Is Christos Restaurant Worth the Hype? Pizza Review Inside

I finally made it to Christos Restaurant & Bar in Wallingford, the third pizzeria of Connecticut’s self-proclaimed Three Kings of Pizza. While the three brother-owners may share common DNA, the pizzas at each show a very different view of what pizza should entail.

When I arrived, I was pleased to see that Christos offers a fair amount of parking in its own parking lot. To avoid the usual snaking lines out the door, I timed my visit to coincide with the less crowded lunchtime. The interior is divided into three rooms, the pick-up / waiting area, the dining room and the bar. In total, there are 60-65 table seats for guests plus another ten chairs at the bar. The décor consists of natural woods and colors, and it is a very relaxing environment, whether seated at a table or in one of the booths.

The menu offers more than its legendary pizzas, including shareables, burgers, burritos, sandwiches, rice bowls and pastas, quite an eclectic array of options. But I was laser-focused on the pizza.

I ordered a small pie, half with sausage and the other half with pepperoni.

When the pizza arrived, the first thing I noticed was the high level of char. Not only was the crust overly charred in places, more than half of the cupped pepperoni circles were significantly darkened by the hot, wood-fired oven. The other item I noticed was the abundance of toppings, a lot of sauce and cheese, plus decent portions of pepperoni and sausage.

Pizzerias have several choices for the type of sausage they use, from crumbled to sliced to chunks, and I was pleased that Christo chose larger chunks; in my opinion, chunks give the best flavor and texture. I first removed and tried a piece of the sausage, and it was delicious, with noticeable fennel back notes. I next tasted one of the pepperoni slices and it delivered a nice level of spiciness. Both these meats were excellent, and I highly recommend. I next pulled a little smidgen of crust from the pie, and while several areas were heavily charred, the crust was really tasty.

After the pie cooled a bit (a big thank you to the server), I pulled a sausage slice away from the pie to check the underside, expecting more char to mimic the upper crust. I was surprised that it was dark tan color with minimal char marks. As I looked further towards the interior tip, I saw the unfortunate result of too much sauce and cheese, the crispness disappeared; there was no way it was going to withstand a lift and eat.

As much as I tried, it was impossible to lift (even by flopping the tip over), so it was onto plan B, cutting with my knife and fork. While the crust in the center was a little soggy, it still delivered great flavor, but there was a little too much sauce for my taste. With bite #2, I could now carefully lift the slice. While the sausage was able to handle the level of sauciness, the cheese took a serious back seat to the other two toppings. But my Bite #3 litmus test awaited, and by this time the slice had properly cooled. Result…the flavors melded much better and since we moved towards the outer crust the overall balance of the toppings was in better unison. It was a pretty good sausage slice. If I were to allocate the ingredients, I would say the sauce was sauce (50%), sausage (25%), cheese (15%) and the crust (10%), much too sauce-leaning.

Onto the other half. I was impressed with the cupping of the pepperoni (other than those that were burnt) and there was just a smidgen of oil in each. Even with the lighter weight of the pepperoni, it was impossible to lift the slice, and again I resorted to the fork and knife for bite #1. I liked the flavor balance with the spiciness of the pepperoni. The pepperoni side was better since the thin slices of pepperoni were bolder than the sausage. While the distribution of ingredients was similar to the sausage side, the pepperoni’s spiciness definitely created a more balanced taste; sauce (40%), sausage (35%), cheese (15%) and the crust (10%), better but still a little too sauce focused.

Overall, the basic tenets of the pizza at Christos were amazing, the crust, sauce, toppings were all delicious. While the kitchen tried to balance the crispiness of the crust and the charred edges with the level of toppings, they got a little ahead of themselves with too much sauce in the center of the pie. They also might have placed the pizza on the wrong spot in the oven (where a pizza was recently removed), which did not allow the crust to crisp properly in the center.

With the first visits to Connecticut’s self-proclaimed Three Kings of Pizza in the record book, I would rank them Luna (a 9.3), Christos (an 8.4), and Fuoco (a 7.5). 

Christos Restaurant & Bar

552 North Colony Rd

Wallingford CT 06492

203-294-4626

Charcoal Chef: A Nostalgic Dining Experience in Woodbury

One of my favorite shows growing up was The Twilight Zone. Most episodes included Rod Serling’s famous, “Imagine, if you will…” and his describing a “fifth dimension” between reality and imagination. I sometimes think of those days, a simpler time when life moved more slowly, where information was absorbed from the three-dimensional surroundings versus the two-dimensional computer screen, where families viewed eating out as a bonus, not as a Plan B because everyone was too tired to cook and when every meal was not measured by its TikTok and Instagram potential. Sometimes a restaurant is a place to bring family, outside the Internet measurements, outside the stars, likes and looks, and just serve simple fare at reasonable prices.

When I find a restaurant that brings that sense of peace, it deserves a call-out, not for its Michelin quality preparation and plating, but for its giving back to a different subset of America, the people that do not care if there is WIFI in the dining area, look forward to seeing what the blackboard specials for the night might bring to their table, and not looking for the computer-generated bill with three high-percentage tip recommendations.

Such a place is Charcoal Chef in Woodbury.

Imagine if you will…driving on a country road in central Connecticut, several miles north of a small town, which is several miles north of another small town that happens to be near an exit off I-84. You see a big sign (I almost feel that Huckleberry Finn had something to do with it) announcing CHARCOAL BROILED HOT DOGS HAMBURGERS SEA FOOD. Then you see the building, a simple side-of-the-road single-story building reminiscent of the 1950s, but with solar panels adorning the roof. You pull into the parking lot. They know their clientele, every parking spot immediately adjacent to the front doors is reserved for Blue Placard vehicles. There is plenty of parking surrounding the front entrances for others.

The real throwback occurs once you enter. The interior is large, seating almost 100 people on copy-paste chairs decorated in 1950s Mad Men décor, numerous shelves filled with items purchased from other side-of-the-road shops, plus a counter overlooking the kitchen that seats an additional nine guests on round swivel black vinyl NJ dine-style stools.

What also separates Charcoal Chef from other restaurants is its namesake charcoal-fired grill. While the rest of the open kitchen is standard, the chef can utilize a three-foot-by-three-foot brick base grill, which is filled with charcoal and topped with grates. This unusual addition allows the kitchen to give the food a little backyard smokey goodness.

I chose a small table where I could view the surroundings. My waitress (she would probably be upset if I used any other description than what she has heard for the last umpteen years) brought the advertisement-laden paper placemat, a well-used menu and asked for my drink order. Once I requested a hot dog, a BBQ burger (medium-rare) and French fries, she brought the water, fork and steak knife, plus an assortment of condiments, which have been used by a lot of other guests. I first noticed the Red Gold ketchup, never heard of. It was reminiscent of the Heinz squeeze bottle, with one difference, the words “For every bottle purchased, Red Gold donates to Folds of Honor, to educate, and support the families of our fallen heroes.” Love the thought and, BTW, it was just as good as Heinz.

Onto the food.

The BBQ burger was a bacon-cheeseburger (BBQ on the side for me) and was freshly ground meat and formed on site, it still had that freshly compacted texture. The cheese was basic American, with a few rashers of bacon, and two concentric onion rings, all in a decent bun. While I was asked for a requested doneness, I guess they all come out the same, cooked. Add a little salt and ketchup and you feel like you were eating at a Sunday church BBQ, as I said earlier, a simpler place.

The hot dog arrived on a toasted NE-style bun. It jutted out of both sides of the bun, approaching a true foot-long. It had a few good grill marks. I could see it was not all beef, but when I bit into it, it had a good “snap,” and the porky-spiciness was actually pretty good. It was one of the better dogs I have eaten in a while. I added a little mustard and relish, and I really enjoyed this simple dog.

After each bite I looked at the other patrons, nobody, and I mean nobody, was on their phone, none were googling, no children with headsets watching videos, only people chatting, people reading a newspaper (yes, the one in print), people giggling. My server was standing at her station working on a paper Sudoku while resting between taking orders and bringing food.

When I asked for the check, I sorta knew what to expect. It was hand-written, my hot dog, BBQ burger and French fries earned, in total, eight letters, 3 each for the hot dog and burger, with the French fries garnering a two-spot. The total for my meal did not reach $20, barely the same price as some appetizers and salads at other places.

As I left, I took notice of the whiteboard specials, the Bronzino dinner was $28 with some Street Corn Chowder (I just paid double that in FL). But what really caught my eye were the ice cream flavors, they started with a traditional Butter Pecan but swerved immediately to the left with Extra Large Cookies, Hot Honey (go figure), Bourbon Oatmeal, and Tony’s Cakes. Huh? These flavors were like the solar panels on the roof, between reality and imagination.

While Charcoal Chef will not make my go-to rotation for its cuisine, my time there was memorable, the staff was incredibly friendly, the food was pretty OK, but the enjoyable part was the peace and feeling of a different time, when a restaurant was there for a family gathering to enjoy the meal. For that…“thanks for the memories.”

Denmo’s Snack and Dairy (Southbury) – Basic Side of the Road Burgers & Dogs

Denmo’s Snack and Dairy is located on south Main Street in Southbury and has been serving the area for over forty years. I heard mixed feedback about the food, but I kept reading a few positive anecdotes on their hot dogs, and given its proximity and my build-up of internal curiosity I decided to drive to check out the burgers, dogs and fries. While it was an not extraordinary experience, it was a decent visit. There was nothing wrong with the food, per se, but there was nothing good about it either. It was basic burgers and dogs with a couple of bright spots.

When I arrived, I saw the chalk board menu with lots of additional items from the on-line menu. I first noticed a significant difference. While the website still touts the “foot long” dog, the chalk board eliminated any reference to a quantifiable dimension, but now stated “long.” I ordered with relish, mustard and sauerkraut (this is “the works” less the raw onion). I also ordered a single cheeseburger with fried onions and a side of fries.

The dog – The chalkboard is correct, the foot-long is gone. The dog juts a bit from both ends of the roll, so my guess would be a 10”. The roll is a New England meets Texas toast that has been nicely griddled on the exterior. The mustard, relish and mustard were nicely applied. The dog, itself was split and there was a bit of a char. On first bit I was non-impressed. There was nothing to speak of on the flavor from. No smokiness, no saltiness, no pop, no nothing. It was a mildly bland dog. The mustard was not Gulden’s but some run of the mill variety and I would guess the somewhat tasteless relish and kraut were as well. There was nothing bad, just nothing good.

The burger – I have to commend Denmo’s on the preparation. The meat was loosely formed into the patty and even given it’s 4-ounce pre-cooked weight, they were able to have a tinge of pink in the center. Likewise, the cheese was nicely melted. The taste was, or should I say tasteless, aspect, of the burger was its downfall. Again, nothing bad, just nothing to really like. Now here is my one “I liked” and it was the grilled onions. They were very flavorful, soft and the highlight of the visit.

The fries – if you want to talk about zero love, think these out of the freezer, into the oil, fries. No seasoning, no nothing. My guess is some middle schoolers were assigned to the frier and they were tik-tok’ing. And Denmo’s did not help by offering the cheapest ketchup packets their purveyor could sell them.

Overall, I checked the box, went to Denmo’s, tried their burger, dog and fries and can move on. While others may enjoy the treats, I will probably not place on my return list.

Discover Crust Issues: Creative Pizza Styles in Norwalk

I have been a fan of John Nealon for years. As one of the original co-founders of Fortina, he brought one of my all-time pizzas to the forefront, the Luigi Bianco, now The LB. Fast forward ten years and several stops in between, John and his wife, Morgan, embarked on creating a newly devised structure to the mega-century old pizza. While Nutmeggers are blessed with tons of options to enjoy perfect styles of pizza, on my visit to Crust Issues on Connecticut Ave in Norwalk, I was introduced to a slightly different version, one that grabs elements from Neelon’s past, as well as non-apizza styles.

If you blink you will miss the parking area for Crust Issues on Connecticut Avenue in Norwalk, CT. On a cloudy afternoon I found myself with a little time and was able to venture to Crust Issues to see and taste for myself John’s vision. The interior is somewhat unique, there is a self-service mini-bar with cocktails, sodas and water and a counter to order. The menu includes a few smaller dishes, from meatballs, garlic knots, sandwiches and salads, a couple of entrees, and sandwiches and then the main event…the pizza. 

On my visit I ordered a half-pepperoni and half sausage, grabbed a bottle of water and sat at a table watching one of two extra-large TVs.

The pizza arrived nestled in a rectangular rimmed sheet pan. The construction was sorta a combination of pan, Detroit, and thin, and it stretched completely to the edges of the pan. The first noticeable visual were the edges, they had significant charring, not from charred crust but charred cheese. I was not sure how this was going to play with the other flavors. Sitting atop the crust was the sauce, cheese and then my toppings. The next item I noticed was the shapes of both the sausage and pepperoni. The were quarter-circles, I have never seen this ever. The last item I noticed was the thickness of the crust. It was about ¼” thick and extremely rigid, more a crunchy toast versus a pizza crust.

The first order of business was the meats. I tasted a piece of the sausage, and it was great, next, a piece of the pepperoni and again, great. As I lifted one of the corner pieces to check the bottom, I saw another surprise; some of the cheese had seeped under the crust and melted along the bottom edge and the cheese-charring was very present along the bottom edge. But the real test is in the eating. I grabbed a slice from the pepperoni side, and it was fantastic. The flavors were in perfect balance, a little spiciness in the sauce, creaminess in the cheese and then a little more kick from the pepperoni. Could the sausage side compare? Yes it could; the sausage slice was equal in every aspect of the flavor, spiciness and balance. The toppings were perfect in every way.

Now my take on the crust, and I agree with the name of the restaurant. I had crust issues. I was not a fan of this attempt to create a new type of crust, it was too hard for my taste and definitely detracted from the greatness on top. Others may really like the extra-crispiness, but not for me as much.

Overall, I loved Crust Issues, the flavors and balance were perfect, just not a fan of the over-crunchiness of the crust. I give the toppings a 10, but the harshness of the crust brings the overall score to a 9.0, still pretty freakin’ great.

60 Connecticut Avenue, Norwalk

203.939.7171, Instagram: @crustissues203

Bagel Bros: Exploring Oxford’s Best Bagel Choices

Bagels, Bagels, Bagels!!!

This simple rendition of mix, rise, boil, bake has numerous interpretations and toppings and has captured the imagination of breakfast lovers for over 400 years. It has been ages since a bagel shop appeared in Oxford, CT, and, after seeing the “Coming Soon” sign for months, purchasing fresh bagels in Oxford is now a reality with the opening of Bagel Bros & Company second location in the David K mall at 144 Oxford Rd.

Bagel Bros has numerous options to satisfy both the traditionalists and those looking for more funky options, whether plain, sesame, salt, onion, poppy, blueberry, cinnamon raisin, cinnamon sugar, egg, jalapeno cheddar, whole wheat, everything, egg everything, whole wheat everything, garlic, and French toast. There are quite few combinations to choose from, and Bagel Bros. does not skimp on the toppings of either the sesame or poppy seeds, they were loaded.

Now the tricky part, what type of bagel was Bagel Bros going to serve? I will break the two buckets into two categories, crispy versus soft exterior and poofy versus doughy interior. The website states “FRESH, DOUGHY NY-STYLE BAGELS,” so the latter was already decided.

Onto the taste tests…

I first ordered a sesame seed with butter, which carried a $2.75 price tag. My bagel arrived quickly, and the first bite definitely confirmed the doughy interior. The exterior also fell squarely into the soft versus crunchy option. The flavor was pretty good, not overwhelming, a little salty, and it would have benefitted from a little more butter, maybe cream cheese would also be a good choice. On opening day, they did a really good job.

On my second visit, I chose a variety of options to bring home and try. Toasting each helped release more goodliness and crisped the exterior. The saltiness in the plain bagel was still a little too much for my taste, but when I switched to the egg, it seemed a little less salty, as well as more flavorful. The only non-traditional that I tried was the cinnamon-raisin, and it was very good with a little dollop of cream cheese.

After a few days, they still have to iron out some of the kinks, but if my neighbors in the Oxford area are looking for soft, chewy bagels, Bagel Bros has arrived.

BagelBros&Co

(203) 513-202

SHELTON: 350 Howe Ave, Shelton, CT 06484

OXFORD:  144 Oxford Rd, Oxford, CT 06478

info@bagelbrosandco.com

Review: Coal-Fired Apizza at Fuoco in Cheshire

In my continued search for worthy off-the-beaten-path haunts in “the Valley” I kept seeing a few great reviews of yet another pizza place just southeast of Waterbury, Fuoco in Cheshire. Between the enormous billboard on the interstate touted by a pizza app and other recommendations on my social media feeds, it quickly moved up my gotta-try list. As the summer months began to wane, I decided to head to Fuoco and see if the hype was justified. 

Located three-and-a-half miles south of I84 from exit 26, Fuoco invites patrons into its white-faced, single-story building with a sign emblazoned with “Fuoco Coal Fired Apizza.” The sign beckons the palate with “coal fired” and “apizza.” 

The single dining area consists of a long banquette along the entire right wall, with seating for twenty-five guests. The ordering and cooking areas are behind the walls to the left. Parking and a rear entrance make for an easy visit, whether dining in or for a take-away. In the warmer months, there are four tables on the front patio.

The menu is primarily pizza, with a few wings, salads, sharables and a calzone mixed in. On my visit, I was completely focused on the pizzas, which can be ordered in pre-determined combinations, with or without red sauce, plus you can “design it yourself” with almost two dozen toppings. I ordered a small (12”) red pie with pepperoni on one half and sausage and peppers on the other. She asked me if I wanted green or red roasted peppers, and I chose the latter. 

When the pie was delivered, it showed a nicely charred finish, a few blackened bubbles indicated good heat in the ovens. When I lifted to see the undercarriage, I was also impressed with the amount of char. The one item that made me a little nervous was the level of toppings, this was a much more heavily laden pie than a traditional New Haven style. 

Onto the real test. 

Let’s start with the good news, the half with the pepperoni. There was a medium to high level of cheese and when I pulled the first slice, a few cheese strands needed a little more coaxing to leave the pie. I first tasted the crust. It was good, not as great as some of the others I have eaten over the last few months, but very much above average. The pepperoni rings were slightly cupped, but instead of the traditional oil in the cups, there was some melted mozzarella. I pulled a few pepperonis to taste. The edges were slightly crisped, and there was a medium to medium-high level of spiciness, they were delicious. The amount of sauce and cheese could have been somewhat less, but the bite of the pepperoni side brought a smile to my face. It was a great combination, with the pepperoni carrying the entire slice to the finish line. The balance was pepperoni (40%), sauce (30%), cheese (25%), and crust (5%). This was definitely a great slice of pepperoni pizza.

I was hoping for the same from the sausage half. The sausage chunks (my favorite way to serve sausage pizza) were in various sizes, and the weight caused a bit of a flop at the point, but overall, the crust held pretty well. I first tried a large chunk of the sausage. It had a decent fennel flavor, but could definitely use additional seasoning. My guess was the roasted red peppers were not roasted on-premises (too bad with a coal oven) as they gave that vinegary jar flavor. Now for the first bite. There was a lot of delicious, sweet-flavored tomato sauce and a little too much cheese and they sorta overpowered the sausage and peppers. The balance definitely went to the sauce (40%), cheese (30%), peppers (15%), sausage (10%), crust (5%). Unfortunately, it was not as great as the pepperoni slices.

Overall, it was a tale of two sides. I really liked the pepperoni slices; the pepperoni had great flavor and spiciness, and both could handle the abundance of the sweet sauce and the amount of cheese Fuoco placed on the pie. The sausage and pepper side was not in the same category. I was hoping for more flavor in the sausage and a deeper sweetness from the red peppers. Likewise, with a coal-fired oven, I expected a more flavorful crust. In Connecticut, when you use the words “coal fired apizza,” you are competing at an Olympic-like level, and each ingredient needs to be fantastic. While I would definitely recommend Fuoco, it could be even better with a few adjustments.

461 W Main St, Cheshire, CT 06410

(203) 272-2749

https://fuocoapizza.com

Gioia New Haven: Unforgettable Italian Dining and Culinary Excellence

I have grown especially fond of Gioia since its opening last year and my most recent visit confirmed the opinion that Chef Avi Szapiro is killing it with his food. In addition to the spectacular cuisine, Gioia offers a relaxed and incredibly vibrant environment, making for one of the best dining experiences in the New Haven area. 

Located on Wooster Street in New Haven’s bustling Italian neighborhood, Gioia offers an incredible alternative to the pizza nirvana of the street. Upon entering the dining area, you are greeted by soaring ceilings, banquettes, tables, a vibrant bar area, a chef’s table overlooking the kitchen and a private table in the back room, which also holds Gioia’s Market. A recently opened second level, rooftop has additional bar-type seating.

A major storm caused us to arrive much earlier than our reservation, and the hostesses were more than helpful in seating us when we arrived. We were given one of the side banquettes that can accommodate four people, so our threesome had more than enough room to appreciate all the cuisine.

While we relaxed and reviewed the menu, we enjoyed the bread service. The density of the bread was wonderful ,and the pieces slowly absorbed the olive oil that accompanied the slices. The bread was great on its own, and even better when used to finish the pomodoro sauce from the meatballs.

A must starter is the MEATBALLS, which includes three golf-ball size balls sitting in a Pomodoro sauce and topped with shaved Parmesan cheese. It was delicious. The meatballs were incredibly flavorful, and I used the extra bread to ensure I enjoyed every last drop of the spectacular pomodoro sauce. The shaved Parmesan was one of the best I have ever tasted.

For a more refreshing appetizer, I highly recommend the GIOIA SALAD, which includes a seasonal mix of greens, lightly tossed with lemon juice and oil and topped with the same Parmesan shards. This was a mound of delicious and sweet greens, perfectly crisped and lightly dressed with oil and lemon. The greens were some of the most delicious I have ever eaten and the parm was over the top perfect.

Another salad option is the FENNEL CITRUS SALAD, which is a full bowl of shaved fennel topped with orange and grapefruit pieces. The fennel was mild, avoiding the sometimes over-anise accented variety and the orange and grapefruit segments added great counterbalancing notes with the toasted fennel seeds contributing a little nuttiness and additional crunch. I really liked this salad as well.

For our entrees, we ordered three different dishes. 

The MAFALDINE CACCIATORE is Gioia’s interpretation of this classic Italian dish. It is served with farro pasta, chicken, mushroom, olives, sage and topped with Parmesan cheese shreds. My mistake was swapping the farro pasta for the straight rigatoni, since the farro nuttiness would have been better to complete the flavor profile. The braised chicken was delicious, and a touch of the braising liquid offered the sauce for the dish. To complete the Sunday-ness of the pasta, the mushrooms were a great addition. I really liked this dish. The next time I would follow the chef’s advice and stay with the recommended farro pasta. 

Others ordered the SALMON OVER GAZPACHO, a perfectly grilled piece of salmon atop a gazpacho. The gazpacho was bright and flavorful, incredibly sweet from the emulsified peppers. Another ordered the WHOLE BRANZINO WITH SALSA VERDE. This is the first time I have seen a whole fish served boneless, it was so easy to eat. The fish was stuffed with lemons, parsley and tarragon, all of which infused their incredible flavors into the fish. This entree is easily enough for two people to share.

Make sure you save room for dessert. I recommend the CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY SEMIFREDDO, which is served with crispy chocolate, and pistachio crumble. The semifreddo was delicious, chocolatey on the interior and surrounded by a thin layer of chocolate jutting from the plate. The accompanying crispy chocolate pieces and pistachio crumbles were both great. We were also given a CANNOLI WITH STRAWBERRIES AND GELATO. All I can say is Wow! The shell was superb, and the creamy filling was even better. Chopping the shell required some work, but it was well worth the effort, maybe the best shell ever. The filling was ultra-creamy and beyond delicious. Without a doubt the best cannoli anywhere.

Service was spot-on, friendly, informative and professional.

Overall, this was one of the best dining experiences I have enjoyed in a long time, and I look forward to returning for even more great meals.

Little Rendezvous: Authentic 130+ Year Old Coal-Fired-Oven Pizza in Meriden, CT

The year was 1888. The Civil War was twenty-three years in the past and the Model A was fifteen years in the future, the Statue of Liberty and Washington Monuments were recently dedicated, the US population stood at 50 million, the Standard Oil Company and AT&T were new companies, the Brooklyn Bridge was opened, and newly created Coca Cola was the talk of the south.

In the small town of Matteawan, NY, overlooking the Hudson River, Oven Number 312 was manufactured by the Dutchess Tool Company and sold to F Duhrkop of Meriden, CT. Until the late 1930s, the oven-baked bread at the Pratt Street location, and in 1938 the Verdolini family, forced to relocate its downtown business to Pratt Street, started baking pizza. In 1946, the business was sold to Tony Pascucci who changed the name to the Little Rendezvous. Over seventy-five years later, under the tutelage of its seventh owner, Steve Chehotsky, the Little Rendezvous is now producing one of the best, if not the best, pizza in CT, in one of the state’s longest, continuous-running coal ovens.

Little Rendezvous is still located on Pratt Street in Meriden, a very cute town southeast of Waterbury off Route 691. The small, white building is remarkably quaint, with two large 3 over 3 paned windows, a single center door a large sign above the door with “120 year old coal-fired brick oven” and a second sign “Brick Oven Pizza.” They are very proud of their heritage and the oven.

Little Rendezvous is probably the least heralded pizza restaurant in Connecticut, yet at times, the wait can be over three hours, yes, over three hours from order to delivery. The regulars, who have enjoyed these pies for decades, understand that if they do not follow the “Pro Tips,” they will miss the chance of grabbing one of the more than 100 pies created daily. 

I wanted to time my arrival before the lunch rush, and I felt comfortable when I arrived at 1145 with only two cars parked in front. My hopes were heightened when I entered and there were only two people in the dining room. Then I saw the first sign, “FUN FACT #32 AN EMPTY DINING ROOM DOES NOT MEAN WE ARE SLOW!!!” Now I was a little nervous. I approached the ordering counter and was greeted with, “Did you call ahead?” Oh no, did I screw up? When I asked how long, I was happily told that it would be a 35 to 40-minute wait, whew, not a big deal at all. I ordered a small half sausage, half pepperoni. Now to relax and wait.

Little Rendezvous has three rooms. The front area includes a long bench attached to the wall behind four 4-tops, with basic folding chairs facing the wall, a single round table that seats an additional three guests, and a shelf table with two chairs. The middle room is a connecting hallway (put in place to connect the two buildings in 1938) with shelves stocked with hundreds of pizza boxes. The back room is the epicenter. There is an ordering counter with one person manning the phones, taking face-to-face orders, slicing the pizza, bringing pizza to the dining area, and settling the bills. His ordering system consists of a spiral notebook divided into 15-minute increments. When an order is received, he places it in the outbound time slot. Upon my order at 1150, I was assigned the 1230 box. 

Behind the ordering counter is where the magic is made. Steve, the owner-pizzaiola-master, calmly creates one pie at a time. First, he stretches the dough very thin, then he carefully swirls two ladles of sauce, a few pinches of grated Parmesan cheese, and a couple of handfuls of shredded cheese. He carefully finishes the pie with layers of the requested toppings atop the shredded cheese and into the oven for 10-12 minutes. 

The oven is cavernous, at least 10-12 feet deep. On the floor in front of the oven is a pile of coal. The coal chamber sits to the right and when they opened it for me it was blazing hot with a mound of burning coal.

I waited in the dining area, and promptly as promised the pizza arrived. It looked great. I waited a few minutes to allow the pie to cool a bit. I decided to first try a sausage slice. I slowly slid one to check the bottom. With the edges charred, I thought I would see lots of black below. Nope, it was a consistent, dark beige. Now the lift. It held perfectly with a slight droop at the edge, and all the toppings stayed intact. Excellent construction.

My first bite was teeny-weeny out of respect for the roof of my mouth. Even with the tiniest of bites, I was impressed. Steve mentioned that he spends a lot of time with the sausage, and it showed. There was an enormous amount of flavor, not too spicy, just enough to take notice and the spiciness lingered after the bite. As the slice cooled and my bites became larger, I was more and more impressed. The balance definitely leaned towards sausage, if I were to divide, it would be 60% sausage, 15% sauce, 15% cheese, and 10% crust. As I have mentioned before, I am a chunk versus crumbled person, but I absolutely loved this slice.

With the sausage side in the record book, I moved to the pepperoni. The slices of pepperoni were 50% cupped, with just a dollop of oil in each, this is what I always look for, and this was the proper amount. My first bite was a full try since the pizza was now cooled. Wow, this was another great slice of pizza. The pepperoni was on the same spice profile as the sausage, just a nice level that kicked in and then trailed off. Different from the full coverage of sausage, the amount of pepperoni was more genteel, it allowed the cheese and sauce to participate more. The balance was perfect. The taste divide was 40% pepperoni, 25% cheese, 25% sauce and 10% crust. It was a slice of cheese pizza with pepperoni versus a slice of sausage pizza.

After enjoying my lunch, I spent a little time with Steve as he filled other orders. He started as a 15-year-old in the late 1980s and purchased the business about fifteen years ago. While he would not tell me the exact number of pies produced daily, he alluded to more than 100 and less than 200. The dough and sauce are made in-house, and he takes great pain in preparing the sausage. He was super friendly, and not only do you feel great about eating his great pizza, but he is the kind of friendly and customer-focused business owner that you want to give your hard-earned money to.

Overall, this is one of the best pizzas of my life. I do not want to get into the comparisons with other great pizzas in CT, we are all really lucky to have great options. Suffice it to say, Little Rendezvous definitely occupies one of my five fingers in the best of the best.

The Little Rendezvous

256 Pratt St.

Meriden, CT 06451

203.235.0110

Café Melba: Chef Dan Kardos’ Unforgettable Tastes and Relaxed Atmosphere

I’ve been following Chef Dan Kardos for over a decade, through his days in Stamford, New Canaan, SONO, and his march north up I-95. His latest venture, Café Melba, in Milford, is a testament to his always doing things his way. Anyone who knows Kardos understands his way is always his way. And I am glad he placed “his way” in the food at Café Melba. 

Assisting Kardos at Café Melba is his wonderful wife, Julie, who oversees the front of the house. On each of our visits, she was overwhelmingly pleasant, brought us to our table, offered water to our Service Dog, and offered her guidance on our choices. 

On our latest visit, with the temperatures in the 80s, we decided to take advantage of the patio. When we walked through the doors, we were shocked by its size. While other restaurants have a smattering of tables, Café Melba’s patio can accompany almost 70 guests, with 6-8 picnic benches, high tops and cocktail table seating.

A fair amount has been written recently about the Chicken Sandwich. I looked through my notes and it’s been seven and a half years since I first wrote about Dan’s chicken sandwich at Liberty Rock Tavern, and the current version is even better. More about that later since we were there for more than the chicken.

We started with two appetizers.

The Tuna tartare was large chunks of freshly cut tuna served atop two toasted slices of bread with a mildly spicy aioli, sesame seeds and baby micro-greens. The tuna was fresh and incredibly flavorful. And then the other elements kicked in. The aioli was the perfect complement to the tuna with a little kick and some creaminess to offset its spiciness. The dish was finished with a touch of spicy oil to add just a little more kick and flavor. The microgreens were a delightful addition. 

In addition, we ordered the Burrata Caprese. This dish also started with a couple of slices of grilled bread, which was the canvas for the burrata, peppers, prosciutto and arugula, and then topped with olive oil and balsamic glaze. The dish had several complementary elements that worked to create an incredible dish. The thinly sliced prosciutto was mildly salty to offset the creaminess of the burrata and the peppers added a wonderful, sweet component. The arugula and balsamic were a fantastic method to bring everything together. This was a great Caprese.

Then I moved on to the main event, the Chicken sandwich. It was as great as all the press has written. The chicken, itself, was a majorly think chicken breast perfectly deep fried for that great crunchy exterior and juicy interior. This was topped with melted American cheese, ranch dressing, bacon and pickles, all encased within two thick slices of toast. Nothing more today other than this combo absolutely nailed it. The chicken was beyond delicious and then the bacon and dressing kicked in with smoky, creamy, and pungent. The combo continued with the vinegary pickles. And not enough is said about the choice of bread, thick slices were perfectly toasted and fully capable of holding all the ingredients together for each mouth-watering bite. This was a super great sandwich.

Café Melba, under Dan and Julie Kardos, is an absolute must for anyone looking for some great food in an ultra-relaxed setting.

Cafe Melba 232 Melba St, Milford, CT 06460

Vincenzo’s Pizzeria in Waterbury: A Hidden Gem for Delicious Pizza and More

I’ve been looking for some great burger and pizza places in “the Valley,” and noticed a few references to a pizza place in Waterbury, Vincenzo’s Pizzeria. Looking at their website, I thought it would be like numerous other local Italian restaurants, where I could order a pie, maybe a Parm, sit at one of their tables, and enjoy a quiet lunch.

Fast forward to my visit. Vincenzo’s is located about a mile south of I-84’s Chase Parkway exit in Waterbury. As I left the Interstate, I drove through a neighborhood that reminded me of where I grew up, two-story houses, not a lot of commerce, and a sense of community. As my waze went under a quarter of a mile until I arrived at Vincenzo’s, things began to change slightly, I noticed several patio dining areas with white tablecloths jutting from white-painted two-storied restaurants named La Tavola and D’Amelios Italian Eatery, it reminded me of several great neighborhood Italian restaurants from my youth. 

I slowed as I approached one of Waterbury’s firehouses, looking for another white tableclothed restaurant. But there across the street, on the corner of Highland and Fairfield Avenues was a single-story, red-painted structure, with a couple of weather-worn signs. I had arrived at Vincenzo’s Pizzeria. Vincenzo’s also has a front patio, but at the time of my visit a few weeks before Memorial Day, there were no tablecloths, and it did not appear to be open. I looked for the parking area and saw a small lot behind the building that probably held six cars, one reserved for the delivery vehicle. 

I entered through the rear and found myself in a teeny-tiny ordering area, probably six feet by eight feet, with a couple of folding chairs, one blocking the door to the dining room with a hand-written sign that read “Dining Area open Friday and Saturday nights.” At the far end was an ordering counter that doubled as the window to the kitchen, and seated on a bridge chair on the other side of the plexiglass was a sweet, elderly lady, who wrote all the orders on a pad to hand to the kitchen staff. 

I ordered a small pizza, half sausage, and half pepperoni. She wrote “roni” and I smiled. I waited in my car for the suggested 15 minutes and returned as my pie was vacating the oven and into the traditional red & white box. It was now showtime.

When I opened the box, I was impressed, Vincenzo’s does not skimp on the amount of toppings, every millimeter was occupied by one of my two requested toppings. I first noticed the sausage, it was the crumbled variety, different from my preferred chunks, but better than slices. The ‘roni was slightly cupping, not a full-out cup-with-oil, but a medium cup and, yes, there was some oil in the cup. 

The edges look perfectly browned and when I checked the underside, it was likewise a beautiful darkish tan. I tasted the edge crust, and it was light, airy, and great flavor. The first lift of the sausage slice was, again, impressive. It held together with just a little tilt at the inner point. Now for the test and the bites. The first bite produced a slight crunch of the crust, and the sausage delivered light to medium spice, and the proportion of sausage to cheese to sauce was slightly leaning toward the sausage. This first bite was great. I waited for the cooling effect and then my normal Third Bite Test, it passed with flying colors. This was a really good slice of pie.

Now onto the ‘roni side. The slice was equally delicious, the pepperoni was slightly spicy at first and then the spiciness sorta lingered and intensified. This side also passed the Third Bite Test with flying colors. In fact, the proportions were slightly better than the sausage side, which allowed the sauce and cheese to play a more dominant role in the flavors.

Overall, Vincenso’s is a great off-the-beaten-path stop for a great pie and I will definitely return and try some of the other items on the menu. 

Vincenzo’s Pizzeria

752 Highland Ave

Waterbury, CT 06708

203-574-5300

203-574-5800