The Connecticut Pizza Trail recently unveiled its list of the top 100 pizzerias for us pizza-loving Nutmeggers. While I could easily name a few they overlooked, it’s no surprise that many of the revered New Haven legends made the cut, with the rest fanning out in a 180-degree sweep west, north, and east across the state. Some of the additional names were instantly familiar, others have now earned a spot on my ever-growing “must-try” list. As I worked through the county-by-county alphabetical lineup, my attention naturally drifted to my home turf, New Haven County. One recognizable name after another appeared, and then, near the end, there it was: Zois Pizza. Tucked just off Route 8’s Exit 18 in Seymour, this unassuming gem might fly under the radar for outsiders, but for locals, Zois has long been among the Valley’s best.
The year was 1970. Richard Nixon sat in the Oval Office, the first Earth Day was celebrated, Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix left the world their last notes of brilliance, the tragedy at Kent State shocked the nation, and OSHA was born. In the small town of Seymour, population 12,776, Zois Tzepos opened his namesake pizzeria amongst the U.S. Post Office, a movie house and a small train station. While most were focused on Wooster Street’s legendary apizza, Zois stayed true to his roots, crafting Greek-style pies made from a two-rise dough and baked to perfection in a pan.
Fast-forward 55 years, and the ovens now rest under the watchful eye of Zois’ son, Jim. A second-generation pizza maker, Jim is no stranger to the art of stretching, topping, and baking, skills he began honing as a teenager. By his own estimate, he’s crafted more than three million pizzas over the years. On any given day, other members of the Tzepos family can also be found pitching in, whether working the register, prepping ingredients, or tending the ovens. Jim’s wife and children keep the spirit of a true family operation alive as the third generation carries the Zois legacy forward.
After several visits, it’s safe to say I’m firmly a big fan.
At first glance, Zois’ pie looks deceptively simple, classic in appearance, yet with one subtle difference, the crust. Unlike New Haven apizza, where the lofty and airy crust shows spots of char from the high-temperature ovens, Zois’s version features a modest, thin rim that frames the center, its golden-brown color is barely dotted with hints of char. The layering of the sauce, cheese, and toppings looked perfectly balanced, and the aroma alone was enough to draw me in. A quick peek underneath revealed an even bake, a moderately tan underbelly with just a few char marks. It looked sturdy enough to lift a slice, including any toppings, without fear of collapse.
The real test began with the crust, with a flavor and texture very different from its New Haven cousins, yet instantly recognizable as true Greek-style. The first bite brought a satisfying crunch, followed by a touch of density and a mild flavor that would allow the toppings to take center stage. I ordered a few meat combinations, starting with my usual go-to, pepperoni and sausage, with the addition of a few ripened tomato slices. It’s always interesting to see which one claims the flavor spotlight, and at Zois, the sausage edged out the pepperoni. When it was delivered, I was impressed by the composition, baked until the cheese just started to brown, large tomato slices and a good amount of the requested meats. Both the sausage and the pepperoni were excellent, but the sausage outperformed the pepperoni. In fact, I would have preferred a little more participation from the latter, maybe with a touch more spiciness
Each pizzeria has a namesake combination, and after a bit of research, I discovered that many loyal fans highly recommend adding bacon, and who am I to dispute or dissuade myself from enjoying some bacon on a pizza? When I caught my first glimpse of Zois’s bacon-topped pie, I was intrigued. Instead of the usual crumbled bacon bits, they’d laid full, cooked slices on top of the cheese, a presentation I hadn’t seen in quite some time. One bite was all it took to win me over. The crisp rashers added crunch and a smoky, salty punch in every bite.
As many say in their assessment of pizza, how does a plain old slice stand up? And Zois does marvelously. With only crust-sauce-cheese, the pizza prepared by Zois was delicious, whether plain or with additional toppings, Zois’ is a major hit.
After fifty-five years, Zois Pizza remains a quiet testament to consistency, family, and pride in craft. From Zois Tzepos’s first pan pie in 1970 to Jim’s three millionth today, the Seymour landmark proves that tradition, family, and craftsmanship never go out of style. For anyone traveling the Connecticut Pizza Trail, this small-town spot deserves a well-earned stop. After all these years, Zois Pizza still delivers the kind of comfort that keeps me coming back.
48 Main St.
Seymour, CT 06483
(203) 888-1131
zoispizza.com
Jfood Eats 