I’ve always believed the secrets to a truly great pizza are ingredients combined with a gentle balance. Each of the components needs to meld with the others, too much of one thing, and the whole pie could stumble.
After hearing a few positive comments about Rossano’s Pizza Lab on North Congress Ave. in Delray, I decided to give it a shot. It’s not the easiest place to find, it is hidden in one of the strip malls just north of Atlantic, the sign is subtle, and the pizzeria itself is tiny. Outside is a single picnic table and, when it’s not in use, Rossanos’ baby-blue pizza truck.
Inside, the ordering space is barely four feet by fifteen, with a narrow counter running along the right. Most of the space is dedicated to showcasing Sicilian pies ready for slice orders, and a small area at the end handles orders and payments. There are no tables or chairs, this was a take-out joint. Since I was interested in a Neapolitan style, and the only pre-made slices were Sicilian, I ordered a basic 12” cheese and waited outside at the picnic table.
When my pie was removed from the oven, it was piping hot, the crust had risen beautifully with just a little char in spots, and there was a generous amount of cheese. As I waited for it to cool, I sampled the crust. It was airy, flavorful and delicious. Next, the cheese was a good-quality whole-milk mozzarella. Finally, a bit of the sauce and it was bright, sweet, and lively. Positives on the three major ingredients.
But here’s where balance, or should I say imbalance, came into play. The toppings were too generous, lifting a slice with sauce and cheese intact was impossible. The first bite confirmed that there was way too much cheese. By the second slice, the crust had given up, the entire top (cheese and sauce) slid off, leaving me holding a bare wedge with a faint blush of sauce. I looked at the third slice, tried a bite, and ultimately surrendered.
I really wanted to like Rossano’s pizza more than I did. Individually, the crust, sauce, and cheese were excellent. But the execution was too much, too much, too much, and it distracted from the enjoyment. When I return, I’ll ask them to go light on the cheese, because with a little restraint, Rossano’s could be something special.
Rossano’s Pizza Lab
1445 N. Congress Ave.
Delray Beach, Florida
561-406-0101
Jfood Eats 