Tag Archives: litchfield

From Farm to Flawless: An Evening at Arethusa al tavolo (Bantam)

Posted on by
Reply

Every so often you’re blessed with an evening that feels like a perfect dining experience, the atmosphere, service, food, and company all in flawless rhythm. Such was our last visit to Arethusa al tavolo in Bantam. The attention to detail, farm-fresh ingredients, and warm hospitality created a rare dining experience that I’ll treasure long after the evening ended. If you’re lucky enough to snag a table, please make the trip.

To fully appreciate the cuisine of Arethusa al tavolo, it is essential to understand the history of Arethus Farms. Purchased in 1868 by the Webster family and named after a pink swamp orchid, the farm supplied milk and cheese to the Litchfield community for over a century. In 1999, fashion icons George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgaitis, two senior executives at Manolo Blahnik, as well as neighbors of the farm, purchased the land to avoid it being developed and to preserve its natural beauty. Soon after, they introduced purebred Holstein cows, later adding Jerseys and Brown Swiss. Their herd quickly gained national acclaim, with two champions, Melanie and Veronica, winning top honors at the World Dairy Expo. In 2001, Arethusa began bottling milk under its own label, and today its award-winning herd numbers over 350.

Originally, the two envisioned a wine and cheese bar (inspired by Puglia, Italy), next to Arethusa’s ice cream and cheese shop in downtown Bantam. But, after hiring Dan Magill, a chef with CIA and Daniel Boulud experience, they realized they needed a full restaurant to match his skills, and the trio opened Arethusa al tavolo in June 2013. The restaurant relies exclusively on the farm’s own dairy and other premium ingredients, a commitment to quality that’s earned it numerous accolades, including being named the state’s best in 2018.

Magill is no stranger to the produce and vineyards of the northeast, having grown up on Long Island’s North Fork. Over the years, his talent has been recognized with a James Beard Award as “Best Chef Northeast” in 2016, and “Chef of the Year” by the Connecticut Restaurant Association. Commenting on his use of the products from Arethusa Farms, he mentioned, “you always take more pride in the product that you are working with, when it is your own.”

The restaurant is divided into three dining areas. To the left of the entrance, running the length of the wall, is the bar, which serves guests on a first-come basis. To the right lies a single dining room with a mix of banquettes and tables, while the outdoor patio offers al fresco dining when the weather cooperates.  When we entered, we were warmly greeted by the hostess, who escorted us to the table in the center of the main dining area. While I was initially concerned about the potential noise level, I was pleasantly surprised to find it was within an acceptable level.

We started the meal with two appetizers. I ordered the Yellowtail Tartare and my wife the Chilled Heirloom Tomato Soup.

If you haven’t tried Arethusa’s tartare, Magill’s version offers a bold twist on this classic. The plate is first adorned with slices of paper-thin radish and cucumber slices, before being topped with a long rectangle of cubed avocado supporting the main event, the silky yellowtail. This composition was finished with a spattering of tobiko and microgreens. Accompanying the tartare were house-made salt-and-vinegar chips, which added a briny crunch. Taken as a single bite, the dish bursts with creamy, sweet, salty, earthy, and fresh-fish flavors, elevated by the playful pop of tobiko. This was one of the freshest, most memorable tuna tartares I’ve tasted.

This is late summer in the Northeast, when sweet corn and tomatoes are at their ripest. Arethusa brought these two local ingredients together in a deceptively simple yet elegant tomato soup. The tomatoes were first emulsified into a velvety base and slightly thickened with the whipped ricotta, then a smattering of sweet corn kernels were added. The presentation was completed with tiny dollops of basil gelée and a sprinkle of microgreens. The result was a soup both deep and refreshingly bright, with its rich tomato sweetness highlighting the peak flavors of the season.

For her entrée, my wife ordered the Tahini glazed organic Scottish salmon served with tabbouleh, cucumber radish, seeds and Arethusa yogurt vinaigrette. The plate arrived with a large swath of tabbouleh down the center, with two large salmon filets leaning against it on either side. Sitting atop the filets were thin slices of radish, all finished with a dusting of microgreens. The first noticeable difference in this salmon was its sheen, the kitchen lacquered the filets with Tahini before presenting, which was a first for me. Let’s start with the Tabbouleh, the nutty, earthy bulgur paired perfectly with bursts of sweet tomato, while the fresh herbs added bright, lively notes. The salmon was impeccable, moist, rich, flavorful and was a great complement to the tabbouleh. This was one of the best salmon presentations I’ve ever tasted.

For my entrée, I chose the Nova Scotia halibut, gently poached in olive oil and set over sweet corn polenta, accompanied by tiny tomatoes, zucchini, chanterelles, seabeans, and bits of chorizo. The halibut was like none I have ever eaten. When I initially pulled a piece and, tasted it without the other items, I was in awe, moist, sweet, almost melting. The polenta celebrated the local corn harvest, its creamy base surrounded by a ring of basil oil.  Sitting atop the polenta was a mélange of sweet corn kernels, the diced chanterelles, tomatoes, chorizo and more microgreens. Each was delicious on its own, but together they created a bite that was rich yet fresh, creamy yet crisp—absolutely the best halibut I’ve ever tasted in my life.

Should we order dessert? On our previous visit we were amazed by Death by Chocolate. It was now absent from the menu, replaced by the Chocolate Panna Cotta. We asked the server if it would it reach the level of the other chocolate dessert? She slyly smiled and said, “it is better.” Strong words, and we were up for the challenge.

Pastry Chefs do not receive the acclaim they deserve, and with the desserts at Arethusa, this one deserves a call-out. Stacy D’Angelo, the Executive Pastry Chef, brings a lifetime of training and experience to the kitchen. A child of restaurant industry professionals, D’Angelo’s childhood dream was to become a pastry chef. After attending Kaynor Technical High School for Culinary Arts, she completed her formal training at Johnson and Wales University for Baking and Pastry Arts. Her skills were further refined at Mohegan Sun Resort before joining the Arethusa family, first at Arethusa a mano as a pastry cook, then Pastry Sous, and eventually to her current position of Executive Pastry Chef at Arethusa al tavolo.

And yes, we fell in love with the Chocolate Panna Cotta, its description on the menu continued with cherry morello cheesecake, hazelnut crunch, mocha sauce, chocolate ice cream, and pickled cherries. What was presented was not at all what we expected. The composition included a wide ribbon of chocolate on the bottom of the plate with three major additions, an unbelievable cheesecake with a hint of cherry, a light and flavorful panna cotta and a scoop of Arethusa’s own divine chocolate ice cream. A few dollops of whipped cream and all topped with crumbled hazelnuts and the cherries. This was a master class in decadence and a whole new level of indulgence.

Our evening at Arethusa al tavolo was flawless. Few places pull farm, chef, and servers into such perfect harmony, allowing every ingredient to shine with effortless style. Grab someone you love, some friends, anyone who appreciates a great culinary adventure. Each dish was brilliant, every bite delightful, and the whole experience you’ll be talking about long after the last bite.

828 Bantam Rd, Bantam, CT 06750

(860) 567-0043

arethusaaltavolo.com

Community Table – New Chef Bolivar Hilario Brings Sublime Elegance

Posted on by
Reply

“Community table’s mission is to sustainably prepare the highest quality, locally grown, and procured ingredients to serve its community in a casual, vibrant atmosphere. Ct values its partnerships with local farms that bring the best produce of the season to create delicious recipes for their customer’s enjoyment each time they visit the restaurant.”

From Community table Website

Community table is housed in a nondescript, quaint structure on Route 202 in New Preston, and presents a dining experience that blends effortlessly into its rural setting. The only recognizable landmark to announce your arrival is a simplistic roadside sign with a singular orange “Ct” logo on a white background, reflecting the restaurant’s core value: a strong focus on community with an upper case “C” and a less formal, more shared dining experience at the table with a lower case “t”. A farmer’s porch extends across the front of the building, and a large parking lot is located to one side. The entrance is immediately to the left of a striking, vertically soaring, organic, red metal sculpture, leading guests directly into the bar area.

The hostess extends a warm greeting when you enter the bar, the most lively of the restaurant’s three dining areas. Choose this room or wander down the hallway to the right and into the second room, which provides both a communal atmosphere with its large table, or a few intimate, two-person tables. Continue to the third, and my personal favorite, secluded back room, which blends warmth and elegance, creating a relaxed atmosphere for conversation amongst the couples, as well as shared amongst friends.

Overseeing the kitchen since September 2023 is head chef Bolivar Hilario, who describes his culinary style as a fusion of his family’s Mexican heritage with French, Italian, Nordic and Japanese influences. He was raised in Florida, and once he found his passion for cooking, he travelled to New York and worked for Enrique Olvera, the world-renowned Mexican chef at Cosme, thereafter he broadened his skills at Aska, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant known for its Scandinavian-inspired cuisine, Chumley’s, the Michelin-starred Musket Room, and 69 Leonard and Shoji, where he was introduced to Japanese theories and techniques. He credits the experiences at 69 Leonard and Shoji as his epiphany to the Japanese centuries-honed principles of preparation and allowing the food to speak for the dish, a constant he currently incorporates into each of his creations at Ct.

The menu exposes the guests to flavors and textures to dazzle the palate, unveiling combinations designed to awaken the senses. Espousing the Farm to Table mantra, Halario has developed relationships with local growers like Renée Giroux at Earth’s Palate in Warren, The Oracle Mushroom Company in Kent and Crafted Brew Lab in Bantam and as well as others in the region. Wanting the guests to enjoy these bounties year-round, he not only prepares the fresh vegetables and herbs for the daily menu but also preserves and ferments many for his winter guests to enjoy.

I highly recommend starting the culinary adventure by ordering the house-made six-grain sourdough bread with herb butter. Hilario’s personal sourdough starter is the foundation of the bread, baked fresh several days per week. This is one of the most delicious breads anywhere, served with herb butter, and showcases a firm crust and a moist, opaque interior, delivering a richness that sets the stage for the remainder of your visit.

The current menu offers several delightful options, the first a Blue Corn flour tlayuda. This dish, akin to a flat, topped taco, features house-made, extra-thin tortillas layered with a savory salsa macha base, generously adorned with locally sourced Oracle mushrooms, a creamy caramelized cauliflower puree, delicate tiny purple onions, vibrant Earth’s Palate flowers (from Warren, CT), and a scattering of queso fresco. It was presented in four wedges, and the visual composition was matched only by its remarkable flavors. The first bite was an explosion of flavors and textures, beginning with the earthiness of a myriad of mushrooms and other vegetables and herbs, and finishes with a shot of spiciness.

For those interested in a bright and light entrée, choose the steamed squash blossoms, stuffed with shrimp mousseline, Guajillo pepper, squash, Earth’s Palate shiso, red pepper mole, and topped with wild forage tiger lily petals. While squash blossoms are normally filled with cheese and fried, Halario’s presentation softens the approach with a steamed version, stuffed with a mousseline of Gulf shrimp, cream, chives and a touch of one of his favorite herbs, tarragon. The dish was finished with a light sauce made from the shrimp shells to which he added some dashi from his Japanese training, plus chive and ramp oils. He described the dish as “local meets Japanese…with my heritage of Mexican cuisine.” The dish was fantastic, light, flavorful and full of aromatics from the oils and herbs.

Leave room for dessert because the new dessert chef is creating incredible final acts.

The first was a deconstructed “strawberry shortcake” which takes the three basic elements, sweet strawberries, tender almond gluten-free shortcake, and rich whipped cream, to a higher level with the addition of a scoop of strawberry ice cream, slightly spiked with a touch of vodka. The composition began with the cylindrical deliciousness of the shortbread, which was about as perfect as any I have tasted, then the chef surrounded this disk with a delightful and deliciously creamy whipped cream. The final element, the strawberries, which have been poached in lemon verbena to enhance the fruit’s natural sweetness were placed atop. The chef topped this creation with dehydrated strawberry flakes. The addition of the strawberry ice cream elevated this traditional dessert to a new level with additional flavors. The strawberry shortcake was brilliantly prepared.

The other highly recommended dessert is the flourless chocolate cake with house-made coffee ice cream and puffed quinoa. Where do I begin describing these three levels of perfection? The chocolate cake was over-the-top outstanding, moist, chocolatey, with richness oozing from every bite. This alone would have been completely satisfying, but Halario added a scoop of Ct’s house-made coffee ice cream that sat atop the cake. Then, for some textural fun, Halario added a sprinkling of puffed quinoa. The complete bite brought so many delicious sweets and crunch to the palate; it was perfect in every way.

Overall, Connecticut table is one of the best restaurants in the state. Devoid of any pretense, it harvests the natural flavors of the ingredients using century-old techniques with modern flair. The environment is relaxing to the senses, while the cuisine elevates each aspect of the ingredients in combinations that tantalize every part of the palate. Chef Halario’s journey to understand numerous cuisines is a complete success in every dish.

223 Litchfield Turnpike (Rt. 202)

New Preston CT 06777

860-868-9354

communitytablect.com

Some Great Eats @The Corner (Litchfield)

Posted on by
Reply

We finally made it to @The Corner in Litchfield. It is located at the eastern end of the town green at the corner (no surprise) of West St. and South St. just a couple of doors up from the post office. There are two rooms, one a dining room and the other a bar with several tables. At mid-day, it was about 30% full, with numerous locals having lunch. 

The lunch menu is mostly sandwiches, creative burgers, and a few salads. We were not sure what to order and we went for two of their basic offerings. 

I chose the GOCHUJANG CHICKEN ($16), which was crispy buttermilk fried chicken thigh, kimchee cucumbers, sweet & sour cabbage, gochujang honey & sesame aioli. The chicken was perfectly fried (I like the thigh much better than the breast) to a crispy exterior while maintaining a moist interior. Then I tasted the toppings. I absolutely loved the combination. Between the sweet, spicy, crunchy interplay it was not only a delicious sandwich but a great sandwich. The entire dish had such great complexity and just the right level of spiciness. While the roll could handle all the ingredients, I found it easier to enjoy with a knife and fork. I give the sandwich an 8. 

As a side, I had to order the ONION RINGS ($8), which were beer battered and served with corner sauce. @The Corner does not skimp on this side dish, not a mere 4-5 rings, but closer to a baker’s dozen, and we were glad they gave us such a nice-sized portion. These rings were delicious, from the sweetness and soft interior to the perfectly crispy exterior. The corner sauce was a great complement with just a hint of spice. Best onion rings in quite some time, I give them a 9.

My wife was not in the mood for a burger or sandwich, so she decided to order a small plate of SMOKED SALMON LATKES ($17), which were crisp potato pancakes topped with chive creme fraiche, smoked salmon, crispy capers & beet pickled red onions. There are two methods to make potato latkes, one with a grater and one with a ricer, @The Table uses the latter, which makes for a much denser latke. Both of us found these much too dense. It would also have benefitted from more onion. While the flavor was pretty good, it was not to our liking, and I can only give a 2.

@The Corner is a great place to relax during the day in one of our favorite towns, Litchfield. My recommendation is to stick to the core of the menu, the burgers, sandwiches, and fries. The fried chicken and onion rings were both delicious, and I would highly recommend both.

Community Table (New Preston) – Magnificent Food in a Wonderful Locale

Posted on by
Reply

I’ve heard so much about Community Table (affectionately known at CT) in New Preston, CT, over the years that when my college roommate texted me and asked if we wanted to join him and his husband for dinner, I was ecstatic. 

The drive through the rolling hills of Washington Township, and through the tranquility of Litchfield county took about 40 minutes. The exterior of CT is very non-descript, a simple white building, with a minimalist “CT” sign, and the interior was a throwback colonial bar feeling with beams and lots of wood. We entered the bar area, where we were greeted by a wonderful woman, who took our jackets and escorted us to the back dining room, where under twenty guests would enjoy the magnificent cuisine. Our server arrived, gave us a warm welcome and we looked to begin our evening.

We started with the House-Made Six Grain Sourdough Bread and sea salted butter ($12). One bite and I knew this was going to be a special night. The bread had a wonderful, moist texture, full of flavor and the butter was salted perfectly. It was so special that on our subsequent visit, we bought a second loaf to go.

Throughout this dinner and our subsequent visit a week later, we enjoyed some spectacular cuisine.

My wife ordered the Local Portobello Mushroom Soup with pepitas and orange gremolata, with a drizzle of balsamic reduction ($17). The version presented by CT was one of, if not the best, mushroom soups anywhere. The umami of the mushrooms was fully evident, and the texture was smooth as silk, with an incredible earthiness. One would think that there was cream in the soup, but not a trace, only emulsified mushrooms to create the silky texture. This is easily a 10+.

I opted for a half order of the homemade Bucatini All’ Amatriciana, prepared with preserved San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, Aleppo pepper, and Pecorino Romano cheese ($24). Let’s begin with the pasta, prepared to perfection and the appetizer-sized option was good portion. It was topped with a rich tomato sauce, which benefited both from the quality and the preserved process, plus some chunks of the guanciale and smothered in the grated Pecorino. Given the All’ Amatriciana description, I was a little concerned about the spice level, but there was barely a kick in the sauce. Instead, it was spectacular in tomato lusciousness, and I was glad they offered a spoon, so I could enjoy every, last bite. This was also easily a 10+.

I am a huge fan of duck, so I decided to order the Five Spice Pekin Duck Breast, Cortland apple puree, radicchio, and red wine duck jus ($39). (Pictured above) Two large strips of rare duck breast sat atop the large portion of radicchio. The server poured the duck jus around the dish, and I found the puree hidden beneath the radicchio. The duck was tender, succulent, and rich in flavor, it was superbly prepared to the lighter side of medium rare. The key to this dish was the Cortland apple puree, it brought all the great duck flavors to the forefront. The jus was a great counterbalance to the apple sweetness. The radicchio added a certain tartness to the dish. It is easy to give this dish a 10+.

My wife ordered the Bincho Grilled Lemon Garlic Marinated Head-On Prawns, ancho chili, stone ground cheddar cheese grits, and scallions ($42). Four large prawns grilled on Bincho high-heat grill sat atop the grits and the kitchen was kind enough to separate the heads from the bodies. The prawns offered a very mild spiciness from the ancho chili rub, and the cheddar cheese grits were better than anything I ate while living in Georgia. This was another 10 dish.

It was such a great evening that my wife and I decided to return a week later. We again asked for the back room, looking for some quiet time. With four 2-tops lined along the wall, we understood the term community table. All eight of us engaged in interspersed conversation at times while we each focused on our individual dinner partner at other times. 

On the second visit, I started with the Black Sea Bass Crudo, with shaved fennel, grapefruit, and chives ($21). If you are looking for a refined dish to open your palate for the rest of the evening, this is an excellent option. A large portion of thinly sliced sea bass filled the plate and was topped with grapefruit segments and thinly sliced fennel circles. Droplets of spiced oil and a few strands of dill finished the dish. The combination of flavors and textures was refreshing, delicious, and completely satisfying. Like most of the dishes at CT, the guest can decide on various combinations from a single element to all of the components. I would rate this dish a 9-10.

On this second visit, I decided to order a slightly heavier entrée, the Berkshire House Smoked Pork Chop with celery root puree, charred broccolini, and a mole poblano ($44). Two concentric circles with the mole portion surrounding the celery root puree were flanked by a large, sliced pork chop on one side and the charred broccolini on the other. The first bite was the pork chop was very good but needed something to balance the flavor. the addition of the mole and puree was required to appreciate the vision of the chef. Each bite was smoky, creamy, spicy, and sweet. The charred broccolini added another sweet component, and was sweet and the ever-so-slight char added a nice depth. I give this dish a 9.

As I mentioned in other articles, there is sometimes a weak link, and for CT it was the Chocolate Tres Leche Cake with burnt local cream ($16). We ordered on both visits, not believing our palate on the first. The cake was dense, dry, and not very chocolatey (the opposite of our expectations with a tres leche cake) and the icing was a bland rendition. I was hoping for a delightfully light and moist ending, but it was not to my liking. I will not rank this cake.

Why we waited so long to venture to CT still shocks me, the food was remarkable, the service impeccable, and the management was over-the-top friendly and inviting on both of our visits. A great job by all.

Meraki – A Hidden Gem in Litchfield

Posted on by
Reply

As you travel through the rolling hills of Litchfield County, you are mesmerized by its beauty, the intertwining of scenic farms, silos and barns dating back hundreds of years nestled amongst wineries, with their vines reminding you of the connection to the land. Surrounding the bucolic town of Litchfield, the gastronomic options are staggering, from brilliant Italian, to farm-to-table dinners that will satisfy your wildest culinary desires to glorious ice cream. About a mile west of the Litchfield common sits a small, unassuming, side of the road, hidden gem, Meraki, serving some of the boldest combinations I have tasted in quite some time. 

When you first enter Meraki, it reminds you of a local coffee shop, air pots of coffee, a large variety of pastries from scones to brownies to numerous gluten-free options. Lift your eyes above the ordering counter to the chalkboard menu, and you will see how Meraki has elevated the breakfast experience, with fifteen different hot coffee/tea options and a dozen cold plus shots and a variety of “milks.” Taking center stage on that chalkboard are the breakfast options, from a simple egg sandwich to a breakfast burrito. I smiled as I read that the “Healthy Plate” included an over-easy egg, cheese, bacon and avocado. As I approached the young lady to order, she was quick to point to the other chalkboard on the right wall that described another fourteen “All Day Café” offerings, then she handed me a paper menu that included even more enticing choices. Needless to say, Meraki has something for everyone.

After I ordered my three sandwiches, I sat amongst a few other lucky patrons at one of the seven small tables (there is also a large patio for warmer times). This is a local haunt, a couple of high school students enjoying a wrap and some tik-tok banter, an elderly couple out for a mid-day meal and a few local ladies sharing tea, soup and salads, the vibe was relaxed, inviting and pleasant. The excitement began when the food arrived. 

The highlight of the visit was the Meraki Porchetta, it was possibly the best breakfast sandwich I have ever eaten, taking the mainstream bacon, egg and cheese to a whole, new level. It included a local fried egg, spicy house kimchi, a slice of tomato, with sriracha aioli, all served on a house-made brioche. Where to begin is easy…the dish’s name points to its star, the porchetta. It was crispy, a touch of saltiness and a smoky flavor for the ages. While the porchetta was the star of the show, the supporting cast performed just as admirably. The egg and cheese were fantastic, rich, creamy and the sandwich would have been a winner stopping with these three traditional ingredients, but let’s add some heat, not one type, but two. The sriracha aioli and spicy kimchi both kicked this sandwich to the hall of fame, and then the tomato added a sweet complement. In case it did not come across, the Meraki Porchetta alone, is worth the trip. A solid 10++ 

The Coffee Rubbed Burger was very good, a nice sized patty that was joined inside a brioche by bacon, tomato, Swiss cheese, Meraki pickle, crunchy shallot, lettuce, and mayo. The burger was mild in flavor and tightly packed. The kitchen did a great job of getting a good sear on the exterior, but it was cooked a little more than my requested medium rare. Now onto the other ingredients, which added the required balance to the burger, and that was the key to this burger, balance. Meraki really knows how to add a creamy element to its sandwiches, in this case the melted Swiss cheese and mayo. The cheese added almost a Gruyere nuttiness and the mayo was a wonderful smoothing element. Different from the other two sandwiches, the burger avoided spice, adding just a little tang from the pickle. The lettuce was a good hearty variety, which I appreciated, and the sweet tomato was a welcome addition. I would give this burger a solid 7.  

Nestled next to the burger was a small serving of the Apple Beet Salad. While I am usually looking for some great fries with my burger, I figured what the heck and tasted, and I am glad I did. These were fantastic, tender, and more importantly, sweet as sugar. This salad was another 10.

The last sandwich was the Korean Chicken Sandwich with Gochujang BBQ sauce, avocado, kimchi, lettuce, sriracha aioli and served on a Ciabatta. The flavors in the sandwich were over the top bold and flavorful, the BBQ sauce was superb and with the kimchi and the sriracha aioli, created a long-tailed spice from each bite. Sadly, the chicken was very overcooked, chewy to the point of difficult to eat and there was a scant amount of avocado, which would have tempered the spiciness. I can only give this sandwich a 5 (easily elevated to an 8-9 if the chicken was more tender), but willing to give it another chance in the future.

Given the experience with the apples and beets, I was absolutely going to taste the Soba Noodles that accompanied the chicken. Wow, these were over the top. Another 10 for this side dish.

Overall, I was very impressed with Meraki. The Meraki Porchetta was perfection, the sides were incredible, when the Korean chicken is cooked properly, it would be in the same category as the porchetta, and the balance of the burger was spot on. I kick myself for not buying a bunch of the sides to take home to enjoy. Discovering Meraki in the countryside of Litchfield County was a true find and a hidden gem.