Author Archives: jfoodeats

Roseland Apizza: Preserving Connecticut’s Pizza Legacy Since 1935

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I ordered a pizza, they delivered an apizza, and they called it ah-beetz.

Pizza lovers in Connecticut know exactly what the word apizza means, and they also know that one of the best (if not the best) versions in the entire state is found at Roseland Apizza in Derby. On a recent Saturday night, we joined some friends and made the pilgrimage to the neighborhood that has had the privilege of protecting this pizza icon. We sampled three distinct combinations, each with three distinct personalities and three different tastes, all sharing one undeniable theme: perfection.

Before diving into our visit, it’s worth appreciating Roseland’s roots. The story begins in 1935, when Giovanni “John” Scatolini, an Italian immigrant, opened a bakery and grocery store in neighboring Ansonia. He originally baked bread in a coal-fired oven in his backyard; a tradition he carried with him when he moved the business to Derby in 1938. World War II brought a family tragedy to the Scatolini family, when John’s son, Reno, was killed in the Battle of the Bulge in 1944.

The story of the pizzeria may have ended at this point if not for the intervention of John’s daughter, Lina Lucarelli. While only a teenager at the time, Lina used her unique entrepreneurial talents over the next seventy-plus years, lovingly guiding Roseland as its irreplaceable heart and soul. Born in Montebello, Italy, Lina emigrated to the U.S. at the age of seven to escape Mussolini’s Italy, and she eventually worked beside her husband, Nazzareno “Bocci” Lucarelli, at Roseland until his passing in 1980. When Lina passed in 2016, Roseland shared this touching and simple tribute, “She had the insight to turn a simple bakery into a beloved hometown pizza establishment at just the age of 15. Through five generations, our family has continued to push out pies and will continue to do so for generations to come.” To this day, Roseland is still family-run, a Derby institution and a proud pillar of Connecticut’s apizza heritage for nearly a century. An incredible story of dedication, perseverance and a matriarch like none other.

When we arrived around 4:45 p.m., the parking lot was already full, and even street parking was getting tight. Inside the unassuming front entrance, a whiteboard handled the seating process. Each group added their name and party size to the bottom of the list, and one by one, names were crossed off as smiling groups are escorted to their table. We added our name to the bottom of the list and settled in for the customary wait, in our case, about fifty minutes.

Roseland’s interior is classic and cozy, two rooms, a main dining area with booths and tables, plus a smaller side room to handle the larger groups. A giant chalkboard spans the back wall, listing daily specials, beer options, and, of course, Foxon Park sodas. Every other square inch of the walls is dedicated to the loving memories of the Lucarelli family, its extended family, and the friends who have enjoyed thousands of pizzas that have emerged from the 90+ year-old coal-fired ovens.

Once we slid into our booth, we were instantly transported back to a simpler time, when families spent Saturday evenings enjoying a relaxed meal at their local dining spots. We watched as friends greeted each other with hugs, and everyone seemed to know everyone else’s family news, it was the place where good conversation and great food took center stage. Our server brought over the essentials, the plastic-encased menus, napkins, silverware, and, in the tradition of Roseland, four mismatched melamine dinner plates, all part of the charm. The menu offerings were simple and classic Italian, one side of the menu included appetizers, grinders, salads, and pasta and parm dinners, while the other side was entirely dedicated to pizza. Interestingly, about three-quarters of the pizza section featured white pies (no sauce), loaded with seafood, chicken, or vegetables. The smaller top section listed the classic red pie, simple and straightforward.

We ordered two pies, a classic apizza with light garlic, and a half-and-half pie, cheese on one half, with sausage and pepperoni on the other. Naturally, we paired them with bottles of Foxon Park sodas.

When the server arrived carrying the metal pizza stands, the energy in our booth shifted, excitement building like kids on Christmas morning. First came the apizza, followed closely by the more heavily topped pie. The traditional apizza glistened, its sauce shimmering under the light, with just a dusting of cheese, luscious in its simplicity. The combo pie was a bolder display, one half bubbling with melted cheese, the other loaded with hearty toppings. At Roseland, generosity is standard.

Half of the apizza was immediately relocated to the individual plates, and from my first bite, my long-held belief was reaffirmed, Roseland belongs in the conversation for best in the state. Describing the taste is difficult, every bite burst with freshness, the sweet, rich tomato sauce beautifully balanced by the crisp yet tender crust. Then came that subtle hit of grated cheese that tied it all together. Pure heaven.

How would the combo-pie compare, same base, entirely different expectations? First, the cheese slice. The melted cheese added a creamy richness that transformed the flavor profile without overwhelming it. Again, perfection. Could the meat-laden slice compare? Chunks of sausage covered nearly every inch, with the thin pepperoni slices peeking out around the edges. The sausage was classic Italian, a medium spice, a smidgen of fennel and wonderfully hearty, while the pepperoni sneakily added just a touch of additional spiciness. The first bite also confirmed that Roseland’s pizzas were beyond fantastic, they were flawless compositions.

Overall, two pies, three flavors, one conclusion, Roseland Apizza is not only great pizza, it is also a significant part of Connecticut’s rich pizza history. It’s not flashy nor trendy, just pure, time-honored craftsmanship and a genuine sense of community. Every pie has been perfected over generations, reminding everyone why Connecticut’s pizza heritage is second to none.

One visit and you’ll also understand why Roseland’s fans keep coming back decade after decade.

350 Hawthorne Ave.

Derby, CT 06418

(203) 735-0494

Roseland Apizza: Pizza Restaurant in Derby, CT

Beyond New Haven: Discovering the Greek-Style Deliciousness of Zois Pizza in Seymour

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The Connecticut Pizza Trail recently unveiled its list of the top 100 pizzerias for us pizza-loving Nutmeggers. While I could easily name a few they overlooked, it’s no surprise that many of the revered New Haven legends made the cut, with the rest fanning out in a 180-degree sweep west, north, and east across the state. Some of the additional names were instantly familiar, others have now earned a spot on my ever-growing “must-try” list. As I worked through the county-by-county alphabetical lineup, my attention naturally drifted to my home turf, New Haven County. One recognizable name after another appeared, and then, near the end, there it was: Zois Pizza. Tucked just off Route 8’s Exit 18 in Seymour, this unassuming gem might fly under the radar for outsiders, but for locals, Zois has long been among the Valley’s best.

The year was 1970. Richard Nixon sat in the Oval Office, the first Earth Day was celebrated, Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix left the world their last notes of brilliance, the tragedy at Kent State shocked the nation, and OSHA was born. In the small town of Seymour, population 12,776, Zois Tzepos opened his namesake pizzeria amongst the U.S. Post Office, a movie house and a small train station. While most were focused on Wooster Street’s legendary apizza, Zois stayed true to his roots, crafting Greek-style pies made from a two-rise dough and baked to perfection in a pan.

Fast-forward 55 years, and the ovens now rest under the watchful eye of Zois’ son, Jim. A second-generation pizza maker, Jim is no stranger to the art of stretching, topping, and baking, skills he began honing as a teenager. By his own estimate, he’s crafted more than three million pizzas over the years. On any given day, other members of the Tzepos family can also be found pitching in, whether working the register, prepping ingredients, or tending the ovens. Jim’s wife and children keep the spirit of a true family operation alive as the third generation carries the Zois legacy forward.

After several visits, it’s safe to say I’m firmly a big fan.

At first glance, Zois’ pie looks deceptively simple, classic in appearance, yet with one subtle difference, the crust. Unlike New Haven apizza, where the lofty and airy crust shows spots of char from the high-temperature ovens, Zois’s version features a modest, thin rim that frames the center, its golden-brown color is barely dotted with hints of char. The layering of the sauce, cheese, and toppings looked perfectly balanced, and the aroma alone was enough to draw me in. A quick peek underneath revealed an even bake, a moderately tan underbelly with just a few char marks. It looked sturdy enough to lift a slice, including any toppings, without fear of collapse.

The real test began with the crust, with a flavor and texture very different from its New Haven cousins, yet instantly recognizable as true Greek-style. The first bite brought a satisfying crunch, followed by a touch of density and a mild flavor that would allow the toppings to take center stage. I ordered a few meat combinations, starting with my usual go-to, pepperoni and sausage, with the addition of a few ripened tomato slices. It’s always interesting to see which one claims the flavor spotlight, and at Zois, the sausage edged out the pepperoni. When it was delivered, I was impressed by the composition, baked until the cheese just started to brown, large tomato slices and a good amount of the requested meats. Both the sausage and the pepperoni were excellent, but the sausage outperformed the pepperoni. In fact, I would have preferred a little more participation from the latter, maybe with a touch more spiciness

Each pizzeria has a namesake combination, and after a bit of research, I discovered that many loyal fans highly recommend adding bacon, and who am I to dispute or dissuade myself from enjoying some bacon on a pizza? When I caught my first glimpse of Zois’s bacon-topped pie, I was intrigued. Instead of the usual crumbled bacon bits, they’d laid full, cooked slices on top of the cheese, a presentation I hadn’t seen in quite some time. One bite was all it took to win me over. The crisp rashers added crunch and a smoky, salty punch in every bite.

As many say in their assessment of pizza, how does a plain old slice stand up? And Zois does marvelously. With only crust-sauce-cheese, the pizza prepared by Zois was delicious, whether plain or with additional toppings, Zois’ is a major hit.

After fifty-five years, Zois Pizza remains a quiet testament to consistency, family, and pride in craft. From Zois Tzepos’s first pan pie in 1970 to Jim’s three millionth today, the Seymour landmark proves that tradition, family, and craftsmanship never go out of style. For anyone traveling the Connecticut Pizza Trail, this small-town spot deserves a well-earned stop. After all these years, Zois Pizza still delivers the kind of comfort that keeps me coming back.

48 Main St.

Seymour, CT 06483

(203) 888-1131

zoispizza.com

Bar Bête: A Cozy Cobble Hill Gem Serving Elevated Comfort and Creativity

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We decided to try Bar Bête, a highly recommended restaurant in the Cobble Hill section of Brooklyn for a dinner with the family.

When we walked into the restaurant, we were immediately greeted with a warm welcome from the host. Behind his stand to the left, a few tables stretched toward the large windows overlooking Smith Street, filling the space with a relaxing glow. To the right of the entrance was a small bar with a handful of seats, and just beyond it, more tables lined the back wall, extending to the rear of the dining area.

The interior struck a nice balance, traditional with just the right touch of modern chic, and the atmosphere was already filled with lively buzz that set the tone for what felt like a promising evening. We were seated at a window table, which offered a great view, though we could feel a slight chill creeping in as the season started to turn cooler.

After looking over the menu, the four of us decided the best way to enjoy the chef’s creations was to share both small and large plates so we could really experience what looked like a very creative offering. Definitely the right call.

The first dish to arrive was the Chicken Liver Parfait, which was served in a tall ramekin, the smooth chicken liver mousse filled one side, while the other held a generous scoop of the apple spread, both topped with chopped pistachios and a delicate gelee. Four large, toasted slices of bread towered alongside, ready for spreading. The mousse itself was outstanding, rich, velvety, and deeply flavorful, its intensity pleasantly dominating the sweeter and crunchier accompaniments. The bread was excellent, crispy and hearty enough to handle the richness of the mousse. Overall, this was an indulgent starter, best enjoyed when shared since soloing might be too much of a good thing.

We also ordered the Little Salad (photo above), tossed with mushrooms à la grecque, crispy shallots, and a mustard vinaigrette. Again, it’s a great dish for sharing, probably too much for one person. The greens were crisp and refreshing, and I loved the sweetness and crunch of the fried shallots. The mushrooms added a nice tangy note that balanced everything. The only thing I wasn’t totally enamored with was the vinaigrette, it was a little too spicy for me, it detracted from the freshness of the other components (the table was 50-50 on the spiciness comment). Others enjoyed this more than me, a little too peppery for my palate.

The first pasta dish that was served was the Ricotta Gnudi, topped with sprouting broccoli pesto, maitake mushrooms, and cracked spices. This was hands-down my favorite dish of the night and one I’ll remember. Eight golf ball-sized gnudi arrived nestled under a layer of bright green pesto and surrounded by tender mushrooms. The texture of the gnudi was spot on, a delicate outer layer that gave way to a luxuriously creamy center. The broccoli pesto was a revelation, vibrant, earthy, and the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the ricotta. Add the earthiness of the mushrooms, and every bite just worked. A beautifully balanced, perfectly composed dish from start to finish.

On a completely different flavor profile was the Spaghetti alla Chitarra, served with Portuguese sardines, chervil gremolata, and bottarga, one of my favorites. The spaghetti came piled high, thoroughly mixed with the sardines, then topped with loads of the chervil and plenty of bottarga.  Sardines are an acquired taste, I happen to love them, and this dish was clearly built to highlight their bold, umami character. After several bites I just wished the sardines took a small step back so the chervil and bottarga could have contributed more. I really liked the dish overall, but the sardines were so dominant that the chervil and bottarga barely had a chance to compete.

Last, but definitely not least, was the Wagyu Strip Steak, topped with eggplant dauphine, griddled scallion, and finished with a smoked beef fat vinaigrette. The steak was two deboned, thin, seared slices of steak, topped with a few crispy eggplant dauphines and then a few charred scallions scattered over it. It was absolutely delicious, the steak was cooked perfectly to a juicy medium-rare, bursting with flavor. When you combined a bite that included the beef, a bit of the eggplant and scallion together, it was incredible. I only wish this was a bigger portion, more the size of the spaghetti offering.

Service was spot on, our server was present when needed, responsive, thoughtful and was able to guide our table to the correct number of dishes to order.

Overall, our dinner at Bar Bête was a delicious dining experience that lived up to its reputation. Every dish showed real attention to flavor, texture, and presentation, with the ricotta gnudi and wagyu steak standing out as clear winners. The atmosphere was lively, yet comfortable, and the service struck that perfect balance of friendly and professional. Bar Bête is that neighborhood spot that feels both special and approachable, a place you put on your rotation for a special and relaxed evening of great food and conversation.

263 Smith St, Brooklyn, NY 11231

Rossano’s Pizza Lab (Delray Beach, FL) – Great Crust, Great Sauce… Too Much Cheese

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I’ve always believed the secrets to a truly great pizza are ingredients combined with a gentle balance. Each of the components needs to meld with the others, too much of one thing, and the whole pie could stumble.

After hearing a few positive comments about Rossano’s Pizza Lab on North Congress Ave. in Delray, I decided to give it a shot. It’s not the easiest place to find, it is hidden in one of the strip malls just north of Atlantic, the sign is subtle, and the pizzeria itself is tiny. Outside is a single picnic table and, when it’s not in use, Rossanos’ baby-blue pizza truck.

Inside, the ordering space is barely four feet by fifteen, with a narrow counter running along the right. Most of the space is dedicated to showcasing Sicilian pies ready for slice orders, and a small area at the end handles orders and payments. There are no tables or chairs, this was a take-out joint. Since I was interested in a Neapolitan style, and the only pre-made slices were Sicilian, I ordered a basic 12” cheese and waited outside at the picnic table.

When my pie was removed from the oven, it was piping hot, the crust had risen beautifully with just a little char in spots, and there was a generous amount of cheese. As I waited for it to cool, I sampled the crust. It was airy, flavorful and delicious. Next, the cheese was a good-quality whole-milk mozzarella. Finally, a bit of the sauce and it was bright, sweet, and lively. Positives on the three major ingredients.

But here’s where balance, or should I say imbalance, came into play. The toppings were too generous, lifting a slice with sauce and cheese intact was impossible. The first bite confirmed that there was way too much cheese. By the second slice, the crust had given up, the entire top (cheese and sauce) slid off, leaving me holding a bare wedge with a faint blush of sauce. I looked at the third slice, tried a bite, and ultimately surrendered.

I really wanted to like Rossano’s pizza more than I did. Individually, the crust, sauce, and cheese were excellent. But the execution was too much, too much, too much, and it distracted from the enjoyment. When I return, I’ll ask them to go light on the cheese, because with a little restraint, Rossano’s could be something special.

Rossano’s Pizza Lab

1445 N. Congress Ave.

Delray Beach, Florida

561-406-0101

https://rossanospizzas.com/

From Farm to Flawless: An Evening at Arethusa al tavolo (Bantam)

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Every so often you’re blessed with an evening that feels like a perfect dining experience, the atmosphere, service, food, and company all in flawless rhythm. Such was our last visit to Arethusa al tavolo in Bantam. The attention to detail, farm-fresh ingredients, and warm hospitality created a rare dining experience that I’ll treasure long after the evening ended. If you’re lucky enough to snag a table, please make the trip.

To fully appreciate the cuisine of Arethusa al tavolo, it is essential to understand the history of Arethus Farms. Purchased in 1868 by the Webster family and named after a pink swamp orchid, the farm supplied milk and cheese to the Litchfield community for over a century. In 1999, fashion icons George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgaitis, two senior executives at Manolo Blahnik, as well as neighbors of the farm, purchased the land to avoid it being developed and to preserve its natural beauty. Soon after, they introduced purebred Holstein cows, later adding Jerseys and Brown Swiss. Their herd quickly gained national acclaim, with two champions, Melanie and Veronica, winning top honors at the World Dairy Expo. In 2001, Arethusa began bottling milk under its own label, and today its award-winning herd numbers over 350.

Originally, the two envisioned a wine and cheese bar (inspired by Puglia, Italy), next to Arethusa’s ice cream and cheese shop in downtown Bantam. But, after hiring Dan Magill, a chef with CIA and Daniel Boulud experience, they realized they needed a full restaurant to match his skills, and the trio opened Arethusa al tavolo in June 2013. The restaurant relies exclusively on the farm’s own dairy and other premium ingredients, a commitment to quality that’s earned it numerous accolades, including being named the state’s best in 2018.

Magill is no stranger to the produce and vineyards of the northeast, having grown up on Long Island’s North Fork. Over the years, his talent has been recognized with a James Beard Award as “Best Chef Northeast” in 2016, and “Chef of the Year” by the Connecticut Restaurant Association. Commenting on his use of the products from Arethusa Farms, he mentioned, “you always take more pride in the product that you are working with, when it is your own.”

The restaurant is divided into three dining areas. To the left of the entrance, running the length of the wall, is the bar, which serves guests on a first-come basis. To the right lies a single dining room with a mix of banquettes and tables, while the outdoor patio offers al fresco dining when the weather cooperates.  When we entered, we were warmly greeted by the hostess, who escorted us to the table in the center of the main dining area. While I was initially concerned about the potential noise level, I was pleasantly surprised to find it was within an acceptable level.

We started the meal with two appetizers. I ordered the Yellowtail Tartare and my wife the Chilled Heirloom Tomato Soup.

If you haven’t tried Arethusa’s tartare, Magill’s version offers a bold twist on this classic. The plate is first adorned with slices of paper-thin radish and cucumber slices, before being topped with a long rectangle of cubed avocado supporting the main event, the silky yellowtail. This composition was finished with a spattering of tobiko and microgreens. Accompanying the tartare were house-made salt-and-vinegar chips, which added a briny crunch. Taken as a single bite, the dish bursts with creamy, sweet, salty, earthy, and fresh-fish flavors, elevated by the playful pop of tobiko. This was one of the freshest, most memorable tuna tartares I’ve tasted.

This is late summer in the Northeast, when sweet corn and tomatoes are at their ripest. Arethusa brought these two local ingredients together in a deceptively simple yet elegant tomato soup. The tomatoes were first emulsified into a velvety base and slightly thickened with the whipped ricotta, then a smattering of sweet corn kernels were added. The presentation was completed with tiny dollops of basil gelée and a sprinkle of microgreens. The result was a soup both deep and refreshingly bright, with its rich tomato sweetness highlighting the peak flavors of the season.

For her entrée, my wife ordered the Tahini glazed organic Scottish salmon served with tabbouleh, cucumber radish, seeds and Arethusa yogurt vinaigrette. The plate arrived with a large swath of tabbouleh down the center, with two large salmon filets leaning against it on either side. Sitting atop the filets were thin slices of radish, all finished with a dusting of microgreens. The first noticeable difference in this salmon was its sheen, the kitchen lacquered the filets with Tahini before presenting, which was a first for me. Let’s start with the Tabbouleh, the nutty, earthy bulgur paired perfectly with bursts of sweet tomato, while the fresh herbs added bright, lively notes. The salmon was impeccable, moist, rich, flavorful and was a great complement to the tabbouleh. This was one of the best salmon presentations I’ve ever tasted.

For my entrée, I chose the Nova Scotia halibut, gently poached in olive oil and set over sweet corn polenta, accompanied by tiny tomatoes, zucchini, chanterelles, seabeans, and bits of chorizo. The halibut was like none I have ever eaten. When I initially pulled a piece and, tasted it without the other items, I was in awe, moist, sweet, almost melting. The polenta celebrated the local corn harvest, its creamy base surrounded by a ring of basil oil.  Sitting atop the polenta was a mélange of sweet corn kernels, the diced chanterelles, tomatoes, chorizo and more microgreens. Each was delicious on its own, but together they created a bite that was rich yet fresh, creamy yet crisp—absolutely the best halibut I’ve ever tasted in my life.

Should we order dessert? On our previous visit we were amazed by Death by Chocolate. It was now absent from the menu, replaced by the Chocolate Panna Cotta. We asked the server if it would it reach the level of the other chocolate dessert? She slyly smiled and said, “it is better.” Strong words, and we were up for the challenge.

Pastry Chefs do not receive the acclaim they deserve, and with the desserts at Arethusa, this one deserves a call-out. Stacy D’Angelo, the Executive Pastry Chef, brings a lifetime of training and experience to the kitchen. A child of restaurant industry professionals, D’Angelo’s childhood dream was to become a pastry chef. After attending Kaynor Technical High School for Culinary Arts, she completed her formal training at Johnson and Wales University for Baking and Pastry Arts. Her skills were further refined at Mohegan Sun Resort before joining the Arethusa family, first at Arethusa a mano as a pastry cook, then Pastry Sous, and eventually to her current position of Executive Pastry Chef at Arethusa al tavolo.

And yes, we fell in love with the Chocolate Panna Cotta, its description on the menu continued with cherry morello cheesecake, hazelnut crunch, mocha sauce, chocolate ice cream, and pickled cherries. What was presented was not at all what we expected. The composition included a wide ribbon of chocolate on the bottom of the plate with three major additions, an unbelievable cheesecake with a hint of cherry, a light and flavorful panna cotta and a scoop of Arethusa’s own divine chocolate ice cream. A few dollops of whipped cream and all topped with crumbled hazelnuts and the cherries. This was a master class in decadence and a whole new level of indulgence.

Our evening at Arethusa al tavolo was flawless. Few places pull farm, chef, and servers into such perfect harmony, allowing every ingredient to shine with effortless style. Grab someone you love, some friends, anyone who appreciates a great culinary adventure. Each dish was brilliant, every bite delightful, and the whole experience you’ll be talking about long after the last bite.

828 Bantam Rd, Bantam, CT 06750

(860) 567-0043

arethusaaltavolo.com

121 Restaurant and Bar (North Salem, NY) – A Hidden Gem in Plain Sight

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Whether you are traveling north or south on Route 121 in North Salem, it would be a great idea to stop at 121 Restaurant and Bar. Located on the rural portion of this state road, a few miles south of its intersection with I-84, the restaurant is recognizable from its farmer’s porch and singular sign. Inside, you’ll find a mix of bar and table seating, and in good weather, enjoy a table on its wrap-around porch. 121 offers some really good food in a relaxed environment.

On a quiet Sunday afternoon, we chose an outside table with out of state friends. I decided to order the Fried Chicken Sandwich, described on the menu as crispy fried chicken thighs, Jalapeno cabbage slaw, shallot aioli, pickles, on a toasted brioche bun, served with Old Bay shoestring fries. Sounds like a winner, but I wasn’t sure how spicy the slaw would be with the addition of the jalapeño, so I asked that this be served on the side.

I am a big fan of fried chicken (who isn’t) and using the thighs makes it better, juicier, more flavorful and much less likely to be served dry as a result of overcooking badly prepared than the breast.

When it arrived, it looked great, the chicken was golden brown, with a few slices of pickles beneath, with the shallot aioli hidden under the top half of the brioche, a side of slaw sat next to the sandwich. The fries were served in the now-standard silver chalice. I first tasted the slaw to determine its spiciness, barely any hint, it was creamy and could definitely join the other ingredients between the bun.

The first bite was delicious, the chicken was moist, flavorful, crunchy, and the bread-coating had just a touch of seasoning. The pickles were fantastic, probably house-made with just a little sourer than a half & half, and the slaw added a delightful creaminess. I would be remiss if I did not mention a special callout for the brioche bun, it was one of the best I have enjoyed in a long time, it was buttery, light and sweet. I would give this sandwich a 10.

I wish I were as enamored with the fries. They were good but took a backseat to the sandwich. We also ordered a side of sweet potato fries. While the exterior was very crispy, the interior would have benefited from a little more time in the fryer.

Overall, 121 Restaurant and Bar was a delightful choice to meet our friends and exactly what I was hoping for. The fried chicken sandwich was outstanding, and on our next visit I would order one for the table to share. This is definitely on the A-list as an off-the-beaten-path stop for a relaxed meal.

Overall, 121 Restaurant and Bar was the perfect spot to meet friends and delivered exactly what I was hoping for. The fried chicken sandwich was the clear standout, the next time I’d order one just for the table to share. With its off-the-beaten-path vibe and cuisine, 121 earns a solid place on the A-list for a relaxed and memorable meal.

2 Dingle Ridge Rd, North Salem, NY 10560

 (914) 669-0121

121restaurant.com

The Evolution of Elm in New Canaan: Still Wowing Connecticut Palates

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Sometimes watching the evolution of a restaurant is as enjoyable as tasting its culinary creations. Even before Elm opened in 2012, I watched its opening chef painstakingly develop the initial menu, while the owners meticulously crafted their vision into the beautiful, warm and relaxing environment. The restaurant took an exciting turn in 2015 when Chef Luke Venner took control of the kitchen, and his current menu is widely regarded as one of the best in the state. My wife and I recently stopped in for an al fresco lunch. I was glad when I spotted Venner in the kitchen, it gave me a chance to say hello, catch up and hear his thoughts on his current offerings.

We grabbed an outdoor table under an umbrella, looked over the menu and ordered a few of our favorite things.

It’s become our ritual to order the Guacamole with cilantro and warm blue corn tostadas. When it arrived, I first noticed the new plating, with six air-puffed blue tostados sprouting vertically from the plate. Elm’s guacamole is one of my favorites, so creamy with earthy richness. The serving allowed for each large velvety forkful to counterbalance perfectly with the crunchy blue corn tostados. Each bite reminded me why this is a must-order introduction on each visit.

Sitting alongside the guacamole on the table was the newly introduced Burrata with glazed figs and basil. The kitchen split open an individual burrata, which allowed its creaminess to spread across the entire dish and then topped the cheese with the glazed halved figs and a sprinkling of basil leaves. This was the first time I ever tasted this combination, and certainly not the last. The natural sweetness of the figs was enhanced by the glaze, making it a perfect complement to the creaminess of the burrata, and the basil added a delicate reminder of fresh herbs. This was a great way to begin the meal.

We also enjoyed the Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with avocado, ponzu, crispy shallots & taro chips. Elm’s version takes this classic dish to an elevated level. The large-diced tuna sat atop a bed of creamy avocado, but Venner’s addition of the Ponzu added salty, sweet and sour components. Not to stop there, the addition of crisped shallots and sesame seeds added a deep and playful additions, while the taro chips completed the profile with their nutty crispiness. Elm’s version is one of my favorite renditions of this dish.

For my entrée I went full comfort zone with my traditional stand-by, the Double-double animal style. Elm offers guests the choice of “pink” or “no-pink,” and I wanted to test the “pink” doneness. Every time this burger arrives at the table I am in awe of its resemblance to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, its height approaches six inches. So many incredible elements to enjoy, two pink seared patties, pickles, tomatoes, shredded lettuce, onions, and special sauce, sharing the plate with an enormous helping of fries. While I would love to try to lift and bite, I knew better and grabbed the knife and fork. Each mouthful had so many flavors, so many textures, so much goodness. I still think this is one of the best burgers in CT. And let’s not forget the fries, also some of the best that CT has to offer.

If this was not enough, how about Venner’s decadent version of Mac & Cheese, topped with fresh truffle slices? It arrived at our table directly from the oven, bubbling hot, so take care not touching the serving bowl. We allowed the flavors to meld as the dish cooled and carefully scooped a forkful of pasta, held together by the cheesy gooeyness and a few chunks of bacon. It was delicious. Each bite was richer than the previous and when we added a slice of the truffle, it elevated the entire forkful with its deep, rich earthiness. This Mac & Cheese is a must-share portion, not only for its size, but everyone should enjoy this adult version of their childhood.

For the last thirteen years, Elm has been at the forefront of New Canaan’s culinary scene. Chef Luke Venner transforms fresh ingredients into creative combinations that challenge the senses. From the sweet-creamy figs-burrata to the down and dirty Double-Double, to the decadent Mac & Cheese, each dish was unmistakably distinctive, delicious, and a pure pleasure to enjoy. Elm continues to prove why it is one of the best restaurants in Connecticut.

73 Elm St, New Canaan, CT 06840

(203) 920-4994

https://www.elmrestaurant.com/

Fair Haven Oyster Co. Delivers Casual Charm & Serious Flavor

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Located overlooking the scenic Quinnipiac River in the northeast section of New Haven, Fair Haven Oyster Company offers a tranquil escape with a focus on fresh, locally inspired cuisine. On a beautiful summer evening, I was fortunate enough to snag an outdoor table right on the rail. With the river gently flowing beside us, two of us enjoyed a relaxing meal centered around fresh ingredients and thoughtfully prepared seafood.

Fair Haven Oyster Company is housed in a modest wooden structure that does not give justice to the dining experience. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a friendly hostess who escorted us to the back patio. Other seating options include reservable bar seats and tables along the barn-boarded interior walls that give the space a rustic, casual charm. Fortunately for us, we were headed out to the porch, which turned out to be the perfect setting for a relaxed and memorable summer evening.

The menu reflected the bounty of the season, with a strong emphasis on fish and seafood. Visiting in mid-July, it included a generous selection of fresh salads and seafood preparations, all highlighting the kitchen’s commitment to high-quality ingredients and simplicity.

We started the evening with two very different appetizers that we both wanted to try. It was the perfect way to sample a bit more of what the kitchen had to offer, and to set the tone for the meal ahead.

The first appetizer was the tomatoes and ricotta, served with grilled cucumber, torn basil, fried shallots and bottarga. Generously portioned, it was easily shareable between the two of us. The presentation began with a broad smear of creamy ricotta as the base, topped with four thick tomato slices, two red and two yellow, along with a handful of cherry tomatoes and the grilled cucumber. The cucumbers, which seemed to have been lightly pickled before grilling, added a tangy contrast, and the scattered fried shallots and shavings of bottarga brought texture and umami, while torn basil and a drizzle of olive oil finished the dish. The tomatoes were bright, refreshing, and full of flavor, though one slice was slightly overripe and lacked the firmness of the others. Still, the combination of textures and flavors worked beautifully. It was a strong start to the meal, a solid 8.

We also ordered the baby lettuces with fried oysters, green goddess dressing, pickled shallots, and bonito. This was also a generous portion, and we enjoyed sharing both the appetizers. A mix of red and green leaf lettuces formed the base, lightly dressed in just enough green goddess to enhance, without overwhelming. The pickled shallots and bonito flakes added a slight depth and complexity. The fried oysters, about half a dozen, were cooked perfectly, but the coating lacked any noticeable seasoning (on a subsequent visit the seasoning on the oysters was much better), which was the one shortcoming of the dish, and kept it from reaching its full potential. I’d give the first visit a 7, which increased to a 9 with the properly seasoned oysters.

For my entrée, I chose one of my favorite fishes, a bone-in skate wing (pictured above), pan-seared and served with capers, Meyer lemon, tomato preserves, and brown butter. The result was nothing short of spectacular. Although the server offered to debone it, I declined, part of the eating pleasure of eating skate is carefully removing the meat immediately prior to each bite. The piece was cooked to perfection, with the flesh remaining moist and rich, while the quick pan-sear added a delightful contrast in texture. Each element on the plate contributed beautifully, the Meyer lemon sauce was bright and zesty, the capers brought just the right hint of saltiness, and the sun-dried tomatos delivered a delightful, concentrated burst of flavor. Altogether, it was a flawlessly executed dish, an easy 10.

My wife ordered the grilled Dorade, served with Gigante beans, artichoke, and preserved lemon, another standout. The whole fish arrived marked with symmetric cross-hatched grill lines. After removing the head and tail, the first bite confirmed that the preparation was as great as the presentation. We were pleasantly surprised that the fish was deboned (this was a positive versus my desire to de-bone my Skate), and the first bite delivered a perfect balance of crispy skin and tender, moist flesh. The Dorade was nestled atop a smooth Gigante bean purée, with additional whole beans layered over the fish for added texture. To complete the presentation, the kitchen added a few deep-fried artichoke halves, which brought both visual appeal and a satisfying crunch. It was easily one of the best preparations of Dorade we’ve ever had, another easy 10.

Service was as good as the entrees, flawless, unobtrusive and present when required.

Fair Haven Oyster Company strikes a rare balance, an unfussy environment within friendly surroundings, a thoughtful menu, and a laid-back, yet attentive service. It is a wonderful way to spend an evening.

307 Front St, New Haven, CT 06513

(203) 745-5741

https://www.fairhavenoysterco.com/

BAR’s Take on New Haven Pizza

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Bar is located at 254 Crown Street in New Haven, CT, in an industrial building that proudly boasts its historical heritage with exposed brick, garage-style doors that open in warm weather, and vintage prints. As you walk through the different rooms and look at the food-beer offerings, you wonder whether Bar is a pizzeria that serves great pizza with a side of beer, or a microbrewery that drafts in-house microbrews with a side of New Haven pizza. For us, we were there for the pizza, and our single question was how it would compare to the other legendary New Haven pizzas.

Bar offers four rooms, each with a different atmosphere where guests can relax with a pizza, sample an array of house-brewed beers and specialty cocktails, enjoy the music, get serious with some pool on the antique pool table or have a whirl on the dance floor. The Front Room, to the left of the entrance, features a long bar with lots of stools, several tables and the antique pool table. The Lounge and the Back Room include communal picnic tables, standard seating and a large dance floor. The last option, and the one we chose, is situated immediately to the right of the entrance, the Brü Room, which includes a second large bar, towering beer tanks along one wall, with additional tanks overlooking the activity hovering above on the second-floor balcony. In the rear of the Brü Room is pizza central, a large open prep area and brick ovens turning out BAR’s signature oblong pies.

Founded in 1991 by Randy Hoder, Kenny Spitzbard and Stuart Press, Bar opened as a bar and dance club. Five years later, in 1996, the team decided to add food, and not just any food, they decided to go all-in by focusing on the most competitive product in the area, pizza. Within a square mile where some say is the best pizza in the country, how would Bar separate its pizza from the others? Let’s start with the crust. Bar’s crust is ultra-thin, approaching transparent; there is absolutely no rise at all. This was a risky play in a town where charred crusts are expected, and overbaking this thin a crust must be avoided at all costs; great care must be taken by the kitchen.

We grabbed our table and after looking at the menu we decided on a medium pizza, with sausage and pepperoni added to one half and just melted cheese and sauce on the other (I made a mental note to try the much-hyped mashed potato and bacon version next time).

The pizza arrived on a sheet pan, its size nearly filling the tray from edge to edge. There were several items that should be noted. First, the shape was neither the traditional circular nor a free-form structure, but prepared in a nearly symmetric oblong. The second item was its thickness, or lack of thickness, the crust was paper-thin, almost transparent and topped with an equally thin layer of sauce. The cheese was the third level of thinness, applied sparingly and nicely melted. The edges had a minor level of charring, much less than its nearby brethren, but still enough to qualify as New Haven. The pie was finished with a good amount of my requested toppings.

First, I needed to taste this paper-thin crust. I snapped off a piece, it was more cracker-like than a traditional, airy pizza crust. Then, I focused on the meats, and there was no surprise with the Lamberti sausage chunks, they are some of the best in the state, very flavorful, meaty with great fennel back notes. Next was a taste of the thinly sliced pepperoni, the spiciness landed slightly above medium, and given its modest neighbors, thin was probably the best way to balance its boldness.

Now for the real test, as I focused on a plain slice. My initial thought was that it would have benefited from another minute and maybe another turn in the oven, it sagged a little in the middle and the center was less crispy than the edges, I needed to flip it over onto itself to lift. The first bite was good, the sauce was terrific, bright, sweet and tangy and very well done, the cheese was too mild and definitely took a back seat to the sauce, and the extra-thin crust could have been more present. The plain slice was good, but not up to my high expectations.

The meat-laden half told a different story. It was no surprise that it also needed a center-flip to lift. It only required one bite to confirm that the addition of the sausage and pepperoni was a huge benefit. The saltiness, spiciness and fennel notes from the meats elevated each bite; the local Lamberti sausage was great, rich, and flavorful, and when combined in a single bite with the thin slices of pepperoni, the sweet sauce and minimal cheese, the slice came together and was very good. Again, it would have benefited from another minute in the oven to crisp the crust. I thought the meat-laden side came closer to my expectations.

Overall, BAR’s pizza delivered a solid experience. I arrived with high expectations due to its reputation and devoted following. While my pie didn’t quite send me over the top, it was undeniably good. Watching other tables devour pan after pan, each with different toppings, made it clear why BAR draws such a crowd.  It’s definitely a destination spot, the kind of place where beer, dancing, atmosphere, energy, and food come together. In a city where the pizza standards are sky-high, BAR does a good job.

Community Table – New Chef Bolivar Hilario Brings Sublime Elegance

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“Community table’s mission is to sustainably prepare the highest quality, locally grown, and procured ingredients to serve its community in a casual, vibrant atmosphere. Ct values its partnerships with local farms that bring the best produce of the season to create delicious recipes for their customer’s enjoyment each time they visit the restaurant.”

From Community table Website

Community table is housed in a nondescript, quaint structure on Route 202 in New Preston, and presents a dining experience that blends effortlessly into its rural setting. The only recognizable landmark to announce your arrival is a simplistic roadside sign with a singular orange “Ct” logo on a white background, reflecting the restaurant’s core value: a strong focus on community with an upper case “C” and a less formal, more shared dining experience at the table with a lower case “t”. A farmer’s porch extends across the front of the building, and a large parking lot is located to one side. The entrance is immediately to the left of a striking, vertically soaring, organic, red metal sculpture, leading guests directly into the bar area.

The hostess extends a warm greeting when you enter the bar, the most lively of the restaurant’s three dining areas. Choose this room or wander down the hallway to the right and into the second room, which provides both a communal atmosphere with its large table, or a few intimate, two-person tables. Continue to the third, and my personal favorite, secluded back room, which blends warmth and elegance, creating a relaxed atmosphere for conversation amongst the couples, as well as shared amongst friends.

Overseeing the kitchen since September 2023 is head chef Bolivar Hilario, who describes his culinary style as a fusion of his family’s Mexican heritage with French, Italian, Nordic and Japanese influences. He was raised in Florida, and once he found his passion for cooking, he travelled to New York and worked for Enrique Olvera, the world-renowned Mexican chef at Cosme, thereafter he broadened his skills at Aska, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant known for its Scandinavian-inspired cuisine, Chumley’s, the Michelin-starred Musket Room, and 69 Leonard and Shoji, where he was introduced to Japanese theories and techniques. He credits the experiences at 69 Leonard and Shoji as his epiphany to the Japanese centuries-honed principles of preparation and allowing the food to speak for the dish, a constant he currently incorporates into each of his creations at Ct.

The menu exposes the guests to flavors and textures to dazzle the palate, unveiling combinations designed to awaken the senses. Espousing the Farm to Table mantra, Halario has developed relationships with local growers like Renée Giroux at Earth’s Palate in Warren, The Oracle Mushroom Company in Kent and Crafted Brew Lab in Bantam and as well as others in the region. Wanting the guests to enjoy these bounties year-round, he not only prepares the fresh vegetables and herbs for the daily menu but also preserves and ferments many for his winter guests to enjoy.

I highly recommend starting the culinary adventure by ordering the house-made six-grain sourdough bread with herb butter. Hilario’s personal sourdough starter is the foundation of the bread, baked fresh several days per week. This is one of the most delicious breads anywhere, served with herb butter, and showcases a firm crust and a moist, opaque interior, delivering a richness that sets the stage for the remainder of your visit.

The current menu offers several delightful options, the first a Blue Corn flour tlayuda. This dish, akin to a flat, topped taco, features house-made, extra-thin tortillas layered with a savory salsa macha base, generously adorned with locally sourced Oracle mushrooms, a creamy caramelized cauliflower puree, delicate tiny purple onions, vibrant Earth’s Palate flowers (from Warren, CT), and a scattering of queso fresco. It was presented in four wedges, and the visual composition was matched only by its remarkable flavors. The first bite was an explosion of flavors and textures, beginning with the earthiness of a myriad of mushrooms and other vegetables and herbs, and finishes with a shot of spiciness.

For those interested in a bright and light entrée, choose the steamed squash blossoms, stuffed with shrimp mousseline, Guajillo pepper, squash, Earth’s Palate shiso, red pepper mole, and topped with wild forage tiger lily petals. While squash blossoms are normally filled with cheese and fried, Halario’s presentation softens the approach with a steamed version, stuffed with a mousseline of Gulf shrimp, cream, chives and a touch of one of his favorite herbs, tarragon. The dish was finished with a light sauce made from the shrimp shells to which he added some dashi from his Japanese training, plus chive and ramp oils. He described the dish as “local meets Japanese…with my heritage of Mexican cuisine.” The dish was fantastic, light, flavorful and full of aromatics from the oils and herbs.

Leave room for dessert because the new dessert chef is creating incredible final acts.

The first was a deconstructed “strawberry shortcake” which takes the three basic elements, sweet strawberries, tender almond gluten-free shortcake, and rich whipped cream, to a higher level with the addition of a scoop of strawberry ice cream, slightly spiked with a touch of vodka. The composition began with the cylindrical deliciousness of the shortbread, which was about as perfect as any I have tasted, then the chef surrounded this disk with a delightful and deliciously creamy whipped cream. The final element, the strawberries, which have been poached in lemon verbena to enhance the fruit’s natural sweetness were placed atop. The chef topped this creation with dehydrated strawberry flakes. The addition of the strawberry ice cream elevated this traditional dessert to a new level with additional flavors. The strawberry shortcake was brilliantly prepared.

The other highly recommended dessert is the flourless chocolate cake with house-made coffee ice cream and puffed quinoa. Where do I begin describing these three levels of perfection? The chocolate cake was over-the-top outstanding, moist, chocolatey, with richness oozing from every bite. This alone would have been completely satisfying, but Halario added a scoop of Ct’s house-made coffee ice cream that sat atop the cake. Then, for some textural fun, Halario added a sprinkling of puffed quinoa. The complete bite brought so many delicious sweets and crunch to the palate; it was perfect in every way.

Overall, Connecticut table is one of the best restaurants in the state. Devoid of any pretense, it harvests the natural flavors of the ingredients using century-old techniques with modern flair. The environment is relaxing to the senses, while the cuisine elevates each aspect of the ingredients in combinations that tantalize every part of the palate. Chef Halario’s journey to understand numerous cuisines is a complete success in every dish.

223 Litchfield Turnpike (Rt. 202)

New Preston CT 06777

860-868-9354

communitytablect.com