The Trident (Sausalito)

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After a wonderful trip to Muir Woods and a hair-raising drive up/down a windy road we decided to have lunch in a relaxing environment of Sausalito and chose The Trident. It offers both inside seating plus tables on a large deck with a million-dollar panoramic view of San Francisco. It was a no-brainer grabbing a table outside.

The menu offers salads, sandwiches, burgers and plated food. One of the items, the “Golden Gate Double Crab” sandwich caught my eye. It was described as Dungeness Crab Meat, Soft Shell Crab, Arugula, Pepperoncini, House Aioli, French Roll. This had the makings of a great sandwich. I ordered it plus a side of fries. With a hefty $28 price tag, it was a major splurge.

The sandwich did not skimp on the ingredients. The roll was first slathered with a little aioli, topped with arugula and roasted pepperoncini. A large mound of Dungeness crab was next added, which was topped with a whole fried soft shell crab. The highlight of the sandwich was the sweet Dungeness, which was delicious the crispy soft shell added a great textural contrast and the arugula added the needed peppery notes. If I had one nit to the combination it was the pepperoncini, it was just a touch too spicy and detracted from the other wonderful sweet nd bright flavors.

 

The fries were pretty basic, perfectly prepared with a crispy exterior and moist interior. Service was very laid back. They prepared my wife’s salad incorrectly which was removed for a re-do and the server was told, she was “Oh OK,” with not an apology, just a little SF’ish for us east coasters. Salad #2 was delicious.

 

Overall, I would very much recommend The Trident for its view, the food and a very laid back atmosphere.

Old Greenwich Social Club

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Old Greenwich Social Club opened last November, replacing an area icon, Mackenzie’s Bar and Grill, on Sound Beach Avenue overlooking the Old Greenwich train station. The location is convenient for a drink with colleagues at the end of the commute, a relaxing meal with the family, dinner with friends or just relaxing at the bar.

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The brainchild of local Jed Simon, this newly reopened watering hole presents an atmosphere reminiscent of “Cheers.” The wooden double-door entrance leads directly into the large bar area dominated by a U-Shaped bar. On one side, numerous taps offer a wide selection of beers including Bronx “Uptown Rye,” Jack’s Abby Express, Alagash “White,” Thirsty Dog, Omnipollo “Shilkmake” and Two Roads “Session IPA.” To the right of the bar is the main dining area with booths, a long wood-topped table plus others covered with retro-vinyl. Adorning the walls are photos from years past and sports memorabilia. During the summer months, guests can enjoy their meals on the patio to the left of the bar. This is definitely a local-oriented restaurant. On the afternoon I visited, Simon was hosting a happy hour for local teachers who missed St. Patrick’s Day and hired a trio to perform.

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In January Chopped champion and celebrity Chef Alex Garcia joined OGSC. Chef Garcia was born in Cuba and has been at the forefront of the popularization of Cuban food with his association with numerous New York restaurants including Patria, Erizo Latino, Calle Ocho, the Copacabana Supper Club, Babalu Restaurant and Lounge, and A.G. Kitchens. Chef Garcia is slowly adding his nuances to a predominantly classic American-based menu, with a smattering of international dishes. In designing the menu, Simon was sensitive in maintaining several of the favorites from Mackenzie’s.

I was invited to sample several dishes as well as Chef Garcia’s additions.

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From the “For The Table” section the chef prepared the “Smoked Trout Dip” and the “Bacon Wrapped Dates.” The trout was an individual glass jar was filled with the fish paté, served with large, thin slices of watermelon radish, flatbread crackers, fried tortillas, with three gherkins protruded from the top of the jar. The dip was creamy, with a mild smokiness, and when combined with the gherkin or the radish atop one of the crackers, created a delicious balance. This is more a single serving than a table share.

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The dates included six almond stuffed dates were wrapped in bacon and served with a swath of Blue cheese sauce. The combination of the ingredients was delightful with a wonderful sweetness from the dates and the creamy cheese sauce. The thick slices of bacon were less salty than expected and the almond offered good textural contrast. While some of the wrapped dates were well prepared, the bacon on others was burnt.

The next dish was a sampler of three separate offerings from the “Small Plates” and “Between Bread” sections.

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My favorite of the three was the “Lobster and Crab Roll (right).” The filling was excellent. It delivered bright, crisp flavors, emphasizing the sweet lobster and crab meats with just a hint of pungency from the onion. The filling was held together with the slightest amount of Old Bay infused mayonnaise, nestled in a leaf of lettuce, all in a soft, buttery bun. The “Fish Taco” (center) was served on a single tortilla, topped with cabbage slaw and finished with a layer of Cascabel salsa. The lightly coated fish was perfectly fried. It would have benefitted from a touch of seasoning; it was a little bland. The slaw was delicious with the addition of julienned mango, which added a delightful sweetness. The “Korean Style Braised Short Rib” (left) included slowly braised short rib, that was shredded, slathered in an Asian BBQ sauce and finished with cucumber slaw. The meat was one of the best I have tasted, rich in flavor and incredibly tender, and the vegetables added a good level of spiciness. Unfortunately, the BBQ sauce overwhelmed the other ingredients.

The “Pat La Freida Burger” (at the top of the article) was served with a scant amount of melted cheese, a thin slice of raw onion, lettuce, and tomato on a soft potato bun. Accompanying the burger were seasoned fries, pickle slices and OG Sauce, and branded into the top of the bun were the OG initials. Prior to cooking the patty was seasoned with a variety of spices including salt, pepper, onion and garlic powder and then splashed with Worcestershire sauce. It was grilled to medium-well (that is overcooked for me), the grind of the meat was highly compressed (I prefer a loose grind) and the seasoning overwhelmed the meat. The OG sauce was a good addition to balance the bold seasonings and created a better combination. The seasoned fries were well prepared, although added even more bold flavors.

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The other entree was the “Glazed Salmon,” served over braised leeks and lobster mashed potatoes and presented within a vertical shredded potato ring. The salmon was finished with a glaze of Whisky-maple sauce and black pepper. The kitchen prepared the salmon to medium-well, was a little dry and benefitted from the sweet contrast of the maple-honey glaze. The leeks were delicious and worked well with the salmon but the lobster mashed potatoes were a bit bland.

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Save room for dessert, especially the Caramel Crème Brulée. The OGSC version was excellent, with an extremely luscious Crème topped with a perfectly melted sugar topping. This was one of the best crème brulées I have eaten in quite some time.

Overall, I really liked the menu that the Old Greenwich Social Club has created. It offers a diverse selection for moms, dads, kids and adults in an environment for locals to bring family, friends and colleagues for a relaxed time. There were several misses by the kitchen on my visit with seasoning and temperatures, but the bones are in place for Old Greenwich residents to enjoy a good time in a familiar watering hole with drinks and food.

Really Liked

  • Smoked Trout Dip ($11)
  • Lobster and Crab Roll ($18)
  • Crème Brulée

Liked

  • Bacon Wrapped Dates ($7)
  • Fish Taco ($13)

Needs Improvement

  • Korean Style Braised Short Rib ($14)
  • Pat La Freida Burger ($13; cheese or bacon add $2)
  • Glazed Salmon ($24)

148 Sound Beach Ave, Old Greenwich, CT 06870

(203) 990-3033

 

 

The National (Greenwich) “Ugly Burger” is a Beautiful Thing

rsz_160310_ctb_burger_3There is a new King of the Hill of hamburgers in Greenwich.

Since celebrity chef Geoffrey Zakarian opened The National several months ago at the lower end of Greenwich Avenue, I have received numerous emails telling me about its burger. On a sunny day I ventured to Greenwich, grabbed a table and ordered “THE NATIONAL UGLY BURGER” which includes Cabot Cheddar cheese, crispy Shallots, Ntl Sauce, and served with malt vinegar chips. I ordered it medium-rare.

The burger arrived and it was served on a wooden cutting board, with a pickle speared through the top of the bun. The melted cheese was oozing around the edges, dripping towards the serving board. The sautéed shallots were peeking from under the cheese, partnered with the edges of a single lettuce leaf. If the taste was as good as the presentation, this would be a great burger. The burger was accompanied by the chips that were vertically arranged in a separate metal vase.

After removing the pickle, I cut the burger in half and the interior was cooked exactly to medium rare. The patty was medium in size, possibly 5-ounces, with a nice crust and the interior presented a very loose grind. A quick taste of the meat…a medium level of richness, with at least two cuts. (A call to the restaurant after my visit confirmed the meat was brisket and chuck from Creek Stone Farm in Arkansas City, Kansas and ground in-house.) The cheese was thick, and expertly melted atop the patty with the sautéed shallots between the two. Not mentioned on the menu was a sauce that was shmeared on the Challah roll (from Royal Bakers in Danbury).

The first bite of the Ugly Burger was far from ugly…it was fantastic. The ingredients were perfectly balanced. The meat delivered a medium level of richness, was juicy and incredibly smoky. The melted Cheddar cheese was creamy and very nutty. The two unique and delicious ingredients were the sautéed shallots that were very sweet and the sauce, with a tomato-tanginess…they were excellent additions. And the smokiness that the wood-burning grill infused into the meat was more than outstanding. The challah bun was a great choice, not only with its taste but it did not disintegrate during the meal.

The burger was served with malt vinegar chips. Unfortunately, these were very disappointing. They were overcooked, nearing burnt, and over-salted. I only wish they would change the menu to include fries instead of the chips. With a $19 price tag for the Ugly Burger, guests deserve a better accompaniment.

Overall the National Ugly Burger was outstanding. It presented incredible flavors, perfectly prepared and delivered wonderful balance.

376 Greenwich Ave – Greenwich, CT 06830

(203) 861-6851

Barrel House in Stamford: Pizza, Beer and Burgers

What is the result of combining an incredible selection of local beers, a wide choice of meats and vegetables to join delicious Mozzarella and red sauce atop a great pizza crust, with an atmosphere that is simultaneously relaxed and exciting? Barrel House in Stamford.

Barrel House opened last December in the space that formerly housed Market and Patrizia’s restaurants with a focus on pizza, burgers and and a vast array of local small brewed beers. The second restaurant by the owners of Cotto Wine Bar down the street, Claudio and Silvy Ridolfi, designed a very different atmosphere and menu. Silvy told CTbites, “We wanted people to come to Barrel House and enjoy pizza and burgers with friends.” From the moment you walk through the door, you know this will be a lively and fun-filled experience.

The restaurant seats over 100 guests in a combination of banquettes, high-top communal tables, and regular tables, all surrounded by rough hewn reclaimed wood walls and illuminated by retro-bulbs hanging indiscriminately from the ceiling. The entire left side of the dining room is occupied by the bar, with three TVs and a twenty-dispenser beer tap offering an array of local limited edition brews. Silvy mentioned, “Some of our beers are only available at Barrel House for a limited time. We work with many local breweries to offer our guests some very special beers.” The twenty-beer aluminum tap dispenser is like none I have seen, and many of the names were new to me including Triple Karmeliet, Left Hand Stout Nitro, Evil Twin Biscotti Break, Beer’d Whisker Witt and Troegs Scratch Series Choc Stout. In addition, Barrel House offers several wines by the glass, cocktails, and a few specialty cocktails.

The menu is divided into several sections, including Appetizers, Soups & Salads, Entrée, and Pizza…CTbites was invited to sample some of the appetizers, a few pizzas and one of the burgers.

The first appetizer was the Limoncello Wings, which can be ordered in a group of 6- or 12-wings. They were served with a side of chunky Gorgonzola cheese plus carrots and celery. The wings arrived, split at the joint, and lathered in a sauce that mixed Claudio’s Limoncello recipe with a spicy red sauce. The wings were slightly crisped on the exterior and moist on the interior. The resultant Limoncello sauce was more Buffalo-style, not too spicy. Dipping a winglet in the blue cheese created the traditional Buffalo-Gorgonzola cheese combination, and a great start to share with a few beers.

The other appetizer I enjoyed was the Eggplant Croquettes. Three golf-ball sized orbs were sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and served alongside a small dish of Marinara sauce. The croquettes were crispy on the exterior with the filling comprised of eggplant, smoked Provolone cheese, and Mozzarella cheese wonderfully gooey. These mini-eggplant parmesan balls were even better when dipped into the Marinara sauce.

Since a majority of the menu is focused on pizza, it was time to move to the main event. Barrel House offers two sizes, the regular, which is ample for two (or one with a very large appetite) and the “Pala.” The server mentioned it would serve 3-4, but it can easily be shared by 5 or 6. When it arrived I was overwhelmed by its size, and pleasantly surprised that the kitchen decided to create three separate pies on one large crust. The toppings were (a) a traditional pepperoni with Mozzarella and red sauce, (b) a “Broccoli” with rabe, sausage, red peppers and Mozzarella, and (c) a Diavola” with hot soppressata, Mozzarella, cherry peppers and black olives. When I asked the server about the three sections she stated that you can order the Pala with one, two or three separate combinations.

The first test of any pie is the crust, it sets the stage for the quality of the rest of the pie. Barrel House’s crust is outstanding, light and airy, like biting into a cloud, with just a hint of salt and a little chewiness. It is definitely one of the best in the area. The Pala was pre-cut into twelve pieces, each quite large, and the crust was ultra-thin throughout, and it was a bit difficult maneuvering the slices onto the plate Once there, each of the three sectors presented very distinct, and incredibly flavorful, combination.

The boldest was the “Diavola.” The diced cherry peppers were spicy, but not incendiary and the saltiness of the olives created a great salty-spicy balance, which were complemented by the soppressata and a wonderful red sauce. The pepperoni was my next stop and many judge a great pie by the pepperoni and Barrel House’s was as good as any. The pepperoni slices were razor thin, crispy, and delivered great flavor. A simple pepperoni pizza would be a great choice. The white broccoli rabe and sausage was a mild alternative to its two spicy neighbors. The sweet sausage ovals were a great accompaniment to the broccoli rabe and the Mozzarella cheese.

I also enjoyed a regular-sized “Veggie” that can be ordered either as a “white” or “red” pie. Mine was made without the red sauce and included eggplant, roasted red peppers, mushrooms and zucchini atop melted Mozzarella cheese. Each slice was dedicated to one of the toppings and they were delightful, mild, and earthy. The red sauce would be an excellent addition and I would order it “red” on the next visit.

I also sampled one of Barrel House’s Bacon Cheese Burgers, which is an 8-ounce patty served with melted Cheddar cheese, bacon, caramelized onions, on a brioche. The meat, bacon, cheese and bun were delicious, but the onions were much too sweet, distracting from the rest of the burger. I will call this burger a work-in-progress and I would order next time without the onions.

Overall, the downtown Stamford culinary scene has a new, and great place for pizza, burgers and beer. With a hip vibe, a great selection of beers and loads of toppings to make a fantastic pie, walk in, sit down and enjoy the atmosphere and the food with friends.

249 Main Street – Stamford, CT – 06901

203-890-9922

Really Liked

  • Eggplant Croquettes
  • Diavola pie
  • Pepperoni pie
  • Sausage and broccoli rabe pie

Liked

  • Limoncello wings
  • Veggie pie
  • Burger (without onions)

Parker Mansion (Westport) – Burger Review

ctb_parker_16_burgerParker Mansion opened recently in the Saugatuck section of Westport and I received several emails telling me I needed to visit and try their burger. With the weather more aligned with a good burger versus a hot bowl of soup I decided to see if the buzz was justified.

Located amongst Fleischer’s, Kawa Ni, Rainbow Thai, Rizzuto’s, and The Whelk, Parker Mansion is the latest opening in the burgeoning Saugatuck restaurant scene. The free-standing building has a few parking spots in the rear (careful in the rain as it is unpaved) and the entrance is along the right side of the building. When you enter, the bar is located to the left and if you continue down the hallway there are stairs leading to the second floor dining room. The bar has eight stools with three TVs broadcasting CNN, ESPN and MSNBC. In the middle of the room is a high-top table for six, plus additional seating for fourteen at traditional tables. The upstairs dining room seats approximately 30 guests, with a balcony overlooking the Saugatuck River. The atmosphere is open with clean lines to the décor. I chose a table in the bar area and was promptly greeted by the server, who was excellent throughout my visit.

The lunch menu offers Entrée Salads, Daily Features (entrées), and Burgers & Sandwiches.

I ordered “The Parker…chuck, short rib, porterhouse blend, cheddar, the works” and asked it prepared medium rare. The server asked if I would like fries, onion rings or sweet potato fries and I chose the fries. I inquired about “the works” and the server told me it included lettuce, tomato, frizzled onions, pickle slices, and special sauce.

When the burger arrived the first item I noticed was the size, Parker Mansion gives its guests a nice-sized burger, the patty probably weighs 6-8-ounces. The frizzled onions sat under the patty, the single slice of cheddar was melted on top and was further topped with the shredded lettuce, a slice of tomato and pickles. These ingredients were all encased in a griddled Kaiser roll. It was priced at $11, including fries, which is a very good deal.

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I cut the burger in half and it was prepared just a tinge beyond my requested medium-rare. I tasted the meat and it was fantastic, some of the best meat I have eaten, this could be a major burger find. The meat was a small grind and was delicately handled for a loose texture…kudos to the meat and the preparation. There was just a touch of sear on the exterior of the patty, more would have been preferred.

Now for the test. I bit…the taste was the great meat plus the intense tang from the pickle. The rest of the ingredients were lost. How could this be? It looked so good. I decided to taste each ingredient individually. The cheddar was very bland, not a rich cheddar, the tomato slice was also less than flavorful (it was still mid-February), the lettuce was, well, shredded lettuce and the bun did not add anything. Several bites and each was the same burger-pickle combo. Such potential from the meat, lost. I tried a few of the shoestring fries. They were good and were cooked and seasoned well.

Overall, I was incredibly excited when I saw the plate and tasted the patty, the meat was fantastic. I thought this was going to contend for a top spot. Unfortunately, the other ingredients were not in the same league, and did not add to the overall combination. I hope Parker Mansion changes the accompaniments. With the quality of the meat, Parker Mansion has the potential to create one of the best burgers in the area.

541 Riverside Ave., Westport, CT 06880

203.557.9325

Gates (New Canaan) Reopens

ctb_gates_16_bar_fotorWhen is Gates opening? How many of us have been asked, and have asked others, that question?

Good news…the anticipated re-opening is almost here and CTbites was invited by the new owners to sample several of the items that will be featured on the opening menu.

Gates, an institution that opened in 1979 as the first restaurant on Forest Street, was sold last year, and many residents compared the closing to the loss of an old friend.

Residents who have enjoyed a burger and beer at the bar or a family dinner in the dining room should feel a sense of excitement when the doors re-open very shortly. Those who have longed for that burger and beer at the bar or a family dinner in the dining room will again enjoy their meals at Gates – and yes, the name will remain ‘Gates.’ Diners will also find comfort in the direction that the new owners are taking to maintain the modernized nostalgia of this New Canaan institution.

They told CTbites, with children in the New Canaan school system, they wanted to create an inviting atmosphere where families can go for a great meal, and adults can enjoy a burger and beer in the bar. “Gates has been here for 35 years and we want it to be here for another 35 years.”

Gates is part of a larger, historical New Canaan institution that dates back over 125 years. Before looking at the new Gates, let’s rewind the calendar to 1882, when Henry B. Rodgers purchased, demolished and built the current structure using 650,000 bricks that were transported to Stamford by boat and on to New Canaan. Formerly a shoe factory, Rogers converted the space to manufacture clothing for the newest rage of that era, bicycling. Over the years it housed a shoe company, a linen shop, a drug store and a beauty shop. The first New Canaan gas lamp was situated in front of the Main Street entrance and Rogers was one of the first four residents in town who owned a telephone. The building has been embedded in the history of town and will be for years to come.

The interior of Gates has undergone a complete renovation under the guidance of Company K, a New Canaan based interior design firm. It now showcases the previously hidden brick walls and wooden beams. The new layout presents an open kitchen with “kitchen-bar seating”, and wood-topped tables under a newly coffered ceiling gently illuminated by retro lighting. The original iron gates that previously adorned the hostess area have been reconditioned and are floating between the bar and the dining area.

The centerpiece of the new bar area is an amazingly striking, refinished crafted metal bar fabricated by local artisan, Chris Curnan. Wood and metal booths offer an urban vibe for those looking for a more casual dining experience. The beverage menu highlights a wide selection of beer, ranging from local CT breweries to international favorites. The glass-front refrigerator behind the bar sports additional large and small label selections. Live music will be an occasional addition when dinner service begins to wind down on Saturday nights.

ctb_gates_16_chicken_2_fotorThe culinary concept for the new Gates is American comfort that, “will bring passion, heart and soul to the food.” It will feature a wood burning oven for a selection of artisanal flatbreads, plus a wood burning rotisserie to slow cook a variety of meats and poultry, each prepared to “melt in your mouth.” While these items act as the centerpiece for many of the entrées, they will also serve as the foundation in all of the sandwiches on the lunch menu. The opening menu will include a burger and hand-cut fries, Rotisserie Chicken, and assorted fresh fish and steaks. Several of these items were served during the pre-opening tasting and were delicious, an excellent indication of things to come.

The new Gates will be a destination for adults and families seeking a delicious meal, sports enthusiasts seeking a beer and burger in the bar, beer lovers thirsting for a wide selection of international and local brews, and couples looking to end an evening with a little live music and a nightcap.

Stay tuned as CTbites continues to provide additional details on the re-opening of Gates.

10 Forest St, New Canaan, CT 06840

Fleishers Craft Kitchen (Westport) Opens for Dinner Under Chef Adam Truelove

dsc_0943Saugatuck Craft Butchery was founded in 2011 by Ryan Fibiger and Paul Nessel with the philosophy of combining “traditional butchery skills with sustainable, whole animal practices and modern-day food movement ideals.” It purchases locally raised animals from farmers that share this philosophy, dry-ages the meat in-house and sells directly to the public. Over the last four years, as its popularity increased, it expanded to a new, larger location across the street that would feature both a butchery and a restaurant and earlier this year it merged with Fleishers Butchery, of Brooklyn, to become Fleishers Craft Butchery.

After the successful launch of breakfast and lunch service, Fleishers recently hired Chef Adam Truelove, formerly of Tarry Lodge, Napa & Co. and Pine Social to oversee its culinary expansion. In the last month it both opened its doors at its newest location in Cos Cob and expanded the service in Saugatuck to include dinner to showcase the farm raised meat and poultry from the butchery coupled with Chef Adam’s creativity. With a very low key environment, 30 seats and an additional six stools at the bar, the restaurant will offer a simple menu, as well as Family Dinners, from Tuesday through Saturday from 530-930PM.

The menu is divided into three sections, “Small,” “Burgers” and “From the Butcher.” The small plates range from cheese or meat platters to salads, to meatballs and pigs’ ears. With four choices of burgers, there are a full range of options for guests looking for a twin-thin to a large fatty patty (both beef and lamb are featured), while the entrée sized plates include several cuts from the butchery attached to the restaurant

CTbites was invited to sample a selection of the new cuisine.

dsc_0933The “Apple and Fennel Salad” was one of the best renditions of the currently popular kale salad I have tasted. The kale, slivered apples and fennel were tossed with a house-made bacon vinaigrette, shredded goat cheese and pistachios. The bacon-y vinaigrette was a fantastic complement to the kale with loads of smokiness that created a delightful combination. The apples brought a mild sweetness and the goat cheese a touch of saltiness. The pistachios rounded the salad with a nice earthiness and additional crunch.

dsc_0937The “Lamb Meatballs” were nestled in a swath of smoked ricotta and finished with a spiced red wine reduction and slivered scallions. The Indian influenced meatballs, seasoned with curry and cumin, were complemented by the creaminess of the smoked ricotta. They were soft and moist from the steaming and reheating in the wine reduction, which added a slight bitterness to the dish.

dsc_0930The last small plate was the “Crispy Pig,” which included chicharrones and thinly sliced strips of pig’s ears, which were braised before deep frying. The strips were coated with a spicy Sriracha sauce and parsley, and served with aioli. The chicharrones were crunchy pillows of air while the pork strips were the textural opposite; a chewy, crunchy texture. I was not a fan of this combination (a personal preference) but others at the table loved it.

dsc_0941The “Craft Burger” was included on my 2015 list of Best Burgers in Southwest Connecticut and the current version continues as one of my favorites in the area. The burger begins with a combination of dry-aged beef with a little added fat, dipped in an IPA cheese fondue, and topped with a few greens, bacon jam and an onion ring. The deep flavors of the dry-aged meats were perfectly balanced by the bacon jam and the fondue dip. The burger was encased in a brioche that added buttery goodness. Shoestring fries accompanied the burger and they were crispy on the exterior and soft on the interior

When you are sitting adjacent to one of the best butchery around, it is hard to select which of the entrée to choose, with a double-cut pork chop, a half chicken, steak frites (currently a Rib Eye) and a lamb dish all an option.

dsc_0943The highlight of the visit was the “Rib Eye,” the current cut for the Steak Frites. Since we enjoyed the fries earlier with the burger, Chef Adam paired the chop with brisket burnt ends and beans. After one bite, I knew this was an outstanding steak. The 16-ounce filet was cooked to a perfect medium-rare, with a great sear on the exterior. The deep, ultra-rich flavor was fantastic, fork-tender and reminiscent of a great steak house. The side of brisket burnt ends and beans was a wonderful accompaniment that both mellowed and enhanced the steak.

dsc_0939The “Pork Chop” was an enormous double-cut chop served atop a mound of sausage stuffing and a small side salad. The chop was served medium-rare and pink in the middle (order differently if desired) and glazed with a pomegranate molasses and finished with a dash of Gray rock sea salt. The sausage contained house-made sausage and brioche and offered just a hint of spicy-sweetness. The chop was moist and flavorful and delicious with the sweet pomegranate glaze.

Overall, the initial offerings at Fleisher’s were fun, creative and showcased the top-tiered quality of the butcher shop. Chef Adam informed us after the meal that lamb will be a continual offering to expand the year-round acceptance of this wonderful meat. The prices reflect the restaurant’s ability to offer exceptional quality at relatively reasonable prices. The $32 rib eye steak frites was a great value and the other entrées were priced in the mid-$20s. I look forward to returning to Fleishers to work my way through each of the meats and poultry.

Really Liked

  • Apple and Fennel Salad
  • Craft Burger
  • Rib Eye
  • Pork Chop

Liked

  • Lamb Meatballs

Did Not Like

  • Crispy Pig

580 Riverside Ave. – Westport CT 06880

(203)226-6328

 

1020 Post (Darien) – Pretty Ordinary Burger

ctb_1020_burger_1Almost every time the subject of where to eat in Darien arises, the name Ten Twenty Post is mentioned. Some have also recommended the burger and the last time I ate their House Burger was two years ago…it was time to give it a re-try. When I arrived around noon the twelve tables on the rear terrace were beginning to fill and without a cloud in the sky, all of the umbrellas were open and people were either looking for full sun or hiding in the shade.

The server informed me that the “House Burger on Soft Roll” was served with Gruyere cheese (the current website states Jarlsberg cheese), lettuce, tomato and onion, with a side of French fries. I asked if they could hold the lettuce, tomato and onion and add a couple of strips of bacon. I also asked that it be prepared medium-rare. As I sipped my water I found I was in a very small minority, almost everyone was drinking beer or wine. It was a festive mid-week lunch for many.

The burger arrived. The exterior of the patty had a good sear, the cheese was nicely melted but the two strips of bacon were just thrown on top as one…both on one side of the patty, not a lot of care in its placement. The bun, which was a basic, soft bakery bun, was nicely grilled. There was a good sized mound of fries and several slices of B&B pickles.

ctb_1020_burger_2I cut the burger in half. My guess would place the weight in the 5 oz. range, and the size was more on the thin versus thick side. It was prepared a little beyond medium, much more than my requested medium rare. The grind was very compressed, and there was very little juice escaping. I first tasted the meat, it had a good level of beefiness, very good flavor. A taste of the bacon and Gruyere cheese gave me a different impression, both were on the bland side, and the bun was also not very flavorful. A bite of the combination gave a beefy flavor with the other ingredients adding little to the dish. There was just a hint of juiciness in my first taste but it became drier with each succeeding bite. By the time I started the second half, the burger was very dry. The fries were nicely cooked and seasoned and the B&B pickle slices were excellent. The cost of the burger was $17, which was high for its quality.

Overall it was a flavorful patty that was overcooked, causing it to dry out, with bland toppings. I previously rated the burger a “6” on my 1-10 scale, but given the blandness of all of the items (with the exception of the meat) I now rate the House Burger at Ten Twenty a “5”.

 

Bogey’s (Norwalk) – Just an OK Burger

bogeys_ctb_prime_burgerI was driving by Bogey’s on Cross Street in Norwalk last week when I saw a new, large banner proclaiming “Voted Best Burger in Fairfield County.” When a restaurant proudly proclaims that distinction I am excited about the prospect of enjoying another quality product and hopefully add it to my growing list of great burgers.

After a little research, I discovered that this is not the first venture for the owners of Bogey’s, they also owned the same named restaurant in Westport. Earlier this year it relocated to its current location, again offering a wide array of pub fare, from sandwiches to chicken to steaks. The space in the new location is separated into two areas; to the right of the entrance is the dining area with tables and booths while the left side offers a four sided bar plus several tables.

There are two distinct burgers on the menu. The first is the “Angus Burger” ($11), which is simply 8-oz of Angus Beef, plus lettuce and tomato. For an additional $1 it can be prepared with cheese. The other burger is “The Prime Beef Burger” that includes 8-oz of Allen Brothers USDA Prime blend topped with Applewood smoked bacon, Blue cheese, and a fried egg (not mentioned on the menu but included on my burger were lettuce and tomato), served with French fries ($16). When the server approached I asked her which was the recipient of the award and she responded “they both were.”

I was a little confused by her response, but ordered the Prime Beef Burger medium-rare. It was both wide and tall; the patty sat atop slices of lettuce and tomato, with the bacon, cheese and egg layered on top of the patty. The fried egg was cooked perfectly, slightly crisped on the edges, the bacon and melted cheese were hidden beneath the egg with the edges of the bacon jutting slightly out from under the egg. I cut the burger in half, releasing the yolk and saw the patty was cooked exactly to my requested medium-rare, with an excellent char on the exterior. When I saw that the grind was very compressed I was a little disappointed; it appeared that it was pressed several times to achieve the exterior sear.

I really enjoyed my first taste of the meat, the flavor was excellent and delivered a great, deep richness. This might have led to a great combination and deserved the honor, but unfortunately this is where I diverge from the award. The bacon was well cooked but it was much too salty and the Blue Cheese overwhelmed the wonderful meat flavor. The egg added a delightful creaminess but also fought with the meat, and all were served on a non-descript bun, which added nothing to the overall composition. Each of the ingredients, by themselves, was very bold, but the combination was not complementary at all. In addition, after one bite, I removed the tomato as it was an over-ripe grocery store variety. The fries were good, they were crispy on the exterior and soft on the interior and served piping hot

Overall, Bogey’s definitely chose a fantastic meat for the Prime Beef Burger (I was told on a previous visit that the meat in the other burger was not the same blend) and with a better balance from the other ingredients, there is a possibility that I would agree that it is an excellent burger, but I enjoyed other options in Fairfield County much better.

Sitting Duck Tavern (Stratford) – Pretty Good Burger

Travelling north on the Merritt on a Friday evening is never a pleasant experience, but given the recommendations from others about the burger at The Sitting Duck Tavern in Stratford, we waited through the traffic and delays and eventually arrived in downtown Stratford around 7PM. The exterior tables were was already completely full, did not want one upstairs, and we grabbed a booth on the right side overlooking the kitchen pass.

Our server was very prompt in the drink and food orders and was knowledgeable and pleasant throughout the meal. I ordered a bacon cheeseburger, medium-rare, with bacon and fronions with a side of French fries. There were two other burger orders from the group, the other two were ordered medium, plus we ordered a side of onion rings for the table.

When the burgers arrived the first thing I noticed was the size of the patty. Sitting Duck is very generous with the meat. I lifted the top bun and saw the two slices of bacon, the melted cheese, but barely any fronions. I was disappointed in the meagerness of the fronions. This all sat atop shredded lettuce and a thin slice of tomato. I cut the burger in half and it was more medium than medium-rare and one of my dinner companions was the medium-rare doneness while mine was the medium…just a little carelessness by the kitchen.

I tasted the meat and was impressed, it had a medium level of beefiness and very tasty. The bacon was well cooked and the cheese was nicely melted. Since I did not order the lettuce and tomato, I removed these two items and took a bite of the complete package, it was very good. The fries were very basic and the restaurant decided to use an off-brand ketchup, not Heinz, and it was surprisingly good.

The order of onion rings consisted of four, yes four, rings. Three were very small and one was large. It was almost embarrassing, four onion rings in an order for a table of four. The coating was very thick and the onion itself was mushy. Having my single ring was enough.

Overall, I liked the casualness of the Sitting Duck and the burger was pretty good. As I watched the food leave the kitchen my guess is 75% of the orders are burgers, which is a good sign. There is a banner on the front stating it is “A Hidden Gem,” but seeing the crowd and the number of burgers leaving the kitchen I am not sure it is hidden any longer.

Sitting Duck Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato