Located overlooking the scenic Quinnipiac River in the northeast section of New Haven, Fair Haven Oyster Company offers a tranquil escape with a focus on fresh, locally inspired cuisine. On a beautiful summer evening, I was fortunate enough to snag an outdoor table right on the rail. With the river gently flowing beside us, two of us enjoyed a relaxing meal centered around fresh ingredients and thoughtfully prepared seafood.
Fair Haven Oyster Company is housed in a modest wooden structure that does not give justice to the dining experience. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a friendly hostess who escorted us to the back patio. Other seating options include reservable bar seats and tables along the barn-boarded interior walls that give the space a rustic, casual charm. Fortunately for us, we were headed out to the porch, which turned out to be the perfect setting for a relaxed and memorable summer evening.
The menu reflected the bounty of the season, with a strong emphasis on fish and seafood. Visiting in mid-July, it included a generous selection of fresh salads and seafood preparations, all highlighting the kitchen’s commitment to high-quality ingredients and simplicity.
We started the evening with two very different appetizers that we both wanted to try. It was the perfect way to sample a bit more of what the kitchen had to offer, and to set the tone for the meal ahead.
The first appetizer was the tomatoes and ricotta, served with grilled cucumber, torn basil, fried shallots and bottarga. Generously portioned, it was easily shareable between the two of us. The presentation began with a broad smear of creamy ricotta as the base, topped with four thick tomato slices, two red and two yellow, along with a handful of cherry tomatoes and the grilled cucumber. The cucumbers, which seemed to have been lightly pickled before grilling, added a tangy contrast, and the scattered fried shallots and shavings of bottarga brought texture and umami, while torn basil and a drizzle of olive oil finished the dish. The tomatoes were bright, refreshing, and full of flavor, though one slice was slightly overripe and lacked the firmness of the others. Still, the combination of textures and flavors worked beautifully. It was a strong start to the meal, a solid 8.
We also ordered the baby lettuces with fried oysters, green goddess dressing, pickled shallots, and bonito. This was also a generous portion, and we enjoyed sharing both the appetizers. A mix of red and green leaf lettuces formed the base, lightly dressed in just enough green goddess to enhance, without overwhelming. The pickled shallots and bonito flakes added a slight depth and complexity. The fried oysters, about half a dozen, were cooked perfectly, but the coating lacked any noticeable seasoning (on a subsequent visit the seasoning on the oysters was much better), which was the one shortcoming of the dish, and kept it from reaching its full potential. I’d give the first visit a 7, which increased to a 9 with the properly seasoned oysters.
For my entrée, I chose one of my favorite fishes, a bone-in skate wing (pictured above), pan-seared and served with capers, Meyer lemon, tomato preserves, and brown butter. The result was nothing short of spectacular. Although the server offered to debone it, I declined, part of the eating pleasure of eating skate is carefully removing the meat immediately prior to each bite. The piece was cooked to perfection, with the flesh remaining moist and rich, while the quick pan-sear added a delightful contrast in texture. Each element on the plate contributed beautifully, the Meyer lemon sauce was bright and zesty, the capers brought just the right hint of saltiness, and the sun-dried tomatos delivered a delightful, concentrated burst of flavor. Altogether, it was a flawlessly executed dish, an easy 10.
My wife ordered the grilled Dorade, served with Gigante beans, artichoke, and preserved lemon, another standout. The whole fish arrived marked with symmetric cross-hatched grill lines. After removing the head and tail, the first bite confirmed that the preparation was as great as the presentation. We were pleasantly surprised that the fish was deboned (this was a positive versus my desire to de-bone my Skate), and the first bite delivered a perfect balance of crispy skin and tender, moist flesh. The Dorade was nestled atop a smooth Gigante bean purée, with additional whole beans layered over the fish for added texture. To complete the presentation, the kitchen added a few deep-fried artichoke halves, which brought both visual appeal and a satisfying crunch. It was easily one of the best preparations of Dorade we’ve ever had, another easy 10.
Service was as good as the entrees, flawless, unobtrusive and present when required.
Fair Haven Oyster Company strikes a rare balance, an unfussy environment within friendly surroundings, a thoughtful menu, and a laid-back, yet attentive service. It is a wonderful way to spend an evening.
307 Front St, New Haven, CT 06513
(203) 745-5741
Jfood Eats 