Jump (Toronto) – Great Space; Food Needs a Little TLC

miso glazed black codI understand Jump recently re-opened and the redecorated space is gorgeous. Upon entering the restaurant you approach the Hostess station and are standing aside a floor-to-ceiling whisky-bottled adorned wall. To the right is a bar area with tables and beyond the station is the dining area. The main area is airy and the tables are separated for private conversation, whether at one of the rectangular tables or at one of the banquettes. I found the noise level moderate with 35% occupancy, but could still hear my colleagues.

The staff was very friendly and efficient but I would warn people that they really upsell the in-house water which is $2.50 per person. It was well worth the price for me, but just be aware that it is not free. The corkage is also $25 per bottle on a BYOB, again just a head’s up. Not being a native I am not sure if this is customary in Toronto.

I ordered a half order of “Truffle Ricotta Gnocchi” with Northern Woods wild mushrooms and porcini cream to start and the “Miso-Glazed Black Cod” with stir-fried mustard greens, jasmine and black rice for my entrée.

gnocchiThe Gnocchi included four 1-inch long cylinder shaped gnocchi, topped with an assortment of mushroom sections (from Northern Wood) in a porcini cream sauce. The gnocchi were fair at best, very dense, with very little flavor and there was little, if any, seasoning. The mushrooms were more pedestrian than wild, unless you define quartered cremini, which comprised most of them, as wild. But the sauce was delightful, a deep rich earthy sauce. At first glance I was disappointed in the size but after I finished I was glad I did not waste the calories. Unless they change the recipe for the gnocchi I would go for a different appetizer.

The miso glazed Black cod with mustard greens was a picture perfect presentation, but the flavors were all over the spectrum, from non-existent to spicy. The fish was perfectly cooked and was moist as expected in a fatty cut of fish. The miso glaze was very uneven with certain bites delicious and others with no flavor. The mustard greens were nicely prepared but did not have that slightly bitter-y quality I was looking for. Both of these components sat atop a rice pilaf, which was about as flavorless as possible. It was akin to basic boiled rice. These were all nestled in a red sauce that had a good kick. Overall I did not like this dish and would recommend going in a different direction…it has potential but needs a little TLC from the kitchen.

Overall I was pleased with the environment but disappointed in the food. It has a lot of potential with the design of the menu but execution needs to catch up.

Jump on Urbanspoon

Top-10 Restaurant Burgers in SW Connecticut – #5 Harlan Social Burger

One of the great aspects of gentrification is the restaurants that come with. Harlan Social was one of the first restaurants to open in the area formerly dedicated to industry, sharing a vision and a parking lot with Fairway Markets. Executive Chef/ Owner Steven Lewandowski is creating incredible flavor combinations. With every ingredient of every dish thoroughly thought through the Harlan Burger delivers an array of flavors found in none other that I tried. And then the Portuguese Muffin adds a sweet component.

BL2 Harlan SocialThe “Harlan Burger” included a special blend of short rib, chuck and brisket from Pat Lafrieda and then Executive Chef / Owner Steve Lewandowski elevated the flavors with his unique toppings. He first basted the burger with his house-made “Japanese Worcestershire Sauce” and then added his “Cheddar Ale Sauce,” comprised of four varieties of cheese, mushroom stock and cream ale. He topped these items with a Bacon Onion Jam. The sweet, sour, salty, umami elements were all present. Then Chef Lewandowski encased the burger in a Portuguese Muffin from Boston, which added a delicious sweet accent.

Read the entire list of best Restaurant Hamburgers at http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/19/ten-best-restaurant-burgers-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

Harlan Social on Urbanspoon

Best Restaurant Burgers in SW Connecticut – #4 elm Restaurant (New Canaan)

Before Chef Brian Lewis opened elm restaurant I was forewarned that his hamburger was extraordinary. And yes it is. When the restaurant first opened the burger was still in the distance, but once the Sunday Brunch offerings were in place, this burger made a huge mark on my palate. It is an exceptional pairing of flavors and textures and is a further indication of the genius that Chef Lewis brings to the kitchen.

bl2 elmThe “elmburger” is another winning dish created by Chef Brian Lewis. The burger started with an incredibly flavorful meat topped with soft and sweet caramelized onions and a layer of melted Gruyere cheese. The caramelized onions were the best that I sampled on my travels and the Gruyere added a slight nuttiness to the dish. (The cheese changes often). Unlike any other burger in the area, the elmburger sits atop a swath of Sriracha aioli that added just a touch of heat (the only burger tasted that included a spicy component) to take the flavors to another level. The bun was toasted and a delicious addition to the meal. The burger was served with thick cut fries.

Read the entire list of best Restaurant Hamburgers at http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/19/ten-best-restaurant-burgers-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

Elm Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Best Restaurant Burgers in Southwest CT – #2 South End Burger

South End Restaurant in New Canaan opened in 2012. The brainchild of Owner / Chef Nick Martschenko and his business partner Keith Siskind, South End is a hot spot in town. On any night the restaurant boasts a busy crowd enjoying Martschenko’s modern day interpretations of traditional food. With one of the best meatballs in the area it is a go-to spot. And the hamburger is fantastic. The “South End Burger” is one of the best hamburgers I have ever eaten.

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(Photo courtesy of Jane Beiles and CTbites)

The “South End Burger” created by Chef Nick Martschenko started with fantastic beef, topped with double smoked bacon, American cheese, South End burger sauce and served on a Wave Hill poppy seed roll. The flavor of the meat was perfect, and Chef Martschenko charred the exterior while maintaining a medium rare interior that oozed tons of juicy goodness. The bacon was crisp and flavorful and complemented the meat. A few slices of B&B pickles adorned the burger and added another delightful flavor and the melted American cheese encased the patty. The sauce was a chunky spiced ketchup-y delight, which added another flavor level. The roll was light on flavor and allowed the bold flavors inside to shine. The fries were delicious, lightly salted with a dusting of parmesan cheese and was a great side for the burger.

Check out the entire top 10 list at http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/19/ten-best-restaurant-burgers-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

South End on Urbanspoon

Best Restaurant Burgers – #2 Chelsea / Match

This is not the first time I have written about the cheeseburger at Match and its sister restaurant Chelsea…they are both so great. I witnessed the creation of this masterpiece and it continues as an incredibly delicious array of flavors and textures. Chef Matt Storch continues to push the envelope with flavor combinations and the burgers at both of his restaurants are fantastic.

What separates this burger from the others is the Bacon-Cheese Béchamel sauce. Unlike any other cheese topping in my tour. And the French fries were also the top of the list.

bl2 chelseaThe “Chelsea Burger” and the “Match Burger” each delivered an incredible array of flavors. Chef Matt Storch’s burger started with Craft Saugatuck Butchery’s rich, grass fed short rib, chuck and brisket combination. After grilling to create a crisp char and smokiness, the burger was dipped in a Bacon-Cheese Béchamel, a process created by Chef Storch. Bacon bits sat atop the cheese-dipped burger to add saltiness and then sweet-sour onions finished this presentation. The burger was encased in a sweet onion brioche from the Good Bread Company in Port Chester, which added just a little more sweetness to the burger. The fries at Match were the best I tasted, and Chef Storch told me he worked years developing his technique; crunchy on the exterior, soft and moist on the interior and were the perfect complement to the burger.

See the full list of the Best Restaurant Burgers from Greenwich to New Haven at http://www.ctbites,com:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/19/ten-best-restaurant-burgers-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

Ciao

Match on Urbanspoon

The Chelsea on Urbanspoon

#1 Hamburger in Southwest CT – The Whelk (Westport)

One year, hundreds of miles, close to 30 pounds of meat, thousands of fries…searching for the ten best hamburgers. While others merely create lists of hamburgers from websites, I devoured almost 70 different varieties in as many locations. And at the end of this long and winding road stood Chef Bill Taibe’s beef burger served at The Whelk in Westport.

bl2 WhelkInteresting that a restaurant named after a mollusk with 90% of cuisine devoted to some of the best fish and seafood anywhere also delivers the best burger in the area. But with Bill Taibe overseeing the cuisine, nothing should surprise you.

Have the table start with an assortment of oysters and clams and then move to the main dish. For the carnivores, just sit back and enjoy the best burger around while the rest of the table can enjoy some of the best and creative seafood around. It’s a beautiful thing.

Owner Chef Bill Taibe and Chef Geoff Lazlo created my favorite burger this year, combining rich flavored meat, sweet pickles, cry baby Swiss cheese, two varieties of bacon, crisped onions and onion mayo on a brioche bun. The dry aged blend of short rib, brisket and chuck from Craft Saugatuck Butchery was fantastic. The cheese covered, thick patty sat atop two different varieties of bacon that added saltiness and smokiness, while slices of sweet pickles, a slice of frisée and the onion accented mayo brought additional flavors and textures. Sitting atop the plump patty were handful of crisped onions. These were all encased in a sweet brioche bun. The flavors were overwhelmingly delicious with smoky, salty, sweet all complementing the deep, rich flavors of the beef with the crisped onions adding a fun and crunchy texture. The hamburger was served with shoestring fries that were perfectly prepared and salted.

See the entire list of the Best 10 Hamburgers from Greenwich to New Haven at http://www.CTbites.com

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/19/ten-best-restaurant-burgers-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

The Whelk on Urbanspoon

Jfood’s Top 10 Bar Burgers – Greenwich to New Haven #2 Super Duper Weenie

The First Runner Up for Best Bar Burger after tasting close to 70 different variations in restaurants comes from a haunt that is know for serving one of the best hot dogs in these parts. But as I stood in line one day I saw a little sign for “The Natural” and decided to give it a shot. And boy was I pleasantly surprised, it was absolutely delicious.

sdw the natural

The “Natural” burger was 6 ounces of delicious chuck and sirloin from Newtown’s Butcher’s Best Market. Owners Gary Zemola, John & Lorin Pellegrino created a very distinct flavor in the meat and the kitchen perfectly seasoned the patty. It was served on a bun from Chaves Bakery (plain or potato depending on the season) that allowed the flavor of the burger to shine. The grill-master cooked it to a perfect medium-rare. The bacon and cheese were excellent additions. You may also want to try one of Zemola’s house-made toppings (recipes are the same for over a decade) to add other great flavors and textures.

See the full list at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/5/top-10-bar-burgers-from-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

(photo courtesy of Super Duper Weenie)

Super Duper Weenie on Urbanspoon

Jfood’s Top 10 Bar Burgers – Greenwich to New Haven #3 Black Duck

Overlooking the Saugatuck River and in the shadows of I-95 sits the Black Duck. Not visible from the street, this Westport institution has been included in my list of Best Burgers for several years and is again worthy of inclusion. Now #3 on my list of Best Bar Burgers from Greenwich to New Haven is the Black Duck.

EO_Black_Duck_Burger1This burger was six ounces of handcrafted 80-20 Angus and I ordered mine topped with frizzled onions and cheese. It was cooked to perfection, the exterior had a nice crust and medium pink occupied the middle. It was rich in flavor and the texture was soft and the size of the patty allowed the flavor of the meat to be the highlight of the burger. The frizzled onions were fantastic. The bun was plain but sturdy enough to handle the juicy burger and did not interfere with all the great flavors of the meat. The onion rings were my choice, with a crispy, thick coating.

See the full list of my Top-10 Bar Burgers at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/5/top-10-bar-burgers-from-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

(photo courtesy of Ctbites.com)

Black Duck Cafe on Urbanspoon

Jfood’s Top 10 Bar Burgers – Greenwich to New Haven #4 Cherry Street East

The second week of the countdown to the best Bar Burger from Greenwich to New Haven continues. And in the Number 4 slot is Cherry Street East. This institution burnt to the ground several years ago and the owners and locals joined forces to rebuild an exact replica of the former CSE. I am glad they did, since the Vermonster combination is one of my favorites in the area.

Minolta DSCThe “Vermonster” was served on an English muffin with bacon and sharp Cheddar cheese. The 8-ounce burger was ground and hand-formed daily on-site and cooked on a gas-fired indoor grill. The meat reminded me of the old-fashioned soda shop burgers and the Cheddar cheese and bacon added great flavor. The English muffin was a great addition and added just a little bit of tang. The fries (regular and sweet potato) were very good but the house cut onion rings were probably the best in the area and a perfect side for this great burger.

See the full list of my Top-10 Bar Burgers at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/5/top-10-bar-burgers-from-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

Cherry Street East on Urbanspoon

Jfood’s Top 10 Bar Burgers – Greenwich to New Haven #5 Burgers Shakes & Fries

EO_BSF_Double2

For number 5 on my list of Best Bar Burgers from Greenwich to New Haven I bring you Burgers, Shakes and Fries. The brain child of owner Kory Wollins, BSF started the burger revolution in these parts several years ago and is still going strong, with a second, larger  location in Darien. Many want their burger on a bun, but I think the BSF burger is just fantastic on the griddled bread.

There are two locations, but the burgers were significantly better in the Byrum location. The meat was delicious and cooked to order. My selection was the single with bacon. American cheese and fried onions, plus fries and a chocolate shake. The meat was rich in flavor and perfectly prepared, the bacon and cheese added saltiness and creaminess, respectively and the grilled onions were the best in the area. I loved the buttered and grilled toast as the “bun.” The fries were also fantastic and for a change of pace the sweet potato tots were also a good option. The burger, shake and fries were a fantastic meal.

See the full list of my Top-10 Bar Burgers at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/5/5/top-10-bar-burgers-from-greenwich-to-new-haven-2013.html

(photo courtesy of CTbites.com)

Burgers Shakes & Fries on Urbanspoon