Harlan Publick in South Norwalk: Innovative Cuisine with a Tropical Twist

Posted on November 1, 2015 by jfoodeats

Harlan Publick opened last year in the SoNo Ironworks and immediately became a destination for great food, a vast line-up of beers and an outdoor terrace like none other in Fairfield County. The relaxed interior features a large bar, a dining area with both dining tables and high tops and a room for a private event that features several personalized beer taps, and represents the second for Managing Partner Steve Lewandowski, who is also the Managing Partner at Stamford’s Harlan Social, which has won accolades as one of the best restaurants in CT.

Executive Chef Kamal Rose recently joined Harlan Publick, and his road to this position was less than traditional. Raised on St. Vincent and the Grenadines, he developed his passion for cooking from his grandmother. He moved to New York at the age of 15 and subsequently received an internship at TriBeca Grill. In 2009 he won a $20,000 scholarship in a national cooking competition and earned his diploma from the Institute of Culinary Education. He returned to TriBeca Grill under the tutelage of Drew Nieporent and Steve Lewandowski and last year, Lewandowski asked Rose to join him at Harlan Publick where his newly introduced cuisine exemplifies his Caribbean roots tempered by classical training.

CTbites recently visited Harlan Publick to sample Chef Kamal’s newly introduced cuisine that deftly balances tropical flavors with a touch of heat. The menu allows guests to pre-order a Roast Porchetta for four, share several smaller dishes amongst friends, or order a traditional appetizer and entrée (these words are not on the menu). From Candied Peanuts to a Tomahawk Steak, the selections are wide and varied.

The “Braised Octopus Carpaccio” (pictured above) was like none I have ever eaten. Traditionally, this preparation includes “cooking” diced fish in a citrusy marinade and served with various accompaniments…Chef Kamal created a carpaccio terrine. He fanned several thin slices on the plate and finished with starfruit escabeche and drizzles of mango Jalapeño vin. The octopus was tender and delicious and the addition of the sweet mango and spiciness from the escabeche were delightful.

The “Black Bean Hummus” is an excellent starter to share at the table. It was topped with a dollop of Pico de Gallo and served with Plantain chips. Chef Kamal’s rendition broke from tradition by using black beans, which added a deeper earthiness to the dip. The sweetness of the plantains were a wonderful offset to the richness of the black beans and a touch of heat from the chilies.

The “Mussels” were served in a broth comprised of lemongrass, ginger, garlic, coconut milk and Thai chilies. The soft and sweet bivalves were perfectly enhanced by the tropical flavors, accented by a mild kick of spice from the Thai chilies. The dish was further complemented by a few slices of Roti, a flatbread that added crunch and an incredible sweetness from its raw brown sugar.

The most creative dish that Chef Kamal prepared was the “Crabcake ‘Scotch Egg’” served atop a swath of Scotch bonnet aioli. The traditional recipe includes a hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage, coated with bread crumbs and date to the 18^th century when farmers brought them to the fields for lunch. Chef Kamal first created his interpretation on “Beat Bobby Flay” where he encased a soft boiled egg in crab meat and bread crumbs, and deep-fried. When cut in half, the yolk exuded its creaminess to offset the incredible crunchy exterior. The crab meat was sweet and the Scotch bonnet aioli (I was nervous about Scotch bonnets) added a little, but not too much, spiciness. The small parsley salad was the prefect means to cleanse the palate. This was a fun, creative and outstanding dish.

The “Rum Glazed St. Louis Cut Ribs” were another example of Chef Kamal’s talent of infusing just a touch of heat into his cuisine. The thick ribs were first marinated in jerk seasoning and topped with brown sugar and rum before crisping the exterior on the grill. Once the crust was achieved they were steamed and coated with a sweet glaze immediately before arriving at the table. The result was a moist and tender rib with almost a spongy texture. The tower of plump ribs were presented in a cast iron skillet and were very good but I prefer my ribs a little denser with a firmer texture.

The “Curry Goat Roti” is a traditional dish in the Caribbean. The goat was prepared with potatoes, channa (chickpeas), allspice and ginger, and encased in Roti bread and griddled to create additional crispness to the exterior. It can best be described as a Caribbean pot pie. It was served with a tamarind chutney. As much as I liked the Roti bread and the braised goat, the dish was just not to my liking.

Short ribs are on every menu this fall and Harlan Publick’s rendition, “Short Rib Stew,” was fantastic. The 6-hour braised ribs were served with diced yucca, pumpkin and pigeon peas and presented in an individual caldron. The meat was perfectly prepared to a fall off the bone tenderness while maintaining a touch of resistance. It was moist and rich in flavor, while the pumpkin added a delightful sweetness to the dish. The sauce was one of the silkiest preparations I have eaten in quite some time.

The “Grilled Tomahawk Steak” was a sight to behold and a delicious piece of beef. This 38-ounce monster completely covered a two foot cedar plank. After presenting the whole steak to the guest it is returned to the kitchen for slicing. It was served with a side of jerk fingerling potatoes and a scallion butter. The steak was outstanding and when paired with a small amount of the scallion butter elevated its decadence. The jerk fingerling potatoes were creamy on the interior and ultra-crispy on the interior. It is usually shared by two people but understand that many singles have successfully devoured this extravaganza.

After the meal, a new, special drink was brought to the table. The “Old Pirate’s Portion” was served in a martini glass and included spiced rum, sweet potato purée, maple syrup, egg whites, and topped with a thin layer of whipped cream and a couple of sweet potato chips. The combination was fantastic with the sweet potato purée and maple syrup creating a sweetness balanced by the spiciness of the rum. The egg whites added a luscious quality to this drink.

Overall I was incredibly impressed with the Chef Kamal’s new cuisine at Harlan Publick. It breaks from the new American tradition that is rampant in Fairfield County and proves that savory and sweet are perfect complements while chilies can add a little spiciness to accentuate the food.

127 Washington St. – Norwalk, CT – 06854

(203) 831-0727

Really Liked

Braised Octopus Carpaccio
PEI Mussels 13
Black Bean Hummus 9
Crabcake “Scotch Egg”
Short Rib Stew
Grilled Tomahawk Steak 91

Liked

Rum Glazed St. Louis Cut Ribs 16
“Old Pirate’s Potion”

Did Not Like

Curry Goat Roti

New Chef @ elm Restaurant in New Canaan: Enter Chef Luke Venner

Posted on October 25, 2015 by jfoodeats

Chef Luke Venner has been at the helm of elm Restaurant for several monthsand was invited to participate at the Greenwich Wine and Food Festival as one of the Innovative Chefs. The two small bites that he prepared at the festival were delicious. In hopes that these were reflective of his newly revised menu, CTbites returned to the restaurant to sample other dishes on his recently introduced Autumn menu. The appetizers and entrées that we enjoyed highlighted the inherent flavors of the ingredients utilizing Chef Luke’s balanced vision and delicate touch.

We shared three dishes from the “smaller” section of the menu.

With the arrival of Fall, menus are featuring soups to showcase the season’s harvest. Chef Venner’s Pumpkin and Apple Soup was a sweet-spice combination mellowed by the pumpkin’s earthiness. These Autumnal flavors were a fantastic combination and the preparation included interesting back-notes from a smidgen of star anise. The spicy marshmallows were a playful inclusion for additional sweetness and a sudden burst of spiciness from the chili pepper.

The Tuscan Kale salad was served with thinly sliced honey crisp apples, intermingled with chunks of Cheddar cheese and bacon. This good-sized portion paired the mild bitterness of the shredded kale with the sweetness of apples. The presentation was further enriched by the Cheddar cheese and chunks of some of the best bacon I have eaten in some time.

The Delicata Squash Tartine started with a slice of toasted bread that was topped with ricotta, slices of roasted squash and sprinkled with spiced pecans. The squash rings were first caramelized to heighten their natural sweetness and were perfectly complemented by the wonderfully smooth ricotta. The pecans added more earthiness and a textural difference. This was a delicious start to the meal that I would describe as a more petit starter.

The entrées, “larger” plates, I sampled included two of the steaks and the risotto.

My favorite of the entrées was the Smoked Shortrib, which shared the plate with pureed carrots, slices of charred cucumber, and a dollop of chimichurri. The beef was first brined for two days, smoked and then pressed to remove all of the inherent fattiness of this cut. The filet was finished with a mild sear. The result was incredibly tender with a deep, rich flavor that required nothing more than a fork to cut. The charred cucumber slices added an interesting sweetness, the Sriracha enhanced carrot purée offered a touch of spiciness and the chimichurri complemented the other ingredients with sour notes.

Elm’s Wagyu Rib Eye is purchased from the 7X Ranch in Colorado. A little background of this ranch and its beef is important. While the requirement in the US for Wagyu designation is at least 25% from a Japanese Wagyu steer, 7X is 100% derived from Japanese Wagyu steer. The result is a softer, well marbled steak. The Wagyu rib eye was glazed with a Bordelaise sauce and served with a large marrow-filled bone. The meat was mild in flavor and presented more of a strip steak texture than rib eye…and was delicious. The portion was sufficient for two to share or for a single with a very hearty appetite.

There are numerous risottos offered throughout the area, most with a certain amount of heaviness. Elm’s current Risotto is delicate and pairs creamy Carnaroli rice with wild mushrooms, black truffle enhanced mascarpone and topped with thin slices of orange peel. The focus was the truffle infused mascarpone elevated by the brightness from the orange peel, a combination that I have never experienced, plus the mild earthiness from the mushrooms. It was outstanding and a much lighter version of this traditional Italian dish.

To accompany the entrées we also shared a side of Brussels sprouts. A bowl of baby sprouts was topped with honey and lavender that delivered a very sweet interpretation with a touch of floral notes. They were also excellent.

Pastry Chef Kara Koehmstedt recently joined elm to oversee its dessert and bread program. Chef Kara was trained at the Culinary Institute of America before joining the culinary team at The Peninsula Hotel and Blackbird Restaurant in Chicago and Cosme in NYC. She prepared four of her desserts from the current menu.

The highlight was the Zeppoles, which now rank as my favorite rendition in the area. The interior was moist from the Ricotta cheese and presented a wonderful texture to complement the crunchiness of the crust. Each was encased with cinnamon-sugar that offered the perfect balance to the zeppoles. They were paired with peach jam and maple ice cream and everyone at the table was craving a little chocolate sauce for their portion.

The Pumpkin Cheesecake delivered a rich creaminess reminiscent of NY-style cheese cake. There was additional smoothness from the formage blanc mousse, while the crumbles of specaloos (ginger biscuits) added a crunchy textural difference. As much as I loved the textures the pumpkin filling, the dish was a little heavy with nutmeg and the specaloos contained a little too much ginger.

The elm Brownie was several bite-sized pieces served with Crème fraiche ice cream and roasted blackberries. The highlight of the dish was the blackberries that were very sweet and delectable. The brownies were mild in flavor as was the ice cream and I prefer a more chocolatey brownie.

The Boozy Sundae is the newest addition to the dessert menu and included a large dish of soft brown sugar Bourbon ice cream topped with swirls of chocolate and caramel sauces and finished with pecans. The ice cream and sauces were excellent but the pecans were much too salty and overwhelmed the other ingredients.

Overall the appetizers and entrées were some of the most creative and delicious food I have eaten in Fairfield County. The subtleness of the combinations were fantastic. I look forward to returning to elm and taste many more of Chef Venner culinary compositions.

Prices range from $12 to $21 for the smaller plates and $21 to $36 for the larger plates (with the exceptions being the burger at $18 and the Wagyu ribeye at $62). I found most of the portion sizes in line with those at other high-end restaurants in Fairfield County.

Really Liked

Tuscan Kale ($19)
Pumpkin and Apple Soup ($12)
Smoked Shortrib ($34)
Carnaroli Risotto ($21)
Zeppole ($8)

Liked

Delicata Squash Tartine ($14)
Wagyu Rib Eye ($62)
Pumpkin Cheesecake ($8)

Needs Improvement

Boozy Sundae ($8)
Brownie ($8)

1020 Post (Darien) – Pretty Ordinary Burger

Posted on October 12, 2015 by jfoodeats

Almost every time the subject of where to eat in Darien arises, the name Ten Twenty Post is mentioned. Some have also recommended the burger and the last time I ate their House Burger was two years ago…it was time to give it a re-try. When I arrived around noon the twelve tables on the rear terrace were beginning to fill and without a cloud in the sky, all of the umbrellas were open and people were either looking for full sun or hiding in the shade.

The server informed me that the “House Burger on Soft Roll” was served with Gruyere cheese (the current website states Jarlsberg cheese), lettuce, tomato and onion, with a side of French fries. I asked if they could hold the lettuce, tomato and onion and add a couple of strips of bacon. I also asked that it be prepared medium-rare. As I sipped my water I found I was in a very small minority, almost everyone was drinking beer or wine. It was a festive mid-week lunch for many.

The burger arrived. The exterior of the patty had a good sear, the cheese was nicely melted but the two strips of bacon were just thrown on top as one…both on one side of the patty, not a lot of care in its placement. The bun, which was a basic, soft bakery bun, was nicely grilled. There was a good sized mound of fries and several slices of B&B pickles.

I cut the burger in half. My guess would place the weight in the 5 oz. range, and the size was more on the thin versus thick side. It was prepared a little beyond medium, much more than my requested medium rare. The grind was very compressed, and there was very little juice escaping. I first tasted the meat, it had a good level of beefiness, very good flavor. A taste of the bacon and Gruyere cheese gave me a different impression, both were on the bland side, and the bun was also not very flavorful. A bite of the combination gave a beefy flavor with the other ingredients adding little to the dish. There was just a hint of juiciness in my first taste but it became drier with each succeeding bite. By the time I started the second half, the burger was very dry. The fries were nicely cooked and seasoned and the B&B pickle slices were excellent. The cost of the burger was $17, which was high for its quality.

Overall it was a flavorful patty that was overcooked, causing it to dry out, with bland toppings. I previously rated the burger a “6” on my 1-10 scale, but given the blandness of all of the items (with the exception of the meat) I now rate the House Burger at Ten Twenty a “5”.

Bogey’s (Norwalk) – Just an OK Burger

Posted on October 5, 2015 by jfoodeats

I was driving by Bogey’s on Cross Street in Norwalk last week when I saw a new, large banner proclaiming “Voted Best Burger in Fairfield County.” When a restaurant proudly proclaims that distinction I am excited about the prospect of enjoying another quality product and hopefully add it to my growing list of great burgers.

After a little research, I discovered that this is not the first venture for the owners of Bogey’s, they also owned the same named restaurant in Westport. Earlier this year it relocated to its current location, again offering a wide array of pub fare, from sandwiches to chicken to steaks. The space in the new location is separated into two areas; to the right of the entrance is the dining area with tables and booths while the left side offers a four sided bar plus several tables.

There are two distinct burgers on the menu. The first is the “Angus Burger” ($11), which is simply 8-oz of Angus Beef, plus lettuce and tomato. For an additional $1 it can be prepared with cheese. The other burger is “The Prime Beef Burger” that includes 8-oz of Allen Brothers USDA Prime blend topped with Applewood smoked bacon, Blue cheese, and a fried egg (not mentioned on the menu but included on my burger were lettuce and tomato), served with French fries ($16). When the server approached I asked her which was the recipient of the award and she responded “they both were.”

I was a little confused by her response, but ordered the Prime Beef Burger medium-rare. It was both wide and tall; the patty sat atop slices of lettuce and tomato, with the bacon, cheese and egg layered on top of the patty. The fried egg was cooked perfectly, slightly crisped on the edges, the bacon and melted cheese were hidden beneath the egg with the edges of the bacon jutting slightly out from under the egg. I cut the burger in half, releasing the yolk and saw the patty was cooked exactly to my requested medium-rare, with an excellent char on the exterior. When I saw that the grind was very compressed I was a little disappointed; it appeared that it was pressed several times to achieve the exterior sear.

I really enjoyed my first taste of the meat, the flavor was excellent and delivered a great, deep richness. This might have led to a great combination and deserved the honor, but unfortunately this is where I diverge from the award. The bacon was well cooked but it was much too salty and the Blue Cheese overwhelmed the wonderful meat flavor. The egg added a delightful creaminess but also fought with the meat, and all were served on a non-descript bun, which added nothing to the overall composition. Each of the ingredients, by themselves, was very bold, but the combination was not complementary at all. In addition, after one bite, I removed the tomato as it was an over-ripe grocery store variety. The fries were good, they were crispy on the exterior and soft on the interior and served piping hot

Overall, Bogey’s definitely chose a fantastic meat for the Prime Beef Burger (I was told on a previous visit that the meat in the other burger was not the same blend) and with a better balance from the other ingredients, there is a possibility that I would agree that it is an excellent burger, but I enjoyed other options in Fairfield County much better.

Boothbay Lobster Company Truck Rolls into Stamford’s Harbor Point

Posted on October 1, 2015 by jfoodeats

Boothbay Lobster Company is opening its first bricks and mortar location at Harbor Point in Stamford in the upcoming months. To give the community a taste of what to expect from super-fresh Maine lobster, the company is periodically parking its Boothbay Lobster Company truck 100 yards down the street from the restaurant, serving two types of Lobster Rolls, a BLC sandwich, Lobster Mac & Cheese, plus a few non-lobster items. On a beautiful afternoon CTbites visited the truck to sample the newest addition to the Harbor Point neighborhood. As I approached the truck I noticed a sign stating that the lobster were caught the previous day…this was an ultra-fresh product.

The cooking and serving truck was joined by a second, which acted acting as the portable inventory for the visit. On its opening day the week before, they were so overwhelmed with customers that their anticipated 10-hour stay was shortened to under five hours when they ran out of product. On this second visit, they assured numerous people on line that they brought plenty of food for the full afternoon and evening. The menu offers two varieties of Lobster Rolls, each priced at $16. The first was a “Downeast” (recommended by the owner) that included chilled lobster and mayo and the second was a “Connecticut” (my choice) that offered warm lobster with butter. I did not order, but the truck also serves a BLC (bacon, lobster and cheese sandwich), Lobster Mac & Cheese and a Grilled Cheese sandwich, plus a side of Potato Tots and a Whoopie Pie dessert.

I first sampled the Connecticut. It contained large chunks of both claw and tail meat, lightly coated with salted butter and served on a griddled Martin potato long bun. The meat was perfectly cooked to maintain the lobster flavor and the texture was soft and not chewy at all. I was very impressed. I next moved to the Downeast. There was a scant amount of mayo, just enough to hold together the lobster meat. The owner was correct, the Downeast was fantastic. The major difference between the two was the Downeast delivered a hint of the ocean’s mild saltiness while the Connecticut’s saltiness was that of the butter. They were both served with cole slaw, which was basic shredded cabbage+ and Cape Cod potato chips.

Overall, Boothbay’s Lobster Rolls were delicious. I would recommend the Downeast over the Connecticut, preferring to taste the mild saltiness of the ocean versus the saltiness of the butter.

Check out their Facebook page for times and dates the truck will be on site.

Del Frisco’s Grille (Stamford) – Stick with the Meats

Posted on September 23, 2015 by jfoodeats

I was invited on behalf of CTbites to a lunch at Del Frisco’s Grille in Stamford, the pubbier version of the nationwide steak house, representing their twenty-second Grille opening and its first location in Connecticut. The main dining area is very open, with its soaring ceiling, reclaimed woods, large murals, and light fixtures with an industrial-hip, NYC vibe. Seating includes tables, banquettes, and a long bar, all with leather backed seats and bar stools. The large open kitchen is situated in the rear of the dining room.

Overseeing the kitchen is Executive Chef Enrique Reyes. Prior to this position, Reyes served as executive sous chef at Michael Jordan’s Steak House, chef de cuisine at Madison Beach Hotel and sous chef at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. Since the Stamford location is their “Grille” edition, the menu is different from its sister NYC steakhouse but does include several of Del Frisco’s signature steaks (available, but not advertised, on the lunch menu), plus traditional steakhouse salads, seafood and burgers. When I asked about the vision of Del Frisco’s Grille I was told that the cuisine would offer twists on traditional American cuisine with a focus on creating comfort food. During my visit I sampled three items that are prepared to share and two that would be ordered as an entrée, plus a dessert.

The three sharing plates were the Cheesesteak Eggrolls, the Ahi Tacos and the Spicy Pork Meatball Flatbread. My lunch companion told me the eggrolls were one of the biggest sellers, so I sampled this item first. The fried wrappers encased the beef and cheese combination, cut diagonally and served with two sauces, a sweet and spicy chili sauce and a honey mustard sauce. The beef and cheese was tasty but fought with the fried wrappers. The two sauces did not work with the beef and cheese and the entire dish, although flavorful, was not at all to my liking, more of a fun, novelty item to share on a first visit.

The Ahi Tacos were four small hard shelled tortillas that were half-filled with smashed avocado, topped with Tuna Tartare, and drizzled with Spicy Citrus Mayo. The avocado was bland, absent of any seasoning while the tuna offered some flavor, which was accented by the mayo. The shell made for ease of lifting but quickly split into pieces after one bite. The tuna and spicy mayo complemented each other, but when combined with the bland avocado and the hard shell it was not a dish that I enjoyed.

The flatbread was topped with a Roasted Tomato Sauce, halved Spicy Pork Meatball, chunks of Banana Peppers, dollops of Mozzarella, and house-made Ricotta. The flatbread was very over-baked and we struggled to cut the crust with our knives and the over baking also caused the meatballs and two cheese to lose all of their moisture. The pork was somewhat under-spiced while the small chunks of banana peppers were very good, but haphazardly placed on the flatbread. This was the third, and most disappointing, of the shared appetizers.

Fortunately, the next two dishes were much better.

The Grille Prime Cheeseburger included two beef patties, lettuce, tomato, red onion, pickle, and “Sloppy Sauce,” served on a brioche with a side of French fries. The two, thin patties were cooked to well-done, but maintained a good level of juiciness and delivered a deep level of flavor. The abundant cheese was perfectly melted and was a great pairing for the beef and the lettuce and tomatoes added a great freshness, while the paper-thin sliced red onion added a touch of pungency. The brioche added a sweet butteriness. The French fries were well prepared, crispy on the exterior and soft on the interior.

The Grass Fed Hanger Steak was sliced and fanned across the plate, topped with DFG Steak Sauce (Béarnaise-style), frites and a mini-squeeze container of ketchup (I did not like the idea it was placed on top of the steak). The steak was seasoned with salt and pepper and prepared to medium-rare. The flavor of the steak was rich and deep, but was slightly over-seasoned, and the sauce was a nice complement. The “frites” were a combination of French fries, sweet potato fries and chips; all three were very good.

The dessert menu was presented and since I have heard positive reviews about the Coconut Cream Pie, I decided to give it a try. It was excellent. The sweet crust was first filled with pudding, topped with a large mound of whipped cream and topped with shredded coconut. The filling was creamy and delightful and the coconut was a great addition. It was a nice way to end the meal.

Overall I was disappointed in all of the shared plates, they were gimmicky versus appealing. It was no surprise that the meats were rich and flavorful given the restaurant’s relationship to one of the premier steakhouses in NYC, and the coconut cream pie was delicious. The space was beautiful and invigorating but I would be careful in food choices.

Really Liked

Coconut Cream Pie
The Grille Prime Cheeseburger ($13.50)

Liked

Grass Fed Hanger Sliced Steak ($20)

Did Not Like

Cheesesteak Eggrolls ($11)
Ahi Tacos ($14)
Spicy Pork Meatball Flatbread ($13.50)

Sitting Duck Tavern (Stratford) – Pretty Good Burger

Posted on September 19, 2015 by jfoodeats

Travelling north on the Merritt on a Friday evening is never a pleasant experience, but given the recommendations from others about the burger at The Sitting Duck Tavern in Stratford, we waited through the traffic and delays and eventually arrived in downtown Stratford around 7PM. The exterior tables were was already completely full, did not want one upstairs, and we grabbed a booth on the right side overlooking the kitchen pass.

Our server was very prompt in the drink and food orders and was knowledgeable and pleasant throughout the meal. I ordered a bacon cheeseburger, medium-rare, with bacon and fronions with a side of French fries. There were two other burger orders from the group, the other two were ordered medium, plus we ordered a side of onion rings for the table.

When the burgers arrived the first thing I noticed was the size of the patty. Sitting Duck is very generous with the meat. I lifted the top bun and saw the two slices of bacon, the melted cheese, but barely any fronions. I was disappointed in the meagerness of the fronions. This all sat atop shredded lettuce and a thin slice of tomato. I cut the burger in half and it was more medium than medium-rare and one of my dinner companions was the medium-rare doneness while mine was the medium…just a little carelessness by the kitchen.

I tasted the meat and was impressed, it had a medium level of beefiness and very tasty. The bacon was well cooked and the cheese was nicely melted. Since I did not order the lettuce and tomato, I removed these two items and took a bite of the complete package, it was very good. The fries were very basic and the restaurant decided to use an off-brand ketchup, not Heinz, and it was surprisingly good.

The order of onion rings consisted of four, yes four, rings. Three were very small and one was large. It was almost embarrassing, four onion rings in an order for a table of four. The coating was very thick and the onion itself was mushy. Having my single ring was enough.

Overall, I liked the casualness of the Sitting Duck and the burger was pretty good. As I watched the food leave the kitchen my guess is 75% of the orders are burgers, which is a good sign. There is a banner on the front stating it is “A Hidden Gem,” but seeing the crowd and the number of burgers leaving the kitchen I am not sure it is hidden any longer.

Eli’s (Hamden) – Basic Fare in a Friendly Environment

Posted on September 15, 2015 by jfoodeats

Sometimes basic is good enough. And my lunch at Eli’s in Hamden was good solid basic fare in a friendly environment with an outstanding server.

The four of us decided to go to Eli’s for lunch after temple. It is conveniently located near Route 15 and there is ample parking across the street. We grabbed a table for four in the main dining area and Mike, our server approached. He was fantastic, patient and spot on throughout the lunch.

It was midday and the menu included an entire section on of my favorite meals, hamburgers. I chose the Bacon and Cheddar with regular fries, medium-rare. When it arrived the first noticeable feature was the size. In addition to a large patty, there was ample bacon jutting out of the sides, plus lettuce and tomato, all enclosed in an enormous bun. The meat was grilled to my requested medium-rare. My impressions were that the meat was mild in flavor, nothing special and good. The bacon was also grilled properly, crispy without being burnt. The cheddar was too mild to compete with the bacon and I would have preferred a larger amount to deliver more cheddar flavor. The bun was buttery, almost a brioche and it was very good, but a smaller size would have been more in proportion to the other ingredients. The fries were very good, crispy on the exterior, soft on the interior, and properly salted.

Overall Eli’s delivered a very good burger in a relaxed, family environment with a great server.

SE Uncorked (New Canaan) – Outstanding Vibes and Vittles

Posted on September 11, 2015 by jfoodeats

Chef Nick Martschenko’s (South End) newest venture, SE Uncorked, is already creating an incredible buzz throughout New Canaan for its great food and great vibe. Inspired by the speakeasies of the Prohibition era and taverns in the UK and Australia, Chef Nick told CTbites that his vision is for “guests to be comfortable and relaxed in a heavily beverage, comfortable environment with foods designed for a pub versus restaurant theme.”

Located at 15 Elm Street, both the exterior and interior have been completely redesigned. The brick-faced exterior features a drop-down wood shelf, windows at eye-level and a wood carved sign announcing “Uncorked” with the familiar South End circle-logo with the additional prelude… “Snacks & Taps.”

From the moment you walk through the rear wood-hewn door you understand the concept behind the mantra of Snacks and Taps. Guests enter a dining area like none in New Canaan. The entire right wall is filled with a single banquette, the center of the dining area has several wooden high top tables and the bar occupies the entire left wall with thick wooden shelves holding the libations for the guests. The front of the room has a long wooden bar shelf with a “pass-through” to hand guests dining outside their food and drinks.

The atmosphere is casual, laid back, kick up your feet, eat great food, watch the ball game on two separate TVs and have a few beers, a couple of glasses of wine and hang out with friends. The menu is geared to creative fare and filled with an array of bold and delicious options. Uncorked pours all the beverages from taps or individual bottles and cans with four beers, ten wines and two waters on tap, plus a wide selection of local breweries and national brand beers. Likewise all of the juices are made in house and mixers are poured from bottles and cans.

The menu is divided into smaller and larger selections and I sampled several of each.

Fish and sushi lovers should choose the Hamachi Nachos, a delightfully refreshing small plate of sweet and spicy. Freshly flash fried yucca chips were topped with large cubes of Hamachi that were marinated in grapefruit and orange juices, garlic and shallots. They were served with an orange section, cilantro oil and finished with a thin slice of Serrano chili and a sprig of micro cilantro. This cerviche on steroids delivered an amazing array of flavors and textures from the sweetness of the oranges and spiciness of the serrano chili to the soft and delicate fish to the crunchiness of the yucca.

For the adventurous, the house-made Merguez sausage sandwich was fantastic. It was served on a long Martin potato roll and accompanied with Tzatziki and swirls of harissa sauce. The sausage was wonderfully seasoned with a minimal level of spiciness. The creaminess of the sweet Tzatziki and the spiciness of the harissa were great fantastic together. Choose one of the beers for this sausage.

There are two very different carpaccios. Creating a complex dish from a few simple ingredient is the foundation of the Scallop Carpaccio. Thinly sliced scallops were marinated in lemon juice, Espelette pepper and red pepper and presented with dollops of pickled mustard seeds, slices of radishes, olive oil and thinly sliced serrano chilies. The scallops were sugar sweet with just a touch of citrus and a background of pepper. The pickled mustard seeds elevated the dish with great sour notes and for additional spiciness, pop one of the chili slices on the fork.

The Zucchini Carpaccio was presented in a fish scale pattern with a touch of grated Pecorino and drizzled with olive oil and salt. This refreshing dish accentuated the simplicity of the zucchini with just a hint of salt from the cheese. It would be a great accompaniment with a glass of brisk white wine to begin the meal.

The Fried Cheese Curds included bite sized pieces of Wisconsin cheddar cheeses that were lightly coated with a mixture of beer, cornmeal and flour and flash fried and paired with a Sriracha aioli. The mild cheddar was a perfect canvas for the spiciness of the Sriracha. Order the curds with a light beer for a great snack.

Uncorked’s rendition of Shishito Peppers began with quickly blistered peppers, which were joined with an aioli that contained a surprising ingredient, poached tuna. When the mild peppers (beware that about one in ten is very spicy with no advanced warning) were dipped in the aioli, the combined flavors were delicious and distinctive.

As a tribute to the bars of Australia, Uncorked also serves Oysters Kilpatrick. The roasted oysters were topped with Benton’s bacon and a house-made BBQ sauce. The combination was very bold from the bacon and sauce and I thought the sauce overpowered the oysters.

The entrées include a variety of options including meats, fish, and chicken, plus another great burger.

No less than three months after South End tied for my top burger in southwest CT, Chef Nick created the Double Double. The only similarity to the South End burger is it will be a serious contender for next year’s top spot. The patties were seasoned with Worcestershire sauce and slowly cooked onions, seared to medium-rare and joined on the toasted sesame seed bun with thinly slice zucchini pickles, melted American cheese and SE (South End) burger sauce. The Worcestershire sauce and onions added wonderful depth to the meat and the zucchini pickles were a lighter touch than traditional pickles. The burger was accompanied by some of the best fries in Fairfield County.

A dish that exploded with a combination of flavors is the Chicken. The chicken was marinated in a mixture of coconut, lemongrass and ginger, slow cooked and finished in a hot pan. It was served atop a bed of crispy olive oil potatoes and served over a large swath of leek purée and a drizzle of leek oil. The chicken offered a beautifully crisped skin and a moist and buttery texture, with tropical back-notes with potatoes that were incredibly crispy. A single forkful of all of the ingredients was outstanding.

For those looking for a steak dinner, Uncorked offers a Kobe Flat Iron Steak with a complex butter and au poivre wine sauce. The steak was perfectly prepared to medium-rare, sliced and accompanied by French fries and a small salad. The beef was rich in flavor and the sauce and butter added a wonderful lusciousness to the dish. The fries were fantastic and created a more pubby presentation to enjoy with a beer or a glass of red wine.

For a lighter entrée, Uncorked offers a Coriander Crusted Sliced Tuna over a Panzanella salad, which included pickled red onions, sliced heirloom tomatoes, plus fennel and basil from Uncorked’s garden. The rare slices delivered a Middle Eastern twist, while the salad offered robustness from the tomatoes balanced with the bright acidity of the Banyuls vinaigrette. The croutons made from house-made bread offered a wonderful textural contrast.

Save room for dessert because Uncorked is serving two incredible throwback desserts. The first was an interpretation of an Ice Box cake, but I would call it a dense chocolate pudding pie. A wonderful graham cracker crust was filled with the creamiest and most delicious chocolate pudding I have tasted in a long time and topped with vanilla gelato and swirls of chocolate sauce. This was a must-have dessert.

The other throwback dessert is a tribute to Chef Nick’s childhood when his grandparents would take him for spumoni. Scoops of vanilla and pistachio ice cream were topped with fudge, toasted almonds and Luxardo cherries, and finished with a dollop of whipped cream and a sprig of mint. It was full of great flavors from the sauces and the Luxardo cherries were a delightful addition.

Overall, Uncorked presents an atmosphere that is alive and the food is vibrant and delicious. Chef Nick and his team have done an outstanding job in creating another go-to spot in New Canaan.

Really Liked

Coconut infused chicken $24
Merguez sausage $18
Hamachi nachos $17
Scallop carpaccio $13
Uncorked double double cheeseburger $19
Ice box cake $8
Spumoni sundae $8

Liked

Zucchini carpaccio $10
Fried cheese curds $13
Shishito peppers $12
Yellowfin tuna $28
Kobe Hangar Steak

Not to my liking

Oysters Kilpatrick $21

Magee’s Curbside (Stamford) – Great BEC Empanadas

Posted on September 10, 2015 by jfoodeats

I was scheduled for a meeting in downtown Stamford and decided to leave a little early to see if the raves about Magee’s Curbside were justified. Easy answer…yes.

It is located on Magee Ave across the street from the car wash in a brightly colored building. There are several parking spots in front and to the left. The menu includes a wide range of choices from standard eggs, bacon, pancakes and sandwiches to a pulled pork combination. What caught my eye was the Bacon, Egg and Cheese Empanadas.

When they arrived I was very impressed. Two large golden-crusted empanadas sat atop cubed breakfast potatoes and were drizzled with a pink sauce. Experience told me the filling would been incendiary so I started with a couple of the potatoes. They were perfectly prepared, outstanding, a little crispiness encircling a soft and creamy interior. It was time to move to the empanada. Perfection. The crust was buttery and delicious and the creamy eggs bacon and cheese on the interior were perfect complements. I never thought I would think there was a better way than a bacon, egg and cheese on a roll, but this was much better.

What a great combination. I only wish it were closer to my home or office.

Jfood Eats

Eating and Enjoying

Author Archives: jfoodeats

New Chef @ elm Restaurant in New Canaan: Enter Chef Luke Venner

1020 Post (Darien) – Pretty Ordinary Burger

Bogey’s (Norwalk) – Just an OK Burger

Boothbay Lobster Company Truck Rolls into Stamford’s Harbor Point

Del Frisco’s Grille (Stamford) – Stick with the Meats

Sitting Duck Tavern (Stratford) – Pretty Good Burger

Eli’s (Hamden) – Basic Fare in a Friendly Environment

SE Uncorked (New Canaan) – Outstanding Vibes and Vittles

Magee’s Curbside (Stamford) – Great BEC Empanadas