I’ve always believed the secrets to a truly great pizza are ingredients combined with a gentle balance. Each of the components needs to meld with the others, too much of one thing, and the whole pie could stumble.
After hearing a few positive comments about Rossano’s Pizza Lab on North Congress Ave. in Delray, I decided to give it a shot. It’s not the easiest place to find, it is hidden in one of the strip malls just north of Atlantic, the sign is subtle, and the pizzeria itself is tiny. Outside is a single picnic table and, when it’s not in use, Rossanos’ baby-blue pizza truck.
Inside, the ordering space is barely four feet by fifteen, with a narrow counter running along the right. Most of the space is dedicated to showcasing Sicilian pies ready for slice orders, and a small area at the end handles orders and payments. There are no tables or chairs, this was a take-out joint. Since I was interested in a Neapolitan style, and the only pre-made slices were Sicilian, I ordered a basic 12” cheese and waited outside at the picnic table.
When my pie was removed from the oven, it was piping hot, the crust had risen beautifully with just a little char in spots, and there was a generous amount of cheese. As I waited for it to cool, I sampled the crust. It was airy, flavorful and delicious. Next, the cheese was a good-quality whole-milk mozzarella. Finally, a bit of the sauce and it was bright, sweet, and lively. Positives on the three major ingredients.
But here’s where balance, or should I say imbalance, came into play. The toppings were too generous, lifting a slice with sauce and cheese intact was impossible. The first bite confirmed that there was way too much cheese. By the second slice, the crust had given up, the entire top (cheese and sauce) slid off, leaving me holding a bare wedge with a faint blush of sauce. I looked at the third slice, tried a bite, and ultimately surrendered.
I really wanted to like Rossano’s pizza more than I did. Individually, the crust, sauce, and cheese were excellent. But the execution was too much, too much, too much, and it distracted from the enjoyment. When I return, I’ll ask them to go light on the cheese, because with a little restraint, Rossano’s could be something special.
Every so often you’re blessed with an evening that feels like a perfect dining experience, the atmosphere, service, food, and company all in flawless rhythm. Such was our last visit to Arethusa al tavolo in Bantam. The attention to detail, farm-fresh ingredients, and warm hospitality created a rare dining experience that I’ll treasure long after the evening ended. If you’re lucky enough to snag a table, please make the trip.
To fully appreciate the cuisine of Arethusa al tavolo, it is essential to understand the history of Arethus Farms. Purchased in 1868 by the Webster family and named after a pink swamp orchid, the farm supplied milk and cheese to the Litchfield community for over a century. In 1999, fashion icons George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgaitis, two senior executives at Manolo Blahnik, as well as neighbors of the farm, purchased the land to avoid it being developed and to preserve its natural beauty. Soon after, they introduced purebred Holstein cows, later adding Jerseys and Brown Swiss. Their herd quickly gained national acclaim, with two champions, Melanie and Veronica, winning top honors at the World Dairy Expo. In 2001, Arethusa began bottling milk under its own label, and today its award-winning herd numbers over 350.
Originally, the two envisioned a wine and cheese bar (inspired by Puglia, Italy), next to Arethusa’s ice cream and cheese shop in downtown Bantam. But, after hiring Dan Magill, a chef with CIA and Daniel Boulud experience, they realized they needed a full restaurant to match his skills, and the trio opened Arethusa al tavolo in June 2013. The restaurant relies exclusively on the farm’s own dairy and other premium ingredients, a commitment to quality that’s earned it numerous accolades, including being named the state’s best in 2018.
Magill is no stranger to the produce and vineyards of the northeast, having grown up on Long Island’s North Fork. Over the years, his talent has been recognized with a James Beard Award as “Best Chef Northeast” in 2016, and “Chef of the Year” by the Connecticut Restaurant Association. Commenting on his use of the products from Arethusa Farms, he mentioned, “you always take more pride in the product that you are working with, when it is your own.”
The restaurant is divided into three dining areas. To the left of the entrance, running the length of the wall, is the bar, which serves guests on a first-come basis. To the right lies a single dining room with a mix of banquettes and tables, while the outdoor patio offers al fresco dining when the weather cooperates. When we entered, we were warmly greeted by the hostess, who escorted us to the table in the center of the main dining area. While I was initially concerned about the potential noise level, I was pleasantly surprised to find it was within an acceptable level.
We started the meal with two appetizers. I ordered the Yellowtail Tartare and my wife the Chilled Heirloom Tomato Soup.
If you haven’t tried Arethusa’s tartare, Magill’s version offers a bold twist on this classic. The plate is first adorned with slices of paper-thin radish and cucumber slices, before being topped with a long rectangle of cubed avocado supporting the main event, the silky yellowtail. This composition was finished with a spattering of tobiko and microgreens. Accompanying the tartare were house-made salt-and-vinegar chips, which added a briny crunch. Taken as a single bite, the dish bursts with creamy, sweet, salty, earthy, and fresh-fish flavors, elevated by the playful pop of tobiko. This was one of the freshest, most memorable tuna tartares I’ve tasted.
This is late summer in the Northeast, when sweet corn and tomatoes are at their ripest. Arethusa brought these two local ingredients together in a deceptively simple yet elegant tomato soup. The tomatoes were first emulsified into a velvety base and slightly thickened with the whipped ricotta, then a smattering of sweet corn kernels were added. The presentation was completed with tiny dollops of basil gelée and a sprinkle of microgreens. The result was a soup both deep and refreshingly bright, with its rich tomato sweetness highlighting the peak flavors of the season.
For her entrée, my wife ordered the Tahini glazed organic Scottish salmon served with tabbouleh, cucumber radish, seeds and Arethusa yogurt vinaigrette. The plate arrived with a large swath of tabbouleh down the center, with two large salmon filets leaning against it on either side. Sitting atop the filets were thin slices of radish, all finished with a dusting of microgreens. The first noticeable difference in this salmon was its sheen, the kitchen lacquered the filets with Tahini before presenting, which was a first for me. Let’s start with the Tabbouleh, the nutty, earthy bulgur paired perfectly with bursts of sweet tomato, while the fresh herbs added bright, lively notes. The salmon was impeccable, moist, rich, flavorful and was a great complement to the tabbouleh. This was one of the best salmon presentations I’ve ever tasted.
For my entrée, I chose the Nova Scotia halibut, gently poached in olive oil and set over sweet corn polenta, accompanied by tiny tomatoes, zucchini, chanterelles, seabeans, and bits of chorizo. The halibut was like none I have ever eaten. When I initially pulled a piece and, tasted it without the other items, I was in awe, moist, sweet, almost melting. The polenta celebrated the local corn harvest, its creamy base surrounded by a ring of basil oil. Sitting atop the polenta was a mélange of sweet corn kernels, the diced chanterelles, tomatoes, chorizo and more microgreens. Each was delicious on its own, but together they created a bite that was rich yet fresh, creamy yet crisp—absolutely the best halibut I’ve ever tasted in my life.
Should we order dessert? On our previous visit we were amazed by Death by Chocolate. It was now absent from the menu, replaced by the Chocolate Panna Cotta. We asked the server if it would it reach the level of the other chocolate dessert? She slyly smiled and said, “it is better.” Strong words, and we were up for the challenge.
Pastry Chefs do not receive the acclaim they deserve, and with the desserts at Arethusa, this one deserves a call-out. Stacy D’Angelo, the Executive Pastry Chef, brings a lifetime of training and experience to the kitchen. A child of restaurant industry professionals, D’Angelo’s childhood dream was to become a pastry chef. After attending Kaynor Technical High School for Culinary Arts, she completed her formal training at Johnson and Wales University for Baking and Pastry Arts. Her skills were further refined at Mohegan Sun Resort before joining the Arethusa family, first at Arethusa a mano as a pastry cook, then Pastry Sous, and eventually to her current position of Executive Pastry Chef at Arethusa al tavolo.
And yes, we fell in love with the Chocolate Panna Cotta, its description on the menu continued with cherry morello cheesecake, hazelnut crunch, mocha sauce, chocolate ice cream, and pickled cherries. What was presented was not at all what we expected. The composition included a wide ribbon of chocolate on the bottom of the plate with three major additions, an unbelievable cheesecake with a hint of cherry, a light and flavorful panna cotta and a scoop of Arethusa’s own divine chocolate ice cream. A few dollops of whipped cream and all topped with crumbled hazelnuts and the cherries. This was a master class in decadence and a whole new level of indulgence.
Our evening at Arethusa al tavolo was flawless. Few places pull farm, chef, and servers into such perfect harmony, allowing every ingredient to shine with effortless style. Grab someone you love, some friends, anyone who appreciates a great culinary adventure. Each dish was brilliant, every bite delightful, and the whole experience you’ll be talking about long after the last bite.
Whether you are traveling north or south on Route 121 in North Salem, it would be a great idea to stop at 121 Restaurant and Bar. Located on the rural portion of this state road, a few miles south of its intersection with I-84, the restaurant is recognizable from its farmer’s porch and singular sign. Inside, you’ll find a mix of bar and table seating, and in good weather, enjoy a table on its wrap-around porch. 121 offers some really good food in a relaxed environment.
On a quiet Sunday afternoon, we chose an outside table with out of state friends. I decided to order the Fried Chicken Sandwich, described on the menu as crispy fried chicken thighs, Jalapeno cabbage slaw, shallot aioli, pickles, on a toasted brioche bun, served with Old Bay shoestring fries. Sounds like a winner, but I wasn’t sure how spicy the slaw would be with the addition of the jalapeño, so I asked that this be served on the side.
I am a big fan of fried chicken (who isn’t) and using the thighs makes it better, juicier, more flavorful and much less likely to be served dry as a result of overcooking badly prepared than the breast.
When it arrived, it looked great, the chicken was golden brown, with a few slices of pickles beneath, with the shallot aioli hidden under the top half of the brioche, a side of slaw sat next to the sandwich. The fries were served in the now-standard silver chalice. I first tasted the slaw to determine its spiciness, barely any hint, it was creamy and could definitely join the other ingredients between the bun.
The first bite was delicious, the chicken was moist, flavorful, crunchy, and the bread-coating had just a touch of seasoning. The pickles were fantastic, probably house-made with just a little sourer than a half & half, and the slaw added a delightful creaminess. I would be remiss if I did not mention a special callout for the brioche bun, it was one of the best I have enjoyed in a long time, it was buttery, light and sweet. I would give this sandwich a 10.
I wish I were as enamored with the fries. They were good but took a backseat to the sandwich. We also ordered a side of sweet potato fries. While the exterior was very crispy, the interior would have benefited from a little more time in the fryer.
Overall, 121 Restaurant and Bar was a delightful choice to meet our friends and exactly what I was hoping for. The fried chicken sandwich was outstanding, and on our next visit I would order one for the table to share. This is definitely on the A-list as an off-the-beaten-path stop for a relaxed meal.
Overall, 121 Restaurant and Bar was the perfect spot to meet friends and delivered exactly what I was hoping for. The fried chicken sandwich was the clear standout, the next time I’d order one just for the table to share. With its off-the-beaten-path vibe and cuisine, 121 earns a solid place on the A-list for a relaxed and memorable meal.
Sometimes watching the evolution of a restaurant is as enjoyable as tasting its culinary creations. Even before Elm opened in 2012, I watched its opening chef painstakingly develop the initial menu, while the owners meticulously crafted their vision into the beautiful, warm and relaxing environment. The restaurant took an exciting turn in 2015 when Chef Luke Venner took control of the kitchen, and his current menu is widely regarded as one of the best in the state. My wife and I recently stopped in for an al fresco lunch. I was glad when I spotted Venner in the kitchen, it gave me a chance to say hello, catch up and hear his thoughts on his current offerings.
We grabbed an outdoor table under an umbrella, looked over the menu and ordered a few of our favorite things.
It’s become our ritual to order the Guacamole with cilantro and warm blue corn tostadas. When it arrived, I first noticed the new plating, with six air-puffed blue tostados sprouting vertically from the plate. Elm’s guacamole is one of my favorites, so creamy with earthy richness. The serving allowed for each large velvety forkful to counterbalance perfectly with the crunchy blue corn tostados. Each bite reminded me why this is a must-order introduction on each visit.
Sitting alongside the guacamole on the table was the newly introduced Burrata with glazed figs and basil. The kitchen split open an individual burrata, which allowed its creaminess to spread across the entire dish and then topped the cheese with the glazed halved figs and a sprinkling of basil leaves. This was the first time I ever tasted this combination, and certainly not the last. The natural sweetness of the figs was enhanced by the glaze, making it a perfect complement to the creaminess of the burrata, and the basil added a delicate reminder of fresh herbs. This was a great way to begin the meal.
We also enjoyed the Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with avocado, ponzu, crispy shallots & taro chips. Elm’s version takes this classic dish to an elevated level. The large-diced tuna sat atop a bed of creamy avocado, but Venner’s addition of the Ponzu added salty, sweet and sour components. Not to stop there, the addition of crisped shallots and sesame seeds added a deep and playful additions, while the taro chips completed the profile with their nutty crispiness. Elm’s version is one of my favorite renditions of this dish.
For my entrée I went full comfort zone with my traditional stand-by, the Double-double animal style. Elm offers guests the choice of “pink” or “no-pink,” and I wanted to test the “pink” doneness. Every time this burger arrives at the table I am in awe of its resemblance to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, its height approaches six inches. So many incredible elements to enjoy, two pink seared patties, pickles, tomatoes, shredded lettuce, onions, and special sauce, sharing the plate with an enormous helping of fries. While I would love to try to lift and bite, I knew better and grabbed the knife and fork. Each mouthful had so many flavors, so many textures, so much goodness. I still think this is one of the best burgers in CT. And let’s not forget the fries, also some of the best that CT has to offer.
If this was not enough, how about Venner’s decadent version of Mac & Cheese, topped with fresh truffle slices? It arrived at our table directly from the oven, bubbling hot, so take care not touching the serving bowl. We allowed the flavors to meld as the dish cooled and carefully scooped a forkful of pasta, held together by the cheesy gooeyness and a few chunks of bacon. It was delicious. Each bite was richer than the previous and when we added a slice of the truffle, it elevated the entire forkful with its deep, rich earthiness. This Mac & Cheese is a must-share portion, not only for its size, but everyone should enjoy this adult version of their childhood.
For the last thirteen years, Elm has been at the forefront of New Canaan’s culinary scene. Chef Luke Venner transforms fresh ingredients into creative combinations that challenge the senses. From the sweet-creamy figs-burrata to the down and dirty Double-Double, to the decadent Mac & Cheese, each dish was unmistakably distinctive, delicious, and a pure pleasure to enjoy. Elm continues to prove why it is one of the best restaurants in Connecticut.
Located overlooking the scenic Quinnipiac River in the northeast section of New Haven, Fair Haven Oyster Company offers a tranquil escape with a focus on fresh, locally inspired cuisine. On a beautiful summer evening, I was fortunate enough to snag an outdoor table right on the rail. With the river gently flowing beside us, two of us enjoyed a relaxing meal centered around fresh ingredients and thoughtfully prepared seafood.
Fair Haven Oyster Company is housed in a modest wooden structure that does not give justice to the dining experience. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a friendly hostess who escorted us to the back patio. Other seating options include reservable bar seats and tables along the barn-boarded interior walls that give the space a rustic, casual charm. Fortunately for us, we were headed out to the porch, which turned out to be the perfect setting for a relaxed and memorable summer evening.
The menu reflected the bounty of the season, with a strong emphasis on fish and seafood. Visiting in mid-July, it included a generous selection of fresh salads and seafood preparations, all highlighting the kitchen’s commitment to high-quality ingredients and simplicity.
We started the evening with two very different appetizers that we both wanted to try. It was the perfect way to sample a bit more of what the kitchen had to offer, and to set the tone for the meal ahead.
The first appetizer was the tomatoes and ricotta, served with grilled cucumber, torn basil, fried shallots and bottarga. Generously portioned, it was easily shareable between the two of us. The presentation began with a broad smear of creamy ricotta as the base, topped with four thick tomato slices, two red and two yellow, along with a handful of cherry tomatoes and the grilled cucumber. The cucumbers, which seemed to have been lightly pickled before grilling, added a tangy contrast, and the scattered fried shallots and shavings of bottarga brought texture and umami, while torn basil and a drizzle of olive oil finished the dish. The tomatoes were bright, refreshing, and full of flavor, though one slice was slightly overripe and lacked the firmness of the others. Still, the combination of textures and flavors worked beautifully. It was a strong start to the meal, a solid 8.
We also ordered the baby lettuces with fried oysters, green goddess dressing, pickled shallots, and bonito. This was also a generous portion, and we enjoyed sharing both the appetizers. A mix of red and green leaf lettuces formed the base, lightly dressed in just enough green goddess to enhance, without overwhelming. The pickled shallots and bonito flakes added a slight depth and complexity. The fried oysters, about half a dozen, were cooked perfectly, but the coating lacked any noticeable seasoning (on a subsequent visit the seasoning on the oysters was much better), which was the one shortcoming of the dish, and kept it from reaching its full potential. I’d give the first visit a 7, which increased to a 9 with the properly seasoned oysters.
For my entrée, I chose one of my favorite fishes, a bone-in skate wing (pictured above), pan-seared and served with capers, Meyer lemon, tomato preserves, and brown butter. The result was nothing short of spectacular. Although the server offered to debone it, I declined, part of the eating pleasure of eating skate is carefully removing the meat immediately prior to each bite. The piece was cooked to perfection, with the flesh remaining moist and rich, while the quick pan-sear added a delightful contrast in texture. Each element on the plate contributed beautifully, the Meyer lemon sauce was bright and zesty, the capers brought just the right hint of saltiness, and the sun-dried tomatos delivered a delightful, concentrated burst of flavor. Altogether, it was a flawlessly executed dish, an easy 10.
My wife ordered the grilled Dorade, served with Gigante beans, artichoke, and preserved lemon, another standout. The whole fish arrived marked with symmetric cross-hatched grill lines. After removing the head and tail, the first bite confirmed that the preparation was as great as the presentation. We were pleasantly surprised that the fish was deboned (this was a positive versus my desire to de-bone my Skate), and the first bite delivered a perfect balance of crispy skin and tender, moist flesh. The Dorade was nestled atop a smooth Gigante bean purée, with additional whole beans layered over the fish for added texture. To complete the presentation, the kitchen added a few deep-fried artichoke halves, which brought both visual appeal and a satisfying crunch. It was easily one of the best preparations of Dorade we’ve ever had, another easy 10.
Service was as good as the entrees, flawless, unobtrusive and present when required.
Fair Haven Oyster Company strikes a rare balance, an unfussy environment within friendly surroundings, a thoughtful menu, and a laid-back, yet attentive service. It is a wonderful way to spend an evening.
Bar is located at 254 Crown Street in New Haven, CT, in an industrial building that proudly boasts its historical heritage with exposed brick, garage-style doors that open in warm weather, and vintage prints. As you walk through the different rooms and look at the food-beer offerings, you wonder whether Bar is a pizzeria that serves great pizza with a side of beer, or a microbrewery that drafts in-house microbrews with a side of New Haven pizza. For us, we were there for the pizza, and our single question was how it would compare to the other legendary New Haven pizzas.
Bar offers four rooms, each with a different atmosphere where guests can relax with a pizza, sample an array of house-brewed beers and specialty cocktails, enjoy the music, get serious with some pool on the antique pool table or have a whirl on the dance floor. The Front Room, to the left of the entrance, features a long bar with lots of stools, several tables and the antique pool table. The Lounge and the Back Room include communal picnic tables, standard seating and a large dance floor. The last option, and the one we chose, is situated immediately to the right of the entrance, the Brü Room, which includes a second large bar, towering beer tanks along one wall, with additional tanks overlooking the activity hovering above on the second-floor balcony. In the rear of the Brü Room is pizza central, a large open prep area and brick ovens turning out BAR’s signature oblong pies.
Founded in 1991 by Randy Hoder, Kenny Spitzbard and Stuart Press, Bar opened as a bar and dance club. Five years later, in 1996, the team decided to add food, and not just any food, they decided to go all-in by focusing on the most competitive product in the area, pizza. Within a square mile where some say is the best pizza in the country, how would Bar separate its pizza from the others? Let’s start with the crust. Bar’s crust is ultra-thin, approaching transparent; there is absolutely no rise at all. This was a risky play in a town where charred crusts are expected, and overbaking this thin a crust must be avoided at all costs; great care must be taken by the kitchen.
We grabbed our table and after looking at the menu we decided on a medium pizza, with sausage and pepperoni added to one half and just melted cheese and sauce on the other (I made a mental note to try the much-hyped mashed potato and bacon version next time).
The pizza arrived on a sheet pan, its size nearly filling the tray from edge to edge. There were several items that should be noted. First, the shape was neither the traditional circular nor a free-form structure, but prepared in a nearly symmetric oblong. The second item was its thickness, or lack of thickness, the crust was paper-thin, almost transparent and topped with an equally thin layer of sauce. The cheese was the third level of thinness, applied sparingly and nicely melted. The edges had a minor level of charring, much less than its nearby brethren, but still enough to qualify as New Haven. The pie was finished with a good amount of my requested toppings.
First, I needed to taste this paper-thin crust. I snapped off a piece, it was more cracker-like than a traditional, airy pizza crust. Then, I focused on the meats, and there was no surprise with the Lamberti sausage chunks, they are some of the best in the state, very flavorful, meaty with great fennel back notes. Next was a taste of the thinly sliced pepperoni, the spiciness landed slightly above medium, and given its modest neighbors, thin was probably the best way to balance its boldness.
Now for the real test, as I focused on a plain slice. My initial thought was that it would have benefited from another minute and maybe another turn in the oven, it sagged a little in the middle and the center was less crispy than the edges, I needed to flip it over onto itself to lift. The first bite was good, the sauce was terrific, bright, sweet and tangy and very well done, the cheese was too mild and definitely took a back seat to the sauce, and the extra-thin crust could have been more present. The plain slice was good, but not up to my high expectations.
The meat-laden half told a different story. It was no surprise that it also needed a center-flip to lift. It only required one bite to confirm that the addition of the sausage and pepperoni was a huge benefit. The saltiness, spiciness and fennel notes from the meats elevated each bite; the local Lamberti sausage was great, rich, and flavorful, and when combined in a single bite with the thin slices of pepperoni, the sweet sauce and minimal cheese, the slice came together and was very good. Again, it would have benefited from another minute in the oven to crisp the crust. I thought the meat-laden side came closer to my expectations.
Overall, BAR’s pizza delivered a solid experience. I arrived with high expectations due to its reputation and devoted following. While my pie didn’t quite send me over the top, it was undeniably good. Watching other tables devour pan after pan, each with different toppings, made it clear why BAR draws such a crowd. It’s definitely a destination spot, the kind of place where beer, dancing, atmosphere, energy, and food come together. In a city where the pizza standards are sky-high, BAR does a good job.
“Community table’s mission is to sustainably prepare the highest quality, locally grown, and procured ingredients to serve its community in a casual, vibrant atmosphere. Ct values its partnerships with local farms that bring the best produce of the season to create delicious recipes for their customer’s enjoyment each time they visit the restaurant.”
From Community table Website
Community table is housed in a nondescript, quaint structure on Route 202 in New Preston, and presents a dining experience that blends effortlessly into its rural setting. The only recognizable landmark to announce your arrival is a simplistic roadside sign with a singular orange “Ct” logo on a white background, reflecting the restaurant’s core value: a strong focus on community with an upper case “C” and a less formal, more shared dining experience at the table with a lower case “t”. A farmer’s porch extends across the front of the building, and a large parking lot is located to one side. The entrance is immediately to the left of a striking, vertically soaring, organic, red metal sculpture, leading guests directly into the bar area.
The hostess extends a warm greeting when you enter the bar, the most lively of the restaurant’s three dining areas. Choose this room or wander down the hallway to the right and into the second room, which provides both a communal atmosphere with its large table, or a few intimate, two-person tables. Continue to the third, and my personal favorite, secluded back room, which blends warmth and elegance, creating a relaxed atmosphere for conversation amongst the couples, as well as shared amongst friends.
Overseeing the kitchen since September 2023 is head chef Bolivar Hilario, who describes his culinary style as a fusion of his family’s Mexican heritage with French, Italian, Nordic and Japanese influences. He was raised in Florida, and once he found his passion for cooking, he travelled to New York and worked for Enrique Olvera, the world-renowned Mexican chef at Cosme, thereafter he broadened his skills at Aska, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant known for its Scandinavian-inspired cuisine, Chumley’s, the Michelin-starred Musket Room, and 69 Leonard and Shoji, where he was introduced to Japanese theories and techniques. He credits the experiences at 69 Leonard and Shoji as his epiphany to the Japanese centuries-honed principles of preparation and allowing the food to speak for the dish, a constant he currently incorporates into each of his creations at Ct.
The menu exposes the guests to flavors and textures to dazzle the palate, unveiling combinations designed to awaken the senses. Espousing the Farm to Table mantra, Halario has developed relationships with local growers like Renée Giroux at Earth’s Palate in Warren, The Oracle Mushroom Company in Kent and Crafted Brew Lab in Bantam and as well as others in the region. Wanting the guests to enjoy these bounties year-round, he not only prepares the fresh vegetables and herbs for the daily menu but also preserves and ferments many for his winter guests to enjoy.
I highly recommend starting the culinary adventure by ordering the house-made six-grain sourdough bread with herb butter. Hilario’s personal sourdough starter is the foundation of the bread, baked fresh several days per week. This is one of the most delicious breads anywhere, served with herb butter, and showcases a firm crust and a moist, opaque interior, delivering a richness that sets the stage for the remainder of your visit.
The current menu offers several delightful options, the first a Blue Corn flour tlayuda. This dish, akin to a flat, topped taco, features house-made, extra-thin tortillas layered with a savory salsa macha base, generously adorned with locally sourced Oracle mushrooms, a creamy caramelized cauliflower puree, delicate tiny purple onions, vibrant Earth’s Palate flowers (from Warren, CT), and a scattering of queso fresco. It was presented in four wedges, and the visual composition was matched only by its remarkable flavors. The first bite was an explosion of flavors and textures, beginning with the earthiness of a myriad of mushrooms and other vegetables and herbs, and finishes with a shot of spiciness.
For those interested in a bright and light entrée, choose the steamed squash blossoms, stuffed with shrimp mousseline, Guajillo pepper, squash, Earth’s Palate shiso, red pepper mole, and topped with wild forage tiger lily petals. While squash blossoms are normally filled with cheese and fried, Halario’s presentation softens the approach with a steamed version, stuffed with a mousseline of Gulf shrimp, cream, chives and a touch of one of his favorite herbs, tarragon. The dish was finished with a light sauce made from the shrimp shells to which he added some dashi from his Japanese training, plus chive and ramp oils. He described the dish as “local meets Japanese…with my heritage of Mexican cuisine.” The dish was fantastic, light, flavorful and full of aromatics from the oils and herbs.
Leave room for dessert because the new dessert chef is creating incredible final acts.
The first was a deconstructed “strawberry shortcake” which takes the three basic elements, sweet strawberries, tender almond gluten-free shortcake, and rich whipped cream, to a higher level with the addition of a scoop of strawberry ice cream, slightly spiked with a touch of vodka. The composition began with the cylindrical deliciousness of the shortbread, which was about as perfect as any I have tasted, then the chef surrounded this disk with a delightful and deliciously creamy whipped cream. The final element, the strawberries, which have been poached in lemon verbena to enhance the fruit’s natural sweetness were placed atop. The chef topped this creation with dehydrated strawberry flakes. The addition of the strawberry ice cream elevated this traditional dessert to a new level with additional flavors. The strawberry shortcake was brilliantly prepared.
The other highly recommended dessert is the flourless chocolate cake with house-made coffee ice cream and puffed quinoa. Where do I begin describing these three levels of perfection? The chocolate cake was over-the-top outstanding, moist, chocolatey, with richness oozing from every bite. This alone would have been completely satisfying, but Halario added a scoop of Ct’s house-made coffee ice cream that sat atop the cake. Then, for some textural fun, Halario added a sprinkling of puffed quinoa. The complete bite brought so many delicious sweets and crunch to the palate; it was perfect in every way.
Overall, Connecticut table is one of the best restaurants in the state. Devoid of any pretense, it harvests the natural flavors of the ingredients using century-old techniques with modern flair. The environment is relaxing to the senses, while the cuisine elevates each aspect of the ingredients in combinations that tantalize every part of the palate. Chef Halario’s journey to understand numerous cuisines is a complete success in every dish.
I guess after making pizza for over fifty years, it comes as no surprise that one of the best pizzas in the greater New Haven area, as well as one of the best pizzas in CT, is made by Pasqual (Pat) DeRiso at Ernie’s Pizza. Pat is the second-generation owner of Ernie’s, which was started by his father and mother, Ernesto (Ernie) and Jennie De Riso, in 1971. Pat purchased the business in 1989 and now continues the family tradition, personally crafting every single pizza that comes out of the oven.
Located on Whalley Avenue, a few blocks south of Exit 59 of Route 15 (let others argue whether it is the Merritt or Wilbur Cross), Ernie’s is housed in a modest, standalone building marked only by a simple red and white sign that reads “Ernie’s Pizzeria Specializing in Pizza Since 1971.” Specializing…no truer words have ever been posted.
Ernie’s doesn’t always receive the same love and attention from New Haven pizza aficionados, perhaps due to its location, four miles (about 20 minutes) north of Wooster Street. I will state, without reservation, without a second thought, without even a moment’s hesitation: Ernie’s serves some of the most spectacular pizza you will ever enjoy.
With ample off-street parking, guests enter a single dining space that feels both welcoming and nostalgic. The room features ten booths that each seat four, a few cozy booths for two, and about twenty additional seats at standalone tables. Adorning the walls are pizza caricatures, a pizza peel commemorating Ernie’s 45th anniversary, and a photo dating back some 50+ years. At the center of the room is “Pizza Central,” where Pat stands as the centerpiece. From this vantage point, he lovingly stretches the dough, ladles on the sauce, spreads the grated cheese, and adds the requested toppings with care and precision. During my visit, I watched Pat craft pie after pie, each one made with focused attention and heartfelt pride. There’s no assembly-line feel, every pizza is a personal reflection of Pat’s dedication.
Even as a one-man pizza-making operation, Pat still finds the time to greet and chat with nearly every customer, whether at their table or picking up their order. He asks about families, shares a few laughs, and trades stories, many with regulars who’ve been coming to Ernie’s for years. When I asked Pat if he knew all his customers, he offered a sheepish smile and simply said, “I have a loyal following.” Even on my very first visit, Pat took time to visit my table, check in, and share a bit of Ernie’s history. We talked about his passion for quality, his commitment to making every pie meet his high standards, and what the future might hold. From a customer’s point of view, my visit was like hanging out at a friend’s house, catching up, shooting the breeze and having some great slices.
On to the pies.
Ernie’s offers three pizza sizes: a small (12”), a medium (16”), and a large (20”). I opted for the medium, split between meatball on one side and both sausage and pepperoni on the other side. Adding meatballs was a slight departure from my usual order, but my pre-visit research turned up one consistent note, Ernie’s meatballs were supposedly delicious. I had to find out for myself.
The pie was delivered by one of the servers, and it looked tremendous. The edges were slightly charred, just enough to suggest a well-fired bake. There was a generous layer of cheese, and I was required to look closely to distinguish between the two different toppings’ sides. The generous amounts of toppings also gave the first indication that there would be a good flop when I attempted to lift the first few slices.
The first sample was a quick taste of the crust. It had a mild flavor, a medium crunch on the outside, and a slightly soft interior. I next grabbed a sausage round. Pat uses Lamberti sweet sausage, which he first bakes and then thickly slices. As a longtime fan of Lamberti, I wasn’t surprised to find that the sausage slices were excellent, they were juicy, savory, and perfectly cooked. Then a taste of the pepperoni, it was crispy along the edge with a medium-level heat, and offered just the right amount of kick. They were also delicious. Finally, the big test, the meatball. Would it live up to my research? Absolutely. These house-made chunks of meatballs were moist, flavorful, and packed with a rich, beefy punch. They actually exceeded my expectations. The meats were a perfect 3-for-3. Next, I checked the underside of the crust, and Pat absolutely nailed it. It had that ideal medium-dark tan, signaling a perfectly balanced bake. As I pulled up the first slice, the melted cheese gave that beautiful, long, thin stretch, a classic sign of a well-made pie.
As expected, the slices were a bit tricky to lift, but my persistence paid off. If needed, plastic forks and knives are provided.)
The first bite of the meatball side was pure heaven, so much flavor and balance. The combination of crust, sauce, cheese and meat was nothing short of spectacular. I forced myself to slow down and savor every bite. It was a challenge, simply because you wanted more. Then came the sausage-and-pepperoni side, and it delivered just as brilliantly. The saltiness of the two meats, the creamy melt of the cheese, and the brightness of the tomato sauce created a rich, satisfying harmony. Curious about his sauce, I asked Pat, and he shared that it’s made simply from crushed tomatoes and seasoning, uncooked before hitting the stretched dough. That tomato freshness came through in every bite, giving the pizza the brightness to complement the cheese and meats.
Overall, I loved Ernie’s and is a pizzeria that should not be missed. The atmosphere and the pizza are great and then there is the owner and premier pizzaiola, Pat, who makes every visit special for every guest.
Has there ever been a place where you constantly drive by without a second thought. You think the sign is cute, you tell yourself you will go at some point, and you never do. Suddenly, people mention the place in conversation, twice, three times in the same week, you ask around and everyone loves it. You finally remember to look on-line, decide to go and look to make a reservation but do not see a “reservations” tab on their website. You finally do what was popular 20 years ago, you pick up the phone, call and ask if they accept reservations and are surprised when they say, “of course.” And then you go and enjoy a great meal.
So was my experience at John’s Café in Waterbury.
John’s Café is located on Route 67 just east of where it meets Route 64. With its non-descript sign over the door, John’s Café looks like it would serve coffee, pastries and breakfast, but enter and the aromas of homestyle Italian cuisine will tell you otherwise. Overseeing the kitchen for close to 25 years is Chef / Owner Dennis DeBelllis.
The interior is New England meets Italy, maintaining that Yankee image, but with white linen tablecloths topped with white paper. The water glasses were already filled when we sat, and the menu described numerous options, ranging from house-made pastas to chops, fish, steaks and salads. Our server approached and recited the daily specials (a la Italian Shrimp and Grits) and ended with, “everything is made to order so it you want to add to or take something away from one of the dishes, just let me know.” The “we are here to please” attitude was refreshing.
It was a Monday evening and as I looked at the other tables, it felt that the guests were the Monday regulars, they all seemed to be in their assigned table, enjoying their normal Monday fare. The atmosphere was home-style, friendly, family, small town.
As we looked over the menu and heard that the pastas were made on-premises we decided to focus on that part of the menu. We ordered a couple of Caesar salads to begin, plus the “Sunday Gravy,” Potato gnocchi alla Vodka and the Chicken Parmesan that is served with rigatoni alla Vodka. Any restaurant that serves alla Vodka as the side to the Parm is OK in my book.
As we waited for our salads, the server brought a plate of bread and ciabatta and she told us, “I asked for the humus a couple of times and I think we are out, so I brought some red sauce.” Ten minutes later the humus joined the table. The bread and ciabatta were good, and I liked the red sauce for dipping.
Two of us split a “Caesar Romaine, Grilled Garlic Croutons, Creamy Parmesan Dressing, White Anchovies” ($12) and it was very good. The Romaine was topped with a Parmesan crisp, and since I asked for the anchovy on the side, I sliced and diced these two additions into the salad. The romaine was crispy, fresh and the dressing was sparingly applied and offered a nice flavor. It was a very good way to start the meal. I give the Caesar salad a 7.
The table decided to share the ““Sunday Gravy” Rigatoni Pasta, with a Meatball and Italian Sausage Ragú” ($26). The bowl of house-made pasta was perfectly prepared to al dente and was covered in a delicious red sauce, a half a dozen golf ball sized meatballs (the menu stated singular, but they actual dish included many more) and loads of sausage slices. The pasta delivered just the right amount of give, not too soft, not too hard, the meatballs were firm, moist and offered great beefiness and the sausage slices added just a touch of spice and fennel. Everyone at the table really enjoyed this dish and I give it a solid 8.5.
The other “pasta” we ordered was the “Potato Gnocchi Alla Vodka With Whipped Ricotta and Basil” ($25). I usually gravitate to ricotta gnocchi, so I started with a little bias, but this dish changed my outlook, it was delicious. Another large bowl of perfectly prepared 2-inch cylindrical gnocchi were soft and subtle, and when combined with the Vodka sauce delivered deep, rich flavors. With the addition of the ricotta to any forkful and you enjoy a totally different profile, with the light, cooling cheese component. I really liked this presentation and another 8.5.
Lastly, I decided to give the “Chicken Parmesan With Rigatoni Alla Vodka” ($26) a taste. With the two pastas setting a very high bar, I was a little nervous, but the chef delivered another great dish. The cutlet was quite large, filled the entire plate with pieces of rigatoni peaking around the edges from under the cutlet. The crispy chicken was first topped with John’s red sauce and then melted cheese. Served piping hot, I carefully cut a piece from the edge, let cool just a bit and carefully tasted. The crunch was great, the flavor great, the sauce delicious and the cheese stringy to the plate. It was delicious. The red sauce and cheese were in perfect balance. I give the chicken parm a solid 8.5.
On a subsequent visit, I ordered the Grilled Pork Chop with scalloped potatoes, bacon-onion jam, green beans, carrots, and a few dollops of maple-bourbon whole-grain mustard. Let’s just say that you need to have a hearty appetite to finish this two bone chop. It was perfectly cooke to medium rare, a perfect way to serve pork. The best way to enjoy was to combine the bacon-onion jam with a little of the mustard and place atop a good slice of the meat. The flavors played great together. Not to be overshadowed by the chop, the potatoes were also great.
Service was professional with that small town feel. The kitchen prepared three, great, house-made Italian classics. The pasta was excellent, and gnocchi were delicious, and then the sauces were great. The staff worked as a team during our dinner, when one was busy, another seamlessly filled in to ensure the guests enjoyed the evening. Some may feel the pace was slow, we were having such great conversation, we enjoyed the timing, and most importantly every dish was served piping hot, all came directly to the table from the pan.
Overall, John’s Café was great. From that small town, welcoming feel to the great food. As we were leaving, our serving told us to make sure we returned to try the pork chop, she held her thumb and forefinger two inches apart and told me “It’s this thick.” I will definitely return to John’s Café to try the pork chop and maybe have a few other Italian specialties.
Over the past months, I’ve been on a quest to find the best pizza in the Valley, exploring Waterbury and its neighboring towns. Now, it feels like the right time to turn my attention to what many consider the epicenter of Connecticut pizza: New Haven. And when you arrive, you’re met with no shortage of options to explore.
When a couple of buddies and I were scheduling a pizza lunch, we decided to sidestep the potential chaos of Wooster Street and headed over a few blocks to Modern Apizza on State Street. Once you manage to find parking, be prepared to wait, and count yourself lucky if you have that lucky timing of an immediate opening. We arrived just after noon and, to our good fortune, a booth was open in the back room. We took it as a sign of good things to come. As soon as our server arrived, we ordered a couple of bottles of Foxon Park, Kola and Root Beer, then got down to topping talk. We kept it semi-classic: one pie fully loaded with pepperoni and the other topped with sausage and onion.
When the pies arrived, they looked spot-on, each boasting that signature New Haven-style char along the edges. Interestingly, the char was concentrated on just one side of each pie, suggesting the kitchen skipped the usual spin during baking. Both pizzas had a generous layer of cheese, perfectly melted. The pepperoni pie was especially impressive, absolutely loaded with slices that stretched right to the crust, a definite plus. The sausage and onion pie, however, was less generous, with a noticeable gap near the edges that felt like a missed opportunity for more flavor and balance.
I checked the underside of both pies, and the kitchen had done an excellent job; each crust was an even light tan with just a few charred spots, exactly what you’d hope for. With preparation and appearance checked off, it was time to dig in.
A quick pull of crust and it was delicious, not too dense, not too airy and just a hint of flavor. Onto the pepperoni, and these half-dollar sized circles were fantastic, just a touch of crispiness on the edges and a nice level of spiciness. The sausage, unfortunately, was not in the same category. I found the chunks to be a touch dense, and while it had nice fennel backnotes, it was not a standout in my opinion.
Now that the pizzas had cooled slightly, I pulled a sausage and onion slice and was happy to see long, stretchy strands of cheese still clinging to the base, a very good sign. The crust, sauce, and cheese were all excellent, but the sausage was in the back seat, too bland, and the onions were a more dominant contributor. Overall, I can only give this side a 7.5; the toppings were not to my liking.
The pepperoni, on the other hand, was a clear standout. Everything was in perfect balance, the crust was crispy, yet subtle, the sauce slightly sweet, the cheese rich and creamy, and the pepperoni brought just the right kick of spice and crunch. It hit every note: sweet, spicy, salty, creamy, and crispy. This side easily earned a perfect 10.
Our server was also great; she could not have been more friendly and efficient.
Overall, I completely agree that Modern is in the discussion as one of the best apizzas in New Haven for major components (crust, sauce, cheese, prep) and with that delicious pepperoni, the vibe and the friendly atmosphere, I would highly recommend.
Jfood Eats 