World-class BBQ returns to CT with the homecoming of renowned pitmaster Nestor Laracuente, who is overseeing the kitchen at Mason Dixon Smokehouse in Stamford. When I heard that Nestor was teaming up with Mason Dixon, I was ecstatic, the mounds of his perfectly prepared meats that I raved about at Hoodoo Brown were indelible etched in my memory. Would Mason Dixon fill the void that I have felt for months? Bottom line…yes, the food is spectacular.

Laracuente is a soft-spoken lover of meats and Southern rock who spent years perfecting his craft. After leaving CT last year, he returned to Brooklyn where he spent time with his buddy at Beast of Bourbon in Bed-Stuy. His time was spent experimenting with new rubs, new dishes, waiting for the right opportunity for his return to Connecticut. His newest venture, of which he is part-owner, opened a few weeks ago and it is slowly expanding the menu.

The interior is modern rustic, with rough-hewed-edged tables under Edison bulbs dangling from the ceiling, exposed brick from front to back along the right and a long bar on the left. There is seating to accommodate 85 at tables, another eight guests can sit at high-top tables overlooking the bar and more than a dozen bar stools. The walls are adorned with painted chalkboards proclaiming “Keep Calm it’s BBQ Time,” “BBQ is a Culture,” “BBQ is a Taste Memory,” and “Best BBQ in Town is Right Here.”

The bar offers eight beers ($7) on tap including Allagash White Ale, Bronx Pale Ale, Firefly Lizard’s Breath IPA and Stamford’s own Half Full Toasted Amber Ale. “Blue Collar Brewskies” are $4-5 and include PBR and Modelo Especial and an assortment of craft beers range from $5-8. Almost all of the beers are US brewed. Likewise, the bar offers a significant selection of US ryes, bourbons and single malts and a few Tequilas and Mezcals from Mexico. A craft cocktail menu includes named drinks Shallow Grave, Snake in My Boot and Austin-Tacious.

But the centerpieces of any BBQ joint are the meats and the sides, and Mason Dixon’s are slowly prepared in two 108” Lang smokers. The menu includes Appetizers of Macho Nachos with smoked brisket, QueTine, a BBQ poutine with a choice of BBQ over fries and finally smoked and deep-fried Wings. Three sandwiches are currently offered and include a Barnyard Rumble with both pulled pork and smoked brisket, Hogzilla with shaved ribs, Carolina pork and cracklin’ pork belly and a Black Friday with smoked turkey. Additional meats available for the Combos include St. Louis ribs, and smoked chicken. The sides include Brisket Beans, Mac-n-Cheese, Collard Greens, Cucumber Salad, Apple Slaw, Potato Salad, Seasoned Fries, Cranberry Sauce and Cherry-Carrot Salad.

I chose the Combo with three meats, cornbread and a side ($23), and elected the St. Louis Ribs, Brisket and Carolina Pork, plus the Brisket Beans for my side. When the platter arrived, I noticed the pork belly was present instead of the Carolina pork and the server was quick to bring me a separate portion of the pork, customer happiness is key.

The brisket was hand-sliced and delivered an abundance of juiciness and a moderate level of spice from the pepper-salt rub. There was a great smoke ring, with a thin strip of fat separating the crust from the meat, which was tender and rich in flavor. With a slight tug, the slices came part easily to enjoy each delectable morsel.

The St. Louis ribs were not only picture-perfect, they were perfect. Nestor’s new rub includes a hint of brown sugar to balance the salt and pepper rub and the meaty ribs were succulent throughout. The rub created a firm crust and a good level of smokiness. Avoid the urge to add any sauce to these ribs…let the meat and spices speak for themselves.

The Pork Belly at Mason Dixon sets a new standard. The large cubes were almost completely meat, nearly all of the fat was slowly rendered out. There was a thin layer of skin that was lightly crisped, just giving that little cracklin’ crunch when bit into. When a little sauce was added, it created a delicious canvas of flavors and fantastic balance of soft meaty texture offset by the slight crunch of the skin.

The smoked pork was also excellent. The portion included several large, thick slices of perfectly smoke pork. They were smoky, meaty and juicy. Of all the meats, the pork benefitted the most from the sauce as the rub was limited to the exterior of each thick cut. Adding the tangy and sweet sauce created a wonderful complementary balance to the rich pork.

The sides were equal to the challenge of accompanying the meats. The Brisket Beans was out of this world. The creamy beans were intermixed with chunks of brisket. The first bite took my palate in a different direction. While the other dishes focused on sweet and smoky, the beans brought in some spiciness, just enough to grab your attention. The house-made corn bread was moist, dense, with great texture. There was just a little touch of crunchiness throughout the piece, with sweetness kicking in from the thin layer of maple atop the cornbread. The carrot cherry salad was a little too sweet for my taste.

After my carnivorous extravaganza, Nestor stopped by the table. After he instructed the server to change the music to the Lynyrd Skynyrd station, I asked him what drove him in his BBQ passion. He slowly stroked his beard and told me “food is an important part of life…it brings people together. I saw the power of how a perfect piece of fried chicken could bring a group of teenagers together on a Sunday night. I then embraced the hardest parts of smoking, the rain, the cold, all to create the meats that would bring people together over a great meal. That is the power of food”

Overall, Mason Dixon Smokehouse is one of the best, if not the best, BBQ I have eaten in years. Nestor Laracuente has mastered the art of smoking, yet constantly looks to improve his recipes and his technique that already create flawless meats. Each and every bite brought a smile to my face, and I highly recommend grabbing a table, a large appetite and make sure you have a handful of napkins to wipe the sauce from your smiles.

78 West Park Place – Stamford, CT 203-817-0392

http://www.masondixonstamford.com

The author was not compensated for this review; the meal was provided without charge. The opinions contained herein are solely those of the author.

Fairfield County offers some of the best food in the country, from trucks to fine dining, and when a restaurant serves food from the soul, it is special, it is uplifting, it makes you overjoyed. Every now and then I visit a new place that fits all these categories. Stephanie Webster, my CTbites partner, and I were looking for a new place for a lunch meeting and we chose Soul Tasty…we wanted to see what the buzz was about. It is located on Main Street in Stamford at the end of a dead end that doubles as the entrance to a pedestrian bridge and parking is incredibly difficult, have patience, it is worth it.

Soul Tasty is the brain-child and dream of Chef Jean Gabriel, Jr. When you walk in, you can feel the love. The walls are brightly painted, a little graffiti on the rear counter pronouncing FEED YOUR SOUL and a colorful menu above the hot trays holding the products of the chef’s homage to the Southern recipes of his grandmother.

Jean’s desire to cook food from the soul is deep-rooted in this soft-spoken gentleman whose enormous smile and modest demeanor was evident as we discussed the restaurant on our visit. As a child, his mother taught him a few techniques in the kitchen and Gabriel decided to pursue his passion and followed his dream by attending the Lincoln Culinary Institute in Hartford, CT, and overseas at the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners. His menu combines traditional Haitian cuisine with his family’s recipes. Before opening Soul Tasty he was one of the opening chefs at Paloma.

Soul Tasty is already part of the community with prices that allow anyone to enjoy his food. A guest can enjoy a $5 “Tasty Box” lunch of chicken wings, pork chop, fried fish, or baked or fried chicken and a large portion of dirty rice, or for an extra $1 you can choose fried fish, pork or turkey BBQ, chicken tenders or a smothered pork chop. “Tasty Plates” are all $15 or less and include an entrée of BBQ, baked or fried chicken, chopped BBQ, BBQ or fried pork chop, fried fish or shrimp, with up to four sides. The sides include candied yams, potato salad, collard greens, mac & cheese, dirty rice, sweet potato fries, black eye peas, fried plantain and French fries. Two “$10 Specialty Entrees” include chicken & waffles and shrimp & grits.

We thoroughly enjoyed three dishes that are definitely in the “Must Order” category. My favorite was the Shrimp and Grits . A bowl of delicious grits was topped with well-seasoned shrimp, with a little sauce drizzled on top. The shrimp were firm, with a little spice and a lot of flavor. The grits were perfectly cooked, balanced between creamy and a little crunch. This is definitely a contender for Best of…

The Smothered Pork Chop was also outstanding. The chop sat atop an enormous mound of some of the best Dirty Rice I have tasted in a long time. It was moist and tender and the mushroom sauce was down home fantastic. The rice was filled with chunks of sautéed beef, carrots, onions and peppers and offered a nice level of heat.

The third was the Fried Chicken Wings. I commend Tasty Soul for serving the whole wing, all three sections. Pulling the wing apart is almost a ritual and first seeing the three-part crispy skin, perfectly fried, and hearing just a little crackle when the sections were slowly pulled apart was a prelude to the taste. They were crispy on the exterior and moist and delicious on the interior.

The pulled turkey BBQ sandwich was North Carolinian style, and consisted of a large mound of smoked turkey, lathered in a spicy vinegar sauce and served on two slices of white bread (menu states golden bun which I would have preferred). Steph was a big fan of the BBQ, I thought the meat was a little dry, but the sauce added all the moisture required to elevate this to a very good sandwich. A few people at the surrounding tables raved about this sandwich as their favorite on the menu.

We tried several hearty sides and I was surprised that my favorite was the collard greens; they offered just a little resistance, not mushy at all, and delivered a good level of spice to go with the inherent pungency of the greens. The black eyed peas were also excellent. They maintained a great texture and were served in a simple sauce. The last side we tried was the mac & cheese. The flavor was fantastic, Steph like the texture, I prefer mine a little creamier. Don’t forget to unwrapped some of the best cornbread, it was moist, flavorful and fantastic.

Desserts are rotated and we both really enjoyed the sweet potato pie, which was creamy and delightful.

In case you haven’t noticed I really loved Soul Tasty. Each of the dishes let the flavors of the ingredients play center stage, and each was delicious. Chef Jean Gabriel, Jr. dedicated the menu to his family’s heritage and recipes, created a cuisine hub in the neighborhood, offering delicious plates of reasonably priced food, in an environment that makes you smile when you enter and smile even broader while you eat. When I asked him if this was food from the heart, he smiled broadly and said, “it is food from the soul.”

29 Main Street – Stamford, CT 06902

203-504-2625

Soul Tasty CT

Really Liked

• Shrimp & Grits
• Smothered Pork Chop
• Chicken Wings
• Dirty Rice
• Collard Greens
• Black Eyed Peas
• Corn Bread

Liked

• Mac & cheese
• Sweet potato pie

While Crave Restaurant in Fairfield may seem off the beaten path, it is conveniently located adjacent to the Fairfield Theatre Company and combines a hip vibe with a menu offering a wide array of options from a simple Mac & Cheese to a robust Chicken Scarpariello. The brainchild of owners Peter Prizio and Alfonso Cammarota, the owners’ concept was simple; create a restaurant and bar where everyone would feel at home and serve a global menu with bold flavors. The restaurant consists of two rooms. To the left is a traditional dining area with tables and high-tops and to the right is a bar, with large HDTVs and a U-shaped bar. Overseeing the kitchen is Executive Chef Rigo Lino; many will remember Chef Lino from the Mansion Clam House in Westport. His menu combines his Salvadoran heritage with the owners’ Italian roots.

CTbites was invited to a media event where, over the course of the evening, I enjoyed many of the chef’s creations.

My favorite small plate was the “Eggplant Stacks,” a simple, old-fashioned style eggplant parmesan served in a cast iron skillet. Thinly sliced eggplant was breaded, fried, layered in the small skillet and topped with sauce and cheese and baked. The result was a mouthful of lusciousness. The cheese was perfectly melted and stringy and the sweet sauce was a delight with the moist eggplant slices.

Another simple and delicious small plate was the “Mac and Cheese.” Crave’s version used orecchiette shaped pasta and the three-cheese sauce was ultra-creamy with just a touch of bacon to add salty, smoky and texture,  and enveloped each piece of pasta. A simple topping of bacon bits was a fantastic addition to add a touch of saltiness and smokiness, and just the right amount of crunch. This is a great mac & cheese for adults and children.

The “Filet Tips” included chunks of filet mignon that were seared in a bit of olive oil, cut into chunks and served with a corn salad and red pepper remoulade. The beef was perfectly prepared to medium-rare and delivered a nice level of beefiness. The corn salad was a simple combination of sweet corn, peppers and onions and added a little crunch to the dish. The aioli was a fantastic addition and delivered a nice spicy kick.

The “Ahi Tuna” was covered with white and black sesame seeds, seared, sliced and fanned on a plate, accompanied by a ginger-soy sauce and wasabi cream. The tuna was very mild, almost missing completely. When the sauces were included, the total bundle was very nice. The ginger-soy was an excellent complement.

Two of the small plates were not to my liking. The first was the “Pork Belly.” Three pieces of braised belly sat atop a green salad, which was dressed in a citrus vinaigrette. The first piece was completely fat with no meat while the second did have a fair meat-fat ratio. Although described as seasoned with “16 spices,” the meat was very bland. When a bite was combined with the salad, it was a little better.

I did not like the “Clams Oreganata” at all. Each Littleneck clam was topped with a thick layer of bread crumbs, baked and then finished with a light brown sauce. The clams were overcooked and chewy, the breading was much too thick and extremely salty and the sauce did not work with the already harsh presentation.

The chef also prepared his “Rigatoni Bolognese.” The sauce combined pork and beef and was thinner than a traditional, thick Bolognese, more a meat sauce, complemented by delightfully sweet tomatoes; the meats added nice flavor and texture. The pasta was perfectly prepared to al dente and hefty enough to handle the sauce. A little sprinkle of freshly grated Parmesan cheese finished the dish.

The table moved to the Larger Plate section of the menu. The two themes throughout were the significant size and bold flavors.

My favorite was the “Chicken Scarpariello.” Several boneless chicken medallions were sautéed with sausage, sweet and spicy cherry peppers, mushrooms and potatoes and served with a white wine sauce. The sauce combined loads of flavors from the spicy sausage and cherry peppers to the soft creaminess of the potatoes. These ingredients were the perfect accompaniment to the moist chicken.

The “Portuguese Shrimp” was delicious. Five enormous shrimp surrounded a mound of rice pilaf and were accompanied by a few sautéed vegetables. The shrimp were cooked to maintain a firm, yet moist interior. The saffron-infused sauce instilled its traditional color and accents into the shrimp and the rice, which also contained sweet peas and a little heat from diced cherry peppers. The dish was finished with a sauce that included garlic and shallots to give a wonderful and full bodied sauce.

The “Grilled Delmonico Steak” was very good; a very, juicy rib eye. This large steak was served with roasted potatoes, topped with sweet and hot peppers, with a few roasted vegetables on the side. The steak was simply seasoned with salt and pepper and had a great crust from the charcoal grill. To complement this ultra-juicy cut, a wonderful medley of tastes from the sweet and spicy peppers presented significant contrast, with the creamy roasted potatoes adding a soft textural contrast

The “Salmon” was a little disappointing. A large filet was charcoal grilled and offered the same char as the steak, but was over-cooked, and a little dry. The fish was joined by roasted potatoes, vegetables, grilled asparagus, a smidgen of tropical salsa fresca and finished with a drizzle of Balsamic glaze. There were numerous flavors and textures, but they fought a little with each other and the fruit was lost under the char and the Balsamic glaze.

Overall, I really like the atmosphere at Crave; with its casual dining area and lots of TVs to watch the game. Whether you are looking for a pre-FTC dinner, a dinner with friends and family or looking for a sports bar with very good food, Crave can deliver on all of these requests.

52 Sanford St, Fairfield, CT 06824

(203) 292-8080

www.crave52.com

Really Liked

• Eggplant Stacks ($10)
• Mac & Cheese ($10)
• Chicken Scarpariello ($21)
• Portuguese Shrimp ($28)
• Grilled Delmonico Steak (Special for evening)

Liked

• Filet Tips ($15)
• Rigatoni Bolognese (Special for Evening)

Did Not Like

• Ahi Tuna ($16)
• Clams Oregenata ($12)
• Pork Belly
• Salmon ($26)

This was a media event. The author was not compensated for this review; the meal was provided without charge. The opinions contained herein are solely those of the author.

It has been several years since Chef Dan Kardos was creating his signature dishes in Fairfield County. He worked at many of the best restaurants and bars including Napa & Co., Bar Rosso, Harvest Supper, Le Farm and Local. His creativity and fearlessness in the kitchen was a hallmark of his cuisine. After several years working for Barteca in Atlanta, Virginia, DC and a year in a test kitchen, Kardos returned to his stomping grounds in Milford and with three other locals opened Liberty Rock Tavern last week in the building that formerly housed a neighborhood favorite King’s Court bar.

I asked one of Kardos’ partners, Brian Kearney, how Liberty Rock emerged from King’s Court. Kearney was a bartender at King’s Court for six years when the owner retired from the police force and was looking to sell the bar. Kearney and Kardos were joined by two other residents, purchased the business, gutted and re-invented the interior. The new space is hip, ready for neighbors to come in for a few beers, play a round or foosball, table shuffleboard or metal tip darts, throw some money in the new high-tech juke box, watch football games on one of seven TVs or listen to music and enjoy a night out with friends or family.

There is a long bar along the right wall and tables with forty-two metal backless seats in total. The size of the tables vary to seat couples, a foursome and several community-style tables. There is plenty of room between for conversation with friends who are wandering through the room. The walls are adorned with Revolutionary memorabilia. When I ask Kearney why he changed the name and its significance, he told me that there is a memorial up the street dedicated to Liberty Rock, the highest point in Milford and during the Revolutionary War, it was the watch-point overlooking the Housatonic River.

The group retained many of the traditions of King’s Court. Every Thursday evening, they still host a “steel tip dart league” and many of the beer labels remain from King’s Court. Prices range from $2 for a can of Genesee Cream Ale to $6 for a can of Six Points Resin. There are six beers on tap including Fat Tire, Green Flash West Coast IPA, SeaHag IPA, Victory DirtWolf Double IPA, Guinness, and Mam’s Little Yella Pils.

Kardos invited CTbites into his new bar and kitchen to sample some of his creative comfort food meets bar food.

We started with a little smoked trout spread, not normally considered bar food. Kardos started with a lightly smoke trout, adding a touch of horseradish, topped the dip with goldfish, fresh dill, and served it with Ritz crackers and a bag of Lays potato chips. Now we’re talking. The dip was delicious, it could be served at any restaurant in the area with a light smokiness, chunks of trout and creaminess. The crackers and chips made this a perfect partner for a beer.

Next was another item found at few, if any, bars, Burrata. This was no ordinary Burrata dish. It was full of textures from the addition of chunks of mulled apples, acorn squash, and tomato, plus bacon and pistachios. It contained an interesting twist; the apples were spiced with Cayenne pepper. I can’t remember the last time there was a spicy component in a Burrata dish and I really liked the adventurous addition to finish with a beer.

Liberty Rock is a bar, and I really wanted some traditional bar food. And two items on the menu immediately caught my eye; Southern Fried Chicken Sandwich and The Burger.

I started with the Chicken. And it does not get better than this sandwich. The thin cutlet was covered in a scant breading, served on white toast with a slice of melted American cheese, B&B pickles, pickled Jalapeno peppers, thick bacon slices, Ranch dressing and crinkled cottage fries. The flavors and balance were perfect, and again Kardos added a spicy component, not just with the Jalapeno peppers, but he added some ground peppers to the breading and the buttermilk that the chicken soaked in prior to frying. The Ranch dressing and B&B pickles were great additions to this unbelievable sandwich. This is a must order.

No visit to a bar is complete without a burger. And The Burger at Liberty Rock was delicious. The large patty was prepared to my requested medium-rare, was topped with melted cheese, a couple of slices of bacon, a swath of spicy mayo and served on griddled Texas Toast. The meat was rich in flavor and when paired with the spicy mayo, the sour pickle and the salty bacon offered a perfect balance. The thick Texas Toast handled all of the ingredients. This was a fantastic burger.

The opening menu is limited to eight items, with Kardos adding Shrimp and Grits this week and wings as the weather turns cooler. He is excited about the freedom of doing his thing in the kitchen, creating dishes that he wants to prepare. If a dish is not selling, he will take it off the menu. Kardos has proven that he has the talent to create incredible dishes, with his own place he will have the freedom to show this talent. If what I sampled is a pre-cursor to the food to come, Liberty Rock Tavern will absolutely rock.

229 Bridgeport ave Milford CT

The author was not compensated for this review; the dishes were provided without charge. The opinions contained herein are solely those of the author.

When one of the best, young, rising stars in the area stops you as you walk by his food truck and says, “I really want you to try this sandwich,” you take notice. And when that sandwich raises the bar for food being served from food trucks, it deserves special mention. The rising star is Chris Gonzales, the truck is HAPA, and the sandwich is the Ahi Burger. This is one of the best sandwiches I have eaten in quite some time.

The HAPA food truck has been one of my favorites since it opened. The tacos, the burger, the fries, the Brussels sprouts are all out of this world. I never imagined I would write these accolades about a “tuna burger.” HAPA’s combination starts with wild caught yellowfin, furikake crust, edamame, edamame puree, caramelized onions, lettuce, tomato and spicy mayo on HAPA’s Ube bun.

The tuna was outstanding with great flavor and seasoning, not overpowering. The caramelized onions were a fantastic and very unusual topping, it worked perfectly with the tuna, with sweetness and pungency. The lettuce and tomato and the edamame offered texture, juiciness and earthiness and the aioli added creaminess and a touch of spice. And then Gonzales’ sweet blue ube bun kicks in with more delicious sweetness. And let’s not forget to order a side of some of the best fries in the area.

This is one great sandwich.

The author was not compensated for this review; the sandwich was provided without charge. The opinions contained herein are solely those of the author.

My name is Jeff and I am a carnivore.

When I saw the announcement that Elm Restaurant in New Canaan was hosting four of the best chefs in Connecticut were gathering in the kitchen to serve a completely vegan menu I was curious. Elm’s chef Luke Venner arranged for chefs Mazen Mustafa, formerly of The Elm restaurant in Brooklyn, Marcell Davidson, from Community Table in Washington, CT, and Tyler Anderson, from Millwright’s in Simsbury. Would these four chefs create a meal this self-professed carnivore would enjoy? The answer is YES.

Mazen Mustafa trained in NYC at several Michelin starred restaurants including Corton, Momofuku Ko, and Restaurant Bouley. Marcell Davidsen brings a unique and artistic approach to his cuisine, celebrating local and natural ingredients, many found as he forages for herbs, flowers, and greens. Tyler Anderson worked with Chicago chefs Charlie Trotter, Sarah Stegner, and George Bumbaris and is a two-time James Beard nominated restaurant Millwright’s in Simsbury, CT. He respects and supports Connecticut’s farmers and artisan food producers.

When I arrived at Elm every table was occupied and the kitchen was abuzz with activity. I wandered to the rear to say hello to Elm’s chef Luke Venner and meet the other three chefs. Mustafa, Davidsen and Venner were busy finishing plates. Venner informed me that Anderson was, unfortunately, delayed out of town due to Hurricane Matthew.

While we looked at the menu I ordered the “avocado, indian corn tostada…” The avocado was serve guacamole–style and was rich, creamy and delicious. The tostadas were similar to poofy pita rounds, but darker. A little combination of the two; delightful, the avocado was great with the almost wheat-like tostada. It was one of our two favorites of the evening. The other was the “buffalo chicken of the woods, blue cheese.” Large sections of hen of woods mushrooms were seared and topped with a Buffalo wing sauce and topped with micro greens and dollops of vegan blue cheese. The mushrooms were dense and were a great complement to the slightly spicy sauce and the creamy blue cheese.

Two of the other smaller plates we enjoyed were the “tomato tartare, ras el hanout, charred bread” and the “pineapple steak, cilantro, peanut, szechuan peppercorn.” The tomato was served as a disk, exploding with the spiced diversity of the ras el hanout seasoning. The pineapple steak was petit and incredibly sweet with a great balance from the cilantro and the peanuts and Szechuan pepper added crunch and spiciness. From the larger plate section, we ordered the “charred eggplant, ratatouille jus, black olive, thai basil” and the “crispy hen of the woods, farro boullion, pickled onion. The vertically sectioned eggplants were charred and delivered a combination of subtle and deep flavors, which were elevated by the jus and the Thai basil. The mushroom dish was an enormous head of hen of woods mushrooms, which delivered both a crispy exterior and moist interior. The farro boullion was a required addition to each bite to add depth.

For dessert we enjoyed both the chocolate cake with banana ice cream as well as the peanut butter and chocolate chip cookies served with a small glass of almond milk.

Overall I really enjoyed this introduction and total immersion into vegan cuisine. Each dish focused on the tremendous and natural beauty of a single ingredient, and then the chefs added both complementary flavors and textures. If I was able to prepare vegan cuisine anywhere close to these dishes, I would definitely place them on my dinner table as frequently as possible.

The author was not compensated for this review; the meal was provided without charge. The opinions contained herein are solely those of the author.

Many of us felt a sense of loss when Le Farm closed and Chef Arik Bensimon decided to pursue his other passion and create beautiful wood bowls. His brilliance in the kitchen, combining ingredients and textures as only great chefs can do, would be missed. Quietly and with no fanfare, Chef Arik has re-entered the Fairfield County food scene, at a small café in The Perfect Provenance in Greenwich, where his latest venture again proves his culinary talents in an environment dedicated to luxury and charity. When we spoke to him after the meal we asked him about this intimate space versus some of the larger restaurants he has worked in. He stated that he wanted this size, a place to serve the foods from his past.

The Perfect Provenance is the brainchild of Greenwich resident Lisa Lori, whose personal mission is to ensure every child can smile. All three of her sons were born with a rare condition, one of the prevented them from smiling. Numerous surgeries eventually corrected each and now Lori’s Three Little Bears project donates a percentage of the proceeds from T-shirts and bags to Operation Smile. These products are featured throughout the Perfect Provenance and have raised over $1 million to Operation Smile. The store is a perfect place for luxurious products and cuisine.

On a quiet afternoon, Stephanie Webster of CTbites and I stopped by with a sense of satisfaction that his talents would again be shared with others.

The small café includes a mere dozen seats, it is open for lunch from Tuesday to Saturday and dinner on Thursday and Friday evenings. The menu is very much a dedication to Bensimon’s French culinary heritage, reminiscent of a French bistro with a Tarte Flambé, a changing Tartare, Moules, Quiche Du Jour and a Dijon Roast Chicken. Daily specials are also offered. We ordered a couple of items from Les Entrées & Salades and from Les Sandwiches.

The Lamb Taco included two large grilled tortillas filled with the lamb and lettuce and served with a sauce of avocado and tomatillo. The lamb was firm in texture, similar to pastrami, from its confit preparation. It was rich and when combined with the bright sauce created an excellent balance.

We also ordered the “Tartare du Jour” which was salmon on the day of our visit. The tartare was served on a grilled slice of bread and contained tremendous flavor. The diced salmon was joined with dill, capers and also just a hint of spiciness. It was refreshing and outstanding.

We also enjoyed the Griddled Octopus, which was accompanied on the plate by chorizo and smashed potatoes. The presentation was finished with a dose of smoked paprika. The octopus was perfectly prepared and was al dente in texture and the smoked paprika was a flavorful addition to both the octopus and the potatoes.

The last large plate we shared was the Hamburger, served with house-made potato chips. The thick patty was served slathered in a Béarnaise sauce and encased in a toasted brioche. The grass-fed beef was rich, prepared to our requested medium-rare and was delicious. Then the burger was elevated to one of the best in the area with a heavenly and rich Béarnaise sauce plus the butteriness of the brioche. When we asked Chef Arik about the addition of the Béarnaise he told us that people place Béarnaise on steaks all the time, why not a burger?

To end the meal on a sweet note we ordered a slice of Marie Antoinette Lemon Coconut Cake. The slice was topped with crème and sprinkled with coconut and toasted coconut. It was sweet and slightly decadent with great flavor.

Overall, Chef Arik’s incredible talent is again on display and available for everyone to enjoy. His ability to master tastes, textures, and incredible combinations in perfectly prepared dishes makes him one of the best chefs in the area. People who have enjoyed his cuisine in the past should be thrilled about his return and those who have not should definitely go to The Perfect Provenance and enjoy the cuisine at Café 47.