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Ernie’s Pizza in New Haven: Three Meats, Zero Regrets

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I guess after making pizza for over fifty years, it comes as no surprise that one of the best pizzas in the greater New Haven area, as well as one of the best pizzas in CT, is made by Pasqual (Pat) DeRiso at Ernie’s Pizza. Pat is the second-generation owner of Ernie’s, which was started by his father and mother, Ernesto (Ernie) and Jennie De Riso, in 1971. Pat purchased the business in 1989 and now continues the family tradition, personally crafting every single pizza that comes out of the oven.

Located on Whalley Avenue, a few blocks south of Exit 59 of Route 15 (let others argue whether it is the Merritt or Wilbur Cross), Ernie’s is housed in a modest, standalone building marked only by a simple red and white sign that reads “Ernie’s Pizzeria Specializing in Pizza Since 1971.” Specializing…no truer words have ever been posted.

Ernie’s doesn’t always receive the same love and attention from New Haven pizza aficionados, perhaps due to its location, four miles (about 20 minutes) north of Wooster Street. I will state, without reservation, without a second thought, without even a moment’s hesitation: Ernie’s serves some of the most spectacular pizza you will ever enjoy.

With ample off-street parking, guests enter a single dining space that feels both welcoming and nostalgic. The room features ten booths that each seat four, a few cozy booths for two, and about twenty additional seats at standalone tables. Adorning the walls are pizza caricatures, a pizza peel commemorating Ernie’s 45th anniversary, and a photo dating back some 50+ years. At the center of the room is “Pizza Central,” where Pat stands as the centerpiece. From this vantage point, he lovingly stretches the dough, ladles on the sauce, spreads the grated cheese, and adds the requested toppings with care and precision. During my visit, I watched Pat craft pie after pie, each one made with focused attention and heartfelt pride. There’s no assembly-line feel, every pizza is a personal reflection of Pat’s dedication.

Even as a one-man pizza-making operation, Pat still finds the time to greet and chat with nearly every customer, whether at their table or picking up their order. He asks about families, shares a few laughs, and trades stories, many with regulars who’ve been coming to Ernie’s for years. When I asked Pat if he knew all his customers, he offered a sheepish smile and simply said, “I have a loyal following.” Even on my very first visit, Pat took time to visit my table, check in, and share a bit of Ernie’s history. We talked about his passion for quality, his commitment to making every pie meet his high standards, and what the future might hold. From a customer’s point of view, my visit was like hanging out at a friend’s house, catching up, shooting the breeze and having some great slices.

On to the pies.

Ernie’s offers three pizza sizes: a small (12”), a medium (16”), and a large (20”). I opted for the medium, split between meatball on one side and both sausage and pepperoni on the other side. Adding meatballs was a slight departure from my usual order, but my pre-visit research turned up one consistent note, Ernie’s meatballs were supposedly delicious. I had to find out for myself.

The pie was delivered by one of the servers, and it looked tremendous. The edges were slightly charred, just enough to suggest a well-fired bake. There was a generous layer of cheese, and I was required to look closely to distinguish between the two different toppings’ sides. The generous amounts of toppings also gave the first indication that there would be a good flop when I attempted to lift the first few slices.

The first sample was a quick taste of the crust. It had a mild flavor, a medium crunch on the outside, and a slightly soft interior. I next grabbed a sausage round. Pat uses Lamberti sweet sausage, which he first bakes and then thickly slices. As a longtime fan of Lamberti, I wasn’t surprised to find that the sausage slices were excellent, they were juicy, savory, and perfectly cooked. Then a taste of the pepperoni, it was crispy along the edge with a medium-level heat, and offered just the right amount of kick. They were also delicious. Finally, the big test, the meatball. Would it live up to my research? Absolutely. These house-made chunks of meatballs were moist, flavorful, and packed with a rich, beefy punch. They actually exceeded my expectations. The meats were a perfect 3-for-3. Next, I checked the underside of the crust, and Pat absolutely nailed it. It had that ideal medium-dark tan, signaling a perfectly balanced bake. As I pulled up the first slice, the melted cheese gave that beautiful, long, thin stretch, a classic sign of a well-made pie.

As expected, the slices were a bit tricky to lift, but my persistence paid off. If needed, plastic forks and knives are provided.)

The first bite of the meatball side was pure heaven, so much flavor and balance. The combination of crust, sauce, cheese and meat was nothing short of spectacular. I forced myself to slow down and savor every bite. It was a challenge, simply because you wanted more. Then came the sausage-and-pepperoni side, and it delivered just as brilliantly. The saltiness of the two meats, the creamy melt of the cheese, and the brightness of the tomato sauce created a rich, satisfying harmony. Curious about his sauce, I asked Pat, and he shared that it’s made simply from crushed tomatoes and seasoning, uncooked before hitting the stretched dough. That tomato freshness came through in every bite, giving the pizza the brightness to complement the cheese and meats.

Overall, I loved Ernie’s and is a pizzeria that should not be missed. The atmosphere and the pizza are great and then there is the owner and premier pizzaiola, Pat, who makes every visit special for every guest.

1279 Whalley Ave.

New Haven, CT 06515

(203) 387-3362

John’s Cafe – Serving Woodbury for 25 Years

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Has there ever been a place where you constantly drive by without a second thought. You think the sign is cute, you tell yourself you will go at some point, and you never do. Suddenly, people mention the place in conversation, twice, three times in the same week, you ask around and everyone loves it. You finally remember to look on-line, decide to go and look to make a reservation but do not see a “reservations” tab on their website. You finally do what was popular 20 years ago, you pick up the phone, call and ask if they accept reservations and are surprised when they say, “of course.” And then you go and enjoy a great meal.

So was my experience at John’s Café in Waterbury.

John’s Café is located on Route 67 just east of where it meets Route 64. With its non-descript sign over the door, John’s Café looks like it would serve coffee, pastries and breakfast, but enter and the aromas of homestyle Italian cuisine will tell you otherwise. Overseeing the kitchen for close to 25 years is Chef / Owner Dennis DeBelllis.

The interior is New England meets Italy, maintaining that Yankee image, but with white linen tablecloths topped with white paper. The water glasses were already filled when we sat, and the menu described numerous options, ranging from house-made pastas to chops, fish, steaks and salads. Our server approached and recited the daily specials (a la Italian Shrimp and Grits) and ended with, “everything is made to order so it you want to add to or take something away from one of the dishes, just let me know.” The “we are here to please” attitude was refreshing.

It was a Monday evening and as I looked at the other tables, it felt that the guests were the Monday regulars, they all seemed to be in their assigned table, enjoying their normal Monday fare. The atmosphere was home-style, friendly, family, small town.

As we looked over the menu and heard that the pastas were made on-premises we decided to focus on that part of the menu. We ordered a couple of Caesar salads to begin, plus the “Sunday Gravy,” Potato gnocchi alla Vodka and the Chicken Parmesan that is served with rigatoni alla Vodka. Any restaurant that serves alla Vodka as the side to the Parm is OK in my book.

As we waited for our salads, the server brought a plate of bread and ciabatta and she told us, “I asked for the humus a couple of times and I think we are out, so I brought some red sauce.” Ten minutes later the humus joined the table. The bread and ciabatta were good, and I liked the red sauce for dipping.

Two of us split a “Caesar Romaine, Grilled Garlic Croutons, Creamy Parmesan Dressing, White Anchovies” ($12) and it was very good. The Romaine was topped with a Parmesan crisp, and since I asked for the anchovy on the side, I sliced and diced these two additions into the salad. The romaine was crispy, fresh and the dressing was sparingly applied and offered a nice flavor. It was a very good way to start the meal. I give the Caesar salad a 7.

The table decided to share the ““Sunday Gravy” Rigatoni Pasta, with a Meatball and Italian Sausage Ragú” ($26). The bowl of house-made pasta was perfectly prepared to al dente and was covered in a delicious red sauce, a half a dozen golf ball sized meatballs (the menu stated singular, but they actual dish included many more) and loads of sausage slices. The pasta delivered just the right amount of give, not too soft, not too hard, the meatballs were firm, moist and offered great beefiness and the sausage slices added just a touch of spice and fennel. Everyone at the table really enjoyed this dish and I give it a solid 8.5.

The other “pasta” we ordered was the “Potato Gnocchi Alla Vodka With Whipped Ricotta and Basil” ($25). I usually gravitate to ricotta gnocchi, so I started with a little bias, but this dish changed my outlook, it was delicious. Another large bowl of perfectly prepared 2-inch cylindrical gnocchi were soft and subtle, and when combined with the Vodka sauce delivered deep, rich flavors. With the addition of the ricotta to any forkful and you enjoy a totally different profile, with the light, cooling cheese component. I really liked this presentation and another 8.5.

Lastly, I decided to give the “Chicken Parmesan With Rigatoni Alla Vodka” ($26) a taste. With the two pastas setting a very high bar, I was a little nervous, but the chef delivered another great dish. The cutlet was quite large, filled the entire plate with pieces of rigatoni peaking around the edges from under the cutlet. The crispy chicken was first topped with John’s red sauce and then melted cheese. Served piping hot, I carefully cut a piece from the edge, let cool just a bit and carefully tasted. The crunch was great, the flavor great, the sauce delicious and the cheese stringy to the plate. It was delicious. The red sauce and cheese were in perfect balance. I give the chicken parm a solid 8.5.

On a subsequent visit, I ordered the Grilled Pork Chop with scalloped potatoes, bacon-onion jam, green beans, carrots, and a few dollops of maple-bourbon whole-grain mustard. Let’s just say that you need to have a hearty appetite to finish this two bone chop. It was perfectly cooke to medium rare, a perfect way to serve pork. The best way to enjoy was to combine the bacon-onion jam with a little of the mustard and place atop a good slice of the meat. The flavors played great together. Not to be overshadowed by the chop, the potatoes were also great.

Service was professional with that small town feel. The kitchen prepared three, great, house-made Italian classics. The pasta was excellent, and gnocchi were delicious, and then the sauces were great. The staff worked as a team during our dinner, when one was busy, another seamlessly filled in to ensure the guests enjoyed the evening. Some may feel the pace was slow, we were having such great conversation, we enjoyed the timing, and most importantly every dish was served piping hot, all came directly to the table from the pan.

Overall, John’s Café was great. From that small town, welcoming feel to the great food. As we were leaving, our serving told us to make sure we returned to try the pork chop, she held her thumb and forefinger two inches apart and told me “It’s this thick.” I will definitely return to John’s Café to try the pork chop and maybe have a few other Italian specialties.

693 Main St S.

Woodbury, CT 06798

(203) 263-0188

johnscafe.com

Modern Pizza (New Haven) – Pepperoni Pizza Killing It

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Over the past months, I’ve been on a quest to find the best pizza in the Valley, exploring Waterbury and its neighboring towns. Now, it feels like the right time to turn my attention to what many consider the epicenter of Connecticut pizza: New Haven. And when you arrive, you’re met with no shortage of options to explore.

When a couple of buddies and I were scheduling a pizza lunch, we decided to sidestep the potential chaos of Wooster Street and headed over a few blocks to Modern Apizza on State Street. Once you manage to find parking, be prepared to wait, and count yourself lucky if you have that lucky timing of an immediate opening. We arrived just after noon and, to our good fortune, a booth was open in the back room. We took it as a sign of good things to come. As soon as our server arrived, we ordered a couple of bottles of Foxon Park, Kola and Root Beer, then got down to topping talk. We kept it semi-classic: one pie fully loaded with pepperoni and the other topped with sausage and onion.

When the pies arrived, they looked spot-on, each boasting that signature New Haven-style char along the edges. Interestingly, the char was concentrated on just one side of each pie, suggesting the kitchen skipped the usual spin during baking. Both pizzas had a generous layer of cheese, perfectly melted. The pepperoni pie was especially impressive, absolutely loaded with slices that stretched right to the crust, a definite plus. The sausage and onion pie, however, was less generous, with a noticeable gap near the edges that felt like a missed opportunity for more flavor and balance.

I checked the underside of both pies, and the kitchen had done an excellent job; each crust was an even light tan with just a few charred spots, exactly what you’d hope for. With preparation and appearance checked off, it was time to dig in.

A quick pull of crust and it was delicious, not too dense, not too airy and just a hint of flavor. Onto the pepperoni, and these half-dollar sized circles were fantastic, just a touch of crispiness on the edges and a nice level of spiciness. The sausage, unfortunately, was not in the same category. I found the chunks to be a touch dense, and while it had nice fennel backnotes, it was not a standout in my opinion.

Now that the pizzas had cooled slightly, I pulled a sausage and onion slice and was happy to see long, stretchy strands of cheese still clinging to the base, a very good sign. The crust, sauce, and cheese were all excellent, but the sausage was in the back seat, too bland, and the onions were a more dominant contributor. Overall, I can only give this side a 7.5; the toppings were not to my liking.

The pepperoni, on the other hand, was a clear standout. Everything was in perfect balance, the crust was crispy, yet subtle, the sauce slightly sweet, the cheese rich and creamy, and the pepperoni brought just the right kick of spice and crunch. It hit every note: sweet, spicy, salty, creamy, and crispy. This side easily earned a perfect 10.

Our server was also great; she could not have been more friendly and efficient.

Overall, I completely agree that Modern is in the discussion as one of the best apizzas in New Haven for major components (crust, sauce, cheese, prep) and with that delicious pepperoni, the vibe and the friendly atmosphere, I would highly recommend.

Modern Apizza

874 State St, New Haven, CT 06511

(203) 776-5306

modernapizza.com

il Buco al Mare – Best Restaurant in The Hamptons

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Let’s just say it… il Buco al Mare is the best restaurant in the Hamptons. This is a very strong statement given the number of culinary options, but after numerous visits, I stand by that statement…every visit has been perfect in every aspect. The food is impeccable from the preparation to the plating and most importantly to the flavors, there is perfection in every step. Add to this the vibrant interior space and the relaxing garden out back and this is a spot for a casual shared dinner or a special occasion.

On this last visit, it was a cold June evening, and we braved the low 60s temperature and sat in the garden. The server approached promptly to take drink orders, and we simultaneously asked for the mushroom focaccia, we had to get the evening started.

Over the next two hours, our table enjoyed six incredible dishes.

The focaccia was topped with roasted eggplant, tomato, fresh mozzarella, anchovy, peperoncino and oregano ($25). This is no ordinary focaccia, which is normally cut and served in a basket, but il Buco’s was the love child of focaccia and pizza. It resembles a pizza with extremely puffy edges and a circle of goodness in the center. The crust was delicious, and the toppings were fantastic. I could make a meal of a flight of every focaccia on the menu. A great start for the meal and an easy 10.

We next moved to the main event with a pasta, two entrées and a couple of sides.

For our pasta choice, we opted for the Spaghetti with bottarga, peperoncino, garlic, lemon and parsley ($30). We are big fans of bottarga, a cured fish roe and the combination looked great, and it was. The pasta was cooked perfectly to al dente and the light, citrusy sauce exploded with every bite, plus a little saltiness from the bottarga. Another 10.

The star of the evening was the Smoked Senat chicken with cilantro chermoula, Tokyo turnips, labneh and berbere oil ($46). I consider this dish the best chicken in the Hamptons, in NY, and in America, yes, it is that good. A large, half chicken was carved into four pieces, leg, thigh and a split breast, smoked and roasted to a deep golden hue. The meat absorbed loads of smokiness and remained super moist, and the crispy skin was brilliant. Add a few of the accouterments (I loved the tiny Tokyo turnips) to each bite and experience numerous flavor combinations and textures. I could go on raving about this dish forever. I obviously give this dish a 10+++

The other entrée we ordered was the Skirt steak, chimichurri + sunchokes ($45), which was a nice 8–10-ounce portion, served with a bright and fragrant chimichurri and small halved sunchokes. Skirt steak is very underrated, but it is one of my favorite cuts since it delivers so much flavor. The meat was expertly prepared to our medium-rare / medium request and was full of deep flavors. The chimichurri was bright and fragrant and complemented the richness of the steak perfectly. This dish was an easy 9, it was great but it was sitting next to perfection.

We ordered two sides, the first was the crispy cannellini beans, celery, parsley and lemon ($18). The beans portion was a little smaller than we have received in the past, but the beans were delicious, crispy on the outside and still moist and soft on the interior. I give the cannellini beans a 9 (I wanted more).

Our second side was the Broccolini with lemon and chili ($18). We always ask about the spice level when we see chili and were told it was not that spicy. The spice level was better described as negligible, the earthiness of the large portion of broccolini was outstanding. This dish deserved a 10, which may be a first for me.

Service was even better than impeccable, rare that there was not a single slip, even minor, by any of the staff.

Overall, this was a perfect dinner in a perfect setting with perfect food and perfect service.

231 Main St, Amagansett, NY 11930

Phone: (631) 557-3100

https://ilbuco.com/pages/il-buco-al-mare

Beacon (Sag Harbor) – Very Good, But Pricey and Rushed

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Located just west of downtown Sag Harbor and overlooking the harbor, Beacon offers elevated bar food, in a vibrant setting, with limited seating, both outside under the awning as well as tables inside.

A few items you need to be aware of. First, the prices reflect the location and the fact they are only open seasonally and secondly, there is a strict time limit on tables (with a slight grace period to pay the check) of 90 minutes for a foursome. This is a shared responsibility of the kitchen and guests to accommodate so do not delay in placing your order, and you are lucky if you have time on the clock for dessert.

Our visit included two appetizers for the table and a companion and I shared an entrée. We would have ordered desserts but we ran out of time.

A quick overview of the dishes we enjoyed.

CLASSIC CAESAR SALAD W/ HEARTS OF ROMAINE, ANCHOVY, PARMESAN, GARLIC & CROSTINI ($21) (Above) – This version included whole romaine leaves with a good amount of dressing and a large dusting of grated parmesan. The crouton was one large piece and was a little difficult to maneuver and enjoy. The salad was a little overdressed which was to my liking. This is a large salad and easily shared between 2 people as a normal-sized starter. I give it a 7

TUNA TARTARE* W/ CAPERS, WHOLE GRAIN MUSTARD, CUCUMBER, RED CURRY PASTE & POTATO CHIPS (RAW) ($25) – A medium-sized mound of nicely prepared tuna. Do not be afraid that the menu states red curry paste, it did not increase the spiciness but did add a nice deep element to the dish. The chips were also seasoned and were very good. This size was a little smallish given the other sized dishes. I think others at the table enjoyed it more than I did, but I did like it. I give it a 6

DUROC PORK CHOP MILANESE W/ FRISÉE, ROASTED TOMATOES, CARAMELIZED ONIONS, CREAMY TRUFFLE VINAIGRETTE & SHAVED PARMESAN ($46) – Two of us shared the dish as the pork medallion was enormous. It was pounded super-thin, breaded and fried. It was nicely seasoned and still maintained its flavor. I thought the breading-meat ratio was a little heavy to the breading side and a touch oversalted. The salad that sat atop was very large, full of flavor, and like the Caesar was over-dressed, approaching soggy. I really liked the addition of the roasted tomatoes and caramelized onions to give a different flavor profile. I give the dish an 8.

Overall, I liked Beacon with reservations. Given the high prices and the requirement to rush through the meal, I am somewhat reluctant to return prior to Labor Day, maybe after the summer crowd leaves it will be less of a rush. When I am spending this kind of money in a bar atmosphere, I do not want to inhale my meal or feel I am about to cause an issue. The staff handled everything professionally, I would just like a little less watch the clock pressure.

8 W Water St, Sag Harbor, NY 11963

(631) 725-7088

beaconsagharbor.com

Death by Pizza in Delray Beach – Pizza to Die For

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Death by Pizza…what a way to go!!

I have been very fortunate in my pizza journey. I grew up with New Jersey style, spent a ton of time in NYC eating some of the best New York style, time in DC where Greek style pizza is prevalent, two years in Chicago enjoying thin-crust, stuffed and deep-dish and over 20 years in CT, enjoying New Haven style. The one box that was not checked was Detroit style, and when I started hearing that Death by Pizza in Delray Beach was serving some killer Detroit, it was time for a visit.

The West Delray location is west of nowhere, in a strip mall on West Atlantic west of the FL Turnpike and west of Lyons, for those who know the area. This non-descript storefront has one word on the building, “PIZZA.” Inside there is more than one word…delicious, fantastic, brilliant, unbelievable…just keep going.

They only serve Detroit style, and I am a bit embarrassed to say this was my first foray into Detroit pizza. I have yet another word to describe this pizza, outrageous. Let’s start with what I was served. DBP serves freshly made to order and slices (think Joe’s in the West Village of NYC). I only wanted a couple of slices (should I call them squares?) and they reheated the two I ordered, so these were reheated for those who want to scream “they are burnt.”

The first was the Roni Jabroni (ezzo’s pepperoni cups, mozzarella & sweet sauce). The crust was great, the sauce had a little spice to it and the ‘roni were cupped, crispy and fantastic. This was a perfect 10.

I also wanted to go out of my normal comfort zone and ordered a square of Mr. White (whipped ricotta, mozzarella & basil pesto). Same delicious crust with the topping reminiscent of the insides of a great ravioli plus the pesto added another great flavor. Another 10.

Overall, I was a little nervous as I drove and entered, but when I took my first bite, I was sold that Detroit style pizza deserves all the accolades it receives. And Death by Pizza deserves all the accolades it receives.

DOWNTOWN DELRAY (Take out only)  528 NE 2nd St. Delray Beach, FL 33483 (561) 666-9111  WEST DELRAY (Dine-in and take out) 15065 FL-7 BAY 400 Delray Beach, FL 33446 (561) 666-8976  
Death by Pizza

Gordon Ramsay Burger (Las Vegas) – What a Disaster

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Who am I to take shots at the restaurant of a world renown chef who has earned 17 Michelin stars?

I am almost embarrassed by writing a review of a restaurant that represents the TV personality who has entertained me for years, but when that restaurant totally performs multiple nose-plants and tarnishes the renown chef’s name and reputation, someone needs to throw the BS flag.

I have watched so many different series by Chef Ramsay, and my visit to Ramsay Burger in Las Vegas was more watching the first 10 minutes of Kitchen Nightmare then his offering a Head Chef position to an up-and-coming super-talent. It was a complete and utter disaster, there is no way that Chef Ramsay would like my experience.

From start to finish, there was barely a single touchpoint where Ramsay should be proud.

After I was seated, I was handed a menu with no prices. When I asked the server, she blamed the printer, but they were expecting the new menus the “end of the week,” yet it was a Thursday evening. I later found out that the server was supposed to tell the customer about a QR code to take you to the on-line menu, but mine did not know this. I was eventually told by the manager, clicked to the website and even the website did not have the prices (hard to blame the printer on this).

So much for the customer to menu interface.

I ordered the Backyard Burger, which is served with American cheese, butter lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, and red onion. I ordered mine medium-rare without the onion. I also asked if I could have 50-50 fries and onion rings. After I was told a resounding “No,” I asked for the fries and then asked for a separate order of onion rings. Again, there was a resounding “no” from the server. Time for a manger visit, who apologized for the menus and told me he would make the French fries and onion rings happen.

When the burger arrived, it was overcooked, the fries were a measly portion, and the onion rings were cold and hard. (As an aside they did place the raw red onion on the burger). I asked for a re-fire. The server removed the rings and burger but left the fries. About 10 minutes later they brought a new order of rings, but no burger. The rings were piping hot but not very good, way too much breading. I ate one and decided these were not worth the effort.

The burger finally arrived, and I cut in half, again way overcooked but I was not asking for #3, so I took a deep breath and took a bite. The burger was absolutely tasteless, no seasoning and while the menu says they are cooked over wood to add flavor, mine had none. The tomatoes were oldish. I asked for fresh fries so I could have what I ordered in a single seating. I ate half the burger, a few fries and called it a night.

As I waited for the check, I can almost hear Chef Ramsay yell “shut it down.” Two tries at a simple burger, fries and onions rings, and each was poorly executed.

My review:

  • no prices on the menu, they tell you to go to the website for the prices and none there as well
  • two burgers, neither cooked close to requested doneness,
  • the burgers were completely tasteless patties
  • the tomatoes were aged,
  • they served the raw onion on the burger when it was ordered without the onion
  • the onion rings were first served cold and hard and, when hot, they were not very good.
  • the manager tried hard with a re-fire; the second round was just as bad, he was at the mercy of a completely unfocused kitchen.

I give (out of 10):

  • Burger – 1
  • Fries – 2
  • Onion rings – 1
  • Service – A nice try
  • Manager – at the mercy of a poorly executing kitchen
  • Kitchen – send them back to cooking school

Domenic’s Pizza in Boynton Beach – Stick with the Pepperoni

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The Boynton Beach and Delray Beach areas have a large population of transplants and Snowbirds from the Northeast and Midwest, and I assumed that there would be a lot of great pizza choices. While I have found a few that are noteworthy, some try hard with good intentions, but cannot get the full experience to “delicious.”

After a few people recommended Domenic’s on North Congress in Boynton Beach, FL, it finally got to the top of my go-to list and I ventured for a quick lunch. Upon entering I approached the front counter and ordered a slice of pepperoni and a slice of sausage. I waited in the dining area, only one other table was occupied.

When the plate arrived, all I could do was stare. Neither side looked like they had spent any time in the oven, there was no color, no visible crispiness and the sausage and pepperoni were haphazardly thrown on the slice, care was not a word I would use. To ensure they were actually hot, I touched the tops of the meats, they were heated, but I would not categorize them as “hot.”

I first tasted the pepperoni, and I was impressed, a good level of spice and the pieces that dangled over the edge had a little crispiness, but no cupping of any of the ‘roni. I next tasted one of the sausage slices (which is served in pre-cooked rounds versus chunks) and it had no flavor, no texture, no nuthin’ other than occupying space, and the consistency was more emulsified bologna versus sausage.

The crust had a nice crunch, good flavor, and was nicely prepped. The sauce had a little spiciness, and you could also taste a good amount of oregano. The cheese was pretty basic cheese, with that little tang screaming that it was pre-shredded and processed.

Overall, the pepperoni slice was pretty good, all the spices played well together, and the crunch from the crust added some fun to the eating. The sausage slice on the other hand was pretty bad. After two bites I decided to throw the white flag and just remove the sausage, it was detracting versus adding to the enjoyment. The now-plain slice was better with a little spiciness from the sauce, but I was still not a fan of the cheese.

I will give the pepperoni slice a 7.2 and the sausage slice a 4, and after removing the sausage, the plain slice receives a 6.0. The sauce, dough and pepperoni were very good, but the cheese was pedestrian and the sausage was a complete wash-out.

1790 N Congress Ave, Boynton Beach, FL 33426

(561) 734-3033

dominicspizzapasta.com

Experience Artisan Pizza at Mister 01 in Boynton Beach

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With the opening of the new Whole Foods on the northeast corner of Hagen Ranch and Boynton Beach, the other storefronts are beginning to open. One of these stores is Mister 01. This location is one of 22 opened or planned Mister 01 pizzerias in Florida, with another two in the Atlanta metro area and five in Texas. The brainchild of Chef Renato Viola, Mister 01 delivers artisanal pizza, made mostly from ingredients that are either locally sourced or imported from Italy. Viola started his pizza apprenticeship at the age of eleven and won numerous awards in Italy and Europe. After settling in Miami Beach (using a 01 Visa category), Viola opened his first pizza restaurant and has been expanding rapidly.

The location in Boynton Beach is furnished with several tables sitting alongside the long counter. The menu includes pizzas, calzones, burrata plates and salads. The pizza can be ordered in one of two sizes, a personal 8” and a larger 13”. As a solo diner, I ordered an 8” with pepperoni and sausage (half-half not an option). In hindsight, I should have ordered the 13”, not thinking that an 8” pizza can fit on a sheet of paper. When it was delivered, I knew it was a snack versus a meal, but hey a great snack is better than a lousy meal.

The crust was super paper thin and crispy, a true cracker crust. It was topped with just a touch of sauce and cheese and topped with a good amount of ‘roni and less than desired sausage. The flavors were great. I really liked the sausage/cheese/sauce combination, but the sausage took a backseat to all these vibrant flavors. The sauce was a good complement to the meats. After eating the entire pizza, I kicked myself again for not ordering a larger version, but this will not be my last trip to Mister 01.

Overall, I give the pizza I ate at Mister 01 a good solid 8.5.

7381 Boynton Beach Blvd Suite #305

Boynton Beach, FL 33437

352-722-0812

Boynton Beach

Is Christos Restaurant Worth the Hype? Pizza Review Inside

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I finally made it to Christos Restaurant & Bar in Wallingford, the third pizzeria of Connecticut’s self-proclaimed Three Kings of Pizza. While the three brother-owners may share common DNA, the pizzas at each show a very different view of what pizza should entail.

When I arrived, I was pleased to see that Christos offers a fair amount of parking in its own parking lot. To avoid the usual snaking lines out the door, I timed my visit to coincide with the less crowded lunchtime. The interior is divided into three rooms, the pick-up / waiting area, the dining room and the bar. In total, there are 60-65 table seats for guests plus another ten chairs at the bar. The décor consists of natural woods and colors, and it is a very relaxing environment, whether seated at a table or in one of the booths.

The menu offers more than its legendary pizzas, including shareables, burgers, burritos, sandwiches, rice bowls and pastas, quite an eclectic array of options. But I was laser-focused on the pizza.

I ordered a small pie, half with sausage and the other half with pepperoni.

When the pizza arrived, the first thing I noticed was the high level of char. Not only was the crust overly charred in places, more than half of the cupped pepperoni circles were significantly darkened by the hot, wood-fired oven. The other item I noticed was the abundance of toppings, a lot of sauce and cheese, plus decent portions of pepperoni and sausage.

Pizzerias have several choices for the type of sausage they use, from crumbled to sliced to chunks, and I was pleased that Christo chose larger chunks; in my opinion, chunks give the best flavor and texture. I first removed and tried a piece of the sausage, and it was delicious, with noticeable fennel back notes. I next tasted one of the pepperoni slices and it delivered a nice level of spiciness. Both these meats were excellent, and I highly recommend. I next pulled a little smidgen of crust from the pie, and while several areas were heavily charred, the crust was really tasty.

After the pie cooled a bit (a big thank you to the server), I pulled a sausage slice away from the pie to check the underside, expecting more char to mimic the upper crust. I was surprised that it was dark tan color with minimal char marks. As I looked further towards the interior tip, I saw the unfortunate result of too much sauce and cheese, the crispness disappeared; there was no way it was going to withstand a lift and eat.

As much as I tried, it was impossible to lift (even by flopping the tip over), so it was onto plan B, cutting with my knife and fork. While the crust in the center was a little soggy, it still delivered great flavor, but there was a little too much sauce for my taste. With bite #2, I could now carefully lift the slice. While the sausage was able to handle the level of sauciness, the cheese took a serious back seat to the other two toppings. But my Bite #3 litmus test awaited, and by this time the slice had properly cooled. Result…the flavors melded much better and since we moved towards the outer crust the overall balance of the toppings was in better unison. It was a pretty good sausage slice. If I were to allocate the ingredients, I would say the sauce was sauce (50%), sausage (25%), cheese (15%) and the crust (10%), much too sauce-leaning.

Onto the other half. I was impressed with the cupping of the pepperoni (other than those that were burnt) and there was just a smidgen of oil in each. Even with the lighter weight of the pepperoni, it was impossible to lift the slice, and again I resorted to the fork and knife for bite #1. I liked the flavor balance with the spiciness of the pepperoni. The pepperoni side was better since the thin slices of pepperoni were bolder than the sausage. While the distribution of ingredients was similar to the sausage side, the pepperoni’s spiciness definitely created a more balanced taste; sauce (40%), sausage (35%), cheese (15%) and the crust (10%), better but still a little too sauce focused.

Overall, the basic tenets of the pizza at Christos were amazing, the crust, sauce, toppings were all delicious. While the kitchen tried to balance the crispiness of the crust and the charred edges with the level of toppings, they got a little ahead of themselves with too much sauce in the center of the pie. They also might have placed the pizza on the wrong spot in the oven (where a pizza was recently removed), which did not allow the crust to crisp properly in the center.

With the first visits to Connecticut’s self-proclaimed Three Kings of Pizza in the record book, I would rank them Luna (a 9.3), Christos (an 8.4), and Fuoco (a 7.5). 

Christos Restaurant & Bar

552 North Colony Rd

Wallingford CT 06492

203-294-4626

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