Author Archives: jfoodeats

Ted’s Restaurant (Meriden) – So This is a Steamed Burger?

Posted on by
Reply

Iconic… best of… like none other…, you gotta go to. When it comes to the superlatives, Ted’s Restaurant in Meriden has received more than its fair share for its steamed hamburger. Yup, the burgers are steamed. After close to 1,000 Connecticut burger notches on my belt, I almost feel like apologizing for not previously trying this historical Connecticut landmark.

The steamed cheeseburger, also referred to as a “steamer” or “cheeseburg,” is believed to have been invented at a restaurant called “Jack’s Lunch” in Middletown, Connecticut, in the 1930s. Others dispute this claim, stating that the steamed burger’s origin is none other than Ted’s Restaurant in Meriden. Regardless of its origin, Ted’s has received too many awards to mention, and on a warm, summer afternoon, I decided to visit.

Ted Duberek opened this namesake restaurant sixty-five years ago in 1959, catering to the then significant local factory worker population. When Ted passed away in the early 1970s, his son Paul took control, and he made very subtle changes to the cheeseburger as well as modifying the steam box and trays that are still used to this day. In March of 2008, ownership passed to his nephew Bill Foreman.

Ted’s is the only known restaurant in the U.S. that exclusively sells steamed cheeseburgers. The classic preparation begins with fresh, never-frozen, twice-ground meat so the burger will hold its size through the cooking process. Unlike traditionally griddled, fried, smashed, seared, Q’d, Ted’s burgers are steamed in small trays in a stainless-steel steaming cabinet that can simultaneously hold up to 48 patties. Sitting next to the burger-steaming unit is a twin sister that is used to melt the cheddar cheese.  Once the burgers are completely steamed, the fat is drained, and the meat is scooped onto the large and poofy JJ Cassone Vienna roll atop each guest’s requested toppings. If cheese was ordered, the steamed melted cheese is finally placed on top of the patty and served in picnic plastic baskets. 

I wanted to get a full appreciation of Ted’s so I ordered a cheeseburger with bacon, fried onion strings and pickles.

The combo-burger arrived and my initial impression was the size. The construct was a bottom bun, then bacon, the patty, the gooey cheese, the onions and finally nestled into the top of the roll were three pickle slices. The burger was thick, more than an inch tall, but was diameter-challenged, it was not as wide as the roll, at least half an inch of roll jutted on all sides; the patty to bun ratio could be better. To adjust for my first bite, I trimmed the edges of the roll. Ted’s does not skimp on the cheese either, the steamed cheddar was more than generous, and the steaming caused the amazing dripping-ooziness once it was placed atop the burger. 

On to the taste test. The burgers are very dense from the steaming process. It was absolutely necessary to add salt, pepper and ketchup to achieve the full flavor I was looking for, since I like a more seasoned patty. The melted cheddar was very mild. The bacon was overly crisp, which others may prefer; my preference is for a little less crunch and a little more smoky-saltiness. The frazzled onions were delicious, they brought a nice crunch and a great oniony flavor, I would recommend this topping. All in all, I would have preferred more flavor from each of the components.

I also ordered a regular order of fries. The young lady was kind enough to let me know they were very hot, and she was right. I let them cool before a dip in the ketchup. While these are not cut on the premises, the cooking process was perfect, and I really liked the fries. While Ted’s offers several special fries, I would stay with the regular. 

Overall, my expectations were extremely high with all the accolades and awards. Ted’s has been around for over 60 years, the line got longer and longer as I ate my burger, and they earn award after award, so they have a tremendous following. I am glad I finally experienced Ted’s steamed cheeseburger.

Ted’s Restaurant

1046 Broad Street, 

Meriden, CT 06450

203.237.6660

https://www.tedsrestaurant.com

Spectacular Evening at North Fork Table & Inn (Southhold, NY)

Posted on by
Reply

Our recent visit to the North Fork Table and Inn in Southhold held no expectations as we drove and parked at this quaint, roadside building just east of downtown Southhold. It was a long weekend, we made last minute plans, were excited about the prospect of eating at a beautiful inn, but had no idea that the chefs’ pedogrees and talents would bring one of the most memorable meals in our lives. 

We were seated outside on the terrace, under the stars, it was a beautiful evening, mid 70s and there was a gentle breeze. After looking through the menu, we were torn on the direction we should take, and we were both very hungry. At first, we were concerned we may have overordered, little did we know what was in store for us. 

After a little research I saw that the Executive Chef, John Fraser, and the Pastry Chef, Sofia Schlieben, brought unbelievable resumes to the kitchen, French Laundry and Michelin-starred French locations. My expectations heightened. 

We started the evening with the Housemade Milk Bread, served with Cultured butter, and a touch of Amagansett sea salt. This was easily the best bread I have ever eaten. It was crisp on the exterior and the interior just teased you to eat more. Butter was not required for the creaminess to exude from every morsel, but just to tantalize more taste buds, a little dab of butter was brilliant. 

We started with two appetizers. 

As mushroom fanatics, we really wanted to try the entrée of Bucatini with foraged mushrooms, et al, and ordered the entrée-sized to share. While the menu mentioned the inclusion of roasted peppers, the kitchen decided to elevate the flavors by including tomatoes and lima beans, which both added incredible tastes and textures to complement the abundance of the small and flavorful mushrooms.

For a salad selection, we ordered the Two Mile Salad, with heirloom tomatoes, watermelon, grated Catapano summer clouds, and croutons. This was a great salad, both visually and taste-wise. The balance of the sweet watermelon chunks and the tomatoes and cheese were joined on the plate by more lima beans, which added great earthiness to the overall presentation. 

My wife ordered the Maine Lobster, served in a summer tomato broth topped with thinly sliced cucumbers. The lobster was perfectly prepared and then finished with a few seconds on the grill to add just a touch of texture. The tomato broth was delectable and served as the perfect complement to the lobster.

I opted for the Tuna, which was served in a nice rectangular log with two varieties of thinly sliced radishes and topped with a house-made salsa Verde. This was a perfect piece of tuna, not a single strand of sinew and it melted in your mouth. The salsa verde added just a touch of earthiness. The radishes made for incredible and complex tasting. It was genius in its simplicity.

You must save room for dessert, and we enjoyed two of the masterful creations. The first was the Grilled Peach Crisp Sundae, which included a large scoop of vanilla ice cream sitting atop Wickham’s peaches and pecan oat crumble. The ice cream was incredibly smooth, and the peaches and the best oat crumble I have ever tasted made this a great dessert.

Even above the deliciousness of the sundae was the Warm Chocolate Cake, which might be the best version of a molten cake I have ever eaten. Accompanying the rich chocolaty-ness of the cake was Rough Rider spiked, Amagansett sea salt caramel, and a dollop of vanilla bean cream. When you first cut into the cake, you can see the ultra-rich chocolatey decadence…you finished the meal with perfection.

Service was impeccable and the setting was relaxed, inviting and romantic.

This was a perfect evening under the stars and North Fork Table and Inn is a restaurant that should not be missed.

North Fork Table & Inn

57225 Main Rd,

Southold, NY 11971

(631) 765-0177

https://www.northforktableandinn.com

Gioia New Haven: Unforgettable Italian Dining and Culinary Excellence

Posted on by
Reply

I have grown especially fond of Gioia since its opening last year and my most recent visit confirmed the opinion that Chef Avi Szapiro is killing it with his food. In addition to the spectacular cuisine, Gioia offers a relaxed and incredibly vibrant environment, making for one of the best dining experiences in the New Haven area. 

Located on Wooster Street in New Haven’s bustling Italian neighborhood, Gioia offers an incredible alternative to the pizza nirvana of the street. Upon entering the dining area, you are greeted by soaring ceilings, banquettes, tables, a vibrant bar area, a chef’s table overlooking the kitchen and a private table in the back room, which also holds Gioia’s Market. A recently opened second level, rooftop has additional bar-type seating.

A major storm caused us to arrive much earlier than our reservation, and the hostesses were more than helpful in seating us when we arrived. We were given one of the side banquettes that can accommodate four people, so our threesome had more than enough room to appreciate all the cuisine.

While we relaxed and reviewed the menu, we enjoyed the bread service. The density of the bread was wonderful ,and the pieces slowly absorbed the olive oil that accompanied the slices. The bread was great on its own, and even better when used to finish the pomodoro sauce from the meatballs.

A must starter is the MEATBALLS, which includes three golf-ball size balls sitting in a Pomodoro sauce and topped with shaved Parmesan cheese. It was delicious. The meatballs were incredibly flavorful, and I used the extra bread to ensure I enjoyed every last drop of the spectacular pomodoro sauce. The shaved Parmesan was one of the best I have ever tasted.

For a more refreshing appetizer, I highly recommend the GIOIA SALAD, which includes a seasonal mix of greens, lightly tossed with lemon juice and oil and topped with the same Parmesan shards. This was a mound of delicious and sweet greens, perfectly crisped and lightly dressed with oil and lemon. The greens were some of the most delicious I have ever eaten and the parm was over the top perfect.

Another salad option is the FENNEL CITRUS SALAD, which is a full bowl of shaved fennel topped with orange and grapefruit pieces. The fennel was mild, avoiding the sometimes over-anise accented variety and the orange and grapefruit segments added great counterbalancing notes with the toasted fennel seeds contributing a little nuttiness and additional crunch. I really liked this salad as well.

For our entrees, we ordered three different dishes. 

The MAFALDINE CACCIATORE is Gioia’s interpretation of this classic Italian dish. It is served with farro pasta, chicken, mushroom, olives, sage and topped with Parmesan cheese shreds. My mistake was swapping the farro pasta for the straight rigatoni, since the farro nuttiness would have been better to complete the flavor profile. The braised chicken was delicious, and a touch of the braising liquid offered the sauce for the dish. To complete the Sunday-ness of the pasta, the mushrooms were a great addition. I really liked this dish. The next time I would follow the chef’s advice and stay with the recommended farro pasta. 

Others ordered the SALMON OVER GAZPACHO, a perfectly grilled piece of salmon atop a gazpacho. The gazpacho was bright and flavorful, incredibly sweet from the emulsified peppers. Another ordered the WHOLE BRANZINO WITH SALSA VERDE. This is the first time I have seen a whole fish served boneless, it was so easy to eat. The fish was stuffed with lemons, parsley and tarragon, all of which infused their incredible flavors into the fish. This entree is easily enough for two people to share.

Make sure you save room for dessert. I recommend the CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY SEMIFREDDO, which is served with crispy chocolate, and pistachio crumble. The semifreddo was delicious, chocolatey on the interior and surrounded by a thin layer of chocolate jutting from the plate. The accompanying crispy chocolate pieces and pistachio crumbles were both great. We were also given a CANNOLI WITH STRAWBERRIES AND GELATO. All I can say is Wow! The shell was superb, and the creamy filling was even better. Chopping the shell required some work, but it was well worth the effort, maybe the best shell ever. The filling was ultra-creamy and beyond delicious. Without a doubt the best cannoli anywhere.

Service was spot-on, friendly, informative and professional.

Overall, this was one of the best dining experiences I have enjoyed in a long time, and I look forward to returning for even more great meals.

Little Rendezvous: Authentic 130+ Year Old Coal-Fired-Oven Pizza in Meriden, CT

Posted on by
Reply

The year was 1888. The Civil War was twenty-three years in the past and the Model A was fifteen years in the future, the Statue of Liberty and Washington Monuments were recently dedicated, the US population stood at 50 million, the Standard Oil Company and AT&T were new companies, the Brooklyn Bridge was opened, and newly created Coca Cola was the talk of the south.

In the small town of Matteawan, NY, overlooking the Hudson River, Oven Number 312 was manufactured by the Dutchess Tool Company and sold to F Duhrkop of Meriden, CT. Until the late 1930s, the oven-baked bread at the Pratt Street location, and in 1938 the Verdolini family, forced to relocate its downtown business to Pratt Street, started baking pizza. In 1946, the business was sold to Tony Pascucci who changed the name to the Little Rendezvous. Over seventy-five years later, under the tutelage of its seventh owner, Steve Chehotsky, the Little Rendezvous is now producing one of the best, if not the best, pizza in CT, in one of the state’s longest, continuous-running coal ovens.

Little Rendezvous is still located on Pratt Street in Meriden, a very cute town southeast of Waterbury off Route 691. The small, white building is remarkably quaint, with two large 3 over 3 paned windows, a single center door a large sign above the door with “120 year old coal-fired brick oven” and a second sign “Brick Oven Pizza.” They are very proud of their heritage and the oven.

Little Rendezvous is probably the least heralded pizza restaurant in Connecticut, yet at times, the wait can be over three hours, yes, over three hours from order to delivery. The regulars, who have enjoyed these pies for decades, understand that if they do not follow the “Pro Tips,” they will miss the chance of grabbing one of the more than 100 pies created daily. 

I wanted to time my arrival before the lunch rush, and I felt comfortable when I arrived at 1145 with only two cars parked in front. My hopes were heightened when I entered and there were only two people in the dining room. Then I saw the first sign, “FUN FACT #32 AN EMPTY DINING ROOM DOES NOT MEAN WE ARE SLOW!!!” Now I was a little nervous. I approached the ordering counter and was greeted with, “Did you call ahead?” Oh no, did I screw up? When I asked how long, I was happily told that it would be a 35 to 40-minute wait, whew, not a big deal at all. I ordered a small half sausage, half pepperoni. Now to relax and wait.

Little Rendezvous has three rooms. The front area includes a long bench attached to the wall behind four 4-tops, with basic folding chairs facing the wall, a single round table that seats an additional three guests, and a shelf table with two chairs. The middle room is a connecting hallway (put in place to connect the two buildings in 1938) with shelves stocked with hundreds of pizza boxes. The back room is the epicenter. There is an ordering counter with one person manning the phones, taking face-to-face orders, slicing the pizza, bringing pizza to the dining area, and settling the bills. His ordering system consists of a spiral notebook divided into 15-minute increments. When an order is received, he places it in the outbound time slot. Upon my order at 1150, I was assigned the 1230 box. 

Behind the ordering counter is where the magic is made. Steve, the owner-pizzaiola-master, calmly creates one pie at a time. First, he stretches the dough very thin, then he carefully swirls two ladles of sauce, a few pinches of grated Parmesan cheese, and a couple of handfuls of shredded cheese. He carefully finishes the pie with layers of the requested toppings atop the shredded cheese and into the oven for 10-12 minutes. 

The oven is cavernous, at least 10-12 feet deep. On the floor in front of the oven is a pile of coal. The coal chamber sits to the right and when they opened it for me it was blazing hot with a mound of burning coal.

I waited in the dining area, and promptly as promised the pizza arrived. It looked great. I waited a few minutes to allow the pie to cool a bit. I decided to first try a sausage slice. I slowly slid one to check the bottom. With the edges charred, I thought I would see lots of black below. Nope, it was a consistent, dark beige. Now the lift. It held perfectly with a slight droop at the edge, and all the toppings stayed intact. Excellent construction.

My first bite was teeny-weeny out of respect for the roof of my mouth. Even with the tiniest of bites, I was impressed. Steve mentioned that he spends a lot of time with the sausage, and it showed. There was an enormous amount of flavor, not too spicy, just enough to take notice and the spiciness lingered after the bite. As the slice cooled and my bites became larger, I was more and more impressed. The balance definitely leaned towards sausage, if I were to divide, it would be 60% sausage, 15% sauce, 15% cheese, and 10% crust. As I have mentioned before, I am a chunk versus crumbled person, but I absolutely loved this slice.

With the sausage side in the record book, I moved to the pepperoni. The slices of pepperoni were 50% cupped, with just a dollop of oil in each, this is what I always look for, and this was the proper amount. My first bite was a full try since the pizza was now cooled. Wow, this was another great slice of pizza. The pepperoni was on the same spice profile as the sausage, just a nice level that kicked in and then trailed off. Different from the full coverage of sausage, the amount of pepperoni was more genteel, it allowed the cheese and sauce to participate more. The balance was perfect. The taste divide was 40% pepperoni, 25% cheese, 25% sauce and 10% crust. It was a slice of cheese pizza with pepperoni versus a slice of sausage pizza.

After enjoying my lunch, I spent a little time with Steve as he filled other orders. He started as a 15-year-old in the late 1980s and purchased the business about fifteen years ago. While he would not tell me the exact number of pies produced daily, he alluded to more than 100 and less than 200. The dough and sauce are made in-house, and he takes great pain in preparing the sausage. He was super friendly, and not only do you feel great about eating his great pizza, but he is the kind of friendly and customer-focused business owner that you want to give your hard-earned money to.

Overall, this is one of the best pizzas of my life. I do not want to get into the comparisons with other great pizzas in CT, we are all really lucky to have great options. Suffice it to say, Little Rendezvous definitely occupies one of my five fingers in the best of the best.

The Little Rendezvous

256 Pratt St.

Meriden, CT 06451

203.235.0110

Home

Terrain Cafe Burger (Westport) – Could Have Been Spectacular

Posted on by
Reply

It’s been several years since I ate at Terrain Cafe. When we finished some appointments in the Westport area, we were looking for a relaxing place to dine and Terrain seemed to fit the bill. Given its long-standing popularity, I was a little worried that the dining room would be fully committed when I sheepishly approached the hostess. Fortunately, they did have a table for two.

Terrain has upped its environment since my last visit numerous years ago. The foliage has filled in, and there is no view to the outside environs, it is completely self-contained within a beautiful garden-like atmosphere.

What I also remembered was the delicious bread in the flower pot. When our server brought it over, I was excited, but memories were better than the present. Something was different, first it was now room temperature, not the warmness of previous versions, the second and more disappointing was the flavor. While I remember buttery goodness, this loaf was pallid, not memorable at all. 

I also remember the burger was excellent and I was smitten when I saw, “terrain Burger…8 oz. grass-fed beef, Cabot Creamery white cheddar, sweet balsamic onion jam, brioche bun,” it was an easy decision for me. I was a little taken aback that only a salad was included and substituting fries was an additional $2, it’s a cheeseburger, and its companion is fries, not salad.

I ordered medium rare, and when it arrived, I was very impressed, a nice fat burger, with a good amount of melted cheese. Some nice-looking greens sat atop. I cut into the burger, not medium-rare at all, more medium to medium-well, too bad. The meat was loosely formed into the patty and when I cut the burger in half, one small piece fell onto the plate. I always try the meat first and when this morsel hit the tongue, I remembered why I thought it was great years ago. It was deep in flavor, and had to be grass-fed, from an excellent farm. The meat was top-tiered. Now for the whole shebang. The cheese was not strong enough to handle the rich flavors of the beef, and the onion jam was non-existent, but the lettuce and brioche added some nice flavor. What started as a 10 with the meat, quickly fell down the rating scale to an 8. The fries were just OK, but for an upcharge from the included salad, it was more an insult than an upgrade. They should be embarrassed. It actually drops my rating another number to a 7. 

The server was great and the environment was so relaxing I would return at a moment’s notice. I will definitely adjust my expectations from my visits years ago. The bread is not as good as in the past and given the quality of the meat, there was so much potential, the kitchen let the meat down, it was a 10 but the rest of the dish detracted much too much.

561 Post Rd E, Westport, CT 06880

(203) 226-2750

https://www.shopterrain.com/restaurants

Café Melba: Chef Dan Kardos’ Unforgettable Tastes and Relaxed Atmosphere

Posted on by
Reply

I’ve been following Chef Dan Kardos for over a decade, through his days in Stamford, New Canaan, SONO, and his march north up I-95. His latest venture, Café Melba, in Milford, is a testament to his always doing things his way. Anyone who knows Kardos understands his way is always his way. And I am glad he placed “his way” in the food at Café Melba. 

Assisting Kardos at Café Melba is his wonderful wife, Julie, who oversees the front of the house. On each of our visits, she was overwhelmingly pleasant, brought us to our table, offered water to our Service Dog, and offered her guidance on our choices. 

On our latest visit, with the temperatures in the 80s, we decided to take advantage of the patio. When we walked through the doors, we were shocked by its size. While other restaurants have a smattering of tables, Café Melba’s patio can accompany almost 70 guests, with 6-8 picnic benches, high tops and cocktail table seating.

A fair amount has been written recently about the Chicken Sandwich. I looked through my notes and it’s been seven and a half years since I first wrote about Dan’s chicken sandwich at Liberty Rock Tavern, and the current version is even better. More about that later since we were there for more than the chicken.

We started with two appetizers.

The Tuna tartare was large chunks of freshly cut tuna served atop two toasted slices of bread with a mildly spicy aioli, sesame seeds and baby micro-greens. The tuna was fresh and incredibly flavorful. And then the other elements kicked in. The aioli was the perfect complement to the tuna with a little kick and some creaminess to offset its spiciness. The dish was finished with a touch of spicy oil to add just a little more kick and flavor. The microgreens were a delightful addition. 

In addition, we ordered the Burrata Caprese. This dish also started with a couple of slices of grilled bread, which was the canvas for the burrata, peppers, prosciutto and arugula, and then topped with olive oil and balsamic glaze. The dish had several complementary elements that worked to create an incredible dish. The thinly sliced prosciutto was mildly salty to offset the creaminess of the burrata and the peppers added a wonderful, sweet component. The arugula and balsamic were a fantastic method to bring everything together. This was a great Caprese.

Then I moved on to the main event, the Chicken sandwich. It was as great as all the press has written. The chicken, itself, was a majorly think chicken breast perfectly deep fried for that great crunchy exterior and juicy interior. This was topped with melted American cheese, ranch dressing, bacon and pickles, all encased within two thick slices of toast. Nothing more today other than this combo absolutely nailed it. The chicken was beyond delicious and then the bacon and dressing kicked in with smoky, creamy, and pungent. The combo continued with the vinegary pickles. And not enough is said about the choice of bread, thick slices were perfectly toasted and fully capable of holding all the ingredients together for each mouth-watering bite. This was a super great sandwich.

Café Melba, under Dan and Julie Kardos, is an absolute must for anyone looking for some great food in an ultra-relaxed setting.

Cafe Melba 232 Melba St, Milford, CT 06460

Vincenzo’s Pizzeria in Waterbury: A Hidden Gem for Delicious Pizza and More

Posted on by
Reply

I’ve been looking for some great burger and pizza places in “the Valley,” and noticed a few references to a pizza place in Waterbury, Vincenzo’s Pizzeria. Looking at their website, I thought it would be like numerous other local Italian restaurants, where I could order a pie, maybe a Parm, sit at one of their tables, and enjoy a quiet lunch.

Fast forward to my visit. Vincenzo’s is located about a mile south of I-84’s Chase Parkway exit in Waterbury. As I left the Interstate, I drove through a neighborhood that reminded me of where I grew up, two-story houses, not a lot of commerce, and a sense of community. As my waze went under a quarter of a mile until I arrived at Vincenzo’s, things began to change slightly, I noticed several patio dining areas with white tablecloths jutting from white-painted two-storied restaurants named La Tavola and D’Amelios Italian Eatery, it reminded me of several great neighborhood Italian restaurants from my youth. 

I slowed as I approached one of Waterbury’s firehouses, looking for another white tableclothed restaurant. But there across the street, on the corner of Highland and Fairfield Avenues was a single-story, red-painted structure, with a couple of weather-worn signs. I had arrived at Vincenzo’s Pizzeria. Vincenzo’s also has a front patio, but at the time of my visit a few weeks before Memorial Day, there were no tablecloths, and it did not appear to be open. I looked for the parking area and saw a small lot behind the building that probably held six cars, one reserved for the delivery vehicle. 

I entered through the rear and found myself in a teeny-tiny ordering area, probably six feet by eight feet, with a couple of folding chairs, one blocking the door to the dining room with a hand-written sign that read “Dining Area open Friday and Saturday nights.” At the far end was an ordering counter that doubled as the window to the kitchen, and seated on a bridge chair on the other side of the plexiglass was a sweet, elderly lady, who wrote all the orders on a pad to hand to the kitchen staff. 

I ordered a small pizza, half sausage, and half pepperoni. She wrote “roni” and I smiled. I waited in my car for the suggested 15 minutes and returned as my pie was vacating the oven and into the traditional red & white box. It was now showtime.

When I opened the box, I was impressed, Vincenzo’s does not skimp on the amount of toppings, every millimeter was occupied by one of my two requested toppings. I first noticed the sausage, it was the crumbled variety, different from my preferred chunks, but better than slices. The ‘roni was slightly cupping, not a full-out cup-with-oil, but a medium cup and, yes, there was some oil in the cup. 

The edges look perfectly browned and when I checked the underside, it was likewise a beautiful darkish tan. I tasted the edge crust, and it was light, airy, and great flavor. The first lift of the sausage slice was, again, impressive. It held together with just a little tilt at the inner point. Now for the test and the bites. The first bite produced a slight crunch of the crust, and the sausage delivered light to medium spice, and the proportion of sausage to cheese to sauce was slightly leaning toward the sausage. This first bite was great. I waited for the cooling effect and then my normal Third Bite Test, it passed with flying colors. This was a really good slice of pie.

Now onto the ‘roni side. The slice was equally delicious, the pepperoni was slightly spicy at first and then the spiciness sorta lingered and intensified. This side also passed the Third Bite Test with flying colors. In fact, the proportions were slightly better than the sausage side, which allowed the sauce and cheese to play a more dominant role in the flavors.

Overall, Vincenso’s is a great off-the-beaten-path stop for a great pie and I will definitely return and try some of the other items on the menu. 

Vincenzo’s Pizzeria

752 Highland Ave

Waterbury, CT 06708

203-574-5300

203-574-5800

Home

Blackbird (New Canaan) – You Gotta Get There

Posted on by
Reply

It’s been a while since a new restaurant opened in New Canaan, so I was very excited when I heard that the much-anticipated Blackbird opened a few doors down from its sister restaurant Solé. After the first visit, the food was so spectacular, that I was quick to visit a second time a week late. Spoiler alert – It is already serving some of the best and most creative dishes in Fairfield County.

Blackbird is the newly opened addition of the Z Hospitality Group, which operates numerous, well-established restaurants in the area including Solé, Mediterraneo, Terra and East End. The narrow and long space is akin to the Solé layout, with tables in the front and a long bar and tables once you reach the mid-point. Unlike Solé, the kitchen is not open to full view, but is located behind doors in the rear. The front area serves guests on traditional tables while high-tops are stationed along the left wall in the rear half, which it shares with the long bar on the right. I was initially concerned about the potential for difficulty in hearing (a la Solé) but I was pleasantly surprised that the ambient noise in the front was friendly and the high-tops across from the bar were even better.

During our two visits, I enjoyed several of their newly designed, and expertly prepared dishes.

I ordered two different appetizers on my visits. The first was the Yellow Fin Tuna Noodles served atop tapenade and radish sprouts ($21). The first question…what are “tuna noodles.” If you think of long, square strands of sliced tuna, you’ve nailed it. The kitchen arranges several long strands sitting atop the pureed tapenade, another different interpretation. This Mediterranean-inspired puree delivered a completely different profile than the ever-present Asian tuna tartare that resides on 95% of the local menus. This was a totally different profile, earthy, bright, and rich all in one bite. I was impressed that the chef created a more creative use of the tuna and really liked the combination and it set the stage nicely for the other dishes. 

The other appetizer I ordered was the Amish Chicken Wings with a chili ginger glaze and served with peanuts and scallions ($12). This was a very unusual choice for me, but I am glad I did. The dish included three full wings (both the drums and flats) covered in sticky sauce and finished with peanuts and some sliced scallions. As I gingerly (no pun intended) bit into the first section I was really impressed, they exploded with flavor, not temperature. Thank you to the kitchen as the wings arrived at an edible temperature, not so hot as to incinerate my mouth with bite #1. The sauce had a delightful flavor, with just the right amount of spiciness (I give it a 4-5 on the spice meter) and a ton of Asian influence, and the crunchiness of the peanuts was a great addition. I thought the wings were fantastic.   

For my entrée choices, I went in two totally different directions.

On the first visit, I ordered the Wild Black Sea Bass with pea miso puree, asparagus, and morel mushrooms ($35). What can I say other than the fish, puree and asparagus were beyond spectacular? Blackbird offers a large filet sitting atop pencil-thin charred asparagus and both nestled in the pea puree. Sitting alongside these elements was a few morel mushrooms (one of my favorite varieties). A little dab of the puree and I knew this was going to be special, then a fork through the ultra-crispy skin and into the fish, expectations elevated more, and then the combo. Wow! The fish was perfectly prepared and with the puree, created an out-of-this-world combo. The asparagus added even more flavors. While I was extremely excited with the prospect of the morels, they were the one disappointment. Unfortunately, they absorbed a lot of the vinegar in the sauce, they lost all their earthy goodness. Overall, this was one of the best fish dishes I have eaten in quite some time.

If you have been following my decade of Fairfield County dining, you know I am a sucker for a good burger. When I saw Blackbird’s interpretation of the Double Bacon Smash® Burger on the menu, it was like magnets of opposite polarity, gotta get connected. The Blackbird Smash Burger includes onions, mushrooms, melted Gruyere cheese, baconaisse & pickled tomato ($25). All of my faves were encased in a sesame seed bun, Blackbird created an amazing new combination to this century-old burger tradition. Start with a couple of seared patties, and first take a few cues from French onion soup with the addition of soft, caramelized onions and melted Gruyere cheese. It was a great idea, but what about some mushrooms, yeah that should add some earthy qualities, but you also need some lettuce and tomato, not just a simple slice of tomato, Blackbird went to the left by adding a slice of pickled tomato. And if that was not enough, let’s throw some bacony mayo on the bun. It must have been as much fun to create as it was to eat. It was one of my favorite combinations in a long time, thank you.  Blackbird also added some fries on the side in the New Canaan-approved silver chalice. To say I liked the burger would be an understatement.

We also ordered a few desserts for the table to share. The big hit was the Japanese Donuts with lemon curd and strawberry sauce. Five golf-ball-sized orbs were accompanied by a small dish of lemon curd and strawberry sauce. Everyone can decide on the level and combination of flavors… the naked donuts were delicious and with each added topping, they became even better. The donuts were a great ending to the meal.

After only a short time, Blackbird has elevated itself to one of the best in New Canaan. The vibe was great, the acoustics allowed for table conversation, and the food was over the top delicious. So glad there is another great restaurant in New Canaan.

Some Great Eats @The Corner (Litchfield)

Posted on by
Reply

We finally made it to @The Corner in Litchfield. It is located at the eastern end of the town green at the corner (no surprise) of West St. and South St. just a couple of doors up from the post office. There are two rooms, one a dining room and the other a bar with several tables. At mid-day, it was about 30% full, with numerous locals having lunch. 

The lunch menu is mostly sandwiches, creative burgers, and a few salads. We were not sure what to order and we went for two of their basic offerings. 

I chose the GOCHUJANG CHICKEN ($16), which was crispy buttermilk fried chicken thigh, kimchee cucumbers, sweet & sour cabbage, gochujang honey & sesame aioli. The chicken was perfectly fried (I like the thigh much better than the breast) to a crispy exterior while maintaining a moist interior. Then I tasted the toppings. I absolutely loved the combination. Between the sweet, spicy, crunchy interplay it was not only a delicious sandwich but a great sandwich. The entire dish had such great complexity and just the right level of spiciness. While the roll could handle all the ingredients, I found it easier to enjoy with a knife and fork. I give the sandwich an 8. 

As a side, I had to order the ONION RINGS ($8), which were beer battered and served with corner sauce. @The Corner does not skimp on this side dish, not a mere 4-5 rings, but closer to a baker’s dozen, and we were glad they gave us such a nice-sized portion. These rings were delicious, from the sweetness and soft interior to the perfectly crispy exterior. The corner sauce was a great complement with just a hint of spice. Best onion rings in quite some time, I give them a 9.

My wife was not in the mood for a burger or sandwich, so she decided to order a small plate of SMOKED SALMON LATKES ($17), which were crisp potato pancakes topped with chive creme fraiche, smoked salmon, crispy capers & beet pickled red onions. There are two methods to make potato latkes, one with a grater and one with a ricer, @The Table uses the latter, which makes for a much denser latke. Both of us found these much too dense. It would also have benefitted from more onion. While the flavor was pretty good, it was not to our liking, and I can only give a 2.

@The Corner is a great place to relax during the day in one of our favorite towns, Litchfield. My recommendation is to stick to the core of the menu, the burgers, sandwiches, and fries. The fried chicken and onion rings were both delicious, and I would highly recommend both.

Community Table (New Preston) – Magnificent Food in a Wonderful Locale

Posted on by
Reply

I’ve heard so much about Community Table (affectionately known at CT) in New Preston, CT, over the years that when my college roommate texted me and asked if we wanted to join him and his husband for dinner, I was ecstatic. 

The drive through the rolling hills of Washington Township, and through the tranquility of Litchfield county took about 40 minutes. The exterior of CT is very non-descript, a simple white building, with a minimalist “CT” sign, and the interior was a throwback colonial bar feeling with beams and lots of wood. We entered the bar area, where we were greeted by a wonderful woman, who took our jackets and escorted us to the back dining room, where under twenty guests would enjoy the magnificent cuisine. Our server arrived, gave us a warm welcome and we looked to begin our evening.

We started with the House-Made Six Grain Sourdough Bread and sea salted butter ($12). One bite and I knew this was going to be a special night. The bread had a wonderful, moist texture, full of flavor and the butter was salted perfectly. It was so special that on our subsequent visit, we bought a second loaf to go.

Throughout this dinner and our subsequent visit a week later, we enjoyed some spectacular cuisine.

My wife ordered the Local Portobello Mushroom Soup with pepitas and orange gremolata, with a drizzle of balsamic reduction ($17). The version presented by CT was one of, if not the best, mushroom soups anywhere. The umami of the mushrooms was fully evident, and the texture was smooth as silk, with an incredible earthiness. One would think that there was cream in the soup, but not a trace, only emulsified mushrooms to create the silky texture. This is easily a 10+.

I opted for a half order of the homemade Bucatini All’ Amatriciana, prepared with preserved San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, Aleppo pepper, and Pecorino Romano cheese ($24). Let’s begin with the pasta, prepared to perfection and the appetizer-sized option was good portion. It was topped with a rich tomato sauce, which benefited both from the quality and the preserved process, plus some chunks of the guanciale and smothered in the grated Pecorino. Given the All’ Amatriciana description, I was a little concerned about the spice level, but there was barely a kick in the sauce. Instead, it was spectacular in tomato lusciousness, and I was glad they offered a spoon, so I could enjoy every, last bite. This was also easily a 10+.

I am a huge fan of duck, so I decided to order the Five Spice Pekin Duck Breast, Cortland apple puree, radicchio, and red wine duck jus ($39). (Pictured above) Two large strips of rare duck breast sat atop the large portion of radicchio. The server poured the duck jus around the dish, and I found the puree hidden beneath the radicchio. The duck was tender, succulent, and rich in flavor, it was superbly prepared to the lighter side of medium rare. The key to this dish was the Cortland apple puree, it brought all the great duck flavors to the forefront. The jus was a great counterbalance to the apple sweetness. The radicchio added a certain tartness to the dish. It is easy to give this dish a 10+.

My wife ordered the Bincho Grilled Lemon Garlic Marinated Head-On Prawns, ancho chili, stone ground cheddar cheese grits, and scallions ($42). Four large prawns grilled on Bincho high-heat grill sat atop the grits and the kitchen was kind enough to separate the heads from the bodies. The prawns offered a very mild spiciness from the ancho chili rub, and the cheddar cheese grits were better than anything I ate while living in Georgia. This was another 10 dish.

It was such a great evening that my wife and I decided to return a week later. We again asked for the back room, looking for some quiet time. With four 2-tops lined along the wall, we understood the term community table. All eight of us engaged in interspersed conversation at times while we each focused on our individual dinner partner at other times. 

On the second visit, I started with the Black Sea Bass Crudo, with shaved fennel, grapefruit, and chives ($21). If you are looking for a refined dish to open your palate for the rest of the evening, this is an excellent option. A large portion of thinly sliced sea bass filled the plate and was topped with grapefruit segments and thinly sliced fennel circles. Droplets of spiced oil and a few strands of dill finished the dish. The combination of flavors and textures was refreshing, delicious, and completely satisfying. Like most of the dishes at CT, the guest can decide on various combinations from a single element to all of the components. I would rate this dish a 9-10.

On this second visit, I decided to order a slightly heavier entrée, the Berkshire House Smoked Pork Chop with celery root puree, charred broccolini, and a mole poblano ($44). Two concentric circles with the mole portion surrounding the celery root puree were flanked by a large, sliced pork chop on one side and the charred broccolini on the other. The first bite was the pork chop was very good but needed something to balance the flavor. the addition of the mole and puree was required to appreciate the vision of the chef. Each bite was smoky, creamy, spicy, and sweet. The charred broccolini added another sweet component, and was sweet and the ever-so-slight char added a nice depth. I give this dish a 9.

As I mentioned in other articles, there is sometimes a weak link, and for CT it was the Chocolate Tres Leche Cake with burnt local cream ($16). We ordered on both visits, not believing our palate on the first. The cake was dense, dry, and not very chocolatey (the opposite of our expectations with a tres leche cake) and the icing was a bland rendition. I was hoping for a delightfully light and moist ending, but it was not to my liking. I will not rank this cake.

Why we waited so long to venture to CT still shocks me, the food was remarkable, the service impeccable, and the management was over-the-top friendly and inviting on both of our visits. A great job by all.