make sure that it actually arrives with the hamburger, as I was zero for two in my visits. In each case the server ran to the kitchen and brought the bacon on a small plate, leaving me to build-my-own bacon burger when I’d rather receive it already built.) The substantial amount of American cheese (also missing on one occasion) is melted and creamy, although it adds nothing to the overall flavor.

The sunny-side up egg on the Black Truffle Burger is great. The firmness of the fried egg white contrasts well against the meat and the oozing yolk adds an incredible lusciousness. The small amount of Bel Paese cheese is, like the American cheese, well melted and creamy but is just too mild. The “caramelized onions”—as described on the menu—aren’t luscious, soft, and sweet, but are, to my disappointment, crunchy and overly pungent. They’re better described as grilled. Likewise the black truffle butter doesn’t enhance the overall flavor.

The burgers are encased in brioche buns from Billy’s Bakery in Fairfield. The buttery, sweet buns contrast well against the beef’s rich flavor, but again, consistency is an issue. The bun on my bacon cheeseburger was thick and round while the bun on my Black Truffle Burger was crushed, almost as if a plate was placed on top. Likewise, on some occasions it arrived toasted (my preference and the preference of the owners), while on another it arrived untoasted. I’m told that the kitchen is working on consistency in all of these areas.

The accompanying skin-on shoestring fries were perfectly fried to a crispy exterior and a soft and moist interior. They were delivered salted and piping hot with a little cruet of ketchup.

Consistency aside, The Spotted Horse serves a richly flavored hamburger with some great toppings in a relaxed, yet vibrant atmosphere. If you order the appropriate toppings, and check carefully that your hamburger arrives as ordered, this is a great destination for the hamburger lover.

This review was originally published on A Hamburger Today on November 9, 2012 at http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2012/11/the-spotted-horse-tavern-burger-review-westport-ct.html?ref=pop_a_hamburger_today

Bar Sügo – “food that Italians eat every day”

Posted on October 28, 2012 by jfoodeats

The culinary landscape of downtown Norwalk improved significantly with the opening of Bar Sügo, offering Italian cuisine that Chef/Owner Pat Pascarella’s describes as “food that Italians eat every day.”

Bar Sügo’s menu features a wide variety of cicchetti, e primi, and meatballs as well as larger servings of pasta and pizzas to accompany several beers on tap, including Allagash White, Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA, Strubbe Pils or Thornbridge Raven, or one of the numerous bottles of wine. The interior features a large red and white tiled floor, a copper-topped bar, rustic walls covered with large canvassed photos, with one wall dedicated to displaying the restaurant’s diverse selection of wines…the setting allows for a vibrant atmosphere to complement the delicious food. Chef Pat will prepare variations of Italian cuisine using fresh, flavorful ingredients and keep the price of each of the dishes under $20.

Pascarella graduated from the New York French Culinary Institute and subsequently joined the renowned kitchens of Mario Batali’s Esca and Scott Conant’s L’Impero before moving to Connecticut to cook at Bella Luna, Grand and Saltwater Grill, and most recently Pizzeria Cortina. He received local recognition as the winner of Stamford’s first Iron Chef Competition in 2008. Joining him in Bar Sügo’s kitchen is Sous Chef Joseph Italiano, who joins from Danny Meyer’s Eleven Madison Park where he was the Garde Manger. Together the duo is creating a delicious culinary tour of Italy.

The “salumi e formaggi” contain many wonderful house-made specialties including lardo, duck prosciutto and bresaola plus a delightful prosciutto di Parma and La Tur cheese.

The “cicchettis” (small snacks) include a wide range of options and guests can customize the choices into a mini-tasting menu.

The highlight was the maple glazed crispy pork belly, perfectly braised in a grape-accented beer and topped with a maple glaze and served with lentils and pickled and seared onions. The flavors of the dish seamlessly balanced the richness of the meat with the sweet and sour onions with just a touch of earthiness from the lentils.

For a lighter choice, I enjoyed the baby octopus served on a bed of frisée and the scallops al forno. The octopus was incredibly tender and the flavors were brightened by the addition of a hint of lemon. The scallops were perfectly seared and were accompanied by several of Chef Pat’s purées. On my first visit I enjoyed kabocha squash and apple purées while on the second visit, a celery root purée was substituted for the squash. Both were finished with droplets of 25-year old balsamic vinegar that added a slight sour background to the dish.

The “insalate e primi” contain several salads plus a host of delicious small plates

My favorite was the braised short ribs. The beef was braised in red wine, balsamic vinegar and tomato and presented atop faro, kabocha squash purée and garnished with a delightful gremolata. The meat was moist and extremely tender while the texture maintained the meat’s integrity. The squash and faro added a delightful earthiness plus the crunchy texture of the faro complemented the creaminess of the squash purée. The gremolata was accented with a little lemon and horseradish to give sour and spicy components.

Other options were a creamy Burrata with white anchovies, oil cured olives and cherry tomato confit, which was a light and delicious choice and the mozzarella “in carozza” (between bread) that was likewise served with the cherry tomato confit and finished with a broccoli rabe pesto. The contrasting crispy exterior and creamy interior of the mozzarella worked well with the sweet cherry tomatoes and the full-flavored rabe pesto.

The “meatballs” currently include six choices and Chef Pat offers a “meatball tasting.” The options ranged from a traditional “mommy’s meatballs” that were a delicious all-beef variety to my favorite “veal sweetbread meatballs with pearl onion agrodolce” that combined the slight tartness of the sweetbreads offset by the sweet and sour onions. The “pork meatballs” were incredibly moist and served with a whipped ricotta and the “Ox Hollow’s beef meatballs” offered the deepest flavor of the six choices.

The highlights of the menu were the “house-made pastas” that showcased Chef Pat’s talents, with the pasta cooked just short of al dente. I enjoyed the extra level of texture that each of the pastas brought to these dishes.

Chef Pat’s simple spaghetti with tomato and basil was full of bright tomato flavors and when combined with the meatballs from the meatball sampler plate, created a memorable and diverse spaghetti and meatball dinner.

The Bolognese sauce was outstanding and served with either Pappardelle or Cavatelli. Each presented a slightly different textural quality with the traditional pappardelle supplementing the rich sauce while the cavatelli played an equal co-star role. The Bolognese is one of the best in the area and included a touch of mascarpone cheese to create a silky finish.

The cavatelli with house-made sausage, broccoli rabe and almonds was a light and enjoyable alternative. The chicken stock based sauce was light and mild and complemented the other robust ingredients. The taggliatelle with wild mushrooms, farmer’s cheese and black truffles was another excellent choice and combined a large and diverse selection of wild mushrooms in a rich broth and finished with farmer’s cheese.

And pizza lovers can rest easier now that Chef Pat’s fantastic pizzas have returned and the new ovens are creating an even better crust. The pizza selections include many of my favorites from a simple Margherita that showcase the delicious tomato sauce and mozzarella to the ultra-extreme CTbites combination that includes Chef Pat’s delectable braised short ribs, potato, soft and sweet caramelized onions and topped with oozing eggs.

After only a few weeks, Bar Sügo is delivering outstanding Italian cuisine. As Chef Pat said, “this is the food I like to make”…and after sampling many of his dishes I say “this is the food we love to eat.”

Bar Sügo – 102 Wall Street – Norwalk, CT 06854 – 203.956.7134

This review was originally published on CTbites on October 28, 2012 at http://www.ctbites.com/home/2012/10/28/bar-sugo-opens-in-norwalk-w-authentic-italian.html

South End – A “Modern Tavern” in New Canaan

Posted on October 2, 2012 by jfoodeats

In early July CTbites previewed the opening of South End, the newest addition to the New Canaan restaurant scene. Nearly two months of frenzied activity has confirmed the local appreciation that the creative cuisine of Chef Nicholas Martschenko is alive on Pine Street.

Overseeing the front of the house is Keith Siskind, his business partner, and the duo redesigned the interior at South End to create a relaxing atmosphere by intertwining rustic charm with modern comfort. The tables are carefully arranged to allow for pleasant conversation and the overall noise level creates a vibrant buzz without overwhelming intrusion. With upwards of 85 seats, 30 of which are contained around the energetic bar area, South End offers pleasant ambience to enjoy the wonderful cuisine that emerges from the kitchen.

The duo’s ambition to create the “Modern Tavern” is a rousing success. Siskind developed an excellent relationship with two local breweries, New Canaan’s Charter Oak and Stamford’s Half Full (Bright Ale) and both are prominently displayed on the taps overlooking the bar. In addition to these local brews, South End’s taps are serving a Pilsner from Brooklyn Brewery and Palm, a Euro Pale Lager from Belgium. The bar is also stocked with numerous beers, liquors and wines.

While enjoying a beer, wine or cocktail and perusing the menu, you may want to consider nibbling and sharing two of South End’s wonderful appetizers; Nonna’s Meatballs, which are absolutely delicious, or a selection of Artisanal Meats and Cheeses, served on a piece of reclaimed wood.

One of my favorite hot appetizers was the trio of Prosciutto Wrapped Figs stuffed with goat cheese and served with blistered grapes and finished with Saba syrup. They were delectable with an outstanding flavor combination of the sweet figs offset by the saltiness of the prosciutto and the deep sweet-sour composition of the Saba syrup.

The recently introduced Roasted PEI Mussels were served in a tomato and fennel broth that was slightly thickened with rouille and served with slices of grilled garlic bread. This dish delivered a fantastic combination of flavors; the tomatoes adding a sweet quality to the tender mussels while the fennel added a delightful licorice accent to the broth.

I recommend South End’s Heirloom Tomato Salad (end of the season upon us) that includes several varieties of seasonally ripe tomatoes, a touch of a tomato gelee, plus a tiny scoop of basil ice cream sitting atop a slice of mozzarella. The flavors of the tomatoes were sweet and delicious and when combined with the mozzarella and basil ice cream and a little of the pesto created a wonderful balance of flavors and textures. This was a refreshing and delightful dish.

My favorite appetizer / entrée was the Grilled Fresh Bacon, served atop mustard spaetzle, and paired with peach chutney and a sherry sauce. The meat was slow-braised and incredibly moist. The sherry sauce was brushed over the meat to create a wonderful balance of flavors and the slightly crisp edges of the spaetzle were a great offset to its soft texture. The peach chutney added a sweet and delicious complement to the slightly sour sherry sauce.

Chef Martschenko’s talent to create incredible pasta dishes was evident in several of the pasta dishes that I enjoyed. All of the pastas are house-made and shows the passion he developed as the Executive Chef at i Trulli.

My favorite pasta was the Tagliatelle Bolognese, a version that should remain the cornerstone of South End’s ever-changing menu. The pasta was the perfect thickness to handle the rich flavors of the veal, pork, and beef based Bolognese. The sauce was a traditional preparation and finished with rosemary and basil. On each visit this dish was ordered by at least one person at our table and in every instance the entire table tasted and thoroughly enjoyed the rich flavors of the sauce combined with the texture of the pasta.

Another recommended choice is the Veal Cannelloni, house-made crepes stuffed with veal, spinach and ricotta cheese and served with a Sicilian pistachio sauce. A second recommendation is one of several variations of the Orrechiette, whether with a delicious braised rabbit or ground Italian sausage. The sauce that accompanies the Orrechiette changes often and I have enjoyed the braised rabbit as well as the sausage and broccoli rabe.

The entrées include selections of fish, meats and poultry. Three of the entrees that I thoroughly enjoyed included the Roasted Amish Chicken, the Grilled Pork Chop and the Scottish Organic Salmon.

The Roasted Chicken was described by Chef Martschenko as “the epitome of the modern tavern” cuisine. It was served atop spinach plus a wide assortment of mushrooms. The tarragon jus was a perfect complement to the perfectly roasted chicken. The chicken was succulent and the skin was crisped to perfection. The mashed potatoes were served in an iron crock and were whipped with oil and finished with butter and cream; totally decadent and absolutely delicious.

The Pork chop is first slow braised, then finished on the grill and served with diced potatoes (sweet and russet) plus spinach; the cooking method created a perfectly consistent and juicy doneness to the meat and the quick grill added a textural difference. The sherry sauce was outstanding, reduced almost to a consistency of a demi-glace, with intense flavors and perfectly complemented the pork, the crispy potatoes and the bacon.

For a lighter choice, the Salmon is a delightful option. The asparagus vinaigrette brought the entire dish together and was served with a variety of beans and peas, potatoes and a wonderful selection of mushrooms. The salmon was incredibly moist on the interior and the skin was perfectly crisped.

Chef Markschenko is also preparing scrumptious desserts including the South End Sundae and Raspberry/Nectarine Cobbler. The Sundae pairs pistachio and vanilla ice creams, a fudgy chocolate sauce, Luxardo cherries, roasted almonds, and is served with an anise biscotti. The ice cream was delicious, but the highlight was the Luxardo cherries; and when covered with some of the rich fudge, was a perfect ending to the meal. The Cobbler delivered a perfect balance of crunchy and smooth, with the fruits baked to maintain a crisp texture, the sweet streusel topping added addition crunchiness and the smooth toasted almond ice cream created a perfect partner to the cobbler.

After a mere two months, South End is a welcoming restaurant in New Canaan serving delicious and constantly changing choices. Chef Martschenko continues to develop flavors and combinations for his guests in New Canaan enjoy while Siskind has created a relaxing and friendly environment for all to enjoy. The New Canaan restaurant footprint now extends to Pine Street with the addition of South End.

– South End – 36 Pine Street – New Canaan, CT, 06840 –

203-966-5200

Originally publishes on http://www.ctbites.com on September 30, 2012

Cherry Street East v2.0 (New Canaan) – Great Burger at Local Watering Hole

Posted on September 20, 2012 by jfoodeats

On a fateful day in April 2006, Cherry Street East, known affectionately by locals and regulars as CSE, suffered the ultimate catastrophe: It was engulfed in flames and two hours later it was a total loss. Many loyal patrons stared at the ashes of their local pub, their beloved hangout, and the place that served their favorite hamburgers since 1977.

But Cherry Street East was more than just a pub; it was part of the fiber of New Canaan, and fear struck the community. Would CSE become just a distant memory? The owners, John and Mary Bergin formed an alliance with many customers and residents, and together they reconstructed an exact replica and re-opened in 2008.

The first floor is dominated by an L-shaped bar with nine stools and three TVs behind the bar broadcasting numerous sport events, plus CNN or MSNBC. The always-occupied bar serves six beers on tap—Bass, Bud Light, Guinness, Sierra Pale Ale, Smithwick’s Ale, and Stella—with additional choices available in bottles. Surrounding the bar are eight two-person tables plus eight booths to serve an additional 50 customers; if that’s not enough, there’s another dining room on the second floor. The atmosphere is extremely relaxed, engaging, and friendly. The staff has been there for years and treats everyone like they’re a member of the family.

With the structure now rebuilt to its former glory, the big question was, would the legendary burgers return? After several years of enjoying their burgers, my answer is an overwhelming “YES!”

Their eight-ounce burgers are made of hand-pattied 80/20 certified Angus chuck ground daily on the premises. Each of the more than 1,000 weekly burgers is carefully cooked to order on an indoor gas grill. I always order my burgers medium rare and in each instance my burger was received as ordered, plus the server followed up to check if it was cooked properly.

The coarse ground patties have a firm but tender texture and deep beefy flavor. They’re seasoned with a slight amount of salt and pepper and obtain just a touch of smokiness from the grill. The patty was juicy, but not to the point of soaking the bun.

CSE offers 14 predetermined combinations—I recommended the “Vermonster” ($10.50) topped with cheddar and bacon on an English muffin—but the customer can customize their own combination. A bacon cheeseburger ($10.50) at CSE includes two slices of creamy, melted American cheese (Swiss, cheddar, Jack and smoked mozzarella are other options) and three strips of mildly salty bacon, complemented by half-sour pickle chips. By default it’s all encased in a soft Kaiser roll, which tastes better if you ask for it to be grilled. For a more flavorful choice, substitute the roll with an English muffin, whose flavor and texture better complements the beef. I found the roll a little too bland to hold up to the richness of the meat, and I appreciate the crunchiness that the toasted English muffin adds to the burger.

Other toppings include tomato, lettuce, grilled peppers or onions, mushrooms, chili, guacamole, jalapeño peppers, and salsa. Mix and match to your heart’s content, or if you can’t decide, go with one of the pre-constructed burger options. If you prefer an alternative to the beef, CSE also offers a turkey and a vegetarian patty, although not having tried them, I can’t vouch for either.

And let’s not forget the burgers’ remarkable co-star: the housemade, hand-cut onion rings, well worth the $2 surcharge. The thickly sliced onion rings feature a crisp breading and onions that are moist and not too sweet. They would taste even better if they were salted immediately after they were removed from the oil, but customers can salt the rings at the table. CSE also serves russet and sweet potato fries; I prefer the sweet potato over the mild russets.

Cherry Street East is a burger destination and after one bite you understand why; the meat has a full, rich flavor, and reminiscent of all the burgers you love when you grill at home. If you are in the mood for a great hand formed burger with a side of delicious housemade onion rings or some fries, then Cherry Street East will satisfy those cravings.

_____________________________________

This was posted on seriouseats.com today as my first contribution to A Hamburger Today:

http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2012/09/cherry-street-east-cse-burger-review-new-canaan-ct.html?ref=title

Olio Restaurant – Hidden Gem in Stamford

Posted on September 10, 2012 by jfoodeats

Olio – [oh-lee-oh] (noun) – a dish of many different ingredients

Olio Restaurant, off the beaten path in the Springdale section of Stamford, represents the epitome of a “Hidden Gem.” Located in the space that formerly housed Bella Luna, Chef/Owner Steve Costanzo and his business partner Moira Hyland bring over 36 years of experience to this underserved neighborhood. After two months, the residents are viewing Olio as their local culinary answer to downtown Stamford;

Costanzo graduated from the New York Restaurant School and worked in many area restaurants including Baang, Long Ridge Tavern, and Quattro Pazzi (Executive Chef). Hyland is a graduate of the Chef’s Training Program at The Natural Gourmet Institute for Health and Culinary Arts. The duo brings their passion and energy to create an eclectic and inviting menu and environment to their dream restaurant. When I asked them what attracted them to this location, Hyland told me “When we first saw the location… we fell in love with the layout and the fact that the open kitchen made the space so inviting and intimate.”The fifty seat interior was completely redecorated and the result is an inviting space that is divided into two dining areas with marble topped tables separated by a long marble bar overlooking the kitchen. Exposed beams under the skylight add charm to the minimalist style of the space. The menu offers a diverse selection of pastas, meats, fish, and poultry with a strong Columbian influence from Costanzo’s wife, Mayte.

Costanzo’s talent was immediately apparent when I visited Olio one afternoon for lunch. The roasted and shredded pork Torta (Mexican variety) with avocado, Chipotle mayonnaise, roasted tomato and arugula, served on a Ciabatta roll was impressive. The slow roasted pork was delicious, moist, and flavorful and the peppery arugula and the sweet, roasted tomato perfectly complemented the pork. The mayonnaise brought just a touch of spiciness. This was my first taste of Costanzo’s culinary talent and the reason that I returned to Olio for the other dishes.

My favorite appetizer was the BBQ Spareribs. The ribs were first braised for almost two hours and when they emerged from the moist braising process, they were finished with the miso soy BBQ sauce that was comprised of raisins, star anise, and plum wine. The “tower” included five ribs that were fall off the bone tender, full of flavor and smothered in Costanzo’s sweet and succulent BBQ sauce (extra napkins required). The dish was garnished with sesame seeds and charred green onions.

Another delicious option was the Wild Mushroom Crostini. Costanzo’ recipe began with a duxelle of cremini and shitake mushrooms to which he added diced caramelized cippolini onions and roasted garlic. When assembled he melted a small amount of Taleggio cheese on top. Presented as a trio with the arugula and a touch of truffle oil, this dish presented great flavors and was a delightful way to begin the meal.

The Seared Sea Scallops served atop a smoked cauliflower fondue and complemented with sweet and sour golden raisins was another excellent choice. The two large scallops were perfectly seared and Costanzo added Sherry vinegar to offset the sweetness of the raisins. If, like me, you prefer a little more saltiness to your dish, be prepared to add just a little salt to the cauliflower fondant to bring out more of the cauliflower’s natural goodness.

Olio’s entrées feature house made pastas, fish, and several items that Costanzo slow roasts and braises.

The House-Made Ricotta Gnocchi, served with lobster and finished in a brandy cream sauce was my favorite entrée. The gnocchi were delicious, with a light, soft texture; the lobster was perfectly cooked and Costanzo added a few sweet grape tomatoes to bring the various flavors together. This gnocchi dish created a great combination of flavors with the creaminess of the sauce and the delicate texture and flavor of the lobster meat and grape tomatoes.

Another excellent choice was the Beef Short Ribs with truffle mashed potatoes that were served with an Ancho chili and tomato confit. The sauce exploded with flavors and the ribs were braised until they were fork tender while maintaining their integrity. The sauce’s flavor was enhanced by Costanzo’s braising stock which included plum tomatoes, veal stock, red wine, roasted red and Poblano pepper plus a touch of cinnamon. Overall this dish delivered outstanding flavors throughout.

Please save room for Costanzo and Hyland’ special dessert, the Cinnamon Sugar Dusted Donuts, served with a Nutella dipping sauce. The donuts were some of the moistest versions I have tasted and when I asked the chef the secret to this incredible texture, he reluctantly told me, “ricotta.” No longer a secret ingredient and no longer a secret dish, I expect that the donuts will become a staple at Olio with every-changing sauce accompaniments being offered in addition to the Nutella.

Other desserts were available to satisfy the sweet tooth. The bread pudding with a bourbon crème Anglaise sauce was a very good version, but I would have preferred a little more cinnamon and sauce and the warm almond fudge torte with Grand Marnier served with house-made vanilla bean ice cream and raspberries, was more a brownie in texture, but very tasty.

After a few months, Costanzo and Hyland are very pleased with the response from the guests and the neighborhood and they are excited about expanding the menu and developing a deeper relationship with all who enjoy their cuisine and hospitality. “We love the neighborhood and all the support we have received from the community.”

– Olio Restaurant, 934 Hope St., Stamford, CT, (203) 817-0303 –

http://www.oliostamford.com/

Scena – Fine Italian Dining in Darien

Posted on August 15, 2012 by jfoodeats

Scena Wine Bar & Restaurant in Darien is serving delicious, modern interpretations of Italian cuisine under the direction of Executive Chef Eben Leonard. It is one of three restaurants owned by brothers Vicente and Kleber Siguenza (a fourth is schedule to open in Greenwich later this year) including Cava Wine Bar in New Canaan and 55 Degrees Wine Bar and Restaurant in Fairfield.

Chef Leonard traces his culinary passion to his early childhood in Chatham, New York when he prepared monthly dinner menus for his mother. As a teenager, Chef Leonard met his first mentor, Chef Urs Bieri, at the Elm Court Inn in Massachusetts, when Bieri hired him to work as a “chef” at the age of fifteen, teaching him many aspects of the professional kitchen. His aspiration was further enhanced as a line chef, “I loved the adrenalin, chaos, and speed. I loved creating the plates, making them perfect.” After attending the New England Culinary Institute, Chef Leonard worked with Todd English at Bonfire in Boston and Olives in New York. In describing choosing his perfect career, he told me, “I was lucky to find something that I loved and was good at so young. There is a good chance I would be working at a DMV or living as a ski bum out west if I hadn’t gotten that first dishwasher job.”

Chef Leonard joined Scena as its opening chef in 2009 and continues to oversee the menu of delectable antipasti, salads, pizzas, pastas and entrees. The wine list is extensive, comprised primarily of California and Italian choices, with over 200 labels and prices starting at $38. The decor is relaxing, the atmosphere is high energy, and guests can enjoy seasonal al fresco dining. During my visits I enjoyed many of Chef Leonard’s creations.

My favorite of the antipasti choices was the steak tartare accented with shallots and a touch of truffle oil. A quail egg sat atop the tartare, which itself sat in a pool of truffle paste, and served with parmesan crostini and shaved parmesan cheese. The tartare was outstanding with the rich flavors of the beef the focal point with just a hint of the shallot. When combined with the raw quail egg and black truffle paste the three created a luscious textual dish. The meat was ground to a consistency that allowed for a great textural balance.

Another delicious antipasti was the salmon tartare that was served at lunch and included chopped salmon sitting atop a small portion of guacamole. This tartare included cucumber and red pepper and these additions allowed the fresh flavor of the salmon to maintain the focus of the dish while adding a nice texture variation.

For a lighter and more refreshing summer choice I enjoyed the watermelon salad. The dish contained cubes and slices of red and yellow watermelons plus arugula, pistachios, a touch of saba vinaigrette and topped with grated goat cheese. This was an extremely refreshing dish with the two melons delivering a slight variance of flavor, the pistachios added a little saltiness, the arugula a peppery background and the saba vinegar was a great complement to the sweetness of the melons. This was an incredibly delightful way to start the meal on a hot summer night

I also enjoyed two very different pasta preparations. My favorite of the two was the summer corn ravioli with mushrooms, fava beans, English peas, parmesan shavings and chives. The filling consisted of summer corn, shallots, garlic and charred corn with the addition of cream and a stock created from the corn centers. The fresh mushrooms, fava beans and peas complemented the pasta and added a light sweetness and crunchiness to this delicious dish. The second pasta was a taggliatelle with a Bolognese sauce. The house made taggliatelle was perfectly prepared and the Bolognese had a surprise ingredient, cinnamon. This addition may not be for everyone, but I found that the addition of this ingredient added an enjoyable flavor differential from the other Bolognese sauces in the area.

For entrees, I thoroughly enjoyed the seared scallops with poached lobster, potato gnocchi, heirloom tomatoes, and finished with thin slices of cucumbers and radishes. The U10 scallops were delicious and when I asked the source I was told that one of the owners travels to Hunts Point Market and personally hand selects all of the fish for Scena. They were perfectly seared and the thin slices of the cucumbers and the radishes added a great crunchiness while the heirloom tomatoes added a touch of sweetness. While the lobster added a level of elegance, the scallops worked so perfectly with the other ingredients that I think the dish could easily be served without the lobster.

The other outstanding entrée was the hangar steak with spigarello greens (from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm in Roscoe, N.Y), potato hash, soft egg, balsamic and a red wine sauce. Hangar steaks are one of my favorite cuts of beef and Chef Leonard’s version was delicious, an incredibly creative dinner version of steak and eggs. The large portion of hangar steak was perfectly cooked to medium rare and its deep and rich flavor was perfectly complemented by the spigarello greens, which have a broccoli-type flavor. The potato hash included extra crispy chorizo and corn with a soft egg on top. The steak was marinated in red wine, smoked paprika oil and soy and quickly grilled. I loved every aspect of this dish and enjoyed Chef Leonard’s modified breakfast classic as a delicious dinner entrée.

Overall, Scena Wine Bar & Restaurant is an excellent choice in Darien and I look forward to more visits to enjoy more of Chef Leonard’s delicious creations.

Scena Wine Bar & Restaurant, 1077 Post Rd., Darien, CT 203-662-3226

http://www.scenawinebar.com

Originally posted by Jeff “Jfood” Schlesinger on www.ctbites.com on August 12, 2012

Napa & Co. – Geat Food in Stamford

Posted on August 1, 2012 by jfoodeats

Napa and Company in Stamford has another extraordinary chef, Chef Leonardo Marino, overseeing its award-winning kitchen. Chef Leo is slowly modifying the menu to showcase his commitment of using exceptional ingredients to highlight their natural flavors. Three weeks after assuming Napa’s Executive Chef position, CTbites sat with Chef Leo for this “Behind the Scenes,” review, discussed his passion for food and sampled several of his recently premiered dishes.

Chef Leo’s devotion to cooking started at an early age as he assisted his mother and aunt in the kitchen; they inspired him to pursue a culinary education. After attending the Culinary Institute of America, his philosophy of accentuating the natural flavors was further influenced in the kitchens of some of America’s greatest chefs. While working as the Lead Sous Chef for Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin, Ripert asked him to relocate to Washington DC to take the reins of Chef de Cuisine at Westend Bistro by Eric Ripert. Chef Leo returned to New York in 2009 and joined David Bouley at both Bouley and as the Chef of Bouley Upstairs. In 2010 he joined Jean George Vongerichten, first as the Executive Sous Chef at his flagship restaurant, Jean George, and subsequently as the Executive Sous Chef at The Mark Restaurant by Jean George. After working with all of these legendary chefs, Chef Leo commented, “My mother and my aunt are two of the best chefs,” but he quickly added, “…in addition to Eric and Jean George.”

The first dish was a delightful tomato gazpacho. Chef Leo’s version began with a mound of baby heirloom tomatoes, Marcona almonds, basil and sliced strawberries, all topped with a mini-grilled cheese. The soup, which was comprised of traditional cucumbers, red peppers with just a touch of diced Serrano chili to give the dish a little spiciness, was then slowly poured into the dish. The bright flavors of the tomatoes were perfectly accented by the cucumbers, red peppers and the Serrano chili; and the mini-grilled cheese was both a delicious and fun addition. I really enjoyed this dish as a light start to the meal for both the crisp combinations of flavors as well as its varying textures.

The second dish was a remarkable salad and my favorite of those that I tasted; heirloom tomatoes, burrata, grilled country bread, white balsamic gelee and green and purple basil. The tomato season started early this year and Chef Leo is taking full advantage of the delectable and diverse varieties that are currently available. No less than five different varieties of heirloom tomatoes were served. In addition, the imported burrata was one of the most delicious and creamy burratas that I have tasted. The white balsamic gelee brought a delightful and interesting flavor to the dish and it was refreshingly new to my palate. Lastly, the grilled bread brought a wonderful crunchy texture. This dish would work perfectly as a light lunch or a delicious start to a dinner.

The next dish was a fried, poached duck egg with crispy romaine lettuce, shaved broad beans, and surrounded by a drizzle of house-made green goddess dressing. Yes, green goddess dressing. Chef Leo explained his fond memories of the dressing and he thought it would perfectly balance the flavors of the romaine and beans. When the dish was presented, Chef Leo cut into the egg and the yolk gently oozed over the lettuce and created a luscious creaminess. He explained that he first poached the egg, then coated the poached egg with panko, and fried the coated egg to create a crispy exterior and a creamy interior. He also mentioned that he added a surprise ingredient to the egg, a touch of harissa to give just a hint of spiciness to the dish.

The third salad that I enjoyed was the red and white endive salad with Port Reyes blue cheese, balsamic vinaigrette and chives. This simple salad delivered fantastic flavors. The Port Reyes, with its medium pungency cheese complemented the slight bitterness of the endive, and when combined with the deep flavors of the balsamic vinaigrette created a delightful and perfectly balanced salad.

One of Chef Leo’s newly introduced entrées is a saba glazed duck breast with New Zealand spinach, Urban Oaks plums, baby turnips, candy stripe beets, strawberries and chanterelles. He first seared the meat, and then slowly braised the duck before searing for a second time to crisp the skin. The duck meat in Chef Leo’s version was cooked to medium, which he believes produces a more tender product. After tasting this dish I fully agree; the duck meat was tender and full of flavor. The accompaniments to the duck were delicious. The candy stripe beets, one of my favorite varieties, worked extraordinarily well with the sweetness of the plums and strawberries, while the baby turnips and the chanterelles added a wonderful, deep earthy flavor.

Chef Leo saved my favorite dish of the day for last; a pappardelle with wild mushrooms, Parmesan cheese and topped with a light mushroom foam. The pasta was perfectly cooked and then tossed with a sauce comprised of mushroom stock, crème fraiche and a touch of Parmesan Reggiano. The dish included a variety of wild mushrooms including chanterelles and shitakes (morels may be included in the near future). The dish was finished with a bit of foamed mushroom sauce. The earthiness of the mushrooms was delicious. The flavors of each of the numerous mushroom varieties brought a wonderful earthiness to this dish and the foam accentuated the deep mushroom flavors. I would highly recommend this dish to every mushroom enthusiast.

Chef Leo Marino is slowly placing his philosophy of fresh flavors onto the Napa menu. As he stated, “The soul of my mother is in all of my food.” After sampling several of his creations, I am extremely excited about the direction that Chef Leo will take the exquisite food at one of my favorite restaurants in Fairfield County.

Napa and Company – 75 Broad Street – Stamford, CT 06907 – 203-353-3319

www.napaandcompany.com

Originally reviewed by Jeff “jfood” Schlesinger on www.ctbites.com on July 29, 2012

People’s Choice (Norwalk) – You Gotta Try This Place

Posted on July 21, 2012 by jfoodeats

My buddies over at http://www.ctbites.com told me about this place as a must-try.

Do not let the decor fool you, this place serves some outrageously good jerk chicken. And the family (looks like three generations) that serve from behind the counter put all their love in the food and all their smiles in the order. I ordered a medium jerk chicken with rice and bean and cabbage. Then I was asked if I wanted gravy…absolutely, and then some plaintains on top.

The chicken was fall off the bone tender, plenty of flavor, super moist and not too spicy, the rice and beans with the gravy were fantastic and the plaintain was delicious and sweet.

Highly recommend and next time I have to try the curry goat.

Darien Social (Darien) – Two Strikes

Posted on June 24, 2012 by jfoodeats

I really wanted to like this place from recommendations and when I walked in I had high hopes. My first visit was very weird and like a roller coaster. I sat at the bar near the server station and ordered a bacon cheeseburger with fries and shoestring onions. It arrived very quickly. My first taste was the onions and they were excellent, some of the best I have ever eaten so I was pretty excited. The fries were not in the same league, basic fries, very pedestrian. Now I moved to the burger. I cut it in half, It had a good flavor but there was almost a bitter, vinegary taste to it, the bun was a little stale and I noticed they forgot the bacon, so I told the bartender. Now the unfortunate situation I faced. I was sitting next to a complete oaf. He harassed all the female servers (I have two daughters in their 20’s and it totally pissed me off) at the service counter and the bartender did nothing (other then pal with the guy) and the male servers did nothing, either. I was embarassed for all of them. The runner returned with a plate with my bacon slices. (My preference would have been for them to take the burger back to the kitchen and finish their job), I never had a chance to combine and try because the oaf leaned over and in earshot of the bartender made an incredibly rude comment to the lady seated on the other side of me. The bartender again played ostrich and put his head in the ground. I got up, packed my jacket, (oaf leaned over and apologized to me) asked for the manager, and told him that if his staff allowed that sort of behavior to other members of his staff and to guests, then I was leaving. The manager was incredibly embarassed and told me he would wander over and if he heard anything he would throw him out. Hope he did. In any event I lost my appetite.

Trip number two was much more pleasant, professional and gave me another chance to try the BCB. This time it arrived fully garnished. And it was encased in a different bun than the first time, this bun was much better. Again the beef was full of flavor, but bitter, with that vinegary aftertaste . Not sure what it was but it really took away from the rich flavor of the beef. And the fries were again not to my liking, this time some of them were undercooked.

Would I return…probably, but at this point it is not on the power rotation.

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying

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