From East Harlem to Boca: The Patsy’s Pizza Legacy Is Outstanding

Patsy’s. Grimaldi’s. Juliana’s, names synonymous with great New York City pizza. Separate by design but connected through a fascinating and tangled history.

The story begins in 1933, when Pasquale “Patsy” Lancieri and his wife, Carmella, opened the original Patsy’s Pizzeria on First Avenue in East Harlem. It was one of the first pizzerias in New York City to bake pies in a coal-fired oven, was among the first to sell pizza by the slice, and legend has it that it was one of Frank Sinatra’s favorites. After Lancieri’s death in 1991, the restaurant was sold to Frank Brija and longtime employees, ensuring the original location would continue its coal-fired tradition.

In the mid-1940s, Pasquale and Carmella’s fourteen-year-old nephew, Patsy Grimaldi, began his apprenticeship at Patsy’s Pizzeria’s First Avenue location. Decades later, in 1990, the younger Patsy opened his own pizzeria under the Brooklyn Bridge on Old Fulton Street in Brooklyn. There, he installed the first coal-fired pizza oven in NYC in more than fifty years. As a result of a lawsuit from the owners of the East Harlem Patsy’s, he was forced to rename his Brooklyn location to Grimaldi’s. In the late 1990’s, Patsy Grimaldi sold the Grimaldi’s name and business to restaurateur Frank Ciolli and retired.

But the story didn’t end there. In 2011, Grimaldi’s was forced to relocate from its Old Fulton Street address to a nearby space on Front Street. One year later, Patsy Grimaldi came out of retirement and reclaimed his original Old Fulton Street location, opening Juliana’s, named in honor of his mother. Grimaldi passed away in 2025, having devoted nearly eighty years to crafting some of the finest pizza in New York City.

Today, multiple restaurants across New York City, operating under different names, trace their lineage back to these two Patsys, the original 1933 coal-fired oven in East Harlem and a family’s enduring love for authentic New York pizza. The Boca Raton location, opened in 2025, is owned by Frank Brija, the same Frank Brija who purchased the original East Harlem Patsy’s in 1991.

When I heard that Patsy’s from Brooklyn had opened a satellite location in Boca Raton, I had to try it. The restaurant sits in downtown Boca on Plaza Real South, just southeast of the Federal Highway and East Palmetto Park Road intersection. There are numerous outdoor tables perfect for people-watching, and inside, a long bar stretches across the back of the dining area. The entire left wall is devoted to pizza, with the prep-area front and center, guarding the specialized, dual-fuel pizza oven. The oven floor is heated by gas, while the top heat is powered by coal, a throwback to its 1933 origins and one of the main reasons the pizza is outstanding.

I grabbed a small table outside and took in the scene. As I scanned the menu and spotted the legendary Patsy’s name, I couldn’t help but reflect. Nearly a century ago, a couple in East Harlem risked everything with little more than a coal oven, a recipe and sheer determination. Their nephew carried that torch under the Brooklyn Bridge. And here I was, far removed from those gritty New York streets, sitting in the polished setting of Boca, a complete contrast, yet connected by the same pizza lineage. The differences weren’t lost on me, I hoped I would taste the love and history when the pizza arrived.

I ordered an Original, with sausage on one half and pepperoni on the other.

When it hit the table, I was impressed. The sauce extended almost to the edge, leaving just a small border of beautifully charred crust from the coal fire. The sauce itself was a deep, rich red, applied generously but not excessively. The cheese was evenly layered, and the toppings were abundant without being overdone, hearty chunks of sausage and curled slices of pepperoni with a touch of oil in many of them.

I started with a piece from the sausage side. On its own, the sausage surprised me, it was milder than expected, with less fennel than I typically prefer. Next, I sampled a pepperoni cup, complete with its pooled oil. It was the complete polar opposite, bold, spicy, and assertive, perhaps even a touch too spicy for my usual taste. I wondered how each would meld with the other components in a full bite.

I next checked the underside, and it was perfectly baked, lightly charred, thin, crisp with hints of charring. I took a full bite of the sausage slice first. It was pizza heaven. The crust crunched, the sauce delivered deep tomato richness, the cheese added luscious creaminess, and the sausage tied it all together beautifully. Any initial hesitation with the sausage vanished completely. In combination, the sausage slice was perfectly balanced. It was one of the finest sausage slices I’ve ever had.

Then came the pepperoni slice. The crust, sauce, and cheese provided the same flawless foundation, but the pepperoni transformed the experience entirely. Its spiciness kicked in and challenged the palate. If the sausage side felt like a long, warm hug, the pepperoni side was an enthusiastic slap on the back, wake up and savor it. Though I’m not typically drawn to spicy pizza, this slice was fantastic.

With each slice, my smile grew wider. I was sitting in what felt like pizza royalty, even sitting in South Florida. Before leaving, I made sure to thank the pizzaiolos. They stood proudly in front of their oven, gracious and welcoming, guardians of a nearly century-old tradition that continues to thrive, one coal-kissed pie at a time.

114 Plaza Real S Boca Raton, FL 33432

(561) 334-2553

patsyspizzaflorida.com

Same Owners, New Name, Great Pizza at Sole Mio (Boynton Beach)

We had always enjoyed Nicoletta’s in Boynton Beach, so a few weeks ago, we were disappointed when we tried to order delivery through DoorDash, and it was not listed.

We were recently back in the neighborhood looking for a quick bite and decided to see if another restaurant had taken over their space. As we approached, we saw a new sign above the door, with the name of the new restaurant, Sole Mio. When we stepped inside, we were pleasantly surprised to see some familiar faces. It turned out to be a rebranding, with the same owners and a few thoughtful changes to the menu. With that reassurance, ordering a pizza felt like an easy choice.

We sat on the patio and ordered a Margherita pizza. While we waited, the owner graciously answered a few questions and explained two details that set their pizza apart. The dough was made with house-ground flour, incorporating semolina and a touch of whole grain, and the house-made mozzarella included a touch of white cheddar.

When the pizza arrived, it was immediately clear we were in for a delicious lunch. The pie looked fantastic and tasted even better. The crust was light, airy, and flavorful, with a subtle sweetness. As we pulled the slices apart, there was just a slight stretch. One bite was enough to remind us why we had enjoyed this place. The house-made sauce was rich and deeply flavored, applied generously, and the cheese, enhanced by that hint of cheddar, was excellent. A scattering of chiffonade of fresh basil finished the pie, adding a lovely earthy note.

Overall, our quick stop at Sole Mio was great, and we’re looking forward to returning to explore more of their menu.

8794 Boynton Beach Blvd.

Boynton Beach, FL 33472

(561) 740-4044

solemiokitchenbar.com

When the Name Sets the Bar Too High: Ah-Beetz Delray Beach Reviewed

It was time to try Ah-Beetz in Delray Beach.

When the owners chose to name their pizzeria Ah-Beetz, they invoked revered New Haven institutions and automatically set customer expectations at an extremely high level, and rightly so. They are calling upon storied traditions, and they better be prepared to deliver.

For those who have never lived in the greater New Haven area, ah-beetz is the historically correct pronunciation of apizza, a style first produced in coal ovens in New Haven, Connecticut, by immigrants from Naples, Italy, at the turn of the 20th century. With legendary institutions like Pepe’s and Sally’s approaching their 100th anniversaries, the standards they demand carry enormous weight. That legacy is what led me to visit Ah-Beetz in Delray. Several people have raved about Ah-Beetz in Delray, while a few warned me, I might be disappointed.

Ah-Beetz is located on the east side of Jog Road between Linton and Atlantic. I stopped in for an early solo lunch, grabbed a booth, and glanced over the menu. I already knew what I planned to order, though my menu-perusing habit was hard to break. When the server approached, I ordered a small Traditional Mootz and asked if I could have sausage on one-half. She was kind enough to mention that the sausage was crumbled, my least favorite style, so I switched to pepperoni.

It was before the lunch rush, so the restaurant was empty at that time of day, but I could easily imagine the chaotic din during peak hours, with people ordering, waiting, and shmoozing as each apizza is prepared and baked.

When my apizza arrived, it looked very well made, but…. The edges were too airy for a traditional ah beetz, but it did have nice char in several spots. A quick peek underneath revealed a good level of char as well, not too much, just enough to suggest a proper New Haven influence.

The toppings were applied generously, a good amount of sauce, cheese, and pepperoni, without any cupping on the latter, with some pooling of oil atop the cheese and a sprinkling of grated cheese as the finishing touch. When I pulled the first slice, a few strands of cheese stretched back to the pie, another good sign. At that moment, I thought this was going to be a very good pie.

I started by breaking off a piece of the crust. While it had a good flavor, it was too airy for New Haven ah beetz. Then I pulled a slice away and tried to lift, and that’s where things began to unravel. The first issue was the lack of sturdiness. While the edge was crisp, the center was noticeably soft, bordering on soggy, an early indication of too much sauce. The first bite confirmed it. The sauce was heavily applied, with a flavor closer to tomato paste than the light, fragrant sauce I had hoped for, and there was way too much oregano. The cheese, though nicely melted, was more pungent than I preferred, and the sogginess of the crust was a further distraction. I wasn’t enamored with the cheese slice.

I hoped the pepperoni side would minimally redeem the lunch. The pepperoni provided a decent level of spice, and the edges had a pleasant crunch, but again, the overall balance could not offset the disappointing oregano-ladened tomato sauce that remained at center stage.

Overall, I was really looking forward to Ah-Beetz reminding me of those great New Haven apizza joints back home in Connecticut. While I wasn’t expecting it to match the legendary establishments I’ve visited and written about over the years, I did expect the fundamentals to be present. The dough showed promise, but the sauce missed badly, the cheese was over applied, and the finished product simply didn’t live up to the name. Even with the limited options in this part of Florida, I’d struggle to justify a return visit. I was hoping for much better.

15220 S Jog Rd.

Delray Beach, FL 33446

(561) 908-2466

ah-beetz.com