Tag Archives: recipes

BLDG (New Haven) – The Food is Spectacular

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I’ve driven by the building hundreds of times in the last 45 years and had absolutely no idea it was designed by one of the greatest architects of the 20th century, Marcel Breuer, one of the famous Harvard 5. Commissioned by the Armstrong Rubber, I knew it as the Pirelli Tire HQ, sitting on the northern side of I-95 across from the food trucks and on the same campus as Ikea. You all know the building from its exterior, the interior is now a Hilton, and hidden within the lobby floor is some of the best food in New Haven county…served at BLDG. 

Overseeing the kitchen is former Hell’s Kitchen finalist, Megan Gill, whose door did not open on the last night of Season 20, “Young Guns,” while the winner Trenton Garvey’s did. After a quick stop in Texas at a high-end country club Megan moved to CT and I am glad she did, the food is spectacular. The space is more hotel breakfast diner than upscale chic, but make no mistake about it, the food is way up the sophistication scale. 

We started with a shared MARINATED OLIVES with garlic, lemon, orange peel, and herbs.

$8. I rarely rave about a bowl of olives, but these were special. They were soft, full of flavor, and completely infused with a good level of citrus-ness. This was a great start to the meal. I give them a 9.

For my entrée, I chose the NE FISH & CHIPS, described as Massachusetts skate, house fries, malt vinegar, and lemon ($26). I am a big fan of skate and just a big a fan of fish & chips. When I saw this combo, it was a gotta-have. And I am glad I did. The breading was perfect, lightly coated and then flash fried. The result was a complete crisp-moist combo between the exterior and the interior. The skate was a fantastic choice by the chef. This was easily a 10. The fish sat atop a huge mound of seasoned fries. If there was one small nit to the dish, the bay seasoning that covered the fries was just a little too much, I would have preferred a lighter touch.

While not on the paper menu, one of the specials for the evening was Sesame Noodles with peanut sauce. If the server lets you know it is available on your visit, you absolutely must order. While the server mentioned that a protein can be placed atop, go naked with the dish. The noodles were spectacular and the dressing even better. The peanut sauce had just a touch of spiciness. This is easily a 10+.

Back on the menu was the TRUFFLE RISOTTO ($10). As a big fan of risotto and add another fave, the truffles, it was an easy choice to include as a shared dish. Everyone was “give me more” on the risotto, one in the party thought it was even better than the noodles, sorta a how high is up argument. The rice was perfectly cooked with just a little resistance, a little gooey-ness from the cheese, and then the flavors kicked in and they were fantastic. This was the second 10+ appetizer for the table.

Almost every meal has a weak link, and it was unanimous that the MUSHROOMS was the unfortunate member in that category on our visit. Whether the kitchen lost focus when prepared or the item was still in beta mode, this was a plate of chopped and sauteed mushrooms, full stop. No one at the table thought they were in the same league as the rest of the dishes. Unfortunately, I can only give a 1 for this dish, with the hope that the kitchen was focused elsewhere when it was preparing.

Dessert time rolled in, and we opted for two of them. The big winner was the APPLE GALETTE, prepared with NY honeycrisp apples, and caramel sauce, and served a la mode ($12). the pastry chef nailed the galette. I was very surprised by the size, it was a very large portion, contrary to the current downsizing approach to many desserts. The crust was buttery, and crispy and was a great canvas for the apples. The choice of honeycrisp was a great idea and the caramel sauce was a wonderful accompaniment. I give this an easy 10.

On the other hand, the CHOCOLATE LAVA CAKE ($12) with house-made whipped cream and fresh berries was a distant second. While many restaurants serve this as a cake on a plate, BLDG serves their lava cake still in the ramekin, which was more lava than cake. While the flavors were incredibly rich and chocolatey, it was more of a wonderful chocolate accompaniment for the whipped cream and berries. I can only give this a 6.

When we saw the space, we were a little skeptical, but when the food started descending onto the table the elevation of excellence soared. The noodles, the risotto, and the fish & chips were all perfect and then to conclude with the perfect galette made for a wonderful dinner.

Domenick & Pia – Great Pizza Find in Waterbury

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I gotta go to the DMV…

In the old days, you would have packed lunch, dinner, and possibly an overnight bag. Now, you make an appointment online, show up, check-in, bam, boom, out in under 30 minutes, total. So when I recently scheduled my visit, I chose a lunchtime appointment so I could combine it with seeking out a hidden gem in Waterbury. And this time I finally found one…Domenick & Pia Downtown Pizzeria.

Domenick and Pia is located at 3 Brook St. around the corner from the Palace Theatre and the University of Connecticut (Waterbury) and has served pizza to the local community for over 50 years. Any place that successfully thrived and survived through those economic swings of Waterbury has something to offer. To say Domenick and Pia is a hole in the wall would be an understatement. While the exterior reflects the recent gentrification of this small part of Waterbury, walk through the doors and whoosh, back to the 1970s. The general ambiance of the interior is probably reflecting its grand opening with Formica-topped and wood-trimmed tables, push-on prices reminiscent of the side-of-the-road hamburger stands, red plastic trays to carry your pick-up order to the table, the whole nine yards. My guess is the original pie-price was under $2, with a 25-cent slice-price. There is no glamour, no TVs, no beer, just good old-fashioned pizza, a couple of hot oven grinders, a ton of drink options, and one of the most pleasant staff imaginable. To succeed with this formula, the pizza better be really good. Mission accomplished.

I ordered two slices from the young lady, one sausage and the other pepperoni…”let me throw those in the oven to make them perfect again.” Over my right shoulder I heard, “Throw a second sausage on that tray.” Obviously a regular and normal SOP, very cool.

She collected my $5 for the two slices, placed the plastic tray on the counter added a few napkins and I waited for my hot slices to…emerge…received…a little walk to a cleared table and a few photos. The slices looked very good, and my next step was to look at the underside. It was really well done, a nice brown with no burns, and it felt a little crunchy.

Now the test, and that first bite sets the stage, and the third bite is the litmus test (yes it is the third, NOT the first bite of a pizza slice that counts). I went with the pepperoni (it was closer) and the first bite brought a smile. The price may be 10X from when Domenick and Pia opened, but the pizza immediately transported me to those childhood days of eating pizza. The crust was crisp, had some great tomato sauce (probably housemade), the cheese was just the right flavor and amount, and the pepperoni gave a nice kick without too much spiciness. Major pass on bite #1. After two more bites, this slice passed all the tests, it was great.

Onto the sausage slice. My preference is for chunks of sausage versus slices, Domenick and Pia chose the latter. Bite #1 on the sausage side was also a pleasant surprise. The sausage was very good, not perfect but really, really good. I like a little more fennel and chunks, but for sliced sausage, it was almost perfect. And given the crust, sauce, and cheese combo, it was a great slice.

As I was leaving I decided to return and thank the person behind the counter who I thought was the owner. When I complimented him and the pizza, he called for his mother from the back and said this was all her doing. So there I was thanking the founder/matriarch and the son who has kept this Waterbury tradition alive for over fifty years. My hat’s off to the founder, the son, the staff, and the pizza. It was a great find for some incredible slices.

Domenick and Pia

3 Brook St.

Waterbury, CT 06702

(203) 753-3401

https://www.domenickpiadowntownpizzeria.com

Olea (New Haven) is Worth the Visit

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Our first venture to Olea in New Haven was a delightful experience, with a couple of outstanding dishes and one I did not enjoy. 

As you approach the restaurant via your GPS, take note, as there is very little flare to the exterior, a nice, simple entrance on the right side of the street. Once inside, you will enjoy a refined, yet vibrant decor, tables to the left and in the rear, which share its space with a large bar area, fully alive with patrons. We were lucky to have a great table in the middle of the room.

We started with two appetizers, the Tuna Tartare ($18), described as yellowfin tuna, tomato, ginger, soy sauce, sesame seeds, aioli, crispy wonton and the Pulpo ($17), which was Spanish octopus a la plancha, potato foam, celery, sweet piquillo pepper, tomato, capers, and paprika.

The tuna tartare was a nice mound of chopped tuna with a few wontons on the side. The tuna was fresh, fragrant and benefitted from a mild soy sauce accompaniment. It was a great start to the evening and I give it a good solid 9. The Octopus was one large tentacle with an enormous amount of foam. The small end of the tentacle was vastly overcooked, the thicker end was much better. I basically left the skinny end of the tentacle and really enjoyed the other end. The foam was more a stew of ingredients. I liked the potato aspect of the foam, but not as much a fan of the grape tomatoes that was a detriment to the dish. I give the pulpo dish an 8

For my entrée, I ordered the Scallops ($35), which were pan seared scallops, cauliflower, potato, ají amarillo, puffed quinoa, bell pepper-mango vinaigrette. The five scallops were medium sized, seared on one side with a stringy texture and not exceptionally flavorful, lacked succulence, and were very disappointing. They sat atop a molded (cauliflower) cake with the first bite overwhelmingly citrusy. The sauce was very nice and there were numerous textures with the diced veggies and puffed quinoa. Given the disappointment of the scallops and the way too citrussy cauliflower cake, I can only give this dish a 5.

Looking to rally after the scallops, we ordered the Chocolate Textures ($14) for dessert. This included a chocolate mousse-vanilla ice cream sandwich, milk chocolate rice crispy, chocolate-hazelnut ice cream, nougatine, white chocolate soup (spoiler alert, this contains alcohol). The dessert was the major hit of the evening. I started with the ice-cream sandwich, and it was delicious, and then moved to the crispy, which was even better. The single scoop of ice cream was also delicious. This was a complete homerun at a 10

In addition to the ordered items above, Olea also offers bread, which was very good, as well as a small potato croquette pre-dinner which was also good.

I had very high hopes for Olea. Some dishes were excellent, but on the next visit I will definitely avoid the scallops.

Great Burger in Oxford at Sitting Duck Tavern

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Cheeseburger, cheeseburger, Pepsi, Pepsi. 

What is the fascination with cooked ground meat placed between a couple of slices of bread? From Germany to Ohio to New Haven, the simple ground beef sandwich has exploded from its plebian beginnings to a cult following, with the USDA estimating that Americans consume 50,000,000,000 (that’s 50 billion) burgers per year. 

And the burger ain’t what it used to be over 150 years ago; you can now grill it…fry it…smoke it…griddle it…steam it…smash it? One type of meat…two…three…four? Loose grind, course grind? Mustard, ketchup, lettuce, tomato, cheese, bacon, pickles, avocado, onions…on and on? If you do the math there are thousands of combinations. And then the doneness decision on rare, medium-rare, medium and don’t get me started.

Years ago, I ate close to 150 burgers a year in pursuit of the best in CT. Now I am a little wiser, I look for the needle in the haystack, the place where you can go with friends and enjoy a consistent and delicious burger. And the place that has delivered the consistency of the medium-rare bacon cheeseburger can be found in none other than The Sitting Duck Tavern in the Quarry Walk in Oxford (there are two other locations in Stratford and Trumbull). Each time I visit, it is a mouth-watering delight.

The Duck is a local place. On any day you will find families, dates, da guys, GNOs (that’s girls’ night out), and locals just shooting the breeze, grabbing one of sixteen beers on tap, watching the games, having some special family time. Seating options include booths, tables, in front of the fireplace or a stool at the bar, plus a patio, enough for 150 guests.

My go-to meal is the burger. There are three pre-determined options, the Sitting Duck Burger with lettuce and tomato (served with or without cheese), the Tavern Burger, a Chipotle spiced patty with house-made “bacon jam”, lettuce, tomato, and Vermont cheddar, and the Cadillac Burger with BBQ sauce, a cheddar blend, bacon, chipotle ranch, sitting atop a handful of fronions. I view these as guidance and The Duck has no issue with a mix-and-match audible.

After careful research and numerous adjustments, I highly recommend the following off-the-menu combo, the Sitting Duck Burger with American cheese, bacon, and here’s the twist…add the bacon jam, ordered medium rare. The patty is a large 8-ounce from Pineland Farms, a perfectly seasoned and lightly compressed gem. The kitchen nails the temperature absolutely every time, with a good hard sear on the outside and a darkish pink on the interior. The American cheese works perfectly with all burgers, and the cheese on this version is no exception, melted and gooey. The Duck is generous with the bacon, with three thick, smoky rashers crisscrossed on top. One bite and you gain the full sense of the smokiness from the cooking. And then there is the bacon jam, which adds a touch more smokiness and a tang of sweetness. All these are encased in a super puffy hamburger roll. This combo stands on its own, no mustard or ketchup is required. 

I’d be remiss if I omitted the last bit of advice, order the regular fries. They are slightly thicker than traditional shoestrings, seasoned just right, and a quick dip in the ketchup will add to the full burger and fries experience. 

Overall, The Duck offers a bunch of options for everyone in the family. But for this burger lover, having this local place that offers this level of deliciousness is fantastic.

360 Center Rock Green

Oxford, CT 06478

(203) 941-5141

https://www.sittingducktavern.com

Meraki – A Hidden Gem in Litchfield

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As you travel through the rolling hills of Litchfield County, you are mesmerized by its beauty, the intertwining of scenic farms, silos and barns dating back hundreds of years nestled amongst wineries, with their vines reminding you of the connection to the land. Surrounding the bucolic town of Litchfield, the gastronomic options are staggering, from brilliant Italian, to farm-to-table dinners that will satisfy your wildest culinary desires to glorious ice cream. About a mile west of the Litchfield common sits a small, unassuming, side of the road, hidden gem, Meraki, serving some of the boldest combinations I have tasted in quite some time. 

When you first enter Meraki, it reminds you of a local coffee shop, air pots of coffee, a large variety of pastries from scones to brownies to numerous gluten-free options. Lift your eyes above the ordering counter to the chalkboard menu, and you will see how Meraki has elevated the breakfast experience, with fifteen different hot coffee/tea options and a dozen cold plus shots and a variety of “milks.” Taking center stage on that chalkboard are the breakfast options, from a simple egg sandwich to a breakfast burrito. I smiled as I read that the “Healthy Plate” included an over-easy egg, cheese, bacon and avocado. As I approached the young lady to order, she was quick to point to the other chalkboard on the right wall that described another fourteen “All Day Café” offerings, then she handed me a paper menu that included even more enticing choices. Needless to say, Meraki has something for everyone.

After I ordered my three sandwiches, I sat amongst a few other lucky patrons at one of the seven small tables (there is also a large patio for warmer times). This is a local haunt, a couple of high school students enjoying a wrap and some tik-tok banter, an elderly couple out for a mid-day meal and a few local ladies sharing tea, soup and salads, the vibe was relaxed, inviting and pleasant. The excitement began when the food arrived. 

The highlight of the visit was the Meraki Porchetta, it was possibly the best breakfast sandwich I have ever eaten, taking the mainstream bacon, egg and cheese to a whole, new level. It included a local fried egg, spicy house kimchi, a slice of tomato, with sriracha aioli, all served on a house-made brioche. Where to begin is easy…the dish’s name points to its star, the porchetta. It was crispy, a touch of saltiness and a smoky flavor for the ages. While the porchetta was the star of the show, the supporting cast performed just as admirably. The egg and cheese were fantastic, rich, creamy and the sandwich would have been a winner stopping with these three traditional ingredients, but let’s add some heat, not one type, but two. The sriracha aioli and spicy kimchi both kicked this sandwich to the hall of fame, and then the tomato added a sweet complement. In case it did not come across, the Meraki Porchetta alone, is worth the trip. A solid 10++ 

The Coffee Rubbed Burger was very good, a nice sized patty that was joined inside a brioche by bacon, tomato, Swiss cheese, Meraki pickle, crunchy shallot, lettuce, and mayo. The burger was mild in flavor and tightly packed. The kitchen did a great job of getting a good sear on the exterior, but it was cooked a little more than my requested medium rare. Now onto the other ingredients, which added the required balance to the burger, and that was the key to this burger, balance. Meraki really knows how to add a creamy element to its sandwiches, in this case the melted Swiss cheese and mayo. The cheese added almost a Gruyere nuttiness and the mayo was a wonderful smoothing element. Different from the other two sandwiches, the burger avoided spice, adding just a little tang from the pickle. The lettuce was a good hearty variety, which I appreciated, and the sweet tomato was a welcome addition. I would give this burger a solid 7.  

Nestled next to the burger was a small serving of the Apple Beet Salad. While I am usually looking for some great fries with my burger, I figured what the heck and tasted, and I am glad I did. These were fantastic, tender, and more importantly, sweet as sugar. This salad was another 10.

The last sandwich was the Korean Chicken Sandwich with Gochujang BBQ sauce, avocado, kimchi, lettuce, sriracha aioli and served on a Ciabatta. The flavors in the sandwich were over the top bold and flavorful, the BBQ sauce was superb and with the kimchi and the sriracha aioli, created a long-tailed spice from each bite. Sadly, the chicken was very overcooked, chewy to the point of difficult to eat and there was a scant amount of avocado, which would have tempered the spiciness. I can only give this sandwich a 5 (easily elevated to an 8-9 if the chicken was more tender), but willing to give it another chance in the future.

Given the experience with the apples and beets, I was absolutely going to taste the Soba Noodles that accompanied the chicken. Wow, these were over the top. Another 10 for this side dish.

Overall, I was very impressed with Meraki. The Meraki Porchetta was perfection, the sides were incredible, when the Korean chicken is cooked properly, it would be in the same category as the porchetta, and the balance of the burger was spot on. I kick myself for not buying a bunch of the sides to take home to enjoy. Discovering Meraki in the countryside of Litchfield County was a true find and a hidden gem.