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The Evolution of Elm in New Canaan: Still Wowing Connecticut Palates

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Sometimes watching the evolution of a restaurant is as enjoyable as tasting its culinary creations. Even before Elm opened in 2012, I watched its opening chef painstakingly develop the initial menu, while the owners meticulously crafted their vision into the beautiful, warm and relaxing environment. The restaurant took an exciting turn in 2015 when Chef Luke Venner took control of the kitchen, and his current menu is widely regarded as one of the best in the state. My wife and I recently stopped in for an al fresco lunch. I was glad when I spotted Venner in the kitchen, it gave me a chance to say hello, catch up and hear his thoughts on his current offerings.

We grabbed an outdoor table under an umbrella, looked over the menu and ordered a few of our favorite things.

It’s become our ritual to order the Guacamole with cilantro and warm blue corn tostadas. When it arrived, I first noticed the new plating, with six air-puffed blue tostados sprouting vertically from the plate. Elm’s guacamole is one of my favorites, so creamy with earthy richness. The serving allowed for each large velvety forkful to counterbalance perfectly with the crunchy blue corn tostados. Each bite reminded me why this is a must-order introduction on each visit.

Sitting alongside the guacamole on the table was the newly introduced Burrata with glazed figs and basil. The kitchen split open an individual burrata, which allowed its creaminess to spread across the entire dish and then topped the cheese with the glazed halved figs and a sprinkling of basil leaves. This was the first time I ever tasted this combination, and certainly not the last. The natural sweetness of the figs was enhanced by the glaze, making it a perfect complement to the creaminess of the burrata, and the basil added a delicate reminder of fresh herbs. This was a great way to begin the meal.

We also enjoyed the Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with avocado, ponzu, crispy shallots & taro chips. Elm’s version takes this classic dish to an elevated level. The large-diced tuna sat atop a bed of creamy avocado, but Venner’s addition of the Ponzu added salty, sweet and sour components. Not to stop there, the addition of crisped shallots and sesame seeds added a deep and playful additions, while the taro chips completed the profile with their nutty crispiness. Elm’s version is one of my favorite renditions of this dish.

For my entrée I went full comfort zone with my traditional stand-by, the Double-double animal style. Elm offers guests the choice of “pink” or “no-pink,” and I wanted to test the “pink” doneness. Every time this burger arrives at the table I am in awe of its resemblance to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, its height approaches six inches. So many incredible elements to enjoy, two pink seared patties, pickles, tomatoes, shredded lettuce, onions, and special sauce, sharing the plate with an enormous helping of fries. While I would love to try to lift and bite, I knew better and grabbed the knife and fork. Each mouthful had so many flavors, so many textures, so much goodness. I still think this is one of the best burgers in CT. And let’s not forget the fries, also some of the best that CT has to offer.

If this was not enough, how about Venner’s decadent version of Mac & Cheese, topped with fresh truffle slices? It arrived at our table directly from the oven, bubbling hot, so take care not touching the serving bowl. We allowed the flavors to meld as the dish cooled and carefully scooped a forkful of pasta, held together by the cheesy gooeyness and a few chunks of bacon. It was delicious. Each bite was richer than the previous and when we added a slice of the truffle, it elevated the entire forkful with its deep, rich earthiness. This Mac & Cheese is a must-share portion, not only for its size, but everyone should enjoy this adult version of their childhood.

For the last thirteen years, Elm has been at the forefront of New Canaan’s culinary scene. Chef Luke Venner transforms fresh ingredients into creative combinations that challenge the senses. From the sweet-creamy figs-burrata to the down and dirty Double-Double, to the decadent Mac & Cheese, each dish was unmistakably distinctive, delicious, and a pure pleasure to enjoy. Elm continues to prove why it is one of the best restaurants in Connecticut.

73 Elm St, New Canaan, CT 06840

(203) 920-4994

https://www.elmrestaurant.com/

Fair Haven Oyster Co. Delivers Casual Charm & Serious Flavor

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Located overlooking the scenic Quinnipiac River in the northeast section of New Haven, Fair Haven Oyster Company offers a tranquil escape with a focus on fresh, locally inspired cuisine. On a beautiful summer evening, I was fortunate enough to snag an outdoor table right on the rail. With the river gently flowing beside us, two of us enjoyed a relaxing meal centered around fresh ingredients and thoughtfully prepared seafood.

Fair Haven Oyster Company is housed in a modest wooden structure that does not give justice to the dining experience. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a friendly hostess who escorted us to the back patio. Other seating options include reservable bar seats and tables along the barn-boarded interior walls that give the space a rustic, casual charm. Fortunately for us, we were headed out to the porch, which turned out to be the perfect setting for a relaxed and memorable summer evening.

The menu reflected the bounty of the season, with a strong emphasis on fish and seafood. Visiting in mid-July, it included a generous selection of fresh salads and seafood preparations, all highlighting the kitchen’s commitment to high-quality ingredients and simplicity.

We started the evening with two very different appetizers that we both wanted to try. It was the perfect way to sample a bit more of what the kitchen had to offer, and to set the tone for the meal ahead.

The first appetizer was the tomatoes and ricotta, served with grilled cucumber, torn basil, fried shallots and bottarga. Generously portioned, it was easily shareable between the two of us. The presentation began with a broad smear of creamy ricotta as the base, topped with four thick tomato slices, two red and two yellow, along with a handful of cherry tomatoes and the grilled cucumber. The cucumbers, which seemed to have been lightly pickled before grilling, added a tangy contrast, and the scattered fried shallots and shavings of bottarga brought texture and umami, while torn basil and a drizzle of olive oil finished the dish. The tomatoes were bright, refreshing, and full of flavor, though one slice was slightly overripe and lacked the firmness of the others. Still, the combination of textures and flavors worked beautifully. It was a strong start to the meal, a solid 8.

We also ordered the baby lettuces with fried oysters, green goddess dressing, pickled shallots, and bonito. This was also a generous portion, and we enjoyed sharing both the appetizers. A mix of red and green leaf lettuces formed the base, lightly dressed in just enough green goddess to enhance, without overwhelming. The pickled shallots and bonito flakes added a slight depth and complexity. The fried oysters, about half a dozen, were cooked perfectly, but the coating lacked any noticeable seasoning (on a subsequent visit the seasoning on the oysters was much better), which was the one shortcoming of the dish, and kept it from reaching its full potential. I’d give the first visit a 7, which increased to a 9 with the properly seasoned oysters.

For my entrée, I chose one of my favorite fishes, a bone-in skate wing (pictured above), pan-seared and served with capers, Meyer lemon, tomato preserves, and brown butter. The result was nothing short of spectacular. Although the server offered to debone it, I declined, part of the eating pleasure of eating skate is carefully removing the meat immediately prior to each bite. The piece was cooked to perfection, with the flesh remaining moist and rich, while the quick pan-sear added a delightful contrast in texture. Each element on the plate contributed beautifully, the Meyer lemon sauce was bright and zesty, the capers brought just the right hint of saltiness, and the sun-dried tomatos delivered a delightful, concentrated burst of flavor. Altogether, it was a flawlessly executed dish, an easy 10.

My wife ordered the grilled Dorade, served with Gigante beans, artichoke, and preserved lemon, another standout. The whole fish arrived marked with symmetric cross-hatched grill lines. After removing the head and tail, the first bite confirmed that the preparation was as great as the presentation. We were pleasantly surprised that the fish was deboned (this was a positive versus my desire to de-bone my Skate), and the first bite delivered a perfect balance of crispy skin and tender, moist flesh. The Dorade was nestled atop a smooth Gigante bean purée, with additional whole beans layered over the fish for added texture. To complete the presentation, the kitchen added a few deep-fried artichoke halves, which brought both visual appeal and a satisfying crunch. It was easily one of the best preparations of Dorade we’ve ever had, another easy 10.

Service was as good as the entrees, flawless, unobtrusive and present when required.

Fair Haven Oyster Company strikes a rare balance, an unfussy environment within friendly surroundings, a thoughtful menu, and a laid-back, yet attentive service. It is a wonderful way to spend an evening.

307 Front St, New Haven, CT 06513

(203) 745-5741

https://www.fairhavenoysterco.com/

il Buco al Mare – Best Restaurant in The Hamptons

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Let’s just say it… il Buco al Mare is the best restaurant in the Hamptons. This is a very strong statement given the number of culinary options, but after numerous visits, I stand by that statement…every visit has been perfect in every aspect. The food is impeccable from the preparation to the plating and most importantly to the flavors, there is perfection in every step. Add to this the vibrant interior space and the relaxing garden out back and this is a spot for a casual shared dinner or a special occasion.

On this last visit, it was a cold June evening, and we braved the low 60s temperature and sat in the garden. The server approached promptly to take drink orders, and we simultaneously asked for the mushroom focaccia, we had to get the evening started.

Over the next two hours, our table enjoyed six incredible dishes.

The focaccia was topped with roasted eggplant, tomato, fresh mozzarella, anchovy, peperoncino and oregano ($25). This is no ordinary focaccia, which is normally cut and served in a basket, but il Buco’s was the love child of focaccia and pizza. It resembles a pizza with extremely puffy edges and a circle of goodness in the center. The crust was delicious, and the toppings were fantastic. I could make a meal of a flight of every focaccia on the menu. A great start for the meal and an easy 10.

We next moved to the main event with a pasta, two entrées and a couple of sides.

For our pasta choice, we opted for the Spaghetti with bottarga, peperoncino, garlic, lemon and parsley ($30). We are big fans of bottarga, a cured fish roe and the combination looked great, and it was. The pasta was cooked perfectly to al dente and the light, citrusy sauce exploded with every bite, plus a little saltiness from the bottarga. Another 10.

The star of the evening was the Smoked Senat chicken with cilantro chermoula, Tokyo turnips, labneh and berbere oil ($46). I consider this dish the best chicken in the Hamptons, in NY, and in America, yes, it is that good. A large, half chicken was carved into four pieces, leg, thigh and a split breast, smoked and roasted to a deep golden hue. The meat absorbed loads of smokiness and remained super moist, and the crispy skin was brilliant. Add a few of the accouterments (I loved the tiny Tokyo turnips) to each bite and experience numerous flavor combinations and textures. I could go on raving about this dish forever. I obviously give this dish a 10+++

The other entrée we ordered was the Skirt steak, chimichurri + sunchokes ($45), which was a nice 8–10-ounce portion, served with a bright and fragrant chimichurri and small halved sunchokes. Skirt steak is very underrated, but it is one of my favorite cuts since it delivers so much flavor. The meat was expertly prepared to our medium-rare / medium request and was full of deep flavors. The chimichurri was bright and fragrant and complemented the richness of the steak perfectly. This dish was an easy 9, it was great but it was sitting next to perfection.

We ordered two sides, the first was the crispy cannellini beans, celery, parsley and lemon ($18). The beans portion was a little smaller than we have received in the past, but the beans were delicious, crispy on the outside and still moist and soft on the interior. I give the cannellini beans a 9 (I wanted more).

Our second side was the Broccolini with lemon and chili ($18). We always ask about the spice level when we see chili and were told it was not that spicy. The spice level was better described as negligible, the earthiness of the large portion of broccolini was outstanding. This dish deserved a 10, which may be a first for me.

Service was even better than impeccable, rare that there was not a single slip, even minor, by any of the staff.

Overall, this was a perfect dinner in a perfect setting with perfect food and perfect service.

231 Main St, Amagansett, NY 11930

Phone: (631) 557-3100

https://ilbuco.com/pages/il-buco-al-mare

Death by Pizza in Delray Beach – Pizza to Die For

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Death by Pizza…what a way to go!!

I have been very fortunate in my pizza journey. I grew up with New Jersey style, spent a ton of time in NYC eating some of the best New York style, time in DC where Greek style pizza is prevalent, two years in Chicago enjoying thin-crust, stuffed and deep-dish and over 20 years in CT, enjoying New Haven style. The one box that was not checked was Detroit style, and when I started hearing that Death by Pizza in Delray Beach was serving some killer Detroit, it was time for a visit.

The West Delray location is west of nowhere, in a strip mall on West Atlantic west of the FL Turnpike and west of Lyons, for those who know the area. This non-descript storefront has one word on the building, “PIZZA.” Inside there is more than one word…delicious, fantastic, brilliant, unbelievable…just keep going.

They only serve Detroit style, and I am a bit embarrassed to say this was my first foray into Detroit pizza. I have yet another word to describe this pizza, outrageous. Let’s start with what I was served. DBP serves freshly made to order and slices (think Joe’s in the West Village of NYC). I only wanted a couple of slices (should I call them squares?) and they reheated the two I ordered, so these were reheated for those who want to scream “they are burnt.”

The first was the Roni Jabroni (ezzo’s pepperoni cups, mozzarella & sweet sauce). The crust was great, the sauce had a little spice to it and the ‘roni were cupped, crispy and fantastic. This was a perfect 10.

I also wanted to go out of my normal comfort zone and ordered a square of Mr. White (whipped ricotta, mozzarella & basil pesto). Same delicious crust with the topping reminiscent of the insides of a great ravioli plus the pesto added another great flavor. Another 10.

Overall, I was a little nervous as I drove and entered, but when I took my first bite, I was sold that Detroit style pizza deserves all the accolades it receives. And Death by Pizza deserves all the accolades it receives.

DOWNTOWN DELRAY (Take out only)  528 NE 2nd St. Delray Beach, FL 33483 (561) 666-9111  WEST DELRAY (Dine-in and take out) 15065 FL-7 BAY 400 Delray Beach, FL 33446 (561) 666-8976  
Death by Pizza

Bagel Bros: Exploring Oxford’s Best Bagel Choices

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Bagels, Bagels, Bagels!!!

This simple rendition of mix, rise, boil, bake has numerous interpretations and toppings and has captured the imagination of breakfast lovers for over 400 years. It has been ages since a bagel shop appeared in Oxford, CT, and, after seeing the “Coming Soon” sign for months, purchasing fresh bagels in Oxford is now a reality with the opening of Bagel Bros & Company second location in the David K mall at 144 Oxford Rd.

Bagel Bros has numerous options to satisfy both the traditionalists and those looking for more funky options, whether plain, sesame, salt, onion, poppy, blueberry, cinnamon raisin, cinnamon sugar, egg, jalapeno cheddar, whole wheat, everything, egg everything, whole wheat everything, garlic, and French toast. There are quite few combinations to choose from, and Bagel Bros. does not skimp on the toppings of either the sesame or poppy seeds, they were loaded.

Now the tricky part, what type of bagel was Bagel Bros going to serve? I will break the two buckets into two categories, crispy versus soft exterior and poofy versus doughy interior. The website states “FRESH, DOUGHY NY-STYLE BAGELS,” so the latter was already decided.

Onto the taste tests…

I first ordered a sesame seed with butter, which carried a $2.75 price tag. My bagel arrived quickly, and the first bite definitely confirmed the doughy interior. The exterior also fell squarely into the soft versus crunchy option. The flavor was pretty good, not overwhelming, a little salty, and it would have benefitted from a little more butter, maybe cream cheese would also be a good choice. On opening day, they did a really good job.

On my second visit, I chose a variety of options to bring home and try. Toasting each helped release more goodliness and crisped the exterior. The saltiness in the plain bagel was still a little too much for my taste, but when I switched to the egg, it seemed a little less salty, as well as more flavorful. The only non-traditional that I tried was the cinnamon-raisin, and it was very good with a little dollop of cream cheese.

After a few days, they still have to iron out some of the kinks, but if my neighbors in the Oxford area are looking for soft, chewy bagels, Bagel Bros has arrived.

BagelBros&Co

(203) 513-202

SHELTON: 350 Howe Ave, Shelton, CT 06484

OXFORD:  144 Oxford Rd, Oxford, CT 06478

info@bagelbrosandco.com

Blackbird (New Canaan) – You Gotta Get There

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It’s been a while since a new restaurant opened in New Canaan, so I was very excited when I heard that the much-anticipated Blackbird opened a few doors down from its sister restaurant Solé. After the first visit, the food was so spectacular, that I was quick to visit a second time a week late. Spoiler alert – It is already serving some of the best and most creative dishes in Fairfield County.

Blackbird is the newly opened addition of the Z Hospitality Group, which operates numerous, well-established restaurants in the area including Solé, Mediterraneo, Terra and East End. The narrow and long space is akin to the Solé layout, with tables in the front and a long bar and tables once you reach the mid-point. Unlike Solé, the kitchen is not open to full view, but is located behind doors in the rear. The front area serves guests on traditional tables while high-tops are stationed along the left wall in the rear half, which it shares with the long bar on the right. I was initially concerned about the potential for difficulty in hearing (a la Solé) but I was pleasantly surprised that the ambient noise in the front was friendly and the high-tops across from the bar were even better.

During our two visits, I enjoyed several of their newly designed, and expertly prepared dishes.

I ordered two different appetizers on my visits. The first was the Yellow Fin Tuna Noodles served atop tapenade and radish sprouts ($21). The first question…what are “tuna noodles.” If you think of long, square strands of sliced tuna, you’ve nailed it. The kitchen arranges several long strands sitting atop the pureed tapenade, another different interpretation. This Mediterranean-inspired puree delivered a completely different profile than the ever-present Asian tuna tartare that resides on 95% of the local menus. This was a totally different profile, earthy, bright, and rich all in one bite. I was impressed that the chef created a more creative use of the tuna and really liked the combination and it set the stage nicely for the other dishes. 

The other appetizer I ordered was the Amish Chicken Wings with a chili ginger glaze and served with peanuts and scallions ($12). This was a very unusual choice for me, but I am glad I did. The dish included three full wings (both the drums and flats) covered in sticky sauce and finished with peanuts and some sliced scallions. As I gingerly (no pun intended) bit into the first section I was really impressed, they exploded with flavor, not temperature. Thank you to the kitchen as the wings arrived at an edible temperature, not so hot as to incinerate my mouth with bite #1. The sauce had a delightful flavor, with just the right amount of spiciness (I give it a 4-5 on the spice meter) and a ton of Asian influence, and the crunchiness of the peanuts was a great addition. I thought the wings were fantastic.   

For my entrée choices, I went in two totally different directions.

On the first visit, I ordered the Wild Black Sea Bass with pea miso puree, asparagus, and morel mushrooms ($35). What can I say other than the fish, puree and asparagus were beyond spectacular? Blackbird offers a large filet sitting atop pencil-thin charred asparagus and both nestled in the pea puree. Sitting alongside these elements was a few morel mushrooms (one of my favorite varieties). A little dab of the puree and I knew this was going to be special, then a fork through the ultra-crispy skin and into the fish, expectations elevated more, and then the combo. Wow! The fish was perfectly prepared and with the puree, created an out-of-this-world combo. The asparagus added even more flavors. While I was extremely excited with the prospect of the morels, they were the one disappointment. Unfortunately, they absorbed a lot of the vinegar in the sauce, they lost all their earthy goodness. Overall, this was one of the best fish dishes I have eaten in quite some time.

If you have been following my decade of Fairfield County dining, you know I am a sucker for a good burger. When I saw Blackbird’s interpretation of the Double Bacon Smash® Burger on the menu, it was like magnets of opposite polarity, gotta get connected. The Blackbird Smash Burger includes onions, mushrooms, melted Gruyere cheese, baconaisse & pickled tomato ($25). All of my faves were encased in a sesame seed bun, Blackbird created an amazing new combination to this century-old burger tradition. Start with a couple of seared patties, and first take a few cues from French onion soup with the addition of soft, caramelized onions and melted Gruyere cheese. It was a great idea, but what about some mushrooms, yeah that should add some earthy qualities, but you also need some lettuce and tomato, not just a simple slice of tomato, Blackbird went to the left by adding a slice of pickled tomato. And if that was not enough, let’s throw some bacony mayo on the bun. It must have been as much fun to create as it was to eat. It was one of my favorite combinations in a long time, thank you.  Blackbird also added some fries on the side in the New Canaan-approved silver chalice. To say I liked the burger would be an understatement.

We also ordered a few desserts for the table to share. The big hit was the Japanese Donuts with lemon curd and strawberry sauce. Five golf-ball-sized orbs were accompanied by a small dish of lemon curd and strawberry sauce. Everyone can decide on the level and combination of flavors… the naked donuts were delicious and with each added topping, they became even better. The donuts were a great ending to the meal.

After only a short time, Blackbird has elevated itself to one of the best in New Canaan. The vibe was great, the acoustics allowed for table conversation, and the food was over the top delicious. So glad there is another great restaurant in New Canaan.