Five-Course Tasting Menu @Bar Sugo – Norwalk

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Several years ago I sampled Chef Pat Pascarella’s Pasta Bolognese from his original pizzeria and pasta storefront hidden off the beaten path on route 123 in Norwalk. It was one of the best Bolognese I had ever eaten and over the years I have enjoyed many of Chef Pat’s creations. He recently introduced Bar Sugo’s full-table Pasta Tasting menu and invited CTbites to sample the five courses, each very different…from a straightforward tomato and basil to a complex lobster, morel and truffle. The incredible Bolognese that Chef Pat served me several years ago was a prelude to the fantastic five courses that I enjoyed with wine pairings from Megan Pacarella.

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The first course was a traditional Spaghetti with tomato and basil. The pasta was cooked to al dente with just a small bite to the texture. It was swathed with a rich and thick tomato sauce with a smattering of torn basil leaves. The sauce was a deep and vibrant concentration of tomato flavor. This simple presentation proved that a great dish requires only perfectly cooked pasta and a rich, delicious tomato sauce.

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This was followed by two filled pasta courses. The first was a golden beet and Robiolina cheese stuffed Casonsei. The triangular pockets were served atop a butter sauce, accented with a drizzle of saba and finished with a sprinkling of poppy seeds. The Casonsei were minimally filled with the golden beets and cheese purée which offered a touch of sweetness from the beets and a slight tanginess from the cheese. The saba delivered a delightful sweetness and the poppy seeds were an excellent addition to add earthiness and a little crunch.

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The next course was Ricotta Ravioli topped with peas, a mint and pea purée and a few shreds of pickled ramps. The mint and pea purée was fantastic with the peas served al dente to add a little textural difference. The pickled ramps were a great addition and added a different twist with its pungent notes to complement the earthiness of the peas and the mint. These three ingredients created a perfect balance to this dish.

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The fourth and first non-vegetarian pasta was a Fusilli Bianco & Nero. A traditional fusilli was paired with a squid ink fusilli. The twin pastas were swathed with a smoked tomato sauce and served with chunks of sausage, shrimp, smoked tomato and “pickled hots.” This playful “surf and turf” interpretation featured various competing components. The sausage, tomato and pasta were wonderful and the addition of the pickled hots added a great layer of spiciness. The squid ink with the shrimp and pickled hots was a different flavor profile, combining the mildness of the shrimp with the spiciness of the peppers. In the end, I really enjoyed the sausage and pepper combination and would order that as a separate and delicious savory pasta.

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Chef Pat saved the best for last and when I say best, the fifth pasta was one the best entrées I have eaten in quite some time. The presentation began with a delightfully soft ricotta Gnocchi, which was served with chunks of lobster, morel mushrooms, with a black truffle butter sauce and finished with a smattering of black truffle pieces. The gnocchi were the perfect canvas for the decadent combination of the rich lobster, truffles and morels. The holey texture of the mushrooms captured the sauce with each bite and the lobster added a mild sweetness. The entire dish was elevated with the addition of the black truffles, which added a rich and fragrant earthiness. This was a brilliant execution in every aspects.

Overall, the five pastas that Chef Pat prepared were fantastic. From the simplistic tomato and basil to the highly complex gnocchi with morels and lobster, each showcased a balanced approach to pasta with creative and delicious combinations. I hope each will be available separately to Bar Sugo guests so more people can enjoy some of the best pasta in the area.

#pasta #barsugo #patpascarella #norwalk

Rincon (Norwalk) – Visit #2 Also Outstanding

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A little over a year ago I visited Rincon and enjoyed a trio of tacos that opened my eyes to a new level of Mexican street food. Over the last fourteen months I have told numerous people about Rincon…they serve the best tacos in the area. Last week another blogger suggested we meet for a few tacos and I jumped at the opportunity.

Located on Route 1 (heading east/north) in Norwalk in the same building as a catering hall, across from Kohl’s, there is plenty of parking in a lot just beyond the building. When I entered Rincon slightly before noon they were busy filling to-go orders…trays and tray of tacos were being prepared and the mega-burritos were in process, others were about to enjoy these culinary treats.

I ordered two tacos and two empanadas.

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I started with the fish taco. After adding a squirt from the slice of lime I carefully rolled the double-tortilla in hopes of keeping the heaping portion contained within. The fish was perfectly fried, just a light coating and was joined in the tortilla with red onion and cilantro that delivered citrusy back-notes. It was bright, sweet and vibrant. The fish taco was fantastic. The pork taco was a totally different profile. After the brightness of the fish taco I was bolted back to the more traditional taco with spiciness and cilantro. The large serving of pulled pork was incredibly moist and flavorful and then the toppings added a great kick to the pork. There was a sprinkling of cheese on top that added a little saltiness and softened the spice. While totally different, both were as great as I remembered.

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I next moved to the empanadas. Two large empanadas filled the plate, these were not two-bites and you are finished; like the other items on the menu, Rincon serves a real serving. I started with the beef. The crust was flaky, buttery and perfectly prepared. And the filling was incredible. The meat was moist with great flavors and a hint of spiciness. Then I moved onto the chicken and, like the beef, delivered incredible flavors and textures. I stated on numerous occasions that the tacos were the best I ever tasted…the empanadas might be better.

I learned a lesson today. When you find a go-to restaurant, go to it. If they make one dish incredibly well, there is a strong possibility the rest of the menu might also be outstanding. In the case of Rincon, the tacos are fantastic and the empanadas set a new standard and are definitely worth a trip.

A “Bourbon” Dinner @ Oak + Almond (Norwalk)

ctb_7I was invited to Oak + Almond in Norwalk for its Four Roses Bourbon dinner to sample some of Chef Joseph Italiano’s creative cuisine paired with one of the country’s best bourbons. Working alongside Chef Italiano for this special event was Chef Chris Vacca, who our readers know from serving one of the best burgers in Fairfield County from his food truck, Bounty. Chef Italiano has been at the helm for several months after stints at Bistro B in Westport and Bridgeport and with Chef Pat Pascarella at Bar Sugo.

©jeff “jfood” schlesingerWe began the evening with a wood oven roasted Hudson Valley quail with speck, wild mushrooms, and stewed chickpeas, paired with an Old-Fashioned. The de-boned whole quail was stuffed with a variety of sliced wild mushrooms. The bird sat atop the chickpeas and stewed tomatoes. The quail was juicy and delivered a mild flavor, not gamey. The mushrooms were wonderful, very meaty and earthy and the chickpeas and tomatoes were an interesting addition. The dish offered a variety of flavors and textures but was a little under-seasoned.

ctb_3The second course consisted of whole wheat fettuccine topped with braised rabbit Sugo, chestnuts, grainy mustard, and topped with Pecorino Romano cheese…served with the Oak + Almond cocktail. The pasta was perfectly cooked to al dente, with a great earthy quality. The rabbit was delicious and soft with great flavor. The mustard added a back-note of spice, while the chestnuts complemented the other ingredients with both textural difference and a sweetness. Like the quail, the dish would have benefited from additional seasoning.

ctb_4The entrée included slices of rotisserie wild boar shoulder served with duck fat potatoes, Cipollini onions over a bed of roasted peppers and topped with crispy sunchoke chips. The dish was enhanced with agro dolce and served alongside a glass of Woodsman. The meat was beautifully prepared to medium rare, offered deep flavor and was delicious. The accompaniments were outstanding with the sweet-sour balance of the Cipollini onions and peppers. This dish was perfectly seasoned and exceptional.

ctb_5We completed the meal with a slice of local honey pecan pie with bourbon rosemary ice cream paired with Single Barrel bourbon, a double gold winner at 2014 Denver International Spirits Competition. The pie was spectacular, one of the best pecan pies I have ever tasted. It started with a rich, buttery crust and the filling was sweet, creamy and wonderful. And the pecans were outstanding, delivering both a crunchiness and a wonderful flavor…everything was impeccable. The ice cream added both a creaminess and an offsetting profile with the bourbon and rosemary.

Overall, the evening was filled with great conversation and food. I loved the wild boar and pecan pie. As a bourbon neophyte I was fascinated by the versatility of the spirit. From the intensity of the Single Barrel that was served with the dessert to the Oak + Almond, which reminded me of a Margarita, I was impressed by each round of the drinks. With spring on the horizon, the inviting deck at Oak + Almond is almost ready for guests to enjoy Chef Italiano’s wood oven cuisine.

544 Main Ave – Norwalk, CT – 203.846.4600

Really Liked

  • Wild Boar
  • Pecan Pie

Liked

  • Stuffed Quail
  • Fettuccine with Rabbit Sugo

Washington Prime (SONO) 2.0 – Enter Chef Howard McCall Jr.

rsz_ctb (2)Patrons of Washington Prime will find comfort in the cuisine of its new Executive Chef Howard McCall Jr. This unassuming chef is not new to SoNo or the kitchen at Washington Prime; he started in the kitchen at Barcelona twenty years ago and was the opening Sous Chef at Washington Prime last summer. Prior to joining Washington Prime he oversaw the kitchen at Mint restaurant in North Carolina, which influenced his new Southern style cuisine.

CTbites was invited to meet the chef and sample some of his new additions to the menu. Chef Howard exudes a soft personality, allowing his culinary talents to speak. His recent changes to the new menu range from a creative American Soul Rolls to a Braised Lamb Shank, plus modifications of previous favorites. Each maintained the focus on the main ingredient with delightful accompaniments…more akin to Southern comfort food.

Three of the Small Plates were delicious.

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The first was the Short Rib. A large, single, boneless rib sat atop a dollop of the braising liquid and the chipotle onion jam, then crowned with two onion rings and finished with micro greens. The slowly braised rib was tender and succulent; and when paired with the spicy onions created a spicy-earthy combination. The onions were soft, but be prepared for a little spiciness from the onion jam, while the sauce was a wonderful and rich offset to the spicy onions. The onion rings were perfectly fried with a crispy exterior while retaining an al dente interior.

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Chef Howard took great care in allowing the rich flavors of the prime beef to stand out in the Steak Tartare. The dish included diced prime beef mixed with finely diced shallots, parsley and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. It was served in a swath of truffle vinaigrette, accompanied by a quail egg. The scant inclusion of the shallots was perfect and when combined with the truffle vinaigrette was outstanding. Make a divot in the beef and add the quail egg and combine to create an even richer experience. A sprinkling of Parmesan cheese added a touch of saltiness. This is one of the most delicious tartares in Fairfield County.

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Not to be outdone by the tartare, the Mac + Cheese is the creamiest I have tasted in quite some time. Chef Howard chose orecchiette to deliver his four cheese (White Cheddar, Yellow Cheddar, Asiago and American) mixture in each bite. This simple combination created a beautifully balanced taste. The texture was velvety and then the crunchy bacon-breadcrumbs kicked in. The pasta was cooked to a perfect al dente. There were additional bacon bits within the dish. This may be the standard for other Mac + Cheeses in the area.

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The last Small Plate I sampled was the American Soul Rolls that combined sausage, broccoli rabe, mashed potatoes served a la egg roll, with a spicy tomato-veal demi-glace dipping sauce. The potatoes were soft and creamy and were complemented by the crispy egg roll skins and a tomato dipping sauce worked well with a crispy potato combination. The spiciness of the sausage was balanced by the smoothness of the potatoes. I could probably enjoy the Soul Rolls accompanied by a beer at the bar but thought there were too many elements competing in the dish.

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I also sampled two of the large plates and really enjoyed the Braised Lamb Shank. It was served nestled in polenta, crispy Brussels sprouts and topped with rich gravy and a few onion rings. The large shank was perfectly braised to maximize its tenderness and the Brussels sprouts were fantastic, crispy and sweet. The polenta was creamy and mild…a great canvas for the all of the rich flavors of the dish. And lastly, a few perfectly fried onion rings perched on top to accompany an already great presentation.

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The SONO Fried Chicken was an enormous half chicken served with its traditional accompaniments, mashed potato and gravy, plus braised greens. I started with the sides…they were fantastic. The potatoes were creamy, lightly seasoned and the gravy was excellent. The braised greens were outstanding with a sweet syrup and bacon. The two enormous pieces of chicken were disappointing. The ultra-crispy fell off the chicken and cutting the chicken was incredibly difficult. The texture of both the breast and the thigh was too firm for my taste and the entire chicken was under-seasoned.  As much as I loved the sides, the chicken was not to my liking.

Chef Howard’s cuisine is Southern comfort with a modern twist. He has a delicate touch that allows the main ingredient to maintain the focus of the dish with accompaniments that enhance the flavors. I look forward to returning to Washington Prime and enjoy many more of Chef Howard’s new creations on the menu.

Really Liked
– Short Rib
– Steak Tartare
– Mac + Cheese
– Braised Lamb Shank
– Mashed Potato and Gravy, Braised Greens (in SONO Fried Chicken)

Did Not Like
– American Soul Rolls
– SONO Fried Chicken

The Spread (SONO) Burger – Great Spicy Rendition

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In the midst of a 10-course dinner with friends at Spread I ordered the “Cheeseburger.” I’ve enjoyed Executive Chef Carlos Baez’s version in the past and wanted to see if there was any update to his interpretation to one of my favorite dishes.

Chef Carlos starts his rendition with an 8-ounce patty of grass fed Kobe beef. He tops the patty with pickles, melted Cheddar cheese with the option of bacon or Jalapeño peppers, with a swath of spicy mayo encased in a sesame seed bun. Since spicy mayo was already included I asked for the bacon but not the peppers.

The meat was outstanding. It was cooked perfectly to my requested medium-rare, and the kitchen was delicate when they formed the patty, it maintained a wonderful loose grind. The flavor was deep and rich from the grass feeding and was juicy, but not overwhelming. The bread and butter pickles added a great sour component and the bacon was perfectly cooked and a smoky-salty balance. The spicy mayo was a little too spicy for me, detracting from the other great flavors, but that is a personal preference. The bun added a nice buttery complement. The fries were excellent, fresh, hand cut with just a touch of salt.

Chef Carlos is hitting it out of the park with his cuisine and the burger was just one great example.

The Spread on Urbanspoon

Heyday (MSP) – Some Great Dishes

A colleague of mine was in town and we decided to visit Heyday. This was my second visit and once again it was a fantastic evening filled with great food and excellent service. Similar to my first visit, there were several spectacular presentations and a couple that fell flat.

The service from start to finish was perfect. It was early on a Monday evening and before we decided on the courses, we were engaged with the server, not only on Heyday’s menu, but other restaurants. She was full of knowledge, offered suggestions, was incredibly friendly and over the course of the meal was spot on in every aspect of the meal.

We decided to split a few dishes. For the “I” course we ordered the Chicken Liver Tart that is served with toasted shallot, onion jam, and pickled vegetables. When it arrived the server also brought a portion of the Chilled Blue Mussels since she recommended it and thought we would really like to try it. The Tart was one of the best renditions I have eaten. The mousse was deep in flavor and paired perfectly with the pickled vegetables and the buttery crust. The mussels were served under a “dome” of frozen yogurt, with pickled cucumber, and dill, and unfortunately I disagree with the server. I did not like this dish. The scant four mussels were the epitome of a needle in a haystack in this over-constructed presentation. The tanginess of the yogurt plus the frozen gel overwhelmed the mussels.

In “II” we ordered the Poached Bone-in Skate with black truffle, salsify, and hazelnut and Rabbit Royale grilled leg, ham, carrots. The skate was over the top fantastic, moist, flavorful and worked great with the various textures and flavors of all of the toppings. It is served “bone-in” and takes no effort in removing the meat, just scrape along the bone; it is well worth the minimal effort. The rabbit was not as expected, but was very good. The “leg” was actually the meat from the leg that was removed and re-constituted into two small cylinders; one was encased in smoked meat. The flavor was deep and rich, and worked well with the accompaniments.

The “III” selection brought two outstanding dishes to the table. The Duck Breast is served with endive, pumpkin, and granola and consisted of two small sections of meat. They were very different in texture. One of the pieces was incredibly chewy and tough and the other was delightfully tender. They were both perfectly cooked to maintain a deep richness and the accompanying vegetables and textures were wonderful. The hit of the evening was the Spiced Braised Lamb, served with almond-potato puree, and a grilled green onion. It is spiced, not spicy, and the lamb was fantastic, great flavor, moist, tender and the almond-potato puree was a perfect complement. The single green onion delivered a mild pickled flavor and a wonderful crunchiness.

How can you resist a dessert called “Fifty Shades of Hay”? This is as close as I will get to either the book or the movie. It was 50 shades of disappointment. A scoop of ice cream that included soaking hay in the cream (yes there is a bale of hay in the basement) is served with meringue, frozen grapefruit and an array of crumbled items. The dark colored meringue was the best part. If you take a spoonful of the various items along with a little scoop of the ice cream it is not bad, but this is an overly complex textural dessert versus a flavorful dessert. It indicates the kitchen is versed in various techniques, but it fell flat as a great ending to a great meal.

Sometimes the technique is justified when the end product is exceptional. For many dishes it worked perfectly, but for others it did not. I cannot wait to return to Heyday and sample some of the chefs’ other creative cuisine.

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A Great Meal at Gemma (Dallas)

A couple of colleagues in Dallas recommended Gemma as a new, hot restaurant serving great cuisine. On my recent trip, the three of us grabbed a reservation and headed to 2323 North Henderson to see if the food equaled the hype. The restaurant is located in a strip mall in a gentrifying neighborhood, but when you enter the single dining room with a long bar along the left wall, the interior is warm and light, filled with blues, whites and chandeliers dangling by nautical ropes from the ceiling, you are transported to a more relaxed environment.

The server was outstanding from our first interaction until we left over two hours later. He gave a brief overview of the philosophy with all food sourced as local as possible and if not available, California. The owners, Allison Yoder and Stephen Rogers returned to Rogers’ home town of Dallas from the Napa Valley where Rogers was the Executive Chef at PRESS. He now oversees Gemma’s kitchen, while Yoder handles the front of the house. And if our experience is any indication, both are doing a fantastic job.

IMG_0161As a small group of foodies, we wanted to taste as many items as possible so we decided to order three appetizers to share. The first was the ROASTED BABY ARTICHOKES, which were topped with a poached farm egg, a Provençal vinaigrette and accompanied by wild arugula. The artichoke sections were soft, sweet with just a touch of earthiness from the roast, while the poached egg brought a creaminess to the presentation. The highlight was the chef’s variation of a traditional Provençal vinaigrette…he included capers for additional tang and saltiness. The wild arugula added a peppery component.

IMG_0159The CRISPY VEAL SWEETBREADS were served with frisée and encircled with whole grain mustard. Three large pieces were perfectly sautéed to deliver the described crispy exterior and the dense texture of the interior. The mustard was a delightful complement to the sweetbreads and the frisée lightened the dish with a clean crispiness.

IMG_0160The third appetizer was a half-order of the RICOTTA CAVATELLI. The restaurant recently changed the meat from wild boar to braised lamb. The house-made cavatelli was cooked to al dente and when paired with the richness of the meat was fantastic, and included a bit of grated cheese atop the pasta that added just a bit of saltiness.

IMG_0162For my entrée I ordered the BRAISED VEAL CHEEKS. Accompanying the cheeks in the cast iron skillet were Tokyo turnips, baby carrots, Cipollini onions, bacon, black pepper spätzle. This dish was outstanding. The cheeks were braised until they just held together, incredibly tender and rich, while the texture was soft and succulent. The cheeks were accompanied by amazing vegetables…my favorite were the Cipollini onions, with a pungency sweetness that complemented the beef. The carrots and turnips both added more crunch and additional sweetness. All of these ingredients sat atop crispy spätzle, which was light and delicious. I was not a fan of the bacon, its saltiness and smokiness were overwhelming harsh to the other ingredients.

We ordered two sides to share. The first was the MAITAKE MUSHROOM that were seasoned with shallot, garlic, and thyme. These were not your ordinary sautéed mushrooms. Several stems of these soft and mild maitake mushrooms danced on the palate, offering just a touch of earthiness. On the other hand the KENNEBEC FRENCH FRIES were ordinary and somewhat disappointing. They were basic French fries.

The kitchen was not finished with tantalizing our palates. Desserts brought another round of brilliant dishes. My favorite was the APPLE TART with toasted pecan butter, apple cider caramel, and a little butter pecan ice cream. The tart began with an ultra-buttery dough, filled with perfectly baked apples and then the caramel and ice cream added a wonderful level of sweetness. Close behind the tart was a delicious BASQUE CAKE, which was served with Meyer lemon cream, and a frozen citrus soufflé. The citrusy combinations started with the moist and luscious cake and finished with the cream and soufflé. The last dessert was the CHOCOLATE CARAMEL PINENUT TART, served with toasted marshmallows and a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. This dish suffered from sitting next to the other impeccable desserts. There were too many components that fought with each other and did not present a harmonious combination.

Overall, Gemma is serving outstanding and creative cuisine in a warm and inviting setting. This is definitely worth a return visit.