Post 154 (Westport) – Bold Flavors Dominate Menu

Posted on November 3, 2013 by jfoodeats

I recently attended a press dinner at Post 154 to sample numerous selections from its award winning Chef Alex Rosado’s introductory menu. Overall the dishes were visually artistic in their construct and many presented delicious flavors.

All reviews of Post 154 must include a little history of the building. The 1935 cornerstone outside the entrance commemorates the site’s original purpose as the Westport Post Office, constructed under The New Deal during the Great Depression. Architect Lansing Colton Holden Jr., a World War I flying ace who was awarded the Distinguished Service Cross, designed the building upon his return from battle. The building’s new ownership redesigned the spacious interior with a combination of wood paneling, flowing drapes and relics from the early 1900’s surrounding the tables. A large U-Shaped bar, with over 250 seats, occupies the entire left side and leads to an inviting patio that allows for al fresco dining in warmer weather.

Overseeing the kitchen is Chef Alex Rosado. After graduating from The Culinary School at The Art Institute of Atlanta, Chef Alex worked at several outstanding Atlanta and Florida restaurants. Most recently, he was the Executive Chef at The Dining Room at Little Palm Island Resort & Spa, winning numerous accolades from Zagat’s and fellow chefs. Chef Alex’s opening menu at Post 154 is reflective of his Puerto Rican roots, and expands on the chef’s boldness in fusing flavors and ingredients from other regions.

The event started with three “Small Plates;” the “Portuguese Octopus” with avocado, red chili sauce and EVOO, “The Bowl of Mussels” with Chorizo, shallots, roasted garlic in a saffron wine broth, and “Lobster Quesadillas” with huitlacoche, Queso Chihuahua, salsa and avocado. The octopus was outstanding. Chef Alex braised the octopus for four hours before marinating in a key lime vinaigrette. The texture of the octopus was soft and delicate, a major accomplishment, and the red chili sauce added a touch of spice. I also enjoyed the mussels, which were large and served in a slightly spiced broth. The lobster quesadilla was not to my liking. The lobster was overwhelmed by the bold flavors of the other ingredients..

Shortly thereafter, the table received the “Eggplant Meatball Parmesan,” the “Duck Confit Taquitos” and a portion of “St. Louis Style Ribs.” The eggplant meatballs and the duck taquitos were outstanding. The meatballs were served in tomato gravy with three cheeses, truffles and herbs. They were soft and luscious and were delicious when combined with the tomato gravy and melted cheeses.The duck taquitos were rolled tortillas filled with a slow roasted duck, lightly deep fried and served with roasted tomato salsa, guacamole, and Cojita cheese sitting atop tomato salsa. The duck filling was rich in flavor and the guacamole and fried tortillas provided delightful textural differences. The ribs were paired with Chili BBQ sauce, liquid black beans and mango stew. The meat was very tender and moist but somewhat tasteless, while the Chili BBQ sauce provided excellent flavor.

The meal continued at a good pace with the arrival of the “Golden Corn Bisque” with grilled corn, crème fraiche and chives. This was one of the best bisques I have eaten. Chef Alex prepared the stock from the corn cobs, added the cooked kernels and pureed for thickness. He finished the soup with a few grilled kernels and a dollop of crème fraiche. The bisque was delicious, and the crème fraiche added the correct amount of tang to the soup.

At this point the service slowed to a painful crawl. While the first three courses arrived within 90 minutes the three entrees arrived intermittently over the next 90 minutes. The first entrees to arrive were the “Scallops & Grits” and the “Salmon.” The “Scallops & Grits” was served with spinach, smoked ham jus, and topped with Tabasco Crisps, and delivered some delightful flavors. The scallop was sweet and perfectly seared, and the course-ground grits and ham jus were very good. I liked the flavors of each of the ingredients but I was not as fond of their combination. The “Salmon“ was paired with pickled fennel, smoked tomato coulis, and maple lime butter. The combination of flavors did not work. The sweet maple butter was too sweet and the pickled fennel did not complement the salmon.

After another extended wait the “Guava BBQ Pork Tenderloin” with a black bean stew and the “C.A.B. Churrasco Steak” with Argentinian Chimichurri arrived with a few side dishes. The pork tenderloin was delicious. The exterior of the pork loin was rubbed with a spicy blend and cooked perfectly to medium. The black bean stew complemented the spiciness of the pork. I was not fond of the steak, which was very fatty, and sat in too much oil from the Chimichurri, which was more onion and oil versus the traditional vinegar based sauce.

The menu also contains numerous sweet desserts to end the meal. They include “Apple Empanadas” with a red hot cinnamon dip and liquid cream cheese, a “Chocolate Flan” with Tuaca fired oranges, and a Tres Leches with wild berry stew.

Overall many of the creative dishes that Chef Alex prepared were outstanding, and the Post 154’s extensive menu of nearly thirty-five different choices of small plates, soups, salads and entrees allows each guest to construct a meal to satisfy any appetite. On a Thursday night the restaurant and bar were both packed and the vibe was fantastic. If you carefully select from Chef Alex’s bold creations you will have a memorable meal, but the kitchen needs to work on the pace of the courses leaving the kitchen.

Review originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/11/3/post-154-opens-in-westport-in-old-post-office-building.html?SSScrollPosition=0

Really Liked – Portuguese Octopus, Eggplant Meatball Parmesan, Duck Confit Taquitos, Golden Corn Bisque, Guava BBQ Pork Tenderloin;

Liked -The Bowl of Mussels;

Did Not Like – Lobster Quesadillas, St. Louis Style Ribs, Scallops & Grits, Salmon, C.A.B. Churrasco Steak.

154 Post Road East, Westport, CT, 06880 – (203) 454-0154

This review was originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/11/3/post-154-opens-in-westport-in-old-post-office-building.html

Borough (MSP) – Delivers Some Great Dishes

Posted on October 26, 2013 by jfoodeats

Located on North Washington at the southeast corner of N. 8th Ave., Borough is pleasing to both the eye and the palate. The interior is beautifully designed with dark woods throughout and leather and plaids cover the chairs and banquettes. The chandeliers include converted graters and antiqued copper shades illuminating the space with a soft and inviting light. Mirrors adorn a tiled wall, a large collage of distressed 8×8 railroad ties cover the far wall with a long highly polished reclaimed wood table under the railroad ties.

On my initial visit I ordered two dishes, the “Pork Belly” for an appetizer and the “Swordfish” for my entrée.

The “Pork Belly” was served with butternut squash, Brussels sprouts, wild rice and maple. The pork belly was two separate preparations in one piece; one side was succulent and delicious with a touch of BBQ sauce, while the other was a little over-salted and not as satisfying. The butternut squash was creamy and delightful and worked perfectly with the crunchy roasted wild rice that sat atop. A couple of shallot “hearts” accompanied the wild rice and they added a slight spice to the sweetness of the squash. The shaved Brussels sprouts were delicious, with great flavor, and offered a slight crunchiness to the dish.

The “Swordfish” was grilled and served with smoked tomato grits, clams, salsa verde and caponata. The two small cubes (about 2-ounces each) of swordfish were cooked to medium-rare, still translucent on the interior. The texture was wonderful, firm, yet soft, and the flavor was mild and complemented every other item on the plate. The ingredient not mentioned on the menu was the centerpiece of the accompaniments, escarole. It delivered a nice little kick of spiciness and when combined with the grape tomatoes and the corn kernels, was delicious. The smoked tomato grits was formed into a small triangle and fried. It was a delicious addition. The caponata added a good level of saltiness. The clams were not necessary; they did not add anything to the dish

Service was fantastic. My server is the benchmark for others in MSP, he knew the menu, was comfortable in making recommendations and if he did not have an opinion of an item that was added that day he was honest. He recommended the swordfish and I was incredibly grateful since it was delicious.

Borough is a great place for some incredibly creative dishes in a very cool atmosphere.

Eclectic Luncheonette and Catering Opens in New Canaan

Posted on October 25, 2013 by jfoodeats

A stop at the newly opened Eclectic Luncheonette and Catering on Vitti Street offered a glimpse into the cuisine that owner/chef Robert Milano will bring to the east end of downtown New Canaan. The periwinkle exterior adds a bright, southern feel to this residential-commercial street; an inviting beginning to any visit. The interior is more sterile, offering 22 seats and a long counter where orders are placed.

The lunch menu consists of various salad combinations, sandwiches with melted cheese, soufflés and desserts. Most tend to include fried ingredients or cheese so be careful if you are looking for a lower caloric lunch; you can create your own salad from a list of a dozen ingredients.

My lunch started with a cup of the house made “Tomato Bisque.” The tomato-ey flavor was rich and delicious, the texture was silky from the addition of cream, and the diced scallions added a nice crunch with just a touch of spiciness.

Accompanying the soup was a “Beef Ossobuco Jalapeño Raspberry” sandwichserved on buttered and grilled Italian bread with melted white cheddar cheese and finished with a Jalapeño Raspberry BBQ sauce. The meat was delightfully tender. The sauce was very sweet and I would have preferred more spiciness from the Jalapeño peppers. The melted cheese was mild and added a little smoothness and the small slices of toasted bread were first schmeared with salted butter and grilled. Overall this was a very tasty sandwich.

Last, but not least, was the “Plain Corn Soufflé” (the menu allows for one of several toppings). This was more a quiche consistency than a soufflé, the filling was creamy, was full of flavor and a good addition to complete lunch. The corn added a good level of crunchiness to the dish.

With a few days under his belt Chef Robert is creating some interesting combinations. Hopefully the menu will expand to include lighter choices and the décor will develop into a softer, more relaxed atmosphere to appeal to the New Canaan lunch crowd.

This review was originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/10/24/sneak-peek-at-eclectic-luncheonette-in-new-canaan.html

Guvnor’s Brewery (SONO) – Great Fries with a Side of Burger

Posted on October 19, 2013 by jfoodeats

Guvnor’s Brewery was a mere month old when I visited to try a burger and fries. I arrived at 215, the lunch crowd was onto other activities and I was a solo in the restaurant. Channeling Norm from “Cheers” I sat at the end of the bar and ordered “The Guvnor’s Burger,” described as “Our Signature Meat Blend, Pancetta, American Cheese and Thousand Island Sauce.” I asked if the burger was served with fries and was informed that fries did accompany the burger.

As I waited I enjoyed an informative conversation with the bartender. There were five beers served, a sixth was on its way and the IPA that they recently introduced was such a hit it was sold-out more quickly than thought, a good sign for any restaurant touting itself as a brewery, but that’s a different story. Another server wondered over and joined in the conversation. Both were incredibly friendly and very knowledgeable about the entire restaurant.

The burger arrived and there were several items that were immediately visible. The bun was very tall and I was concerned it would be too much bread for the burger and the large portion of fries was heavily seasoned. In addition, the patty was perfectly round, compact and gave the appearance of pre-made by machine.

Let’s start with the good news. The fries were some of the best I have eaten. They were thrice-fried (no idea why you need the third dipping) and the seasoning was delicious. They were crispy on the exterior and moist and soft on the interior. The seasoning also added a great saltiness and cheesiness. I noticed garlic cloves and sprigs of rosemary intermingled within the fries and the bartender told me that they three ingredients were all fried simultaneously.

Onto the burger. The Guvnor’s Burger is probably six-ounces and the bartender told me it was a 3-meat blend of short rib, chuck and brisket (unconfirmed). The meat was well cooked to medium-rare but lacked any flavor, there was no seasoning whatsoever either before or after cooking. The texture was compressed and borderline hard. The cheese added a little flavor and the pancetta added a little saltiness, but the Thousand Island Sauce was too vinegary and the flavors were too bold for the other ingredients. The bun was too large for burger and was not complementary to the meat. Overall the burger was fairly disappointing.

The space was incredibly well done, the service was excellent and the fries were outstanding. Unfortunately, I would not run back and re-order the burger.

Golden View Firenze Opens in Greenwich

Posted on October 13, 2013 by jfoodeats

The culinary landscape in Greenwich expands with the recent opening of Golden View Firenze at 249 Railroad Avenue with its owner, chef and menu direct from Florence, Italy. For many years Tommaso Grasso, owner of Golden View Open Bar overlooking the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, visited friends in the US and they recently convinced him to bring his upscale cuisine and vibe to Greenwich. He persuaded Italian chef Francesco Casu to join him from Florence, and the two have created a traditional and authentic Tuscan menu.

Entering the restaurant, you immediately feel the European influence in the décor. The sleek black and white tables and chairs were imported from Italy and the walls are all adorned with paintings also imported from Italy. The entire space has an inviting European hip ambience and is spacious for the forty guests who will dine on traditional Tuscan cuisine. The entire rear of the dining area is dedicated to the stainless steel kitchen with a Chef’s Counter for four lucky guests.

The menu includes traditional Tuscan fare; a cuisine focused on simple presentations, fresh ingredients and a sense of balance to the dish’s construction. The opening menu includes choices reflective of the owner and chef’s Italian roots. There are ten choices of Salumi e Fora ranging from Prosciutto Di Parma to Lardo and a selection cheeses (including my favorite Taleggio) served with Italian honey and homemade jams. Insalates range from simple Mixed Greens to Buffalo Mozzarella with grilled zucchini, snap peas, sundried tomatoes ad mixed greens. Antipasti selections include cold and warm selections including soup Cheese flan, grilled vegetables and several fish preparations.

On my initial visit during the restaurant’s opening week I decided to bypass the appetizers and ordered a pasta and entrée. With almost a dozen pasta choices, I decided to sample theSpaghetti all’astice (Spaghetti with Lobster) and the Branzino di Fondale alla Siciliana (Sicilian style black sea bass with leeks, celery, tomato, capers and black olives).

As I waited I enjoyed a simple bruschetta of tomato, olive oil and basil sitting atop a slice of house-made bread. The kitchen allowed the flavors of the tomatoes to stay as the centerpiece of the dish with just a touch of oil and basil.

The Spaghetti was delicious. A large portion of spaghetti was complemented by a light lobster fumet and finished with chunks of lobster. The pasta was perfectly prepared to al dente and the lobster was succulent and delicious. The sauce included just a touch of spice that left a delightful after flavor on the palate.

The Black Bass sat atop a potpourri of cherry tomatoes, olives, capers and celery. Black Bass is one of my variety of fish and Golden View’s preparation was simple with the wonderful flavors of the bass showcasing and the freshness of the other ingredients that added varying flavors and textures.

As the chef adjusts the seasoning differences between the American and Italian palate this will become a go-to restaurant in Greenwich. Stay tuned as CTbites returns in the near future for a more in depth review.

249 Railroad Ave. – Greenwich, CT -(203) 817-0919

This review was originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/10/13/sneak-peek-at-greenwichs-golden-view-firenze.html

Village Social (Mt. Kisco NY) Delivers Great Cuisine

Posted on October 13, 2013 by jfoodeats

A new restaurant in my home town of New Canaan will feature the cuisine of Village Social’s Chef Mogan Anthony so one night I drove to Mt. Kisco to sample his cuisine. And I am very glad I did. The chef combines textures and flavors incredibly well and I look forward to his arrival in my little town.

The restaurant is large, separated into a vibrant bar area to the right and a dining room the left. The décor creates a great vibe and as I sat at one of the high tables in the bar I watched a steady stream of young, old, singles, couples, and groups…an eclectic clientele, all looking forward to an enjoyable evening. And during my 90 minutes of wonderful cuisine, I saw smiles on every guest. And the cuisine was one of the prime reasons. The food that Chef Mogan served was outstanding.

I started with the Salty Pretzel Crusted Tuna; a sliced, slightly seared wedge of tuna that sat atop a spicy kimchi aioli with a few sliced scallion. The tuna was cool in the center with the salty crust offering both a textural and salty contrast. Adding the kimchi aioli to the tuna added a level of spiciness and creaminess to the dish and the scallions increased the flavor profile. This was one delicious dish combining salty, spicy, crunchy, soft…all great together.

Another light, small plate that I enjoyed was the salt baked beets with whipped ricotta, mache, orange slices and pistachio vinaigrette. The earthiness of the beets were beautifully offset with the sweetness of the orange segments and the whipped ricotta added a soft creamy texture. The pistachio pieces complemented with a touch of earthiness and crunch. This dish was fantastic.

Another outstanding dish was a small plate of the slow cooked skirt steak with onions over mashed potatoes. Although the menu states Chimmichuri, the restaurant is currently serving this dish with caramelized onions and I really liked the change. The perfectly prepared medium-rare steak was rubbed with a slightly spicy Japanese seasoning, nestled in creamy mashed potatoes with a rich beef jus. The steak was tender and flavorful and the caramelized onions were soft and sweet and worked perfectly with the steak and potatoes. The beef jus added an added level of flavor.

Another dish I sampled was the Burrata poached in olive oil and served in a jar, served with a basket of bread. This was not to my liking. The server informed me that I pour the Burrata over the bread and then the table normally shares the Buratta covered bread slices. As much as I like the idea of sharing great cheeses with friends, I found the olive oil diluted the wonderfulness of the Buratta, and I would prefer enjoying the Burrata and the bread without the olive oil.

Since the New Canaan location will feature Neapolitan pizzas, I asked which was the most popular at Village Social, and the server told me the “Sunny Side Egg.” When it arrived I was anxious to try Chef Mogan’s red-sauced creation that included mozzarella cheese, Prosciutto di San Daniele, with a sunny side up egg perched in the center and slices of truffle finishing the combination. This was an excellent pizza with a fabulous sauce, great mozzarella, the egg and truffles added additional decadence and the crust was perfectly charred from the wood burning oven. I would have preferred slightly less saltiness from the prosciutto.

Save room for dessert. The Salty Caramel pie was a tribute to sweetness and textures. The filling was a smooth caramel-custard and the crunchy crust was a perfect complement to the sweetness of the filling. It was served with a scoop of mild-flavored vanilla ice cream that offset the sweetness of the pie and created a great balance.

Overall the atmosphere and food at Village Social were outstanding. Serving up to 700 guest on a busy weekend night, this restaurant is a go-to place in Mt. Kisco and Chef Mogan Anthony is creating delicious food.

Craftbar – Great Vibe and Some Excellent Choices

Posted on October 2, 2013 by jfoodeats

(Sorry for the lack of photos…it was a family event)

Located on Broadway, three blocks north of Union Square, Craft Bar is a bustling restaurant with excellent service and delicious food. The restaurant has a constant vibe that gives great energy to the atmosphere. There are both booths and tables, but be forewarned on the booths, they are long and four people occupy only three of the sides so the two people on each end are fairly far apart. If you are looking for conversation amongst all four guests, opt for a table which are much more intimate and allow for easy conversation. We did, and the four of us spent three relaxing, unrushed hours enjoying many of the dishes.

Our server was excellent, knowledgeable, friendly, and was quick to offer suggestions, and each of his recommendations were perfect. The only drawback to the service was what I would describe as aggressive bussers; maybe they were assigned too many tables but they constantly reached across the table versus walking around. These intrusions were disruptive to the flow of the conversation. They need instructions to just walk behind each guest versus intrude.

We immediately ordered both the Cheese and Meat assortments to enjoy as we looked through the numerous small and large plate offerings.

The meats consisted of Pastrami Wagyu Beef Tongue (brined & confit beef tongue with pastrami spice) with a dab of spicy beer mustard; Chicken Liver Paté (roasted and puréed with shallot and bourbon) with strawberry jam; Country Pate (Duroc pork, morello cherry and quatre epices) with cherry mostarda; and Smoked Pig’s Head Terrine (brined and smoked pig head) with pickled mustard seed and Calabrian chile. The first two were exceptional. The thin slices of tongue were melt in your mouth tender with rich flavor and the paté was decadently delicious, smooth and rich with flavor. The slice of the country pate brought a good amount of flavor but was not in the same league as the first two and the Smoked Pig’s Head was more about texture than flavor, it was overly gelatinous and delivered no flavor.

The five cheeses included portions of Harbison (Cow) from Jasper Hill, Greensboro, VT; Pawlet (Raw Jersey Cow) from Consider Bardwell Farm, West Pawlet, VT; San Andreas (Raw Sheep) from Bellwether Farm, Sonoma County, CA; Hudson Red (Raw Cow) from Twin Maple Farm, Ghent, NY; and Point Reyes Bay Blue (Cow) from Point Reyes Farmstead, West Marin, CA. Each of these was delicious, and choosing one as a favorite is difficult as everyone at the table enjoyed all of them.

For my appetizer I ordered the Marinated Montauk Squid with lentil salad, pickled shallots, and pickled celery. This was a very refreshing dish, with beautiful colors and vibrant flavors. The amount of squid was scant, almost to the point of a scavenger hunt halfway through the course and I would have preferred much more squid. For those who are adventurous there is a duck heart and dumpling option. My daughter ordered the hearts and they were prepared medium rare; the flavor and texture reminded me of liver with incredibly rich, almost gamey flavor. The Lumache Pasta with a Bolognese Duroc pork Ragu, soffritto, and Parmigiano was very good. I really liked the choice of the pasta which held the sauce perfectly. I found the Bolognese was a little too salty but it was rich in flavor. The highlight of the meal was the Veal Breast Roulade, which was served with a potato purée, Hen of the Woods mushrooms, heirloom tomatoes, and watercress. I rarely find a veal breast on any menu and I asked the server his opinion prior to ordering. He smiled and said he never had a problem recommending this dish. He was correct. The veal was tender, with incredible flavor and the accompaniments were excellent choices to add flavor and texture. This rendition receives a perfect ten in my books.

Leave room for dessert as one of the choices, the Blueberry & Almond Cake with candied ginger purée, toasted almond Anglaise was outstanding and also recommended by our server. With loads of butter, this cake is slightly crispy on the exterior but the softness and flavors of the cake was outstanding and the blueberries added the sweet component. I would eat several pieces with a cup of coffee. Not in the same league was the Praline Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream, and Candied Pecans. The flavors did not work well together, almost fighting each other. I would shy away from the Chocolate Cake.

I would absolutely return to Craft Bar and try other dishes. I really enjoyed the evening.

323 Main Street (Westport) – Looking for an Identity

Posted on September 28, 2013 by jfoodeats

After several visits, 323 Restaurant & Bar in Westport is a bar/restaurant looking for an identity. It is unclear whether this is a bar with a dining room, or vice versa. Equally unclear is the cuisine which includes Italian, Seafood, Southern, and simple grilled meats. The interior was converted from a neighborhood bar, Bogies, and now includes with a 66-seat dining area to the right and an equi-large room to the left with a U-shaped bar and tables. The décor is eclectic-rustic-formal with wood beams overlooking tables covered with clothes. HDTV with a ballgame on the wall in one room and art on the walls in the other. But most important was the experience. On a recent weekend night visit there were limited guests (4 tables) and the vibe was dull but the service was alive. I hope they can decide on a direction before it is too late.

As far as the cuisine was concerned I enjoyed some of the dishes, a few of the components in the others required a little attention (some of these items have already been modified from when I originally sampled) and others were not at all to my liking.

The “New England Clam Chowder” on one visit was one of the best chowders I have tasted…a great start to the meal. The creamy bisque was rich in flavors from the fish stock and included an abundance of clams. On a subsequent visit the broth was overly pungent, the clams were very chewy and the potatoes were mushy, almost as if it simmered too long.

The “Grilled Octopus” with Chorizo hash and olive tapenade delivered some excellent flavors and textures. The octopus was braised and then finished on the grill. It was extremely tender and the olive tapenade was a good complement. The hash lacked the appropriate spiciness and would have benefited from more chorizo to add additional spice. The menu subsequently eliminated the hash. The “Salad of Thumbelina Carrots,” et. al. was a big hit. Included in the potpourri of colors were breakfast radishes, beets, kumquats and avocados. Each was sweet and incredibly delicious; I loved the textures and flavors of each of these vegetables. I was not as fond of the ginger yogurt that accompanied the salad and thought it did not complement, and almost fought with, the sweetness of the vegetables.

The grilled meat entrees were the highlight. The best overall dish was the 323 Burger. Eight ounces of short rib and brisket blend was served with pancetta, onion jam, American cheese, pickles and 323 sauce served on a Wave Hill brioche. Served with French fries or onion rings, the burger was perfectly prepared, delivered great flavor and the accompaniments were delicious. The hand-cut onion rings were delicious but on my two visits the seasoning was uneven. The “Dry Aged Boneless NY Strip” was fantastic. It was served with broccolini with raisins, and pignoli duck fat potatoes. The steak, from Pat LaFrieda in NYC, was prepared perfectly and delivered great flavor and texture; this was one of the best steaks in the area. The potatoes were delicious; crisp on the exterior and creamy on the interior; I was not fond of the broccolini and raisin accompaniment which was undercooked. The “Salmon a la Plancha” with spring vegetable ragout, julienned pear and a black truffle sauce was flavorful. A simple salmon filet sat atop a variety of beans, peas and onions and hidden beneath the vegetables was the highlight of the dish, a truffle sauce. The sauce was earthy and delightful when paired with other ingredients.

Unfortunately there were an equal number of very disappointing dishes. My least favorite dish was the “Hand Cut Fresh Tagliarini” with Guanciale, English peas, spring onion and Parmesan cheese. The pasta was overcooked, gummy in texture and the sauce was lacking the richness I would expect from the description. The “Chicken Saltimbocca” was incredibly bitter and was returned to the kitchen. The Lobster Roll was non-memorable with limited meat and flavor and it almost joined the chicken in a return to the kitchen.

The desserts were all disappointing. On one visit the “Chocolate Torte” with butterscotch, sea salt and vanilla gelato was served with burnt edges and on a subsequent visit, the flavor and texture were lacking; the Panna Cotta with crumble was served two different ways. On one visit it was delicious and on a subsequent visit the crumble topping had a burnt flavor.

Overall the grilled meats and burgers that 323 served were delicious while the non-“grill” items did not deliver the same level of satisfaction.

323 Restaurant & Bar · 323 Main Street · Westport, CT. · 203.222.0323

Tony’s Deli (New Canaan) – My Go-To Sandwich Shop

Posted on September 26, 2013 by jfoodeats

Tony’s deli has two locations, Ridgefield and New Canaan, and the latter location is our go-to sandwich shop in town. With its recent relocation across the street to the storefront next to Zumbach’s, Tony’s is smaller but still serving some creative and delicious sandwiches and wraps. The sandwich menu is enormous, over 50 different pre-determined recommended combinations. Ordering a platter to enjoy with friends on a boat, by the pool or to snack on when buddies come over to play poker, I always go to Tony’s.

Over the years I’ve kept some of the combinations as Tony designed them, while others have been modified to meet the tastes of my friends and family. A few I really like:

My breakfast sandwich of choice is the Bacon, egg and cheese on a roll. A true classic, with a fried egg, a slice of white American cheese and a couple of strips of bacon on a seeded Kaiser roll. It may not be a difficult sandwich, but Tony’s does a great job.
White Russian – Roast beef, tomato, cole slaw, Russian dressing, bacon, horseradish and melted Swiss on a wedge. I was not crazy about the spiciness that the horseradish brought, so I started to order without. I like this version much better.
Ferrari – Fresh Mozzarella cheese, prosciutto, roasted peppers, olive paste, sundried tomatoes, pesto, fresh tomatoes, balsamic vinegar on a wedge. Like the White Russian, after a couple I was not that impressed with the Prosciutto and started ordering without. This vegetarian alternative is a favorite in the house.
New Canaan Rams Special – Roast beef, Russian dressing, horseradish, Cheddar cheese, lettuce and tomato. My alternative to the White Russian when I am looking for that English beef and horseradish combination.
Pine Street Special – Turkey, ham, roast beef, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, bacon, avocado and mayonnaise. This sandwich is full of flavor and the bacon and avocado add that salti-creaminess to a meat and cheese sandwich.
Right Off The Boat – Sopressata, imported Provolone cheese, cappicolo, sweet peppers (hot peppers are also available), tomato, onion, oil and vinegar. After one I gave up, Boar’s Head Italian meats just did not cut it for me.
Cranberry Turkey Wrap – Turkey, sprouts, tomato, bacon, Swiss cheese, Mayonnaise and cranberry sauce. This one has great flavor but gets a little messy with the mayo and cranberry sauce so ask for extra napkins
Russian Turkey Wrap – Turkey, Russian dressing, cole slaw, bacon, Swiss cheese and tomato. Put anything in a wrap and it is low-cal and healthier. If I need to avoid the wedge, this is my basic go-to wrap.

There are numerous grilled and breaded chicken sandwiches, but most of them are dressed with Blue Cheese and other dressings that are not my favorite. Maybe a little re-design of those in the future will bring them to this list.

NOLA Oyster Bar – Outstanding Seafood in SONO

Posted on September 8, 2013 by jfoodeats

I re-visited NOLA Oyster Bar a few months after its opening to enjoy some of the newest additions to the menu. Chef Dan Kardos is clearly in charge of the kitchen and his culinary talent is evident as he creates some of the most delicious cuisine in Fairfield County.

The Seafood Tower, a dedication to cold shellfish (plus tuna), was the first course served to our table. The generous portions included Cherrystone clams, snow crab legs, Copps Island oysters, shrimp, and charred Hamachi crudo. A house made mignonette sauce accompanied the oysters. All of the items on the Tower were delightful. The crudo was marinated in white and dark balsamic vinegar plus a combination of lime and tangerine juices; it was tantalizing. The crab legs and shrimp were sweet with just a touch of seasoning to emphasize the natural flavors. The Copps Island oysters were a little bitter with very little salinity, but the addition of the mignonette sauce drastically changed the flavor profile from bitter to delicious.

It is rare that I rave about a vegetable dish, but the Brussels sprouts at Nola were outstanding. Fried and then topped with a sweet maple glaze, it was almost impossible to stop eating them. Chef Kardos then added more crunch with a smattering of chopped pistachios and bacon. The Brussels sprouts should be a communal order to share and enjoy with everyone at the table.

The “Chopped Salad” included corn, peas, beets, wax beans, Brussels sprouts and topped with grated Queso Fresco cheese. This was no ordinary green salad; it offered several vegetables from Urban Oaks with differing textures and just a touch of spiciness. It was a delicious salad.

The “Cornmeal Fried Oysters” were served with collard greens, Jalapeño mayonnaise, Tasso ham and topped with a spicy corn relish. The oysters were crunchy on the exterior with a good sized belly that released the delicious liquor when bitten. The Tasso offered a smooth complement and sweet corn, pickle and red pepper relish was a perfect addition. The Jalapeño mayonnaise added just the correct level of spiciness.

The “Poached Lobster & Cornbread Waffle” is one of my favorite combinations in the area. It included butter-poached lobster, griddled scallions, Queso Fresco cheese topped with a brown sauce. The waffles were sweet, crispy on the exterior and moist and soft on the interior. The lobster was full of sweet buttery flavor, the scallions brought a little bitterness and the melted cheese created smoothness to the dish. The dish was finished with one of the best brown sauces north of the French Quarter.

My adventure through NOLA’S seafood continued with two other outstanding dishes. The “Shrimp & Grits” started with paprika dusted shrimp that were perfectly sautéed and paired with sliced Jalapeños to deliver a good kick. To mellow the flavors the dish contained slices of Tasso ham and all of these ingredients sat atop creamy grits. The “Griddled Scallops” were served atop a smooth and delicious celery root puree, and Chef Kardos changed the direction of a traditional scallop dish with the addition of several uncommon ingredients, strawberries and melon. The dish was further enhanced by a touch of honey, almonds, and finished with slices of speck. This was a great combination of flavors and textures. The honeydew brightened the dish and the honey brought sweetness, but I was not as excited about the strawberries.

To finish the meal, I sampled the “Chocolate & Peanut Butter Pot De Crème” that was topped with whipped cream and roasted peanuts, which was much too sweet for my palate. I was less enthusiastic about this dessert.

After several months, NOLA Oyster Bar has taken its position as one of the go-to restaurants in Fairfield County.

Really Liked

Brussels Sprouts
Poached Lobster
Shrimp & Grits
Fried Oysters
Griddled Scallops
Seafood Tower

Liked

Chopped Salad

Did Not Like

Chocolate & Peanut Butter Pot au Creme

This review was originally posted on http://www.ctbites.com at:

http://www.ctbites.com/home/2013/9/8/nola-oyster-bar-revisiting-an-excellent-seafood-spot-in-sono.html

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying

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