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The Evolution of Elm in New Canaan: Still Wowing Connecticut Palates

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Sometimes watching the evolution of a restaurant is as enjoyable as tasting its culinary creations. Even before Elm opened in 2012, I watched its opening chef painstakingly develop the initial menu, while the owners meticulously crafted their vision into the beautiful, warm and relaxing environment. The restaurant took an exciting turn in 2015 when Chef Luke Venner took control of the kitchen, and his current menu is widely regarded as one of the best in the state. My wife and I recently stopped in for an al fresco lunch. I was glad when I spotted Venner in the kitchen, it gave me a chance to say hello, catch up and hear his thoughts on his current offerings.

We grabbed an outdoor table under an umbrella, looked over the menu and ordered a few of our favorite things.

It’s become our ritual to order the Guacamole with cilantro and warm blue corn tostadas. When it arrived, I first noticed the new plating, with six air-puffed blue tostados sprouting vertically from the plate. Elm’s guacamole is one of my favorites, so creamy with earthy richness. The serving allowed for each large velvety forkful to counterbalance perfectly with the crunchy blue corn tostados. Each bite reminded me why this is a must-order introduction on each visit.

Sitting alongside the guacamole on the table was the newly introduced Burrata with glazed figs and basil. The kitchen split open an individual burrata, which allowed its creaminess to spread across the entire dish and then topped the cheese with the glazed halved figs and a sprinkling of basil leaves. This was the first time I ever tasted this combination, and certainly not the last. The natural sweetness of the figs was enhanced by the glaze, making it a perfect complement to the creaminess of the burrata, and the basil added a delicate reminder of fresh herbs. This was a great way to begin the meal.

We also enjoyed the Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with avocado, ponzu, crispy shallots & taro chips. Elm’s version takes this classic dish to an elevated level. The large-diced tuna sat atop a bed of creamy avocado, but Venner’s addition of the Ponzu added salty, sweet and sour components. Not to stop there, the addition of crisped shallots and sesame seeds added a deep and playful additions, while the taro chips completed the profile with their nutty crispiness. Elm’s version is one of my favorite renditions of this dish.

For my entrée I went full comfort zone with my traditional stand-by, the Double-double animal style. Elm offers guests the choice of “pink” or “no-pink,” and I wanted to test the “pink” doneness. Every time this burger arrives at the table I am in awe of its resemblance to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, its height approaches six inches. So many incredible elements to enjoy, two pink seared patties, pickles, tomatoes, shredded lettuce, onions, and special sauce, sharing the plate with an enormous helping of fries. While I would love to try to lift and bite, I knew better and grabbed the knife and fork. Each mouthful had so many flavors, so many textures, so much goodness. I still think this is one of the best burgers in CT. And let’s not forget the fries, also some of the best that CT has to offer.

If this was not enough, how about Venner’s decadent version of Mac & Cheese, topped with fresh truffle slices? It arrived at our table directly from the oven, bubbling hot, so take care not touching the serving bowl. We allowed the flavors to meld as the dish cooled and carefully scooped a forkful of pasta, held together by the cheesy gooeyness and a few chunks of bacon. It was delicious. Each bite was richer than the previous and when we added a slice of the truffle, it elevated the entire forkful with its deep, rich earthiness. This Mac & Cheese is a must-share portion, not only for its size, but everyone should enjoy this adult version of their childhood.

For the last thirteen years, Elm has been at the forefront of New Canaan’s culinary scene. Chef Luke Venner transforms fresh ingredients into creative combinations that challenge the senses. From the sweet-creamy figs-burrata to the down and dirty Double-Double, to the decadent Mac & Cheese, each dish was unmistakably distinctive, delicious, and a pure pleasure to enjoy. Elm continues to prove why it is one of the best restaurants in Connecticut.

73 Elm St, New Canaan, CT 06840

(203) 920-4994

https://www.elmrestaurant.com/

Ted’s Restaurant (Meriden) – So This is a Steamed Burger?

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Iconic… best of… like none other…, you gotta go to. When it comes to the superlatives, Ted’s Restaurant in Meriden has received more than its fair share for its steamed hamburger. Yup, the burgers are steamed. After close to 1,000 Connecticut burger notches on my belt, I almost feel like apologizing for not previously trying this historical Connecticut landmark.

The steamed cheeseburger, also referred to as a “steamer” or “cheeseburg,” is believed to have been invented at a restaurant called “Jack’s Lunch” in Middletown, Connecticut, in the 1930s. Others dispute this claim, stating that the steamed burger’s origin is none other than Ted’s Restaurant in Meriden. Regardless of its origin, Ted’s has received too many awards to mention, and on a warm, summer afternoon, I decided to visit.

Ted Duberek opened this namesake restaurant sixty-five years ago in 1959, catering to the then significant local factory worker population. When Ted passed away in the early 1970s, his son Paul took control, and he made very subtle changes to the cheeseburger as well as modifying the steam box and trays that are still used to this day. In March of 2008, ownership passed to his nephew Bill Foreman.

Ted’s is the only known restaurant in the U.S. that exclusively sells steamed cheeseburgers. The classic preparation begins with fresh, never-frozen, twice-ground meat so the burger will hold its size through the cooking process. Unlike traditionally griddled, fried, smashed, seared, Q’d, Ted’s burgers are steamed in small trays in a stainless-steel steaming cabinet that can simultaneously hold up to 48 patties. Sitting next to the burger-steaming unit is a twin sister that is used to melt the cheddar cheese.  Once the burgers are completely steamed, the fat is drained, and the meat is scooped onto the large and poofy JJ Cassone Vienna roll atop each guest’s requested toppings. If cheese was ordered, the steamed melted cheese is finally placed on top of the patty and served in picnic plastic baskets. 

I wanted to get a full appreciation of Ted’s so I ordered a cheeseburger with bacon, fried onion strings and pickles.

The combo-burger arrived and my initial impression was the size. The construct was a bottom bun, then bacon, the patty, the gooey cheese, the onions and finally nestled into the top of the roll were three pickle slices. The burger was thick, more than an inch tall, but was diameter-challenged, it was not as wide as the roll, at least half an inch of roll jutted on all sides; the patty to bun ratio could be better. To adjust for my first bite, I trimmed the edges of the roll. Ted’s does not skimp on the cheese either, the steamed cheddar was more than generous, and the steaming caused the amazing dripping-ooziness once it was placed atop the burger. 

On to the taste test. The burgers are very dense from the steaming process. It was absolutely necessary to add salt, pepper and ketchup to achieve the full flavor I was looking for, since I like a more seasoned patty. The melted cheddar was very mild. The bacon was overly crisp, which others may prefer; my preference is for a little less crunch and a little more smoky-saltiness. The frazzled onions were delicious, they brought a nice crunch and a great oniony flavor, I would recommend this topping. All in all, I would have preferred more flavor from each of the components.

I also ordered a regular order of fries. The young lady was kind enough to let me know they were very hot, and she was right. I let them cool before a dip in the ketchup. While these are not cut on the premises, the cooking process was perfect, and I really liked the fries. While Ted’s offers several special fries, I would stay with the regular. 

Overall, my expectations were extremely high with all the accolades and awards. Ted’s has been around for over 60 years, the line got longer and longer as I ate my burger, and they earn award after award, so they have a tremendous following. I am glad I finally experienced Ted’s steamed cheeseburger.

Ted’s Restaurant

1046 Broad Street, 

Meriden, CT 06450

203.237.6660

https://www.tedsrestaurant.com