I ordered a pizza, they delivered an apizza, and they called it ah-beetz.
Pizza lovers in Connecticut know exactly what the word apizza means, and they also know that one of the best (if not the best) versions in the entire state is found at Roseland Apizza in Derby. On a recent Saturday night, we joined some friends and made the pilgrimage to the neighborhood that has had the privilege of protecting this pizza icon. We sampled three distinct combinations, each with three distinct personalities and three different tastes, all sharing one undeniable theme: perfection.
Before diving into our visit, it’s worth appreciating Roseland’s roots. The story begins in 1935, when Giovanni “John” Scatolini, an Italian immigrant, opened a bakery and grocery store in neighboring Ansonia. He originally baked bread in a coal-fired oven in his backyard; a tradition he carried with him when he moved the business to Derby in 1938. World War II brought a family tragedy to the Scatolini family, when John’s son, Reno, was killed in the Battle of the Bulge in 1944.
The story of the pizzeria may have ended at this point if not for the intervention of John’s daughter, Lina Lucarelli. While only a teenager at the time, Lina used her unique entrepreneurial talents over the next seventy-plus years, lovingly guiding Roseland as its irreplaceable heart and soul. Born in Montebello, Italy, Lina emigrated to the U.S. at the age of seven to escape Mussolini’s Italy, and she eventually worked beside her husband, Nazzareno “Bocci” Lucarelli, at Roseland until his passing in 1980. When Lina passed in 2016, Roseland shared this touching and simple tribute, “She had the insight to turn a simple bakery into a beloved hometown pizza establishment at just the age of 15. Through five generations, our family has continued to push out pies and will continue to do so for generations to come.” To this day, Roseland is still family-run, a Derby institution and a proud pillar of Connecticut’s apizza heritage for nearly a century. An incredible story of dedication, perseverance and a matriarch like none other.
When we arrived around 4:45 p.m., the parking lot was already full, and even street parking was getting tight. Inside the unassuming front entrance, a whiteboard handled the seating process. Each group added their name and party size to the bottom of the list, and one by one, names were crossed off as smiling groups are escorted to their table. We added our name to the bottom of the list and settled in for the customary wait, in our case, about fifty minutes.
Roseland’s interior is classic and cozy, two rooms, a main dining area with booths and tables, plus a smaller side room to handle the larger groups. A giant chalkboard spans the back wall, listing daily specials, beer options, and, of course, Foxon Park sodas. Every other square inch of the walls is dedicated to the loving memories of the Lucarelli family, its extended family, and the friends who have enjoyed thousands of pizzas that have emerged from the 90+ year-old coal-fired ovens.
Once we slid into our booth, we were instantly transported back to a simpler time, when families spent Saturday evenings enjoying a relaxed meal at their local dining spots. We watched as friends greeted each other with hugs, and everyone seemed to know everyone else’s family news, it was the place where good conversation and great food took center stage. Our server brought over the essentials, the plastic-encased menus, napkins, silverware, and, in the tradition of Roseland, four mismatched melamine dinner plates, all part of the charm. The menu offerings were simple and classic Italian, one side of the menu included appetizers, grinders, salads, and pasta and parm dinners, while the other side was entirely dedicated to pizza. Interestingly, about three-quarters of the pizza section featured white pies (no sauce), loaded with seafood, chicken, or vegetables. The smaller top section listed the classic red pie, simple and straightforward.
We ordered two pies, a classic apizza with light garlic, and a half-and-half pie, cheese on one half, with sausage and pepperoni on the other. Naturally, we paired them with bottles of Foxon Park sodas.
When the server arrived carrying the metal pizza stands, the energy in our booth shifted, excitement building like kids on Christmas morning. First came the apizza, followed closely by the more heavily topped pie. The traditional apizza glistened, its sauce shimmering under the light, with just a dusting of cheese, luscious in its simplicity. The combo pie was a bolder display, one half bubbling with melted cheese, the other loaded with hearty toppings. At Roseland, generosity is standard.
Half of the apizza was immediately relocated to the individual plates, and from my first bite, my long-held belief was reaffirmed, Roseland belongs in the conversation for best in the state. Describing the taste is difficult, every bite burst with freshness, the sweet, rich tomato sauce beautifully balanced by the crisp yet tender crust. Then came that subtle hit of grated cheese that tied it all together. Pure heaven.
How would the combo-pie compare, same base, entirely different expectations? First, the cheese slice. The melted cheese added a creamy richness that transformed the flavor profile without overwhelming it. Again, perfection. Could the meat-laden slice compare? Chunks of sausage covered nearly every inch, with the thin pepperoni slices peeking out around the edges. The sausage was classic Italian, a medium spice, a smidgen of fennel and wonderfully hearty, while the pepperoni sneakily added just a touch of additional spiciness. The first bite also confirmed that Roseland’s pizzas were beyond fantastic, they were flawless compositions.
Overall, two pies, three flavors, one conclusion, Roseland Apizza is not only great pizza, it is also a significant part of Connecticut’s rich pizza history. It’s not flashy nor trendy, just pure, time-honored craftsmanship and a genuine sense of community. Every pie has been perfected over generations, reminding everyone why Connecticut’s pizza heritage is second to none.
One visit and you’ll also understand why Roseland’s fans keep coming back decade after decade.
350 Hawthorne Ave.
Derby, CT 06418
(203) 735-0494
Jfood Eats 