Why Papa’s Pizza is a Must-Visit in Milford

Posted on May 29, 2025 by jfoodeats

I love discovering places that get very little fanfare, are the heart and soul of the owner(s), and absolutely kill it. Papa’s Pizza in Milford is one of those places and is the epitome of a hole in the wall on the side of the road that deserves recognition for some killer pizza.

The original Papa’s Pizza is located closer to Walnut Beach versus downtown Milford (where Papa’s Pizza II is located), and I was getting a little nervous as the soccer ball at the end of the purple line on Waze was quickly approaching, and there was no sign of Papa’s. On my right there was a bakery, a breakfast joint and a parking lot. As I slowed to a crawl and stared into the lot (my apologies again to the people in the car behind me), the far section of the white building had two red words above a small window, “Papa’s Pizza.” Success. I pulled into a parking spot and slowly walked to the window. Was I in the right place…this was literally a hole in the wall on the side of a nondescript white building at the end of a small parking lot. When I peered through the open window, I saw no one on the other side. Fortunately, there was a bell on the counter and immediately after I rang, someone came from the back room to take my order.

“Can I have a small pie, half pepperoni, half sausage?” The reply, “Give me fifteen.” Game on.

Locals know there are two Papa’s Pizzas in Milford. The original on Naugatuck Avenue (which I visited) opened in 1986, and Papa’s Pizza II, on Bridgeport Ave. opened twenty-two years later in 2008. Papa’s Pizza is overseen by Russ Pietrini, Dylan Bruno, Jamie Cavallo and named after Russ’ grandfather, Peter Lasse (a.k.a. Papa). If the name Lasse sounds familiar, it should. Papa Lasse and his wife Mabel opened The Maples, a restaurant on Naugatuck Avenue, in the 1940s (sold in 1959 and renamed). In addition to the two Papa Pizzas, the third generation oversees Lasse’s restaurant, which has been a landmark since 1964.

While Papa’s focuses on pizza, there are a few other options. The menu is taped to another closed window and offers pasta options (Naugatuck location only), one garden salad and five “cone” grinders, whatever they are. They specialize in New Haven Pizza, with more than a dozen different toppings, or you can choose from one of twenty-five pre-determined combinations. (Disclaimer – The newest addition is A ‘Pizza Di Jeff, and I had absolutely nothing to do with it, although it sounds pretty good.)

As I waited in my car (there are no tables outside other than a waiting bench for 3-4 people), and no nuthin’ on the inside), several regulars pulled into the lot and owner yelled “Hey Johnnie, here’s your order,” followed by a “thank you” and a hand-off, this was definitely a place where people are loyal and return on a regular basis. Almost to the second, my pie was ready in fifteen minutes, nestled in a to-go box and, like the others, handed through the window with a warm “thank you.” With no place to sit, I was left to my own devices to photo and eat…it was not the first time the hood of my car doubled as a dining table.

I opened the box, and my lips started to extend into a smile, this pie looked really good. The balance of ingredients looked perfect, the charring along the edge was just the right level and there were bubbles in the dough-edges; it should have a nice, soft feel. Checking the underside, the kitchen cooked it to perfection, just a few light char-spots. I grabbed a bit of sausage and tasted; it was a 10, still moist, fennel-accented with a little spice (I later discovered it was Lamberti’s Italian sweet sausage from New Haven). Next, a quick taste of the pepperoni and like the sausage, it was delicious, a medium level of spiciness and just a tad of crispiness. It was still too hot to try a full bite, so I waited…and it was almost excruciating.

I finally took a deep breath, and I lifted a slice of the pepperoni side…the crust held, no flop. And then a little bite from the tip to save the roof of my mouth. Wow!!! The flavors were unbelievable. Now a full bite and the cheese stretched, the sauce and the ‘ronis held pat and it was delicious. Everything worked together, the crispy crust, the rich tomatoes, the creaminess of the cheese and the spiciness of the pepperoni. It was close to perfection. My smile grew wider. Could the sausage side compete? The really good news was that it was even better since the sausage was some of the best around. This slice was in Zuppardi’s league as one of the best sausage slices in CT. My smile was in competition with the Cheshire Cat, ear to ear. This is what Connecticut pizza is all about…sheer perfection.

Finding that off-the-beaten-path perfection has become an obsession. These unheralded chefs know how to cook, know how to satisfy loyal and new customers and do so for the sheer pleasure of their love of the food adventure. When I find a place like Papa’s Pizza, enjoy some of the best pizza in CT, read about the three generations of food people, I must tell everyone who would never stop if they drove by Papa’s…YOU MUST STOP!!!

And that is what CTbites is all about.

Papa’s Pizza 258 Naugatuck Ave, Milford (203) 874-0215

Papa’s Pizza II 2005 Bridgeport Ave, Milford (203) 283-5433

http://www.papaspizzaonline.com

Discover Crust Issues: Creative Pizza Styles in Norwalk

Posted on May 23, 2025 by jfoodeats

I have been a fan of John Nealon for years. As one of the original co-founders of Fortina, he brought one of my all-time pizzas to the forefront, the Luigi Bianco, now The LB. Fast forward ten years and several stops in between, John and his wife, Morgan, embarked on creating a newly devised structure to the mega-century old pizza. While Nutmeggers are blessed with tons of options to enjoy perfect styles of pizza, on my visit to Crust Issues on Connecticut Ave in Norwalk, I was introduced to a slightly different version, one that grabs elements from Neelon’s past, as well as non-apizza styles.

If you blink you will miss the parking area for Crust Issues on Connecticut Avenue in Norwalk, CT. On a cloudy afternoon I found myself with a little time and was able to venture to Crust Issues to see and taste for myself John’s vision. The interior is somewhat unique, there is a self-service mini-bar with cocktails, sodas and water and a counter to order. The menu includes a few smaller dishes, from meatballs, garlic knots, sandwiches and salads, a couple of entrees, and sandwiches and then the main event…the pizza.

On my visit I ordered a half-pepperoni and half sausage, grabbed a bottle of water and sat at a table watching one of two extra-large TVs.

The pizza arrived nestled in a rectangular rimmed sheet pan. The construction was sorta a combination of pan, Detroit, and thin, and it stretched completely to the edges of the pan. The first noticeable visual were the edges, they had significant charring, not from charred crust but charred cheese. I was not sure how this was going to play with the other flavors. Sitting atop the crust was the sauce, cheese and then my toppings. The next item I noticed was the shapes of both the sausage and pepperoni. The were quarter-circles, I have never seen this ever. The last item I noticed was the thickness of the crust. It was about ¼” thick and extremely rigid, more a crunchy toast versus a pizza crust.

The first order of business was the meats. I tasted a piece of the sausage, and it was great, next, a piece of the pepperoni and again, great. As I lifted one of the corner pieces to check the bottom, I saw another surprise; some of the cheese had seeped under the crust and melted along the bottom edge and the cheese-charring was very present along the bottom edge. But the real test is in the eating. I grabbed a slice from the pepperoni side, and it was fantastic. The flavors were in perfect balance, a little spiciness in the sauce, creaminess in the cheese and then a little more kick from the pepperoni. Could the sausage side compare? Yes it could; the sausage slice was equal in every aspect of the flavor, spiciness and balance. The toppings were perfect in every way.

Now my take on the crust, and I agree with the name of the restaurant. I had crust issues. I was not a fan of this attempt to create a new type of crust, it was too hard for my taste and definitely detracted from the greatness on top. Others may really like the extra-crispiness, but not for me as much.

Overall, I loved Crust Issues, the flavors and balance were perfect, just not a fan of the over-crunchiness of the crust. I give the toppings a 10, but the harshness of the crust brings the overall score to a 9.0, still pretty freakin’ great.

60 Connecticut Avenue, Norwalk

203.939.7171, Instagram: @crustissues203

Why Luna’s Pizza is a Must-Try in Connecticut

Posted on December 18, 2024 by jfoodeats

All pizza enthusiasts in this part of Connecticut know the Three Kings of Pizza, three brothers who each own one of the most highly-regarded pizzerias stretching from Wallingford to Cheshire to Naugatuck. A couple of months ago I visited Fuoco in Cheshire and scheduling a visit to one of the other places has been on my to-do list. I finally made it to Luna in Naugatuck, and I am extremely glad I did.

Like many of its pizza-brethren in this part of CT, Luna is situated in a residential neighborhood, just off northbound exit 28 (Prospect Street) of Interstate 8. While there are numerous Luna Pizzas in CT, the others have no association with this location nor the three brothers. When you enter the non-descript building you immediately understand that Luna caters to the takeaway crowd, the teeny dining area offers only four small tables, two high-tops that each seat four and another two regular height tables for another two guests each. Most of the space is dedicated to the pre-made 250 pizza boxes and the 20-foot-long pile of split wood ready to enter the wood-fired oven. There is also one refrigerator that carries an array of 1-liter bottles of Foxon Park sodas, and a few bottles of Poland Springs hidden on the bottom, next to a couple of pre-cut slices of dessert.

While the menu includes salads, burgers, pasta, a calzone, wings and a few head-scratching options, I was there for the pizza.

I ordered a 12” pie, half sausage and half pepperoni, and wandered to an empty table to wait. The server brought the pizza, and I was immediately impressed. The edges had a minor level of char, not too much, not too little. There was minimal, if any, poofiness to the edges, just a few bubbles, indicating a crispy dough. There was a good amount of toppings (more condensed on the pepperoni side) and the balance among cheese, sauce and meats looked pretty good, and I was grateful that the sausage was chunks, my favorite. I next pulled a slice from the pie to check the underside. There were dots of char intermingled in a nicely tanned bottom. The was just a little flop at the point of the slice, maybe just a tad too much. So far I was very impressed.

Onto the taste test.

Per my tradition, I started with a slice from the sausage half. I first peeled a little dollop of sausage from the pie, always looking for the fennel backnotes that I love. Excellent sausage, the sausage had the right amount of fennel and the time in the oven maintained a good juiciness without drying out the meat. The first slice-bite was very good, and the balance and flavors were excellent. I waited for it to cool slightly for bite #2. Bite #2 was even better, and we finally approached my real litmus test…bite #3, when the pie has cooled just enough, and the flavors are fully melded. And it was pretty close to perfect. The three major components combined nicely and there was just a hint of flavor from the dough.

Now onto the pepperoni side. Again, first a taste of pepperoni by itself. There was a good crunchiness and then the spice kicked in and grew. There was a bit of a time lag before it peaked. I would call it a 4 out of 10 level of spiciness and there was a very long tail. A bite of the entire slice, which was already at the right temperature, confirmed my foreshadowing that this would also be a great slice, and it was. The balance of the sauce, cheese and pepperoni was even better than the sausage side with the added kick from the pepperoni.

After I savored a few more slices, it was time to stop and reflect. If there was one slight negative to the pie, it would be the dough, I would have liked a little more flavor. Other than that, Luna is a solid 9.2.

I have been pretty lucky finding some great New Haven-style pies in Waterbury and its surrounding suburbs, and Luna is definitely in the elite class of New Haven style in this neck of the woods.

Luna Wood Fired Pizza

384 North Main Street

Naugatuck, CT 06770

Luna Woodfired Pizza

Review: Coal-Fired Apizza at Fuoco in Cheshire

Posted on December 13, 2024 by jfoodeats

In my continued search for worthy off-the-beaten-path haunts in “the Valley” I kept seeing a few great reviews of yet another pizza place just southeast of Waterbury, Fuoco in Cheshire. Between the enormous billboard on the interstate touted by a pizza app and other recommendations on my social media feeds, it quickly moved up my gotta-try list. As the summer months began to wane, I decided to head to Fuoco and see if the hype was justified.

Located three-and-a-half miles south of I84 from exit 26, Fuoco invites patrons into its white-faced, single-story building with a sign emblazoned with “Fuoco Coal Fired Apizza.” The sign beckons the palate with “coal fired” and “apizza.”

The single dining area consists of a long banquette along the entire right wall, with seating for twenty-five guests. The ordering and cooking areas are behind the walls to the left. Parking and a rear entrance make for an easy visit, whether dining in or for a take-away. In the warmer months, there are four tables on the front patio.

The menu is primarily pizza, with a few wings, salads, sharables and a calzone mixed in. On my visit, I was completely focused on the pizzas, which can be ordered in pre-determined combinations, with or without red sauce, plus you can “design it yourself” with almost two dozen toppings. I ordered a small (12”) red pie with pepperoni on one half and sausage and peppers on the other. She asked me if I wanted green or red roasted peppers, and I chose the latter.

When the pie was delivered, it showed a nicely charred finish, a few blackened bubbles indicated good heat in the ovens. When I lifted to see the undercarriage, I was also impressed with the amount of char. The one item that made me a little nervous was the level of toppings, this was a much more heavily laden pie than a traditional New Haven style.

Onto the real test.

Let’s start with the good news, the half with the pepperoni. There was a medium to high level of cheese and when I pulled the first slice, a few cheese strands needed a little more coaxing to leave the pie. I first tasted the crust. It was good, not as great as some of the others I have eaten over the last few months, but very much above average. The pepperoni rings were slightly cupped, but instead of the traditional oil in the cups, there was some melted mozzarella. I pulled a few pepperonis to taste. The edges were slightly crisped, and there was a medium to medium-high level of spiciness, they were delicious. The amount of sauce and cheese could have been somewhat less, but the bite of the pepperoni side brought a smile to my face. It was a great combination, with the pepperoni carrying the entire slice to the finish line. The balance was pepperoni (40%), sauce (30%), cheese (25%), and crust (5%). This was definitely a great slice of pepperoni pizza.

I was hoping for the same from the sausage half. The sausage chunks (my favorite way to serve sausage pizza) were in various sizes, and the weight caused a bit of a flop at the point, but overall, the crust held pretty well. I first tried a large chunk of the sausage. It had a decent fennel flavor, but could definitely use additional seasoning. My guess was the roasted red peppers were not roasted on-premises (too bad with a coal oven) as they gave that vinegary jar flavor. Now for the first bite. There was a lot of delicious, sweet-flavored tomato sauce and a little too much cheese and they sorta overpowered the sausage and peppers. The balance definitely went to the sauce (40%), cheese (30%), peppers (15%), sausage (10%), crust (5%). Unfortunately, it was not as great as the pepperoni slices.

Overall, it was a tale of two sides. I really liked the pepperoni slices; the pepperoni had great flavor and spiciness, and both could handle the abundance of the sweet sauce and the amount of cheese Fuoco placed on the pie. The sausage and pepper side was not in the same category. I was hoping for more flavor in the sausage and a deeper sweetness from the red peppers. Likewise, with a coal-fired oven, I expected a more flavorful crust. In Connecticut, when you use the words “coal fired apizza,” you are competing at an Olympic-like level, and each ingredient needs to be fantastic. While I would definitely recommend Fuoco, it could be even better with a few adjustments.

461 W Main St, Cheshire, CT 06410

(203) 272-2749

https://fuocoapizza.com

Little Rendezvous: Authentic 130+ Year Old Coal-Fired-Oven Pizza in Meriden, CT

Posted on July 25, 2024 by jfoodeats

The year was 1888. The Civil War was twenty-three years in the past and the Model A was fifteen years in the future, the Statue of Liberty and Washington Monuments were recently dedicated, the US population stood at 50 million, the Standard Oil Company and AT&T were new companies, the Brooklyn Bridge was opened, and newly created Coca Cola was the talk of the south.

In the small town of Matteawan, NY, overlooking the Hudson River, Oven Number 312 was manufactured by the Dutchess Tool Company and sold to F Duhrkop of Meriden, CT. Until the late 1930s, the oven-baked bread at the Pratt Street location, and in 1938 the Verdolini family, forced to relocate its downtown business to Pratt Street, started baking pizza. In 1946, the business was sold to Tony Pascucci who changed the name to the Little Rendezvous. Over seventy-five years later, under the tutelage of its seventh owner, Steve Chehotsky, the Little Rendezvous is now producing one of the best, if not the best, pizza in CT, in one of the state’s longest, continuous-running coal ovens.

Little Rendezvous is still located on Pratt Street in Meriden, a very cute town southeast of Waterbury off Route 691. The small, white building is remarkably quaint, with two large 3 over 3 paned windows, a single center door a large sign above the door with “120 year old coal-fired brick oven” and a second sign “Brick Oven Pizza.” They are very proud of their heritage and the oven.

Little Rendezvous is probably the least heralded pizza restaurant in Connecticut, yet at times, the wait can be over three hours, yes, over three hours from order to delivery. The regulars, who have enjoyed these pies for decades, understand that if they do not follow the “Pro Tips,” they will miss the chance of grabbing one of the more than 100 pies created daily.

I wanted to time my arrival before the lunch rush, and I felt comfortable when I arrived at 1145 with only two cars parked in front. My hopes were heightened when I entered and there were only two people in the dining room. Then I saw the first sign, “FUN FACT #32 AN EMPTY DINING ROOM DOES NOT MEAN WE ARE SLOW!!!” Now I was a little nervous. I approached the ordering counter and was greeted with, “Did you call ahead?” Oh no, did I screw up? When I asked how long, I was happily told that it would be a 35 to 40-minute wait, whew, not a big deal at all. I ordered a small half sausage, half pepperoni. Now to relax and wait.

Little Rendezvous has three rooms. The front area includes a long bench attached to the wall behind four 4-tops, with basic folding chairs facing the wall, a single round table that seats an additional three guests, and a shelf table with two chairs. The middle room is a connecting hallway (put in place to connect the two buildings in 1938) with shelves stocked with hundreds of pizza boxes. The back room is the epicenter. There is an ordering counter with one person manning the phones, taking face-to-face orders, slicing the pizza, bringing pizza to the dining area, and settling the bills. His ordering system consists of a spiral notebook divided into 15-minute increments. When an order is received, he places it in the outbound time slot. Upon my order at 1150, I was assigned the 1230 box.

Behind the ordering counter is where the magic is made. Steve, the owner-pizzaiola-master, calmly creates one pie at a time. First, he stretches the dough very thin, then he carefully swirls two ladles of sauce, a few pinches of grated Parmesan cheese, and a couple of handfuls of shredded cheese. He carefully finishes the pie with layers of the requested toppings atop the shredded cheese and into the oven for 10-12 minutes.

The oven is cavernous, at least 10-12 feet deep. On the floor in front of the oven is a pile of coal. The coal chamber sits to the right and when they opened it for me it was blazing hot with a mound of burning coal.

I waited in the dining area, and promptly as promised the pizza arrived. It looked great. I waited a few minutes to allow the pie to cool a bit. I decided to first try a sausage slice. I slowly slid one to check the bottom. With the edges charred, I thought I would see lots of black below. Nope, it was a consistent, dark beige. Now the lift. It held perfectly with a slight droop at the edge, and all the toppings stayed intact. Excellent construction.

My first bite was teeny-weeny out of respect for the roof of my mouth. Even with the tiniest of bites, I was impressed. Steve mentioned that he spends a lot of time with the sausage, and it showed. There was an enormous amount of flavor, not too spicy, just enough to take notice and the spiciness lingered after the bite. As the slice cooled and my bites became larger, I was more and more impressed. The balance definitely leaned towards sausage, if I were to divide, it would be 60% sausage, 15% sauce, 15% cheese, and 10% crust. As I have mentioned before, I am a chunk versus crumbled person, but I absolutely loved this slice.

With the sausage side in the record book, I moved to the pepperoni. The slices of pepperoni were 50% cupped, with just a dollop of oil in each, this is what I always look for, and this was the proper amount. My first bite was a full try since the pizza was now cooled. Wow, this was another great slice of pizza. The pepperoni was on the same spice profile as the sausage, just a nice level that kicked in and then trailed off. Different from the full coverage of sausage, the amount of pepperoni was more genteel, it allowed the cheese and sauce to participate more. The balance was perfect. The taste divide was 40% pepperoni, 25% cheese, 25% sauce and 10% crust. It was a slice of cheese pizza with pepperoni versus a slice of sausage pizza.

After enjoying my lunch, I spent a little time with Steve as he filled other orders. He started as a 15-year-old in the late 1980s and purchased the business about fifteen years ago. While he would not tell me the exact number of pies produced daily, he alluded to more than 100 and less than 200. The dough and sauce are made in-house, and he takes great pain in preparing the sausage. He was super friendly, and not only do you feel great about eating his great pizza, but he is the kind of friendly and customer-focused business owner that you want to give your hard-earned money to.

Overall, this is one of the best pizzas of my life. I do not want to get into the comparisons with other great pizzas in CT, we are all really lucky to have great options. Suffice it to say, Little Rendezvous definitely occupies one of my five fingers in the best of the best.

The Little Rendezvous

256 Pratt St.

Meriden, CT 06451

203.235.0110

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Vincenzo’s Pizzeria in Waterbury: A Hidden Gem for Delicious Pizza and More

Posted on July 14, 2024 by jfoodeats

I’ve been looking for some great burger and pizza places in “the Valley,” and noticed a few references to a pizza place in Waterbury, Vincenzo’s Pizzeria. Looking at their website, I thought it would be like numerous other local Italian restaurants, where I could order a pie, maybe a Parm, sit at one of their tables, and enjoy a quiet lunch.

Fast forward to my visit. Vincenzo’s is located about a mile south of I-84’s Chase Parkway exit in Waterbury. As I left the Interstate, I drove through a neighborhood that reminded me of where I grew up, two-story houses, not a lot of commerce, and a sense of community. As my waze went under a quarter of a mile until I arrived at Vincenzo’s, things began to change slightly, I noticed several patio dining areas with white tablecloths jutting from white-painted two-storied restaurants named La Tavola and D’Amelios Italian Eatery, it reminded me of several great neighborhood Italian restaurants from my youth.

I slowed as I approached one of Waterbury’s firehouses, looking for another white tableclothed restaurant. But there across the street, on the corner of Highland and Fairfield Avenues was a single-story, red-painted structure, with a couple of weather-worn signs. I had arrived at Vincenzo’s Pizzeria. Vincenzo’s also has a front patio, but at the time of my visit a few weeks before Memorial Day, there were no tablecloths, and it did not appear to be open. I looked for the parking area and saw a small lot behind the building that probably held six cars, one reserved for the delivery vehicle.

I entered through the rear and found myself in a teeny-tiny ordering area, probably six feet by eight feet, with a couple of folding chairs, one blocking the door to the dining room with a hand-written sign that read “Dining Area open Friday and Saturday nights.” At the far end was an ordering counter that doubled as the window to the kitchen, and seated on a bridge chair on the other side of the plexiglass was a sweet, elderly lady, who wrote all the orders on a pad to hand to the kitchen staff.

I ordered a small pizza, half sausage, and half pepperoni. She wrote “roni” and I smiled. I waited in my car for the suggested 15 minutes and returned as my pie was vacating the oven and into the traditional red & white box. It was now showtime.

When I opened the box, I was impressed, Vincenzo’s does not skimp on the amount of toppings, every millimeter was occupied by one of my two requested toppings. I first noticed the sausage, it was the crumbled variety, different from my preferred chunks, but better than slices. The ‘roni was slightly cupping, not a full-out cup-with-oil, but a medium cup and, yes, there was some oil in the cup.

The edges look perfectly browned and when I checked the underside, it was likewise a beautiful darkish tan. I tasted the edge crust, and it was light, airy, and great flavor. The first lift of the sausage slice was, again, impressive. It held together with just a little tilt at the inner point. Now for the test and the bites. The first bite produced a slight crunch of the crust, and the sausage delivered light to medium spice, and the proportion of sausage to cheese to sauce was slightly leaning toward the sausage. This first bite was great. I waited for the cooling effect and then my normal Third Bite Test, it passed with flying colors. This was a really good slice of pie.

Now onto the ‘roni side. The slice was equally delicious, the pepperoni was slightly spicy at first and then the spiciness sorta lingered and intensified. This side also passed the Third Bite Test with flying colors. In fact, the proportions were slightly better than the sausage side, which allowed the sauce and cheese to play a more dominant role in the flavors.

Overall, Vincenso’s is a great off-the-beaten-path stop for a great pie and I will definitely return and try some of the other items on the menu.

Vincenzo’s Pizzeria

752 Highland Ave

Waterbury, CT 06708

203-574-5300

203-574-5800

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Domenick & Pia – Great Pizza Find in Waterbury

Posted on April 8, 2024 by jfoodeats

I gotta go to the DMV…

In the old days, you would have packed lunch, dinner, and possibly an overnight bag. Now, you make an appointment online, show up, check-in, bam, boom, out in under 30 minutes, total. So when I recently scheduled my visit, I chose a lunchtime appointment so I could combine it with seeking out a hidden gem in Waterbury. And this time I finally found one…Domenick & Pia Downtown Pizzeria.

Domenick and Pia is located at 3 Brook St. around the corner from the Palace Theatre and the University of Connecticut (Waterbury) and has served pizza to the local community for over 50 years. Any place that successfully thrived and survived through those economic swings of Waterbury has something to offer. To say Domenick and Pia is a hole in the wall would be an understatement. While the exterior reflects the recent gentrification of this small part of Waterbury, walk through the doors and whoosh, back to the 1970s. The general ambiance of the interior is probably reflecting its grand opening with Formica-topped and wood-trimmed tables, push-on prices reminiscent of the side-of-the-road hamburger stands, red plastic trays to carry your pick-up order to the table, the whole nine yards. My guess is the original pie-price was under $2, with a 25-cent slice-price. There is no glamour, no TVs, no beer, just good old-fashioned pizza, a couple of hot oven grinders, a ton of drink options, and one of the most pleasant staff imaginable. To succeed with this formula, the pizza better be really good. Mission accomplished.

I ordered two slices from the young lady, one sausage and the other pepperoni…”let me throw those in the oven to make them perfect again.” Over my right shoulder I heard, “Throw a second sausage on that tray.” Obviously a regular and normal SOP, very cool.

She collected my $5 for the two slices, placed the plastic tray on the counter added a few napkins and I waited for my hot slices to…emerge…received…a little walk to a cleared table and a few photos. The slices looked very good, and my next step was to look at the underside. It was really well done, a nice brown with no burns, and it felt a little crunchy.

Now the test, and that first bite sets the stage, and the third bite is the litmus test (yes it is the third, NOT the first bite of a pizza slice that counts). I went with the pepperoni (it was closer) and the first bite brought a smile. The price may be 10X from when Domenick and Pia opened, but the pizza immediately transported me to those childhood days of eating pizza. The crust was crisp, had some great tomato sauce (probably housemade), the cheese was just the right flavor and amount, and the pepperoni gave a nice kick without too much spiciness. Major pass on bite #1. After two more bites, this slice passed all the tests, it was great.

Onto the sausage slice. My preference is for chunks of sausage versus slices, Domenick and Pia chose the latter. Bite #1 on the sausage side was also a pleasant surprise. The sausage was very good, not perfect but really, really good. I like a little more fennel and chunks, but for sliced sausage, it was almost perfect. And given the crust, sauce, and cheese combo, it was a great slice.

As I was leaving I decided to return and thank the person behind the counter who I thought was the owner. When I complimented him and the pizza, he called for his mother from the back and said this was all her doing. So there I was thanking the founder/matriarch and the son who has kept this Waterbury tradition alive for over fifty years. My hat’s off to the founder, the son, the staff, and the pizza. It was a great find for some incredible slices.

Domenick and Pia

3 Brook St.

Waterbury, CT 06702

(203) 753-3401

https://www.domenickpiadowntownpizzeria.com

Spiga – Old World Meets New Italian in New Canaan

Posted on August 30, 2016 by jfoodeats

Spiga Wine Bar opened quietly in New Canaan a few weeks ago, offering a menu that combines old world Italian red sauce cuisine with modern interpretations of classic dishes. As reported in the CTbites Sneak Peek, the new owners redesigned the interior to offer a family focus for early guests followed by a hip environment as the evening progresses. During its opening weekend, my wife and I visited after a movie and then again with friends for a late lunch. On both occasions we were all impressed with the cuisine, but were a little taken aback by the noise. CTbites was subsequently invited by the owners to visit one afternoon to sample additional items, discuss the changes envisioned to the menu and how the owners are addressing the desire of guests to enjoy conversation with friends and family.

Every visit to Spiga should start with a selection of their Italian meats and cheeses. Ours included Prosciutto di Parma, Soppressata and Porchetta, Mozzarella cheese and olives. Each of the meats offered a different level of spiciness, from the mild Prosciutto to the spicy Soppressata, and all of them were delicious. They can be ordered individually or as a group of one to four meats with Mozzarella.

The menu includes numerous combinations of pizzas, from a simple Margherita to an elaborate “New England” with lobster. The crust of the rectangular shaped personal 12” pizza is crispy from edge to center, with only the slight bend in a slice when lifted. Some may choose to use a knife and fork; this might be a requirement for several of the “salad” topped pies.

I sampled three different combinations. My favorite was the “Calabrese,” which combined a layer of melted Mozzarella cheese and San Marzano tomato sauce, topped with the spicy Sopressata Calabrese and finished with drizzles of hot oil and honey. This sweet-spicy combination offered great heat from the sopressata and the hot oil, offset by a drizzle of the sweet honey. The cheese mellowed the heat and the sauce added even more sweetness.

The “Di Parma” started with melted fresh mozzarella plus chunks of fresh tomatoes and topped with a large mound of lightly dressed arugula and a generous portion of San Danielle prosciutto. The prosciutto was outstanding, with a delightfully soft texture and the cheese and sauce were delicious. I was not as big a fan of the dressed arugula as others, preferring an undressed version.

I was a little apprehensive when the “Roasted Beet” pizza was delivered. It included San Marzano tomato sauce, arugula, cubes of local roasted beets, goat cheese and drizzled with Balsamic reduction. This melding of a salad and pizza was very tasty. The cubes of beets worked well with both the mozzarella and the creamy goat cheese, adding a sweet earthiness to the dish, balanced by the peppery (and in this case undressed) arugula.

I sampled three of the small plates during my visits. My favorite was the “Fried Meatballs” topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, basil and Ricotta cheese. The meatballs were excellent, soft on the interior, surrounded by a crispy exterior and delivered great flavor with just a hint of garlic. The sweet San Marzano sauce was fantastic and the dollops of Ricotta added great creaminess to the dish.

I also enjoyed the “Roasted Brussels Sprouts,” and included a large serving of fried sprouts, paired with crispy pancetta pieces and finished with a honey truffle oil. The sprouts were perfectly fried, crispy on the edges and still firm throughout. The fried pancetta added wonderful salty-smoky flavor and with the cheese added just enough salt to perk the palate.

The last small plate was the “Portuguese Grilled Octopus” that was served with crispy Coppa, baby potatoes, and micro greens. The octopus was very tender, but the texture was off-putting and spongy, and it would have benefitted from a charring on the exterior and the soft textures continued with the potatoes. The crispy Coppa added a slight crunch to the dish, but the current version was not to my liking.

There are numerous salads, with my favorite the “Farro and Quinoa Salad,” served with avocado, cucumbers, scallions, heirloom cherry tomatoes, grilled fennel and finished with lemon-EVOO. The quinoa was a great earthy canvas for the other ingredients. The sweet cucumbers and tomatoes were balanced by the fennel and scallions, and brightened by the lemon dressing.

Another large salad was the “Campagna Salad,” with spinach, golden apples, fresh pears, roasted walnuts, cranberries, Gorgonzola cheese, and Balsamic vinaigrette. A large mound of spinach was surrounded by the sweet thinly sliced fruits, crunchy nuts and pungent cheese. Each forkful brought a different combination of flavors.

With pastas ranging from a home-style spaghetti and meatballs to lobster fettuccine, I decided to try a rich pasta and a light pasta. The “Short Rib Ravioli” was made in-house with a rich, meaty short rib filling encased in a thin pasta sheet and served with a wild mushroom marsala sauce. The deep flavor of the meat was complemented by the earthiness of the wild mushroom and the Marsala sauce. As the cool weather arrives, this will be an excellent comfort option.

On the lighter side, the “Linguini Vongole” was very good. A medium portion of house-made linguini was served in a simple clam broth, with an abundance of cockles, baby clams, roasted garlic, and seasoned with parsley and red chili peppers. The broth was flavorful with a hint of garlic. The pasta was just a touch on the thick side, and the pasta and shellfish were slightly overcooked.

The “Market Cioppino” was excellent. A bowl of lobster, shrimp, calamari, swordfish (this changes daily) and clams, swimming in a seafood tomato broth was served with grilled crostini. Each was perfectly cooked and maintained a soft texture. The broth was delicious. A little red pepper flakes on the table for those, like me, who prefer a little more heat would have made this a perfect rendition.

Overall, Spiga is delivering wonderful pizzas, small plates, salads and main course. I asked the owner about the noise and he told me that they purchased sound dampening material that is being installed throughout the dining area. Likewise, Spiga’s opening menu was very large (this is the owners’ first venture into New Canaan) and they wanted to understand the likes and dislikes versus their other restaurants. Over the next few weeks, the menu will more align with the tastes of the New Canaan guests.

Many thanks to Janes Beiles of Jane Beiles Photography for these wonderful photos.

136 Main St – New Canaan, CT 06840

(203) 920-1351

Really Liked

Meat Platter – Prosciutto di Parma, Soppressata and Porchetta with Mozzarella ($25.50)
Calabrese Pizza ($16)
Fried Meatballs ($9)
Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($9)
Short Rib Ravioli (Lunch $17; Dinner $20)
Market Cioppino (Lunch $23; Dinner $26)

Liked

Di Parma Pizza($16)
Roasted Beet Pizza ($17)
Farro and Quinoa Salad (Lunch $12; Dinner $15)
Campagna Salad (Lunch $10; Dinner $13)
Linguini Vongole (Lunch $18; Dinner $20)

Needs Improvement

Portuguese Grilled Octopus ($15)

The author was compensated for this review; the meal on the last visit was provided without charge. The opinions contained herein are solely those of the author.

Amore Cucina (Stamford) – Outstanding Pizza

Posted on June 5, 2015 by jfoodeats

There is another entrant onto my Great Pizza List. Amore Cucina & Bar recently opened on Hope Street in Stamford and is serving outstanding pizza. On a recent Monday, Owner Bruno DiFabio, opened his doors with 100% of the proceeds earmarked for the Susan G Komen Research Foundation for Breast Cancer. DiFabio is no stranger to the limelight. He is a six-time World Pizza Champion and Television Personality and owns eleven restaurants in the US.

Amore serves two types of pizza and on this visit I sampled the “Ferentini” square pie. The making of the dough requires a 96-hour fermentation process, using condensed milk that breaks down the gluten in the flour. Bruno told me this creates close to a gluten free product and he recommends to people with gluten issues.

The Ferentini is topped with spicy salami, green olives, tomato, Mozzarella cheese and San Marzano purée, and was the winner in the Best Traditional Category at the Las Vegas Expo. The square shape is reminiscent of Chicago pan pizza and the thickness of the dough may give some concern, but after one bite you will understand that you are in the presence of pizza greatness.

The pizza was perfectly baked, with a tan crust and underside, the cheese was firmly holding all of the ingredients in place (I do not like when the cheese covers the ingredients) and they were evenly distributed so each bite of the six slices would capture all of the flavors. My first bite of the crust was similar to biting into air surrounded by a thin crispy crust…it was divine, and the flavor was fantastic. I moved onto the full slice and they were fantastic. The sweetness of the San Marzano purée combined with the spiciness of the salami and the brightness of the olives was perfect. The cheese added a hint of luscious creaminess. This was one of the best pizzas I have ever eaten.

Overall, Amore is a great place, the décor is wonderful, the owner is a great person who can deliver exceptional food and gives back to the community and the pizza is world class.

Table 104 (STM) – Not a Hit

Posted on October 12, 2014 by jfoodeats

Table 104 recently opened on Long Ridge Rd just north of Saks on the way to the Merritt, the fourth re-incarnation of this space (Matteo’s, Fio’s, and Minetto’s to name a few) over the past several years. In addition to the restaurants available in the strip malls on High Ridge, Table 104 offers an option to downtown Stamford. Parking is available in an attached lot, with valet parking on the weekends. We recently visited and sampled several small plates, a two pizza combinations, a pasta and one of their larger plates.

My favorite dish of the visit was the “Sicilian Arancini with the Bolognese Sauce.” The arancini were perfectly cooked to maintain its interior moistness; and the kitchen did an excellent job in frying each ball to create a crispy exterior. They sat atop a mound of Bolognese sauce, which was very good…this dish was the highlight of the visit. The other small plate, The “Meatballs, Pork-Chicken Beef, Grilled Crostino, Marinara, Shaved Grana.” was disappointing. The meatballs were severely undercooked, borderline raw, spicy and once we tasted the very rare interior we stopped eating them.

The first pizza to arrive was the mushroom pizza. The mushrooms were pretty good and worked well with the cheese. The toppings on the other pizza were sausage, et. al. The sausage was also pretty good, unfortunately both suffered from a crust that was very bland.

The pasta dish was capellini combined with shrimp, arugula and grape tomatoes. Other than a few slices of garlic, the dish was significantly under-seasoned, it was very bland.
The “Grilled Hangar Steak, Smashed Fingerling, Roasted Peppers, Leeks, Mushroom Ragu,” ordered medium-rare, was served rare-raw. Other than a little vinegar flavor from the chimichurri, It was also under-seasoned. Unfortunately it was overwhelmed with oil from the chimichurri. The potatoes were well prepared but they too were without any seasoning.

Overall it was a very disappointing visit to Table 104. Other than the arancini, the other dishes were not memorable.

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying

Tag Archives: pizza