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Ernie’s Pizza in New Haven: Three Meats, Zero Regrets

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I guess after making pizza for over fifty years, it comes as no surprise that one of the best pizzas in the greater New Haven area, as well as one of the best pizzas in CT, is made by Pasqual (Pat) DeRiso at Ernie’s Pizza. Pat is the second-generation owner of Ernie’s, which was started by his father and mother, Ernesto (Ernie) and Jennie De Riso, in 1971. Pat purchased the business in 1989 and now continues the family tradition, personally crafting every single pizza that comes out of the oven.

Located on Whalley Avenue, a few blocks south of Exit 59 of Route 15 (let others argue whether it is the Merritt or Wilbur Cross), Ernie’s is housed in a modest, standalone building marked only by a simple red and white sign that reads “Ernie’s Pizzeria Specializing in Pizza Since 1971.” Specializing…no truer words have ever been posted.

Ernie’s doesn’t always receive the same love and attention from New Haven pizza aficionados, perhaps due to its location, four miles (about 20 minutes) north of Wooster Street. I will state, without reservation, without a second thought, without even a moment’s hesitation: Ernie’s serves some of the most spectacular pizza you will ever enjoy.

With ample off-street parking, guests enter a single dining space that feels both welcoming and nostalgic. The room features ten booths that each seat four, a few cozy booths for two, and about twenty additional seats at standalone tables. Adorning the walls are pizza caricatures, a pizza peel commemorating Ernie’s 45th anniversary, and a photo dating back some 50+ years. At the center of the room is “Pizza Central,” where Pat stands as the centerpiece. From this vantage point, he lovingly stretches the dough, ladles on the sauce, spreads the grated cheese, and adds the requested toppings with care and precision. During my visit, I watched Pat craft pie after pie, each one made with focused attention and heartfelt pride. There’s no assembly-line feel, every pizza is a personal reflection of Pat’s dedication.

Even as a one-man pizza-making operation, Pat still finds the time to greet and chat with nearly every customer, whether at their table or picking up their order. He asks about families, shares a few laughs, and trades stories, many with regulars who’ve been coming to Ernie’s for years. When I asked Pat if he knew all his customers, he offered a sheepish smile and simply said, “I have a loyal following.” Even on my very first visit, Pat took time to visit my table, check in, and share a bit of Ernie’s history. We talked about his passion for quality, his commitment to making every pie meet his high standards, and what the future might hold. From a customer’s point of view, my visit was like hanging out at a friend’s house, catching up, shooting the breeze and having some great slices.

On to the pies.

Ernie’s offers three pizza sizes: a small (12”), a medium (16”), and a large (20”). I opted for the medium, split between meatball on one side and both sausage and pepperoni on the other side. Adding meatballs was a slight departure from my usual order, but my pre-visit research turned up one consistent note, Ernie’s meatballs were supposedly delicious. I had to find out for myself.

The pie was delivered by one of the servers, and it looked tremendous. The edges were slightly charred, just enough to suggest a well-fired bake. There was a generous layer of cheese, and I was required to look closely to distinguish between the two different toppings’ sides. The generous amounts of toppings also gave the first indication that there would be a good flop when I attempted to lift the first few slices.

The first sample was a quick taste of the crust. It had a mild flavor, a medium crunch on the outside, and a slightly soft interior. I next grabbed a sausage round. Pat uses Lamberti sweet sausage, which he first bakes and then thickly slices. As a longtime fan of Lamberti, I wasn’t surprised to find that the sausage slices were excellent, they were juicy, savory, and perfectly cooked. Then a taste of the pepperoni, it was crispy along the edge with a medium-level heat, and offered just the right amount of kick. They were also delicious. Finally, the big test, the meatball. Would it live up to my research? Absolutely. These house-made chunks of meatballs were moist, flavorful, and packed with a rich, beefy punch. They actually exceeded my expectations. The meats were a perfect 3-for-3. Next, I checked the underside of the crust, and Pat absolutely nailed it. It had that ideal medium-dark tan, signaling a perfectly balanced bake. As I pulled up the first slice, the melted cheese gave that beautiful, long, thin stretch, a classic sign of a well-made pie.

As expected, the slices were a bit tricky to lift, but my persistence paid off. If needed, plastic forks and knives are provided.)

The first bite of the meatball side was pure heaven, so much flavor and balance. The combination of crust, sauce, cheese and meat was nothing short of spectacular. I forced myself to slow down and savor every bite. It was a challenge, simply because you wanted more. Then came the sausage-and-pepperoni side, and it delivered just as brilliantly. The saltiness of the two meats, the creamy melt of the cheese, and the brightness of the tomato sauce created a rich, satisfying harmony. Curious about his sauce, I asked Pat, and he shared that it’s made simply from crushed tomatoes and seasoning, uncooked before hitting the stretched dough. That tomato freshness came through in every bite, giving the pizza the brightness to complement the cheese and meats.

Overall, I loved Ernie’s and is a pizzeria that should not be missed. The atmosphere and the pizza are great and then there is the owner and premier pizzaiola, Pat, who makes every visit special for every guest.

1279 Whalley Ave.

New Haven, CT 06515

(203) 387-3362

Modern Pizza (New Haven) – Pepperoni Pizza Killing It

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Over the past months, I’ve been on a quest to find the best pizza in the Valley, exploring Waterbury and its neighboring towns. Now, it feels like the right time to turn my attention to what many consider the epicenter of Connecticut pizza: New Haven. And when you arrive, you’re met with no shortage of options to explore.

When a couple of buddies and I were scheduling a pizza lunch, we decided to sidestep the potential chaos of Wooster Street and headed over a few blocks to Modern Apizza on State Street. Once you manage to find parking, be prepared to wait, and count yourself lucky if you have that lucky timing of an immediate opening. We arrived just after noon and, to our good fortune, a booth was open in the back room. We took it as a sign of good things to come. As soon as our server arrived, we ordered a couple of bottles of Foxon Park, Kola and Root Beer, then got down to topping talk. We kept it semi-classic: one pie fully loaded with pepperoni and the other topped with sausage and onion.

When the pies arrived, they looked spot-on, each boasting that signature New Haven-style char along the edges. Interestingly, the char was concentrated on just one side of each pie, suggesting the kitchen skipped the usual spin during baking. Both pizzas had a generous layer of cheese, perfectly melted. The pepperoni pie was especially impressive, absolutely loaded with slices that stretched right to the crust, a definite plus. The sausage and onion pie, however, was less generous, with a noticeable gap near the edges that felt like a missed opportunity for more flavor and balance.

I checked the underside of both pies, and the kitchen had done an excellent job; each crust was an even light tan with just a few charred spots, exactly what you’d hope for. With preparation and appearance checked off, it was time to dig in.

A quick pull of crust and it was delicious, not too dense, not too airy and just a hint of flavor. Onto the pepperoni, and these half-dollar sized circles were fantastic, just a touch of crispiness on the edges and a nice level of spiciness. The sausage, unfortunately, was not in the same category. I found the chunks to be a touch dense, and while it had nice fennel backnotes, it was not a standout in my opinion.

Now that the pizzas had cooled slightly, I pulled a sausage and onion slice and was happy to see long, stretchy strands of cheese still clinging to the base, a very good sign. The crust, sauce, and cheese were all excellent, but the sausage was in the back seat, too bland, and the onions were a more dominant contributor. Overall, I can only give this side a 7.5; the toppings were not to my liking.

The pepperoni, on the other hand, was a clear standout. Everything was in perfect balance, the crust was crispy, yet subtle, the sauce slightly sweet, the cheese rich and creamy, and the pepperoni brought just the right kick of spice and crunch. It hit every note: sweet, spicy, salty, creamy, and crispy. This side easily earned a perfect 10.

Our server was also great; she could not have been more friendly and efficient.

Overall, I completely agree that Modern is in the discussion as one of the best apizzas in New Haven for major components (crust, sauce, cheese, prep) and with that delicious pepperoni, the vibe and the friendly atmosphere, I would highly recommend.

Modern Apizza

874 State St, New Haven, CT 06511

(203) 776-5306

modernapizza.com

Little Rendezvous: Authentic 130+ Year Old Coal-Fired-Oven Pizza in Meriden, CT

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The year was 1888. The Civil War was twenty-three years in the past and the Model A was fifteen years in the future, the Statue of Liberty and Washington Monuments were recently dedicated, the US population stood at 50 million, the Standard Oil Company and AT&T were new companies, the Brooklyn Bridge was opened, and newly created Coca Cola was the talk of the south.

In the small town of Matteawan, NY, overlooking the Hudson River, Oven Number 312 was manufactured by the Dutchess Tool Company and sold to F Duhrkop of Meriden, CT. Until the late 1930s, the oven-baked bread at the Pratt Street location, and in 1938 the Verdolini family, forced to relocate its downtown business to Pratt Street, started baking pizza. In 1946, the business was sold to Tony Pascucci who changed the name to the Little Rendezvous. Over seventy-five years later, under the tutelage of its seventh owner, Steve Chehotsky, the Little Rendezvous is now producing one of the best, if not the best, pizza in CT, in one of the state’s longest, continuous-running coal ovens.

Little Rendezvous is still located on Pratt Street in Meriden, a very cute town southeast of Waterbury off Route 691. The small, white building is remarkably quaint, with two large 3 over 3 paned windows, a single center door a large sign above the door with “120 year old coal-fired brick oven” and a second sign “Brick Oven Pizza.” They are very proud of their heritage and the oven.

Little Rendezvous is probably the least heralded pizza restaurant in Connecticut, yet at times, the wait can be over three hours, yes, over three hours from order to delivery. The regulars, who have enjoyed these pies for decades, understand that if they do not follow the “Pro Tips,” they will miss the chance of grabbing one of the more than 100 pies created daily. 

I wanted to time my arrival before the lunch rush, and I felt comfortable when I arrived at 1145 with only two cars parked in front. My hopes were heightened when I entered and there were only two people in the dining room. Then I saw the first sign, “FUN FACT #32 AN EMPTY DINING ROOM DOES NOT MEAN WE ARE SLOW!!!” Now I was a little nervous. I approached the ordering counter and was greeted with, “Did you call ahead?” Oh no, did I screw up? When I asked how long, I was happily told that it would be a 35 to 40-minute wait, whew, not a big deal at all. I ordered a small half sausage, half pepperoni. Now to relax and wait.

Little Rendezvous has three rooms. The front area includes a long bench attached to the wall behind four 4-tops, with basic folding chairs facing the wall, a single round table that seats an additional three guests, and a shelf table with two chairs. The middle room is a connecting hallway (put in place to connect the two buildings in 1938) with shelves stocked with hundreds of pizza boxes. The back room is the epicenter. There is an ordering counter with one person manning the phones, taking face-to-face orders, slicing the pizza, bringing pizza to the dining area, and settling the bills. His ordering system consists of a spiral notebook divided into 15-minute increments. When an order is received, he places it in the outbound time slot. Upon my order at 1150, I was assigned the 1230 box. 

Behind the ordering counter is where the magic is made. Steve, the owner-pizzaiola-master, calmly creates one pie at a time. First, he stretches the dough very thin, then he carefully swirls two ladles of sauce, a few pinches of grated Parmesan cheese, and a couple of handfuls of shredded cheese. He carefully finishes the pie with layers of the requested toppings atop the shredded cheese and into the oven for 10-12 minutes. 

The oven is cavernous, at least 10-12 feet deep. On the floor in front of the oven is a pile of coal. The coal chamber sits to the right and when they opened it for me it was blazing hot with a mound of burning coal.

I waited in the dining area, and promptly as promised the pizza arrived. It looked great. I waited a few minutes to allow the pie to cool a bit. I decided to first try a sausage slice. I slowly slid one to check the bottom. With the edges charred, I thought I would see lots of black below. Nope, it was a consistent, dark beige. Now the lift. It held perfectly with a slight droop at the edge, and all the toppings stayed intact. Excellent construction.

My first bite was teeny-weeny out of respect for the roof of my mouth. Even with the tiniest of bites, I was impressed. Steve mentioned that he spends a lot of time with the sausage, and it showed. There was an enormous amount of flavor, not too spicy, just enough to take notice and the spiciness lingered after the bite. As the slice cooled and my bites became larger, I was more and more impressed. The balance definitely leaned towards sausage, if I were to divide, it would be 60% sausage, 15% sauce, 15% cheese, and 10% crust. As I have mentioned before, I am a chunk versus crumbled person, but I absolutely loved this slice.

With the sausage side in the record book, I moved to the pepperoni. The slices of pepperoni were 50% cupped, with just a dollop of oil in each, this is what I always look for, and this was the proper amount. My first bite was a full try since the pizza was now cooled. Wow, this was another great slice of pizza. The pepperoni was on the same spice profile as the sausage, just a nice level that kicked in and then trailed off. Different from the full coverage of sausage, the amount of pepperoni was more genteel, it allowed the cheese and sauce to participate more. The balance was perfect. The taste divide was 40% pepperoni, 25% cheese, 25% sauce and 10% crust. It was a slice of cheese pizza with pepperoni versus a slice of sausage pizza.

After enjoying my lunch, I spent a little time with Steve as he filled other orders. He started as a 15-year-old in the late 1980s and purchased the business about fifteen years ago. While he would not tell me the exact number of pies produced daily, he alluded to more than 100 and less than 200. The dough and sauce are made in-house, and he takes great pain in preparing the sausage. He was super friendly, and not only do you feel great about eating his great pizza, but he is the kind of friendly and customer-focused business owner that you want to give your hard-earned money to.

Overall, this is one of the best pizzas of my life. I do not want to get into the comparisons with other great pizzas in CT, we are all really lucky to have great options. Suffice it to say, Little Rendezvous definitely occupies one of my five fingers in the best of the best.

The Little Rendezvous

256 Pratt St.

Meriden, CT 06451

203.235.0110

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Vincenzo’s Pizzeria in Waterbury: A Hidden Gem for Delicious Pizza and More

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I’ve been looking for some great burger and pizza places in “the Valley,” and noticed a few references to a pizza place in Waterbury, Vincenzo’s Pizzeria. Looking at their website, I thought it would be like numerous other local Italian restaurants, where I could order a pie, maybe a Parm, sit at one of their tables, and enjoy a quiet lunch.

Fast forward to my visit. Vincenzo’s is located about a mile south of I-84’s Chase Parkway exit in Waterbury. As I left the Interstate, I drove through a neighborhood that reminded me of where I grew up, two-story houses, not a lot of commerce, and a sense of community. As my waze went under a quarter of a mile until I arrived at Vincenzo’s, things began to change slightly, I noticed several patio dining areas with white tablecloths jutting from white-painted two-storied restaurants named La Tavola and D’Amelios Italian Eatery, it reminded me of several great neighborhood Italian restaurants from my youth. 

I slowed as I approached one of Waterbury’s firehouses, looking for another white tableclothed restaurant. But there across the street, on the corner of Highland and Fairfield Avenues was a single-story, red-painted structure, with a couple of weather-worn signs. I had arrived at Vincenzo’s Pizzeria. Vincenzo’s also has a front patio, but at the time of my visit a few weeks before Memorial Day, there were no tablecloths, and it did not appear to be open. I looked for the parking area and saw a small lot behind the building that probably held six cars, one reserved for the delivery vehicle. 

I entered through the rear and found myself in a teeny-tiny ordering area, probably six feet by eight feet, with a couple of folding chairs, one blocking the door to the dining room with a hand-written sign that read “Dining Area open Friday and Saturday nights.” At the far end was an ordering counter that doubled as the window to the kitchen, and seated on a bridge chair on the other side of the plexiglass was a sweet, elderly lady, who wrote all the orders on a pad to hand to the kitchen staff. 

I ordered a small pizza, half sausage, and half pepperoni. She wrote “roni” and I smiled. I waited in my car for the suggested 15 minutes and returned as my pie was vacating the oven and into the traditional red & white box. It was now showtime.

When I opened the box, I was impressed, Vincenzo’s does not skimp on the amount of toppings, every millimeter was occupied by one of my two requested toppings. I first noticed the sausage, it was the crumbled variety, different from my preferred chunks, but better than slices. The ‘roni was slightly cupping, not a full-out cup-with-oil, but a medium cup and, yes, there was some oil in the cup. 

The edges look perfectly browned and when I checked the underside, it was likewise a beautiful darkish tan. I tasted the edge crust, and it was light, airy, and great flavor. The first lift of the sausage slice was, again, impressive. It held together with just a little tilt at the inner point. Now for the test and the bites. The first bite produced a slight crunch of the crust, and the sausage delivered light to medium spice, and the proportion of sausage to cheese to sauce was slightly leaning toward the sausage. This first bite was great. I waited for the cooling effect and then my normal Third Bite Test, it passed with flying colors. This was a really good slice of pie.

Now onto the ‘roni side. The slice was equally delicious, the pepperoni was slightly spicy at first and then the spiciness sorta lingered and intensified. This side also passed the Third Bite Test with flying colors. In fact, the proportions were slightly better than the sausage side, which allowed the sauce and cheese to play a more dominant role in the flavors.

Overall, Vincenso’s is a great off-the-beaten-path stop for a great pie and I will definitely return and try some of the other items on the menu. 

Vincenzo’s Pizzeria

752 Highland Ave

Waterbury, CT 06708

203-574-5300

203-574-5800

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