Every so often you’re blessed with an evening that feels like a perfect dining experience, the atmosphere, service, food, and company all in flawless rhythm. Such was our last visit to Arethusa al tavolo in Bantam. The attention to detail, farm-fresh ingredients, and warm hospitality created a rare dining experience that I’ll treasure long after the evening ended. If you’re lucky enough to snag a table, please make the trip.
To fully appreciate the cuisine of Arethusa al tavolo, it is essential to understand the history of Arethus Farms. Purchased in 1868 by the Webster family and named after a pink swamp orchid, the farm supplied milk and cheese to the Litchfield community for over a century. In 1999, fashion icons George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgaitis, two senior executives at Manolo Blahnik, as well as neighbors of the farm, purchased the land to avoid it being developed and to preserve its natural beauty. Soon after, they introduced purebred Holstein cows, later adding Jerseys and Brown Swiss. Their herd quickly gained national acclaim, with two champions, Melanie and Veronica, winning top honors at the World Dairy Expo. In 2001, Arethusa began bottling milk under its own label, and today its award-winning herd numbers over 350.
Originally, the two envisioned a wine and cheese bar (inspired by Puglia, Italy), next to Arethusa’s ice cream and cheese shop in downtown Bantam. But, after hiring Dan Magill, a chef with CIA and Daniel Boulud experience, they realized they needed a full restaurant to match his skills, and the trio opened Arethusa al tavolo in June 2013. The restaurant relies exclusively on the farm’s own dairy and other premium ingredients, a commitment to quality that’s earned it numerous accolades, including being named the state’s best in 2018.
Magill is no stranger to the produce and vineyards of the northeast, having grown up on Long Island’s North Fork. Over the years, his talent has been recognized with a James Beard Award as “Best Chef Northeast” in 2016, and “Chef of the Year” by the Connecticut Restaurant Association. Commenting on his use of the products from Arethusa Farms, he mentioned, “you always take more pride in the product that you are working with, when it is your own.”
The restaurant is divided into three dining areas. To the left of the entrance, running the length of the wall, is the bar, which serves guests on a first-come basis. To the right lies a single dining room with a mix of banquettes and tables, while the outdoor patio offers al fresco dining when the weather cooperates. When we entered, we were warmly greeted by the hostess, who escorted us to the table in the center of the main dining area. While I was initially concerned about the potential noise level, I was pleasantly surprised to find it was within an acceptable level.
We started the meal with two appetizers. I ordered the Yellowtail Tartare and my wife the Chilled Heirloom Tomato Soup.
If you haven’t tried Arethusa’s tartare, Magill’s version offers a bold twist on this classic. The plate is first adorned with slices of paper-thin radish and cucumber slices, before being topped with a long rectangle of cubed avocado supporting the main event, the silky yellowtail. This composition was finished with a spattering of tobiko and microgreens. Accompanying the tartare were house-made salt-and-vinegar chips, which added a briny crunch. Taken as a single bite, the dish bursts with creamy, sweet, salty, earthy, and fresh-fish flavors, elevated by the playful pop of tobiko. This was one of the freshest, most memorable tuna tartares I’ve tasted.
This is late summer in the Northeast, when sweet corn and tomatoes are at their ripest. Arethusa brought these two local ingredients together in a deceptively simple yet elegant tomato soup. The tomatoes were first emulsified into a velvety base and slightly thickened with the whipped ricotta, then a smattering of sweet corn kernels were added. The presentation was completed with tiny dollops of basil gelée and a sprinkle of microgreens. The result was a soup both deep and refreshingly bright, with its rich tomato sweetness highlighting the peak flavors of the season.
For her entrée, my wife ordered the Tahini glazed organic Scottish salmon served with tabbouleh, cucumber radish, seeds and Arethusa yogurt vinaigrette. The plate arrived with a large swath of tabbouleh down the center, with two large salmon filets leaning against it on either side. Sitting atop the filets were thin slices of radish, all finished with a dusting of microgreens. The first noticeable difference in this salmon was its sheen, the kitchen lacquered the filets with Tahini before presenting, which was a first for me. Let’s start with the Tabbouleh, the nutty, earthy bulgur paired perfectly with bursts of sweet tomato, while the fresh herbs added bright, lively notes. The salmon was impeccable, moist, rich, flavorful and was a great complement to the tabbouleh. This was one of the best salmon presentations I’ve ever tasted.
For my entrée, I chose the Nova Scotia halibut, gently poached in olive oil and set over sweet corn polenta, accompanied by tiny tomatoes, zucchini, chanterelles, seabeans, and bits of chorizo. The halibut was like none I have ever eaten. When I initially pulled a piece and, tasted it without the other items, I was in awe, moist, sweet, almost melting. The polenta celebrated the local corn harvest, its creamy base surrounded by a ring of basil oil. Sitting atop the polenta was a mélange of sweet corn kernels, the diced chanterelles, tomatoes, chorizo and more microgreens. Each was delicious on its own, but together they created a bite that was rich yet fresh, creamy yet crisp—absolutely the best halibut I’ve ever tasted in my life.
Should we order dessert? On our previous visit we were amazed by Death by Chocolate. It was now absent from the menu, replaced by the Chocolate Panna Cotta. We asked the server if it would it reach the level of the other chocolate dessert? She slyly smiled and said, “it is better.” Strong words, and we were up for the challenge.
Pastry Chefs do not receive the acclaim they deserve, and with the desserts at Arethusa, this one deserves a call-out. Stacy D’Angelo, the Executive Pastry Chef, brings a lifetime of training and experience to the kitchen. A child of restaurant industry professionals, D’Angelo’s childhood dream was to become a pastry chef. After attending Kaynor Technical High School for Culinary Arts, she completed her formal training at Johnson and Wales University for Baking and Pastry Arts. Her skills were further refined at Mohegan Sun Resort before joining the Arethusa family, first at Arethusa a mano as a pastry cook, then Pastry Sous, and eventually to her current position of Executive Pastry Chef at Arethusa al tavolo.
And yes, we fell in love with the Chocolate Panna Cotta, its description on the menu continued with cherry morello cheesecake, hazelnut crunch, mocha sauce, chocolate ice cream, and pickled cherries. What was presented was not at all what we expected. The composition included a wide ribbon of chocolate on the bottom of the plate with three major additions, an unbelievable cheesecake with a hint of cherry, a light and flavorful panna cotta and a scoop of Arethusa’s own divine chocolate ice cream. A few dollops of whipped cream and all topped with crumbled hazelnuts and the cherries. This was a master class in decadence and a whole new level of indulgence.
Our evening at Arethusa al tavolo was flawless. Few places pull farm, chef, and servers into such perfect harmony, allowing every ingredient to shine with effortless style. Grab someone you love, some friends, anyone who appreciates a great culinary adventure. Each dish was brilliant, every bite delightful, and the whole experience you’ll be talking about long after the last bite.
828 Bantam Rd, Bantam, CT 06750
Jfood Eats 