Blackbird (New Canaan) – You Gotta Get There

It’s been a while since a new restaurant opened in New Canaan, so I was very excited when I heard that the much-anticipated Blackbird opened a few doors down from its sister restaurant Solé. After the first visit, the food was so spectacular, that I was quick to visit a second time a week late. Spoiler alert – It is already serving some of the best and most creative dishes in Fairfield County.

Blackbird is the newly opened addition of the Z Hospitality Group, which operates numerous, well-established restaurants in the area including Solé, Mediterraneo, Terra and East End. The narrow and long space is akin to the Solé layout, with tables in the front and a long bar and tables once you reach the mid-point. Unlike Solé, the kitchen is not open to full view, but is located behind doors in the rear. The front area serves guests on traditional tables while high-tops are stationed along the left wall in the rear half, which it shares with the long bar on the right. I was initially concerned about the potential for difficulty in hearing (a la Solé) but I was pleasantly surprised that the ambient noise in the front was friendly and the high-tops across from the bar were even better.

During our two visits, I enjoyed several of their newly designed, and expertly prepared dishes.

I ordered two different appetizers on my visits. The first was the Yellow Fin Tuna Noodles served atop tapenade and radish sprouts ($21). The first question…what are “tuna noodles.” If you think of long, square strands of sliced tuna, you’ve nailed it. The kitchen arranges several long strands sitting atop the pureed tapenade, another different interpretation. This Mediterranean-inspired puree delivered a completely different profile than the ever-present Asian tuna tartare that resides on 95% of the local menus. This was a totally different profile, earthy, bright, and rich all in one bite. I was impressed that the chef created a more creative use of the tuna and really liked the combination and it set the stage nicely for the other dishes. 

The other appetizer I ordered was the Amish Chicken Wings with a chili ginger glaze and served with peanuts and scallions ($12). This was a very unusual choice for me, but I am glad I did. The dish included three full wings (both the drums and flats) covered in sticky sauce and finished with peanuts and some sliced scallions. As I gingerly (no pun intended) bit into the first section I was really impressed, they exploded with flavor, not temperature. Thank you to the kitchen as the wings arrived at an edible temperature, not so hot as to incinerate my mouth with bite #1. The sauce had a delightful flavor, with just the right amount of spiciness (I give it a 4-5 on the spice meter) and a ton of Asian influence, and the crunchiness of the peanuts was a great addition. I thought the wings were fantastic.   

For my entrée choices, I went in two totally different directions.

On the first visit, I ordered the Wild Black Sea Bass with pea miso puree, asparagus, and morel mushrooms ($35). What can I say other than the fish, puree and asparagus were beyond spectacular? Blackbird offers a large filet sitting atop pencil-thin charred asparagus and both nestled in the pea puree. Sitting alongside these elements was a few morel mushrooms (one of my favorite varieties). A little dab of the puree and I knew this was going to be special, then a fork through the ultra-crispy skin and into the fish, expectations elevated more, and then the combo. Wow! The fish was perfectly prepared and with the puree, created an out-of-this-world combo. The asparagus added even more flavors. While I was extremely excited with the prospect of the morels, they were the one disappointment. Unfortunately, they absorbed a lot of the vinegar in the sauce, they lost all their earthy goodness. Overall, this was one of the best fish dishes I have eaten in quite some time.

If you have been following my decade of Fairfield County dining, you know I am a sucker for a good burger. When I saw Blackbird’s interpretation of the Double Bacon Smash® Burger on the menu, it was like magnets of opposite polarity, gotta get connected. The Blackbird Smash Burger includes onions, mushrooms, melted Gruyere cheese, baconaisse & pickled tomato ($25). All of my faves were encased in a sesame seed bun, Blackbird created an amazing new combination to this century-old burger tradition. Start with a couple of seared patties, and first take a few cues from French onion soup with the addition of soft, caramelized onions and melted Gruyere cheese. It was a great idea, but what about some mushrooms, yeah that should add some earthy qualities, but you also need some lettuce and tomato, not just a simple slice of tomato, Blackbird went to the left by adding a slice of pickled tomato. And if that was not enough, let’s throw some bacony mayo on the bun. It must have been as much fun to create as it was to eat. It was one of my favorite combinations in a long time, thank you.  Blackbird also added some fries on the side in the New Canaan-approved silver chalice. To say I liked the burger would be an understatement.

We also ordered a few desserts for the table to share. The big hit was the Japanese Donuts with lemon curd and strawberry sauce. Five golf-ball-sized orbs were accompanied by a small dish of lemon curd and strawberry sauce. Everyone can decide on the level and combination of flavors… the naked donuts were delicious and with each added topping, they became even better. The donuts were a great ending to the meal.

After only a short time, Blackbird has elevated itself to one of the best in New Canaan. The vibe was great, the acoustics allowed for table conversation, and the food was over the top delicious. So glad there is another great restaurant in New Canaan.

Some Great Eats @The Corner (Litchfield)

We finally made it to @The Corner in Litchfield. It is located at the eastern end of the town green at the corner (no surprise) of West St. and South St. just a couple of doors up from the post office. There are two rooms, one a dining room and the other a bar with several tables. At mid-day, it was about 30% full, with numerous locals having lunch. 

The lunch menu is mostly sandwiches, creative burgers, and a few salads. We were not sure what to order and we went for two of their basic offerings. 

I chose the GOCHUJANG CHICKEN ($16), which was crispy buttermilk fried chicken thigh, kimchee cucumbers, sweet & sour cabbage, gochujang honey & sesame aioli. The chicken was perfectly fried (I like the thigh much better than the breast) to a crispy exterior while maintaining a moist interior. Then I tasted the toppings. I absolutely loved the combination. Between the sweet, spicy, crunchy interplay it was not only a delicious sandwich but a great sandwich. The entire dish had such great complexity and just the right level of spiciness. While the roll could handle all the ingredients, I found it easier to enjoy with a knife and fork. I give the sandwich an 8. 

As a side, I had to order the ONION RINGS ($8), which were beer battered and served with corner sauce. @The Corner does not skimp on this side dish, not a mere 4-5 rings, but closer to a baker’s dozen, and we were glad they gave us such a nice-sized portion. These rings were delicious, from the sweetness and soft interior to the perfectly crispy exterior. The corner sauce was a great complement with just a hint of spice. Best onion rings in quite some time, I give them a 9.

My wife was not in the mood for a burger or sandwich, so she decided to order a small plate of SMOKED SALMON LATKES ($17), which were crisp potato pancakes topped with chive creme fraiche, smoked salmon, crispy capers & beet pickled red onions. There are two methods to make potato latkes, one with a grater and one with a ricer, @The Table uses the latter, which makes for a much denser latke. Both of us found these much too dense. It would also have benefitted from more onion. While the flavor was pretty good, it was not to our liking, and I can only give a 2.

@The Corner is a great place to relax during the day in one of our favorite towns, Litchfield. My recommendation is to stick to the core of the menu, the burgers, sandwiches, and fries. The fried chicken and onion rings were both delicious, and I would highly recommend both.

Community Table (New Preston) – Magnificent Food in a Wonderful Locale

I’ve heard so much about Community Table (affectionately known at CT) in New Preston, CT, over the years that when my college roommate texted me and asked if we wanted to join him and his husband for dinner, I was ecstatic. 

The drive through the rolling hills of Washington Township, and through the tranquility of Litchfield county took about 40 minutes. The exterior of CT is very non-descript, a simple white building, with a minimalist “CT” sign, and the interior was a throwback colonial bar feeling with beams and lots of wood. We entered the bar area, where we were greeted by a wonderful woman, who took our jackets and escorted us to the back dining room, where under twenty guests would enjoy the magnificent cuisine. Our server arrived, gave us a warm welcome and we looked to begin our evening.

We started with the House-Made Six Grain Sourdough Bread and sea salted butter ($12). One bite and I knew this was going to be a special night. The bread had a wonderful, moist texture, full of flavor and the butter was salted perfectly. It was so special that on our subsequent visit, we bought a second loaf to go.

Throughout this dinner and our subsequent visit a week later, we enjoyed some spectacular cuisine.

My wife ordered the Local Portobello Mushroom Soup with pepitas and orange gremolata, with a drizzle of balsamic reduction ($17). The version presented by CT was one of, if not the best, mushroom soups anywhere. The umami of the mushrooms was fully evident, and the texture was smooth as silk, with an incredible earthiness. One would think that there was cream in the soup, but not a trace, only emulsified mushrooms to create the silky texture. This is easily a 10+.

I opted for a half order of the homemade Bucatini All’ Amatriciana, prepared with preserved San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, Aleppo pepper, and Pecorino Romano cheese ($24). Let’s begin with the pasta, prepared to perfection and the appetizer-sized option was good portion. It was topped with a rich tomato sauce, which benefited both from the quality and the preserved process, plus some chunks of the guanciale and smothered in the grated Pecorino. Given the All’ Amatriciana description, I was a little concerned about the spice level, but there was barely a kick in the sauce. Instead, it was spectacular in tomato lusciousness, and I was glad they offered a spoon, so I could enjoy every, last bite. This was also easily a 10+.

I am a huge fan of duck, so I decided to order the Five Spice Pekin Duck Breast, Cortland apple puree, radicchio, and red wine duck jus ($39). (Pictured above) Two large strips of rare duck breast sat atop the large portion of radicchio. The server poured the duck jus around the dish, and I found the puree hidden beneath the radicchio. The duck was tender, succulent, and rich in flavor, it was superbly prepared to the lighter side of medium rare. The key to this dish was the Cortland apple puree, it brought all the great duck flavors to the forefront. The jus was a great counterbalance to the apple sweetness. The radicchio added a certain tartness to the dish. It is easy to give this dish a 10+.

My wife ordered the Bincho Grilled Lemon Garlic Marinated Head-On Prawns, ancho chili, stone ground cheddar cheese grits, and scallions ($42). Four large prawns grilled on Bincho high-heat grill sat atop the grits and the kitchen was kind enough to separate the heads from the bodies. The prawns offered a very mild spiciness from the ancho chili rub, and the cheddar cheese grits were better than anything I ate while living in Georgia. This was another 10 dish.

It was such a great evening that my wife and I decided to return a week later. We again asked for the back room, looking for some quiet time. With four 2-tops lined along the wall, we understood the term community table. All eight of us engaged in interspersed conversation at times while we each focused on our individual dinner partner at other times. 

On the second visit, I started with the Black Sea Bass Crudo, with shaved fennel, grapefruit, and chives ($21). If you are looking for a refined dish to open your palate for the rest of the evening, this is an excellent option. A large portion of thinly sliced sea bass filled the plate and was topped with grapefruit segments and thinly sliced fennel circles. Droplets of spiced oil and a few strands of dill finished the dish. The combination of flavors and textures was refreshing, delicious, and completely satisfying. Like most of the dishes at CT, the guest can decide on various combinations from a single element to all of the components. I would rate this dish a 9-10.

On this second visit, I decided to order a slightly heavier entrée, the Berkshire House Smoked Pork Chop with celery root puree, charred broccolini, and a mole poblano ($44). Two concentric circles with the mole portion surrounding the celery root puree were flanked by a large, sliced pork chop on one side and the charred broccolini on the other. The first bite was the pork chop was very good but needed something to balance the flavor. the addition of the mole and puree was required to appreciate the vision of the chef. Each bite was smoky, creamy, spicy, and sweet. The charred broccolini added another sweet component, and was sweet and the ever-so-slight char added a nice depth. I give this dish a 9.

As I mentioned in other articles, there is sometimes a weak link, and for CT it was the Chocolate Tres Leche Cake with burnt local cream ($16). We ordered on both visits, not believing our palate on the first. The cake was dense, dry, and not very chocolatey (the opposite of our expectations with a tres leche cake) and the icing was a bland rendition. I was hoping for a delightfully light and moist ending, but it was not to my liking. I will not rank this cake.

Why we waited so long to venture to CT still shocks me, the food was remarkable, the service impeccable, and the management was over-the-top friendly and inviting on both of our visits. A great job by all.

BLDG (New Haven) – The Food is Spectacular

I’ve driven by the building hundreds of times in the last 45 years and had absolutely no idea it was designed by one of the greatest architects of the 20th century, Marcel Breuer, one of the famous Harvard 5. Commissioned by the Armstrong Rubber, I knew it as the Pirelli Tire HQ, sitting on the northern side of I-95 across from the food trucks and on the same campus as Ikea. You all know the building from its exterior, the interior is now a Hilton, and hidden within the lobby floor is some of the best food in New Haven county…served at BLDG. 

Overseeing the kitchen is former Hell’s Kitchen finalist, Megan Gill, whose door did not open on the last night of Season 20, “Young Guns,” while the winner Trenton Garvey’s did. After a quick stop in Texas at a high-end country club Megan moved to CT and I am glad she did, the food is spectacular. The space is more hotel breakfast diner than upscale chic, but make no mistake about it, the food is way up the sophistication scale. 

We started with a shared MARINATED OLIVES with garlic, lemon, orange peel, and herbs.

$8. I rarely rave about a bowl of olives, but these were special. They were soft, full of flavor, and completely infused with a good level of citrus-ness. This was a great start to the meal. I give them a 9.

For my entrée, I chose the NE FISH & CHIPS, described as Massachusetts skate, house fries, malt vinegar, and lemon ($26). I am a big fan of skate and just a big a fan of fish & chips. When I saw this combo, it was a gotta-have. And I am glad I did. The breading was perfect, lightly coated and then flash fried. The result was a complete crisp-moist combo between the exterior and the interior. The skate was a fantastic choice by the chef. This was easily a 10. The fish sat atop a huge mound of seasoned fries. If there was one small nit to the dish, the bay seasoning that covered the fries was just a little too much, I would have preferred a lighter touch.

While not on the paper menu, one of the specials for the evening was Sesame Noodles with peanut sauce. If the server lets you know it is available on your visit, you absolutely must order. While the server mentioned that a protein can be placed atop, go naked with the dish. The noodles were spectacular and the dressing even better. The peanut sauce had just a touch of spiciness. This is easily a 10+.

Back on the menu was the TRUFFLE RISOTTO ($10). As a big fan of risotto and add another fave, the truffles, it was an easy choice to include as a shared dish. Everyone was “give me more” on the risotto, one in the party thought it was even better than the noodles, sorta a how high is up argument. The rice was perfectly cooked with just a little resistance, a little gooey-ness from the cheese, and then the flavors kicked in and they were fantastic. This was the second 10+ appetizer for the table.

Almost every meal has a weak link, and it was unanimous that the MUSHROOMS was the unfortunate member in that category on our visit. Whether the kitchen lost focus when prepared or the item was still in beta mode, this was a plate of chopped and sauteed mushrooms, full stop. No one at the table thought they were in the same league as the rest of the dishes. Unfortunately, I can only give a 1 for this dish, with the hope that the kitchen was focused elsewhere when it was preparing.

Dessert time rolled in, and we opted for two of them. The big winner was the APPLE GALETTE, prepared with NY honeycrisp apples, and caramel sauce, and served a la mode ($12). the pastry chef nailed the galette. I was very surprised by the size, it was a very large portion, contrary to the current downsizing approach to many desserts. The crust was buttery, and crispy and was a great canvas for the apples. The choice of honeycrisp was a great idea and the caramel sauce was a wonderful accompaniment. I give this an easy 10.

On the other hand, the CHOCOLATE LAVA CAKE ($12) with house-made whipped cream and fresh berries was a distant second. While many restaurants serve this as a cake on a plate, BLDG serves their lava cake still in the ramekin, which was more lava than cake. While the flavors were incredibly rich and chocolatey, it was more of a wonderful chocolate accompaniment for the whipped cream and berries. I can only give this a 6.

When we saw the space, we were a little skeptical, but when the food started descending onto the table the elevation of excellence soared. The noodles, the risotto, and the fish & chips were all perfect and then to conclude with the perfect galette made for a wonderful dinner.

Domenick & Pia – Great Pizza Find in Waterbury

I gotta go to the DMV…

In the old days, you would have packed lunch, dinner, and possibly an overnight bag. Now, you make an appointment online, show up, check-in, bam, boom, out in under 30 minutes, total. So when I recently scheduled my visit, I chose a lunchtime appointment so I could combine it with seeking out a hidden gem in Waterbury. And this time I finally found one…Domenick & Pia Downtown Pizzeria.

Domenick and Pia is located at 3 Brook St. around the corner from the Palace Theatre and the University of Connecticut (Waterbury) and has served pizza to the local community for over 50 years. Any place that successfully thrived and survived through those economic swings of Waterbury has something to offer. To say Domenick and Pia is a hole in the wall would be an understatement. While the exterior reflects the recent gentrification of this small part of Waterbury, walk through the doors and whoosh, back to the 1970s. The general ambiance of the interior is probably reflecting its grand opening with Formica-topped and wood-trimmed tables, push-on prices reminiscent of the side-of-the-road hamburger stands, red plastic trays to carry your pick-up order to the table, the whole nine yards. My guess is the original pie-price was under $2, with a 25-cent slice-price. There is no glamour, no TVs, no beer, just good old-fashioned pizza, a couple of hot oven grinders, a ton of drink options, and one of the most pleasant staff imaginable. To succeed with this formula, the pizza better be really good. Mission accomplished.

I ordered two slices from the young lady, one sausage and the other pepperoni…”let me throw those in the oven to make them perfect again.” Over my right shoulder I heard, “Throw a second sausage on that tray.” Obviously a regular and normal SOP, very cool.

She collected my $5 for the two slices, placed the plastic tray on the counter added a few napkins and I waited for my hot slices to…emerge…received…a little walk to a cleared table and a few photos. The slices looked very good, and my next step was to look at the underside. It was really well done, a nice brown with no burns, and it felt a little crunchy.

Now the test, and that first bite sets the stage, and the third bite is the litmus test (yes it is the third, NOT the first bite of a pizza slice that counts). I went with the pepperoni (it was closer) and the first bite brought a smile. The price may be 10X from when Domenick and Pia opened, but the pizza immediately transported me to those childhood days of eating pizza. The crust was crisp, had some great tomato sauce (probably housemade), the cheese was just the right flavor and amount, and the pepperoni gave a nice kick without too much spiciness. Major pass on bite #1. After two more bites, this slice passed all the tests, it was great.

Onto the sausage slice. My preference is for chunks of sausage versus slices, Domenick and Pia chose the latter. Bite #1 on the sausage side was also a pleasant surprise. The sausage was very good, not perfect but really, really good. I like a little more fennel and chunks, but for sliced sausage, it was almost perfect. And given the crust, sauce, and cheese combo, it was a great slice.

As I was leaving I decided to return and thank the person behind the counter who I thought was the owner. When I complimented him and the pizza, he called for his mother from the back and said this was all her doing. So there I was thanking the founder/matriarch and the son who has kept this Waterbury tradition alive for over fifty years. My hat’s off to the founder, the son, the staff, and the pizza. It was a great find for some incredible slices.

Domenick and Pia

3 Brook St.

Waterbury, CT 06702

(203) 753-3401

https://www.domenickpiadowntownpizzeria.com