Years ago, when I was commuting to Minneapolis, I heard about a fantastic Thai restaurant in St. Paul. A little research revealed that it was hidden in the back of a small grocery store, guests sat communally at wooden picnic tables, the menu was written in Thai on the wall, and not a single employee spoke English, but the research confirmed it had some of the best Thai food in the Twin Cities.
Knowing I would not be able to read the menu, I remembered a trick my older brother once taught me. When he lived in NYC, he frequented a well-known Chinese restaurant in Chinatown. After many visits, he wanted to order dishes that weren’t on the menu. He grabbed one of his high-end Chinese cookbooks, wrote the desired dish names in Chinese, and brought the list with him. The staff smiled affectionately when he handed them the list. They loved the opportunity to make something different, and the chefs were thrilled.
I tried this same strategy in St. Paul. I translated a few dishes into Thai, walked into the grocery store, and handed the lady behind the counter my list. Her genuine smile was a precursor to a great meal. The meal was spectacular. I sat at a communal picnic table in the back of a grocery store, eating some of the best Thai food of my life.
Fast forward to 2025. When I was asked if I wanted to try The Loop by Hachiroku in New Haven, I had two immediate thoughts and was thrilled. First, its connection to Hachiroku, considered by many to be in the Top 5 sushi restaurants in New Haven, and second, any restaurant sharing space with a grocery store wouldn’t have any hint of pretension. I was excited for some great Southeast Asian cuisine in a relaxed environment, and I was fully satisfied.
The Asian food culture revolves around sharing experiences, the culinary creations that are intimately composed, the cadence of the presentations, and the variation in flavors from delicate to bold. The four of us planned from the minute the menus were delivered that this meal would be numerous dishes in the middle of the table, individual plates in front of each of us would receive bites from each, and our chopsticks would be prepared for a workout.
Our server busily scribbled all our requested dishes, as her smile grew wider with each of our requests.
I am a proud member of the Carnivore of America club. I love meat. Yet the two dishes I enjoyed the most were both vegetarian: the Teriyaki Brussels (fried Brussels sprouts, glazed sauce, sesame, soy sauce, sake, mirin, sweet potato chips, and renkon chips) and the Yaki Kinoko (a mix of grilled mushrooms with garlic, soy sauce, butter, sake, and yuzu juice). I was almost embarrassed by how often I reached for another Brussels sprout. The flavors were over the top, bold and addictive, and the combination of sweet potato and lotus root chips created a perfect textural contrast. The mushrooms were a pleasure, and equally impressive; the earthy flavor blended seamlessly with a rich, assertive sauce. These two were excellent.
The other standout dish was the Salmon Confit, a slow-cooked filet of Faroe Island salmon with miso basil and ikura. The texture alone was amazing, soft, velvety, and juicy throughout. When we added a touch of miso basil for sweetness and the pop of salty ikura on top, it was a luxurious combination.
Two smaller plates were also delicious, the Kale Tofu Goma-ae (kale, beets, tofu, lotus root, sesame sauce) and the Yuzu Edamame (sautéed edamame with rayu, yuzu juice, salt, and sesame). The kale salad was unlike any I’ve eaten. The mound of kale was perfectly dressed, the pureed beets surprisingly toned down, and the crispy lotus root added a fantastic finishing crunch. And while most places serve edamame simply steamed with a sprinkle of salt, The Loop took this traditional shared starter in a completely different direction. They sautéed the pods with an added uncharacteristic spiciness and elevated a simple ingredient into something memorable.
Now onto the two other protein-focused dishes that I highly recommend. Both the Kamoni (slow-cooked duck breast with scallion, yuzu candy, and soy sauce) and the Chicken Nanban (fried chicken with tartar sauce, egg, mayo, pickled cucumbers, soy sauce, and rice vinegar) were delicious. The duck arrived simply sliced with charred scallions on top. The texture remained firm, and the scallions and sauce added a wonderful depth and complexity. The dark meat fried chicken was perfectly crisped on the exterior and was plated around a creamy, egg-salad-like mixture. The contrast of the crunchy hot chicken with the cool, smooth sauce was spot on.
I saved the fusion-inspired ramen noodle dishes for last. When we first saw that the menu included Cacio e Pepe Ramen (ramen noodles, Parmesan, black pepper, salt, soy sauce, and butter), we knew it would be included in the order. When our server mentioned one of the daily specials was a Ramen Bolognese, we decided to add that as well. While I loved the creativity, the Bolognese was a bit tangy for my taste, and the Cacio would have benefited from the inclusion of more sauce. They were good but sitting on the table with so many stellar dishes, these two, unfortunately, took a backseat.
You MUST save room for dessert, all made by Hen & Heifer in Guilford (a must-visit bakery). There were two options available on our visit: a slice of Pear Cake and a Pumpkin Panna Cotta. We ordered both. The pear cake was extraordinary, one of the moistest, most delicious cake slices I’ve ever eaten. The panna cotta offered a more autumn-ish flavor, and when combined with a few of the roasted pumpkin seeds, it created a delicious bite.
Overall, The Loop by Hachiroku delivered exactly the kind of experience that keeps me seeking out hidden gems. The kitchen created and delivered vibrant dishes meant to be shared, showcasing an impressive range of flavors, from humble vegetables elevated to star status to rich, perfectly prepared proteins. And then the desserts left that final, lasting impression. The Loop captured the subtle boldness of Southeast Asian cuisine, and it’s a place I look forward to returning to again and again.
367 Orange St.
New Haven, CT 06511
(203) 676-9572
Jfood Eats 