Monthly Archives: March 2026

Where Comfort Meets Creativity: Dining at The Loop by Hachiroku

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Years ago, when I was commuting to Minneapolis, I heard about a fantastic Thai restaurant in St. Paul. A little research revealed that it was hidden in the back of a small grocery store, guests sat communally at wooden picnic tables, the menu was written in Thai on the wall, and not a single employee spoke English, but the research confirmed it had some of the best Thai food in the Twin Cities.

Knowing I would not be able to read the menu, I remembered a trick my older brother once taught me. When he lived in NYC, he frequented a well-known Chinese restaurant in Chinatown. After many visits, he wanted to order dishes that weren’t on the menu. He grabbed one of his high-end Chinese cookbooks, wrote the desired dish names in Chinese, and brought the list with him. The staff smiled affectionately when he handed them the list. They loved the opportunity to make something different, and the chefs were thrilled.

I tried this same strategy in St. Paul. I translated a few dishes into Thai, walked into the grocery store, and handed the lady behind the counter my list. Her genuine smile was a precursor to a great meal. The meal was spectacular. I sat at a communal picnic table in the back of a grocery store, eating some of the best Thai food of my life.

Fast forward to 2025. When I was asked if I wanted to try The Loop by Hachiroku in New Haven, I had two immediate thoughts and was thrilled. First, its connection to Hachiroku, considered by many to be in the Top 5 sushi restaurants in New Haven, and second, any restaurant sharing space with a grocery store wouldn’t have any hint of pretension. I was excited for some great Southeast Asian cuisine in a relaxed environment, and I was fully satisfied.

The Asian food culture revolves around sharing experiences, the culinary creations that are intimately composed, the cadence of the presentations, and the variation in flavors from delicate to bold. The four of us planned from the minute the menus were delivered that this meal would be numerous dishes in the middle of the table, individual plates in front of each of us would receive bites from each, and our chopsticks would be prepared for a workout.

Our server busily scribbled all our requested dishes, as her smile grew wider with each of our requests.

I am a proud member of the Carnivore of America club. I love meat. Yet the two dishes I enjoyed the most were both vegetarian: the Teriyaki Brussels (fried Brussels sprouts, glazed sauce, sesame, soy sauce, sake, mirin, sweet potato chips, and renkon chips) and the Yaki Kinoko (a mix of grilled mushrooms with garlic, soy sauce, butter, sake, and yuzu juice). I was almost embarrassed by how often I reached for another Brussels sprout. The flavors were over the top, bold and addictive, and the combination of sweet potato and lotus root chips created a perfect textural contrast. The mushrooms were a pleasure, and equally impressive; the earthy flavor blended seamlessly with a rich, assertive sauce. These two were excellent.

The other standout dish was the Salmon Confit, a slow-cooked filet of Faroe Island salmon with miso basil and ikura. The texture alone was amazing, soft, velvety, and juicy throughout. When we added a touch of miso basil for sweetness and the pop of salty ikura on top, it was a luxurious combination.

Two smaller plates were also delicious, the Kale Tofu Goma-ae (kale, beets, tofu, lotus root, sesame sauce) and the Yuzu Edamame (sautéed edamame with rayu, yuzu juice, salt, and sesame). The kale salad was unlike any I’ve eaten. The mound of kale was perfectly dressed, the pureed beets surprisingly toned down, and the crispy lotus root added a fantastic finishing crunch. And while most places serve edamame simply steamed with a sprinkle of salt, The Loop took this traditional shared starter in a completely different direction. They sautéed the pods with an added uncharacteristic spiciness and elevated a simple ingredient into something memorable.

Now onto the two other protein-focused dishes that I highly recommend. Both the Kamoni (slow-cooked duck breast with scallion, yuzu candy, and soy sauce) and the Chicken Nanban (fried chicken with tartar sauce, egg, mayo, pickled cucumbers, soy sauce, and rice vinegar) were delicious. The duck arrived simply sliced with charred scallions on top. The texture remained firm, and the scallions and sauce added a wonderful depth and complexity. The dark meat fried chicken was perfectly crisped on the exterior and was plated around a creamy, egg-salad-like mixture. The contrast of the crunchy hot chicken with the cool, smooth sauce was spot on.

I saved the fusion-inspired ramen noodle dishes for last. When we first saw that the menu included Cacio e Pepe Ramen (ramen noodles, Parmesan, black pepper, salt, soy sauce, and butter), we knew it would be included in the order. When our server mentioned one of the daily specials was a Ramen Bolognese, we decided to add that as well. While I loved the creativity, the Bolognese was a bit tangy for my taste, and the Cacio would have benefited from the inclusion of more sauce. They were good but sitting on the table with so many stellar dishes, these two, unfortunately, took a backseat.

You MUST save room for dessert, all made by Hen & Heifer in Guilford (a must-visit bakery). There were two options available on our visit: a slice of Pear Cake and a Pumpkin Panna Cotta. We ordered both. The pear cake was extraordinary, one of the moistest, most delicious cake slices I’ve ever eaten. The panna cotta offered a more autumn-ish flavor, and when combined with a few of the roasted pumpkin seeds, it created a delicious bite.

Overall, The Loop by Hachiroku delivered exactly the kind of experience that keeps me seeking out hidden gems. The kitchen created and delivered vibrant dishes meant to be shared, showcasing an impressive range of flavors, from humble vegetables elevated to star status to rich, perfectly prepared proteins. And then the desserts left that final, lasting impression. The Loop captured the subtle boldness of Southeast Asian cuisine, and it’s a place I look forward to returning to again and again.

367 Orange St.

New Haven, CT 06511

(203) 676-9572

https://www.theloopbyhachiroku.com/

How Ya Dough’n? in Boca, A Pandemic Pizza Dream Realized

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It’s always a great feeling to stumble upon really good pizza when you least expect it. And when you dig into the story behind the place, finding your passion, believing enough in yourself to take that leap of faith, and that dream is brought to life, it makes the entire experience even better.

How ya Dough’n? in Boca Raton is one of those finds.

While looking into my next stop in my ongoing search for standout pizza around Delray Beach, I wanted something outside the normal go-to spots. A bit of research led me to a place I’d never heard of. Several online reviews were glowing, yet it had never once come up in any of my Facebook pizza groups. Huh? That made me even more curious. Was this place legit?

How ya Dough’n? was launched during COVID by husband and wife and proud parents, Garrett and Gaby Goodman, after a friend suggested they try a Gozney pizza oven. Neither had any culinary experience. Both were working remotely and simply loved making pizza. What started as experimenting with sourdough starter and baking pies in their backyard for family quickly grew to include friends, then strangers, and eventually the “I gotta get out of my house syndrome” led to people reserving pies online, upwards of 100 per week. The backyard operation thrived until their HOA stepped in with a cease-and-desist order (which now hangs proudly in the shop).

So what to do? They embraced the moment, adopted the playful name How ya Dough’n?, and opened a storefront in Boca Raton’s Spanish River area.

The shop itself is modest, a small, almost hidden storefront in a strip mall at North Federal Highway and NE 42nd Street. When you walk in, the ordering counter is directly ahead, with the prep area and ovens behind it. To the right is a cooler stocked with sodas, water, and juices, and to the left, an even more modest seating area with two tables (seating six guests) plus six counter stools overlooking the kitchen. How ya Dough’n? still clearly focuses on takeout, continuing the tradition from their backyard days.

The ingredients are all high-end, low-acid New Jersey tomatoes for the sauce, locally sourced mozzarella delivered in whole blocks, soppressata from Chicago, and a custom-blend local sausage. Everything is made from scratch.

With that in mind, I ordered a 12-inch pie with half pepperoni and half sausage. The counter person told me a soda from the fridge was included in the price.

As I sat at my table, their dark blue How ya Dough’n? van pulled up. When the side door opened, I watched as hundreds of dough balls, resting neatly in plastic bins, were carefully unloaded and carried into the shop by the dozen. They were clearly expecting a large volume of orders that day.

When my pizza arrived, I was immediately impressed.

The first thing I noticed was the crust. I was airy, marked by large bubbles, promising a light bite. The width of the outer crust was wide, perhaps wider than I would have preferred, as it would reduce the area for the toppings. The pepperoni circles were plentiful, most had cupped in the oven and were holding little pools of oil. The sausage was almost hidden, tucked beneath the cheese. The mozzarella looked fresh and the sauce was evenly applied. A look at the underside showed more charring than expected.

I initially tore off a piece of crust. As anticipated, it was light and airy with a wonderful sourdough tang and a fantastic crisp. I was concerned that the charring might cause some bitterness. I hoped that would take a back seat in a full bite.

Next, I sampled the sausage. It delivered a solid kick, about a six out of ten on the spice scale, with a lingering afterglow on the palate. The pepperoni followed suit, it had a nice level of spiciness. I really liked both meats.

Time for the real test: a full slice.

I started with the sausage side. The crust was sturdy enough to hold the toppings with just a slight flop at the point. The first bite was excellent, and I nearly devoured the slice. The sauce was outstanding, the fresh mozzarella equally impressive, and the sausage added great flavor. My earlier concern about it being sparse proved unfounded; it was exactly right.

On to the pepperoni side. Like the sausage half, the balance was on point. The cupped pepperoni added bursts of spice that melded beautifully with the cheese and sauce. Each bite delivered a satisfying crunch from the crust and a wonderful blend of flavors.

The only drawback was the over-char on the crust. While both halves were delicious, that slight bitterness from the underside kept the pizza from reaching its full potential. With a lighter bake, it could have been truly spectacular.

How ya Dough’n? is a testament to what passion, quality ingredients, and a willingness to take a leap can create. From backyard beginnings to bustling storefronts, their commitment to craft was evident in every bite. The balance of sauce, cheese, and toppings is impressive, and the sourdough crust delivered great texture and flavor. While a lighter bake would have elevated it even further, this is still a very strong pie that’s absolutely worth seeking out.

4251 N Federal Hwy

Boca Raton, FL 33431

(561) 617-1579

howyadoughn.com

Why Pasta And (Margate) Sets the Standard for Italian Dining in South Florida

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When a restaurant delivers an exceptional experience, it deserves enthusiastic praise. What may have been the best meal I’ve ever enjoyed in Florida fell on my birthday, making it even more memorable. Pasta And in Margate achieved perfection in every aspect: atmosphere, service, and most importantly, the food. It is a special place defined by outstanding hospitality and remarkable cuisine.

With three of us celebrating, we decided to order generously. Guided by our server, we enjoyed a multi-course journey that showcased the kitchen’s range and finesse in this centuries-old Piedmontese cuisine.

We began with two appetizers. The first was an off-menu suggestion from the server (thank you) that instantly secured its place among my top ten dishes of all time, Bison Tartare with poached egg and black truffles. A large, cylindrical mound of impeccably seasoned chopped bison was crowned with a poached egg and generously adorned with slices of black truffle. The bison was surprisingly mild and paired with some of the finest truffles I’ve ever tasted, the dish transcended description. Those opening bites were moments I will remember forever. And set the tone for the evening.

Next came the Caprese di Burrata. The burrata was exceptional, its delicate outer shell encased an irresistibly creamy center. It was joined on the plate with generous slices of sweet, ripe tomatoes, fragrant basil leaves, and finished with a drizzle of balsamic. The balance of the creamy burrata, the sweet tomatoes and the freshness of the basil were flawless.

We then moved to three distinctly different pastas, each memorable in its own way.

Our favorite was the Pappardelle al Sugo di Cinghiale. This timeless preparation started with long strands of house-made egg pappardelle covered with a rich, deeply flavored sauce studded with tender shreds of boar. We carefully twirled the silky pasta around our forks and carefully added a generous portion of meat to enjoy this traditional classic. The combination was outstanding; each bite delivered comforting richness and depth. The luxurious sauce elevated the dish, making this time-honored preparation over-the-top delicious.

The boldest of the trio was the Agnolotti di Carne al Sugo di Brasato al Barolo. House-made pasta parcels, stuffed with beef, pork, and rabbit, were served in a deeply savory braised meat sauce. This was not a dish for the faint of heart, each bite was intense, hearty, and deeply satisfying, with soft textures and pronounced flavors. For those seeking richness and complexity, this dish delivered in full.

On the more aromatic end of Piedmontese cuisine was the Ravioli Romagnola al Burro, Salvia e Salsiccia. Filled with pumpkin and amaretti, the ravioli were dressed in a butter and sage sauce and finished with a sprinkling of sausage. The pumpkin filling was outstanding, rich and velvety, and paired beautifully with the subtle sweet nuttiness of the amaretti. While the butter and sage sauce would have been perfect on its own, the addition of sausage elevated the dish to another level.

For the entrées, we selected two very different preparations.

The first dish was the Ossobuco alla Milanese (photo above), the classic veal shank presented upright atop a bed of saffron risotto. The risotto was excellent, with just the right resistance and a fragrant saffron aroma and flavor. The slowly braised veal shank itself was tender, moist, and effortlessly fell from the bone, clearly treated with great care in the kitchen. My only disappointment was the portion size of the shank, which felt a bit light on the amount of meat in my portion, it left me wanting more.

The second entrée was the Branzino con Salsa di Limone e Vegetali, served with lemon sauce and mixed vegetables. A large swath of buttery lemon sauce formed the base and was first topped with sautéed tomatoes, zucchini, and beans, and then finished with two beautifully sautéed branzino fillets. The fish had a delicate crispness to the exterior that gave way to soft, moist flesh, cooked to perfection. The bright sauce complemented the fish beautifully, while the vegetables added sweetness and earthiness. This was one of the best fish preparations imaginable, simply focused on letting the ingredients shine.

We finished the meal with luscious Tiramisu and a decadent chocolate bombe. Both were exceptional.

Pasta And was an experience rather than merely celebrating a birthday at a restaurant. Every element of the evening felt thoughtfully refined, from the guidance of our server to the kitchen’s unwavering respect for ingredients and tradition. The menu balanced reverence for classic Piedmontese preparations with moments of indulgent creativity, resulting in dishes that were both deeply comforting and quietly thrilling. The evening reminded me why dining out can still feel special, why a meal can linger in your memory long after the plates are cleared. Celebrating my birthday here was a stroke of good fortune. Pasta And is not just one of the finest meals I’ve had in Florida, it is a restaurant I will return to with anticipation, confidence, and high expectations, knowing they will almost certainly be met.

4990 W Atlantic Blvd

Margate, FL 33063

954.977.3708

http://www.pastaand.com

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